






Gass 

Book 


COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 


\ 















THE 


STEWARD'S HANDBOOK 

AND 

Guide to party Catering. 


IN FIVE PARTS. 


Part i.— PIOTEL STEWARDING and Composition 

of Biles of Fare. 

Part 2.— RESTAURANT STEWARDING and Public 

Party Catering. 

Part 3.— CATERING FOR PRIVATE PARTIES, and 

Head Waiters and their Troops. 


Part 4.— A DICTIONARY OF DISHES and Culinary 

Terms and Specialties. 


Part 5.— HOW TO FOLD NAPKINS. 




BY 

JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 



CHICAGO. 

1SS9. 


\ 




} • 

















I 


.Entered according- to Act of Congress in the Office of the LibYarian, at Washington, by 
Jessup Whitehead, 1SS7 and 1SS9.—All rights reserved. 














CHICAG-O, ILL. 

John Anderson & Co., Printers, 1S3-1S7 N. Peoria St. 

1# 0 

* * * # v 

/ « 

* 





PREFACE. 


In the preparation of this volume my aim has been to supply just such a 
book as I wished for myself when I was a beginner in hotel employment and 
t>aw how much there was before me to learn before I could reach the paying 
positions. It has fallen to my lot to be the first to write down what have hitherto 
been the unwritten rules of hotel management; as the hotel system of this coun¬ 
try is advancing and expanding, I have looked upwards and not downwards for 
my examples; and I beg the reader, who may find some things contrary to his 
preconceived notions of hotel interiors, to note that I have not made the mistake 
of imagining that I had to invent a code or system, but have only had to state the 
facts as they exist already; the expressions of opinion or advocacy of special rules 
are but the links to make the whole plan coherent, where otherwise it would be 
broken by the difference in practice of different hotel-keepers. It is due to those 
who will disagree with me on some points to admit that my friends, the editors, 
who have published some of the matter serially, found some statements so op¬ 
posed to their previous ideas they even hesitated to print them; the doctrine 
which they seemed to think most monstrous is that laid down in “ The Steward 
and His Management of Help,” beginning at the bottom of page 23. Perhaps 
they read it hastily or misconstrued it. Though not too dogmatical to review my 
own work and reconsider it, I have not, after a year’s interval, found a word to 
change, and have in the same time passed through experiences with two hotel 
keepers which showed that they, at least, did not misunderstand, and the rule is 
sound, always premising that the incoming man is a real steward and is com¬ 
petent. It is a formal investment of the steward with his authority that is advo¬ 
cated, the old and efficient hands do not really leave, they are trained to the sys¬ 
tem and bow and accept the new dictator. The “clean sweep” business is 
named in connection with corruption and misdoing. Let us suppose a case—or 
call it reality if you will: A man is sent for by a hotel proprietor to be steward, 
and the proprietor says: “My help all seem to be unmanageable; they are in¬ 
subordinate, noisy, quarrelsome, independent, insolent; I want you to change all 
this; it is injuring my business.” The new steward finds a too-good barkeeper, a 
pet of the proprietor, too, is giving the hands whisky, and this ill-advised liberal¬ 
ity with his employer’s property is making the barkeeper the most popular man 
in the house, but is keeping the hands half drunk and unmanageable. All the 
power the steward has over the barkeeper is to notify him not to treat his hands 
any more, but that does not help much, for his hands are then sulky and sullen, 



[i 


PREFACE. 


his bitter enemies. That is the time for a ‘'clean sweep,” or else the steward must 
back down and leave. In another place it may be a colored girl, my lady’s pam¬ 
pered and bejewelled maid, who is the power behind the throne; who orders the 
cooks and sends the waiters away on errands, and the new steward finds that 
when he gives his directions the help all look to the pet maid to see whether they 
are to obev him or not. If the decaying proprietor of such a declining business 
as this symbolizes wants reform there must be a “clean sweep,” not necessarily of 
t .he maid, too, but new hands must come in who have not learned to look that 
way for orders. 

In short, I have entertained the idea of writing this book for years past, and 
made observations accordingly so extensive and thorough as to be able to claim a 
full preparation for the task before it was undertaken. The interior of a large 
hotel is not a place of pleasure for the employes. All the heads of departments 
are autocrats in their sphere if they are good men; if they are bad men they may 
be tyrants. 

In regard to the dictionary, which will commend itself at a glance, it only 
needs to be said that in the anticipation that it will find a welcome not only among 
hotel stewards and chefs, but among diners-out, bons-vivants, club men, restaura¬ 
teurs, printers wh ) set up bills of fare, editors with gastronomical proclivities, and 
the polite world in general, I have made it as light reading as was practicable, by 
embodying the brightest and best paragraphs on every subject in turn by the best 
writers wherever they could be found. This is the dictionary of that peculiar 
culinary language, which is not to be found in the regular dictionaries of any 
tongue, however complete otherwise; it is the language of epicurism and of the 
table. 

Possibly the practice which has prevailed for some time of interpolating 
poetical quotations in the bill of fare might be improved by the introduction of 
informatory paragraphs about some special kind of game, fish, or novelty in sweets, 
turning the attention of those who dine upon one leading feature of the dinner by 
giving an intimation of its quality, its rarity, its merits, its relation to literature, its 
origin. Suitable quotations of that kind will be found abundant in this volume. 
They might be accredited to “The Epicurean Dictionary,” which will be fair and 
impartial to all, for it has been found neither expedient nor even possible to name 
the authors whose words are placed in quotation marks herein ; some of them, it is 
true, belong to the most famous names, but the greater part are the words of un¬ 
known contributors to current literature whose terse sentences offered the briefest 
explanation of the subjects named. 


J. W. 





CONTENTS 


IF-A-IELT T. 

THE HOTEL STEWARD AND HIS DUTIES.—The Steward Out of Fash¬ 
ion—A New Class of Stewards.—Stewards of Other Days.—“The Evil Which 
Men Do Lives After Them.”—The Pernicious Commission System.—Some¬ 
thing Less Manly —A Specimen Letter.—The Steward the Superior Officer. 
—The Steward Deals Only With the Head Men.—The Steward as Buyer.— 
The Steward Puts In His Fancy Work.—All Stewards Carve.—Assistant 
Carvers.—The Steward and the Bill of Fare.—The Steward Who Does Not 
Know.—The Steward Is the Overseer First and Last.—The Steward as a 
Worker.—The Steward Manages the Meats.—Stewards Needed Everywhere. 
•—The Steward and the Landlady.—The Steward and the Housekeeper.—The 
Steward and the Head waiter.—The Steward and His Adversaries.—The 
Steward and the Storekeeper.—The Steward and His Store-room.—The 
Steward and the Care of Meats.—The Steward and His Management of 
Help.—-The Steward and the Hands’ Pay-Day.—The Steward and the Clerks. 
—The Steward and the Proprietor.—The Inside Steward’s Special Duties.— 
The Wine-room Steward’s Special Duties.—The Steward and the Dairy.— 
The Steward and the Dish-room.—The Steward and His Workshops.—When 
the Steward’s Good Time Comes.—Who Shall Be Stewards?—Promote the 
Good Cooks.Pages 3 to 30. 

STOREKEEPING AND BOOK-KEEPING.—How Stores Are Issued and 
Charged.—Blank Requisitions.—The Storekeeper Must Rise Early.—Store¬ 
room Hours.—The Store-room Issue Book.—Example of Written Book (pages 
34-35)—Mammoth Requisition List Showing All Articles Needed In Hotels 
(page 36).—Pastry Requ’sition of Same House (page 37).—Largest Form of 
Issue Book and Grand Total of All Departments (pages 38-39)—The Same 
bv a Simpler System (pages 40-41). Changing Cooks in a Large Hotel.— 
How the New Chef Begins His Duties .—'1 he Drinking Habits of Cooks_ 
.Pages 30 to 45. 

HOW TO WRITE THE BILL OF FARE.—The American Hotel Dinner Bill 
the Standard.—The Hotel Press and Recent Improvements.—Bill of Fare or 
Menu?—Headings or No Headings?—What Should the Headings Be?—Serv¬ 
ing Potatoes With Fish.—Always Serve Fish On Small Plates.—Which First, 
Joints or Entrees?—Three Royal Examples.—The Place for the Cold Meats. 
—Current Criticisms.—A Representative Italian Bill of Fare.—The Dinner 
In Courses.—The Sorbet or Punch.—Those Everlasting Relishes.—Specimen 
Bill of Fare.—How Many Dishes?—One Soup or Two?—How Many Kinds of 
Fish?—How Many Entrees?—How Many Vegetables?—How Many Kinds of 
Pastry?—Conclusions In Regard To the Dinner Bill.—Lunch and Dinner or 
Dinner and Supper?—How Much for Lunch?—What Sort of Dishes for 

Lunch?—The Breakfast Bill of Fare.—Specimen Breakfast Bills.—About the 

(iii) 






\v 


CONTENTS. 


American Breakfast.—A Small Pattern, But Sufficient.—The American Sup¬ 
per or Tea.—Rising Equal to the Emergency.—Combination of Dinner and 
Supper With Newly Printed Bills Each Day.—List of Dishes for Breakfast 
and Supper Bills.Pages 45 to 76. 

xx. 

RESTAURANT STEWARDING.—Comparison of the Hotel and Restaurant Sys¬ 
tems.—The Rise of the Restaurant.—A Typical American Restaurateur.—The 
Restaurant Steward and the Market Men.—How to “Stand In” with the Market 
Men.—Keeping Provisions.—A Specimen First-class Restaurant Bill of Fare. 
—A Few Entrees and a Little Management.—The Merchants’ Lunch House 
and Bill of Fare.—The Bakery Lunch.—The Place and not the Man.—The 
Man and not the Place.—The Bar-room Free Lunch.—A Russian Restaurant. 
—The Oyster and Fish Restaurant and Bill of Fare.—How the Pay is Col¬ 
lected.—The Common Meal Check.—The Written Order Check.—Ihe Hidden 
Watch System.—The Great American Restaurant System.—The Bouillons- 
Duval System.—Spiers and Pond’s London Restaurant System, pages 76 to 100. 


The London Check System.Page 202. 

American Hotel Check System.Page 203. 


CLUB STEWARDING AND CATERING.—About Clubs in General.—Party 
Catering.—Mistakes in Entertaining.—Rules for Party Catering.—Some Ex¬ 
ceptions.—Ball Suppers.—How to Set the Tables.—Small Tables.—What to 
Set Upon Them.—Difference in Cost of Suppers.—Quantities and Qualities.— 
What Decorated Meat Dishes Consist Of.—What the Ornamental Baskets of 
Cake Contain.—What the Moulded Ices and Jellies Are.—Setting Long 
Tables.—When They Dance in the Dining Room.—The Stand-up Supper.— 
The Bazar Supper.—The Handed Supper.—The Ornamental Handed Supper. 
...Pages 100 to 117. 

xxx. 

CATERING FOR PRIVATE PARTIES.—Large and Small Catering Busi¬ 
nesses.—Lady Caterers.—More Rules for Stewards and Caterers.—Ball Supper 
for 200.—Provisions and Materials Used.—A Young Lady’s Birthday Recep¬ 
tion for 50.—Snow-bound Dinner.—Church Festival.—Club Reception.—Cold 
Lunch for 300.—Private Reception.—Experience of an English Manager.— 
Dinners at Various Prices.—Base Ball or Cricket Lunches, Various Prices.— 
A Quotation Menu.Pages 125 to 135. 

FANTASIES OF PARTY GIVERS.—A Pink Dinner in Washington.—A 
Yellow Dinner in Boston.—A White Dinner in London.—A Violet Supper.— 
A Dinner in Scarlet and Black.—A Pink Rose Dinner.—A White Lilv Din¬ 
ner.—A Mermaid Dinner.—Crowns, Stars and Diamonds.—The Plateau.— 
Changing Fashions in Wine Glasses.—A Figurative Dinner.—A Vari-colored 
Dinner in Buffalo.—A Tropical Dinner in New York.—Fish Dinners in Paris. 
—French Dinner Table Decorations.—Imitating Lucullus.—Royal Soup.— 
The Same Idea With a Purpose In It.—Floral Decorations at President Ar¬ 
thur’s State Dinners.—President Cleveland’s Table.—Floral Decorations at the 
Princess’ Ball.—Tens of Thousands of Flowers.—Decorated Dishes at Mrs. 
Vanderbilt’s Reception.—Mrs. Vanderbilt’s Diamond Ball.—The Progressive 
Dinner Novelty.—The Ladv Had a New Idea.—Couldn’t “Call Off” the En¬ 
trees.—Notions In Silver.—The Vienna Coffee Fashion.—Different China for 








CONTENTS. 


v 


Each Course.—Candles and Glass Shades.—Notions in Ices.—Changing Dec¬ 
orations for Each Meal.—A Boating Club’s Fantasy.—Scene Painted Ball 
Suppers.—Sea Caverns and Fairy Grottoes.—A Sea Shell Dinner.—A Wed¬ 
ding Banquet.—Grand Wedding Receptions.—Wedding Breakfasts and the 
Prices Charged.—Eight Specimen Menus.—Something About the Cost.—Ten 
Dollars per Plate.—Five Dollars per Plate Without Wine.—Six Dollars With 
'Wine at the Cafe Royal.—Two Dollars Without Wine.—A Ten-dollar Meal 
for Five Dollars.— Dinners at Thirty Dollars.—Temperance Catering.—Tipsy 
Fruit at a Temperance Banquet.—Prohibitionists and Fashionable Cookery.— 
Too Rich for His Blood.—Sarcastic, But Suggestive.Pages 135 to 157 

STEWARDING AND CATERING ON A GRAND SCALE.—Stewarding at 
Harvard University.—At Vassar College.—At Windsor Castle.—At a Peni¬ 
tentiary.— Steamship Stewarding.— Purchasing for a Large Hotel.— The 
American Game List.—Lunch for 5,600 people.—The American Clam Bake. 
—How It Is Done.—The American Barbecue.—The Improved Barbecue.— 
The Primitive Barbecue.—An Electric Lighted Barbecue.—How an Ox Was 
Boiled Whole.—The Number, Weights and Price for 3,000.—The French 
Governmental Banquet to 3,000 Mayors.—A Railway Eating House in Sweden. 
—Breakfast for 10,500 people.—Catering at the Manchester Exhibition.—How 
30,000 Children Were Fed.—Catering for the Multitude.—Stewarding for the 
Sultan.—The Army Hospital Steward.—Exposition Catering.—Catering at 
the Piedmont Exposition.—Training a Storekeeper.—The Store-room Stock 
Book.Pages 157 to 184. 

THE HE AD WAITER AND HIS TROOPS.—The Headwaiter.—The Head- 
waiter’s Importance.—The Headwaiter Does No Waiting.—Scarcity of Good 
Head waiters.—The Foreign Headwaiter.—In American Hotels.—Organizing 
the Troops.—Waiter’s Uniforms.—Telling Off the Watches.—Watch On, 
Watch Off.—Let the Headwaiters Tell It.—Another Headwaiter Talks.— 
What the Dining Room Chief Talks About.—Waiters Drill for a Banquet.— 
Who Are the Best Waiters?—Waiters’ Wages and Tips.—Cherubs at the 
Hotels.—Rough on the Waiters.—London Waitei*s.—Paris Waiters. —Disci¬ 
pline in Paris Restaurants.—Accommodating Waiters.—Tricky Waiters.— 
Berlin Waiters.—A German Baron Waiter.—How Waiters Fight Duels.— 
Female Waiters.—New York Waiter Girls.—A Dining Room Juno.—The 
Pennsylvania-Dutch Waitress.—The Mischief of Pretty Waiter Girls.—Girls 
•on a Strike.—Another Strike of Waitresses.—Respect Instead of Money.— 
Colored Waiters.—Troubles Common to All.—The Tyranny of the Chef. — 
Another Trouble.—A Few Types of Waiters.—Just a Plain Waiter.—A Wal¬ 
ter’s Valentine.—A Waiter’s Wife.—A Treasure of a Waiter.—Waiters’ Christ¬ 
mas.Pages 184 to 218. 

iv. 

IN THE DICTIONARY OF DISHES will be found under the respective 
letters— Consommes.—Drinks.—Egg Cookery.—German Cookery.—Greek 
Cookery.—Ices.—Italian Cookery.—Jewish Cookery.—Mexican Cookery.— 
Oriental Cookery.—Potages.—Sauces.—Soups.—Spanish Cookery.—Scottish 
Cookery, Etc., Etc.Pages 219 to 464. 

IP-A-IRT V. 

SERVIETTES AND HOW TO FOLD THEM, fully illustrated, Appendix, 
.Pages 1 to 29. 






















O' 1 







s 



























THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ZEPA-IR/T FIEST. 


HOTEL STEWARDING 

SHOWING THE INTERNAL WORKINGS OF THE AMERICAN 

SYSTEM OF HOTEL KEEPING. 


THE STEWARD’S DUTIES 

IN DETAIL AND IN RELATION TO OTHER HEADS 
OF DEPARTMENTS. 

Steward’s Storekeeping, Steward’s Bookkeeping, 

AND MANAGEMENT OF HELP. 


ALSO, 

Composition of Bills of Fare, 

THE REASONS WHY, AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIVE MENUS 
OF MEALS ON THE AMERICAN PLAN 


BY 

JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 


CHICAGO. 

1889. 









THE HOTEL STEWARD AND HIS DUTIES 


The steward is out of fashion just at 
present, although there are indications 
that the time is coming around again 
when he will take his proper place in the 
hotel economy, a place second in import¬ 
ance only to that of the proprietor. He 
has been dropping out of fashion more 
and more every year for a long period, 
while the chef gained the ascendancy, till 
now the steward and his position are al¬ 
most forgotten. It used to be sufficient to 
say that Mr. So-and-so was the proprietor 
and Mr. Somebody was his steward, and 
that included everything, for the steward 
had his headwaiter, his cook, his pastry 
•cook. Some stewards of the few remaining 
write my cook, etc., yet, from the force of 
old habits, but really there are but few and 
they are but seldom heard of. There are 
plenty of indications to satisfy anyone that 
this is the case. There is no employd of 
any importance about a hotel or restaurant 
so seldom mentioned in print now as the 
steward, and if one of them does appear 
in print through his own writing, he gets 
but a nod like any stranger, and at once 
disappears. It is very rarely that any ad¬ 
vertisement appears of a steward wanted, 
and when occasionally a steward adver¬ 
tises for a situation it is half-heartedly, for 
most of such advertisements end with an 
offer to assist with somethirig else, as if it 
was scarcely expected that any hotel keeper 
could possibly want a steward, or as if a 
steward’s duties were not exacting enough 
to demand every minute of his time; some, 
who so advertise, have been stewards, they 
say, twenty years or more; that is, they are 
of the old stock of stewards, remainders 
from the stewards era, and cannot help 
offering themselves. But the young men 


who advertise numerously wants to be 
assistant managers, managers of small 
houses, caterers, occasionally, or store¬ 
keepers and assistant clerks, anything but 
steward, and letters of inquiry come to the 
hotel newspaper offices innocently asking 
what the steward’s duties are, almost by 
implication asking what stewards are for. 
About a year ago some newspaper man 
interviewed the proprietor of a large hotel 
in Washington and asked him about the 
methods of internal management, and 
asked: “How do you know how much to 
cook?” “I confer with my chef” answered 
the proprietor—and then we do thus and 
so, and the dialogue included many such 
questions. But where was the steward in 
that case? 

Another such indication comes to hand 
in a very late number of the Hotel World , 
after the foregoing had been written, and 
must be repeated for its worth and to help 
confirm the position taken, that the steward 
is out of fashion, and the chef is in the as¬ 
cendant: 

The chef of a large Saratoga hotel is re¬ 
ported as saying: “We receive word from 
the office every morning how many people 
there are in the house, and there are cer¬ 
tain well established rules for calculation. 
For instance, among a certain number of 
people so many will take roast beef, and 
we have found by experiment that ioo 
people require a side of beef weighing 
about forty pounds. Among the same ioo 
people forty or fifty chickens will be needed, 
according to the size of the chickens. We 
can calculate pretty closely, but we have 
to be liberal, so that if fifty or sixty people 
come in to dinner whom we did not expect, 
there will not be a scant supply. I make 




4 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


out the bill of fare for each day’s dinner on 
the afternoon of the previous day. I look 
over my stock, ask the steward what he 
expects to have in by the morning trains, 
and thus knowing the material I shall have 
to work with on the morrow, the bill of 
fare is made out.” 

The above is according to fact, but if 
everything in the hotel system were in its 
proper order it would have been the stew¬ 
ard who did the taking, conferred with the 
cook, instead of being questioned by the 
cook, and who would have suggested the 
bill of fare and revised it after the chef had 
written it. 

A year or two ago a young proprietor in 
sore trouble applied to the writer to assist 
him in finding a different variety of cooks 
from those he had met; he said he had 
tried ail sorts, the high-priced association 
cooks among the rest, and he stigmatized 
them all as a man will who is tormented. 
He wrote: “I want a cook who can com¬ 
pute the cost of his meals, who knows the 
difference between skillful work and com¬ 
mon extravagance, who will remain at his 
post until the meal is over, and be as will¬ 
ing to earn his wages as I am to pay them.’’ 
This young proprietor has come into the 
business while stewards are out of fashion, 
and it never occurred to him that what he 
l-eally did want was a steward. There are 
no cooks who will do all that he sees should 
be done, none that have learned to compute 
the cost of meals, except with the coopera¬ 
tion of the steward and store-keeper; 
where there is no steward something is 
neglected to be done. Although this ne¬ 
cessary officer may be absent, his duties are 
there to be performed in every hotel, and 
are divided amongst several, and as these 
cannot do as well as a man trained to the 
special duties of the position, there must 
necessarily be irregularity, incompleteness 
and loss in the hotel system. 

A NEW CLASS OF STEWARDS. 

If there is to be a new beginning, if the 
steward is to catch up with his proper place 
in the line of hotel improvement, so that 


he will be found where he ought (o be in 
every hotel, and if it is become so that the 
steward will be engaged first and the cooks 
at any time afterwards, instead of the pres¬ 
ent general practice, there must be a model 
for young men to build upon. It is impos¬ 
sible now to give a satisfactory answer to 
the inquiries that are received as to what 
constitute a steward’s duties, for it is too 
indefinite a question. There are two dif¬ 
ferent sorts of stewards at present filling 
the positions where they are filled, and one 
of these types will endure and be the hotel 
steward of a few years later, and then his 
duties will be well defined. One of these 
is the New England steward, the other is 
the New York steward, which is the same 
as the ship steward and the Southern 
steamboat steward of years ago. Nothing 
invidiously sectional is meant by the adop¬ 
tion of these distinguishing terms. There 
are New England stewards in New York 
and stewards of the New England type; 
they are the men who go from the North 
every winter to take the same positions in 
the same Florida hotels year after year; 
not all of them are of New England birth, 
some are Canadians, or of more distant 
origin still; when by chance they have to 
advertise for a position they describe them¬ 
selves as working st 2 wards. And there 
are stewards of the nautical New York 
type in New England (for New York is 
but the rendezvous for steamship men and 
steamboat men), the bossing and buying' 
stewards, who are officers and used to dis¬ 
cipline, yet absolute in authority in their 
own department, and fine men in their own 
sphere; yet, somehow, they do not assimil¬ 
ate with the hotel system; neither do they 
who learn from them. Proprietors, after a 
trial, prefer to carry on their business with¬ 
out them, and the steward drops out of 
sight. The kind of man that is coming to 
the front is a bossing and buying and 
working steward, too. He knows what 
should be done, how it should be, and sees 
that it is so, and when there is any neces¬ 
sity whatever for him to do so he can taka 
hold and do it himself. 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


5 


A more efficient set of men, who yet do 
not suit the hotel system, cannot be imag¬ 
ined than the stewards of the ocean steam¬ 
ships and old-time, long-trip river steam¬ 
boats. They have entire charge; the pas¬ 
sengers must look to them for everything 
and not to the captain, who is but a court 
of appeal, a higher authority in reserve. 
When complaint is made to the captain he 
is very apt to say, “Sir or Madam, I have a 
steward who manages all those matters, he 
will arrange those things to your satisfac¬ 
tion, you had better speak to him.” If a 
polite commander, and desirous of pleas¬ 
ing the passengers, perhaps he will promise 
to see the steward about it himself; beyond 
that he does not interfere, and for good 
reason, for he has other cares and duties, 
those connected with the cargo and with 
navigation. These stewards are everything 
to the passengers; the head waiter is sec¬ 
ond steward; his next best man is third 
steward, and it is no wonder if all the wait¬ 
ers come to be called stewards in such a 
case, as they are on some steam vessels; 
and this practice has had such effect that 
anywhere south and southwest from 
Washington and Baltimore the native ho¬ 
tel proprietors call their head waiter their 
steward, and when they engage a steward 
they expect he is going to take charge of 
the dining room and waiters, if not wait on 
table himself. But these efficient steam¬ 
ship and steamboat stewards are not suited 
to even the modern hotel, because the pro¬ 
prietor must have something to do, not 
having any cares of cargo and navigation 
on his mind, and if such a steward excer- 
cises his full function he becomes the big 
man and the proprietor the little man of 
the house. There cannot be two kings 
over one small kingdom; one of them 
has to abdicate. The proprietor cannot and 
does not deny that the steward is right 
about his duties and prerogatives, but he 
does a quieter way, concludes that he does 
not need a steward; will perform part of 
the duties himself and puts the other part 
upon the cliej. 


STEWARDS OF OTHER DAYS. 

Those old-time Mississippi steamboat 
stewards were fine models of executive 
ability; they were remarkable men in their 
way, and are worth a passing description, 
for we shall never see their like again; the 
same state of their business will never exist 
again, for they were without the telegraph, 
practically without mail or express, since 
their boat carried the mail and they could 
hardly send word ahead, and the express 
reached only the railroad points which were 
limited then to the northern cities. They 
were models for the summer resort stew¬ 
ard whose hotel is off the regular lines of 
travel, in a difficult country, destitute of 
local markets and with slow and uncertain 
means of communication. Indeed those 
stewards were generally resort men them¬ 
selves, for the boating season was in winter 
and spring, and the best of them had sum¬ 
mer engagements at the various fashionable 
“ Springs ” to pass away the time when the 
rivers were low and the crops w r ere not 
ready to be moved. These stewards had 
entire charge and control of the victualling 
department and hiring of help and rate of 
wages to be paid. The captain held but one 
powerful restraint upon them; he and the 
chief clerk, who was the cashier and pay¬ 
master, kept up a rigid comparison of the 
bills for each month and for the same 
months of former years, and, in a general 
way, the steward who could run the boat 
with the smallest monthly bills was the 
man they wanted for that position. While 
this fear of running up a monthly expense 
account that the captain wouldn’t stand, 
was a great check upon the entire steward’s 
department, the men who were smart 
enough to be stewards were fertile in ex¬ 
pedients for dodging a direct comparison, 
and often made their dearest months seem 
the very contrary, either by collusion with 
the merchants or by special excuses plaus¬ 
ibly presented. The captain did not know 
the waiters nor whence they came, nor did 
he know the cooks, unless by chance he 
had one of some repute, but if this steward 
required twenty waiters and seven cooks 





6 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


and another could run the boat with fifteen 
waiters and five cooks, the cheaper man 
had the better chance of the position. 
These are the same checks and balances 
which hold good in the hotel of to-day, and 
everywhere, but there were other checks 
in the thorough first-class steward’s favor, 
for the captains were desirous of a good 
reputation for their craft and had rivals in 
the business, and the dearer man often had 
his day to be on top regardless of expense. 
Where the special ability of this class of 
men was best shown was in the provision¬ 
ing of the boat in advance, and so manag¬ 
ing that every succeeding day’s dinner 
would be better than the last, and the last 
dinner of the trip was complete with every 
luxury of the season, although it might be 
seven or eight days since they left the city 
and the markets, and there was always a 
degree of uncertainty as to how many pas¬ 
sengers might come on board at the various 
towns and landings of a ten or twelve or 
fifteen hundred mile trip. The boat’s crew 
of deck hands and firemen, amounting to 
anywhere from twenty to sixty or seventy 
men, were also provided for by the stew¬ 
ard, and calculations for them had to be 
made as well as for the cabin, just as the 
hotel steward has to provide separately for 
a large portion of “the help.” 

Going down stream they left orders at 
certain landings for the boat storemen to 
have so much milk, chickens, eggs, or such 
things, ready by a certain day on their re¬ 
turn ; for the rest the trusted to their well- 
managed ice-chests and store-room. The 
steward hired the stewardesses, who is the 
same as the hotel housekeeper, and she 
generally hired two girls to help her. The 
steward, likewise, hired the porter and bar¬ 
ber, but had nothing to do with the bar¬ 
keeper, nor engineers, or mate’s crew. 
There was a pantryman, who did not wait 
at table; the fifteen or twenty waiters were 
divided into berth-makers (instead of cham¬ 
ber-maids), lamp-trimmers, knife-cleaners 
(for plated knives had not yet come into 
use), napkin-folders, and the usual side 
work, and they filled in all their time be¬ 


sides in scrubbing paint, except the short 
interval in the afternoon. 

These waiters had to carry all the stores 
on board from the wharf, whether at the 
city starting point or at way landings, so 
that the steward and those he hired and 
controlled carried on the entire hotel de¬ 
partment of the boat without aid or inter¬ 
ference from anybody. Steamboats are 
still running under much the same rules. 
This is spoken of in the past tense, because 
it refers to a time when the passenger trade 
was so good that the steamboat table was 
as good as money and skill could make it, 
and the time on each trip was long enough 
to make the steamboat more like a hotel in 
some out-of-the-way place than the light¬ 
ning-express boats of to-day can possibly 
be; and, besides the best of their time was 
from ten to twenty years B. W., which 
means before the war. So, presumably, 
those old-time stewards are all dead and 
cannot object to the statements contained 
in the next chapter. 

“THE EVIL WHICH MEN DO LIVES AFTER 
THEM.” 

These men, these old-time river stewards, 
are largely to blame for the fact that there 
are so few stewards now in the hotels. 
Their standard of morals was generally 
very low; they were sharps, they were 
universally “on the make.” When the 
passenger trade was taken away from them 
by the building of railroads they naturally 
went into the hotels, where they were not 
adapted to remain, the hotels being gen¬ 
erally not large enough to hold them and 
not wealthy enough to stand the “ bleed¬ 
ing” which the river steward could not 
live without resorting to. 

About five years ago a party of four 
or five old survivors met together talk¬ 
ing, and a number of young hotel boys 
sat around learnjng steward wisdom as it 
fell from their lips. Said one: 

“ What! Don’t you know how it was we 
river fellows never could make a go of it 
in a hotel ?” 

“ No; what was the reason?” 

“ Landladies!” 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


7 . 


And then he brought his lips together, 
bulged out his cheeks, and looked around 
as if that one immense word was all that 
need be uttered. Soon he resumed: 

“ You know there’s no landladies on the 
boats and—oh, well,” with a shrug, “in the 
hotel pastry room and kitchen you don’t 
see the difference, for they don’t go there 
much, but we are all about the house and 
so are they, and when we go to run it 
right we step on their toes every once in a 
while.” 

“Well,” said another, “I got a pretty 
good ‘sit’ in there at the St. James, and 
never quite knew how I got out of it, but 
somebody must have been meddling. You 

know I was on the N-No. 2 and on No. 

3; they both burned up, and then I went 
and brought out the new No. 4, but there 
was no water that season and she couldn’t 

run; so Captain C-took me over to the 

St. James and gave me an introduce, and I 
went as steward of the house, and 1 made 
up my mind that was better than a boat 
and I could keep my family cheaper. There 
was my buggy ready for me at five every 
morning to go the rounds of the markets, 
and I would go to the butcher’s and pick 
out what I wanted for the day, and I would 
pick out a roast for myself and order that 
sent around to my house when they sent 
the wagon with meat to the hotel; then 
down to the fish market and vegetable mar¬ 
ket and do the same. Then I drove back 
to the house and when the stuff came in I 
weighed it, footed up what I had bought, 
took the bills to the office and they handed 
me the money to go and pay them with, 
for they paid cash on the nail every day, 
and after breakfast I went around again 
and paid for everything received that morn¬ 
ing. Every week or two I would say to 
the butcher, ‘ Well, what do I owe you for 
what you have sent to my family?’ ‘ Oh, 
nothing,’ says he, ‘that’s all right,’ and not 
one of the others ever charged me a cent, 
either, and I was getting along as good as 
you could expect of a hotel; but somebody 
must have been meddling, for I had a little 
unpleasantness in the office and I quit.” 


Then another took up the conversation: 
“We hadn’t such a bad time with those 
boats when the seasons were right, with 
plenty of water in the rivers. A fellow had 
to be in with the boat store-men and then, 
he was all right, for they could get him a, 
berth if he got out, and would pull him, 
through a hard time. Yes, they were a 
clever lot of fellows. I used to stay around 
with old Tom Curtice and son at Vicks¬ 
burg, and I’ve seen the time when it was. 
pretty hard to pull through from one season 
to another, I tell you, but whenever I went 
to Curtice he would say, ‘Well, Frank, 
how is it now?’ ‘By jing,’ says I, ‘ it’s 
pretty tough when a boat’s so long coming 
out.’ ‘ Well, Frank,* says old Tom, ‘what 
do you want, what can we do for you; all, 
you’ve got to do is to say it?’ ‘ Well, Mr. 
Curtice,’ says I, * about twenty-five dollars, 
to pay house rent is the size of it.’ Then 
without another word he would turn to his 
son and say, “ Richard, open the drawer 
and hand Frank twenty-five dollars—no,, 
give him thirty, he can use it,’ and that’s 
all there would be about it. It might be 
months afterward, but sometime I would 
say, ‘ Mr. Curtice, how about that thirty 
dollars I owe you?’ ‘ Oh, don’t name it,’ 
says he, ‘you don’t owe us a cent; but how 
many tierces of ham, bacon, shoulders and 
lard shall we send aboard this morning?’ 
Well, it was to their interest to be clever to 
us and they knew it. The captain was stuck 
on having all the stores purchased in New 
Orleans, but in the first place it was not his 
business where I got my stores, as long as 
the price was right, and then it was the 
easiest thing in the world for me to forget ( 
or have it come from the New Orleans 
house late enough to miss the boat, and 
have to take on stores at Vicksburg, any¬ 
way.” 

Such are the favorite topics the old-tim¬ 
ers love to converse upon and the hotel 
boys think they are learning from them 
how to be stewards. 

One year ago one of these same young 
men, who listened for hours to the talk of 
the party above named, was met by the- 







8 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


writer in the South. In the interval he 
had been steward, or part steward, in a 
hotel in a town on the Hudson, and what 
he told of his experience showed that the 
lessons in stewarding, he had listened to, 
were not thrown away upon him. 

When met he was the roast cook in a 
large hotel at forty dollars per month, and 
in answer to the question how he was 
getting along, he replied: 

“Oh, I made the worst sort of a break 
for myself when I came down here. I had 
a good little house up in York State; I was 
chef\ but the house did not keep a steward 
and I did the buying for them, and was 
doing very well, but I kicked because they 
would only pay sixty dollars. But if I had 
looked at it right that house was worth a 
hundred dollars a month to me, every cent 
of it, and it was a small house and I didn’t 
have to work hard.” 

“But how was it worth a hundred a 
month to you ?” 

“Well, for one thing, I was sure of a five 
dollar bill from the butcher every Monday 
morning, and all the others I traded 
with chipped in a little. Then I made the 
waiters whack up to me; they got money 
and they had to divide or would not get 
anything. Then at Christmas time I got 
a new suit of clothes, a pair of fine boots 
and a fine hat and they never cost me a 
cent; but 1 kicked on the sixty dollars and 
they got somebody else and I quit and 
came down here.” 

And so the young would-be stewards 
are cut down like the green grass and the 
race is in danger of becoming totally 
extinct. 

THE PERNICIOUS COMMISSION SYSTEM. 

The very fact that these old-school stew¬ 
ards and the young fledglings who think 
they are learning the steward’s duties from 
them, relate these money-making exper¬ 
iences with so much gusto, and, indeed, 
make them their favorite subject of con¬ 
versation, shows that they do not consider 
bribe-taking dishonest. It may be their 
moral sense is very dull, but if they need 


to justify themselves they can find abund¬ 
ant excuse in the prevailing system of per 
cents and commissions. There is not a 
thing that must be purchased from a mer¬ 
chant but bears two different prices: the 
list price, or asking price, and the net price. 
From the material to build the hotel, the 
furniture, ranges and crockery, to the type 
to print the bill of fare, everything comes 
priced at so much, but with five, ten, fifteen 
or twenty-five per cent, off to the actual 
purchaser, and if the old-school steward is 
allowed to be the purchaser there is no 
possibility of convincing him that he is not 
entitled to that commission, and, further¬ 
more, according to his reasoning, if the 
distant merchant do so unsolicited the 
home met chants must be made to do the 
same. And the home merchant who wants 
his trade agrees with him, and, more than 
that, says to him, “You may as well take 
the commission; if you don’t somebody 
else will, and if not the house will not get 
the benefit; the price will be the same and 
we shall keep the commission ourselves, 
as well as our regular profit.” 

The writer knew a youthful cook in a 
large hotel, only a few months ago, who 
went to the office and asked the proprietor 
to send for a list of knives and tools for 
him and take the amount out of his current 
months wages. The proprietor did so. 
The bill of goods was in the neighborhood 
of twenty dollars; there was the usual dis¬ 
count allowed and it amounted to about 
three dollars and a half. The proprietor, 
who was a mercantile man himself, charged 
the cook the full list price and put the pur¬ 
chaser’s commission in his own pocket. 
This made the youthful cook, and probable 
future steward so “mad” that he would 
have discharged the proprietor if he could, 
but as he could not he tendered his own 
resignation instead. Yet this is what the 
old-school stewards think is the right thing 
to do. Human nature is the same in 
proprietor as in cook, and when the stew¬ 
ard pockets the commissions which he 
ought to obtain for the house and not him¬ 
self, the proprietor may not split logic over 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


9 


it, but he is liable to come to the conclusion 
that he can get along better without a 
steward, and if the butcher is making so 
much profit that he can afford to give five- 
dollar bills to his customers, the proprietor 
will go and receive his share himself. The 
coming steward will refuse to take these 
bribes for reasons apart from the question 
of morality and the correctness of prevail¬ 
ing commercial customs, but from another 
motive, to be dwelt upon further on. 

SOMETHING LESS MANLY. 

While these old-time stewards took such 
extreme pleasure in talking over the de¬ 
lights of commissions and per cents, there 
was another source of profit worked by 
some of them that was never spoken of. 
They were generally a rugged and manly 
set of men, used to controlling others, and 
perhaps were conscious that there was 
nothing to be proud of in this sort of 
brokerage. It was the selling of the situ¬ 
ations under them. None can know 
whether the practice was general or to 
what extent it prevailed, but it was well 
known that the situations 6n some boats 
could only be obtained by purchase. The 
stewards kept up communications and 
knew where every available porter, second 
steward, stewardess, cook and baker could 
be found, and if the old hands were not 
coming back some such trades as this 
took place. The boat paid a certain price 
for each employe, the rate being fixed by 
the stewards themselves, and no man or 
woman was wanted, or could ever after¬ 
wards obtain a situation, who would offer 
to come and take less. The stewardess 
(housekeeper) was required to be a respect¬ 
able, matronly sort of a woman, one whom 
the lady passengers could feel at home 
with; the wages for such was usually forty 
dollars per month, but she did not secure 
it all, having to pay part of it to the stew¬ 
ard. fn the case of a cook the trade would 
be about like this: 

Steward—“This boat pays eighty dollars; 
what will you give me for the job—will 
you pay me twenty dollars a month for it?” 


Cook—“No, I will pay you len dollars a 
month.” 

Steward—“You can’t have it. But you 
want to work?” 

Cook—“Yes, I want to work.” 

Steward—“And my friend up the river 
writes me that you are a good cook; now, 

I like my cook to be a good one if he does 
not cost me too much—I’ll split the differ¬ 
ence; you shall pay me fifteen dollars a 
month for the job, pay evei*y trip before 
you go ashore.” 

Cook—“All right, I’ll do that.” 

Steward—“Well, pull off your coat and 
go to work; I’ll go and enter your name 
on the cashier’s book.” 

But the cook generally had the privilege 
of hiring and discharging his kitchen help, 
and could partly recoup himself by selling 
the second cook’s job in the same way. 

It must be said in their favor, however, 
that the majority of river stewards thought 
this a despiceable practice. “Why,” cried 
one of them with intense scorn, “a man 
aint fit to be a steward that can’t beat his 
hand out of all their money at cards. 
That’s the way I always do, and it is more 
honorable than grinding them down; what 
is the use of making small dickers!” 

A SPECIMEN LETTER. 

The mixedness of the ideas of a stew¬ 
ard’s duties contained in the following let¬ 
ter is easily accounted for when the fact is 
taken into consideration that there are two 
different types of stewards now doing busi¬ 
ness in the hotels of this country; one set 
does and the other does not do as the winter 
says. After discussing the matter from 
their different standpoints we will endeavor 
to draw some definite conclusions and out¬ 
line the duties of the coming steward. 
This letter is from New Hampshire; it is 
written on paper bearing the imprint 
“Kearsarge” hotel; it is one of the best 
specimens of a letter of inquiry of this sort 
ever received, for the writer has ideas of 
his own and starts the subject, and the 
italics, which are his own, intimate very 






IU 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


clearly just what points were in dispute. 
It runs: 

“Having some dispute with friends in 
regard to the duties of a steward in a first- 
class house I told them I would leave the 
matter to you to decide as I knew * * * * 
I told them that the steward engages all 
the help for the kitchen, the chef included, 
also headvvaiter (the waiters under the 
headwaiter may be hired by the head- 
waiter subject to the steward’s approval), 
and that all the above help are under and 
subject to the steward’s control; that the 
steward does all the buying of f upplies for 
the table and all kitchen utensils; that the 
pastry cook or confectioner makes all ices 
and creams; that the steward does no carv¬ 
ing, as that is done by the cook or his as¬ 
sistants; that the steward gets up all bills 
of fare; that it is not his duty, or his assist¬ 
ants’, to carry from the carving room and 
care for the meats, etc., that may be left 
after the dinner is over, that duty belong¬ 
ing to the cook; that the steward does no 
manual labor, but is the head and director 
of all matters pertaining to kitchen and 
dining room; that the steward’s assistant 
f repares all meats for cooking, but not the 
steward personally. 

I have been interested in small hotels, 
not large enough to employ a steward, and 
so may be v rong in my statement, and if 
so will you please give me the correct du¬ 
ties of a steward, and oblige, etc.” 

THE STEWARD THE SUPERIOR OFFICER. 

The first proposition is only partly right, 
the steward hires the chef or head cook 
but not the kitchen help under him; the 
steward hires the headwaiter but hot the 
waiters under him; the steward hires the 
baker, pastry cook and confectioner but 
not their helpers—not by right, but he 
frequently does in fact as a matter of ac¬ 
commodation because he knows where to 
find them when the cooks themselves do 
not, and the steward always has the power 
to discharge any hand for disobedience or 
misconduct, or to suspend or fine him. 

The steward is the superior officer over 


the head cook, over the headwaiter, over 
the pastry cook and the rest. He is next 
to the proprietor. He is responsible for the 
good or bad table that the house sets, and 
for the quality of the service. If he does 
not have the power to hire or discharge 
the cooks they will work against him and 
there will be no harmony; they will look 
to the higher authority, blame the steward 
for the poor quality, real or alleged, of the 
supplies furnished to them, and make of 
him little more than a market man and 
messenger, and the headwaiter will take 
but little notice of the complaints the stew¬ 
ard may hear and report to him concern¬ 
ing his waiters’ conduct, if he knows 
that the steward has no power except to 
talk. 

THE STEWARD DEALS ONLY WITH THE 
HEAD MEN. 

But the head cook has his own favorite 
second who goes with him year after year, 
and frequently his roast cook and broiler 
and several others whom the steward never 
exercises his authority over, except when 
they wilfully transgress his rules, and 
rarely ever speaks to, for whatever they do 
wrong or right the head cook is responsible 
for, and all orders for them to do anything 
are given to the head cook; the steward 
will say, “have your man there do this, or 
“your vegetable cook is not giving good 
satisfaction, will you look into that mat 
ter.” There may be a hand in the 
kitchen or bake house whom the steward 
thinks is exceptionally good, yet, some 
day the head cook or head baker may dis¬ 
charge him or her by writing on a piece of 
paper, “Steward, please pay off bearer— 
for good cause.—John Smith, chef. Sept, 
i, 1887.” And the steward will not inter¬ 
fere, but lets the hand go without a word— 
unless he is ready to dispense with the ser¬ 
vices of the chef. The same with the 
headwaiter. There is not probably a rec¬ 
ognized headwaiter in the land, one who 
is known and capable, who would take 
charge of a dining room where the side 
waiters were to be hired by the steward or 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


11 


any one else. He could not exact perfect 
obedience from his waiters without having 
the power to dismiss them without appeal. 
Nevertheless the steward can compel the 
discharge of a waiter who is direlict in his 
duty or disobedient. 

THE STEWARD AS BUYER. 

The next proposition does not admit of 
a straightforward answer. It is: “The 
steward does all the buying of supplies for 
the table and all kitchen utensils.” Undoubt¬ 
edly the coming steward will; he is wanted 
for that very purpose, but as a matter of 
present fact, as the correspondent puts it, he 
does not, except in a few cases. And the 
hotels are the worse off because of the de¬ 
ficiency of stewards, the buying for a hotel 
being a trade in itself, not to be picked up 
or assumed by anybody on short notice, 
but requiring long practice and varied ex¬ 
perienced to become proficient in. The 
steward’s functions in this respect are often 
assumed now by the proprietor. We read 
that one or other of the proprietors of the 
largest of New York hotels goes regularly 
to market at five in the morning and makes 
the purchases for the day, numbers of 
prominent hotel keepers, besides, have 
been noted as following the same practice. 
If it be a lack of confidence in stewards in 
general which has led to their being shorn 
of their proper authority, it is likely the 
stewards of past years have themselves to 
blame. There is very little that is pleasant 
in a steward’s life, he has to be a sort of a 
policeman, austere, apparently unsym¬ 
pathetic, and he cannot permit familiarity, 
nor afford to be sociable, but most men in 
the position find a pleasant relaxation 
in marketing and driving good bargains, 
and when, in addition to the pleasure of 
smart trading, the idea of making a little 
private gain in a seemingly harmless way 
is entertained, the steward is very liable to 
give that part of his duties nearly his whole 
attention, and leave the disciplinary portion 
inside the house to neglect ;then the proprie¬ 
tor volunteers to do some part of that duty 


that his steward may have more time to 
“stay in and look after the help.” 

Yet no volunteer or occasional buyer 
can leave the office desk, or pantry, or store 
room and go and buy at once cheaply and 
intelligently. The experienced steward 
does not have to memorize a lot of rules to 
know whether game, fish, poultry or meats 
are fresh and wholesome or not, he knows 
at a glance; he has no chemist’s tests about 
him for determining whether a sample of 
butter is genuine or imitation, he knows at 
once, he is practiced at it. The volunteer 
buyer, landlord or clerk rushes out and 
buys what he thinks are bargains because 
below the retail price, while the practiced 
steward comes in with the same thing twice 
as good and bought at half the price. The 
practiced steward does not buy small po¬ 
tatoes, nor small apples, nor stale eggs 
because they are under price, as the volun¬ 
teer buyer does, for he knows they will all 
waste away in use and cost double in the 
long run, nor does he buy fruit that will 
not keep till next day, nor buy anything on 
a falling market. He knows where small 
supplies of a scaice article may still be 
found in the bye-ways of the market and 
keeps them in view, but does not buy till 
absolutely compelled, thinking that new 
offerings and cheaper may arrive at any 
hour. The volunteer buyer cannot be so 
systematic, nor can he watch the fluctua¬ 
tions of the market in staple groceries and 
provisions to take advantage of them as 
the regular steward does. The coming 
steward will get all these things down 
finer yet, including fuel and furnishing in 
his purchases, and he will not sell his inde¬ 
pendence and freedom to roam the markets 
over to any merchant for “a commission.” 

p 

THE STEWARD PUTS IN HIS FANCY WORK. 

Next, our correspondent evidently does 
not say what he means, his question is in¬ 
direct, he says: “The pastry cook or con¬ 
fectioner makes all ices and creams,” he 
probably means it is not the steward’s duty 
to make them; right, but probably the com¬ 
ing steward will one day make a cream or 







12 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


an ice and another day an entree or a soup, 
whatever else he c: n beat the world at, just 
because he can, and for the credit of his 
table. Even now there are hotels employ¬ 
ing bakers, who are bread bakers only, who 
cannot make a biscuit, or a common 
custard or pudding, and pastry cooks who 
consider creams and ices so exclusively 
confectioners’ work that they never try to 
make them, and if they are good hands 
otherwise, the working steward steps in 
and supplies the deficiencies out of his own 
superior knowledge. The writer knows 
of one summer resort, where the number 
of guests often reaches three hundred, 
where the creams, ices and fancy sweets of 
all sorts, except cakes and pies, are made 
by the proprietor’s sister, with plenty of 
laboring help to assist, the baker having 
plenty else to do, and it is often said that 
these “little desserts” are the best things 
the house has to serve, which illustrates 
the point that the pastry cook does not al¬ 
ways make them, although it certainly is 
his business. 

ALL STEWARDS CARVE. 

The next proposition: “The steward 
does no carving, as that is done by the 
cook or his assistants,” is quite wrong. 
The only point that all sorts of stewards 
are agreed upon is that it is the steward’s 
duty to carve. The ability to carve is one 
of the accomplishments of a gentleman. 
The necessity of the steward’s carving is 
obvious, else how can he know how the 
meat turns out which he is buying? how 
can he know how much is taken and how 
much is left over? how can he know, 
whether the fault found with the meat in 
the front of the house is attributable to the 
cook’s negligence or to the meat itself? 
how ciin he know what meat goes to the 
officers’ dining room, what to the nurses 
and children, and what to the help? And 
if the head cook is to carve who is to dish 
up the entrees he has made which nobodv 
knows how to dish up right but himself? 
and who is to watch the run that is made 
upon this or that dish, or the soup, or fish, 


or salad, or vegetables, and provide more 
before the last order is gone, if his atten¬ 
tion is engrossed at the carving table? The 
old steamboat stewards always carved the 
meat, sometimes the captain assisted. The 
New York City hotel stewards carve, only, 
when the hotel is large, there are two 
stewards, and the inside steward is the 
carver, the outside steward has no time for 
it. The New England stewards, who go 
South every winter, all carve. A steward 
of the writer’s acquaintance, who grew up 
in the Niagara Falls hotels and was troubled 
with obesity, begged off from carving be¬ 
cause he suffered from the heat, but he 
never hinted even that carving was not his 
proper duty. A certain California steward, 
who, however, has been every where,where- 
ever he goes, always assumes the carving as 
his right, and his skill in dismembering a 
fowl almost instantaneously is really mar¬ 
vellous. A true New' York City steward in 
a large southern hotel used to make his 
carving time very short and got the head 
cook totake hold for him, but never denied 
that it w r as his business to carve. One of our 
model New England stewards is now a 
proprietor of tw'O resort hotels in their re¬ 
spective seasons, but still acts as his own 
steward, and his chef told the writer, in 
answer to questions on these very points, 
that he did his own carving until the house 
became so full it was scarcely possible for 
him to do so, and then the chef found him 
a carver and he accepted him and released 
himself. 

ASSISTANT CARVERS. 

The steward, being the chief carver, does 
not necessarily do all; in a large hotel there 
is a row of carvers, from three to six, or 
more, all at work at once, and there can be 
no rule about these assistants. They may 
be both inside and outside stewards, some¬ 
times the second cook, for he is often set 
at liberty while the chef dishes up the en¬ 
trees. Sometimes the roast cook or broiler, 
or the meat cutter. In some hotels one of 
the clerks is an expert carver and assists, in 
others it may be a porter who regularly 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


13 


comes in. A very good combination is 
coffee maker and carver. The coffee man 
has plenty of employment at breakfast and 
supper making and serving the coffee, tea, 
chocolate and hot milk and slicing cold 
meats, but at dinner these things are un¬ 
important and the coffee man finds em¬ 
ployment at the carving table instead. 

THE STEWARD AND THE BILL OF FARE. 

Then, says our correspondent: “The 
steward gets up all the bills of fare.’’ 

The coming steward will, but he will be 
a true mciitre tV hotel , he will be a scholar, 
a man of taste and grammar, he will know 
more than the cook, pastry cook, baker and 
confectioner, all combined, about dishes 
and th£ modes of preparing them and about 
literary composition. There are a very few 
such stewards now, they make the bills of 
fare, therefore they rule the kitchen and 
make, or break, the culinary reputation of 
the hotel. Here is a recent paragraph from 
the gastronomic items of an eastern paper, 
that reads right: “Young turkey, split and 
broiled, is more delicious than spring 
chicken. It is a dish that is very nicely 
cooked and served under the supervision 
of Mr. R. C. Amos, the experienced and 
judicious steward of the Revere House, 
whose cuisine is getting to be much talked 
about and tested.” 

That gives us the impression that it is 
the steward that knows what is good and 
the cooks are but the hands, while he is 
the head, that he plans and they execute, all 
of which is in the natural order of things 
and as it should be. But a person who sets 
up to be a steward without training and 
without study, and who is beholden to the 
cooks for his culinary information and his 
terms for the bill of fare, becomes little 
more than a tool in their hands. If he does 
not know more than they, he will not have 
their respect, and he will have no real 
authority. Cooks generally are not so dis¬ 
interested as to work hard when they are 
just as free to work easy. The chef can 
make his bill of fare so that it will lake the 
very best endeavors of all his assistants to 


get the dinner ready in time, or he can 
make it so that there will not be enough 
work to fill up the hours, for he knows 
which dishes are tedious and difficult to 
prepare and which dishes are mere child’s 
play for their easiness, and if left alone is 
prone to make the easy and commonplace 
dinners every day; he may use canned 
goods almost exclusively, because they are 
ready prepared and makes the inexperi¬ 
enced steward his errand boy to go out con¬ 
tinually to buy him some more readv-made 
goods. If a new cook is brought into the 
kitchen he is likely to find a different set of 
utensils to work with, from those he was 
used to in the last place, and if he finds the 
steward inexperienced and weak he will 
get him to buy a new outfit for his especial 
benefit. The cook in such a case may be 
right, but it is necessary for the steward to 
know absolutely the merits and faults and 
the use of all the different utensils that he 
may be the judge of the needs in the par¬ 
ticular department, and discern the differ¬ 
ence between a real need and the whim of 
a cook. The steward who does not know 
this cannot take the bill-of-fare writing out 
of the chef's hands without being met with 
hundreds of objections to his own bill, on 
the grounds of there being no suitable pot 
for this, or pan for that, no time to make 
one dish and no material for another. 

THE STEWARD WHO DOES NOT KNOW. 

On the other hand the cooks would have 
good cause for complaint against any 
steward, inexperienced in culinary affairs, 
who should try to get up the bill of fare. 
There is a character in Shakespeare’s Win¬ 
ters Tale very much like some of these un¬ 
finished stewards—says he: “Three pounds 
of sugar; five pounds of rice; rice? What 
will this sister of mine do with rice? But 
my father hath made her the mistress of 
the feast and she lays it on! I must have 
saffron to color the warden pies, (pear pies), 
mace, dates; nutmegs seven, a race or two 
of ginger, (but that I may beg); four pounds 
of prunes, and as many raisins of the sun.” 

The cooks are driven wild at times by 







14 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


the immature steward’s sublime uncon- 
ciousness that all these trifles which they 
ask for are of any sort of consequence, his 
vague idea that any time in the course of 
a month will do. “Turnips and carrots? 
what are turnips and carrots? common and 
cheap—I don’t ever eat them, who cares 
for turnips and carrots?” But the chef can 
do next to nothing without them. “Chives, 
shalots, leeks, thyme, what good are they? 
Aniseed? What does the baker need ani¬ 
seed for, and cream of tartar, and paper 
and hops and potatoes? I’ll try to remem¬ 
ber them sometime when I go down town.” 

But if the chef cannot get a pound of 
pork or bacon at the proper time, he will 
have no larded fillet, nor rice-birds wrapped 
in bacon, and without hops for yeast the 
baker will have no bread. It would be use¬ 
less for an alleged steward of this sort to 
try to make bills of fare for the cooks to 
work up to. But the genuine steward 
knows what these workers want, even better 
than they do, things that they forget and 
forget purposely to avoid work. 

The old palace steamboat stewards made 
up their own bills of fare without consult¬ 
ing the cooks, for they knew what they 
had in their ice chests when the cooks did 
not, and they knew what they were going 
to have for dinner seven days ahead, and 
the bills of fare they sent to the kitchens 
to be executed drove many a cook to strong 
drink. A few hotel stewards are now 
evidently making up their bills of fare un¬ 
aided and according to ther own notions, 
for their mentis are original in their leading 
features. The ordinary practice now is for 
the chef and pastry cook each to make out 
his own part of the bill of fare and either 
steward or proprietor looks it over, perhaps 
rewrites it, possibly suggests changes, then 
sends it to the printer, but still that bill is 
the cook’s and not the steward’s. So, to 
come back to the original question: “Does 
the steward get up all bills of fare?” the 
answer is yes, when he is a better man 
than any of the cooks, and the coming 
steward will be that and higher priced. 


THE STEWARD IS THE OVERSEER FIRST 
AND LAST. 

The next proposition of our correspond¬ 
ent does not admit of a straight yes or no, 
either. It is: “It is not the steward’s duty^ 
or his assistants’, to carry from the carving 
room and care for the meats, etc., that may 
be left after the dinner is over, that duty 
belonging to the cook.” 

It is the duty of the steward to see that 
nothing is wasted, however he may secure 
that end, and there is no part of a steward’s 
duty more important to the proper conduct 
of a hotel than his duty to stay in the 
carving room or kitchen until the meal is 
over. Where a head cook is doing his full 
duty he is unable to stay there till the end; 
his labor is of a sort that taxes his powers 
of endurance, he begins his work early and 
finds no time for a recess until dinner is 
over, his own meals in the early part of the 
day are swallowed in a hasty manner, his 
mind being on other matters, and he is in 
no condition to stand at the carving table 
two hours and then stay till the last watch¬ 
ing what may be left over. It is the cook’s 
trade to cook and serve the meals to the 
waiters, the taking care of the surplus de¬ 
volves upon somebody else. The actual 
carrying and putting away may be done by 
the second cook or the carver, but the 
steward is the director of the matter. 

In a paragraph reprinted in a former ar¬ 
ticle on this subject relating to a Saratoga 
hotel it is truly stated that there has to be 
an exercise of liberality in apportioning the 
quantities to be cooked, so that if fifty or 
sixty people extra should arrive there will 
still be plenty of dinner for them all. But 
if, on the contrary, the fifty or sixty do not 
arrive it is palpable that provisions suffi¬ 
cient for that many more are left over. 
There may be no great harm in that if the 
steward’s watchful eye is over all to see 
that the house is not the loser, fo- such 
things as chickens and green peas and un¬ 
cut roasts of beef are as good as new 
whether hot or cold for the next meal. 
But suppose it is the ordinary style of ho¬ 
tel where the crowd of waiters come to the 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


15 


carving room for the remainders for their 
own dinner (instead of being fed before the 
meal begins) they will “go for” the chicken 
and green peas and the uncut roast of beef, 
and the other remainders when they are 
dong will be remainders still. This will be 
the case if the steward is not present, be¬ 
cause the carver and cooks, even the head 
cook, lack the power to compel the dis¬ 
charge of or to fine or suspend a waiter, 
they have the power only to quarrel and 
threaten, be at war with the head waiter 
who defends his own men, and disgrace 
the house. 

The way these rules actually are com¬ 
promised and worked out is this: The 
steward who is carving and the head cook 
who is dishing up entrees and watching 
the demand upon his various dishes are 
both busy enough during the first hour of 
the meal. About that time the business 
slacks up, the orders come in slowly; the 
steward says to the cook, “We are not 
going to need that whole ham—I shall be 
able to pull through without cutting an¬ 
other roast—that leg of mutton will not be 
wanted.” Then the cook himself, perhaps, 
or the carver who will slice the cold meats 
for the next meal will carry them off to 
the refrigerator. Later, when the steward 
learns from the headwaiter that the last of 
the always-late people are in the dining 
room and have been served he takes a new 
survey. “This whole boiled fish is good for 
a chowder, a fish soup, a dish of scalloped 
fish, a dish a la Bechamel, a fish salad, fish 
cakes or something else, take it away and 
save it. That baked fish is thin, dry, will 
be worthless when cold, you need not keep 
it.” If the head cook be still in sight as 
most likely he will be, although not carv¬ 
ing and no longer serving entrees, the 
steward calls him and asks him if he wants 
to save anything—and he generally does 
want to save the consomme—and if he has 
any stews or ragouts of his entrees to give 
away—as he generally has—and these 
things being all understood, the carver and 
vegetable cook may be left to serve out all 
that remains on the carving stand, and the 


second pastry cook to give away the re¬ 
mainders of pudding and perishable sweets. 

THE STEWARD AS A WORKER. 

Next: “The steward does no manual 

labor, but is the head and director of all 
matters pertaining to kitchen and dining 
room.” 

In reality the hotel steward who does his 
full duty is the most hard-working man in 
the house, if not with his hands then with 
his head and feet. But our correspondent 
was thinking about a steward’s personal 
dignity and his keeping a dressed-up ap¬ 
pearance, and supposes that a steward 
never puts on an apron, nor has to do any¬ 
thing that will soil his hands. This is all 
wrong; the steward never does any menial 
duties, yet he puts on an apron very often. 
Even as a buyer in bad weather the active, 
energetic steward, clad in a rubber coat, 
slouch hat and heavy mud-def) ing boots, 
does not much resemble the parlor dude 
which country hotel boys picture the great 
bossing steward to be. But that fearlesness 
of work does not detract from his personal 
dignity, but rather adds to it. The source 
of personal dignity is not in the hands, but 
in the eye; wealth alone cannot buy it, a 
fool cannot inspire respect; some rich 
chuckleheads are called “Old Billy” or 
“Old Tommy” on all sides all their lives 
in spite of their unsoiled clothing. A fifty- 
dollar steward once objected to the writer 
against putting on an apron and doing 
some necessary thing, on the grounds that 
if he worked his help would not respect 
him any more and he could not then secure 
their obedience. He was not a bad man, 
but there was no mental or moral force in 
him, he had no personal dignity to spare 
and had to be very stingy in the use of 
what little he had; and this poor man came 
to a very humiliating end, after all, for he 
was knocked down by the swill-man and 
carried out by the police. There was an¬ 
other steward of a different make who also 
took fifty dollars because it was all the 
situation was worth and the house could 
not afford to pay more, who filled in his 







16 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


time voluntarily as house carpenter, fur¬ 
niture repairer, locksmith, anything that 
might happen to want doing, in fact, bought 
for the house and cut the meats, and after 
all put on his good clothes and took a four 
hours watch as clerk in the office to relieve 
the proprietor, who was struggling to pay 
for his house, and the point of it is that 
whatever else might be forgot or neglected 
that working steward, when he came to do 
his carving, never failed to find his snowy 
apron laid ready, his towel hanging on its 
peg, his carving knife fresh ground and 
whetted, and his chair placed for him to 
rest, while waiting. He had his help in 
subjection, and had their respect because 
he was a man of force of character, no 
matter what he might choose to do. An¬ 
other of these working stewards, another 
one of our New England models, though 
this one bears a foreign name, was for¬ 
merly a steward in the Boston Brunswick, 
but the writer found him in a much smaller 
establishment where he was at once the 
buyer, the store-keeper or receiver, to take 
in, weigh and book what he had bought, the 
pantryman, preparing and serving the fresh 
fruits in good style, the issuer of stores, 
the writer of the bill of fare, the preparer 
of the meats for cooking, then the carver 
and finally the keeper of the keys when all 
doors where closed. His was not a time 
of kid-gloved ease and he was well aware 
of the fact, but then it was onlv of tern- 
porary duration. Two different owners of 
large and fine hotels, hearing where he 
was, went personally to se him and if 
possible secure his services, and he went to 
one of those houses, as soon as he was at 
liberty, where he again took his position at 
the head of a full force of hands. Men 
of this sort wield a power over their subor¬ 
dinates greater than the non-workers ever 
can, because the hands know the steward 
can always get along without them; he can 
take hold and help himself in a pinch. 

THE STEWARD MANAGES THE MEATS. 

Perhaps the remaining proposition dis¬ 
closes what our correspondent was really 


driving at in asking the manual labor 
question, he says: “The steward’s assistant 
prepares all meats for cooking, but not the 
steward personally.” 

This is one of the dividing points be¬ 
tween the New England type of steward 
and the nautical New York type. The 
former buys the meat, cuts it up (wirh 
assistance if necessary) hands it over to the 
cooks, carves it after cooking, does every¬ 
thing except the cooking of it; the other 
does not cut meats, but counts that the 
cook’s duty and has what he calls a butcher 
cook for that work. 

The coming steward will cut meats, not 
all actually, but he will supervise the 
assistants who do, he will put the cut 
meats away, carry the keys of the refrig¬ 
erators, and hand the meats out to be 
cooked. The modern, improved, system¬ 
atized hotel organization is based upon the 
assumption that every man is honest when 
it is to his interest to be so, and temptations 
and opportunities to be otherwise are re¬ 
moved from the employes as far as possible. 
One employe is made to be a check and 
restraint upon another as far as practicable. 
The steward buys, the store-keeper receives 
and gives receipts, he issues and charges. 
If the cook sends an order for meat, re¬ 
ceives it, cuts and trims, cooks, carves and 
serves it, there is no check upon him ex¬ 
cept the uncertain one of the size of his 
daily bill at the store-room, nobody knows 
what he has done with the meat. But if 
the steward, carrying the keys of the re¬ 
frigerator himself, cuts up the loins of beef 
and sends them ready cut to the kitchen, 
when the tray is sent back for more while 
the meal is going on, the steward may say: 
“How have you used the meat I sent you? 
I sent you fifty porterhouse steaks, fifty 
tenderloin steaks along with one hundred 
common steaks, now you send for more 
choice steaks so early. What have you 
done with the others? Has your broiler 
spoiled them in cooking ? Have you allowed 
them to be served to persons not entitled 
to them? Have you laid them away in 
reserve to sell to some private favorites? 




I 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. IT 


Have you chopped them up for your con¬ 
somme instead of waiting and sending for 
a piece of coarser meat?” Such questions 
are never actually put in words, but the 
cook feels that the steward may ask them 
and the consciousness of restraint makes 
him watch the broiler and be more atten¬ 
tive to the orders as they come. 

As for the dinner meats, the steward 
will remember that he issued fifty pounds 
of roast yesterday, and twenty pounds was 
left over, therefore he issues less to-day, 
and holds the carver or cook responsible 
for that which they took charge of after 
yesterday’s dinner. In this way the stew¬ 
ard holds the reins of government and 
hotel work goes on with the same precision 
as if it were a large factory. The hand 
labor of cutting up meat for hundreds of 
people in a large hotel is no small matter, 
for in some houses it keeps two active 
hands busy from morning till night. In 
such cases the steward only directs which 
meats to use first, and receives and locks 
up the product of the cutting. Steaks and 
chops have to be prepared in the greatest 
amounts. It is merely mechanical work, 
however, and easily learned. When a 
voung man under the steward’s instruction 
has learned to cut one loin of beef right he 
has learned how to cut all, if anything un¬ 
usual is to be done in the way of boning or 
trussing the cook will do it himself. Con¬ 
sequently, when the hotel has not business 
enough to require the employment of a 
meat cutter exclusively, any apt hand 
about the house may be trained easily into 
doing the mechanical part of such work, 
the head work and managing not to lose 
any meat devolving upon the steward. 

STEWARDS NEEDED EVERYWHERE. 

These replies cover all the points raised 
bv our correspondent except the statement 
that there are some hotels too small to 
employ a steward. Strictly speaking there 
are no such hotels. In every hotel the 
steward’s duties are done after a fashion 
by somebody, it would be better if they 
were performed by a working steward who 


would fill up his time as some do by com¬ 
bining these with other duties. The proper 
combination is steward and head cook 
where there is not work enough to fully 
employ a steward. A very common com¬ 
bination is steward and headwaiter being 
oftenest the case where girl waiters are 
employed, perhaps from the fact that where 
male waiters find such an arrangement in 
force the smartest one soon sets himself 
up as headwaiter, and the steward being 
late or otherwise employed allows it. 

THE STEWARD AND THE LANDLADY. 

The recipe for getting along amicably 
with the proprietor’s wife has hitherto been 
kept a profound secret; it is now divulged 
and is alone worth the price of this book.. 
It is this: Make yourself thoroughly 
master of your business before venturing 
where tne landlady is one of the ruling 
spirits, after that go in confidently and be- 
patient. 

Proprietor’s wives are always prejudiced 
in advance against the steward before he 
comes. They fear that their husband’s 
importance is about to be lessened by some--'" 
body usurping his authority; the house¬ 
keeping instinct in them makes them ap¬ 
prehensive that their own prerogatives 
also are to be interfered with. They believe 
in advance that the steward is but a fraud 
and a pretender, and if they can prove him 
so he must either leave or lead a dog’s life,, 
and not a pet dog’s either. But women 
generally worship efficiency. Let the new 
steward show skill and knowledge superior 
to her own, let him stand between the 
tricky traders and herself and husband, and 
buy better and cheaper, bring the help into 
a state of discipline, have the meals on 
time and served promptly, and secure for 
their house more praise for less outlay than 
before, and the recalcitrant landlady is soon 
subjugated and becomes of the opinion that 
a steward is the most indispensable adjunct 
to the hotel business and she couldn’t keep 
house without one. 

THE STEWARD AND THE HOUSEKEEPER. 

The modern hotel is so far different 
from the ship and steamer that the steward* 







18 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


does not hire or discharge the housekeeper 
here as he does the stewardess there. 
There are a few exceptions among the 
largest hotels, the few that are conducted 
as purely mercantile establishments where 
the proprietor’s family does not reside in 
the hotel, and one of the two or thre stew¬ 
ards employed—purchasing steward, inside 
steward or wine-room steward—has ab¬ 
solute control over all the employes outside 
of the office, but such is not and cannot be 
the general practice. The hotel house¬ 
keeper has a domain of her own. The 
housekeeper, the lady guests and proprie¬ 
tor’s wife, who are accustomed to look to 
her for attentions, and the linen and 
laundry department are naturally affiliated 
together, and the steward has no business 
to intrude. He would need more than a 
sheriff’s posse behind him who would go 
up stairs to discharge a housekeeper whom 
the landlady and lady guests liked, only to 
put another in her place more suitable to 
himself. In other words, the steward could 
never exercise his authority over the house¬ 
keeper if he were invested with it, without 
coming in direct conflict with the proprie¬ 
tress of the house. 

THE STEWARD AND TIIE HE AD WAITER. 

“Well, thank God! that’s over,” ex¬ 
claimed a head waiter as he closed the din¬ 
ing-room doors after breakfast, “oh, but 
they scorcfud me, they burnt me up! 
There is no steward out there. I can’t get 
anything out of that kitchen. My waiters 
go there, but never come back. The 
head cook does not know whether he is on 
his head or his feet, his men are all rattled, 
and the people tear me to pieces. I would 
not go through another such season if they 
would give me the house.” 

Thus far we have considered only the 
principal meal of the day, the dinner, in 
Telation to the steward’s duties, but his 
presence during the progress of the other 
meals is no less important. Perhaps there 
is no time when his supervision is felt by 
all to be so necessary as during breakfast; 
the urgency of this need is what impels 


proprietors themselves to assume part of 
the out-door duties that the steward ma) 
remain in the house; this need is what first 
suggests the employment of an inside stew¬ 
ard when the proprietor cannot assist. A 
good steward, a man of force, can get 
about twice as much work out of a set of 
waiters as they will do spontaneously if 
they are left alone. Although the waiters, 
as a class, are higher in the scale of respect¬ 
ability, there is such a similarity of method 
between the mate of a steamer and his 
crowd of deck hands filing past on the 
gang plank carrying goods on board, and 
the inside steward urging the waiters along 
during the rush of the meal, that the com- 
parision is irresistible. The head waiter has 
no business in the kitchen or carving room 
except to look for his waiters when they 
get lost, he cannot stay there to see whether 
they are fooling the time away, or where 
the fault lies. When they pass beyond the 
dining room doors they are out of his power 
and he can only wait till the powers behind 
the scenes send them in to him again. And 
some waiters will “soldier.” One of them 
will see with a side glance some party com¬ 
ing in whom he does not want to wait upon 
and he picks up a dish from a table and 
darts off as if he had been sent for some¬ 
thing, knowing that another waiter will 
have been detailed to attend that party be¬ 
fore he returns, and some old dogs at the 
business will manage it so that they never 
have more than one or two orders at a time 
when they ought to take six or eight. The 
hotel might hire fifty or a hundred waiters 
of this sort and still never have enough. 
It is the business of the steward to see 
through and frustrate all such tricks, and 
also to help the waiters along by seeing that 
they are not kept waiting for supplies at 
the pantry or fruit room, or bread or toast 
tables, or by the hot milk being allowed to 
run out, or by waiting for new supplies of 
meat from below that ought to be brought 
up in time, and a hundred other trifles 
which require forethought, but nobody 
thinks of but the head man. Then there 
are serious knots and snarls taking place 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


19 


in the kitchen. Twenty waiters are wait¬ 
ing for their multifarious orders at once, 
they grow vociferous, the more energetic 
thrust themselves forward and secure their 
orders far in advance of their turn, while 
the quieter waiter looses his turn over and 
over again, and his family of people in the 
dining room have the mortification of seing 
people at the next table, who came in later, 
receive their breakfast promptly, eat it and 
depart before their own waiter even makes 
his second appearance. The simple re¬ 
straint of the steward’s presence at such 
a time is often sufficient to quell the noise 
and correct these irregularities, if not, he 
insists on the taking of regular turns, and 
assists the cooks to know who comes next. 
Under such a supervision the meals are 
served in the least possible time, without 
it the results are low quarrels and confusion 
worse confounded, or, at the best, when 
the business slackens up the kitchen and 
neighboring departments become a play 
house. 

THE STEWARD AND HIS ADVERSARIES. 

The beadwaiter in some hotels is a ver¬ 
itable Warwick the king-maker, he can 
oust the steward frequently, and cause a 
change of chef every month. This is cft- 
enest the case in what are called family 
hotels. It is necessary to have the head 
waiter under the steward’s control, to have 
him hired or discharged by the steward to 
insure thorough discipline and harmony 
throughout the house and for the interest 
of the proprietors themselves, for the ob¬ 
vious reason that when the headwaiter 
knows that the steward, in leaving his 
situation, will most likely unseat the head- 
waiter, too, and the new incoming steward 
will bring his own man, he is likely, from 
motives of self-interest, to help his steward 
to satisfy the people instead of pulling him 
down. The steward in any case has his 
pleasures of wielding authority fully bal- 
lanced by the pains of bearing the blame 
for every untoward happening or defi¬ 
ciency in the hotel. The headwaiter, who 
may not be under the direct control of the 


steward, can make things appear better or 
worse to the guests, as he chooses, and it 
is human nature to detract from another’s 
good name rather than build it up, and in 
depreciating the character of the steward 
in the guests’ estimation, he necessarily 
injures their estimation of the hotel and its 
proprietors. 

The peculiarity of his position in this re¬ 
gard is this: He is always a man of respect¬ 
able appearance, sometimes quite a superior 
man in this respect, and must be fairly well 
dressed. His manner is polite and his 
speech soft ; it is his business to be attentive • 
and appear solicitous for the comfort of the 
guests, and if he chooses he can become 
on very familiar terms with some of them, 
particularly with those fond of gossipping 
about the hotel which they are making 
their home, and there is no more fruitful 
subject for gossip than that of the table and 
the illiberality of those responsible for its 
furnishing. Encouragement from the head- 
waiter, such as may be conveyed by a 
shrug, a significant smile, a little remark 
that he is “sure the house pays enough to 
have the best” and he “can’t imagine the 
reason that what comes in is really so unfit 
to set before first class people,” soon leads 
to the current talk of the house being that 
the way that hotel is conducted is a dis¬ 
grace to the nineteenth century civilization, 
and the proprietors becoming frightened 
discharge the steward and chef. Then the 
harmless-looking headwaiter chuckles in 
his sleeve and softly says: “Next!” This 
is not a fanciful supposition. Names and 
instances could be given. But suppose 
tne headwaiter is desirous of building up 
instead of pulling down, how he can 
smooth over the temporary difficulties, 
softly excuse this thing being out or that 
expected delicacy not having arrived in 
time, call attention to the excellency of this 
dish, or the novelty of that, and promise 
something to come next day! 

THE STEWARD AND THE STOREKEEPER. 

Under the modern hotel system the 
steward does not hire or discharge the 





20 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


storekeeper. The storekeeper is a clerk, 
he represents the proprietor in the stoie- 
room, he is employed or dismissed from 
service by the same authority that engages 
the other clerks. If not ostensibly, he is 
practically a check upon the steward in the 
proprietor’s interest, and is under the con¬ 
trol of the proprietor direct. He receives 
all goods purchased for the establishment, 
whether provisions or crockery, or other 
furnishings, or fuel or ice. He demands 
an invoice with every purchase from the 
smallest to the largest. He counts, weighs 
or measures everything that comes in, 
compares his tally with the invoice or bill, 
notes the quality and condition of goods 
as they come in, marks the discrepancies, 
if any, then enters the actual weight or 
number received in his book, lying always 
ready for the purpose, carries out the 
amount according to the price per invoice 
to his cash column and files the invoice 
or bill away for future use. At the end of 
each day he foots up the total amount. 
The hotel has a stated pay day for staple 
merchandise, usually twice a month, and 
the dealers on that day send in their bills. 
The storekeeper takes each bill and com¬ 
pares it with his book, and if the amounts 
in each are the same he attaches his signa¬ 
ture and “O. K.,” and the dealer then takes 
it to the cashier in the front office who pays 
it and files away the receipt. If the amount 
of the bill presented is not the same as that 
carried out in the storekeeper’s book he 
turns to the invoice or former bill on file 
and finds what he wrote upon it when the 
goods were received, as so many pounds 
short weight, so many tubs of butter be¬ 
low the grade invoiced, fifty per cent, of 
eggs worthless, so many pieces spoiled, so 
many pieces broken, etc., and explains that 
much to the dealer. The storekeeper only 
records the facts and allows payment for 
what he actually receives. Any difficulties 
that arise in consequence are between the 
dealer and the steward, w'ho must settle 
them. When the dealer is satisfied his bill 
as corrected is allowed and he takes it to 
the cashier to be paid. When transient 


marketing is bought by the steward, the 
amounts are weighed by the storekeeper, 
who makes a bill of each lot, signs it, and 
the farmer or huckster takes it to the cash¬ 
ier’s desk and receives payment at once. 

THE STEWARD AND HIS STOREROOM. 

The steward is proud of his well-stocked 
storeroom and spends whatever leisure 
time he may have in it. In one sort of 
storeroom, now found in modern-built 
hotels, the steward spends most of his time 
while on duly, for from it he can oversee 
all that is going on. The storekeeper is to 
all intents and purposes the steward’s own 
clerk, even his private secretary, who saves 
him a vast amount of care and book-keep¬ 
ing. Their relations are precisely that of 
employer and employe and they are on the 
most friendly terms, the trifling fact of the 
storekeeper being an appointee of the front 
office and in a measure independent of the 
steward is perhaps seldom thought of by 
either. 

There are two different patterns of store¬ 
room in use and two different methods of 

/ 

issuing stores, just as there are two differ¬ 
ent classes of steward. The New England 
style of storeroom is in the kitchen itself, 
either built so that a part of it like a shop 
front opens into the kitchen while the back 
opens upon the street where the goods are 
taken in, or the room originally built as a 
kitchen is partitioned off that part may 
serve as a storeroom, and here the store¬ 
keeper remains all day, serving out goods 
to the different departments as they are 
applied for, starch and soap to the laundry, 
toothpicks, matches and stationary to the 
office, fruit, cheese, milk and bottled goods 
to the pantry, lemons and sugar to the bar, 
and all the various articles except meats 
needed by the cooks and bakers. He enters 
all the items in his book and charges them 
to the various departments, and the rest 
of his time is taken up in receiving stores, 
auditing accounts and taking account of 
stock needed to be ordered and once a 
month or oftener of the amount of stock 
on hand. In this storeroom the steward 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


21 


remains ai ring breakfast and lunch or 
supper, am such times as he is not carv¬ 
ing, for here he can hear every order that 
is given and all that goes on in the kitchen, 
being ready to step out if any difficulty 
arises or any special rush of business, and 
while there he wiites his letters to mer¬ 
chants and supply men, looks over his ac¬ 
counts, posts up his books, notes down the 
orders for supplies suggested by the store¬ 
keeper, and keeps count of the changes 
among the help, filling out a blank for 
each and handing it in to the cashier. One 
of our model stewards passes the most of 
his time that way, there being no local 
marketing to do in his locality, and nearly 
all orders for goods having to be sent by 
mail or telegraph He has a little box of 
an office in the corner of the storeroom 
that is less than four feet from the kitchen 
table, and all that is ordered at the store¬ 
room counter he hears, and sees, if he cares 
to, where it goes. This may not be per¬ 
fectly admirable. Perhaps neither the 
reader of this nor the writer would like to 
work under such close surveillance, vet it 
shows to what a point systematic hotel¬ 
keeping has been brought. In this instance, 
fortunately, the ever present steward is an 
amiable man, and if he sees his workers in 
their easy moments he also is with them 
when the crowd is in and he knows how 
well they earn their money. The defect 
in this style of storeroom is in its requiring 
the storekeeper to be always present, and 
the hotel ha« to be of a large size to afford 
one hand for that one duty. The intention 
under that system is that the cooks shall 
never have in posession more material than 
they need immediately, and it is easy for 
them, for the storekeeper becomes in effect 
a waiter to hand trifling amounts to them 
continually. On the other hand the cook 
can complain that he has no check upon 
the storekeeper when the order system is 
dispensed with, for he may draw fifty 
pounds and the storekeeper hating him 
may enter in his book seventy-five pounds, 
and so injure the cook by the apparant 
extravagance of his bills. By the other 


system the cook sends a written order to 
the storeroom for material and keeps a 
duplicate of the order himself, so that in 
case of an accusation of extravagance, 
which may loose him his situation and his 
character, he can appeal to his duplicate 
orders to see whether he has been mis¬ 
represented. The method of ordering and 
issuing supplies from the other style of 
storeroom, distant from the kitchen, is 
fully detailed in another place. The de¬ 
fect of that system consists in the propens¬ 
ity of the cooks to order too much at once; 
having a day’s supply on hand and such 
apparent plenty, they use the material 
more lavishly than if it is counted to them 
pound by pound. A competent steward 
knows how to remedy the defects in either 
case, and there is not much preference to 
be given to one style over the other. It 
will be understood that the written order 
system can be operated as well in the open 
storeroom adjoining the kitchen, but, as it 
is so much easier and quicker to do with¬ 
out an order, it rarely or never is. 

THE STEWARD AND THE CARE OF MEATS. 

Take care of the meat, all the rest will 
take care of itself. It seems most shocking 
to people in general to waste bread because 
such has been the teaching of their child¬ 
hood, but where abundance of other things 
besides bread is in hand, as in our hotels, 
the expense of meat makes that of most 
other items seem insignificant by com¬ 
parison. 

In order to realize how like the wasting 
away of meat is to that of a block cf ice in 
the sun it has to be considered that only 
prime cuts of the carcass are selected in the 
first place. These, under the latest im¬ 
proved system, are subjected to a preserv- 
ing process, being dipped in a solution of 
which the composition is at present a secret, 
and, whether so treated or not, are dried, 
chilled and sometimes even frozen in a 
cold-blast refrigerator, then wrapped in 
several coverings of paper, packed in hogs¬ 
heads and shipped by rail or steamer to all 
parts of the country, usually reaching the 







22 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


destination, which may be a thousand 
miles away, still in a semi-frozen condition. 
Still, this meat, when it reaches the hotel 
meat-cutter’s block, is only raw material. 
There is the bone to be taken out, that is 
from one-fourth to one-third of its weight 
gone; there is the outside to be pared off; 
there is the inevitable loss of weight in 
cooking; there is the risk of loss through 
the negligence of cooks; then the cooking 
of too great a quantity and having it left 
over with the chances doubled that what is 
so left over will not be useful any more, 
and will be entirely lost. That is all under 
the most favorable circumstances. 

But the times that try a steward’s effi¬ 
ciency are the unfavorable times when the 
meat arrives in bad condition, when the 
weather suddenly turns warm while the 
hotel meat house is full of meat, or the 
number of people to be fed suddenly di¬ 
minishes before the stock on hand can be 
worked off; and other unfavorable times 
are those in a resort hotel where the 
weather is most trying and the supplies are 
irregular, there being at one time two or 
three carcasses, and barrels of poultry to be 
taken care of at once, and then nothing 
fresh for several days. The thorough 
steward is, however, equal to the task of 
meeting all these difficulties and makes of 
them no difficulties at all, when the un¬ 
trained and inexperienced man stands help¬ 
less, blames the weather and has the whole 
hotel, the kitchen, carving room and dining 
room for days in succession full of the 
sickening odor of tainted meat. 

Here is an instance of the employment 
of steward’s common sense which may 
prove serviceable. A hotel man finding, 
himself out of employment at the end of a 
summer season, bought the dining car 
privilege on a train carrying a very large 
excursion party out to an interesting part 
of the country on the newly built railroad. 
It was the last week in September, oysters 
in season, but still dear. The man loaded 
up with oysters, raw, soldered tight in cans, 
which came by express packed in ice. 
There was every prospect that the oysters 


would prove the favorite dish with the 
excursionists and he would soon sell out 
his stock, and such might have been the 
case'had the weather remained cool, but it 
changed to summer heat again and oysters 
were not in demand, and, next, the train 
ran into a lot of game, which interested 
the passengers and kept them feasting until 
their return home. The hotel man’s cases 
of oysters remained on hand, still in ice, 
but highly perishable stock. A man less 
accustomed to the care of provisions might 
have sold a few of them to the restaurants 
at a greatly reduced price and have lost the 
rest, but our steward packed the cans in an 
ice chest in a layer of broken ice and salt, 
more ice and salt on top, more cans on 
that and more of the freezing mixture on 
top of them, and the oysters were half 
frozen in the cans and could have been 
kept for weeks, but as the spell of warm 
weather had prevented the dealers from 
ordering any for a few days, the steward’s 
frozen stock was all there was in town and 
he retailed them out at a good profit. An¬ 
other example: A new steward went to a 
city hotel in the trying time of midsummer 
and found that tainted meat served at table 
was the rule rather than the exception, apd 
the waste of meat which became totally 
unfit for use with amazing rapidity was 
enormous. He took the meat out of the 
refrigerator, where they were keeping it, 
altogether. He had a long discarded ice 
chest cleaned out and a draining rack of 
cross pieces laid in the bottom. He placed 
his loins and wasts of beef and quarters of 
mutton on that. He bought sheets of light 
canvas and laid one clean washed on top 
of the me'it, and on the canvas he spread 
plenty of ice. On the ice again he placed 
his smaller meats, lambs, poultry, tongues, 
sweatbreads, covering them with a sheet 
of canvas, and that again with ice and closed 
it down. Every second day he unloaded 
the ice chest, placed the newly killed meats 
at the bottom, to remain there and season 
and become tender, and the old stock on 
top to be used next, and refilled the box 
with ice and occasionally had the canvas 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


23: 


sheets washed and bleached. This going 
back to the old fashioned ice chest looked 
like retrogression, for the upright refrig¬ 
erator, where meat may hang up and keep 
dry in a cold atmosphere, is the later im¬ 
provement, but the requirements of differ¬ 
ent places are different and it all depends 
upon hew the refrigerator is used , whether 
it is the best preserver of meat or not. In 
this case there was no more loss from 
spoiled meat; there was scarcely another 
pound thrown away that summer. Meat 
kept in ice is wet and in danger of becom¬ 
ing soaked and divested of some of its 
juices and fine flavor, but when the other 
alternative is a hot weather taint and the 
greenness of incipient decomposition, the 
ice box method is infinitely preferable. 

One more instance of very recent oc¬ 
currence may prove instructive: A large 
new hotel was finished up and furnished 
with great liberality, as regarded the ex¬ 
pense, the desire on the part of the owners 
being to have everything right, the cost of 
it being only a secondary consideration. 
The refrigerator meat house was therefore 
built of large capacity. The upper part 
would hold a car load of ice at once, the 
lower or meat room was a good sized 
butcher’s shop, large enough both for stor¬ 
age of a good lot of meat, and for barrels and 
boxes besides, and still had room left for 
men to work in. Yet, when the trying 
time of blazing hot days and sultry nights 
came the refrigerator utterly failed of its 
purpose and the meats spoiled in it with 
frightful rapidity, the choicest and costliest 
imported roasts and loins having to be 
thrown away by the hundreds of pounds 
at a time. This was largely owing to the 
incapacity of the cook, but the immediate 
cause was the too frequent opening of the 
refrigerator both at top and bottom, the 
general arrangements being insufficient for 
the needs of the house, and the one large 
receptacle being made a place of half-hourly 
traffic. Hot air was admitted every time 
the door was opened and the ice sometimes 
was diminished to a small quantity, hence 
the meat spoiled quicker than if it had 


never been chilled at all. The remedy 
applied in this case was the removal of 
everything but the fresh* meats and, there 
being no other ice house, the providing of 
a pile of blocks of ice buried in sawdust 
outside, to be drawn from for every other 
purpose, and the refrigirator was then kept 
strictly closed spite of all excuses and 
reasons to the contrary, and then it proved 
effective for its purpose. 

The steward who has meats to manage 
that are not select and not shipped in to 
him ready trimmed avoids loss by attend¬ 
ing to the selection at once as soon as it 
arrives. He has the shanks, flanks, necks 
and breasts cut off and consigned while 
fresh and untainted to the soup boiler, to 
the salt beef barrel, to stews and meat pies, 
holding back live poultry and things that 
will keep till these perishable goods are 
used up, and packs away the choice cuts 
in refrigerators or ice boxes in which there 
is plenty of room and of ice through the 
roughness having been first disposed of. 

The other possible sources of loss of 
meat, which the steward has to watch, are 
the great stock boiler, the cook’s roaring 
fire, the gaping swill barrel and the surrep¬ 
titious back door basket. Of these the 
stock boiler is the most ravenous and con¬ 
sumes the house’s substance with the most 
harmless and innocent expression of coun¬ 
tenance and the most plausible excuses 
and the promise to give it all back, which 
it seldom does. The roaring fire may be 
satisfied to take tainted or dirty meat, the 
swill barrel will be content with cold 
cooked joints, but the hungry stock boiler 
will consume a hundred pounds of the 
freshest meat and relieve the cook of all 
trouble of working it up, and then return 
nothing but a consomme which nobody 
cares for, and which will be rejected even 
in the officers’ dining room where it is that 
or none. 

THE STEWARD AND HIS MANAGEMENT 
OF HELP. 

A new steward cannot get along with, 
old help. Such is the rule. The old hands. 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


24 

all think they know more than he possibly 
can know, they do not want to do new 
ways, they feel disposed to tell him, he be¬ 
ing a stranger, how they do and how he 
ought to do, instead of looking to him for 
direction. When the old hands are good 
and worth keeping the proper way to do is 
to call them up, one at a time, offer to pay 
them off and turn them over to the new 
steward, for him to hire them over again 
if he wants them and if they want to re¬ 
main. It may be productive of temporary 
inconvenience to have any of them leave, 
but it is far better in the long run, for it is 
a formal investment of the new officer with 
his proper authority, without which he can 
not run the back part of the house accord¬ 
ing to his best ability. When a head cook 
leaves his second expects to leave, too, or 
be discharged; only a few exceptional men 
in that position ever remain without the 
formality, at least, of being paid off and be¬ 
ginning anew under the new head cook. 
So in the case of a new steward; the head 
cook and headwaiter expect that their situ¬ 
ations will be wanted for new men of the 
steward’s own, and if they are expected to 
remain it is best to go through the same 
formality with them and let them all begin 
anew. In most cases where a new steward 
comes in it is to be inferred that either 
there was no steward employed there be¬ 
fore, or else there has been laxity of ad¬ 
ministration or corruption or misdoing 
which has led to the change being made. 
Then it is most desirable all around that 
“a clean sweep” should be made. Let the 
really good hands come back after a time 
and be hired over again. This rule is good 
and even necessary, as'has been observed 
already in the case of the headwaiter, for 
if each hand’s place depends upon the dur¬ 
ation in office of the steward, each one will 
be more likely to uphold him and his rules 
than to oppose him. 

As a measure of defense when he is but 
one against so many, the steward keeps 
other hands in view continually. Perhaps 
he finds it convenient to keep in communi¬ 
cation with an employment agency, more 


especially for the finding of the commoner 
sort of help, who are alway changing their 
situations. 

He does not seek to be popular with his 
help. It is not good business policy for the 
steward, or head cook either, to let the help 
praise them too much. The head cook is 
a little less bound, he may let his men have 
a half day off by turns, considering that 
'hey have no Sunday, but the steward can 
not afford to make any such concessions 
of his own accord. The least familiarity 
leads the help to ask favors in food or holi¬ 
days, or drawing pay out of pay times, and 
if the steward yields in any case his power 
is broken. 

He decides according to the kind and 
style of hotel w'hether the waiters shall 
have their meals in their special dining 
room before the guests’ meal time arrives, 
or whether they shall eat after the meals 
are over, he also fixes the time for meals 
for all the other hands, then posts up the 
rules and the notice with them that they 
will loose their meals if they do not come 
within half an hour of the time specified. 
The steward, after consulting the cook, 
fills out a printed blank bill of fare each 
day for the officers’ dining room, whifch 
takes in at its several tables the clerks, 
housekeeper, linen keeper, engineers, car¬ 
penter, barkeepers and various others. If 
there are two soups, this bill of fare has one 
allotted to it, fish, perhaps, and one or two 
kinds of meat, and in all about half the 
variety which goes to the guests, and all 
expensive extras are omitted. A similar 
selected bill of fare is allotted to the nurses 
and children’s ordinary. As regards the 
discharge of the hands under the head cook 
and headwaiter, the steward who sees they 
are idle, inefficient, or not longer needed 
requests the head cook or headwaiter re¬ 
spectively to dismiss them, and it is ex¬ 
pected that they will at once comply with 
the request since it is but a matter of cour¬ 
tesy to them. But for all flagrant offences 
such as drunkenness, using profane and 
obscene language, gambling within the 
house, insulting females, insolence to 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


25 


guests and patrons of the house and the 
like, the steward instantly discharges any 
hand without ceremony. Fines are im¬ 
posed in some cases for minor delinquen¬ 
cies and under some circumstances the 
direlict hands are suspended from employ¬ 
ment and thrown upon their own expenses 
temporarily. 

Tt is the steward’s duty to ask of every 
strange face that appears is his depart¬ 
ments why it is there, to watch that no 
idlers are admitted and to be sure that 
every hand hired is at once entered in his 
book; name, for what purpose employed, 
wages, date. A copy of this memorandum 
he transfers to a printed blank and hands 
it in to the cashier. When a hand is to be 
paid off, he fills out another printed blank, 
with date, name, time due—that is, not days, 
but such a part of a month at so much per 
month—occupation, or what class of service 
the money is paid for, signs it as steward 
and sends the hand with it to the cashier’s 
desk to be paid. 

THE STEWARD AND THE HANDS’ PAY DAY. 

All rules are off where there is no re¬ 
gular pay day. The hotel that is in debt 
to the help is in a bad way; they break 
away from the restraints of dicipline, work 
but to suit themselves and always have it 
in mind to say: “If I don’t suit you pay 
me off!” and in such a house the steward 
has no business. 

The good hotel rule is to have a set day 
each month when the wages due is handed 
to each and every employe of the house in 
a sealed envelope, superscribed with the 
individual’s name and the amount of the 
contents. Most hotels pay on the tenth 
of the month, paying up to the first and 
holding back ten days’ pay until the hand 
leaves finally and then the ten days reserve 
is paid. Some proprietors choose the fifth 
for pay day, keeping back only five days’ 
pay; a few choose the fifteenth, keeping 
back half a month. Some of the largest 
hotels, however, have two pay days each 
month, as the thii d and seventeenth, or fifth 
and twentieth. For several reasons the tenth 


of the month is the best day, and the ten 
days’ pay always retained till the hand 
leaves is sufficient restraint. Were the 
employes paid up in full they would fre¬ 
quently leave the hotel without a word of 
notice. If paid on the fifth they frequently 
sacrifice the five days pay due them in order 
to get away without giving notice, or find¬ 
ing a substitute to take their place. When 
finally paid off by the steward the ten days’ 
reserved pay very frequently is all they 
have saved to live upon until they find 
new employment, and its retention until 
such a time is a real benefit to them. 

On the morning of the pay day, or on 
the day before in a large hotel, the steward 
looks over his time book, notes time lost 
by absence, by sickness, fines, money drawn 
(which can only be drawn through another 
blank filled out by the steward), and any 
other remark; sets down the amount due 
against each name, with particulars, and 
hands the list to the cashier, who compares 
and corrects his own books accordingly, 
and at a convenient time the help are 
ordered to go to the cashier’s window all 
at once and are paid, the steward standing 
by to identify each one if necessary. In 
the smaller hotels, however, the steward 
or a clerk goes around and hands the en¬ 
velopes to the owners without their having 
to leave their work. 

THE STEWARD AND THE CLERKS. 

The steward, having to count the cost of 
meals, cannot make up his estimates, nor 
complete his accounts, without a daily house 
count from the office made up as is fully 
detailed in this book in another place. He 
therefore applies to the clerks for such 
house count, not as a favor, but as his right 
and their duty. Usually the night clerk 
makes the count before breakfast, if he fails 
the steward applies to the chief clerk to 
have the remissness corrected. It is the 
duty of the chief clerk or the proprietor, as 
the case may be, to notify the steward of 
the expected arrival of any unusual num¬ 
ber of people to be entertained that he may 
provide accordingly, and in like manner to 





2G 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


warn him of the departures that he may 
reduce his kitchen estimates in proportion. 

THE STEWARD AND THE PROPRIETOR. 

“And what shall I be doing all this 
time!” some proprietor will ask, who has 
read thus far. Well, there was once a very 
handsome and popular hotel proprietor, 
whom the writer knew, sitting on the 
piazza among his guests and one of them 
asked him about something in the back of 
the house and why he had it so. “Well, 
sir,” said the proprietor, “I have a steward, 
an excellent man, and very capable to 
attend to all those matters, and I think I 
build up my business better and make more 
money by remaining in front and looking 
after the comfort and pleasures of my 
guests, than I could by hiding myself away 
in the interior and leaving you all to the 
small share of attention you would get 
from the over-worked clerks. Whatever 
is worth doing is worth doing well. I give 
my steward entire charge of the inside of 
the house and do not interfere with him, 
and I take entire charge of the front my¬ 
self.” There was nothing very striking in 
this reply, but it outlines the chief duty of 
the proprietor to himself as he understood 
it. Very few men are adapted by nature 
to be at once a genial host in the front and 
an austere disciplinarian inside the house. 
At present, it is true, a great number of 
proprietors are performing the more re¬ 
sponsible part of the steward’s duties, be¬ 
cause they have no steward, and the head 
cook is trying to do the rest. The effect 
will be when every hotel has its real stew¬ 
ard in his proper place that there will be 
fewer managers, assisstant managers, clerks 
and men of mixed duties, there will be more 
cooks and fewer chefs. 

The relation of the hotel steward to the 
landlord is the same now as the land stew¬ 
ard of scriptural days w as to the land owner; 
he gives an account of his stewardship. 

Under the modern hotel system the 
steward comes to the proprietor’s private 
office with his books or transcripts of them 
in hand and shows what it is costing per 


meal and per day to run the house in its 
present style. His accounts, properly kept, 
show at a glance: 

How many people were in the house to-day. 
How many meals where served. 

How much value of material the meat 
cook used. 

How much the pastry cook used. 

How much the pantry man or womin used. 
How much the head laundress used. 

How much the office force used. 

How much the barkeeper used. 

How much these amounts are above or 
below the average. 

How much per meal it cost for all hands. 
How much it cost for the guests. 

Cash value of stock in store room this 
night. 

THE INSIDE STEWARD’S SPECIAL DUTIES. 

Where there is too much work for one 
steward two are employed. The purchas¬ 
ing steward not having time to remain in 
the kitchen and carving room during the 
two or three hours of each meal the inside 
steward steps in. The duties are not differ¬ 
ent from what has been already detailed, 
but they are divided between two and the 
inside is the second, if one must rank the 
other, the purchasing steward having 
charge of the accounts and the cost per 
meal and per day of running the house, 
while the inside steward has immediate 
control of the kitchen and dining room. 
The special need of an inside steward is 
most apparent when a hotel has a number 
of private dinners, suppers and banquets to 
get up as a part of the regular business. 
Then the inside steward is the one to be con¬ 
sulted upon the subject of the menu for each 
occasion. He is required to be acquainted 
with all dishes, wines and the etiquette of 
the table. He decides the choice of viands, 
knowing which are in season and which 
are most suitable for the time, due regard 
being had to the amount of money the 
purchaser wishes to spend. The inside 
steward is more than a headwaiter and 
supersedes him in many cases, for the in¬ 
side steward enters the dining room and 





27 


THE STEWARD 

has the private dinners served under his 
own supervision and management. 

THE WINE-ROOM STEWARD’S SPECIAL 
DUTIES. 

Wine stewards are employed in hotels 
where a large bar and banquet business is 
done. It is the duty of this steward to have 
his store-room open, very much like the 
kitchen store-room, during meal times 
and be ready to hand out the bottled wines, 
liquors, ales, mineral waters, etc., to the 
waiters, according to the orders written on 
the cards and signed by the headwaiter, 
which they bring to him. He buys wines, 
etc., for the house by the barrel and bottles 
them; perhaps rectifies, mixes, compounds, 
bottles and labels various spirits and cor¬ 
dials. He issues supplies to the bar and 
books the amounts the same as the store¬ 
keeper issues material to the kitchen, and 
he issues to the store-room supplies of 
liquors to be used in cooking, and wines 
and beer allowed to the cooks for their 
meals, where such is the rule, and charges 
the same to kitchen store-room like any 
outside merchant. He also has charge of 
the cigars and tobacco for the bar. He 
mixes and sends up from his cellars ready 
for use the champagne cups, claret cups, 
punches and the like required for the priv¬ 
ate parties taking place in the house, and 
sends the bill of the amount at once to the 
cashier to be charged in the guests’ bills. 

THE STEWARD AND THE DAIRY. 

The steward having in charge the fur¬ 
nishing of the table is responsible for the 
quality of the milk and for the furnishing 
of cream for the coffee, oatmeal and berries, 
etc., holding somebody else responsible to 
him. It is good for the hotel, its table and 
reputation when it has a regular dairy de¬ 
partment in connection with the proper 
conveniences and a dairy woman to attend 
to it. Where such is not the pleasant state 
of affairs the stewai-d establishes rules of 
management of the daily supply of milk 
furnished to the hotel to such effect that 
the cream from it will be secured for the 
coffee, making the purchase of cream so 
much the lighter expense, and allowing 


’S HANDBOOK. 

only the skimmed milk to be used for culi¬ 
nary purposes. Generally some hand can 
be found among those already employed 
who has a special aptitude for taking care 
of the milk. Sometimes it is the pantry 
girl, sometimes the coffee maker or the 
storekeeper. 

THE STEWARD AND THE DISH-ROOM. 

The steward is directly responsible (hold¬ 
ing somebody else responsible to himself) 
for the appearance of the crockery and 
glassware as it goes to table. The dishes, 
cups and saucers and all the rest must be 
bright and spotless, not showing marks of 
being smeared over with a wet and much 
used towel, but shining with the polish left 
by clear and very hot water, the glassware 
the same. The cream pitchers and water 
pitchers need special watching that the 
inside be well cleansed. The steward also 
watches the dishes as they pass him com¬ 
ing from the kitchen to see that there are 
no thumb marks and spatterings of gravy 
on the edges. 

He has to see that the dishes after wash¬ 
ing are covered up and effectively secured 
from flies and dust. 

He is responsible also for the dishes 
being kept warm, in a dish-heater or other¬ 
wise, and makes rules against the waiters 
and others destroying dishes by placing 
them to get hot upon the range. 

Accordingly he has shelves, closets, 
draining racks, warm closets, dry towels, 
mosquito net coverings, and all such ap¬ 
pliances made in the manner best adapted 
to the particular circumstances of his house. 

The dishwashers, pantry woman, scrub¬ 
bers, ice man and yard man are directly 
under the steward’s control, to hire and dis¬ 
charge them without reference to any 
heads of departments whatever. The 
better the hands he can secure in these 
menial situations the lighter will be his 
cares. 

THE STEWARD AND HIS WORKSHOPS. 

The basement story of some large hotels 
resembles a small factory where each trades¬ 
man is doing his part towards the comple- 





28 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


tion of some immense work, and a great 
number of trades it takes to keep up and 
supply the needs of a large hotel. In one 
of these rooms is a soap maker and assist¬ 
ants, and the necessary tanks, boilers, 
presses and drying room, all furnished 
with steam heat. The soap maker not only 
makes the common sorts for the laundry 
and for the floor scrubbers to use, but 
makes fancy toilet soap for the guests’ 
rooms, the name of the hotel stamped on 
each cake. In another room the hotel con¬ 
fectioner superintends the making of the 
jellies and preserves for the house, there 
being one or two assistants employed in 
these operations, and at other times in the 
same room the pickles, catsups, chow-chow 
and sweet pickles are made, and there is 
an occasional canning and bottling of fruits 
and vegetables from the hotel farm, when 
the ripening season is on. Further on the 
furniture repairer is at work with cabinet 
makers’ tools and glue, and a turning lathe 
and scroll saw are in motion close by; then 
there is the blacksmith’s shop adjoining the 
engine room, then the great engine that, 
perhaps, operates the elevator, keeps the 
laundry machinery in motion and whirls 
the ice-cream freezers, and another engine 
for the electric light. The meat-cutting 
room is very likely to be found in this base¬ 
ment story, and the oven where the loaf 
bread is baked, the pastry oven having to 
be upstairs and near the dining room as 
the kitchen is, for convenience of service. 
All of these are under the control of the pur¬ 
chasing steward except the engineers, and 
he must purchase fuel also for them. The 
fruit and sugar for the confectioner, the 
materials for the cabinet maker and for the 
soap maker, and whatever other trades 
may be there are all, in these largest estab¬ 
lishments, purchased by the steward, and 
the hands are accountable to him for their 
time and quality of workmanship, the same 
as in the eating and drinking departments 
above. 

Thus it is seen the steward, whether he 
be the man-of-all-work in the smallest ho¬ 
tels, or whether multiplied into three or 


four of one name in the largest, is the real 
operative hotel keeper. And yet some 
hotels have no steward! 

WHEN THE steward’s GOOD TIME COMES. 

Compare the actual duties of the thor¬ 
ough hotel steward, as they have been de¬ 
tailed, with the ideas of those who think 
they will, as stewards only have to go to 
market, buy something and make their 
own little “per cent.”, walk around the 
house a time or two and then sit down in a 
shady corner and doze the happy hours 
away, and the discrepancy between fact 
and fancy will be found so great as almost 
to take away the hope that truly efficient 
stewards ever can be made out of such poor 
material as usually offers. Nor does there 
seem to be much encouragement for more 
capable men to undertake duties so arduous, 
unless they will look further into it and 
behold the perfected hotel and its system 
of working departments running with the 
smoothness and certainty of a great factory, 
wheel within wheel, and he himself the 
directing head of all. A man cannot be 
steward of a hotel and give it a divided 
attention—it takes up all his thoughts. He 
cannot be steward and take an interest in 
politics, nor write a book, nor a play, nor 
carry on a business of his own down town. 
Stewarding is of all things a thoughtful 
occupation. Every individual that meets 
the steward in the hotel wants something 
—something to be purchased, to be re¬ 
membered, to be tried for and not secured, 
and tried for in another quarter. Every 
individual the steward meets has to be an 
object of his mental inquiry, has to be 
thought over in regard to duties and con¬ 
duct. Every hour of the day has its special 
claim upon the thoughts of the steward, 
from market hours to meal hours, train 
times, mail times and appointments. Every 
individual in the house blames the steward 
for something, either openly or covertly, 
from the scullions, who complain that the 
steward’s soap will not cleanse anything, 
that his matches will not light and his stove 
wood is wet and will not make a fire, 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


29 


through all the departments of fault-finders 
to the dyspectic guest in the distant room, 
who blames him for the butter or syrup or 
meat or bread not being to her liking, or 
for the failure to find a special something 
in market that was not there to find. 

Yet, spite of all this, a man who can 
govern himself and therefore can govern 
others, may have a moderately easy time 
as steward of a good hotel. He may be 
like that one of our model stewards men¬ 
tioned, as sitting in his office in the corner 
of the store-room within four feet of the 
kitchen table. He has telephone connec¬ 
tions in his office and speaking tubes to the 
different departments. His storekeeper's 
an able second to him and needs no watch¬ 
ing. His head cook is thoroughly efficient 
and reliable, can govern his kitchen and 
needs no watching, his pastry cook the 
same. The headwaiter is one of the best, 
is on the most friendly terms with the 
steward and cooks, and his well-trained 
waiters are assiduous in their efforts to 
please the guests and are free from all the 
faults which some waiters need watching 
for. The house is prosperous, the business 
is steady, each one employed does his or 
her part; there is no noise, no quarelling, 
no friction anywhere. 

This is the easy condition reached 
through the firm enforcement of rules and 
the steady weeding out of poor help and 
replacement with better, and the encourage¬ 
ment of well-doing by trifling promotions 
and judiciously bestowed words of praise. 
Then the steward takes his hour or two of 
recreation in the evening without the fear 
of a strike among the waiters, or of a 
desertion of cooks, or unmade fires and 
late meals to wear him out in the morning, 
and his thoughts run out to the pleasanter 
prospect of securing the first strawberries 
of the season or a new variety of fish for 
his next menu, and occasionally he finds 
time to bestow a pitying thought upon any 
man, who has not yet found out that the 
hotel he stewards for and his table are the 
best in the world. 


WHO SHALL BE STEWARDS? 

Every hotel being in want of a real 
steward, and only a small number being at 
present supplied with such, it is evident 
that, when the stewards do come to their 
own again, they will crowd out some¬ 
body that is now standing in their shoes. 
They will crowd out the “assistant man¬ 
ager.” There is no such a thing as an 
assistant manager, the man so called is 
occupying the steward’s place without do¬ 
ing the steward’s hardest work. They 
will crowd down the present crop of chefs 
and make head cooks of them. There is 
no such word as chef in the English lan¬ 
guage, nor in American-English. When a 
head cook becomes such an object of re¬ 
spect that he must be named in italic print 
and made conspicuous in that way all over 
a newspaper page, it shows that he is more 
than head cook, he is a grade above, and 
that grade in English is steward; in French 
also, it is stew-ard, the French chef is equiv¬ 
alent to American steward. The French 
cook is le cuisinier. The French chef-de¬ 
cuisine is the chief of kitchen , he is more 
than cuisinier, he is the managing, meat¬ 
cutting, carving, bill-of-fare writing, wine 
serving, kitchen-governing man, known to 
the American hotel system as steward. 
The French chef of to-day is the same as 
the maitre d' hotel of a century ago. 
Maitre d ’ hotel is literally master of the 
house; every French nobleman’s house 
used to be called hotel, his steward was his 
maitre d' hotel. We are accustomed to 
reading in English of Ude, Vatel, Marin, 
Bechamel, and others being cook to such 
a king or prince, but the French reading is 
not cook, but maitre d' hotel, steward—• 
something higher than cuisinier —the same 
thing, in fact, as our working and govern¬ 
ing stewards, who can invent dishes and 
show others how, if need be. The old 
term maitre d 5 hotel seems to have dropped 
out of use, the French now have only chefs 
—chiefs of the kitchen, with all that it im¬ 
plies. Jules Gouffe was called, and called 
himself, chef to the Paris jockey club, but 







30 


THE STEWARDS HANDBOOK. 


he was far more than a cuisinier —he was 
wine steward and an authority on wines; 
he was an authority on confectionery, 
canning and preserving, and on meat cook¬ 
ing as well. That is the sort of man he 
understood a chef to be—the same as a most 
accomplished working steward is with us. 
Are the head cooks of the generality of 
hotels that sort of men? If not ( why call 
them chefs in italic conspicuousness? If 
there are some such why not apply the 
English word and call them stewards? 
Chef is generally thought to mean cook. 
Steward is a title of higher rank, and 
those who*deserve it ought to wear it. 

PROMOTE THE GOOD COOKS. 

There is no school wherein a young man 
can learn thoroughly the masterful duties 
of the hotel steward but the live hotel itself. 
There are three departments in which the 
business may be learned. From waiter to 
headwaiter and then steward may do very 
well. From storekeeper to steward is 
better. From head cook to steward is best, 
and is in the natural course of promotion. 

A superior class of young men have 
come into the hotel cooks’ ranks of late 
years. They are no longer the corner 
loafers and drunken castaways, the ignor¬ 
ant, profane and obscene outcasts, who 
secure the good places in the hotels. Many 
of the cooks, who write to hotel papers, now 
write good business hands and can indite 
a good letter, they give evidence of having 
received a good common school education 
in most cases, in some instances they ex¬ 
hibit much more than that. These are 
adapted to become stewards. They have 
been attracted to the hotel cook’s occupa¬ 
tion by the liberal scale of wages offered 
for efficient men in that line, and they find, 
on trial, that the hotel cook is not a servant, 
but a master mechanic who has a chance 
of next becoming a superintendent or stew¬ 
ard. Some among these are total abstainers 
from strong drink, or else have control 
over themselves to resist excess. They 
are readers, and quick to detect ridiculous 
blunders in a bill of fare. Some of them 
cherish that principle of free citizenship 


which makes them scorn to sell their vote 
for a bribe, and the same principle will 
prevent their selling their independence 
to any trader for a bribe. They know the 
best article in market when they see it, 
and they want it wherever it can be found, 
and they wear nobody’s collar and buy no¬ 
body’s stale merchandise. These are the 
coming stewards. There is no other train¬ 
ing so good to make stewards as the cook’s 
training. A man who can govern the 
kitchen can govern all the rest of the 
interior, and the man who as head cook 
has had experience of all kinds of provi¬ 
sions and has practiced writing the bill of 
fare, is a steward almost already. Such 
men should be promoted to the position of 
the sort of steward that has been described 
in the foregoing pages; not promoted to 
the lower rate of compensation which 
stewards now generally are receiving, but 
promoted to still higher salaries than the 
chefs are getting, with all the honor, 
authority and responsibility of stewardship 
superadded. 

HOW STORES ARE ISSUED AND CHARGED. 

The proprietor of a hotel of small or 
medium capacity generally has no patience 
with the “red tape” methods of making 
requisitions, booking and checking and 
counter-checking, which he may hear are 
practiced in metropolitan establishments; 
he says: “if I didn’t think my man was 
honest I would not have him in my house; 
if he is determined to steal from me he 
will steal anyhow, and blank forms to fill 
out would have no effect; my way is to 
hire none but those whose honesty I have 
confidence in, and then I trust them im¬ 
plicitly and let them know that I tru>t 
them.” Those are the pleasant sort of 
men to deal with, and theirs are the houses 
where employer and employes are like one 
family. The strict rules are not for them. 
But take the big city hotel where some 200 
hands are employed and some among 
them leave every week and strange faces 
take their places, and the united family 
feature disappears and, instead, a system 
as hard and unsentimental prevails as any 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


31 


that governs a company of miners or mill 
operatives. No sympathy exists between 
the lowest grade of workers in the various 
hotel departments and employers, who 
each apper to be seeking to take advantage 
of the other whenever an opportunity 
occurs. 

In such houses all the doors are guarded. 
One bears the notice “No admittance to 
see the help under any circumstances.” 
Another savs, “You are not allowed to re- 
main in the store-room.” Another, “You 
will be discharged if you come in here 
without permission.” There the coffee- 
maker must count the number of cups he 
serves out and on no account give out a 
cup to any employd without express per¬ 
mission, the fruit room and pantry goods 
are all guarded with the same strictness 
and a watch is kept upon the hands em¬ 
ployed in them, the same as upon the 
coffee-maker. 

Even where a more cordial feeling exists 
the great number of employes makes a 
personal acquaintance impracticable, much 
less individual trust, and a strict and formal 
accounting in every department is adopted 
as a measure of the sternest necessity. 

The genial hotel keeper who objects 
most strongly to those “red tape” measures 
and is slowest to buy the necessary blanks 
and books, after once becoming accustomed 
very seldom abandons them. As to how 
much of them should be adopted in any 
given size of house, must of course depend 
upon the disposition of the proprietor and 
the degree of personal attention he gives 
the business. The two different styles of 
hotel store room have been already de¬ 
scribed. Apart from the question of which 
is the better, many of the largest and best 
conducted houses have no ro >m for a store 
room in connection with the kitchen, it 
must be in the basement because the plan 
of building did not allow for it upstairs. 
In such places the chief cook, the pastry 
cook, the headwaiter, the housekeeper, the 
chief clerk and, perhaps, the barkeeper and 
other heads of departments write a requisi¬ 


tion for the day’s or half-day’s supplies in 
a printed blank like this: 

Hotel Belvidere, Nov. 24, 188- 
Storekeeper deliver to bearer: 


Beef Loin, _ 

_i8 

lbs. 

“ Roast__ 

-18 

u 

“ Butts_ 

.2 I 

u 

Mutton _ 

. 6 

u 

Veal._ 


a 

Pork_ __ 

-18 

u 

Fish_ 

10 

a 

Butter, table_ 

- VA 

u 

“ kitchen.- 

_ 2 

/« 

Coffee.. __ _ 

- 314 

u 

Tea_ 

_ 4 oz. 

Syrup- 

i quart. 

Milk_ 

_ 4 galls. 

Lard_ 

_ 2 

lbs. 

OatmeaL __ 

- ''A 

44 

CL its___ 

- 4 

44 

Sugar cut loaf. _ 

- 4 

u 

“ powder_ 

“ help’s_ 

- 4 

a 

- 

u 

Mackerel_ 

. 10 

44 


Eggs__6 doz. 

__-__ 

John Smith, Chef. 

The blank book from which this is torn 
has a duplicate form, which the chief cook, 
or other requisitionist, fills out with the 
prices and total, as follows, and keeps it: 

Hotel Belvidere, Nov. 24, 188- 
Storekeeper delivered to bearer: 


Beef Loin_ 

18 lbs.< 

@190. 

3 

4 2 

“ Roast_ 

18 « 

8c. 

1 

24 

“ Butts_ 

21 “ 

9c. 

1 

89 

Mutton _ _ 

6 “ 

9c. 


54 

Veal_ 

16 « 

6j^c. 

1 

°4 

Pork._ 

18 « 

6J4c. 

1 

17 

Fish_ 

10 “ 

8c. 


80 

Butter, table __ 

VA “ 

30c. 

1 

05 

“ kitchen 

2 « 

20c. 


4 ° 

Coffee_ 

3 J 4 “ 

30c. 

1 

05 

Tea._- 

4 oz. @ 60c. 


15 

Syrup- 

1 qt. @ 60c. 


15 

Milk_ 

4 gal @ 30c. 

1 

20 

Lard__ 

2 lbs.( 

® IIC. 


22 

Oatmeal- 

iJ 4 “ 

4 c. 


6 

Grits__ 

4 “ 

3 C * 


12 

Sugar cut loaf- 

4 “ 

9c. 


36 

“ powder _ 
“ help’s_ 

4 “ 

9c. 


36 

2 J 4 “ 

6c. 


15 

Mackerel_ 

10 “ 

3 c. 


3 o 

Eggs- 

6doz@2oe. 

1 

20 




$16 

w 


John Smith, Chef. 











































32 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


It may be asked: “What does the chief 
cook want with the duplicate, when the 
goods have been entered in the storekeep¬ 
er’s books before he receives them?” The 
answer is, it is a part of the unsentimental 
system of making one employe act as a 
restraint and a check upon another. The 
w£ ters on watch cannot close up and leave 
the dining-room until the missing knife or 
spoon has been found or charged up to 
some delinquent; the chambermaid cannot 
get a clean towel from the linen-room un¬ 
til she brings the dirty one to be exchanged 
for it. It has been shown how the steward 
becomes a check upon the cook and the 
storekeeper upon the steward, and now the 
cook, and indeed e ich other one who makes 
requisitions, becomes a check upon the 
storekeeper. 

The supposition acted upon is that the bar¬ 
keeper might send for five pounds of sugar 
and the storekeeper might enter it in his 
book ten pounds; or the cook might draw 
twenty pounds of meat and the storekeeper 
might enter it thirty and might then thiow 
five pounds of sugar and ten pounds of 
meat out of the window, without coming 
out short at the monthly stock-taking. 
Without looking as far as that, the cook 
keeps the duplicate accounts for self-pro¬ 
tection, because the steward will come to 
him at night and say, “Your bill to-day 
was twenty dollars more than yesterday; 
the proprietor will expect an explanation, 
do you know w'hat made the difference?” 
and the cook will want to know whether 
he has been subjected to an overcharge in 
the store-room and will look over his own 
account for that and the preceding day to 
see how it was, for it is to be observed that 
an unaccountable increase in the store-room 
bills fastens upon the cook the accusation 
of extravagance which he does not wish 
to incur. The pastry cook, baker, confec¬ 
tioner, pantryman and every other one 
who draws supplies is in the same position 
as regards their daily accounts, though none 
have such large amounts to answer for as 
the chief cook. 


THE STOREKEEPER MUST RISE EARLY. 

One of the most serious of the minor 
difficulties is connected with the issuing of 
supplies early in the morning. If the bakers 
and cooks get a late start, not only will 
the breafast be ill-cooked and short of some 
of.the dishes which the bill of fare promises, 
but they scarcely will catch up with their 
work during the whole day. The bakers 
want material to use at four o’clock in the 
morning, the subordinate cooks need nu¬ 
merous things such as oatmeal, lard, pota¬ 
toes, cracker-dust, on’ons and potatoes to 
get their respective shares of the work of 
preparation done before the head cook 
comes. The requisitions for the several de¬ 
partments have been written out the night 
before, and when the storekeeper throws 
open the doors, there is a rush of work 
upon him, and while he is weighing, 
measuring and booking the supplies issued, 
a valuable half-hour or more is lost, per¬ 
haps, by each of a dozen hands, and if he is 
late himself the trouble is so much the more 
serious. It is contrary to good hotel rules 
and to good policy to issue the stores over 
night, the store-room is the place provided 
to keep such property locked up in. But 
to facilitate the morning issues the good 
rule is to have the requisitions from 
kitchen and bakery sent down over night, 
together with the pans and pails to hold 
the goods, the storekeeper fills the orders 
and books the amounts before closing up, 
and when the doors are opened next morn¬ 
ing the stores can be handed out without 
delay. 

STORE-ROOM HOURS. 

In every well regulated hotel there are 
four times in the day, periods of one hour 
each, when stores are issued, after that the 
store-room doors are locked, and it must 
be something very urgent to make them 
cpen again before the next regular time. 
This rule is necessary to prevent the store¬ 
keeper’s time being consumed by a con¬ 
stant doling out of trifles, it makes the 
cooks and others think what they are going 
to want and make one order of it. For the 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


33 


storekeeper has much else to do besides 
issue provisions as has been already shown, 
and must close his doors in order to do his 
book-keeping, receiving, auditing accounts 
and stock-taking. The times of issue are 
early in the morning and then just after 
each meal, or, rather, while each meal is in 
progress he issues for the next meal, be¬ 
cause it is absolutely necessary that he 
shall be in the store-room during meals, 
to be ready to issue special goods which 
may be unexpectedly needed for some par¬ 
ticular orders. 

THE STORE-ROOM ISSUE BOOK. 

The following pages show three differ¬ 
ent ways of keeping the issue book. The 
first is for a written book, an ordinary blank 
journal will answer, and the storekeeper 
will draw a line or two on each page as he 
uses it. The requisitions which come from 
the different departments repeat themselves 
every day in the great majority of items, 
only varying in the amounts called for, 
thus., the cook always call for the staple 
meats, fish, poultry, butter, lard, potatoes, 
etc., and the pastry cook or baker always 
repeats flour, meal, sugar, butter, lard, eggs 
and the other staple needs. Therefore the 
storekeeper when he uses a written book, 
takes advantage of leisure opportunities 
and goes several pages ahead and writes 
in their proper lines the names of such 
daily staples as is seen in the first specimen 
page, but leaves vacant lines to write in 
such articles as are only called for occasion¬ 
ally, then when the issues are made he 
only has to write the number of pounds of 
the staples instead of the whole line. The 
specimen pages here following show the 
rest. It will be observed that a comparison 
of the totals of the bills run up by any de¬ 
partment, can be had instantly by turning 
over the pages of the account book. 

The storekeeper of the medium size hotel 


from whose written pages the two follow¬ 
ing are copied, has not added the prices of 
articles as he went along, as the frequent 
repetition of the same items, and his thor¬ 
ough acquaintance with everything through 
his other duty of booking the purchases 
and examining bills and prices made such 
itemization unnecessary. He knew that 
the cost of kitchen butter was fourteen 
cents per pound, and set down the five-and- 
a-half pounds at seventy-eight cents, avoid¬ 
ing superfluous writing. The four separate 
entries of butter in the same line show that 
a requisition for that commodity was sent 
from the kitchen each time that the store¬ 
room was opened. 

As various forms are used in different 
hotels the specimens on pages 36 and 37 
are subjoined for the purpose, principally, of 
showing how numerous the articles are 
which are required to stock ^he storeroom 
of a large hotel. These pages are copies,, 
reduced in size, of the ready-printed requisi¬ 
tion lists of one of the largest hotels, a 
house capable of accommodating one thou¬ 
sand guests at once. It is not, however, a 
pattern to copy after as regards its interior 
organization. These printed lists are in¬ 
tended to serve the double purpose of 
saving the time of the chief cook and the 
baker, by giving them the least possible 
writing to do and to take away the excuse 
of forgetfulness and frequent sending to 
the storeroom by enumerating almost 
every possible thing that can be wanted. 

When these requisitions have been filled 
and the stores issued, the items and amounts 
are copied from them into a book as in the 
other case, at the storekeeper’s first oppor¬ 
tunity. Any party who may be concerned 
in the opening of a new hotel may find it 
profitable to go over these lists attentively 
before deciding that their storeroom is- 
completely stocked and ready. 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


34 


KITCHEN. 


Loins_ 

Roast, 16_ 

Butts, 15—14_ 

Lamb, 8—10_ 

Veal.. 

Pork, 12_ 

“ Salt_ 

Liver, 4_ 

Sausage, 8_ 

Hams, 14_ 

Tongues, 1_ 

Bacon, 5_ 

Pish, 10—12_ 

Mackerel, 8_ 

Onions, 1_ 

Cabbage, 10_ 

Parsley, 1_ 

Irish Potatoes, y 2 — 1 

Sweet “ 1_ 

Corn_ 

Tomatoes, 1—1_ 

Grits, 4_ 

Oat Meal, 1 y 2 _ 

Corn “ _ 

Coffee, y/ 2 —2y 2 - 

Tea, 2—4_ 

Rice, 4_ 

W. Sugar, 1—2—1 

Brown Sugar_ 

Butter, 1—1 y 2 —2—1 

Lard, 2_ 

Milk, 1_ 

Eggs, 10—5—10- 

Soap, 1—I-_ 

Soda, 1_ 


Friday , December 11 , 1688. 





Bro’t forward _ 

$22 

60 


00 


Chocolate_ 

OO 

I 

28 


Chickens, 20—16_ 

3 

20 

2 

71 


Apples_ . 


20 

I 

26 


Wine, y 2 ... 


15 


00 


C. Fish, 4 lb__ 


24 


78 


Oysters_ 


45 


00 


Potash, 4_ 


28 


30 


Salt, Brine, 15_ 


10 


64 


Kraut, 3_ 


24 

I 

54 


Turnips, l / 2 _ 


25 


20 


L. Peas, 5 _ 


35 


50 


Barley, iy 2 - 


12 

I 

54 


Turkeys, 4 _ _ 

1 

84 


2 4 


Macaroni, y _ 


10 


20 


F. Peas _ 


20 


18 


Oil, 1 _ __ 


13 


10 


C. Berries, 1_ _ _ 


50 

I 

i 3 


Mushrooms, 1 _ 


25 


40 


Candle, Hall, 1 _ 


02 


00 



$ 3 i 

3 i 


60 






06 






06 






00 





I 

20 



- 



18 






28 






25 






00 






78 






15 






23 


• 



5 

75 






10 


• 




05 




• 

$22 

69 



















































































THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


35 


Friday , December u , 1888. 


BAKERY. 


C. Meal, 8__ 


12 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

• H 


90 

Eggs, 6—3..~ 

2 

07 

Butter, 4_ 


60 

Lard, 3- 


21 

W. Sugar, 6_ 


4 2 

Pow’d “ 6_ 


So 

Brown “ 4_ 


26 

C.Loaf “ _ 


00 

Brandy, ^.. 


i 5 

Molasses, l / 2 _ 


10 

Apples, 5.. 


25 

Pumpkin, 1_ 


33 

Currants, 3_ 


24 

Salt, 12_ 


08 


$6 

28 


LAUNDRY. 



Brooms, 1- - 


25 

C. Paper, 6 - 


54 



79 

Recapitulation. 



Kitchen- 

$31 

3 i 

Bakery- 

6 

28 

D. Room- 

11 

03 

Laundry- 


79 

Office- 

1 

64 

Trf» _-_ 

1 

4 ° 

Total Issues - 

$52 

45 


D. ROOM. 


Nuts,3_ 


45 

Raisins, 3_ 


45 

Oranges, 5—3- 


96 

Apples_ 


20 

W. Sugar_ 


00 

C. L. “ 4—4—4_ 


90 

B. “ 2%—2% . 


29 

P. “ __ 


00 

S. Milk, 4—5- 

3 

08 y 2 

B. “ __- 


12*4 

Butter, y/ 2 — y/ 2 — y/ 2 - 

2 

62 

Syrup, 1 1 —. 


30 

Cheese, 1^-- 



Preserves, 3- 


33 

Crackers, 2_ 


12 

Bananas, 100- 

1 

00 


$11 

03 

OFFICE. 



Scrubbing Brush — -- 


15 

Blacking, 1- 


10 

Oil .-.. 


15 

Brooms, 1—1-— - 


5 o 

C. Paper, 6- 


54 

Soap- 


20 


$1 

64 











































































36 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CHIEF COOK’S REQUISITION. 


Store Room Keeper -will deliver the articles enumerated helorv by quantity ,_ 188 




ARTICLES. 




ARTICLES. 




ARTICLES. 

• • • • 

Lbs. 

Pan Fish. 



Pk. 

Cranberries. 



Lbs. 

Black Pepper. 

• • • • 

it 

Boiled Fish. 



Can. 

Green Peas. 




Red 

• • • • 

(( 

Broiled Fish. 



Pk. 

tt ti 



Oz. 

Mustard. 

• • • • 

Cans 

Oysters. 



Can. 

String Beans. 



Bot. 

Olive Oil. 

• • • • 

Qts. 

tt 



Pk. 

it ti 



Qts. 

Taragon Vinegar. 

• • • • 

Cans 

Clams. 



Can . 

Lima “ 



t< 

Apple “ 

• • • • 

Lbs. 

Roasting Beef. 



Qt. 

a tt 



a 

White Wine“ 

• • • • 

it 

“ Mutton. 



Bun. 

Asparagus. 



Pts. 

Wine — Catawba. 

• • • • 

No. 

Breast of “ 



Can. 

it 



ti 

“ Rhine. 

• • • • 

it 

Shoulder of Mutton. 



Doz. 

Green Corn. 



tt 

“ Port. 

• • • * 

it 

Rack “ “ 



Can. 

ti tt 



tt 

“ Claret. 


it 

Loin “ Veal. 



Pk. 

Tomatoes. 



it 

“ Sauterne. 


it 

Rack “ 



Can. 

it 



11 

Cordial—Anisette. 


ft 

Shoulder “ “ 



Pk. 

Cucumbers. 



ft 

“ Maraschino. 

• • • . 

ft 

Breast “ “ 



Bun. 

Radishes. 



it 

“ Curaeoa. 


ft 

Loin “ Pork. 



Can. 

French Peas. 



ft 

“ Chartreuse. 

• • • • 

ft 

Rack “ “ 



(• 

“ Beans. 



tt 

American Champagne. 

• • • • 

Lbs. 

Spare Ribs, “ 



tt 

Succotash. 



ft 

Brandy. 

• • • • 

it 

Corned Beef. 



tt 

Macedoine. 



tt 

Rum. 

• • • • 

Cans 

it it 



tt 

Okra and 'Tomatoes. 



Lbs. 

Raisins. 

• • • • 

No. 

Turkeys. 


• • • • 

Qts. 

Split Peas. 



tt 

Currants. 

• • • • 

ft 

Chicken Broilers. 


• • • • 

it 

Navy Beans. 



if 

Citron. 

• • • • 

ti 

“ Roasters. 


• • • • 

Pk. 

Apples. 



Oz. 

Lemon Extract. 

• • • • 

it 

Ducks. 



it 

Pears. 



it 

Almond. 

• • • • 

11 

Geese. 



Can. 

Salmon. 



ti 

Vanilla. 

.... 

Lbs. 

Liver. 



ft 

Crabs. 



Lbs. 

Flour. 

• • • • 

No. 

Kidneys. 


• • • . 

ti 

Lobsters. 



ti 

Corn Meal. 

. . • • 

t ( 

Ox Tails. 


« • • . 

tt 

Shrimps. 



it 

Cracker Meal. 

.... 

Lbs. 

Tripe. 



ti 

Green Turtle. 



tt 

Oat Meal. 

.... 

No. 

Calf’s Head. 



ft 

Mock “ 



tt 

Manioca. 

.... 

it 

Sweetbreads. 



it 

Sardines. 



it 

Cracked Wheat. 

.... 

it 

Calf’s Brains. 



tt 

Condensed Milk. 



tt 

Cornstarch. 

.... 

Lbs. 

Sausage. 



tt 

Desiccated Cocoanut. 



tt 

Gelatine. 

. • • • 

No. 

Beef Tongue Pickled. 


... 

a 

Peaches. 



ti 

Rice. 

• • • • 

it 

“ “ Smoked. 



tt 

Pears. 



ft 

Tapioca. 

• • • • 


“ “ Fresh. 


.... 

tt 

Apricots. 



ft 

Sago. 

. • • • 


Hams. 


.... 

tt 

Figs. 



it 

Farina. 

.... 

Pcs. 

Breakfast Bacon. 



tt 

Cherries. 



ti 

Grits. 

. . . . 

if 

Smoked Beef. 



t c 

P meapple. 



ti 

Barley. 

.... 

Doz. 

Salt Mackerel. 



Doz. 

Lemons. 



tt 

Italian Paste. 

. . . . 

Lbs. 

Salt Codfish. 


.... 

i t 

Oranges. 



tt 

Macaroni. 

.... 

Cans 

Codfish Balls. 



tt 

Bananas. 



ft 

Vermicelli. 

.... 

Doz. 

Scotch Herring. 


.... 

Jar. 

Anchovy Paste. 



tt 

Spaghetti. 

.... 


Holland “ 


. . 

Can. 

Mushrooms. 



Oz. 

Mace. 

• • • • 

Pks. 

Irish Potatoes. 


.... 

tt 

Russian Caviar. 



ft 

Allspice. 

. . , . 

it 

Sweet “ 


.... 

Bot. 

Truffles. 



it 

Cinnamon. 

. • • • 

ti 

Turnips, 


.... 

ft 

Gumbo File. 



it 

Cloves. 

• • • • 


Parsnips. 


• • • • 

ft 

Curry Powder. 



it 

Nutmegs. 

• • • • 


Beets. 


.... 

it 

Mushroom Catsup. 



ft 

Ginger. 

.... 

it 

Peppers, Green. 



it 

Walnut “ 



tt 

Whole Pepper. 

• • • • 


“ Red. 


• • • • 

it 

Capers. 



tt 

Sage. 

• • • . 


Carrots. 


. . , . 

Pt. 

Olives. 



tt 

Thyme. 

.... 


Squash. 


.... 

if 

Worcestershire Sauce. 



it 

Sweet Majoram. 

• • • . 

Doz. 

Egg Plant. 


.... 

Bot. 

Chow Chow. 



it 

Celery Seed., 

. . . . 


Cauliflower. 


.... 

ti 

Mixed Pickles. 



tt 

Bay Leaves. 

.... 

Pks. 

Salsify. 


.... 

if 

Gherkins. 



if 

Chives. 

.... 

Hds. 

*. abbage. 


• • • • 

Lbs. 

Currant Jelly. 



tt 

Chevril. 

.... 

Doz. 

Lettuce. 


. . . . 

ti 

Apple “ 



tt 

Burnet. 

.... 

Pk. 

Spinach. 


.... 

tt 

Cheese. 



Lbs. 

Y east Powder. 

.... 


Turnip Greens. 


. . . . 

Doz. 

Eggs. 



it 

Bi. Carb. of Soda. 

.... 


Kale. 


.... 

Qts. 

Milk, Fresh. 



No. 

Ball Potash. 

.... 

Bun. 

Parsley. 


.... 

Lbs. 

Butter. 



tt 

Matches. 

• • • • 

ti 

Mint. 


.... 

tt 

Lard. 



tt 

Twine. 

• • • • 

it 

Celery. 


. . . . 

a 

Brown Sugar. 



ft 

Paper. 

• • • • 


Leeks. 


• . 

a 

A “ 



ti 

Soap. 

.... 

ti 

Garlic. 


.... 

tt 

Pulverized Sugar. 



<t 

Candles. 

....1 


Cress. 


.... 

Pk. 

Salt. 


.... 

tt 

Pencil Tablets. 


- Chief Cook . 

Chief Cook is earnestly requested not to order in excess of actual wants, and to return all articles not 
used at the end of each meal to Store Room Keeper. He will also see that none of his subordinates 
make use of profane or obscene language while on duty. 

ONLY ECONOMICAL COOKS COMMAND GOOD POSITIONS. — 






















































THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


37 

OCEAN HOUSE BAKERY. 

BAKER'S AND PASTRY COOK'S REQUISITION. 


Flour_ 


Lbs. 

44 

Rye Flour.. _ 


Graham Flour_ 


44 

Buckwheat Flour_ 


u 

Corn Meal_ 


44 

Butter_ 


u 

Lard __ 


u 

A Sugar_ 


u 

Pulverized Sugar_ 


u 

s 

Syrup ... 


u 

Brown Sugar . 


u 

Corn Starch_ 


u 

Soda_ 


a 

Yeast Powder __ 


u 

Hops_ 


a 

Malt.. 


a 

Des. Cocoanut.. _ 


u 

Chocolate__ _ 


u 

Raisins_ 


u 

Currants, Layers __ 


u 

Currants, Seedless_ 


it 

Citron __ 


u 

Figs . __ 


it 

Gelatine__ __ 


u 

Apple Tellv_ 


it 

Quince Jelly_ 


u 

Peach Tellv___ 


a 

Raspberry Jellv_ 


u 

Mince Meat_ _ 


u 

Allspice.. _ 


u 

Cloves_ _ 


a 

Mace__ _ _ _ 


a 

Cinnamon, Ground __ 


u 

Ginger.. ___ 


a 

Fennel Seed__ 


u 

Shelled Almonds_ 


u 

Apricots_ _ ... 


Cans. 

Pineapple 


44 


Peaches, Pie_ 


Can 

44 

Peaches, Table_ 


Apples_ 


44 

White Cherries_ 


44 

Red Cherries_ 


44 

Gooseberries__ 


44 

Raspberries_ 


44 

Blueberries_ __ 


44 

Blackberries._ 


44 

Muscatel Grapes_ 


44 

Catawba Grapes_ 


44 

Pie Plant__ 


44 

Green Gages_ 


44 

Irish Potatoes _ __ _ 


Pks. 

44 

Sweet Potatoes__ 


Salt_ 


44 

Vanilla FlaVbr_ 


Qts. 

44 

Lemon Flavor__ 


Almond Flavor.. __ _ 


44 

Raspberry Flavor.._ 


44 

Pineapple Flavor __ 


44 

Strawberry Flavor 


44 

Rose Flavor__ 


44 

Molasses ___ 


44 

Sweet Wine_ 


44 

Dry Wine__ _ 


44 

Brandy___ 


4 ( 

Rum__ __ 


4 ( 

Condensed Milk._ 


Cans 

Sweet Milk__ _ 



Sweet Cream_ _ 


44 

Lemons_ __ 


Doz. 

Bananas_ _ 


44 

Oranges.___ 


44 

Farina__ 


Lb. 

Sago _ 



Tapioca_ 


44 

F'crprc 

--- 


Doz. 


Date, 


Baker and Pastry Cook. 


Pages 38 and 39 show, greatly reduced in 
size, leaves from the most elaborate form 
of storeroom account book. Blank books 
of this pattern with the headings, rulings 
and everything printed except, of course, 
the figures and unusual items, are copy¬ 
right property. The system is, however, 
only the same as that on pages 34 and 35 
carried up to the highest class of hotel 
with its more numerous departments, and 
the book large enough to admit the totals 


from the receiving books and meal count 
and steward’s daily memoranda. It will 
be seen that the day’s transactions are 
shown by this book at a glance, and the 
amount of stock in the storeroom is known 
at any time. There is a monthly stock 
taking, however, to verify these totals. 
Taken in connection with the previous 
explanations of the workings of the 
steward’s department this example ex¬ 
plains itself, and maybe studied with profit 



















































































































38 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


HOTEL BELVILEBE. 

Date, Friday , July 23 , 188 7. 



KITCHEN. 



21 lbs. 
38 « 

1 Bbl 

3 lbs. 
“ 

2 bars 

3 Dz- 
2 “ 

1 pk. 

1 “ 
12 qts. 
20 

1 lb. 

1 “ 

1 Can 
7 lbs. 

ipkg 

2 cans 

2 « 

7 lbs. 

8 “ 

2 cans 

Mutton __ 

2 

7 

3 

1 

1 

4 

3 

5 

63 

60 

50 

1 5 

12 

16 

00 

90 

75 

20 

96 

85 

43 

06 

19 

47 

10 

11 

40 

27 

25 

20 

81 

19 

Loin _ _ 

Potatoes. _ 

Rice __ 

Coffee__ 

Soap__ _ 

G. Corn_ _ 

Parsley_ _ 

S. Beans_ __ 

Beets_ 

Milk_ 

Chickens_ 

Tea _ 

Crackers __ * 

Tomatoes __ 

Gran. Sugar. _ _ 

Pearline__ 

S. Beans__ 

Peaches __ _ 

Lima Beans_ 

Pea Beans_ 

Corn_ . __ 

Ham and Butter_ 

Butter_ 

























































1 































































35 

2 4 



FRUIT PANTRY 



1 qt. 

Vinegar__ 


10 

2 cans 

Milk_ 


32 

8 qts. 

Fi gs-- 


56 


Fruit_ 

2 

80 















3 

78 


HELP’S HALL. 



5 l bs - 

“A” Sugar... 


35 

2 “ 

Gran. Sugar_ 


15 

3 cans 

Milk_ 


48 

2 lbs. 

Butter_ 


34 



1 

32 


PASTRY ROOM. 



2 lbs. 

Raisins__ 


3 o 

2 “ 

Currants_ 


12 

1 “ 

Citron_ _ 


08 

1 “ 

Gran. Sugar_ 


07 

6 “ 

Pul. « 


42 

6 cans 

Milk_ 


96 

1 bot. 

Vanilla_ 

1 

70 

ipkg 

Y east_ 


09 



3 

" 74 ” 


ENGINE ROOM. 




1 
























LAUNDRY. 



1 pkg 

Pearline_ 


10 

2 doz 

C. Pins_ 

• 

08 




Ts 


















































































































































THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


39' 


store :r,oo:m: accouetts. 



CIGAR STAND. 




WINE ROOM. 







Stock on hand, morning. 
Issues__ 













Sales__ 













Stock on hand, night_ 




BAR. 






Total Receipts forward. _ 
Receipts to-day_ 

2,318 

1S5 

56 

20 

654 Dz 
3,600 
8 lbs. 

Lemons__ 


60 


2 


Total _ 

2,503 

76^"" 

Coronado Cigars 


Pnl Snffar 


r6 


3 

l6 

Total Issues forward_ 

Issues to-day_ 

L58i 

47 

96 

76 


BILLED ROOM. 



Total_ _ 

1,629 

72 


Stock on hand, morning. 

736 

185 

60 

20 









Issues_ 

921 

47 

80 

76 











. 


Stock on hand, evening_ 

874 

04 


OFFICE. 



Morninsr Count__ 


uinmouw 

O 


37 

127 

34-8 





Actual Meal Count __ 

• 




Actual Average Cost_ 






** 







RECAPITULATION. 




HOUSEKEEPER 




35 

3 

3 

1 

24 

78 

74 

32 

1 cake 

2 bars 

Sapolio__ 


IO 

16 

Fruit Pantry__ 

Pnstrv P nom 

Soap__ 

Help’s Hall 


Cisrar Stand _ 


26 

~44 

08 


TURKISH BATPI 



Bar ...... 

3 

16 

Billiard Room _ _ __ 

Wine Room _ 







Barber Shop _ 



Turkish Bath_ _ 











Laundry _ 


18 

26 

Housekeeper_ _ 





Office 


BARBER SHOP. 



Engine Room_ 


oS 

Total Issues- 





47 

76 







-- 










































































































































40 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


HOTEL. BELVIDERE. 

Date, Friday, July, 2j, i88y. 


KITCHEN. 

1 




21 lbs. 

Mutton_ 

2 

63 



38 “ 

Loin_ 

7 

60 



1 Bbl. 

Potatoes_ 

3 

50 



3 lbs. 

Rice_ 


15 



Vz “ 

Coffee_ 


12 



2 bars 

Soap_ 


16 



3 Dz. 

G. Corn_ 

1 

00 



2 “ 

Parsley_ 


90 



1 pk. 

S. Beans_ 


75 



1 “ 

Beets __ _ 

1 

20 



12 qts. 

Milk_ 


96 



20 

Chickens_. _ 

4 

85 



1 lb. 

Tea._... 


43 



1 “ 

Crackers_ 


06 



1 Can 

Tomatoes ._ 


19 



7 lbs. 

Gran. Sugar 


47 



1 pkg. 

Pearline_ 


10 



2 cans 

S. Beans_ 


.11 



2 “ 

Peaches_ 


4 ° 



7 lbs. 

Lima Beans 


27 



8 “ 

Pea Beans. _ 


25 



2 cans 

Corn_ 


20 



_ _ _ __ 

Ham and Butter. 

3 

75 



1 tub 

Butter_ 

5 

19 




































































24 





FRUIT 

PANTRY. 





: qt. 

Vinegar_ 


10 



2 cans 

Milk_ 


32 



8 qts. 

Pigs- 


56 




Fruit_ 

2 

So 








78 





0 

HELP’S HALL. 


f 



5 lbs. 

“A” Sugar.. 


35 



2 “ 

Gran. Sugar 


L 5 



3 cans 

Milk_ 


48 



2 lbs. 

Butter . 


34 

1 

32 

1 




40 | 

34 



BROUGHT FORWARD. 

PASTRY ROOM. 

l 


2 lbs. 

2 “ 

1 “ 

1 “ 

6 « 

6 cans 
1 bot. 

1 pkg. 

Raisins_ 

Currants_ 

Citron 

Gran. Sugar 
Pul. “ 

Milk_ 

Vanille_ 

Yeast 

1 

30 

12 

oS 

07 

42 

96 

70 

09 

08 

ENGINE ROOM. 


— 

Sandpaper _ 













LAUNDRY. 


10 

08 

1 pkg. 

2 doz. 

Pearline_ 

C. Pins_ 

CIGAR STAND. 

— 

— 







" BAR. 

2 

60 

56 

6 y 2 Dz 
8 lbs. 

Lemons 

Pul. Sugar. 

BILLED ROOM. 



















OFFICE. 
























HOUSEKEEPER. 


10 

16 

1 

1 cake 

2 bars 

Sapolio_ 

Soap_ 

1 



4 ° 34 


3 74 


08 


18 


3 


16 


47 


26 

76 



































































































































































































THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


41 


STORE ROOM ACCOUNTS. 


BROUGHT FORWARD 

BARBER SHOP. 


TURKISH BATH 


Total Issues 


47 


47 


76 


76 


WINE ROOM. 


Stock on hand, mor¬ 
ning Issues_ 


Sales_ 

Stock on hand, night 


Total Receipts for¬ 
ward_ 

Receipts to-day_ 

Total_ 

Total Issues forward 

Issues to-day_ 

Total_ 

Stock on hand, mor¬ 


ning. 

o 


Add 

Stock on hand, eve¬ 


ning 


2318 

1581 


56 

96 


736 


60 


185 

47 


i 37 


20 


76 


44 


2503 

76 

1629 

72 

874 

°4 


Morning Count_ 

Average Cost_ 

Actual Meal Count- 
Actual Average Cost 


37 

127 

34.8 


A blank book of unusually large size is 
required for the elaborate method of 
keeping the store room accounts shown 
on preceding pages, in fact it is intended 
for both storekeeper and steward or 
manager to make entries; the former 
carries out his own part showing the 
amount of the daily issues etc., and the 
steward using ink of another color (to 
show which were his own entries, in case 
of dispute) fills in the number of meals 
served and the cost per head. As in such 
a case the storekeeper is almost sure to 
use a common memorandum book to 


make his entries in first, at the time of 
issue, and copy it into the big book after¬ 
wards the objection of “double trouble” 
will be made everywhere but in the lai'g- 
est hotels and another method is here 
offered, sufficiently simple for use in a 
written book yet more comprehensive 
than the first example. The “ recapitula¬ 
tion ”—which is for the proprietor to see 
at a glance—is here unnecessary, the totals 
appearing in a separate column plain to 
see, and these columns added separately, 
prove each other and reduce the chances 
of making rpistakes. 















































































































42 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CHANGING COOKS IN A LARGE HOTEL. 

This is the most serio-comical occurence 
that ever takes place in grand establish¬ 
ments. Some hotels make changes so 
often that all concerned get used to it, they 
get the mode of procedure down to a fine 
point; still the operation is always a critical 
one, attended with serious dangers, which 
can only be safely laughed at after the 
crisis is past. For everything in a hotel, 
even the very continuance of the business, 
depends upon the cooks, the lapse of even 
a single meal would shake up the house 
and bring consternation upon the people 
equal to a small earthquake; it is the diffi¬ 
culty of making the connections so close 
that the one intervening meal will not be 
dropped that makes the experience excit¬ 
ing. The determination to make a change 
is not often reached suddenly, but the com¬ 
plaints and dissatisfactions grow and in¬ 
crease through several weeks, perhaps 
months. There is no particular reason why 
a chief cook, who does not give satisfaction, 
should be retained except the fear of under¬ 
taking the delicate task of making a change 
of administration. There are always plenty 
of fine cooks ready to take employment in 
the hotels which will pay high enough 
salaries. So the complaints go on and 
grow for a while. There are bickerings 
and fencings, defiance and sharp words 
betwixt the chief cook and those in author¬ 
ity over him so constantly that a state of 
sullen enmity becomes the ordinary rule 
of their relations. All at once a change of 
temper takes place. The steward or man¬ 
ager or proprietor, as the case may be, be¬ 
gins to act very pleasantly toward the chef, 
they treat him to smiles—sarcastic smiles, 
but perhaps he does not detect the sarcasm. 
He has his own way undisputed and grows 
good-natured, too. It is wonderful then 
what peace and harmony pervades all the 
culinary departments; it seems impossible 
for anybody to do wrong, for no more 
faults are found and there is no more driv¬ 
ing. The fact is the steward and proprietor 
have been telegraphing and writing and 


have secured their new man, and try to 
practice such extreme secrecy about their 
movements, lest the chef should suspect 
the truth too soon, they nearly overdo it, 
and it is only the latters egotism that pre¬ 
vents him from seeing that something is 
going to happen, for all those around him 
are conscious that things are not what the} 
seem, and while they whisper about among 
themselves, not really knowing anything, 
they have nothing openly to say. Next, 
there are two or three strangers seen tak¬ 
ing back seats in the office or waiting room; 
they came on the morning train. Strangers 
of all sorts are arriving constantly, that is 
nothing, but, somehow, these do not seem 
to be of the usual sorts. One of them, at 
least, is well dressed, but they do not act 
like commercial travelers nor like men of 
leisure, the very hall boys observe that, and 
when it is seen that the steward is more 
concerned with them than the clerks are, a 
light begins to break and the whisperings 
about the house increase. Then the stew¬ 
ard takes the strangers, or at least the best 
dressed one of them, and shows him inside 
the dining room, then the breakfast room 
and ladies’ ordinary, then to the pantry, if 
that happens not to be in plain sight of the 
kitchen, then takes him back to the office, 
where they have a long talk. By that time 
the headwaiter knows all about it, although 
not a word has been said to him, for he 
knows that if it had been any other strang¬ 
er viewing the house out of curiosity, it 
would have been the proprietor or a clerk 
showing him around instead of the steward. 
But why so much secrecy ? Because the 
chef above all things hates to have it said 
that he was discharged, or that he was 
‘•rolled,” i. e ., pushed out of his place by 
another chef. He may not care for the 
loss of the situation, may even be glad of a 
rest, but he wants the first word and to say 
that he quit; and if he knows for certain 
that a new chef has come to the house, he 
will pull off his jacket instantly and make 
his second and third cooks do the same, 
will gather up his knives and all will go to 
the office and demand to be paid off. The 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


43 


steward wants the first word, too, but he 
thinks more about the ensuing meals and 
desires to let the new chef in at night when 
his opportunities for getting acquainted 
with his new surroundings will be better 
than between meals. Therefore he con¬ 
tinues the secrecy to the latest moment, 
waits until all the cooks have left the kit¬ 
chen in the afternoon, then shows the new 
chef the interior and takes him to see the 
ice chest, and as soon as supper or evening 
dinner is well ready, he informs the present 
head of the kitchen that his money is ready 
for him in the office and he will not be re¬ 
quired to prepare breakfast. Some men at 
such a juncture are kinder and better nat- 
ured than others and yield gracefully, that 
is, they act like gentlemen and throw no 
obstacles in the way of their successor. 
Common men, however, immediately go 
around and undo whatever they can that 
has been done in preparation for the next 
day. They throw out their soup stock, 
their salad dressings, their espagnole and 
other sauces, their aspics, their croquette 
preparations, their codfish balls, which 
were ready for breakfast; they stop the 
vegetable parers from their work, forbid 
the replenishment of coal and kindling 
boxes, in short do whatever they can think 
of in half an hour to make it hard for 
the fellow that comes after them. The 
pastry cook under the same circumstances 
throws away his yeast and neglects to set 
the sponge for the morning bread, hides 
away the baking powder, puts soda in the 
cream of tartar package, hoping to cause 
mistakes, puts salt into his wine jellies and 
custard mixtures, hoping the new man will 
use them, breaks the oven damper and 
stuffs rags into the flue. And yet the 
breakfast appears on the table the next 
morning the same as usual, and if any dif¬ 
ference is observed by the guests, it is very 
likely to be in the way of improvement, 
for the new hands are anxious and doubly 
attentive. 

The obstacles thrown in the way of the 
new chef do not set him back because the 
tricks are all so old, he knows them all 


himself. He takes no notice of what his 
predecessor has done, or what he has left 
behind him, but begins everything anew, 
even if he has to bribe some of the help to 
work late that night; and, if the former 
chef has left a can of his favorite sauce or 
a salad, just to give the new man some¬ 
thing to pattern after, the new man puts 
on a scornful smile and pitches it into the 
swill-barrel. The new pastry cook knows 
in advance all about the yeast trick, and has 
brought some fresh yeast in his pocket 
ready for the fray; he tastes and tests 
everything, walks straight to the chimney 
and pulls out the stuffing of rags, throws 
out the former pastry ccok’s treacherous 
compounds, which he knows are only 
snares to entrap him, and then goes iO 
work, and the day succeeding sees every¬ 
thing going on as usual; the crisis is past. 

HOW THE NEW CHEF BEGINS HIS DUTIES. 

Sometimes the change of cooks is made 
by common consent when the one wants 
to get away for reasons of his own, and 
there is then no secresy and no surprise, 
which must be regarded fortunate for the 
new man, for no matter how well experi¬ 
enced he may be, he finds the first day in a 
new situation a hard one, even when every¬ 
thing is left running on in its proper order, 
and so much the worse when the late in¬ 
cumbent has done all he can to make it hot 
for him. It is hard at first to find any article 
that he wants, he must find the thing by 
searching in various places instead of being 
able to lay his hand upon it from habit with¬ 
out thinking, and then his kitchen hands are 
strange to him. However, he has his own 
second cook, perhaps one or two more 
whom he knows. Beginning at night, he 
first makes sure of his fireman, finding out 
if he can be relied upon to have the fires 
made early enough, and he sees to it with 
his own eyes that the fuel is good and 
easily reached. He divides the breakfast 
work in his own mind into three divisions, 
the meats, the fries and the vegetables. 
The meats include everything that is to be 
broiled, also the eggs, and he sees whether 






44 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


the small meats are ready cut and. in the 
refrigarator, if the whole list which appears 
upon the breakfast bill of fare is there, or 
whether only part is ready; then he pro¬ 
ceeds to cut or have cut and prepared the 
missing articles, which may be chickens, 
fish to broil, or ham. The fries include 
fish, oysters in all ways, fried potatoes, chip 
potatoes, fried mush, codfish balls, breaded 
cutlets, liver and tripe. The vegetables 
are not really vegetables, but are miscel¬ 
laneous dishes grouped together that way, 
because prepared in part by the vegetable 
cook; they are oatmeal, cornmeal mush, 
grits, stewed potatoes, hash, fried onions, 
stewed tripe. Some of these things the 
vegetable cook carries out complete, others, 
such as the stews, that cook only prepares 
by cutting up ready and the second cook 
finishes. The meat division belongs to the 
second cook, though he probably will have 
the meat cutter, or some other, to do the 
broiling, he having to dish up orders and 
do the most of the egg cooking; his first 
part of getting ready for breakfast is the 
making of the stews and assisting with the 
frying of cutlets and breaded fish, the third 
cook being busy getting enough Saratoga 
chips and French fried potatoes along with 
other fries to keep ahead of the orders. 
The head cook’s duty is to “make” his eggs, 
as the kitchen phrase is, that is to cook 
them as ordered, but this he only does dur¬ 
ing a rush of orders, and after seeing that 
every thing is running on right and nothing 
has been forgotten, he leaves the front of 
the range and puts in every minute he 
possibly can in preparing his soups and 
entrees for lunch and dinner. His ability 
to run the kitchen is according to his abil¬ 
ity to remember everything that must be 
done and every item of material that will 
be required to work with; he makes out 
his requisition over-night, and it will be 
well for him, if he does not forget some¬ 
thing of small value seemingly, yet quite 
indispensable, and it is no less important 
for him to know which one of his half 
dozen assistants will do each particular 
thing, and to give them their orders accord¬ 


ingly. After the first newness is over, 
each of these hands will know the part he 
or she has to perform, and will do the same 
every day, but at first all the strain is upon 
the head cook. 

The first breakfast is, however, only half 
his cares; at the same time of survey of the 
breakfast meats over night, he also sees 
what there will be for dinner, plans the 
bill of fare, if the steward has not planned 
it for him, and looks about for the where¬ 
withal to make his first dinner in the house 
a credit to himself, and then he must see 
that whatever will require the most time is 
begun first, and must plan the work of 
each one of his helpers. His second leaves 
the breakfast work next morning like him¬ 
self, and begins the work on lunch and 
dinner, and side by side they both do the 
c ame work, boning veal or fowls, stuffing, 
larding, barding, cutting meat small, cook¬ 
ing, pressing, cooling and re-cooking sweet¬ 
breads, mincing mushrooms, onions, 
parsley, cutting truffles in dice, boning, 
pressing and afterwards cutting up the 
cooked calfs head for soup, making cro¬ 
quettes, filleting fish, cutting croutons of 
bread, preparing salads, making sau- 
finishing the soups; and the second coo^ 
as his special duty makes the sweet entrees, 
while the third or roast cook roasts and 
boils the plain meats, the vegetable cook 
prepares all the vegetables, except such 
things as breaded and fried egg-plant, and 
another cooks meat for the hands. 

When the sixty or eighty different oper¬ 
ations have been merged into the thirty or 
forty dishes, which constitute the meat 
cook’s part of the great hotel dinner and 
the meal is about ready, he takes a bill of 
fare which has just come from the printers, 
calls the half dozen principal helpers to 
him and reads off each item, every accom¬ 
paniment, every sauce, every form of veg¬ 
etables, and asks if that is ready. If any¬ 
thing has been forgot, they make haste to 
get it ready yet before the doors open. 

When the dinner is about over, and the 
quantities have proved to be just right, and 
no person has been denied anything he 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


45 


called for, the headwaiter steps into the 
carving room and passes some pleasant 
remark to the steward; the steward strolls 
over to where the new chef stands, makes 
some pleasant remark to him and they 
shake hands. Soon after the chef finds 
most of his assistants near him, and- sud 
denly he says: 

“Well, boys, how was that for a dinner?” 

“Went off first rate,” says one cautiously. 

“A pretty good dinner,” says another, 
with slowness and great emphasis on each 
syllable. 

“Well I should say it was!” exclaims the 
chef, with more emphasis still, “consider¬ 
ing it was the first day, too! Boys, there’s 
a bottle of beer apeice for you in the basket 
under my desk—there’s a bottle or two of 
Rhine wine there, besides, if any of you 
would rather have it, help yourselves.” 
And the chef goes to his room. 

THE DRINKING HABITS OF COOKS. 

While there are and can be only a very 
few hotels of the largest size and highest 
style, what few there are have great in¬ 
fluence in setting the fashions in interior 
management, and many among the vast 
number of smaller hotel proprietors, as 
well as their employes, have had unpleasant 
experiences of the slighting manner, the 
real contempt with which the cooks from 
those larger hotels speak of the smaller and 
less pretentious houses, because of their 
denial of certain privileges and their greater 
regard to expenses. But one of the cus¬ 
toms of the largest hotels, is a decidedly 
pernicious one and brings back punishment 
upon the employer by increasing the habit 


of intemperance among their employes, 
that is the custom of serving out regular 
rations of liquor and an almost unrestricted 
issue of wines and liquors on demand, 
ostensibly for cooking purposes. It looks 
generous in the hotel-keeper, but it is not 
really so, but the cooks secure the conces¬ 
sion through their united demands. When a 
cook is wanted, telegraphed for, written 
for, as shown in a preceding page, he first 
inquires about the amount of salary offered 
and next stipulates how much liquors and 
wines per day shall be allowed to the kit¬ 
chen. When he gets to work, first thing 
among the morning issues from the store¬ 
room comes a quart of whiskey, which he 
divides among the hands, taking two shares 
for himself. At the cooks’ nine o’clock 
breakfast, instead of coffee they each drink 
a pint of cheap California wine, or, if they 
do not like that, they are allowed a pint 
bottle of beer, and at least once or twice 
more during the day wine or beer is served 
out again, while the chef, as well as head 
pastry cook, has a supply of various liquors 
always at hand. They would be more 
than human, if they could avoid excess 
under such circumstances. But cooks must 
drink something, theirs is a thirsty occu¬ 
pation. They do not need the whiskey 
early in the morning, and that is the most 
harmful of all their allowances, but let the 
hotel keeper or steward act as their friend, 
give them the needed bottle of weak wine 
or cool and harmless beer in the heat of 
the day when the work is hard, and never 
allow bottles of rum or other liquors to be 
issued at all. He should pour the wine in 
the soup and brandy or rum in the sauce 
himself. 





HOW TO WRITE THE BILL OF FARE 


With a great many persons occupied 
daily in the preparation of the hotel din¬ 
ners, the composition of the bill of fare is 
the one literary effort of their life, it is 
their first timid step upon the threshold of 
the temple of belles lettres , where they be¬ 
gin to use the strange words of a strange 
language and watch for the effect to see 
whether they are understood and whether 
they have said them aright. The words 
and the language and the whole operation 
of forming the bill of fare, are strange for 
the reason that our people generally are 
not “gastronomically educated,” as the 
latest phrase has it; neither the great mass 
of the people, who come to the hotels, nor 
many of those whose business it is to cater 
to their wants, have ever studied the sub¬ 
ject of the composition of various dishes 
and their proper names, or thought much 
about the correct order of serving them, 
while still it is felt that a code of gastrono- 
mical proprieties must have been form¬ 
ulated somewhere in the upper regions of 
culture, and every sort of wiiter of the bill 
of fare tries to show his acquaintance with 
it according to his light. In looking over 
a promiscous collection, especially of hotel 
dinner bills, it is not difficult to pick out 
the bad examples which show how “fools 
rush in where angels fear to tread,” and 
also the specimens which have emanated 
from a student of the subject who feels a 
proper pride in his performance, because 
he understands the motives which lie at 
the bottom; the great majority are, how¬ 
ever, of the sort that are written as a task 
which must be performed daily by some¬ 
body and bear no marks of the pleasure 
which that task possibly may bring, when 
the reasons for every line and every sort 
of arrangement are thoroughly compre¬ 
hended. 


THE AMERICAN HOTEL DINNER BILL THE 
STANDARD. 

Premising, for the information of the 
learner, that there are other forms of the 
bill of fare suitable for private parties, 
formal banquets and for club dinners, it 
may confidently be asserted that the pre¬ 
sent general form of bill in use at the hotels 
of the United States and Canada is the best 
for the purpose of the regular dinner or 
table d ’ hote system, and the most perfect 
which could be devised, both for the display 
of culinary proficiency and for the allow¬ 
ance of the freest choice to the dinner. 
This statement is made for the benefit of 
those who may chance to pick up speci¬ 
mens of old-country bills divided into 
“First Service—Second Service,” or “ Pre¬ 
miere Service — Deuxieme Service — Troi- 
sieme Service ,” and the several different 
forms adopted by various clubs for the 
sake of singularity, as well as the specimens 
of dinners served in courses, all of them 
forms not suited to the requirements of the 
hotel dinner and therefore not to be 
adopted unawares in the effort for improve¬ 
ment. 

The present form has, so to speak, formed 
itself in accordance with the tastes and re¬ 
quirements of the people for whom hotels 
exist, the arrangement of dishes is accord¬ 
ing to their home-formed habits; by which 
is meant that our people take meats and 
savories but once in the meal and do not 
take meats again in the “second service,” 
but only sweets and fruit. 

THE HOTEL PRESS AND RECENT IM¬ 
PROVEMENTS. 

The good taste and good sense which 
characterizes the hotel bill of fare in general 
is largely attributable to the course of teach¬ 
ing and criticism of the hotel newspapers 
for, up to a few years ago, a vast proportion 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


47 


of the bills were very ridiculous affairs and 
the greatest mostrosities among them were 
those which they that wrote them thought 
were the best. It is only about a dozen 
years since hotel papers came into exist¬ 
ence. Before that time there were no 
sources of information on such subjects 
but a few antiquated cook-books which 
taught by-gone styles, and the mixed bills 
of the cooks of various nationalities em¬ 
ployed in the larger hotels. These showed 
lists of dishes enough and good ones, of 
course, but without the translations of their 
names into plain English and the statement 
of the reason for their appearing in any 
particular order of succession, such exam¬ 
ples did more harm than good. The sub¬ 
sequent intelligent discussion of the 
questions led to such favorable results that 
there is no diffculty now in the learner 
finding a riliable pattern since the bill of 
almost any good hotel may be taken as a 
model, while the main arguments on the 
various points may be found in the hotel 
books now in existence and need not be 
gone over again in this place. Some minor 
questions still arise, however, which will 
be briefly stated in order to a full under¬ 
standing, it being noted in advance that a 
perfect uniformity in the bills of all the 
hotels would be very undesirable; we can 
usually select our favorite newspapers from 
a pile of papers through some individuality 
of appearance, their type, their make up, 
their color, their headings or absence of 
them, and we should value this stamp of 
individuality just as much in hotel bills of 
fare as in newspapers. 

BILL OF FARE OR MENU. 

Strictly speaking these words are not of 
quite the same significance. The menu is 
the fare, the bill of fare is to tell what the 
fare consists of; the menu is the “lay out,” 
the bill of fare is the itemized description 
of the “lay-out,” as if one should say, “this 
is my library; this is the catalogue of my 
library.” People meet and discuss or enjoy 
the menu or fare, but they do not discuss 
the bill of fare. Nevertheless, by the 
elasticity of language, menu is used in the 


same sense as bill of fare, and either word 
may be chosen wdth propriety; menu is 
thought to be the more stylish of the two 
and is oftenest preferred now to head the 
dinner list. In this connection it may not 
be out of place to remark that cuisine also 
has a double sense, meaning both kitchen 
and cooking; la cuisine is the kitchen, but 
when it is said that any hotel is noted for 
its excellence of its cuisine it implies the 
other meaning of the word—cooking. 
Many hotels reject the use of both menu 
and bill of fare, and head their bills with 
the word “Dinner.” Others, again, follow 
the mothod of the annexed example and 
make the announcement of table d ’ liote 
(which is equivalent to our plain American 
“regular dinner”) do duty instead of either 
term. 

In regard to the examples of bills of fare 
here to be found, it must be explained that 
they are taken up by chance from a very 
large collection and are neither selected as 
models or otherwise, but are only the first 
that came to hand which happen to illu¬ 
strate the particular point under consider¬ 
ation. 

Metropolitan Hotel Restaurant. 

Thursday , February 4, 1886. 

TABLE D’ HOTE 5 TO 7 O’CLOCK 

INCLUDING WINE, $1.00. 

Oysters on half shell 

Consomme vermicelli Mock turtle h la Fran$aise 

Boiled halibut, lobster sauce 
Potatoes Hollandaise 

Smoked tongue with green kale 

Fricassee of chicken wings with oysters 

Sauerkraut k la Francfort au jus 

Fresh beef tongue braisee, sauce piquante 

Spaghetti lie a la Napolitaine 

Ribs of beef Turkey, cranberry sauce 

Salad 

Stewed tomatoes Mashed potatoes 

Boiled rice Peas 

Bread pudding, wine sauce 
Assorted cakes Strawberry ice cream 

Assorted fruit 

Medoc 

French coffee _ English cheece 

The very choicest selection of Cigars to be found in the 
City, fcr sale in Cafe. 

JOHN M. OTTER, Manager. 











48 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


HEADINGS OR NO HEADINGS? 

The above very excellent bill is strictly 
in accord with the opinions and teachings 
of the hotel press, unless an exception be 
taken to the cigar line at the bottom, and 
particularly so in regard to the small num¬ 
ber of dishes, the absence of “relishes,” 
and the absence of headings. Here is an 
example from a hotel in the extreme South, 
but under New York management and 
running at four dollars a day, which uses 
headings and includes “relishes,” and there 
are good reasons on this side of the ques¬ 
tion, too. 

D X 1ST UST E R 

FROM 6 TO 8. 

MONDAY ; MARCH 16, 1885. 

SOUP., 

St. Germaine. Consomme Printanier Royal. 


FISH. 

Boiled Sea Bass, Sauce Hoilandaise. 

Potatoes Parisienne. 


RELEVE. 

Corned Beef and Cabbage. 


ENTREES. 

Becassines en Salmi a l’Ancienne. 

Fricandeau of Veal, Bourgeoise. 

bpaghetti au Gratin, Piemontaise. 

Chocolate Fritters, Vanilla Sauce. 


ROAST. 

Ribs of Beef. Ham, Champagne Sauce. 
Young Turkey, Stuffed. 


GAME. 

Brant with Jelly. 


„ „ VEGETABLES. 

Boiled Potatoes. Mashed Turnips. 

Green Peas. Baked Sweet Potatoes. 


RELISHES. 

Horse Radish. Gherkins. White Onions. 
Chow-Chow. Lettuce. Olives. 


PASTRY AND DESSERT. 

Steamed Raisin Pudding, Brandy Sauce. 
Apple Pie. Pound Cake. Chocolate Slices. 
Jelly Drops. Lemon Sherbet. 


Apples. Oranges. Asorted Nuts. Raisins. 
Roquefort, Edam and Orange Co. Cheese. 
Crackers. 

COFFEE. TEA. 

-o- 

Waiters are furnished with Wine Cards. 

-o- 

All Dishes not on the Bill of Fare, and all Fruit or 
Lunch taken from Table will be charged extra. 

Guests having friends to meals will please register 

at office. 

Breakfast from 7 to 10; Sunday from 8 to 11. 
The writer of these lines prefers to use 
headings, always writes his bills that way, 


considering that the hotel is an inn, a car¬ 
avansary where people come as strangers, 
and the ways of the house should be made 
as plain as possible for them. Very few of 
these transients are “gastronomically edu¬ 
cated,” few of them, comparatively, have 
ever ordered from a bill of fare, and with a 
waiter standing by waiting for them to 
speak, they have trouble enough to order 
their meal intelligently even with the help 
of plain headings; the bill without headings 
must seem like a mass of dishes thrown 
together without order and without a pur¬ 
pose. Witness the following bill without 
headings, divisions or spaces, as it is found 
in a New York hotel paper. Possibly the 
original was better looking. 

yiCTORrA HOTEL. 

* Blue Point Oysters 

Creme a la Windsor Consomme Napolitaine 
Fondu of Cheese on Toast French Sardines 

Saucisson D’Arles Celery Queen Olives 
Boiled Redsnapper, Sauce Fiamande 
Potatoes Naturei Sautees au Beurre 
Turkey Boiled, Celery Sauce Smoked Jowl with 
Sauerkraut Loin of veal stuffed, Sauce 
Andalouse 

Sirloin of Beef larded a la Lithuanienne 
Lamb Chops Farandale 

Rice Croquettes with Apricots 
Sherbet au Citron 

Ribs of Beef Capon, Giblet Sauce Saddle of 
Mutton Spare Ribs of Deerfoot farm pork, 
Apple Sauce Red head Duck with 
Orange Marmalade 

Salads—Chicken Mayonnaise Lobster Potato 
Lettuce 

Pate de Foie Grass Truffe Boned Chicken with 

Jelly 

Plain Lobster Tongue Etc 

Boiled Potatoes Mashed Potatoes Boiled Onions 
Rice Peas Beets Spinach Baked Sweet 
Potatoes Squash Fried Oyster Plant 
Spaghetti Italienne 
Rice Pudding, Port Wine S >uce 
Cocoanut Pie, Green Gage Pie, Almond Slices, 
Gateaux Boston Cream Cakes Wine Jelly 
Vanilla Ice Cream. 

Nuts Raisins Figs Fruits 
American, Rouquefort, Brie and Neufchatel Cheese 

cafe 

The reason given for omitting headings 
from the bill of fare is that it is more 
“tony” to do without them Their absence 
implies a compliment to the guests by the 
supposition that they are “gastronomically 
educated,” that they do know the proper 
order of dishes and the locality in which to 
look for them without any guiding signs. 
It will be seen, then, that the bill without 
headings is proper for select family hotels, 
but not btst for commercial hotels, railroad 
depot hotels, nor for the generality of re - 






















THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


sort houses. And if the bill without head¬ 
ings is desired in such establishments, the 
dishes should be few as in our first sample 
menu, so that they may be comprehended 
at once and the dinner selected with ease 
even by a stranger to hotel customs. 

WHAT SHOULD THE HEADINGS BE? 

The ordinary headings are soup, fish, 
boiled, roasts, entrees, vegetables, cold 
dishes, pastry, dessert. That is for com¬ 
mon life without any pretentions to style, 
and the order of arrangement is as the 
people generally want it, in that order they 
take their dinner. And here it may as 
well be explained that pastry is not prop¬ 
erly called dessert, although it is the gen¬ 
eral custom to apply the term dessert to all 
the sweets which constitute the second 
service of the dinner. “Pastry and dessert” 
is the most convenient foim as it admits 
everything, but “dessert” alone means 
fruit, confectionery, very light sweets and 
ices. But where something above the or¬ 
dinary is desired, when the meals and the 
menu are intended for something above 
the run of common life, more divisions 
appear and more headings. The first 
example menu and the second are alike in 
one particular, they make the “Boiled” 
appear before the “Entrees” and the 
“Roast” after them, and the second uses 
the word “Releve” instead of “Boiled,” as 
would be the case in the first example were 
headings used in it at all. This arrange¬ 
ment is immaterial and merely a matter of 
literary taste, as the people for whom the 
dinner is prepared nearly always take all 
their meats, whether boiled, roasted, entrees 
or game, at one and the same time, and the 
vegetables of their choice with them. If 
the third example menu were properly 
strung out and the headings inserted, it 
would show cold hors d’oeuvres, soup, hot 
hors d’oeuvres, fish, releves, entrees, sorbet, 
roasts, game, salad, and cold dishes, veg¬ 
etables, pastry, dessert, thirteen headings 
besides cheese and coffee, which usually go 
as distinct items without headings, but 
which nevertheless make up the thirteen 


4<k 


courses into which such a dinner can be 
divided. The Victoria menu is faulty in 
respect to mixing the hot and cold hors 
d'oeuvres or side dishes. Oysters raw, al¬ 
though somewhat of an American specialty, 
are but one of the cold hors d'oeuvres , or 
appetizers, preliminary to the meal and no 
more entitled to stand alone than the 


others, “French Sardines — Saucisson 
d’Arles—Celery and Queen Olives,” which 
all strictly belong in the same place as the 
oysters. The hot hors d'oeuvres belong 
where the one in that bill appears; it is the 
“Fondu of Cheese on Toast,” or Welsh 
rarebit. All of this style is, however, felt 
to be very cumbersome; it is difficult to 
handle all these formalities in strict pro¬ 
priety and the sensible thing is to drop the 
superfluities—there is no use for the hot 
hors d'oeuvre, except in a formal course 
dinner, and that being omitted, such side 
dishes as sliced tomatoes, olives and celery 
are placed after the soup instead of it. 

Complimentary banquet given by Mr. Aider- 
man Whitehead to Major and Sheriff Davies and a 
large number of the inhabitants of Cheapward, at 
the Guildhali Tavern, London, on the 26 of October. 
The catering was up to Messrs. Ritter & Clifford’s 
best form, and the menu as follows: 


Haute Sauterne. 


HORS D’CEUVRES. 
Sardines. Prawns. Caviare.- 
Foie Gras. Olives. 


Turtle Punch. 


Clear Turtle. Thick Turtle. 


Soles a la Normande. 
Stewed Eels en Matelotte. 
Turbot, Hollandaise and Tartar 
Sauces. 

Fried Smelts. 


Vino de Pasto. 
RudesheimerBerg. 
Irroy, 1SS0. 

Veuve Clicquot, 
1S80. 


Lobster Cutlets. 
Sweetbreads with Truffles. 
Salmi cf Widgeon. 

Roast Turkey Poults. 

Ox Tongue. 

Boiied Capons and Cumberland! 
Hams. 


Piper’s Tres Sec. 

_ 1SS0. 

Perinet et Fils, 
j88o. 

Pommery et Greno, 
1880. 


Claret. 

Chateau la Rose. 


Saddle Mutton, French Salads.. 
Braized Calves Head. 


Wild Ducks. Partridges. 
Mushrooms. 


German Puddings. 
Curasao Jelly. 
Maraschino Jelly. 
Chartreuse of Grapes. 
Swiss Pastry. 


Sandeman’s Old 
Port. 


DESSERT. 

ICES. 

Lemon Whiter. 
Raspberry Cream. 
















so 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


If headings are used and hors d'oeuvres 
appear under their proper head, they are 
not designated as hot or cold, however, for 
their place in the bill shows of which de¬ 
scription they are, as the bill of fare on the 
preceding page illustrates. Had this been 
in the United States the first section would 
have been “Blue Point Oysters,” and there 
might have been a total omission of all the 
other cold hors d'oeuvres, just as in this bill 
there is a total omission of the vegetables, 
which of course they had, as not worth 
mentioning. 

To be fair, however, here is an example 
where both classes of hors d'oeuvre are 
printed after the soup, the “Bouchees 
Viennoises” being Vienna patties, a hot 
hors ’ oeuvre, as inost of those small trifles 
are, which in our American bills are classed 
as entrees. 

Menu of a dinner served at the Continental, Paris, 
being a banquet given to Hon. Geo. Walker by the 
Stanley Club. The dinner was of thirty covers, and 
• this is what they had: 

MENU. 

Consomme aux pointes et quenelles bisque. 

Hors d’ceuvre varies. 

Bouchdes Viennoises. 

Turbot, sauce crevettes et Holiandnise. 

Poulardes it la Chevaliere aux truffes. 

Langouste a la Parisienne. 

Sorbet Jamaique. 

Faisans etperdreaux sur croustades. 

Salade. 

Pates de foie gras de Strasbourg. 

Petits pois it la financiere. 

Bomb Glacee vani le et abricots. 

Gateau Havana is. 

Corbeilles de fruis. Bonbons. 

Petits fours. 

Xeres. Chateau Durcc. Chateau Clemens. 
'Pommard. Bacherolles. Medoc en carafes. 

Champagne. Heidsieck. Monopole. 

Cafe et Liqueurs. 

As, perhaps, not one in ten thousand in 
this country understand French, as applied 
to dishes in a menu, and as these articles 
are intended to be informatory, the above 
may be translated thus: 

Soups —clear soup with Asparagus points 
and the thick soup which we call cream a 
la duchesse. Hors d’ceuvres — various 
(varies), as, for example, in the London bill 
preceding. Hors d’ceuvre —(hot) Vienna 
patties or bouchees au salpi^on. Fish— 
turbot, with choice of two sauces, shrimp 
and hollandaise. Entrees —chicken fried, 
truffle sauce, sea crayfish or small lobster 
:in Parisian style. Sorbet —with Jamaica 


rum, perhaps a new name for Roman or 
rum punch. Game —pheasants and par¬ 
tridges on ornamental fried toast. Salads 
—not specified what kind. Raised pies of 
foie-gras (Strasbourg fat goose liver), green 
peas in sauce, moulded vanilla and apricot 
ice creams, Havana cake, baskets of fruit, 
candies, small cakes, wines, coffee and 
liqueurs. 

piFTH AVENUE HOTEL, New York. 

Oysters on half shell 

Soups. 

Paysanne Clam 

Fish. 

Boiled Haddock, shrimp sauce Baked Sole, Genoise 
Small Potatoes 

Releves. 

Leg of Mutton, caper sauce Corned Beef and 
Cabbage Chicken and Pork Calf’s Head 
brain sauce Beef Tongue Ham 

Cold Dishes. 

Beef Tongue Roast Beef Liam Boned Turkey 
Lobster plain Chicken Salad Lobster Salad 
Lamb Head Cheese 

Entrees. 

Sirloin of Beef k la Bordelaise 
Snipe bardee sur croustade 

Epigramme of Lamb aux petits pois 
Bouchees of Oysters k la Reine 
Chicken k la Chasseur 

Cream Fritters, vanilla flavor 
•Roasts. 

Chicken Ham champagne sauce Mongrel Duck 
Beef Saddle of Mutton Turkey 

Cura^oa Sherbet 


Game. , 

Antelope 
Vegetables. 

Boiled Potatoes Onions Stewed Tomatoes. 
Mashed Potatoes Beets Sweet Potatoes 
Hominy Fried Parsnips Turnips 
Spinach String Beans 

Pastry and Dessert. 

Suet Pudding, wine sauce 
Rice Pudding Sliced Apple Pie 

Cocoanut Pie Fancy Macaroons 

Holland Cake Charlotte Russe Ladies’ Cake 
Almonds Oranges Raisins Pecan Nuts 
Apples Grapes Pears Bananas 
Hickory Nuts Figs English Walnuts 
Vanilla Ice Cream 
Coffee. 

When, in the matter of these side dishes 
or of any other question of arrangement, 
there seems to be such diversity of practice 
even amongst the higher class of caterers, 
we come back to the fact that there is such 
a thing as an American hotel bill of fare that 
is a pattern to itself, and indeed is becoming 
a pattern to many on the other side of the 
Atlantic as numerous printed bills of their 
hotels show, and the old forms, which are 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


51 


more perplexing than useful to follow, are 
in our bills of fare ignored and left over 
for those to carry out whose duties compel 
them to conform to foreign usages. The 
hotel named on preceding page will be re¬ 
cognized as a representative one and one 
of the largest size, yet its bill of fare is very 
faulty in arrangement, if it is to be judged 
by foreign rules; it is, curiously enough, the 
desperate effort to make an American hotel 
bill conform to a Parisian pattern, in reason 
and without reason, which makes it faulty, 
for it is neither the one nor the other; the 
curacoa sherbet, the antelope, the snipe and 
the salads are all out of their proper places 
beyond dispute, while other dishes and 
even divisions stand upon disputed ground. 

But to finish the hors d'ceuvres question: 
One object of inserting the Fifth Avenue 
Hotel bill on preceding page was to show 
that even the best hotels do not always 
enumerate such things as come under that 
designation, but if they do, the proper place 
for celery, olives, sliced tomatoes and sim¬ 
ilar cold trifles is after the soup. It is 
necessary to state this definitely because 
serious contentions often arise between 
steward and proprietor on just such ques¬ 
tions, and there are some who maintain 
that such cold “appetizers” should be 
written in after the fish “ to take away the 
taste of fish,” as they reason. In the 
smaller hotels, where the cold trifles are 
placed on the table in advance to facilitate 
quick service and save waiters’ labor, the 
particular line occupied in the bill of fare 
is of little consequence, but the best usage 
decides after the soup. For example: 

Hors d’CEuvre. 

Oysters on half shell. 

Soups. 

Clam Paysanne 

Celery Olives Sardines Prawns Caviar 
Fish. 

Boiled Haddock, shrimp sauce Baked Sole Genoise 
Parisian Potatoes. 

SERVING POTATOES WITH FISH. 

A cursory examination of the hotel bills 
of fare from all parts of the country will 


show that the custom of serving potatoes 
in some fancy form with fish has become 
very general, so much so that a bill does 
not seem to be complete nor as stylish as 
it might be if that feature happens to have 
been omitted. It is a recent custom which 
originated in the famous restaurants of 
Paris, notably at Brebant’s, for whom one 
of the forms of potatoes is named, that we 
designate a la Brabant. It comes quite as 
natural to eat vegetables with fish as with 
meat, yet foreign custom, and particularly 
English custom, has confined us hereto¬ 
fore to bread—generally brown bread— 
with that course. The ornamental addi¬ 
tion of potatoes to the sauce is the more 
satisfactory, because the individual style of 
service of the present day shuts out most 
of the ornamental styles of dishes that 
used to be served whole. Potato croquettes 
and croquette balls, leaf, heart and star 
shapes of duchesse potatoes carefully egged 
over and baked, and, indeed, all the varia¬ 
tions that are in use are great helps to the 
appearance of a plate of fish. 

ALWAYS SERVE FISH ON SMALL PLATES. 

New waiters generally have to be in¬ 
structed on this point, as they are most apt 
to take a meat dish for fish. But if they 
serve it so, the person at table will slip it 
from the dish to his plate, and the dinner 
plate will then have to be changed for the 
meat course. Apart from that considera¬ 
tion, the fish looks better on a dessert plate, 
and it cannot be transferred to another 
without “mussing” it up with its sauce. 
The diner eats it from its own small plate, 
garnished as the cook sends it in. 

WHICH FIRST, JOINTS OR ENTREES? 

It will be observed that in all the ex¬ 
ample bills of fare thus far shown the roast 
meats appear after the entrees; in the first 
one the entrees come next after the fish, in 
the others the “fence is straddled” and the 
boiled meats precede entrees and roast 
meats follow them in another place. Here 
is a Scottish bill that looks a good deal like 
American style except that it has no vege- 







52 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


tables or other minor mention, and in this, 
loo, the entrees follow the fish. The cor¬ 
respondent writes: 

“A presentation dinner was given by 
the Queen’s Own Yeomanry Cavalry to 
their major on the occasion of his leaving 
for India. I got hold of the bill of fare— 
a good, healthy volunteer menu —which I 
now present: 

Hare Soup. Oyster Soup. 

Clear Oxtail. 

Turbot, Lobster Sauce. 

Dressed Cod, Oyster Sauce. 

Filleted Sole. 

Mutton Cutlets, Sauce Piquante. 

Sweetbreads with Mushrooms. 

Curried Rabbit. 

Supreme of Chicken aux Truffles. 

Sirloin of Beef. Haunch of Venison. 

Braised Turkeys, Celery'Sauce, 

Roast Chickens. Yorkshire Ham. 

Ox Tongues. 

Victoria Pudding. Lemon Pudding. 

Berlin Tarts. Swiss Souffles. 

Stewed Fruits. Blancmange. 

Noyeau Jellies. 

Dessert. 

Now, all of these try to follow the 
French custom of serving the entrees first, 
only because it is the French way, and 
those who split the difference and place 
boiled on top, entrees in the middle and 
roasts next, get the roast beef and such 
solid joints so far down, because the French 
roasts are placed there in French bills, 
without taking notice that such French 
bills never contain any plain boiled meats, 
nor plain roast beef, nor mutton. Their 
roasts {rots) are some choice kinds of small 
game, something that is considered better 
in some way than the made dishes or en¬ 
trees. The French idea is that plain roasted 
or boiled meats are not good enough for a 
fine menu. (Look at the representative 
menu of the dinner given in Paris by 
the Stanley Club, a little way back—no 
boils or roasts are there.) Instead of crowd¬ 
ing the English favorite boiled leg of 
Southdown mutton into that Parisian bill 
just under the turbot, and the American 


favorite rare roast beef into the place occu¬ 
pied by pheasants and partridges stir crou - 
stades , we do better to make our own style 
of bill of fare according to the preferences 
of our own people, who, generally speak¬ 
ing, regard the joints as the principal part 
of a dinner and all the rest as little nic- 
nacks, very nice in their place, but of no 
great consequence. 

Practically it does not make much dif¬ 
ference whether the entrees or the boils 
and roasts are placed first in order, for ex¬ 
perience shows that people choosing from 
a bill of fare nearly always select whatever 
meats they intend to partake of all at one 
time, boiled joints, roasted joints, entrees 
or game, and their favorite vegetables with 
them, without regard to the order in which 
they are ranged in the printed list; still it 
is most proper to place the substantial 
meats before the entrees, in conformity 
to the principles laid down by the French 
gastronomers themselves. 

Here is the ideal menu embodied in a 
recent sketch by a feuilletonist of the day, 
“Max O’Rell.” He depicts a little party of 
three or four “gastronomically educated” 
individuals, Paris gourmets, in fact, seri¬ 
ously engaged in the absorbing question 
what to order for dinner at the fashionable 
restaurant, where they are seated, and the 
subjoined shows the outcome of their de¬ 
liberations: 

“Consomme aux pois. 

Oysters and a sole Normande. 

Pheasant a la Sainte-Alliance. 

Chateaubriand. 

Tenderest of asparagus h l’Amazone. 

Supremes de mauviettes. 

Ortolans a la Proven^ale. 

Meringues k. la vanille. 

Ice, cheece, dessert.” 

But it is easy to see that “ Max O’Rell ” 
has been studying Brillat Savarin and the 
Physiology du Gout for his purpose; the 
dishes are Savarin’s favorites, the “pheas¬ 
ant a la Sainte-Alliance" was his own in¬ 
vention, the menu is necessarily good and, 
which is most to the point, its arrangement 
of dishes in place is according to one of the 
axioms laid down by that much admired 












THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


53 


teacher that the order of dishes should be 
from the plain and substantial to the more 
light and delicate, the motive being to pro¬ 
long the pleasure of eating by leading on 
irom dish to dish, from good to better and 
best. In this Ihe ideal menu of this literary 
man is precisely the same as the best spe¬ 
cimens of the American hotel bill of fare. 
After the soup and fish comes the roast 
pheasant, equivalent to our every-day roast 
•chicken or turkey stuffed; the Chateau¬ 
briand, which comes next, is the fillet 
■of beef, with natural beef juice for its 
sauce; it is to all intents the same as 
■our roast beef and the nearest thing to 
plain roast beef that a proper Parisian 
menu ever shows. More delicate and 
more piquantly seasoned than those 
are the larks and then the ortolans, the 
fattest of small birds, and called the choic¬ 
est morsel that is known to epicures. Ac¬ 
cording to that rule, our entrees, seasoned, 
flavored and spiced, decorated to tempt the 
appetite that is already satisfied with plain 
food, should be placed after the substantial 
boiled and roasted meats, instead of before. 
And yet we would not have every bill look 
alike. 

THREE ROYAL EXAMPLES. 

Not to depend upon the idealism for 
fligh sanction, however, the following 
menu of an actual affair shows a pretty 
good pattern of the American style; that 
is of the essential part, for these menus 
never mention the vegetables unless they 
are made into a good dish such as we call 
a vegetable entree and they call entremets, 
just as our bills never mention bread un¬ 
less it is made up into some form like crou- 
atades, sippets or toast: 

“Gala dinner served at Prince Ftirsten- 
berg’s palace, at Kremsier, to the Emperors 
•of Austria and Russia and seventy-six 
guests. The table was laid with the costly 
service of gold plate from the Imperial 
Palace of Schonbrunn. The following 
menu was placed before the illustrious 
diners: 


Tortue Claire. 

Bouchees a l’Empereur. 

Filets de Saumon a la Cardinal. 

Pikce de Bceuf et Selle de Veau. 

Supreme de Poularde k la Financiere. 

Chaudfroid de Cailles. 

Sorbet. 

Selle de Chevreuil, Salade et Groseilles de Bar. 

Fonds d’Artichauts & la Demidoff. 

Pouding k la Crkme de Vanille. 

Gelee au Muscat Lunel. 

Fromages. Glaces aux Noisettes. Dessert.” 

There is a clear turtle soup; a hot hors 
cT oeuvre \ fillets of salmon with a sauce 
made red with lobster coral; a piece of beef 
and saddle of veal, roasted of course; a 
rich fricassee of chicken, white, and a rich 
fricassee of quails, brown, for the entrees; 
then punch. Next, the game, saddle of 
venison with currant jelly and a salad, and 
artichoke bottoms for the vegetable to eat 
with it. Then a vanilla cream pudding, 
muscat wine jelly, cheese, ices, nuts and 
fruit. The piece of beef and saddle of veal 
above the entrees is the feature that makes 
it like an American bill of fare and differ¬ 
ent from French bills, and it has a familiar 
appearance all through. 

“The following is the bill of fare of a nice 
little dinner given by the Archduke Joseph 
of Austria to a select party of guests at his 
charming country seat on Marguerite 
Island, on the Danube,, near Buda-Pesth. 
Count Zichy presided, the Archduke being 
prevented from appearing at the table 
owing to his being in court mourning: 

MENU. 

Potage k la Colbert. 

Pikce d’esturgeon, sauce remoulade. 

Filet de bceuf k l’Anglaise. 

Bouchees k la Reine. 

Perdreaux rbtis. 

Salade Fran^aise. 

Turas-Haluska. 

Glace panachee. 

Caf6. Liqueur Zichy. Crkme. 

Partaken of to the melodious accompani¬ 
ment of a band of Tziganes (Anglice, 
Hungarian band), and washed down with 
various bottles of Hungarian wines, 
amongst which reigned supreme a regi- 
| ment of Imperial Tokay, 1834.” 




54 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


There is a soup to be found in American 
bills any day; piece of sturgeon with a va¬ 
riation of tartar sauce, or mayonaise with 
minced pickles in it; fillet of beef in En¬ 
glish style, which is plain roasted with 
mushrooms; only one entree, which is a 
patty that might do equally well as a hors 
d'oeuvre; then roast partridge and a French 
salad. Turas-Haluska is a Hungarian 
pudding; then comes tri-colored or Neapol¬ 
itan ice cream and dessert. 

“Menu of a September lunch served at 
Mar Lodge upon the occasion of the 
Prince of Wales’ visit to the Earl of Fife: 

Consomm^ de voiaille. 

Turbot crfeme au gratin. 

Salmis de grousses & la Mar Lodge. 

Poulets h la Viennoise. 

Filet de bceuf Bordelaise. 

Quartier d’agneau r6ti, sauce menthe. 

Perareaux r&tis. 

Petits pois Franfais. 

Souffle Bearnaise chaud. 

Mousse au cafd.” 

In that there is a quarter of lamb, roasted, 
with mint sauce, and a fillet of beef. The 
arrangement of dishes is slightly different 
from others, due to the preferences of the 
French clief who prepared the menu. The 
last dish named is a coffee-flavored whipped 
cream, a froth. 

These selections are more than mere in¬ 
teresting reading; they may serve as ex¬ 
amples for occasions which are continually 
arising in our hotels when traveling dig¬ 
nitaries and celebrities are to be enter¬ 
tained, and they show that it is not the 
proper thing then to make the bill of fare 
twice as long as it usually is made for 
common use. But to return to the ordi¬ 
nary hotel bill: 

THE PLACE FOR THE COLD MEATS. 

Those who wish to find good authority 
for placing the small side dishes of cucum¬ 
bers, celery, etc., after the fish instead of 
before, with the idea of “something to take 
away the taste of fish,” have excellent pat¬ 
terns to follow in the three hotel bills of 
fare here following. A person having to 
decide what form to adopt could hardly do 


better than take either the first, which is 
from the Bates House, Indianapolis, or the 
third, which has the name of the hotel at¬ 
tached. The latter shows another way of 
putting in those little dishes, “small onions” 
and “olives” appearing in smaller type 
after the entrees, while “celery” follows the 
fish. 

ZDIISTIESriEIR/- 

OYSTERS. 

New York Counts 
SOUP. 

Mulligatawny Consomm 4 

FISH. 

Striped Bass, Madeira Wine Sauce 
Boiled California Salmon, French Peas 
Potato Croquettes 

Spanish Olives Sliced Tomatoes Olives 

BOILED. 

Fowl, Oyster Sauce 
Leg of Lamb, Caper Sauce 

ROAST. 

Sirloin of Beef 

Young Turkey with Dressing 
Cranberry Sauce 

ENTREES. 

Tenderloin of Beef, Larded, Tomato Sauce 

Sweet Breads, Braised, Mushrooms 

Banana Fritters, Rum Flavor 

GAME. 

Roast Pheasant, Bread Sauce 

Mallard Duck, Plum Jelly 

CHAMPAGNE ICE. 

COLD. 

Celery Salad Mayonnaise of Chicken Lamb 
Smoked Beef Tongue 
Roast Beef Crab Salad 

VEGETABLES. 

Mashed Potatoes Boded Potatoes 
Steamed Rice 

Cauliflower Stewed Tomatoes Red Slaw 
Jersey Sweet Potatoes Baked 

PASTRY, ETC. 

Oriental Pudding, Steamed, Brandy Sauce 
Lemon Meringue Pie 
Mince Pie Charlotte Russe 
Almond Macaroons Fancy Assorted Cake 

VANILLA ICE CREAM. 

Raisins Mixed Nuts Figs 
Fruit in Season 

Edam and New York Cream Cheese Crackers 

Coffee. 


















THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


55-- 


These trifling variations show how bills 
may differ without being wrong in ar¬ 
rangement. The middle one of these three 
bills of fare is from the Sherwood, a fash¬ 
ionable hotel in New York; it shows cu¬ 
cumbers after the fish, not because that is 
the place chosen for the cold hors d ’ ceuvres , 
as some of them appear lower down under 
the head of “mayonnaise,” but for the rea¬ 
son that it is proper, according to French 
ways, to serve cucumbers with fish. But 
suppose one has an antipathy and cannot eat 
sliced cucumbers with the French, is it not 
equally proper to eat sliced tomatoes with 
the Americans? And if both cucumbers 
and tomatoes are proper why not celery, 
also, and olives? The inquiring reader is 
to remember that these momentous ques¬ 
tions can never be definitely settled—never 
so long as the world stands, but there may 
come a moment sometime in the midst of 
a heated debate when he will thank us for 
giving him this argument and the Sher¬ 
wood bill of fare, which illustrates it. 

ZDXTTIETIEIR. 

Tuesday , March /, i88j. 

Blue Point Oysters on Half Shell 
SOUP. 

Chicken with okra Consommfe 

FISH. 

Boiled Halibut, anchovy sauce 
Cucumbers Potatoes 

BOILED. 

Corned Beef and Cabbage 
REMOVES. 

Ribs of Beef Chicken Leg of Mutton 

Cold Meats, Etc. 

MAYONNAISE. 

Chicken Fetticus Lobster Lettuce 

Tomato Cold Slaw 

ENTREES. 

Fillet of Beef, sauce Bearnaise 
Calf’s Feet a la Poulette 
VEGETABLES. 

Macaroni h la Milanaise Bermuda Potatoes 

Rice Tomatoes Oyster Plant, fried 
Mashed Turnips Cream Spinach 
DESSERT. 

Boiled Apple Dumpling, brandy sauce 
Peach Pie Charlotte Russe Assorted Cakes 
Orange Water Ice Vanilla Ice Cream 
FRUITS NUTS CHEESE COFFEE 


in extra charge will be made for dishes ordered not on the 
bill of fare. 

DINNER FROM 6 TO 7.3O. 


XdZTBXTTT. 

Soup. 

Green Sea Turtle, h l’Anglaise Consommb Royal- 

Fish. 

Baked Florida Trout, aux Fines Herbes 
Celery Potato Croquettes 

Boiled. 

Corned Beef and Cabbage 
Leg of Southdown Mutton, Caper Sauce 

Roast. 

Ribs of New York Beef, with Yorkshire Pudding 
Sirloin of Beef, with Browned Potatoes 
Young Chicken, Stuffed, Giblet Sauce 
Sugar Cured Ham, Sherry Sauce 

Entrees. 

Tenderloin of Beef, Saute, with Mushrooms 
Calf’s Head, h la Toulouse 
Apple Fritters, Glace au Rum 
Olives Small Onions 

Cold Dishes. 

Roast Beef Ham Corned Beef Shrimp Salad 
V EGETABLES. 

Boiled Potatoes Mashed Potatoes 
Carolina Rice Stewed Tomatoes 

Sweet Potatoes Extra Sifted Peas 

Vegetable Oyster Plant, Cream Sauce 
Asparagus. 

Pastry and Dessert. 

Fruit Cake, Glace au Rum Lady Fingers 

Almond Macaroons 

Meringues, a la Parisienne Peach Pie 

Vanilla Custard, au Meringue 
Steamed Cabinet Pudding, Claret Sauce 
Ice Cream, au Muscat 

Fruits. 

Apples Oranges Bananas Raisins 
Dates Assorted Nuts 


Edam and Cream Cheese Wafers French Coffee 
Japan and Gunpowder Tea 
Sweet Milk Butter Milk 

Kimball House, Jan. 9, 1S87. 

But the real object of introducing these 
examples is to show the best place to locate 
the cold meats, that is at the end of all the 
other meats; if entrees are the last let cold 
meats follow them, if game appears after 
the entrees let cold meat come after the 
game. The Fifth Avenue and the Sher¬ 
wood have them higher up, and they do 
not look so well up there dividing the hot 
meats. That is about all the argument 
there is in the case, for this division is the 
b&te noir of the tasty bill of fare writer. 
The majority of hotel caterers try very 
hard indeed to twist their table d'hote bill 
into the shape of the French course dinner 
bill, with its sorbet or punch in the middle 
and its game after the punch and salad 
after the game; and they manage that far 
very well, but when the cold meats di¬ 
vision has to come in they are at a loss; 









56 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


the Parisian course dinner has no cold 
meats division so they have no guide. But 
the hotel customers don’t care a fig about 
that, and want cold meats just the same. 
As caterers to the tastes of hotel patrons 
we have but little concern with their mo¬ 
tives, but we know from experience that 
no matter what the hot meats may be some 
few out of a number always call for the 
cold cuts. It may be that at the mid-day 
dinner some people restrict themselves to 
selecting only a lunch, taking their hot 
meal at supper time, or, at evening dinner 
some people allow themselves only a light 
supper, letting all the rich and savory hot 
dishes severely alone at that time of day or 
night. The “cold meats” division, therefore, 
has to be tolerated; the only thing to be 
done is to fill it with but few items, and 
one or more should be of the rich and or¬ 
namental sort—aspics, mayonaises, boar’s 
head, galantines, raised fatis. The inquir¬ 
ing reader should note in these examples 
the two different ways of placing the date: 
with and without the day of the week; at 
top and at lower left-hand corner; and the 
subsidiary lines, and also that all three 
have headings to the different divisions, 
and at the same time make no mention of 
“relishes.” Attention is also directed to 
the example of two New York hotel bills 
•—the Sherwood here and Victoria in a 
previous article of this series—in serving 
macaroni and spaghetti as a vegetable, or 
with the vegetables; that is not an over¬ 
sight, misfit or mistake, but all those dishes 
are properly classed as entremets by those 
who wish to have things that way; so are 
puddings. 

CURRENT CRITICISMS. 

In one respect, at least, the writer of 
these lines has always been misunderstood 
by some readers. He has never denied 
that the French are the leaders of the 
fashions in dining as well as in other 
things, but has denied that French fashions 
are applicable to American hotel dinners. 
He has never denied that the French know 
more about cooking, taking them as a 


people, than any other people; but has 
always contended, and contends yet, that 
to adopt strictly French cooking in an 
American hotel would drive most of the 
customers away. This is not supposition, 
but observation and experience. The 
French cooks themselves make the same 
observations and go back to France in dis¬ 
gust, complaining of a lack of appreciation, 
or else, if they stay here, they change their 
ways somewhat to suit our people. 

But yet, if some amongst our hotel pat¬ 
rons will follow French fashions and dine 
upon fashionable dishes in fashionable for¬ 
mality we, as hotel caterers, are required 
to understand the subject with all the whys 
and wherefores, and for that reason these 
different samples of bills of fare are pre¬ 
sented, showing different forms; only pres¬ 
sing one line of opinion, viz: that while 
French cooking and French -ways are the 
very best for the French , we need a little 
different system, because we are a different 
people and do not like the same things in 
the same ways as they do. The real point 
of contention, and where the writer may 
possibly appear to be eccentric, if not or¬ 
iginal, is in this: that while most of the 
fine writers and would-be gastronomical 
educators say, “ But you ought to do thus 
and so because the French do so,” the argu¬ 
ment of these articles has always been: let 
the French go their ways; few of us like 
their oil, their garlic, their glaze, their 
espagnole, their nutmeg (in meats and 
potatoes), their herbs, their thin soups, 
their anchovies, their snails, their many 
things, and we cannot help these likes and 
dislikes in food. The French say we can 
not have good cooking unless we employ 
French cooks at their own prices, but we 
will say we will educate our own cooks 
and see what French, Italian, German and 
Spanish cooks know, that we want; and 
will adopt so much of their knowledge as 
is applicable to our own people, and leave 
the rest. The above is partly in answer to 
criticisms. There are some partisans who 
are disappointed when there is not a fight, 
and they look for a running down and de- 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


57 


preciation of every French form only 
because it is French, and because they 
do not understand it. That would be 
extremely ridiculous. The object of 
these writings is to show the meaning 
and the merits of other people’s fashions 
that we may hold fast that which is good 
and agreeable, and leave the remainder for 
them that like them, although we do not 
like them ourselves. If it were necessaiy 
to adopt some other country’s fashion for 
a model the Italian bill of fare would come 
nearer to our predictions than the French. 
It is from the Italians we get our “sweet 
entrees;” our favorite “fritter” is the fritto 
of the Italian bill of fare, an indispensable 
course in every Italian dinner. The best 
known names among the noted cooks and 
caterers of New York are Italians; the 
fancy cake and confectionary business of 
London is largely in the hands of Italians 
—it is almost given up to them; and it does 
not follow that because they are excellent 
in some branches of the art we should 
make our bill of fare all of the Italian pat¬ 
tern, nor made up all of Italian dishes any 
more than French, although a steward, 
having to provide for the entertainment of 
a distinguished party of Italians, may be 
very glad to have the following example 
for a guide. 

The following is the bill of fare of a 
dinner of a national character, prepared for 
Italians by an Italian, and it helps to ex¬ 
plain why some of our American hotel 
bills of fare are formed as they are; 
it is the mixture of Italian with French 
ways. The employment of fine Italian 
cooks in many hotels causes the bills of 
fare of such hotels to be really Italian in 
form, and therefore seem to be wrong 
when compared with French patterns, and 
hence some of the apparent confusion, and 
hence another argument in favor of adopt¬ 
ing a distinctly American bill of fare: 

A REPRESENTATIVE ITALIAN BILL OF 
FARE. 

Banquet to Signor Salvini, given by the 
Italian Colony in London, at the Panton 


Hotel (proprietor, Mr. R. Pratti). Covers 
laid for fifty. Dining room profusely de¬ 
corated with flowers and with Italian and 
English flags. 

MENU: 

Oslriche Native. 

ANTIPASTO. 

Caviale, Sardine, Salame, Tonno, Selleri, etc. 

ZUPPA. 

Ravioli al Brodo. Risotto con Tartuffi. 

FRITTO. 

Frittura Mista. 

PESCE. 

Salmone Bellito, Salsa alia Genovese 

e Salsa Hollandese. 

ENTREES. 

Polio Saute alia Salvini. 

Animelle di Vitello alia Minuta con Tartuffi. 

PUNCH ALLA ROMANA. 

Asparagi alia Milanese. 

Aspic d’Aragosta alia Garibaldi. 

ROSTO. 

Agnello alio Spiedo. 

Insalata assortitia. 

SELVAGIUME. 

Quag-lie rostite. 

DOLCE. 

Zabbaglione. 

Ananas all’ Orientale. 

Croccante di Amandole. 

Gelati alia Napolitana. 

Gateau alia Vanille. 

Petits Souffles all’ Indiana. 

DESSERT ASSORTITO. 

Caffe e Liquori. 

VINI. 

Sauterne. 

Chianti. Barolo. 

The first dish above named is not ostrich, 
but oysters—English “natives,” raw, of 
course, and it is very rarely that a French 
menu is formed that way, for the cold hors 
d'oeuvres here follow the oysters under an¬ 
other heading; the Italians call them anti¬ 
pasto, and regard them as much a neces¬ 
sary part of a good dinner as the soup or 
fish. After them the soup, and after the 
soup the hot hors d'oeuvre, which Italians 
call the fritto. After that the fish with 
two sauces but no potatoes, the fancy form 
of potatoes with fish seeming, therefore, 


















58 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


not to be an Italian fashion. After the 
fish comes the entrees, just as seen in so 
many New York bills, and after them the 
punch, which is according to French fash¬ 
ion as well. The cold dishes following the 
punch is just like some New York bills of 
fare and still more are the two next di¬ 
visions where there are roast lamb and 
assorted salads in the same place as the 
French roti and salade would be, but is dif¬ 
ferent in having still another “game” di¬ 
vision for the roast quail. All the rest are 
sweets and wines. 

THE DINNER IN COURSES. 

Perhaps a better illustration of the form 
of making up an American-French course 
dinner could not be found than the annexed 
novelty, which turns up at the right time 
to verify the foregoing statements. The 
principal difference betwixt this and the 
table d'hote form is that nobody can choose 
which dish they will take and which they 
will pass by in the course dinner, but each 
one is served the same, w r hile at table d'hote 
each individual may choose one thing or 
twenty, at discretion. This was an annual 
dinner of an association of traveling men 
held at the Metropolitan Hotel, New York. 
The menu is written in imitation of a 
rrdlroad ticket, with coupon attachments, 
and must be read from bottom to top, the 
first coupon to be torn off being the first 
course, of which there are ten in all—from 
D rawing Room to Oysters; from Oysters 
to Soup; from Soup to Hors d’ceuvre; 
Hors d’ceuvre to Fish (with potatoes and 
cucumbers); from Fish to Releve; from 
Releve to Entrees; from Entrees to Punch; 
from Punch to Roast and Salads; from 
Roast to Pastry and Creams; from Pastry 
to Fruit, Cheese, Coffee and Liqueurs. It 
will be noted that the wines appear with 
the dishes. “Old Reserve” is sherry with 
the soup. The aptness of the quotation 
under the hot hors d'oeuvre consists in the 
word mouthful, bouchee means mouthful. 
This is termed an American-French menu 
because it has Blue Points, Diamond-back 
Terrapin, Kennebec Salmon, Red-head 


Duck (“dear,” too) and a good deal of 
French language. But it is a good pattern; 


CAFE AND COGNAC TO A FLOW OF SOUL. 

“Serenely full the ep : cure would say— 

Fate cannot harm me, I have dined lO-d.ty." 

—Sidney Smith. 

“And all the people said— ‘Amen.’ " 


ENTREMETS TO FRUITS. 

Fromage, Cafe, Cognac and Liqueurs 

“Spirits, which by mine art I have from their confines call'd 
to enact 

My present fancies." 

—“Tempest," Act IV, Scene i. 


ROTI TO ENTREMETS. 

Pudding k la Reine au Cognac 
Jelly au Champagne 

Bombes k la Windsor Petits Fours. 

“I will make an end of my dinner, there’s pippins and chees® 
to come." 

—“Merry Wives of Windsor," Act I, Scene ii. 


PUNCH TO ROTI. 

Red-Head Duck Lettuce 

Chambertin 

“0, dainty duck! 0, dear!" 

—“Midsummer Night's Dream," Act V, Scene i 

ENTREES TO SORBET. 

Punch au Kirsch 

“Is it a party in the parlor ? 

Crammed just as they on earth were crammed. 

Some sipping punch." 

—Wordsworth’s “Peter Bell" (Suppressed passage). 


RELEVE TO ENTREES. 

Supreme of Chicken, k 1 ’Imperial 
Petit Pois Francaises 
Diamond-Back Terrapin k la Maryland 
Champagne 

“This lapwing runs away with the shell on her head." 

—“Hamlet,' Act V, Scene ii. 


POISSON TO RELEVE. 

Filet de Bceuf pique aux Truffes 
Haricots Verts La Rose 

"If you give me any conserves, give me conserve of beef." 

—“Taming of The Shrew" (Introduction). 


HORS d’ceuvre TO POISSON. 

Kennebec Salmon k la Hollandaise 
Concombres Pommes, Parisi«une 

Haut Sauterne 

“She, that in wisdom never were s* frail, 

To change the cod’s head for the salmon’s tail." 

—‘ Othello," Act II, Scene ii. 


















THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


59 


POTAGE TO HORS D’tEUVRE. 

Petites Bouchees k la Montglas. 

“ * * plays and tumbles, driving the poor fry before him, 
and at la-^t devours them all at a mouthful. ' 

—"Pericles," Act II, Scene i. 


HUITRES TO POTAGE. 

Cream of Celery aux Croutons 
Consomme, Colbert Royal 
Old Reserve 

“Mingles with the friendly bowl, 

The feast of reason and the ilow of soul.'* 

—Pope's “Imitation of Horace." 


SALON TO HUITRES. 

Blue Points 

“The banquet waits our presence, festal joy 
Laughs in the mantling goblet, and the night 
Illumin'd by the taper’s dazzling beam, 

Rivals departed day." 

—Brown’s “Barbarossa." 


Another good example of the course 
dinner, right side up, is that Parisian menu, 
printed in a former article, of the Stanley 
Club; incomplete, however, in not naming 
vegetables. 

Complimentary banquet tendered to the 
New England Grocers at the Grand Cen¬ 
tral Hotel, New York, Tuesday afternoon, 
Nov. ist, at 2 o’clock: 

Blue Point Oysters on the half shell 
SOUP 
Green Turtle 
FISH 

Filet de Sole au gratin k l’ltalienne 
Potatoes Brabant 

RELEVE 

Filet of Beef pique k la Bordelaise 
Potatoes Parisiennes Cream Spinach 

ENTREE 

Chicken Croquettes k la Toulouse 
String Beans 

ROAST 

Stuffed Turkey, Cranberry Sauce 
Baked Sweet Potatoes 

PUNCH 

Punch k la Romaine 

GAME 

Roast Partridge 
Celery Mayonnaise 

PASTRY 

English Plum Pudding, Hard and Brandy Sauce 
Vanilla Ice Cream 
Mixed Cakes Apple Pie 

Pumpkin Pie 

DESSERT 

Nuts and Raisins Ice Cream 

Roquefort Cheese Bent’s Biscuits 

Fruit Coffee 


For a good practical example of a dinner 
in courses the preceding may be taken. It 
is open to criticism on some points, such as 
using the French spelling of filet instead 
of English fillet, and in another respect, 
perhaps not worth naming, but it happily 
adapts American favorite dishes, such, as 
roast turkey and sweet potatoes, to the uses 
of an unfamiliar form of service. It is to 
be observed that in a course dinner each 
dish of meat and game, as well as fish, has 
its own vegetable accompaniment, and the 
vegetables are not to be bunched together 
as they are in the table d'hote bill of fare. 

THE SORBET OR PUNCH. 

There is a growing desire among pro¬ 
prietors and stewards, who endeavor to set 
the best tables, to adopt the punch, which 
appears in the middle of the French course 
dinner bill, between entree and game. The 
example may be noted in several of the 
bills of fare shown in preceding articles, 
and the usually selected place for it is there 
seen, likewise. It is no longer always Ro¬ 
man punch, nor frozen punch, but after all 
these have had a run some stewards have 
taken to serving champagne cup, claret 
cup, Balaklava cup, and all the punches 
with fine names which can be found in the 
“barkeepers’ guides.” Some of these are 
poured from pitchers or decanters into the 
guest’s glass that is already set upon the 
table. The various frozen punches—which 
are never quite solidly frozen—should be 
served in deep punch glasses, cup shaped, 
with handles. 

There is a strong argument against the 
serving of punch gratis, however, in that 
it tends to lessen the sale of wine and 
bottled ale and beer, which some hotel 
keepers find a source of profit equal at least 
to the cigar stand, which in many houses 
is sufficient to pay the rent. It is argued 
that to give the diner a glass of rum punch 
with his dinner takes away his desire to 
order anything from the bar, and where 
the addition of wine to the dinner is offered 
as an advertisement, to introduce a sorbet 
or punch would be injudicious. 












GO 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


“THOSE EVERLASTING RELISHES.” 

This is a minority report. There is al¬ 
most always a minority that disagrees; 
somtimes the minority is called a respect¬ 
able one, and it is allowed to present a re¬ 
port even after the question has been de¬ 
cided against it. It is decidedly in bad 
taste to include “Relishes,” with big black 
letters, as a heading in a bill of fare, and 
being in bad taste it is wrong, and is so 
acknowledged by nearly all, for the finest 
Sunday bills and Christmas and New 
Years bills, which are sent out for show, 
seldom include any “relishes”; yet a mi¬ 
nority of those who send them out put 
“relishes” on their bills the very next day, 
and every day, for the home folks and for 
that class of travelers that wants a large 
and plentiful-looking bill for so much a 
meal. A part of this minority runs “re¬ 
lishes” in order to encourage manufactur¬ 
ers of table delicacies, inventors of new 
table sauces, importers of foreign novelties, 
purveyors of pure oils, the makers of all 
that glittering array of finely bottled and 
artistically labeled goods which makes the 
shelves of the dealers in fancy groceries 
the handsomest display in the city; and, as 
there is no limit to the enterprise of some 
hotel keepers and stewards, who make the 
excellence of their table the pride of their 
life, they constantly look over the columns 
of their hotel papers to see what new oils, 
catsups, soys, chutneys, salad dressings, 
fish sauces, flavored vinegars, or whatever 
else have lately come into use and fashion, 
and to find the places to buy them. Others 
still, belonging to the minority, grow very 
tired of catering to people who are not, in 
the mass, gastronomically educated, and 
they try to educate their customers to a 
point beyond Worcestershire sauce by 
placing on their tables such things as mush¬ 
room and walnut catsups, Bengal and 
Madras chutneys, chili-colorado, Tabasco 
sauce, anchovy essence, Harvey’s sauce, 
India soy, tarragon vinegar, and com¬ 
pounds of that class to the number of about 
fifty, in turn, and when they find the bottles 


remain untouched, or scarcely a bottle 
used up In a year, because these are such 
mysterious things, they put the names of 
such “relishes” on their bill of fare, know¬ 
ing that as everybody has read about 
everything in this land of newspapers, their 
boarders and visitors will thus be led to 
appreciate the provision made for their 
more luxurious dining. 

The fight against “relishes” in the bill of 
fare has never been made against the re¬ 
finement of the table, however, but was, 
and is still, directed against the silly “pad¬ 
ding out” of the bill to make it look big 
and plentiful, though there is nothing in it; 
against such parades as used to be met 
with often, as: “Plain Pickles, Mixed 
Pickles, Stuffed Pickles, Spiced Pickles, 
Cucumber Pickles, Sharp & Soursauce’s 
Celebrated Piccalilli,” — which would all 
be strung out in one bill, followed by 
“Plain Mustard, French Mustard,” and a 
lot more such stuff, and this brought the 
whole department of relishes into disrepute. 
In this connection it must be noted again, 
and still on the side of the minority, that 
recent innovations in setting the table have 
done away with the chance of the guests 
seeing what they want when the bill of fare 
does not mention it. The best of the first- 
class hotels now have no cruet-stands on 
the tables, but, instead, a small regiment 
of tiny ornamental vases, decanters, jugs, 
pitchers, amphorce, ampulla, of china—such 
things as are found on the ornamental 
shelves and in the show-windows of the 
dealers in hotel china; these hold the va¬ 
rious accessories of condiments and relishes, 
and yet give no outward token of their 
contents; the guest cannot be rure that 
even his familiar Worcestershire sauce and 
tomato catsup are there until he gets 
acquainted; he must either learn them 
from daily use, or ask the waiter, or come 
and go in ignorance of the fact that the 
thing wished for was so near, or else the 
bill of fare must tell him. There is no 
need of a heading for “Relishes” to tell 
this; one line across the bill might be in¬ 
troduced to tell all that is worth telling. 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


61 


The line might be in smaller type than the 
main body of the bill, as has been shown 
in several bills printed on preceding pages. 

SPECIMEN IRISH BILL OF FARE. 

This specimen banquet bill from Ireland 
is very much like an American bill, and 
remarkable for being in plain English. 
There are too many kinds of meat for any 
use, as if they had learned that bad habit 
from our hotels, and it does not regard the 
vegetables worth naming; but the vege¬ 
tables over there are said to be poor and 
scanty—not like ours: 

Banquet given by the Mayor of London¬ 
derry (Sir R. McVicker, J. P.) to the Hon¬ 
ourable the Irish Society. The dinner was 
provided by Mr. James Johnston, a well- 

known local caterer, and served in Corpo¬ 
ration Hall: 

SOUPS. 

Clear Turtle, k la Reine. 

Green Pea 

PTSH. 

Turbot—Lobster Sauce 
Salmon—Parsley and Butter. 

Fillets of Soles, & la Maitre d’Hotel. 
ENTREES. 

Lobster Cutlets. Lamb Cutlets and Peas. 
Sweetbreads—Mushroom Sauce. 

Veal Cutlets — Cucumber Sauce. 
REMOVES. 

Roast Chicken Roast Turkey Poults. 

Roast Beef. Roast Haunches Mutton. Roast Lamb. 
Boiled Chicken. Green Goose. 

Hams. Tongues. 

Grouse—Lobster Salad. 
ENTREMETS. 

Marmalade Pudding. Fig Puddings. 

Sultana Pudding. Jellies. Victoria Cream. 
Apple and Greengage Tarts. 

DESSERT. 

Pineapples, Grapes, Greengages, Melons, Apples, 
Pears, Plums, etc. 

ICES. 

Lemon Water and Strawberry Cream. 


SPECIMEN ENGLISH COMMERCIAL HOTEL 

BILL. 

Somebody in an English city has opened 
a hotel specially for the commercial trav¬ 
elers’ trade (doesn’t say whether “sample 
rooms on the first floor,” or “the best in 


town”), and this is one of the bills of fare 
of the dinner served at fifty cents: 

SOUPS. 

Mock Turtle, Julienne, Vermicelli. 

FISH. 

Salmon, Halibut, Stewed Eels. 

JOINTS. 

Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding, 

Boiled Leg Lamb, Ducklings, Spring Chickens, 

Pigeon Pies. 

ENTREES. 

Curried Rabbit, Fricasses of Chicken, 

Lamb Cutlets, Beef & la mode. 

LEGUMES. 

Potatoes, Peas, Spinach, Beans, Vegetable Marrow. 

ENTREMETS. 

Iced Venice Pudding', 

Raspberry and Red Currant Tart, 
Pineapple Fritters, Black Currant Pudding. 

CHEESE. 

Gruyere, Wensleydale, Cheddar. 

SALAD. 

Cheese and salad are expected to create 
a demand for ale and beer or hot cups of 
some kind. 

HOW MANY DISHES? 

A glance over a number of hotel bills of 
fare of the same date will show that a great 
difference of opinion exists on this point, 
even to go no farther than New York, for 
the makers of the bill of one large and 
wealthy establishment think it worth while 
to enumerate every kind of nuts and such 
small items, as well as all the sorts of cold 
meats besides a long list of entrees, while 
another presents only about one-third as 
many, and there is no reason to suppose 
that ideas of frugality form the leading mo¬ 
tive for the smaller display. But there is 
no doubt that it requires “more nerve” in 
a man to set out a small bill of fare while 
expecting to compete with another house 
displaying a very voluminous one, on ac¬ 
count the constitution of the general pub¬ 
lic, which is apt to look for quantity first, 
and the obtaining of a large amount for its 
money. The advocates for a fewer num¬ 
ber of dishes properly claim that it is in 
better taste and that a small number of 
viands can be better cooked and served 
than the interminable list of things pro- 






62 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


mised by some bills, and that a freshness 
in the daily change of dishes is attainable 
with a small list that is not possible when 
everything appears in the bill at once, day 
after day. It used to be urged in favor of 
the long lists of the great hotels, especially 
of the seaport cities, that they offered in 
their great variety something to suit the 
national taste of every foreign visitor; that 
the cooking was of a cosmopolitan char¬ 
acter and each guest could select from the 
abundance offered to suit himself, not be¬ 
ing restricted to the limited offerings of 
fare provided for the provincial customer 
But of late years it has become a feature 
of the business for every large hotel to 
have a restaurant attached, some have two, 
called respectively restaurant and cafe , so 
that whoever is not fully satisfied with the 
hotel table can indulge his particular habits 
and fancies at one of these. The sound 
policy in regard to this question, as in 
many others, lies in the adoption of the 
golden mean, though some hotel men like 
to run to extremes. One says: “If I must 
provide forty pounds of meat I may as 
well have ten different kinds of four pounds 
each as to have but two of twenty pounds 
each, and in the same way he says it is as 
easy to have a little of ten different vege¬ 
tables as to have much of only two kinds, 
and the six pies may as well be of six dif¬ 
ferent sorts as to be all of one; then every¬ 
body can have what they like best and it 
makes no difference to me.” But that old 
argument is fallacious. There is just 
enough truth in it to warrant a reasonable 
variety in the dinner, but, in fact, the ex¬ 
pensiveness of a meal increases according 
to the increase of the number of different 
items; there is a certain inevitable waste in 
every separate operation in cooking; a 
portion of everything will be left over and 
lost, instead of a portion of only one or 
two things, and the more things are offered 
the more some of the guests will order, if 
only to “sample” and waste them. 

It is in favor of a reasonable variety in 
the viands to remember that some kinds 
must cost less than others, and every order 


made on the cheaper dish lessens the run 
upon the dearer one, and, again, it often 
happens that the cooking capacity of a 
place is not sufficient to provide enough of 
the one or two articles and half a dozen 
more of other sorts must come in to divide 
the calls; the same reasons obtain when 
the favorite article cannot be procured in 
sufficient quantity to stand all the pressure 
alone, then it has to be offset with some¬ 
thing else almost equally in demand. 
These considerations, and others like them, 
have far more weight with those practically 
engaged in the preparation of the meals 
than any ideas of whether a greater or less 
display is in the better taste. 

ONE SOUP OR TWO? 

The soup question is one, again, of “gas- 
tronomical education.” The general pub¬ 
lic, as we know it by hotel contact, de¬ 
mands thick soup, and all thin soups, clear 
soups, consommes, are repelled as insults 
to a good appetite, as signs of stinginess, 
as “dishwater.” But writers like Sir Henry 
Thompson, author of “Food and Feeding,” 
are opposed to thick soups, especially to 
cream soups, at least as preliminary to a 
dinner, because they take the appetite away. 
And yet thick soups are very good indeed, 
and among the best things which the best 
cooks can produce, and the cream soups 
are the prime favorites; it is not the soup, 
but the proper use of it which should be 
considered. An impecunious or frugal- 
minded man with fifteen cents in his 
pocket may step into a Chicago restaurant 
in the proper season and obtain for that 
sum a bowl of genuine turtle soup, of more 
than a pint, thick with meat, and a plate of 
bread accompanying it, and of that he 
makes a meal, a good wholesome meal, 
and walks out unburdened by over-feeding 
and in good trim for business or labor. 
But if, after the soup, even though in small 
quantity, he should seriously set himself to 
consume his share of a complete hotel din¬ 
ner he would do himself an injury, and if 
the dinner were his primary object he should 
take only a thin soup, the thinner the better. 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


63 


The human stomach will hold but a 
quart of semi-solid food, but liquids are ab¬ 
sorbed and out of the way immediately. 
Doctor Andrew Coombe, himself a victim 
of hereditary dyspepsia, some forty years 
ago went to a French watering-place to 
study the subject of the “Stomach and its 
Difficulties,” and seeing how some patients 
would drink as much as ten pints of spring 
water before breakfast and then without 
any diminution of appetite would straight¬ 
way go and eat a full meal, understood 
that the water was immediately absorbed 
through the coats of the stomach and did 
not interfere with its capacity to hold solid 
food. People who are gastronomically 
educated act upon such knowledge, and 
take only a small quantity of clear soup or 
consomme , which is sufficiently thin to be 
soon absorbed, as a preparation of the 
stomach for a full meal to follow, or else, 
if they take a thick soup, they make a meal 
of that, at least in part. The hotel table, 
well provided, offers two soups, a thick 
and a thin one, and the diners choose as 
they please. The mistaken notion should 
not be entertained, however, that the thin 
soup is cheap; as it is made by the best 
cooks it is quite expensive, partly because 
it is a strong essence of meat, a sort of 
beef tea with all solid particles removed 
from it, and partly because of the large 
amount of white eggs wasted in clarifying 
it to that very transparent and brandy-like 
thinness which so many of our patrons 
condemn it for. And, again, when there 
is no particular need of adding to the num¬ 
ber of dishes merely for style, one soup is 
sufficient, and that should be a thick one, 
as the hotel table will gain the more credit 
for it. But hotel providers often run to 
extremes in this line, also, and serve abom¬ 
inable mixtures as thick as porridge, 
messes that can be taken up on a knife 
point. That is not what is meant by 
thick soups so much as is having soups 
with something in them; neatly cut pieces 
of meat or vegetables, of clams and po 
tatoes, of fried crusts or sippets; not p. r- 
ridge, but soups with morsels to be found 


with the spoon and enjoyed because the 
appetite is then fresh and keen. That is 
the motive as well with clear soups, the 
consomme with green peas or asparagus 
tips. If the soup is worth serving at all, 
there should be at least a third of a plate¬ 
ful, if not half; let the people leave a little 
if they will, but the mere spoonful that just 
covers the plate, as served in some places, 
affords no satisfaction to anybody, not even 
to the cook, who knows that there is not 
enough in such a portion to allow his 
efforts at a skillfull combination to be 
appreciated. But, of course, if vour soup 
is bad the less you serve the better. 

HOW MANY KINDS OF FISH? 

Probably, in pursuance of a desire to 
please everybody 7 , it would be best to have 
two kinds of fish, as a baked and a boiled; 
a fish in fillets with tomato or Spanish 
sauce, and another whole with only the 
simple melted butter. Ordinarily, it must 
be allowed, one kind is enough, while yet 
there are fishing resorts and other places 
peculiarly situated where several dishes of 
fish have to be offered daily. When serv¬ 
ing fish as only a part of the hotel regular 
dinner two-ounce portions are enough un¬ 
less some person wishes to pass the middle 
or latter courses of the dinner by and re¬ 
quests a full order. 

HOW MANY ENTREES? 

While, very often, it is a difficult matter 
to find materials to make a given number 
of entrees or made dishes every day, and 
cooks are glad to run in very common and 
useless dishes merely to fill up the list, still 
at other times a number of small meats 
and remainders of poultry and game are left 
on hand that will make excellent dishes 
for this list, but could not be utilized other¬ 
wise, so that there are motives of economy 
as well as excellence of the table in favor 
of keeping up a medium sized list of en¬ 
trees. Three or four entrees each day is 
about the right number. 








64 


TIIE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


HOW MANY VEGETABLES? 

If a profusion of dishes be excusable 
anywhere it should be in the line of vege¬ 
tables, and every improvement in the 
methods of cooking them should be en¬ 
couraged both from motives of economy 
and of health. And on general principles 
the consumption of vegetables should be 
encouraged, instead of meat, as tending to 
reduce the cost of living. A wide field for 
the exercise of the cook’s art exists in the 
richness of our American vegetable pro¬ 
ducts, and it has not been worked out as 
meat and pastry cooking have, but affords 
plenty of room for new methods to be 
introduced. There should be six or eight 
vegetables each day and different ways of 
cooking some of them introduced almost 
as often. 

HOW MANY KINDS OF PASTRY? 

The extraordinary fondness of Americans 
for pie, so often remarked upon, is only 
apparent, not real. We like the pastry de¬ 
partment just as well as any other nation 
of people does, and no better; the reason 
why pie appears so prominent is because 
we call those things pie, which the English 
and French call by other names, conse¬ 
quently we have ten times as many pies 
(so called) as they have. The English pie 
has always a top crust; the things which 
we call corn-starch pie, lemon pie, custard 
pie, and the like, they make the same way 
in a deep dish, with a thin bottom crust of 
paste, and call them puddings, or, if small, 
cheesecakes; and our open fruit pies they 
call tarts. There is an English cook book 
that contains recipes for making one thou¬ 
sand puddings, but a large proportion of 
them over here would be called pies; that 
is how it is we seem to be the only pie-eat¬ 
ing nation. For mere good living one 
kind of pudding or pie is sufficient, but 
from motives of policy the hotel table 
should be provided with two kinds, per¬ 
haps three—that is, a pudding, a covered 
pie and an open pie—and as ornamental 
considerations have the more weight to¬ 


wards the end of a dinner, when the appe¬ 
tite is not so obtrusive, it is as well to care 
a little for the contrasts in appearance of 
the pastry, and let a show’y meringue shine 
along with a dark fruit pie and a red cran¬ 
berry along w ith a white or yellow custard. 
The universal liking for ice creams, the 
ease of making them now with the im¬ 
proved freezers and universal supply of 
?ce, and the many varieties of such creams 
and frozen compounds now generally 
known, have almost driven out the favorite 
sweets of years ago. 


CONCLUSIONS AS TO THE AMERICAN 
DINNER BILL OF FARE. 

Some bills of fare of the best American 
hotels which appear to be quite wrong in 
arrangement when compared with French 
models are quite right according to Italian 
fashions. Some that are quite wrong ac¬ 
cording to the Italians are right according 
to the French. Those that are right ac¬ 
cording to one or both of them are wrong 
again according to German, or Spanish, or 
English, or Russian or other fashions. The 
only way to be right is to adopt an Ameri¬ 
can form of bill of fare and count all of 
them wrong in the degree that they depart 
from it. The conclusions to be drawn 
from the foregoing examples and com¬ 
ments are: 

1. There is a good form of Ameiican 
bill of fare already in use in the great ma¬ 
jority of our hotels, but better specimens 
of it can be had from any part of the United 
States than from New York City. 

2. It is necessary to have a top heading 
to the bill, and it is correct and quite op¬ 
tional to use either Bill of Fare, Menu, 
Dinner, or Table d'Hole. 

3. It is best, on account of the strange¬ 
ness of strange people in most hotels, to 
have headings to the divisions of the bill of 
fare, and nearly all foreign menus, except 
French fashionable party cards, set the 
same example; yet, if the hotel does not 
receive many strangers, headings are not 
required for regular residents. There is no 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


need of running to the extreme of big 
black letter headings in one case nor to a 
confused jumble of dhhes in the other. 

4. American preferences favor the pre¬ 
liminary course of raw oysters in the sea¬ 
son and clams as a substitute at other 
times, and most of the cold side dishes. 
The hot hors d'oeuvre to be eaten after the 
soup is not an American favorite in tha 1 ^ 
place and is not needed. It is found to be 
most convenient to place the oysters in a 
separate line preceding the soup and the 
cold hors d'oeuvres or side dishes after the 
soup, instead of the superfluous hot mouth¬ 
ful or bouchie. 

5. Good foreign sanction can be found 
for the above arrangement, and equally 
good authority in the French fashion for 
placing such side dishes as cucumbers, 
olives, celery, sliced tomatoes, etc., after 
the fish instead of after the soup, and some 
of the best American bills of fare show the 
preference of many hotel keepers for that 
arrangement, which is quite an optional 
matter and immaterial. 

6. The serving of fancy forms of po¬ 
tatoes with fish should be adopted as a part 
of the American fashion. 

7. The solid boiled and roasted meats, 
which the English put under the heading 
of “Joints,” should be placed in the Amer¬ 
ican bill of fare after the fish and before 
the entrees, because that is the order in 
which they are generally called for. If 
high foreign sanction is wanted it can be 
found in two out of the “three royal ex¬ 
amples” given i:i a former article, where 
the roasts come first, and also is the teach¬ 
ing of the French gastronomers that the 
plain and substantial dishes should come 
first. 

8. When game appears in its season it 
should be placed in the American bill un¬ 
der a separate “game” heading immedi¬ 
ately after the roast meats and before the 
entrees. 

9. The gratuitous sorbet or punch is an 
added luxury, but is in a general way detri¬ 
mental to the hotel keepers’ interests. If 
wanted in the bill it should be placed after 


U5> 

the roast meats in the table d'hote arrange¬ 
ments of dishes, for if placed lower down 
it only becomes a preliminary to the pastry,, 
seeing that most people take meats, entrees 
and vegetables all at one serving, and the 
punch should go with them or immediately 
after. This feature is never found in a 
fashionable English dinner. They have 
no use for punch anywhere but with turtle 
soup, unless, perhaps, instead of wine after 
dinner. 

Making allowance for the slight varia¬ 
tion caused by the insertion of “game.” the 
annexed, one of chef Theodore Pierrot’s 
Sunday bills, may be taken to show 

A REPRESENTATIVE AMERICAN-PLAN 
BILL OF FARE: 

HOTEL EMERT. 

DINNER. 

Sunday, March 1st , 1883. 

Soup. 

Bisque of Oysters Consomm4 Royal 
Fish. 

Filet of Sole h l’Orly 
Parisienne Potatoes 

Chow Chow Oliver 

Boiled. 

Ham and Cabbage Turkey, Oyster sauce 

Roast. 

Ribs of Beef 

Young Turkey stuffed, Cranberry Jelly 
Entrees. 

Sweetbreads braized aux petits Pois 
Deviled Crabs, Baltimore style 
Filet Mignon saute, sauce Madeira 

CARDINAL PUNCH. 

Game. 

Prairie Chicken en Salmi, sauce Mushrooms 
SALADS. 

Fresh Lettuce Chicken Mayonnaise 
V egetabi.es. 

Mashed Potatoes Boiled Potatoes 
Stewed Tomatoes Green Peas Stuffed Cabbage- 
Asparagus, Cream sauce 

Pastry. 

Mince Pie Peach Meringue Pie Pumpkin Pie. 
Queen Pudding, Wine Cream sauce 
Apple Dumplings, Family style 

Sago Pudding with Cream sauce 

Dessert. 

Vanilla Ice Cream Charlotte Russe 
Champagne Wine Jelly 
Assorted Fancy Cake 
Fruits Cheese Crackers 
Coffee 











TltE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


-66 


10. There should be two soups, but not 
of the same character; one should be clear, 
the other thick. 

11. The dishes regularly in a bill of 
-fare should be sufficient in number to give 
opportunities to use up small quantities of 
provisions and remnants of good things 
and to tax the ingenuity of the cooks, but 
beyond that there should be no lavishness. 

12. Many of the additions to our food 
known as relishes are real luxuries, and 
should be named in the bill in a line by 
themselves without a heading. 


LUNCH AND DINNER OR DINNER AND 
SUPPER? 

This question comes up whenever any 
hotel assumes the rank of first-class, and is 
often a very perplexing one, for a few in¬ 
sist that they must dine at about six or 
seven in the evening or never, and if that 
hour is adopted a greater number are made 
uncomfortable by it, for to dine in the 
middle of the day is natural (according to 
our national habits); to dine at night is 
artificial, the habit of the few who retire 
late at night and rise late in the morning. 
When the artificialists have their way, and 
the dinner hour is in the evening, a new 
contention arises, for then there is a lunch 
at mid-day, or about one o’clock, which for 
the hotel keeper’s interest ought to be a 
light and inexpensive meal, a cold repast, 
but then the plain-mannered people try 
their best to make their accustomed mid¬ 
day dinner out of it, and the hotel caterer 
is urged to have this thing and that, to the 
end that they may make a complete meal, 
and the result is apt to be that the hotel 
gives two expensive dinners every day in¬ 
stead of only one dinner and a light supper, 
and at last it settles down, in many places 
where the rates are high enough, to the 
setting out of four meals a day, or even 
five: breakfast, lunch, then dinner and 
supper, both nearly together at from five 
to seven o’clock, and, in the few places, to 
having both lunch and mid-day dinner and 
then late dinner and supper also. This is 
the state of the case as experience compels 


it, and we have but little to do with people’s 
motives, yet when it is left purely optional 
with the hotel proprietor there are some 
arguments in it worth thinking over. It 

is a positive fact that heavy dinners or sup- 

% 

pers are very unhealthy for people who go 
to bed at ordinary hours; the hotel man 
whose guests and boarders adopt such habits 
will have a lot of cross and uncomfortable 
people at breakfast times who cannot enjoy 
anything and cannot possibly be pleased. 
Those who eat meat dinners at night 
should remain up and in activity until 
twelve at least, and then take a cracker or 
slice of bread before retiring. But there is 
a business class of merchants and bankers 
who have no time for a regular formal 
dinner in the middle of the day, and a 
plausible reason in the necessity of the 
case can be given for them, but in the in¬ 
terests of good health and cheerfulness if 
they are to indulge in the profusion of the 
hotel dinner they should dine as early as 
possible—from five to six. A majority 
(but by no means all) of the really first- 
class hotels serve dinner in the evening, 
and take pains to publish it in their bill of 
fare as being the higher fashion, yet those 
who know all about the business are apt to 
doubt whether the guests really fare as 
well as under the other style. It costs 
more to have dinner at night; it keeps the 
cooking operations going on all day; there 
is no “let up” to hotel work until dinner is 
over, consequently dinner at night means 
late work as well as early, and more hands 
are required for it. Three, if not four, 
soups are required each day, and the in¬ 
ducement is strong to make the soup that 
is left over from lunch serve also for the 
evening dinner with only a change of 
name, and the same with roast meats and 
ice cream. When the proprietor, manager 
or steward is determined that the evening 
dinner shall be all fresh cooked he is care¬ 
ful to see that no more is cooked for lunch 
than will be consumed at once. The con¬ 
clusion is that the night dinner is not the 
best on general principles; where business 
considerations compel its adoption there is 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


67 


nothing lo be said, but where it is but a 
matter of choice, as in a great many resort 
hotels, the proprietor, manager or steward 
will find it best to lean towards the dinner 
in the middle of the day. In many cases 
all parties may be satisfied with the dinner 
hour at two, half past, or three o’clock, and 
only a light cold meat and hot bread sup¬ 
per afterwards. 

HOW MUCH FOR LUNCH? 

The hotel man, as already observed, will 
find himself pulling the other way from a 
great number of his guests who want to 
make a good square meal out of the one 
o’clock lunch, and as the waiters and cooks 
are disposed to be accommodating he may 
soon find that the lunch is bigger and cost¬ 
lier than the evening dinner if he does not 
act with firmness to keep it down, and with 
equal firmness to close the doors at the 
stated time, otherwise the lunch is the 
longest drawn out and least satisfactory of 
all meals; very few people can be satisfied 
with it in any case. 

This is a very fair example of a lunch 
bill of fare. It is from a New York hotel. 
The number of dishes offered is sufficient. 
Duration, from one to two o’clock: 

LUNCH . 

FROM I TO 2. 

SOUP. 

Cr£me a la Duchesse 
COLD MEATS. 

Turkey Beef Tongue Roast Beef 

HOT DISHES. 

Salmi of Venison, Champignons 
Chicken Rissoles 

SALADS. 

Mayonnaise de Volaille Cold Slaw 

Beets Salad a la Russe Potato 

RELISHES. 

Horse Radish Gherkins White Onions 
Olives Chow-Chow 

PASTRY AND PRESERVES. 

Quince Roll, Lemon Sauce 

Green Gage Plums Cake 

COFFEE TEA 

Dinner from 5:30 to 8. 

A 1 Dishes ordered not on Bill of Fare will be 
x charged k la Carte 

Tuesday, February 3, iSSS. 


Peculiar circumstances sometimes cause 
a deviation from general rules. The writei 
was once concerned in a place where the 
lunch was by four or five times a better 
meal than the evening dinner, both in the 
number of people and in the dishes served. 
It was a fine hotel at the end of a railroad 
which brought daily excursions at half 
past twelve, too early to have dinner in any 
first-class hotel, so, lunch it was called, and 
that being a pleasure resort, with a brass 
band playing, the lunches were immense, 
though the dinners were very modest 
affairs for only a few regulars. 

WHAT SORT OF DISHES FOR LUNCH? 

In the hotel cook books may be found 
sample lunch bills of fare which show how 
some hotels serve a number of breakfast 
dishes, such as hominy and milk, also 
baked beans, pigs’ feet, codfish balls, and 
various odds and ends to make up a good- 
sized list. In a general way those dishes 
may be chosen which, a'though good, 
seem hardly good enough or elaborate 
enough for a dinner entree; the salmi of 
venison in the specimen biil of fare shown 
in a preceding article of this series is an 
example. There is nothing wrong about 
it, yet we can but think it was only sliced 
venison with thin mushroom sauce; one 
would rather have birds of some kind for a 
salmi for dinner. Then all the hot hors 
d'oeuvres, which it is hard to find a place 
for in the dinner bill, are just right for 
lunch; the chicken rissoles of the above 
mentioned bill is an example in point. All 
sorts of salads come in place for lunch, and 
all sorts of cold ornamental dishes, galan¬ 
tines and cold raised pies or f&tes. Besides 
these, the same list to be found further on, 
of dishes suitable for supper, is equally 
applicable to the lunch bill of fare. This 
bill, like the dinner bill, is changed every 
day, and has to be either printed daily or 
written. 

The next is an example of the small bill 
of fare selected for children dining sepa¬ 
rately in care of nurses, in a large resort 
hotel where at least three times as many 














G8 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


dishes were served in the great dining room 
an hour later for the adults. 

A number of these bills will be found 
with lines and reading notices apparently 
superfluous for the object of these articles, 
especially the breakfast bills now to follow; 
they are given entire, however, to show 
the usages of good hotels in these respects, 
purely for information. 

HOTEL SAN MARCO , 

St. Augustine, Fla. 

children’s ORDINARY. 

DINNER, 

Sunday, - - - April io, 1887. 

SOUP. 

Chicken Consomro6 

FISH. 

Boiled bass 

BOILED. 

Mutton 

ROAST. 

Ribs of beef 

ENTREES. 

Pineapple fritters Macaroni, & l’ltalienne 

VEGETABLES. 

Mashed potatoes Stewed tomatoes 

Baked sweet potatoes 

COLD. 

Tongue Ham Roast Beef 
Lobster Salad 

PASTRY AND DESSERT. 

Baked Indian pudding 
Lime meringue pie Appple pie 
Assorted cake Strawberry ice cream 

Apple sauce 

Crackers Nuts Raisins 

COFFEE. 


THE BREAKFAST BILL OF FARE. 

The common custom is to print the 
breakfast and supper bills in advance, per¬ 
haps a thousand at a time, and endeavor to 
have every dish that is named each morn¬ 
ing or else mark it off. Where the hotel 
keepers and stewards are progressive and 
the additional expense of printing is not an 
obstacle a newly corrected bill is printed 
for every meal and a smaller list is suf¬ 
ficient, there always being something fresh 
to expect. Comparatively few of those 


who have had experience with the dinner 
bill and its daily changes have had much 
practice in changing the breakfast and sup¬ 
per lists, and many wflll find it hard to 
think of new dishes to change with, and 
for their convenience a list of suitable 
dishes is given in the pages following these 
example bills. 

PE ABODE HOTEL . 

BREAKFAST. 

Fruit in Season 

Oat Meal Cracked Wheat Grits 

FISH. Fried or Broiled Fresh Fish 

Boiled or Broiled Salt Mackerel 

BROILED. Mutton Chops 

Sirloin Steak, Plain, with Onions, Tomato or 
Creole Sauce 

Ham Bacon Calves’ Liver Tripe 

FRIED. Veal Cutlets, Breaded Kidneys 
Ham Sirloin Steak, with Brown Gravy 
Calves’ Liver, with Salt Pork Corned Beef Hash 
Hamburg Steak Mush Sausage 

STEWED. Mutton Kidneys Tripe 

EGGS. Fried Boiled Poached 
Shirred Scrambled 
Omelets, Plain, with Parsley, Cheese, 
Onions or Jelly 

COLD. Roast Beef Roast Mutton 

Corned Beef Boiled Ham 

POTATOES. French Fried Stewed in Cream 
Lyonaise Boiled Saute 

BREADS, ETC. French, Vienna, Cream 

Graham, Corn and Plain Bread 
French Rolls Graham Muffins Corn Muffins 
Toast Crackers 

Corn, Wheat and Buckwheat Griddle Cakes 

SYRUP. Maple White Rock 

New Orleans Molasses 

COFFEE CHOCOLATE TEA MILK 


HOURS FOR MEALS. 

Breakfast, 7-11. Dinner, 1-4. Supper, 6-9. 

SUNDAY. 

Breakfast, 7:30-11. Dinner, 1:30~4. Supper, 6-9. 

CHILDREN AND NURSES. 

Breakfast, 7. Dinner, 1. Supper, 6 

The first is from a hotel that prints a 
new supper bill every evening, but has 
this, its breakfast bill, stationary. Any 




















THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


69 


hotel keeper or steward who may be in the 
act of choosing a form of bill for a new 
hotel or other beginning will find use for 
all the particulars of headings, hours for 
meals, notices and all such particulars 
which are much better shown than written 
about. 

BREAKFAST. 

FRUIT. 

Wheat Flakes Oat Meal Wheaten Grits 
FISH. 

Salt Mackerel Fish Balls 

Broiled or Fried Fresh Fish 

BROILED. 

Beefsteak Ham Lamb Chops 
Breakfast Bacon 


FRIED. 

Ham Rasher of Bacon Tripe 
Frankfort Sausage 

Stewed or Fried Pigs’ Feet Stewed Kidneys 

Smoked- Beef with Eggs or Cream 

EGGS. 

Boiled Fried Scrambled Poached on Toast 
Omelets, plain, with Cheese, Parsley and Jelly 

COLD MEATS. 


BREAKFAST. 


FRUIT. 

Oat Meal and Grits with cream 


Greed, English, Breakfast and Japan Teas 
Coffee and Chocolate 


BROILED. 

Beefsteak, Plain, Tomato Sauce or Onions 
Veal Cutlets, Plain or Breaded 
Mutton Chops, Plain, Breaded or with Tomato Sauce 
Lamb Chops Calf’s Liver Mutton Kidneys 
Ham Tripe Breakfast Bacon 
Pigs’ Feet, Plain or in Batter 


COLD. 

Lamb Tongues Roast Beef Smoked Tongues 
Pressed Corn Beef 


FISH. 

Broiled or Fried Trout Sheephead Redfish 
Croaker Redfish Courtbouillon 
Tenderloin of Trout, Sauce Tartar 
Salt Fish with Cream. 

Codfish Balls Salt Mackerel 

EGGS. 

As Ordered 


POTATOES. 

Baked Hashed with Cream French Fried 

BREAD, ETC. 

Corn Muffins Graham Bread 
French Rolls Toast Plain Bread 

Oolong and English Breakfast Tea 
Coffee Chocolate Cocoa 


Saratoga Chips, 

Lyonaise Baked and Stewed Potatoes 
Broiled, Raw, Stewed and Fried Oysters 


Stewed Kidneys, Tripe and Corned Beef Hash 
Sausages 


HOURS FOR MEALS. 

Breakfast 7 to 9. Dinner 1 to 3. Supper 6 to 8. 
NURSES AND CHILDREN: 

Breakfast 7. Dinner 12:30. Supper 5:30. 


Fried Hominy Boston Brown Bread 

Vienna and French Rolls Egg Muffins 
Graham and Plain Bread Dry and Milk Toast 

Buckwheat Cakes Maple Syrup Honey 


An extra charge for dishes ordered not on the 
Bill of Fare. 

The second of these bills is from a hotel 
that prints a new bill for every breakfast, 
making the changes on wheat flakes, cere- 
aline, hominy grits, graham farina, cracked 
wheat mush, rolled avena, and all the 
names which the manufacturers and mer¬ 
chants invent for such farinaceous wares; 
that is for the first line, and all the others 
are similarly changed, especially the styles 
of potatoes and breads and the entrees. 


Breakfast Wines. 


SAUTERNES. Pts. Qts. 
Haute Sauterne.. .$1 00 $2 00 
La Tour Blanche... 2 00 .... 

Sauterne.1 00 2 00 


CLARETS. Pts. Qts. 

St. Julien.$0 75 $1 25 

Chateau Bouiliac... 75 1 25 

St. Estephe. 75 1 25 


Breakf ist from 6 to 9:30 Dinner from 1 to 3 
Supper, 6 to 9. 

Breakfast on Sunday, 8:00 to 10:30 
Dinner “ “ 2:00 to 4:00 
Supper “ “ '6:30 to 9:00 

Dishes ordered not on this Bill will be 
charged extra. 

































70 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


The third breakfast bill shows another 
style. It is the winter breakfast bill of a 
large New Orleans hotel, one of the best 
in the South, printed a thousand at a time 
and showing a rich variety, but yet has two 
blank lines left to write in any novelty or 
fresh acquisition from the markets. The 
list of breakfast wines accords with the 
customs in that part of the country. 

“THE SAN MARCO .” 

BREAKFAST. 

Oranges 

Tea Coffee Chocolate Shells Hominy 

Oatmeal mush Hot rolls Dry and Cream toast 

FISH. 

Broiled shad Smoked herring 
Smoked salmon Codfish balls Codfish and cream 
Codfish hash Fried oysters 
Stewed oysters Broiled salt mackerel 
BROILED AND FRIED. 

Sirloin steak Bacon Mutton chops Veal cutlets 
Venison steak Pickled tripe 

Liver Sausages Ham 
Pickled pig’s feet 

Mutton chops, breaded, tomato sauee 
Stewed tripe Stewed chicken 

Veal cutlets, breaded, tomato sauce 

Corned beef hash Fried hominy 

Fried Indian meal mush 
Stewed kidneys Fried bananas 

EGGS. 

Boiled Fried Scrambled Poached Omelettes 
POTATOES. 

Baked French fried Saratoga Lyonnaise 
Hashed browned Plashed, with cream 
Baked and fried sweet 

Gridle cakes Buckwheat cakes 

Maple Syrup 

The fourth is the breakfast bill of one of 
the finest winter resort hotels in Florida, 
under northern management. This is a 
stock bill of fare, printed a thousand at a 
time, but has a style of its own and is de¬ 
void of notices or any extraneous additions. 


THE SHERWOOD . 

BREAKFAST. 

TOMATOES 

BAKED APPLES FRUITS STEWED PRUNES 

OATMEAL HOMINY CRACKED WHEAT 

BREAD, CAKES, ETC. 

French Rolls Graham Rolls English Muffins 
Boston Brown Bread Corn Bread 
Rye Bread Rice Cakes Wheat Muffins 
Rice Muffins Indian Cakes Crumpets 
Wheat Cakes 

FISH. 

Salt Codfish with cream Fish Balls 

Baltimore Roe Herring Salt Mackerel 
Codfish Hash Smoked Salmon Smelts 
Shad Codfish steak 

broilp:d. 

Beefsteak Ham Pig’s Feet broiled 
Mutton Chops Veal Cutlets Breakfast Bacon 
Mutton Kidneys Calf’s Liver and Bacon 
Chicken Pork Chops 
Chicken Livers en brochette 

STEWED. 

Mutton kidneys with mushrooms 

Chicken Livers with mushrooms 
Clams Oysters Roast Beef Hash Chicken Hash 
Corned Beef Hash 

FRIED. 

Hominy Mush Deerfoot Farm Sausages 
Oysters Scollops 

EGGS. 

Boiled Scrambled Poached Fried 
Shirred Omelet 

POTATOES. 

Baked Hashed with cream Fried 
Lyonnaise Sautees 

Breakfast, 7 to 11. Lunch, 1 to 2. 

Dinner, 6 to 7:30. Supper, 9 to 11:30. 

The fifth, a New York City hotel bill, 
with a list as rich and abundant as any, 
shows different ways of grouping the ar¬ 
ticles together and is suggestive of many 
suitable breakfast dishes. Nothing could 
show so well as this bill how much work 
must be done in a hotel before breakfast. 
Undoubtedly there are too many dishes 
offered in all but one or two of these bills, 
still, as a good many of them are not 
cooked until ordered the destruction of 
provisions is not quite as serious as it looks. 

Manifestly the proper rule in composing 
the breakfast bill is to place the dishes in 
the order that they are eaten by the gen¬ 
erality of people. It is the custom, and 

















THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


n 


the fashion, too, to eat fruit as a beginning, 
and then oatmeal or hominy or cracked 
wheat with cream; only small portions are 
served. After that the fish, meats, eggs 
and potatoes and bread are selected from 
all at once, and it makes little difference 
except for the appearance of the bill what 
order they are printed in, but waffles, crum¬ 
pets, and all kinds of griddle cakes are 
eaten last and should appear last in the 
bill, as they do in most of the examples. 
The San Marco bill is the best model as 
regards the arrangement of different classes 
of dishes. 

ABOUT THE AMERICAN BREAKFAST. 

There is no French pattern for the 
American breakfast bill; the French do 
not know anything about any such break¬ 
fasts as our hotels set out. The English 
have some idea of it, for they believe in 
taking a tolerably substantial meal to begin 
the day upon, but their ideas of what some¬ 
thing substantial consists of do not reach 
up anywhere near the displays of actual 
meals in the five breakfast bills of the fore¬ 
going pages. The French custom is to 
take a light breakfast of coffee or chocolate 
and rolls or bread, and defer the eating of 
a hearty meal until the middle of the day; 
the English expect for breakfast, besides 
the coffee or tea, a chop, or bacon and 
eggs, bot rolls from the bakers, and butter, 
or toast with some sort of appetizing addi¬ 
tion such as potted tongue, anchovies or 
marmalade, and that is thought to be a 
sufficiently plentiful meal to last until 
lunch at noon; dinner taking place at two 
or three o’clock and a cold supper some 
time between candle-lighting and bed-time, 
according to the habits of the family, and 
the same form prevails in the hotels. 

Without leaving our proper domain and 
going into that of the doctor’s it may at 
least, be asserted that our people eat too 
much for good health and at the wrong 
times. Could anybody reasonably contend 
that such an immense number and variety 
of viands are necessary as appear on the 
third, fourth and fifth breakfast bills pro¬ 


ceeding? And yet a necessity of a certain 
kind does exist, it is the business necessity 
which obliges the hotel keepers to try to 
please people who, having eaten too much 
the day and night before, have no real 
healthy appetite for breakfast, but pick 
around, find fault, and imagine that if there 
was only something else which is not there 
they could eat; that oysters stewed and fried 
are perhaps very good, but as for them they 
can never eat them any way but broiled, and 
while the friend at their right must have 
fresh fish, yet criticises the shad for its 
bones—for their part if all the fishes of the 
sea were there they can only pick a bit of 
smoked salmon. While such an unreason¬ 
able demand for quantity exists the de¬ 
mand will be supplied. 

“My dear Careme,” once said the Prince 
Regent to his famous chef\ “your dinner 
yesterday was superb. Everything you 
gave me was delicious, but you will make 
me die of indigestion.” 

“Mon Prince,” returned Careme, bowing 
low, “my duty is to flatter your appetite,, 
not to control it.” 

There is no doubt, however, that it is 
frequently the case in our hotels that the 
hotel man, the proprietor, manager or 
steward, as the case may be, has it quite 
within his own control to provide a small 
but excellent spread instead of such an 
overgrown catalogue as those shown. It 
is sometimes ill-naturedly charged that 
these bills of fare are not true representa¬ 
tions of the actual meals, that a large por¬ 
tion of the dishes are “ crossed off ” before 
the bill goes to table. In fact, there is 
nothing more distasteful to the hotel keeper 
or steward than to have a “scratched” bill 
go to the table, and great trouble is often 
taken and considerable expense to obtain 
some scarce article, not so much because 
it is really needed as because it is on the 
bill of fare. So where it is optional, or 
nearly so, with the hotel man whether he 
will make out a big list of dishes or a small 
one he should limit the number to a rea¬ 
sonable amount, and limit the styles pi 
cooking, loo; for the more ways of cook- 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ing allowed the more utensils, more hands 
(or more haste), the more previous prepara¬ 
tion and more waste. Whatever else may 
be said of the hotel breakfast, it is, unless 
under very good management, the most 
wasteful meal of all, chiefly through the 
propensity of the guests to order and leave 
things which they have not the appetite to 
•eat, and in a great measure through the 
number of things offered necessitating the 
preparation of so many steaks, chops, pota¬ 
toes, breads, fruits, pieces of fish and the 
whole list according, which, if not used, are 
the more liable to be lost through being so 
prepared. 

A SMALL PATTERN, BUT SUFFICIENT. 

Rather than be compelled to include al¬ 
most everything in a stock bill of fare, and 
to cross off several dishes each morning 
because unattainable, it is better to name 
too few; have the bill printed with a blank 
line or two, and write in something special 
every morning. It may be chicken or 
oysters, perhaps, in some places, but if only 
one kind of hash (the New York breakfast 
bill has three) it will be better thought of 
for being special that day than many of 
the stock dishes already printed in. This 
•example shows the form: 

BREAKFAST. 


FRUIT 


COFFEE TEA HOMINY OATMEAL 


FISH. 

SALT FISH AND CREAM FRESH FISH 

BROILED MACKEREL CODFISH BALLS 


BROILED AND - FRIED. 

SIRLOIN STEAK LAMB CHOPS 

BREAKFAST BACON BROILED HAM 

FRIED SALT PORK BROILED TRIPE 


EGGS. 

BROILED FRIED SCRAMBLED OMELETTES 


COLD. 

HAM TONGUE BEEF 


POTATOES. 

BAKED LYONNAISE FRIED 


FRENCH ROLLS HOT CORN BREAD 

DRY TOAST, MILK TOAST, BUTTERED TOAST. 


As a commentary upon the absurd pro¬ 
fuseness of the American hotel breakfast 
these bills of fare, from one of the Penin¬ 
sular and Oriental Royal Mail steamships, 
are appended. It is true they do not enu¬ 
merate the breads, coffee and vegetables, 
but neither do they offer many varieties of 
meats or fish, or of porridge, or miscel¬ 
laneous ways of cooking. 

BILLS OF FARE. 


P. & O. ss. “Thames” (at sea between Gibraltar 
and Plymouth.) 

BREAKFAST. 

Porridge 
Fried Fish 
Mutton Chops 
Minced Collops 
Grilled Bacon 
Scrambled Eggs 
Curry and Rice 
Cold Ham 


LUNCHEON 

Soused Herrings a la Sardine 
Corned Brisket, Roast Mutton 
Bologna Sausages, Galantine of Veal 
Salad 

Mashed Potatoes, Cheese, Buns 

DINNER. 

Soup —Green Pea 

Fish —Salmon Cutlets k la Maitre d’Hotel 
Joint —Roast Beef and Horse-radish Sauce 
Entrees —Rissoles of Pheasant k la Pompadour 
Macaroni h l’ltalienne 
Poultry —Roast Capon and Ham 
CuRRY—Mutton 
Pastry —Lemon Jelly 
Almond Custard 
Plum Pudding 

Therein may be found, likewise, good 
sanction for a class of “breakfast entrees,” 
such as our sample bills show; there are 
minced collops, and curry and rice. Also, 
an idea for making curry a standing dish 
with a permanent heading, the kind of 
meat to be changed at will, tor dinner. 

















THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


73 


A SPECIAL BILL WHICH IS LARGE ENOUGH 
FOR ALL TIMES, 

PEABODT HOTEL. 

BREAKFAST. 


Sunday, May i 6 , 1SS6. 


Strawberries with Cream 


Oat Meal Cracked Wheat Grits 


BROILED— 

Spanish Mackerel, Maitre d’Hotel Sauce 
Duchesse Potatoes 

Spring Chicken, Water Cress 
French Fried Potatoes 


EGGS— Fried Omelets Boiled 

Shirred Poached 


BREAD, ETC- 

French Rolls Graham Muffins 

Corn Muffins Brioches 

Wheat Cakes Corn Cakes 

Coffee Chocolate Tea 


THE AMERICAN SUPPER OR TEA. 

The same thing that has been done for 
the breakfast could not be done for the 
supper; that is, the presenting of a set of 
bills that fit alike all hotels in any part of 
the country, for while there is great uni¬ 
formity of practice in one respect there is 
extreme diversity in the other. The 
American breakfast is always a substantial 
meal; the supper may be anything to suit 
the place, or may not appear at all. The 
general American habit is to partake of 
only three meals a day: a good breakfast, 
a good dinner, a light supper. In many 
hotels, such as those in country towns and 
at resorts, houses that are not too fashion¬ 
able—that is to say, not too city-like—these 
healthful habits can be kept up; the hotel 
keeper provides a very plentiful dinner, all 
his assistants work hard for it, and after 
that all is quiet; the third meal of the day 
is easy. In the middle, southern and west¬ 
ern states it is called supper; in the north¬ 
ern section and in Canada it is called tea. 
In a great many hotels which make light 


of this meal the bill of fare is headed “Tea 
Card,’' and the guests are not encouraged 
to expect much from it. Before the rail¬ 
roads had spread all over the country it 
used to be a saying “the pastry cook makes 
the supper,” which meant that hot-breads, 
cakes and toast and, perhaps, baked pota¬ 
toes were all that would be especially 
cooked; cold meats, stewed fruit, coffee, 
tea and milk serving to complete the meal. 
Hotel proprietors used to be divided in two 
classes: those who gave hot beefsteak for 
supper and those who did not, and there 
was a subdivision of those who gave hot 
beefsteak every night except Sunday and 
those who gave it every night in the year, 
Sunday making no difference. The only 
other hot dish allowed in the beefsteak 
houses was boiled salt mackerel. But there 
was great choice of breads, rolls, rusks, 
coffee cakes, coiled buns, corn-bread, muf¬ 
fins, ginger-bread, buttermilk, biscuits, 
beaten biscuits, waffles, batter cakes, toast 
and cold bread of several varieties. 

One reason why the hotel supper has 
changed from the old simple style is found 
in the arrival of railroad trains at supper 
time; the travelers coming to the hotel 
must have a good meal, and the supper 
bill is almost equal to the breakfast bill 
shown a little way back. The broiled steak 
and boiled mackerel are found there as of 
old, but in addition there are chops and 
cutlets, fried fresh fish, spare-ribs, eggs, 
oysters, chicken—more things than we 
care to enumerate. Another cause is the 
desire of a few in almost every town to 
dine at supper time instead of mid-day, 
when the hotel keeper, not caring to change 
his hours to please a few, sets out a supper 
bounteous enough to allow them to call it 
dinner if they please. The annexed 
example is the very moderate bill of fare 
of a very large hotel which is in exactly 
the above described position, the regular 
dinner being served at from one to three 
and no dinner in the evening, unless spe¬ 
cial for a party. This is, as far as it goes, 
an excellent pattern, the better because it 
allows so few varieties of hot meats. 















74 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SUPPER. 

Vienna Coffee Chocolate 

Japan and Gunpowder Tea 
Sweet Milk 

French Rolls Johnny Cake 

Saratoga Rolls 

Graham, Rye and Wheat Bread 

Broiled Sirloin Steak 
Fried Black Fish 

Eggs—Boiled, Fried, Shirred, Scrambled 
Omelettes Plain, with Parsley, Onions 
Tomatoes or Ham 


French Fried Potatoes 

Saratoga Chips Baked Irish Potatoes 

Pearl Grits 

Cold Roast Beef Cold Roast Mutton 

Cold Corned Beef Cold Smoked Tongue 

Cold Boiled Ham 

Beet and Cabbage Salad Potato Sala i 


Assorted Small Cakes 
Frozen Tapioca Custard 


Articles taken or sent from the table, and dishes or¬ 
dered not on this Bill of Fare, will posi¬ 
tively be charged for extra. 

RISING EQUAL TO THE EMERGENCY. 

For a hotel in a large and growing city, 
where bankers and merchants who would 
like dinner to be in the evening if it were 
convenient, are numerous among the 
guests, and where the trains bring many 
passengers; also at those resorts where 
many people of fashion contend in favor of 
the late dinner, the happiest combination 
of a supper with some dinner dishes added 
is this in practice at the hotel named below. 
It is the conception of the accomplished 
steward of that house, Mr. George Fulwell, 
who is a specialist in bills of fare, taking as 
much pleasure in the development of ideas 
in that particular line as some men do in 
producing a new variety of fruit and others 
do in carrying off the honors at the exhib¬ 
itions; but he has paid attention to this 
branch and knows how to put his practical 
knowledge of the steward’s business to 
account in suiting the tastes and conveni¬ 
ence of all the patrons of the hotel alike. 


PEABODT HOTEL , 

Memphis, Tenn. 

SUPPER. 

Cerealine Porridge 

ENTREES—Broiled Veal Chops 

Stewed Turkey Giblets, with Peas 
Ragout of Mutton, with Tomatoes 

Blanquette of Rabbit, Milanaise 

Fried Codfish Balls 

COLD—Roast Beef Roast Duck 

Venison Salad 

EGGS—Shirred Boiled Scrambled 

Omelets, with fine herbs 

POTATOES—Baked Saratoga Chips 

German Fried 

BREAD, ETC.—French Cream Graham Plain: 
Vienna Rolls Tea Biscuits Toast 

Rye Griddle Cakes 

SYRUPS—Maple White Rock 

New Orleans Molasses 

Coffee Tea Milk 

Preserved Cranberries and Assorted Cakes 


HOURS FOR MEALS. 

Breakfast, 7-11. Dinner, 1-4. Supper, 6-9. 
SUNDAY. 

Breakfast, 7.30-11. Dinner, 1.30-4. Supper, 6-9. 
CHILDREN AND NURSES. 

Breakfast, 7. Dinner, 1. Supper, 6. 
Tuesday, January 3, 1S88. 


SUPPER. 

Oat Meal Porridge 

OYSTERS—Stewed Fried 

ENTREES—Broiled Pig’s Feet 

Fried Veal Cutlets, Robert Sauce 

Stewed Kidneys, Madeira Sauce 

Braised Beef, with Mushroom? 

COLD—Venison Pork 

Mutton Salmon Salad 

POTATOES—Baked Hollandaise 

Saratoga Chips 

BREAD, ETC.—French Graham Cream Plain 
Finger Rolls Currant Coiled Buns 

Toast Flannel Griddle Cakes 

SYRUPS—Maple White Rock 

New Orleans Molasses 

Coffee Tea Milk 

Canned California Cherries and Assorted Cakesr 
Wednesday, January 4 . iSSS. 





























THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 


75 


Two of these bills of succeeding dates 
are printed to show where the changes 
come in. It will be observed that this is 
far in advance of the regular stock bill of 
fare, in being a fresh composition printed 
daily and changed in nearly every partic¬ 
ular, yet without depriving the guests of 
their accustomed favorite dishes; the hotel 
does not abandon the mid-day dinner 
which the greater number of people like 
best, but changes the make-up of the sup¬ 
per without adding to the number of dishes 
so that they can dine at night who wish to 
do so. There is no beefsteak, therefore 
fewer loins of beef to cut up; and no soup 
to be re-christened from a mid-day lunch, 
but there are eggs one evening and oysters 
the next; the potatoes, breads, cold meats 
and supper fruit are all changed about, just 
enough to give freshness and variety with¬ 
out depriving any person of the regular 
diet of rolls, baked potatoes or batter cakes. 
In those hotels where the dinner hour is 
changed to evening the greatest discontent 
is occasioned by the disappearance from the 
menu of h t rolls and biscuits, fried pota- 
oes and batter cakes, and, be the dinner 
never so plentiful, nothing that can be of¬ 
fered can quite make up the loss to those 
who have been in the habit of eating and 
enjoying those popular articles of diet for 
supper all their life. The new form of bill 
under consideration appears to be a compro¬ 
mise for all parties. A compromise used to 
be thought a good thing in the time of the 
great Henry Clay, and a compromise at one 
time was thought to be all that was needed 
to avert the war of secession; this com¬ 
promise bill of Mr. Fulwell’s by a parity of 
reasoning ought certainly to be effective in 
keeping the peace between the early and 
late dinner factions, even in a growing com¬ 
mercial city like Memphis. “Back num¬ 
bers” of these bills (for the system has been 
in satisfactory operation for several months) 
show variations in the plan of this expert, 
whose efforts to rise above the common* 
place are worthy of re-cognition especially 
in this land where gastronomical education 
is at present at a low stage and teachers are 
few. One sample more is inserted here with 
very good will towards the author: 


SUPPER. 


Tuesday, September 6, 18S7. 
Rolled Oats Porridge 

OYSTERS—Fried Stewed 


BROILED— 

Pig’s Feet Liver, with Breakfast Bacon 

FRIED—Croquettes of Veal, French Peas 

MISCELLAN EOUS— 

Braised Beef, with Vegetables 
Boiled Salt Mackerel Welsh Rare-Bit 


COLD—Roast Beef Roast Veal Chipped Beef 
Roast Chicken Corned Beef 
Italian Salad Sardines in Mustard 


POTATOES—Baked Saratoga Chips Provencale 

BREAD, ETC.—French, Graham, Vienna, Cream 
and Plain Bread 

Vienna Saltz Kipfel Rolls Cream Scones 
Toast Flemish Gridle Cakes 


SYRUPS— Maple White Rock 

New Orleans Molasses 


Coffee Chocalate Tea Milk 


French Prunes and Assorted Cakes 


PORRIDGE DISHES AVAILABLE FOR SUPPER 
AND BREAKFAST. 

Cornmeal Mush. 

Shredded Maize Porridge. 

Rolled Oat Porridge. 

Cracked Wheat Porridge. 

Rolled Avena Porridge. 

Cracked Wheat with Cream. 

Cerealine Porridge. 

Farina Mush and Milk. 

Home-made Hominy. 

Wheaten Grits. 

Pearl Grits. 

Stewed Wheat. 

Steamed Rice. 

Apple Tapioca ar.d Cream. 

Cracked Wheat with Milk. 

Oatmeal with Milk. 

Oatmeal Porridge. 

Mush with Milk. 

Graham Mush. 

Oatmeal with Cream. 

Graham Farina Porridge. 

Hominy Grits and Cream. 

Rice Grits and Milk. 

Wheat Flakes with Cream. 

Large Hominy and Milk. 

English Furmety. 

Cream Sago. 

Manioca Porridge. 


[A condensed description of the composition 
of every dish in these lists , which is not suffi¬ 
ciently apparent by its name , will be found 
in the Dictionary of Dishes , soon to f ollow .] 




















76 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


FISH ENTREES AVAILABLE FOR SUPPER 
AND BREAKFAST. 

Broiled and Fried Fish of all Kinds. 
Cutlets of Black Bass, Genoise Sauce. 
Salmon Steak, Sicilian Sauce. 

Fillets of Whitefish, Remoulade Sauce. 
Fondue of Fish. 

Scalloped Fish. 

Panned Perch with Bacon. 

Canned Salmon. 

Smoked Bluefish, Boiled. 

Spanish Mackerel, a la Maitre d’HOtel. 
Codfish Balls. 

Codfish Cakes. 

Picked-up Fish in Cream. 

Mackerel in Tomato Sauce. 

Sardines in Mustard. 

Sardines, Truffes. 

Barbecued Redfish. 

Baltimore Roe Herring. 

Salt Codfish in Cream. 

Codfish Steak. 

Codfish Hash. 

Broiled Salt Mackerel. 

Redfish Courtbouillon. 

Oregon Salmon. 

Mullet Roes, Fried. 

Smoked Salmon. 

Smoked Halibut. 

Smoked Haddock. 

Boiled Salt Mackerel. 

Smoked Herring. 

Trout Courtbouillon. 

Salmon with Parsley and Butter. 

Fillets of Soles, k la Maitre d’Hdtel. 
Baked Mullet, Fine Herbs. 

Baked Whitefish. 

Broiled Florida Trout. 

Broiled Pompano. 

Codfish Tongues on Toast. 

Fresh Shrimps. 

Potted Shrimps. 

Buttered Shrimps. 

Curried Shrimps. 

Curried Lobster. 

Anchovy Cakes. 

Shrimp Omelette. 

Potted Lobster on Toast. 

Sardines and Watercress. 

Scalloped Codfish. 

Smoked Finnan Haddock. 

Fried Slices of Cod. 

Anchovy Toast. 

Hot Boiled Crab. 

Sardines on Toast. 

Shrimp Pie. 

Shrimp Patt es. 

Broiled English Bloaters. 

Curri d Oysters. 

Fish Quenelles. 

Fish Croquettes. 

Lobster Cutlets. 

Fresh Fish in Cream. 

Fish Flakes, a la Bechamel. 


Boiled Codfish Palates. 

Curried Sardines. 

Bloaters in Batter. 

Shrimps and Boiled Rice. 

Scalloped Lobster. 

Fresh Herrings Stuffed. 

Broiled Kippered Salmon. 

Salmon and Macaroni. 

Stewed Mackerel. 

Lobster Rissoles. 

Herring Roe and Mushrooms. 

Lobster Creams. 

Dressed Crab. 

Anchovy Toast with Egg. 

Sardines en Caisse. 

Lobster a la Creme. 

Canapes of Sardines. 

Scalloped Shrimps. 

Sardine Sandwiches. 

Shrimp Canapes. 

\Other fish dishes ■with description of ail 
can he found in the dictionary of Dishes 
further oni] 

OYSTER ENTREES AVAILABLE FOR SUPPER 
AND BREAKFAST. 

Fried Oysters. 

Stewed Oysters. 

Oysters with Macaroni. 

Oysters in Small Loaves. 

Oyster Toast. 

Steamed Oysters. 

Oyster Patties. 

Vol an Vents of Oysters. 

Oysters in Croustades. 

Scalloped Oysters. 

Oysters a l’Indienne. 

Oyster Kromeskies 
* Oysters a la Brochette. 

Oyster Omelets. 

Oysters en Caisse. 

Broiled Oysters. 

Oyster Rissoles. 

Oyster, Fritters. 

Oysters in Wafer Shells. 

Oysters Broiled in Bacon. 

Oyster Chowder. 

Oysters Fried in Batter. 

Clams in same ways as oysters. 

Scallops in same ways as oysters. 

EGG ENTREES AVAILABLE FOR SUPPER 
AND BREAKFAST. 

Eggs in about one hundred ways are 
available, for which see the dictionary of 
dishes further on. 

It is unnecessary to follow further with 
such lists, as all the forms of meat entrees 
and ways of cooking potatoes are already 
familiar to those who prepare the dinner 
bills of fare. The foregoing lists are in¬ 
tended to help those wTio have to make 
new breakfast and supper bills daily, which 
is comparatively new business. 







THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 


IFjA^T SECOND. 


RESTAURANT STEWARDING 


COMPRISING A SURVEY OF VARIOUS STYLES OF 


Restaurants and their Methods, 

CLUB STEWARDING AND CATERING, 


PUBLIC PARTY CATERING, BALL SUPPERS, 

BASE BALL LUNCHES, HOTEL BANQUETS, ETC. 

HOW TO PREPARE AND HOW TO SERVE THEM; WITH NUMEROUS 
PATTERN BILLS OF FARE CARRIED OUT TO 
QUANTITIES, COST AND PRICE 
PER HEAD. 


BY 

JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 


CHICAGO. 

1SS9. 








. • 








. 







































91 











. 



















RESTAURANT STEWARDING. 


“The difference between hotel and res¬ 
taurant, did you ask? Oh, everbody knows 
that. The difference is—well, let’s see— 
the difference is, at a restaurant you can 
get your meals any time you want, and in 
a hotel you can’t, because they close their 
doors. The restaurant man is glad to see 
you come in at any hour of the day or 
night, while in the hotels they look at a 
fellow like he had felonious intentions if 
he tries to get in to eat after their time is 
up.” 

Good enough as far as it goes, but if we 
think it over a little we shall find greater 
differences than that. 

Hotel-keeping is good housekeeping on 
a magnificent scale; restaurant-keeping is 
merchandizing in meat and drink. The 
hotel Boniface keeps a good house; the 
restaurateur has command of the markets. 
The hotel-keeper takes care of people; 
the restaurateur attends upon people who 
try to take care of themselves. The hotel- 
keeper provides a home for a number sub¬ 
ject to rules; the restaurateur provides a 
refuge for those who know no rules or are 
ruled out. The hotel-keeper thinks the 
most of his customers in the aggregate and 
will not change his ways to suit different 
individuals; the restaurateur thinks most 
of the individuals and is not disturbed if 
their tastes differ to wide extremes. The 
hotel-keeper provides meals for numbers 
by wholesale methods, such as would cost 
the individual three or four times as much 
to provide singly for himself; the restaura¬ 
teur provides by retail methods the separ¬ 
ate meals as ordered and charges for his 
services. The hotel-keeper thinks and 
manages for all; the restaurateur invites 
each one to think and manage for himself 
and adapts his establishment to meet every 
caprice. 

The model restaurant keeper stocks up 
like a merchant with everything that will 
sell; secures the latest novelties like a 
merchant; displays his goods like a mer- 

C7 


chant; advertises like a merchant; makes 
his prices according to the demand; makes 
his money out of the luxuries rather than 
the necessities of his customers. 

Wher*t'ne hotel steward goes to market 
and finds some desirable thing, the question 
with him is “Will it pay?” The restaurant 
steward asks himself, “Will it sell?” The 
first must limit his purchases within the 
bounds of the price per day charged by his 
house; the other must judge whether any 
among the known or probable patrons of 
his restaurant will buy the fresh delicacy 
at the price demanded. The hotel bill of 
fare shows how much can be done for a 
certain fixed price per head; the restaurant 
carte shows what there is in market, and, 
consequently, in the restaurant larder, and 
what it will cost if ordered. 


The hotel steward hiring hands expects 
to have but one set for the day; only one 
continuous watch. He hires them for 
long days, not comparable with the days 
of other classes of workers, if counted in 
hours, yet broken up and made easy by 
intervals between meals. He has times to 
close his doors and give most or all of the 
hands a recess. The restaurant stev/ard 
hires them for so many hours continuous 
work without breaks or intervals; and 
when the clock strikes the watch on duty 
stops work and the next watch takes hold 
as promptly as in a factory; he strives, 
therefore, to apportion the workers to the 
duties to be performed in such a way that 
their time will be fully employed during 
all the hours he pays them for. He rarely 
closes his doors at all. The restaurant 
meals are never over, but always begin¬ 
ning. The most unseasonable hours are 
often the best for business. When the 
hotel is asleep and the theatre is over the 
restaurant is most awake, and the fresh 
hands newly come on watch then render 
their best work in cooking and service. 

r) 





78 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


The restaurant exists for odd times, 
unseasonable hours; to oe outside of com¬ 
mon rules and habits; to meet sudden 
emergencies, unusual demands, transitory 
fancies and passing fashions. The success¬ 
ful restaurateur is like a courtier, making 
eash customer in turn think he is,the only 
one that really knows how to order a din¬ 
ner, or has a true appreciation of what is 
good and en regie. The successful steward 
is one who can carry a stock so varied, 
even of perishables, that he can never be 
taken unawares by the most unexpected 
orders, and who yet loses the least through 
the spoiling of provisions. 


The best cooks, probably, are hotel cooks 
who have had a previous restaurant train¬ 
ing. Hotel cooks attain their greatest ex¬ 
cellence in that most valuable knowledge 
of cookery which the French common 
people are credited with possessing as a 
birthright, which Alexis Soyer gave such 
a brilliant example of when he showed the 
British soldiers in the Crimea how to take 
the rations which they were starving and 
dying upon and make them into palatable 
and nutritious soups and stews, such as 
their French neighbors and allies were 
concocting so well from the same poor 
supplies. Hotel cooks learn good manage¬ 
ment; they learn the economies; to make 
much of little; to suit the average greatest 
number; but the restaurant cooks are the 
more ornamental in their work; they must 
learn styles and fancy touches and take 
instructions from many critical or whim¬ 
sical customers. The individual style ser¬ 
vice of hotel dinners in small dishes has a 
certain prettiness of its own and a propri¬ 
etary exclusiveness about it which delights 
many, but the restaurant entire dishes for 
parties of four, six or eight give the cooks 
room and opportunities for styles of decor¬ 
ation which untraveled hotel cooks have 
no inkling of. A restaurant cook having 
to serve even so common an order as saus¬ 
age and mashed potatoes for two, price a 
few cents, will place four separate, smooth 
spoonfuls of potato cross-fashion in the 


dish, a brown fried sausage pressed half¬ 
way in the top of each and gravy over all, 
and sends in an attractive dish with a 
shape to it, when in inexperienced hands it 
would be nothin.', but potato in one dish, 
sausage in another, common and unnotice- 
able; alike in the commonest boarding 
house and the best hotel. From such 
simples the restaurant cook’s work rises to 
whole dishes of fish, fowl and game, with 
foreign names, styles and ornamental 
accessories. At the same time the restau¬ 
rant cook has an expensive liking for large 
portions, choice cuts, whole steaks, whole 
fishes, plentiful wines to stew in and the 
free use of imported rarities encouraged by 
a class of customers who pay a dollar or 
several dollars for a single dish, but which 
he must modify to some extent in the 
hotel according to its style and prices. 


The hotel head waiter having a party or 
a family whom he desires to have particu¬ 
larly well served, after locating them at the 
pleasantest table, looks around among his 
wai'ers for one who has experience in a 
restaurant. The restaurant waiter may 
seem slow and inefficient amongst a crowd, 
but he is the one they want when minute 
personal attentions are required; the one 
who never forgets; is never in a hurry to 
get away; neither hears nor sees any thing 
at his table except his own duties. Res¬ 
taurant training makes that sort of waiter. 


But as everybody knows, they are not 
all restaurants that are called by that 
name. The real restaurants of the original 
Parisian sort are very few. Some, even 
of the most famous of modern French 
establishments have closed up within the 
last few years. Some writers account for 
the decrease by saying the rising genera¬ 
tion is becoming more mercenary and pre¬ 
fers the table d'hote with its fixed price for 
dinner or supper to the gilt-edged restau¬ 
rant with its fancy prices and the latter 
falls into decline through the growth of 
economical tendencies. However, the or¬ 
iginal pattern of restaurant will still exist, 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


79 


few but remarkable, and there are modifi¬ 
cations of it growing everywhere in in¬ 
creasing numbers. 

THE RISE OF THE RESTAURANT. 

The rise of the restaurant is nearly al¬ 
ways alike—semi-accidental. It might 
seem a curious line of argument to pursue, 
but it is more than likely it could be proven 
that of those who “open a restaurant” 
nineteen out of twenty fail. There seems 
to be a special adaptation to the business 
required, a love of it, and a kind of talent 
not often to be had for money. The first 
great Parisian restaurants, which attracted 
world-wide notice and imitators in all 
countries have been n entioned so often— 
Beauvilliers’—Very’s—Robert’s—that one 
is loth to touch again upon a subject so 
old, yet all the mention is of them in their 
prime, in their success; nobody knows 
how they began, nor by what accident of 
patronage their originators were started. 
Here is a modern, a very recent instance, 
which is an illustration that will suit nearly 
every case and shows that restaurateurs 
are “born, not made.” It is of one Joseph 
—he has another name, but as Joseph only 
he is noted in the papeis—wh'> had a small 
restaurant somewhere in Paris, “Joseph’s 
restaurant,” and became the favorite of an 
appreciative few. He had some specialties, 
some special ways of pleasing his patrons 
which we may not know—they were his 
special points of adaptation which made him 
successful and, perhaps, were generally of 
too small dimensions to be described, they 
were characteristics. But one point was 
of sufficient saliency to be taken hold of; 
something he did which became the talk 
of gastronomical Paris. What was it? 
What could one obscure man in a small 
restaurant do that made all the gilded and 
glittering establishments of old standing 
envious? He served as nobody else could, 
Canard Sauvage , Sauce au Sang —Wild 
Duck with Blood Sauce—roast wild duck 
with its natural gravy. It is hard to avoid 
writing cynically about such a matter, but 
we will try. Snme of these things which 


catch the passing fashion are so exceed¬ 
ing small, the admiration of them seems 
asinine; yet somebody must uphold and 
magnify them—the restaurateur must. To 
tell how it was done is but a parody on 
another old story of how some wondrous 
cook electrified a court and charmed all 
Christendom by the genius shown in cook¬ 
ing two beefsteaks and squeezing the gravy 
out of one to pour over the other which 
was for the prince. M. Joseph roasted his 
ducks very rare, then cut the breasts in 
slices upon a chafing dish (a metal dish 
with an alcohol lamp under, to keep it at 
cooking heat), the gravy from the rare- 
cooked slices flowing freely. All the rest 
of the carcass he squeezed dry to obtain 
the juice for the slices of breast of duck, 
and he let all finish cooking in the dish, 
the gravy of course thickening itself, and 
served the meat so in its own juices. It 
may be he added flavorings and seasonings, 
the reporters do not say, and if so they 
were but incidental. Canard Sauvage } 
Sauce au Sang was the dish. And let the 
host of carvers of “Roast Beef Rare” at 
the merchants’ lunch houses, chop houses, 
restaurants, dining rooms, cafes and hotels 
remember it when they see the “natural 
gravy” flow into the dish of the hot carv¬ 
ing table and cook and become thick there 
—that is the sauce au sang , the blood gravy 
which, when drawn from wild ducks, a 
large number of Parisian gourtnets "went 
into ecstacies over and made M. Joseph 
famous. Next, a wealthy American—one 
of the very wealthiest—was taken by a 
party of friends to M. Joseph’s, not ne¬ 
cessarily to partake of canard sauvage , but 
to patronize the pet restaurateur of the 
day, and they commissioned him to prepare 
a dinner for them of his own choosing, 
which he did; a thoroughly simple dinner 
of roast quail and a few other viands, with 
which they were so delighted—because it 
was prepared by the only M. Joseph—that 
they ordered the same for the next day and 
for several succeeding days. After they 
were gone their ways a great Parisian cafe 
secured the services of M. Joseph, just as 







80 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


an operatic manager secures a star per¬ 
former, and he officiated at a silver chafing 
dish with a silver duck-squeezer; and, later 
and latest, he was enticed away from the 
cafe by the very wealthy citizen of the 
United States by the offer of a very large 
sal?«ry, and is now in this country in pri¬ 
vate service. Such is, in nearly every case, 
the history of the rise of the high-priced, 
fashionable restaurant—there is a natural 
adaptation of a cook and an enthusiastic 
love of his profession; then the patronage of 
wealthy admirers and it is an accomplished 
fact. But where is the restaurant in the 
case of M. Joseph? Most probably it is 
coming. We are not writing of the res¬ 
taurant of the last century. M. Joseph is 
of to-day; his restaurant may come to¬ 
morrow. Some morning the papers will 
say: “Delmonico is likely to meet with a 
formidable competitor shortly, in a magni¬ 
ficent restaurant after the Parisian fashion, 
to be opened by the $10,000 M. Joseph, the 
famous ex-chef to Mr. Vanderbilt,” etc., 
etc. They all aspire to it. Did not Presi¬ 
dent Arthur’s chef open a restaurant? 
Did not Presidents Hayes’ and Garfield’s 
steward open a restaurant? What became 
of them afterwards does not belong to the 
story. When the hero and heroine of a 
novel get married the interest ceases and 
the story ends. Likewise, every man thinks 
to get to keeping a high-class restaurant 
is heaven—until he has a chance to try it. 

A TYPICAL AMERICAN RESTAURATEUR. 

As true a type as the French M. Joseph 
of the restaurateur, as distinguished from 
the hotel keeper by all the traits we have 
already enumerated is the American, Mr. 
Taft, pictured below. He must indeed be 
an enthusiast, as the correspondents all 
agree in calling him, to carry his hobby of 
keeping everything that can be called for 
always on hand to such a successful extent 
as is described. Says one, recounting a 
visit to the place: 

“Taft’s is a great institution, and the 
person who visits Boston and does not go 
there has seen, or rather eaten, nothing. 


The fish dinners gotten up at that famous 
resort are not equalled, probably, anywhere 
in the world. Mr. Taft is an old gentle¬ 
man of over seventy, thin and tall as a rail, 
with snow-white hair. He is the greatest 
enthusiast we ever saw. It is a sight to 
see him bring in dish after dish, every one 
prepared under his personal superintend¬ 
ence, and carry it around the table for the 
inspection of every guest. His face is all 
aglow with pride and excitement and his 
features plainly say: ‘What do you think 
of th t? Isn’t it magnificent?’ We asked 
him were he learned to cook. ‘My mother 
chucked me under the kitchen table when 
I was three weeks old and there I stayed/ 
was his answer; and we believe him. Din¬ 
ners of twenty and more courses are com¬ 
mon occurrences here, and the charges are 
not exorbitant. The old gentleman was 
asked why he brought the ‘turbot,’ which 
he claims is the finest fish, in the world, 
first on the table. ‘Ah/ he replied, ‘the 
best, to be fully appreciated, must always 
be eaten when the appetite is keenest; then 
you relish it immensely/ Logic which 
certainly proved correct in our case, for we 
thought that turbot the finest thing we 
had ever tasted.” 

Taft has a printed bill of fare or card of 
what can be had at his establishment, in 
which it is his pride to enumerate nearly 
all the edible birds and fishes, ending with 
humming birds served in nut shells. The 
list has been printed in the newspapers as 
a curiosity frequently. It would be impos¬ 
sible to give a more graphic and interest¬ 
ing account of the man and the place, or 
particulars more readable to restaurateurs 
than this from the Phi.adelphia News. It 
is better than a lecture on restaurant-keep¬ 
ing. This writer remarks: 

“ ‘Taft does not serve general meals as 
does a restaurant/ ” but it does not imply 
that Taft’s is not the truest kind of a res- 
taurant, it is one devoted to the specialties 
of fish and game, the very opposite of the 
table d'hote ; a place where ‘you can easily 
run your bill up to forty or fifty dollars* 
for dinner. 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


81 


“ Boston has what I consider the greatest 
gastronomic prize in the world in Taft’s. 
The name stands for both the man and the 
place. I can truthfully say of it that the 
bon vivaiit who confesses ignorance to his 
and its existence has no right to claim 
that he has lived. Taft? I hear you say. 
I don’t suppose there are a hundred men 
in Philadelphia who ever heard the name 
before, and yet it is the only place in the 
wide world where you can obtain any 
edible fish that swims, perfectly cooked. 
Only one divinely inspired can cook a fish. 
A man of fair culinary education can ac¬ 
complish marvels with meats and vege¬ 
tables and sweetmeats, but how few of 
even our famous chefs can give a fish that 
delicate treatment without which it has no 
temptation for the educated palate. At 
Gloucester, in the planked shad, we have 
a dish that should stand second in the list 
of piscatorial delicacies. The first place 
should unquestionably be given to the tur¬ 
bot as cooked at Taft’s. 

“Taft is a white-haired octogenarian 
who owns a roomy frame structure on the 
shore of the Atlantic Ocean at Point 
Shirley, seven miles from Boston. I took 
dinner there two weeks ago, but it lives in 
my memory as vividly as though it were 
yesterday. I can never forget it. Old 
Taft entertained us for some time when 
we entered the parlor with reminiscences 

of the famous men who have visited his 
house. When Charles Dickens was in 

this country he and Nathanial Hawthorne, 
Henry W. Longfellow, Charles Sumner 
and John W. Forney frequently sat to¬ 
gether in one of the little dining rooms. 
Taft takes great delight in exhibiting the 
treasures of his larder. Men who have 
visited his house send him trophies of the 
gun and rod from every quarter of the 
globe. I thought I would nonplus him 
when he proudly said: 4 Gentlemen, 1 can 
furnish you with any edible fish or bird 
that you may name.’ 1 said: ‘ Have you 
any reed birds?” He looked at me quiz¬ 
zically and said: ‘ You are from Philadel¬ 
phia? ’ I said: 4 What makes you think so? ’ 


‘ Because,’ he replied, 4 it is the only place 
in this country where you get reed birds— 
except here,’ and he held up a bunch of 
little bursting balls of golden fat — the 
little cherubs that the Philadelphia epicure 
bows down before and worships. He 
showed me even plump little humming 
birds, each one snugly packed in the half 
of an English walnut shell. But his dis¬ 
play of fish! It makes my mouth wa‘er to 
simply think of the tempting sight. He 
had every finny delicacy I had ever heard 
of and many that were entirely new to¬ 
me, even by name. 4 Try again,’ he said 
to me, laughingly. 4 Perhaps you can 
name a fish I haven’t got.’ I naturally 
thought that the simplest of all, and yet 
one of the sweetest, would be forgotten in 
this wonderful array, and so I said: 4 1 
want some Schuylkill catfish.’ 

44 4 Now I know you are from Philadel¬ 
phia,’ he said, smilingly, as he reached far 
down in a big ice box and produced a 
string of our humble ‘catties.’ 

44 Taft does not serve general meals as 
does a restaurant. He will provide you 
with a strictly fish dinner or a strictly 
game dinner or a combination of both. 
For the fish dinner, which is really a cul¬ 
inary marvel, he charges two dollars with¬ 
out wines. For what he terms his 4 regu¬ 
lar’ game dinner he charges three dollars 
and a half, but if you wish to select from 

his larder what you wish you can very 
easily run your bill up to forty or fifty 

dollars, even though there are but three or 
four in the party. The dinner I partook 
of was especially ordered, and was a com¬ 
bination of both fish and game. I want to- 
say right here by way of apology for the 
tale I have to tell that the appetites of my¬ 
self and companions had been sharpened 
to a keen edge by a carriage ride of seven 
and a half miles in 4 a nipping and an eager 
air,’ salted with the spray that the wind- 
swept in from the bosom of the broad 
Atlantic. 

44 We began the feast by each one con¬ 
suming about fifty steamed clams—not the 
tough little morsels that we call delicacies,, 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


•82 

but the long, soft shell tid-bits, of which 
you eat only the sweet morsels at the end 
after you have dipped it in melted butter. 
Fifty are looked upon as constituting only 
a moderate appetizer. Each dish that fol¬ 
lowed this was labeled by a small card 
bearing in letters of gold the name of the 
subject about to be discussed and held in 
place and aloft by a toothpick piercing 
both the card and the fish or bird, which¬ 
ever the dish happened to be. The first 
dish proved the piece de resistance. It was 
•a large turbot. The card bore this legend: 


Taft’s Turbot. 
King of the Sea. 


“ It was truly a beautiful sight. At the 
edges it was of a creamy white, that deep¬ 
ened on the sides into a golden hue that 
became gradually richer and richer, until 
at the top it became a delicate brown. And 
then what snowy flakes it broke into under 
the fork! And what sweetness when it 
entered the mouth! I can truthfully say 
that I have never eaten fish before. Its 
memory haunts me still. I confess that 
when I had fully realized the wonder of 
that turbot I reached over the table and 
seized that little card, and I have it before 
me now. 

“The next fish placed before us was a 
rock cod, which was excelled in delicacy 
and sweetness only by the glorious turbot, 
of which, by the way, we did not leave one 
morsel. Taft accompanied each dish into 
the room and for our especial benefit de¬ 
livered a brief dissertation on its merits. 
The rest of the banquet consisted solely 
of game. The list may make your mouth 
water. We had chicken grouse and Lake 
Erie teal, both the finest I ever tasted in 
my life; jack snipes, j eeps—wee litt'e birds 
and very toothsome; reed bids—not equal 
to those of Philadelphia; and last of all 
humming birds cooked in nut shells. The 
last were really not worth eating, being 
dry and tasteless. But I wanted to say 
that I had eaten a humming bird, and now 
I can say it. Taken altogether, it was a 


banquet fit for the gods, and it made me 
feel glad that I was permitted to live—and 
to be at point Shirley!” 

THE RESTAURANT STEWARD AND THE 
MARKET MEN. 

Mr. Taft evidently experienced keen en¬ 
joyment in his avocation, yet it may be 
doubted whether he, being practically 
without competitors, ever knew the su¬ 
preme exultation of the city restaurant 
steward who “ get’s a scoop ” on all his 
rivals in the business by securing the 
entire supply of some coveted delicacy and 
compelling the best patrons of other estab¬ 
lishments to come to his place for it. He 
may have absolutely all the frogs’ legs the 
city contains, and the blissful knowledge 
that no more can arrive for a wetk; or all 
of the early chickens, or the very last 
quail and partridges. And such being the 
object of his ambition, he must think of 
ways to gain the preferences of the market 
and commission men, for if he fails to 
make friends of them, unless he has very 
good private sources of supply from out¬ 
side markets, he may as well quit the busi¬ 
ness. When a thing is cheap and plenti¬ 
ful he will be solicited to buy even if 
disliked and despised, but then he does not 
want it; and when it is scarce and in de¬ 
mand, he may hear of its being obtainable 
at this or that restaurant, but if not in the 
circle of favorites the dealers will take 
great pains to be “just sold out” every 
time he tries them. And still his favored 
rivals are getting all they want from hid¬ 
den stores for days in succession. Many 
a new restaurant that is opened with a dis¬ 
play of gilding and plate glass fails of suc¬ 
cess through this unconsidered particular 
of not having a steward or buyer who can 
secure the good will of the dealers in 
specialties, the game dealers, fish importers, 
the merchants who can always obtain 
everything worth having; not depending 
upon the northern markets alone, nor the 
southern markets alone, but wiring to fifty 
places if necessary; knowing where the 
goods are to be found. Without this com- 










THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


83 


mand of the markets, and the co-operation 
of the market men the restaurant fai s 
from inability to “fill the bill.” After 
two or three disappointments the most 
profitable patrons become chagrined and 
pass the place by with the contemptuous 
remark: “Oh, you can never find anything 
there.” 

HOW TO “STAND IN ” WITH THE MARKET 

MEN. 

The surest and best way to secure favors 
from the dealers is to be in a measure in¬ 
dependent of them by opening communi¬ 
cation with the same sources of supply 
which they draw from, at least often 
enough to show them that their withhold¬ 
ing of supplies in favor of old friends will 
not have the effect of destroying the new 
restaurant, which may possibly, by reach¬ 
ing out, even gain advantages over all the 
older houses, and wake them up to a 
realizing sense that they don’t yet own the 
<. arth. This, however, is only possible 
with a command of capital to stand occa¬ 
sional losses. Some, having but a limited 
business, can join another party, or several 
whose places are far enough apart not to 
compete, and import profitably that which 
one alone could not afford. 

Next best way to secure a fair share and 
even a preference in what is going, is to 
pay cash on the spot. Old friendships and 
well-ripened business relationships may be 
strong, but cash in hand will draw the 
last and best thing from the darkest back 
corner of the refrigerator when the other 
fellow is not looking, nevertheless. 

To stand well with the market men it is 
not necessary to attempt bribery, or to buy 
favors in that way. There is a good deal 
an having a pleasing address and sociable 
ways, but there is a kind of reciprocal 
accommodation which these dealers, being 
business men, appreciate above everything 
■else—they want the buying steward to 
help them out occasionally when their 
enterprise has led them to bring on too 
much stock which threatens to spoil on 
their hands. They will not urge the man 


they have sometimes favored with the 
things that were scarcest to help to unload 
them in a glut, but if on once asking he 
does not see what is the matter, and dc 
what he can afford by taking more or less, 
they are liable to remember it against him 
at some future time when perhaps they 
w il have the only basket of turkeys or 
sucking pigs in the whole city, and he 
wants them badly. 

KEEPING PROVISIONS. 

Not the least of the means of keeping 
abreast with the foremost in the trade is a 
thorough knowledge of how to keep pro¬ 
visions after they have been procured. 
The best restaurants have refrigerators of 
special make, cold rooms, fitted with 
drawers and shelves in which prepared 
provisions are kept awaiting orders to cook 
them. In some places the main depend¬ 
ence is upon large ice boxes containing 
broken ice, and cotton sacks full of small 
quantities of such things as are not injured 
by being kept wet are buried deep in the 
ice where they keep for a Kng time. 

A FIRST-CLASS RESTAURANT BILL OF 
FARE. 

Regarded as reading matter a bill of fare 
may not have very strong claims upon the 
attention, but as showing what need the 
restaurateur has of extensive acquaintance 
with the markets and of ways and means 
of keeping a vast number of articles in 
good condition when secured, the grand 
bill of fare here shown must prove an ob¬ 
ject of lasting interest. Merely as a list of 
dishes for the composition of bills of fare 
it will be found useful; as a list of prices 
charged where prices are the highest it 
will serve to brace up the timid ones who 
don’t know how to charge. Twj dollars 
and a half, it must be admitted is a good 
“ live and let live ” price for a beefsteak — 
see the list of “ Dishes to Order.” A por¬ 
tion of the price of every dish in this place 
was needed, however, to pay for the music 
of Gilmore’s band playing outside. 






84 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


Manhattan Beach Hotel. 


Guests will please Pay their Checks to the Waiters, and see that Prices 
charged correspond with those on Bill of Fare. 

BILL. OF FARE. 

S-A.TTTIRID.A.Ar, CT IT UNTIE 14, 18- 


SHELL FISH 


Tittle Neck clams on half shell 

Clams, stewed. 

“ fried. 

“ fritters. 


Soft shell crabs 


25 

40 

40 

40 


Clam, roasted. 

“ Little Neck, roasted 

“ steamed. 

Plain lobster. 


4 <> 

So 

40 

40 


Consomm 4 .... 
Clam chowder 


SOUPS 

,.. 25 Printanier Royal 
,..25 Mock Turtle...., 


35 

40 


Baked bluefish, wine sauce 

Eels, tartar sauce. 

Striped bass, broiled. 

Bluefish “ . 

Sheepshead “ . 

Fresh codfish “ . 

Fresh codfish, hollandaise. 


Leg- of mutton, caper sauce 
Corned beef and cabbage.. 
Ox tongue with spinach... 


Ribs of Beef. 

Lamb, mint sauce 
Spring turkey.... 


FISH 


45 

• 50 
.40 
.40 

• 5 o 
.40 

.50 


Boiled sheepshead, hollandaise.... 

Connecticut River salmon broiled.. 
Spanish mackerel “ 

Blackfish “ 

Sea bass “ 

Filet of sole, tartar or tomato sauce 


BOILED 

... 50 Turkey with pork. 

...45 Chicken, Florentine sauce 

...45 


ROAST 


40 

50 

eo 


Spring chicken with cresses, whole 
“ “ half.. 

Ham glace, champagne sauce. 


50 

50 

40 

4c 

50 


fo 

75 


1 So 

••75 

..50 


ENTREES 

Blanquette of Veal k la Poulette.60 

Poulei saute k l’Estragon.75 

Lamb’s Kidneys k l’ltalienne.60 

Lobster Croquettes aux fines herbes.60 

Frog’s Legs sautes a la Hollandaise. 


,.6o 


Pigeon. 

English snipe, on toast 


CAME 

..50 Philadelphia squab 
..50 Plover, on toast.... 


Potatoes, boiled.. . .10 

“ fried. to 

“ Saratoga.10 

“ mashed.10 

“ k la maitre d’hbtel.... 15 

“ sautes. J5 


VEGETABLES 

Potatoes, k la Parisienne.20 


“ k la Lyonnaise.20 

Boiled rice.15 

Stewed tomatoes.20 

Green peas.25 

Asparagus.'..25 

New beets.20 


Macaroni a l’ltalienne 

Spaghetti. 

French peas. 

Stuffed tomatoes. 

Canned corn. 

Frem h string beans.. 
String beans. 


Lettuce, plain dressing.... 

“ with egg..... 

“ with mayonnaise. 

Potato salad... 

Sliced tomatoes. 

Tomato salad, mayonnaise 
Cucumbers. 


SALADS, RELISHES, ETC. 


2 S 

.30 

35 

20 

25 

35 

20 


W atercress... 

Currant jelly. 

French or English pickles 

Chow chow. 

Olives. 

Pickled beets. 

Radishes. 


60 

60 


2.5 

30 

35 

30 

20 

35 

25 


20 - 

'5 

*5 

i 5 

>5 

10 

lQr 































































































THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


85 


PASTRY AND 


Charlotte russe.15 

Apple pie . 15 

Peach pie.15 

Pineapple pie.15 

Custard pie.15 


Chocolate ice cream.25 

Vanilla or strawberry ice cream.25 

Meringue glacee.30 


ICE CREAMS 


Eclairs.15 

Lady fingers.15 

Fancy cakes.20 

Blanc mange.20 

Cabinet pudding.20 

Rum Jelly.j.25 


Lemon ice., 
Tutti Frutti 


FRUIT 


DESSERT 


CHEESE 


Strawberries and cream.... 


Pecan nuts. 


. 15 

American. 


Oranges. 


Almonds.... 


.15 

English. 


Rum omelette. 


Mixed nuts. 



Swiss. 




Raisins. 



Neufchatel. 







Stilton. 




PRESERVED FRUIT 



Strawberries. 




Brandy peaches. 



Ginger. 




White cherries.. 


.25 

Damsons. 




Orange marmalade. 



COLD DISHES 


Roast beef.40 

“ turkey.60 

“ lamb.50 

Half chicken.60 


Corned beef.40 

1 lam. .40 

Beef tongue.40 


Chicken salad 
Lobster salad. 

“ plain. 
Sardines . 


Ham sandwuh. 

Corned beef sandwich 


IS 

iS 


Tongue sandwich. 
Chicken sandwich 


DISHES TO ORDER 


Beefsteak, plain.. 5 ° 

“ with onions. 60 

“ with mushrooms. 75 

Sirloin steak. 75 

“ “ with mushrooms.1 00 

Tenderloin steak. So 

“ “ with madeira sauce. 90 

“ “ with mushrooms.1 00 

“ “ a la Borde'aise.1 5 ° 

“ “ with truffles.1 5° 

Filet Chateaubriand, plain...1 50 

“ ** with mushrooms.200 

“ “ a la Trianon.2 25 

** “ with truffles.2 50 

Porterhouse steak, plain.1 25 

“ “ with mushrooms.1 75 

“ “ extra large, plain.2 00 

“ “ “ mushrooms....2 50 

Veal Cutlet, plain. 5 ° 

“ breaded, tomato sauce. to 

“ a l’ltalienne. bo 

“ en papillote. 7° 

Frog’s Legs breaded. 5 ° 


Squab broiled with cress. 

“ with peas. 

Sweetbread broiled. 

“ k la macedoine.... 

“ with Fremh peas.. 

“ with mushrooms.., 

Mutton chops. 

“ sauce piquante... 

“ with peas. 

“ a la jardinikre.... 

Lamb chops, plain . 

“ a la Soubise. 

Calf’s head k la vinaigrette.... 

“ k la poulette. 

“ en tortue. 

Chicken broiled on toast (half). 

“ saute with mushrooms 

“ “ k la bordelaise.. 

“ “ a la Marengo..., 

Welsh rarebit. 

Golden Buck. 

Soft shell crabs.. 


MISCELLANEOUS 


Cream toast. 35 

Milk toast.20 

Dipped toast. T 5 

Dry toast.10 


French or graham bread.10 

Bread and milk.25 

Tea biscuit.15 


Boston brown bread 

Plain bread.. 

Cream, per glass... 
Milk, per glass. 


Oolong lea, per cup.10 

per pot.20 

Eng. Breakfast tea, per cup-10 

“ “ per pot....20 


Green or Japan tea, 

per pot only.20 


Broma, per cup.15 

“ per pot.25 


Chocolate, per cup. 

“ per pot. 
Coffee, per cup.... 
“ per pot. 


*5 

5 b 

40 

35 

i 5 


60 

So 

70 

75 

»5 

X On 

50 

60 

70 

70 

60 

75 

50 

5 ° 
So 
60 
1 00 
1 00 
1 25 
40 
• 50 
■ 50 


10 

10 

20 

10 

15 

25 

10 

20 


15 


Iced Coffee, per glass 


Iced Tea, per glass 


15 





































































































































8G 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


A FEW ENTREES AND A LITTLE MAN¬ 
AGEMENT. 

No matter how high the prices or how 
wealthy the establishment, it is found most 
difficult to keep a restaurant strictly on the 
“cooked to order” method; provisions, 
however well cooked, will remain uncalled 
for and must either be lost in large aggre¬ 
gate quantities or turned to the use of a 
regular dinner. Delmonico claims that 
consideration of the great loss of provisions 
which must be of the best, must be kept in 
readiness, yet must be parted with if in the 
least deteriorated, as his reply to the charge 
of keeping the dearest restaurant in the 
world. We see in this great bill of fare, 


therefore, five fresh entrees every day, and 
scanning them with the eyes of experience 
we may find a judicious use to-day has beem 
made of some good things which did not sell 
in the other lists where they appeared the 
day before. That much is borrowed from 
the hotel plan. A few good entrees are 
made and offered without waiting for the 
accident of their being ordered, and in that 
way they always sell well to the people- 
who would much rather have somebody- 
get dinner ready for them and call them 
to it than have the trouble of planning and; 
ordering a dinner themselves. 

This is the list of entrees which appeared 
the next day after the former bill, and 
shows the only changes made in the en¬ 
tire list. . 


ENTREES 


Filet of beef larded k Ik Jardiniere. 7 ° 

Epigramme of spring lamb, tomaio sauce.60 

Calf’s brains breaded, sauce tartare.....65 

Vol-an-vent of chicken a la Financifere... ....80 

Philadelphia squab, en crapaudine. 


.7© 


The wine list printed on the fourth page 
of the original bill of fare folder was in 
small type as voluminous of items as the 
dinner list inside and the front page was 
taken up with the programme of the grand 
concerts. 

THE MERCHANTS’ LUNCH HOUSE. 

Of a contrary description is the mer¬ 
chants’ lunch house—a kind of restaurant 
that thrives by the necessities and not the 
luxuries of its patrons. One that is not 
obliged to secure new and inviting comes¬ 
tibles and not obliged to command the 
markets nor carry a varied stock. The 
lunch house restaurant is useful rather 
than ornamental; not sought for pleasure, 
but through the driving necessity of taking 
in some sustenance without delay. To 
live and be a business success it must be 
located in the most densely packed portion 
of the city, in cramped quarters and 
pinched up places on valuable ground, but 
easily accessible; then it must furnish 
something to eat and drink—it makes but 
little difference what—for the men whose 
pursuits are such as to prevent their going 


far for their mid-day meal. There may be 
added to the main dining hall or counter,, 
or whatever the feeding place may con¬ 
sist of, a few private rooms, perhaps an 
upstairs dining room with some pretensions- 
to elegance, where men of some leisure or 
merchants who take a country customer 
to dinner may have a table to themselves, 
and at least half of a waiter’s attention. 
These conditions being secured a plain- 
man with plain business sense may make- 
an income which runs up into the thou¬ 
sands each year without much hard work 
or anxiety; without attracting the least 
notice or even bare recognition from his 
constant customers, who only come to his- 
place because it is the nearest and is not 
very bad. This sort of a house has no- 
business on Sundays and may as well close- 
on that day as not. The few essentials to> 
make it successful in the matters of the 
table are that it furnish the best of beef 
plainly cooked, the best of coffee, best 
butter and bread. All sorts of extras, of 
course, are offered and a good deal sold of 
fish and games and the ordinary pastries,, 
but nobody’s reputation is affected whether 













THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK 


8T 


ARTICLES HAVING NO PRICE ATTACHED NOT SERVED TO-DAY. 

BOIS BLANCS 

RESTAURANT AND MERCHANTS’ LUNCH. 


Beef Broth, 


SOUP. 

,..15 Bean. 




Boiled Fresh Cod, Egg Sauce. 

Trout Steak... 

Fresh Mackerel. 

Spanish Mackerel. 

Black Bass. 


FISH. 


• 35 


Yellow Perch. 

White Fish, broiled or fried. 

Y el low Pike. 

Fresh Salmon. 

Boiled Haddock, with Oyster Sauce. 


COLD MEATS. 

Lobster Salad.30 

Chicken Salad.30 

Bean Salad.2$ 

Pressed Corned Beef.25 

Smoked Tongue.25 


Potato Salad.ig,- 

Shrimp Salad.40 

Pickled Lamb’s Tongue.25 

Baldwin Ham.25, 


ENTREES. 


New England Boiled Dinner. 35 

Irish Stew with Vegetables.30 

Baked Chicken Pie. 

Chicken Frit aseed on Dry Toast. 

Tenderloin of Beef with Onions. 

Pigs’ Feet. 

Honey Comb Tripe, Tomato Sauce. 

Baked Macaroni with ( heese.15 

Mini ed Turkey, with One Poached Egg. 

Chicken Pot Pie.35 

Pigeon Pot Pie. 


Cod Fish Balls. 

Beef a la mode. 

Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. 

Poikand Beans.25; 

Chicken Giblets on Toast. 

Boiled Turkey, with Oyster Sauce.40 

Boiled Chicken, with Salt Pork. 

Corned Beef Hash, with One Poached Egg.315 

Turkey Wings, Stewed, with Vegetables. 

Pork Tenderloin, with Fried Apples.35. 

Veal Cutlets, Breaded. 


ROASTS. 


Loin of Beef.35 

Veal, Stuffed. 

Rib Ends of Beef.25 

Venison, Cranberry Sauce.40 

Sadd'e of Mutton. 

Teal Duck, with Jelly. 


Pork, Apple Sauce. 

Young Spring Chicken.. 

Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. 

Young Goose, Cranberry Sauce. 

Canvass Back Duck. 

Mallard Duck. 


Mashed Potatoes. 

Asparagus on Toast.. 15 

Lima Beans. 

Boiled Onions.10 ( 


Elgin Corn. 

Squash.10 

Young Onions. 

Potatoes. 


VEGETABLES 

Succotash. 


Stewed Tomatoes.10 

Fried Parsnips. 

Turnips, mashed.10 


Cucumber Catsup. 
Tabasco Sauce.... 


Sweet Pickles.. 
Tomato Catsup. 


RELISHES 

. i Cold Slaw. 


Sugar Beets....10 

Baked Sweet 

Potatoes.10 


Worcestershire Sauce. 


PUDDINC AND PIES. 


Granula Pudding, Vanilla Sauce.10 


Mince Pie, 10. Apple Pie, 10. Custard Pie. 
Lemon Pie. Cranberry Pie. Pumpkin Pie, 10 


Codfish Tongues on Toast. 

Scollops. 

Frogs’ Legs. 

Fresh Lobster, whole. 

“ “ half. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Shrimps, per plate. 

Sardines, per box. 

“ “ for two. 

Soft Crabs, per pair. 


TEA, COFFEE AND CHOCOLATE. 


French Coffee, per pot.25 

“ with Cognac. 

Tea, per Cup.ro 

** “ pot, for one.*5 

“ “ two.25 


II 


<< 


Coffee, per cup. 10 

“ “ pot, for one.15 

“ “ “ “ two.25 

Chocolate, per cup.15 

“ per pot, for one.25 

“ “ “ “ two.401 


ALL FANCY AND MIXED DRINKS, CALL FOR. 

Budweiser Beer, Qts.30 cents; Pints.20 cents. 

Best’s Milwaukee Lager Beer.10 cents. 


























































































































THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


■88 


such dishes are good or not, or whether 
genuine or mere imitations and substitutes, 
and one who would try to carry out ideas 
of a better order of things Mould be left 
behind by duller competitors who are 
better fitted for the position. In short, the 
busy merchants, insurance men, lawyers, 
agents of all sorts, and proprietors of every 
business in the heart of a city experience 
a difficulty in finding a suitable lunch place, 
for the reason that in the locality where 
most wanted the rents are generally too 
high for lunch houses to pay; when some 
man does get a footing in such a place his 
custom is assured from the first with only 
a small effort on his part; his struggle is 
not to make his house and table most ex¬ 
cellent, but to make it pay the rent and 
himself. 

Such a necessity for a place to take a 
rapid lunch was felt by an enterprising 
firm of liquor merchants in Chicago some 
years back, and with more thought for the 
convenience of the thing than the rent 
value of the rooms they gave a restaurant 
man a chance by letting him have the 
necessary space in their own building at a 
nominal rent, and by the time they became 
tired of the rather one-sided arrangement, 
which was at the end of three years when 
they took charge of the place themselves, 
the restaurant man had deposited in the 
bank ten thousand dollars as his net pro¬ 
fits. That on the preceding page was his 
bill of fare. He served no breakfasts and 
•did not keep open on Sunday. 

The bill was not too good, but just good 
enough; the prices were not too high, but 
just high enough. Nothing admirable 
about it further than that it is the bill of 
fare of a Chicago Merchants’ Lunch that 
succeeded. 

The same bill of fare would fit equally 
well another one of Chicago’s most suc¬ 
cessful lunch house restaurants; Thomp¬ 
son’s, however, very conveniently situated 
with plenty of room in a building to itself. 
Said the chief cook of the place to the 
writer, one day: “Yes, we serve all of 


three thousand meals a day; they are 
nearly all to regular customers; never 
enough strangers among them to make 
any particular difference. We don’t stop 
to garnish our dishes with parsley and 
lemons, you know, but what vve give ’em 
is good, and we manage to give most of 
our customers seats at the tables; and I 
think the reason we do one of the biggest 
businesses of the kind is because we serve 
the meals quicker than any other place 
can. Why, good lord, sir! I can’t tell 
you how we serve them quicker; but I 
have six carvers and each one has a rib 
roast of beef before him, and it seems to 
me they must carve a dish of beef apiece 
every two seconds, and that’s about as fast 
as the people can come in at the doors— 
roast beef and mashed potatoes is thirty- 
five cents an order; if you want to count 
up, you can—as for me, you know, every¬ 
body doesn’t take roast beef and what they 
do take, why that falls on me to look after 
with my other men. About thirty hands 
in the kitchen is what we have, and thirty 
or forty waiters, but some of them only 
work through dinner time.” 

Here, too, the breakfasts, though consid¬ 
erable, were light in comparison with the 
noon lunches or dinners. The proprietor 
of the place (recently deceased) was the 
owner of the building, a very valuable one* 
of which he used only the lower floor for 
his lunch house business, and, besides, died 
possessed of $150,000, said to have been 
made in the restauraurant business, which 
he kept by him in cash. He was an illit¬ 
erate man, and was afiaid to trust his 
money to the banks. 

And close by—for all three of these 
places were situated in the same block— 
was a “fine” restaurant, where they did 
garnish their dishes and served every 
delicacy to order, and did really good work ; 
but its patronage was small, and it changed 
proprietors three times in two years. It 
was the right kind of a restaurant in the 
wrong place, except for the demands of 
the few. 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


89 


THE BAKERY LUNCH. 

One of the greatest successes among 
Chicago lunch businesses is remarkable for 
the narrow compass in which it is carried 
on and the lack of any outward indications 
that would lead a stranger to suspect its 
existence, much less to surmise the im¬ 
mense extent of the feeding done on the 
premises. It is a narrow store building 
with ordinary bake-shop windows showing 
some bread and cakes and no other sign. 
But signs are needless, the place within is 
taxed to its fullest capacity in every inch 
of space to meet the demands of a singing 
multitude of pie eaters, and no more can 
be accommodated; no more can get in. 
The pressure begins at twelve o’clock each 
day, and some of the more ingenious or 
less restrained among the customers man¬ 
age their business so as to resort there for 
their pie and milk between the hours of 
eleven and twelve, and so avoid waiting in 
line for the stool of their choice; after 
noon and until two o’clock there is no 
other chance, but to stand and wait for a 
turn, loving the men in front who take 
custard pie, because they can swallow it 
•quickly and move on, and hating them 
that give the unusual order for ham sand¬ 
wiches, two courses of apple dumplings or 
meringoes and iced coffee with a straw, 
because that means delay for the men who 
stand behind. 

Great stories have been told of the 
enormous amounts of pastry of all kinds 
consumed at this principal bakery lunch 
house of the city, and the hundreds of 
thousands of customers served each year, 
but this is not to our purpose. There is a 
suggestion in it, however, that almost 
every town of consequence would support 
well a bakery lunch house carried on in 
the right way: serving the very best of 
pastries of all varieties in liberal portions 
at a small price. The profit on each cus¬ 
tomer is necessarily small, but the aggre¬ 
gate, like the two cent stamp business of a 
post office, soon runs up to hundreds and 
thousands. The various pastries and cakes 


are produced in these large and successful 
establishments by the best bakery machin¬ 
ery and baked in rotary ovens of enormous 
capacity. It is often asked why such 
crowding as these places show should be 
allowed; why more roomy quarters are 
not provided and better accommodations. 
But, probably, the conditions noted are the 
only ones possible; to attempt to change 
the business would destroy it. It is the 
public need that builds np such a trade; 
the men who own the business do not 
make the tide, they only ride upon it. 

THE PLACE AND NOT THE MAN. 

Examples of successful places where the 
man and his efforts amount to nothing, 
but the location is everything, are plenti¬ 
ful enough. Here is a sample of a curious 
kind of business dependent only upon the 
time and place, mentioned by a foreign 
correspondent: 

“ One of the minor industries in the Pa¬ 
risian catering trade is that of the vendors 
of milk in the early hours of the morning, 
who are to be found under the fortes- 
cochere of a house in almost every street, 
and who supply the public with cafe-au- 
lait , chocola’e, hot milk, crescents and 
rolls, besides cold milk. The hot drinks 
can be consumed on the premises, a bench 
or two and a table being at the customer’s 
disposition. Tn some parts of the town 
these enterprising ladies do a rattling busi¬ 
ness in spite of the short hours allotted to 
them, and the comparatively high rents 
they have to pay. In the house where I 
live, the laitiere pays ten pounds, about 
$48.50, per annum for the use of the door¬ 
way and entrance for two hours every 
morning, from 5.30 to 7.30, and yet I be¬ 
lieve she does a famous business. In other 
parts of the town the rent is still higher, 
rising to twenty pounds per annum in very 
crowded thoroughfares. The prices are 
id. a cup of hot milk, and i>£d. for a large 
bowl of hot coffee and milk, or chocolate.” 

But that is very much like our southern 
“French market” stands, the rents in the 
market stalls being high enough for the 
few morning hours they are occupied. 

THE MAN AND NOT THE PLACE. 

On the other hand here is a present 
instance of a man changing utter disaster 
into remarkable success in spite of the 







90 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


place. When prohibition struck Atlanta 
with the usual inevitable effect of breaking 
up many a prosperous man’s business, it 
extinguished for a moment the proprietor 
of one of the best, most respectable and 
most profitable bars on the main street of 
the city, and, likewise, his popular head 
barkeeper, whose occupation certainly 
was gone completely. The building, like 
scores of others, seemed to be of no further 
use, was dismantled of its bar fixtures and 
stood deserted. But an idea struck the 
proprietor to open a merchants’ lunch and 
restaurant in the place, and his popular 
barkeeper should be the steward. Neither 
of them had had restaurant experience, 
but the owner had capital and business 
capacity, the amateur steward had a pleas¬ 
ing face and a real interest in making 
everybody feel well, and their success has 
been amazing. The city is spoken of far 
and wide as one that will not support a 
good restaurant; the business has been 
tried time and again, before and since, and 
everybody fails except these whilom liquor 
sellers. Their place has progressed from 
stove to small range; from that to large 
range; from that to hot-water tanks and 
steam-cooking and a hot carving table; 
from that to renting a run-down sort of 
boarding house up stairs and changing the 
whole thing into a fine “ European Hotel.” 
When the prohibition legislation was re¬ 
pealed this place did not go back to the old 
bar business as others did with a rush, but 
keeps on in the new line of success. Nat¬ 
ural adaptation to the business is the secret 
of success in this case, both men know 
what is good themselves, and buy only 
what is good, and if the jolly ex-barkeeper, 
now steward, is the cheerful giver, the 
owner is the careful manager, and they are 
both in love with what they are doing. It 
would be space wasted to print their bill of 
fare—their show window is their best card, 
nor would it profit to repeat the stories 
told of the large amount of money made, 
such are always exaggerated, sufficient it is 
to know that their success is of the sub¬ 
stantial kind that satisfies them. 


i 

THE BAR ROOM FREE LUNCH. 

And yet, after all, perhaps the bartender 
of the preceding instance gained an insight 
of the restaurant business through the 
practice prevalent in some cities of serving 
a roast-beef and-trimmings lunch free to 
patrons of the bar. New Orleans is called 
the original home of the free lunch, and it 
is true to-day that the best lunch obtain¬ 
able in that city can be had at the bar¬ 
rooms; not free to all, but upon pay^ment 
of fifteen cents for diinks of some kind at 
the counter. There is a soup, fish, roast 
beef of ihe very best quality, salads of 
beets and potatoes, and bread. The best 
cooks find easy employment on these hot 
lunches and similar midnight suppers. The 
excellence of the repasts furnished at such 
merely nominal rates has much to do with 
the making New Orleans the poor hotel 
city it is known to be. The stranger in 
the city who does not know of the free hot 
lunches at the liquor palaces knows noth¬ 
ing. New Orleans has been famous for 
its restaurants, also, but the reports vary 
according to the humor or the good or bad 
fortune of some visitor who writes about 
them. To avoid going over old ground, 
to show that restaurants are the same the 
world over and that the same complaints 
fit St. Petersburg that would apply to New 
Orleans let us append this growl of an 
Englishman in 

A RUSSIAN restaurant: 

“ If, however, you wish to attempt one 
of the fashionable restaurants in the Great 
Morskaia, two hospitable houses on either 
side cf the way open wide their tempting 
portals. Which shall it be? Desseaux on 
the right, or Borel on the left? Scylla over 
the way, or Charyhdis on this side? For 
surely neither Scylla nor Charybdis ever 
seized the unwary traveller with such 
irresistible force, or devoured him to such 
good purp se. 

“Entering Desseaux’s ‘Restaurant des 
Nobles,’ you are received with civility 
amounting to obsequiousness. One small 
waiter relieves you of hat and stick; an¬ 
other, a little larger, removes your great¬ 
coat; and a third, quite full-sized and rather 
fat, awai’s your instruct ons with a winning 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


91 


smile and many low bows. ‘ Nyet Russki ’ 
should be your first remark; and the fact 
of your being a stranger being thus ascer¬ 
tained, No. 3 disappears and fetches the 
linguist of the establishment, a very portly 
man, who asks you for your orders in fair 
French. An habitue would reply, ‘A 
plain soup, a mutton cutlet done on the 
grid, a roast gelinotte and salad, Russian 
beer; ’ but you, a stranger, overawed by the 
stout linguist, by his magnificent shirt- 
front, and above all by the morocco-bound, 
gilt-edged, brass-clasped bill of fare, as for¬ 
midable as a family Bible, which he holds 
out for your inspection, will not think of 
ordering so simple a dinner. And if you 
have an inclination that way, the sight of 
three huge champagne-coolers, containing 
long-necked bottles, which grace a table 
occupied by a couple of young Guardsmen 
in their gorgeous uniform, will remind 
you that you did not come to Desseaux’s 
for a chop and a glass of beer, and that 
more is expected of you, although you 
don’t know what to order. But some feel¬ 
ing akin to pity, some recollection of the 
days when he too was a stranger in a for¬ 
eign land, seems to stir within Mezzofanti’s 
broad bosom. For instead of allowing you 
to flounder hopelessly through fifty-eight 
stiff pages of the bill of fare, he kindly helps 
you by suggesting that perhaps you would 
like le diner du jour; and at the same 
time he produces an elegant menu, printed 
in dark-blue on cream-tinted paper with a 
flowery pink border. The cream-tinted 
paper appears to you like the flag of hope; 
it is the traditional straw at which the 
drowning man clutches, and you gasp 
‘ Oui, oui,’ hysterically. Thus you have 
chosen—you must eat, not what you like, 
but what suits Desseaux’s pocket; and you 
drop down on one of the comfortable sofas 
in the pleasant dining-room, and hear the 
young Guardsmen exchange opinions (in 
bad French) about the last new dancer at 
the Theatre Berg, till soup arrives, and 
with it another magnificent volume—this 
time the wine-list, naturally open at the 
page containing champagne at six roubles 
and upward. But you are not to be taken 
in, and turning back, select a pint bottle of 
St. Julien at two roubles—a good, safe 
wine, you imagine you know. After the 
soup (which is good, but enriched with too 
many quenelles, croquettes, etc.), and the 
inevitable petits pates, you get stewed beef, 
which you recognise as first cousin to the 
Rindfleisch of Germany and the bouilli of 
France; only the latter costs sixpense a 
plateful, while his Russian relation is more 
expensive and more stringy. To console 


yourself, you turn to the St. Julien. What 
is your horror at finding a sweet, fiery 
compound, of which the curious astrin- 
gency evidently proceeds from sloes, and 
which has nothing common with French 
wine except its color! You proceed natur¬ 
ally to sterlet (a small fish of the sturgeon 
family) a la Russe , which perhaps you will 
like. But after this rich dish you feel the 
want of a little good wine, and therefore 
rather indignantly have the pretended St. 
Julien removed, and order half a bottle of 
Margaux. Calf’s head stewed a la jinan- 
ciere follows, and would be good in its way 
if it were not too rich, like all Russian 
dishes. The Margaux now arrives, and 
proves to be a little more fiery and a little 
less sweet than the St. Julien, but no more 
like claret than its predecessor. However, 
it drinks better when diluted, or perhaps 
you are getting used to it. God forbid the 
latter! for then your palate is hopelessly 
blunted, your taste gone, and you will 
never again appreciate the Sauterne of the 
Maison Doree or the delicious Lafitte of 
Bignon! However, a dish of intensely 
green peas now appears, and you only find 
out when you try them that they are pre¬ 
served, and very badly preserved, too. Ax 
last comes the roast, and if Desseaux does 
his duty it will be fowl, and not game; for 
the former is much more expensive, and 
therefore considered more delicate. Des¬ 
seaux does his duty, and you have the 
pleasure of carving a chicken about the 
size of a large sparrow, and consisting of 
skin, bone, and a few stray feathers. This 
fine bird is accompanied by pickled cu¬ 
cumbers, but as both your own aversion 
and your doctor’s orders prevent your par¬ 
taking of this Russian substitute for salad, 
you feel that you have hardly dined, al¬ 
though you have finished dinner. You 
order a little cheese, then coffee and 
liqueur; and when your bill is brought, 
you philosophize on how much a man 
can spend on his dinner without getting 
enough to eat or anything fit to drink. 
Here it is: 

Rbs. Kps. 

Diner. 3 0 

Pain. 0 20 

St. Julien. 2 0 

Margaux. 3 0 

Cafe. 0 40 

Liqueur, etc. 0 40 

F r oinage. 0 40 

_ 9 40 , or £1 7s. 

And, let it be added, Desseaux is not by 
any means the dearest restaurant in St. 
Petersburg, nor the worst .” 

An odd coincidence! That sketch of a 
St. Petersburg restaurant brings us back to 














92 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


Manhattan Beach and the great bill of 
fare. There is the same soup, the same 
something a la financiere; the same diner 
du jour —d nner of the day—with perhaps 
the same five entrees; the same fromage 
and things at about the same prices and 
the same wines. The restaurants of that 
class are all alike. 

THE OYSTER AND FISH RESTAURANT. 

For something different from the con¬ 
ventional style of first-class restaurant and 
which may be claimed as peculiarly Amer¬ 
ican, we turn with pleasure to the first 
class oyster house, very probably the source 
of more real enjoyment combined with a 
sufficiency of tone or style than any other 
class of public eating house whatever; and 
as sea foods, in the natural order of things, 
become the greater luxuries in proportion 
to their distance from the sea, we shall 
find the best specimens of the oyster and 
fish house in the very centers of the con¬ 
tinent, in the large cities of the interior, 
probably nowhere better than in Chicago. 
All that the famous gourmands and epi¬ 
cures named in history could do was to 
obtain rare and costly kinds of meats and 
fish, and make them more costly still by 
obtaining them from immense distances 
whither their competitors and their purses 
could not reach, and even the king of 
romancer, Dumas, could imagine no higher 
achievement for one of his most sumptu¬ 
ous heroes than his feat of procuring a rare 
and peculiar fish found only in one par¬ 
ticular river of the world, brought across 
the wilds of Russia in a tank of water and 
landed in Paris alive, to be served at this 
wonderful entertainer’s next reception. 
The railroads and express service have 
done much to bring all parts of the country 
to the same dead level of equality of mar¬ 
kets, and yet there is a small fence of ex¬ 
clusiveness raised around the inland oyster 
house by the express charges and “oysters 
on the half shell,” which may be too com¬ 
mon at ten cents a dozen at a fish stall on 
the sea-board for their intrinsic excellence 
to be really appreciated, when enhanced in 


flavor by so much per pound charged for 
transporting them a thousand miles or 
more become a luxury worthy of ihe mirr¬ 
ored marble and mahogany halls and 
elaborate styles of service and all accesso¬ 
ries of the best Chicago oyster houses. 

The fine restaurants make the most of 
the great American specialty, oysters, in 
all styles, employing the best cooks in that 
peculiar line that money can procure and 
adopting every new device for presenting 
the luscious bivalve in the most tempting 
forms. In addition they serve fish of every 
saleable variety, shell fish such as lobsters, 
crabs, clams, crayfish, scallops and, since 
Dumas’ fils , salade Japonaise has gained 
notoriety, the humbler mussel which ent¬ 
ers into its composition. Salads of all sorts, 
but more especially fish salads, are made 
here in perfection. Very little attention is 
paid to the ordinary meat dishes of the 
restaurants, yet a steak or chop with pota¬ 
toes can be had if any member of a party 
happens to have a distaste for fish foods. 
While these oyster and fish houses do a 
good business at all times of the day they 
are in their glory only at night, when, after 
the ordinary closing hours of business and 
the closing of theatres and other places of 
amusement, they are crowded to their ut¬ 
most capacity and long charcoal ranges 
are covered with oysters roasting in the 
shell, clams likewise, and further on with 
broils, fries, stews, soups, steams and chow¬ 
ders. The chief drawback to this business 
is that it must take a vacation during three 
or four months of summer, when oysters 
are out of season ; or the business must be 
temporarily changed to something to suit 
the time and re-organized every fall. The 
following appended as a sort of guide to 
prices for any one entering the business is 
the bill of fare of a Fulton market oyster 
and fish house. Considering the location it 
ought to show the bottom prices which a 
good house can afford to accept close to 
the chief source of supply; Chicago prices 
ought to be and probably are.higher, and 
Denver or other more distant cities should 
obtain prices higher still: 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


93 


AN OYSTER AND LUNCH ROOM. 

Bill of Fare 

FUL TON MARKET, NEW YORK CITY. 


Ox Tail Soup.20 

Chicken Soup.20 


SOUPS. 


Bisque of Oysters.20 

“ Clams.20 


Saddle Rock Roast.35 

“ “ Fry. 

“ “ Stew.35 

“ “ Raw.35 

“ “ Broil.,.35 

Extra Saddle Rock Roast.50 

“ “ •“ Fry. S o 

. Stew.50 

“ “ “ Broil.50 

. Raw.50 


Green Turtle Soup.40 

OYSTERS. 


Steamed Clams.35 

Clam Chowder.25 

“ Stew.25 

“ Fr y. 35 

“ Roast.35 


CLAMS. 


Plate of Raw.20 

Stew.25 

Boston Stew.5° 

Fancy Broil.5° 

Box Stew.30 

Oyster Fritters.35 

Pickled Oysters.25 

Oyster Pattie. 25 

Bricassee Oysters.3'g 

Saddle Rock Fry in Box.35 


Fried Scallops.35 

FISH. 


Clam Fritters.35 

Saddle Rock Clam Fry...35 

“ “ “ Stew.35 

Raw Clams.20 

Stewed Scallops.25 


Crab Salad.50 

“ Omelet.50 

Blue Fish. 40 

Weak Fish.40 

Mackerel.40 

Striped Bass.40 

Fish Cakes.30 

Plain Lobster.35 

Lobster Salad.40 

Stewed Lobster.40 

Lobster Pattie.35 

Eels.40 

Halibut. 40 

All other kinds of Fish in Season. 


Smelts.40 

Codfish. 40 

King Fish.40 

Sea Bass.40 

Black Bass. 40 

Deviled Crabs, per doz., to order. .1 50 

Salmon Steak.50 

Soft Crabs.50 

Pompano.75 

Spanish Mackerel.50 

White Bait.... .50 

Fish Chowder (Fridays).25 


Porterhouse Steak.75 

“ “ for two.1 00 

Double Porterhouse.1 25 

Tenderloin Steak.60 

Sirloin Steak. go 

Roast Beef.40 

“ Lamb. 40 

Mutton Chops.40 

Veal Chops.40 

Lamb Chops.40 

Boiled Flam.30 

Fried Frogs.50 


MEATS, ETC, 


Celery.'..20 

Kg? Plant.26 

Green Peas. '5 

Asparagus. ig 

Stewed Corn.ig 

Green Corn. Tg 


Sandwich.ig 

VEGETABLES. 


Cold Boiled Chicken.40 

Sweetbreads.go 

Broiled Chicken.60 

Chicken Salad.go 

Chicken Pattie.40 

Liver and Bacon.40 

Ham and Eggs.40 

Scrambled Eggs.25 

Poached Eggs.25 

Two Eggs (Boiled or Fried).ig 

Plain Omelet.25 

Ham “ 35 


Home-made Pies.10 

Rice Pudding.10 

F'arina Jelly.10 

Peaches and Cream.20 


Cucumbers.10 

DESSERT. 


Fried Sweet Potatoes. Jg 

Stewed Potatoes.10 

Lyonnaise Potatoes .'..10 

French Fried Potatoes.10 

Saratoga Potatoes.10 

Tomatoes (Stewed or Raw). 10 


Coffee. 10 

Tea.10 

Pot Tea.. .... ig 

Extra Pot Tea.25 

Coffee or Tea and Roll.ig 


Apple Fritters.20 

MISCELLANEOUS. 


Water Melon.10 

Musk “ 20 

Corn Starch.10 

Ice Cream.ig 


French Pan Cake.25 

Wheat Cakes. ....ig 

Rolls, each. g 

Chocolate.10 

“ Iced. 10 


Crackers and Milk.ig 

CAME. 

English Snipe....60 | Squab on Toast....60 

Other Game in Season. 








































































































































* THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


HOW THE PAY IS COLLECTED. 

One purpose of going over the different 
classes of business in a talk about restau¬ 
rant stewarding was to observe the differ¬ 
ent methods which restaurateurs adopt 
for collecting the pay from customers. 
Many men think this is the most difficult 
department to control of all in the business, 
and no man pretends yet that he has found 
a perfect plan for getting all the money 
that is due him. In a very small personal 
business it may be quite easy for the pro¬ 
prietor to keep watch of each customer's 
order and remember the amount, but the 
difficulty increases as the volume of trade 
grows larger and personal watching is 
given up altogether and some plan insti¬ 
tuted which affords protection both to cus¬ 
tomer and owner. It is pleasing to think 
that honesty is the rule and the contrary 
the rare exception, yet these exceptional 
cases give a world of trouble and uneasi¬ 
ness, and in the largest cities, where thiev¬ 
ing is the trade of a few, the opportunities 
afforded by the crowded restaurants and 
lunch houses are duly improved and every 
device of ingenuity is brought into play by 
expert thieves in waiters’ dress to intercept 
the money paid in by the customers on its 
way to the cash box, one of the commonest 
being to overcharge the customer and 
keep the extra money themselves. The 
most noted and successful Parisian restau¬ 
rateur of the present time, according to 
the story-tellers of the press, was at one 
time on the very verge of financial ruin 
although doing an immense business, and 
was only saved from the final crash 
and lifted up to great wealth by the dis¬ 
covery of an effective system of checking 
meals as sold. 

THE COMMON MEAL CHECK. 

The common way and which seemingly 
is good enough for a small business is to 
provide small cards printed with the small 
sums and perhaps a line or tw r o, as: 


Your Bill Is 

20 Cents. 

Please Pay at the Cashier’s 
Desk. 


These are kept in separate compartment 
boxes like silver change according to their 
denomination; the headwaiter or cashier 
or cook, or whoever has the responsibility 
of keeping them in charge, hands one to 
the waiter with the order, who lays it be¬ 
side the customer’s plate. If the latter 
orders something additional the waiter 
takes away the first check and replaces it 
with another bearing the larger amount. 
On leaving, the customer hands the check 
and his money to the cashier or proprietor. 
This is the simplest and commonest of all 
methods, yet it affords scarcely any pro¬ 
tection to the proprietor if the waiters care 
to be in collusion with customers, as they 
can easily manage to change checks or 
give those of less denomination than the 
dish ought to be sold for; in short, for a 
dozen reasons this plan is useless for pro¬ 
tection, but is merely a means of expedit¬ 
ing business by putting all the changing 
of money into the hands of one person, the 
cashier, who does nothing else. Yet, this 
is the only method employed in the 
crowded bakery lunch houses before men¬ 
tioned, where the waiters carry assorted 
checks loose in their apron pockets and 
hand them out to customers as near right 
as they can remember to do, or as near as 
the checks in pocket will fit the case, for 
they have not time to go after more always. 
There the great effort of the proprietors is 
to prevent the customers going out with¬ 
out yielding up either the check or the 
money, and w r atchmen try to keep eves on 
the occupants of the lunch stools as they 
change and move towards the door. The 
same free-and-easy plan suffices for the 
dairy lunch houses and most of the com¬ 
mon restaurants in Chicago, and it speaks 
well for the honor and honesty of both 
customers and waiters that such an insuffi- 







TIIE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


95 


cient system of checking can prevail to 
such an extent and the proprietors not feel 
any appreciable loss from it. Even in the 
best oyster houses, where the individual 
bills may vary from fifty cents to five dol¬ 
lars or any higher sum, the method is the 
sime and only a little more strict in the 
custody of the tickets, the proprietors re¬ 
ceiving the money perhaps being able to 
keep a very fair run of the orders as they 
are served. 

THE WRITTEN ORDER CHECK. 

One of the restaurant keepers briefly 
alluded to in a former chapter, professed 
not to believe in the honor or honesty of 
any person where money is concerned. 
It may have been only his business code 
which he thus expressed, for some men 
are different when they put off their busi¬ 
ness coat and become more human. This 
strict man had to let the ordinary lunch 
business of his place run on with only the 
common check in use in so many places, 
trusting something to the tried old em¬ 
ployes, whom he had watched for years, 
and much to his own keen supervision of 
receipts and expenditures; but in his res¬ 
taurant, where the amounts of the bills 
were larger and the orders more compli¬ 
cated, he had a system of doub'e checking, 
or more strictly triple checking, w’hich was 
clumsy, but “it w’O. ked” to his satisfaction. 
He had a colored head waiter and a white 
cashier—the less likely to be too friendly 
and in collusion against him—both having 
the same desk for headquarters, the cashier 
of course seated, the headwaiter here and 
there and back again. When a customer 
came in and ordered from the bill of fare 
the headwaiter wrote down his order in 
full with the money total added, numbered 
it, tore the leaf from the tab and deposited 
it like a ballot in a box, gave the waiter the 
next leaf, which was a duplicate with the 
saftie number, to place by the customer’s 
plate, and so went on with the next order. 
When the customer departed he brought 
his check to the cashier and paid it, and 
the cashier dropped the check into his 


ballot box. When the customer ordeied 
something additional, an additional num¬ 
bered check was given, and the same per¬ 
son might have four or five checks in hand 
instead of one. At convenient intervals 
the proprietor would go over the head- 
waiter’s original checks and the cashier’s 
currency, and if there were any discrepan¬ 
cies the matter could be explained while 
the transaction was still fresh in the mind 
—as it might have occurred that Mr. Such- 
a-number refused to pay for a certain dish 
or changed his order to something else. 
In this case the headwaiter was required 
to be a rapid writer and the business was 
only of moderate dimensions, it might not 
have worked so well in a crowd. 

THE HIDDEN WATCH SYSTEM. 

In many places there are various cash 
articles, such as cigars, drinks, fruits, con¬ 
fectionary, etc., sold and paid for at the 
same time that the meal check from the res¬ 
taurant is paid, and a watch is placed over 
the cashier to keep tally of the things sold. 
Usually this is an elevated box like a pew 
in a church with a curtain screen, in which 
perhaps the proprietor’s wife, or some such 
interested person, spends part or most of 
the day; the entrance being so arranged 
that ihe party handling the cash never 
knows when the watcher is absent, if ever. 
A similar watch is placed in some estab¬ 
lishments over the order department in the 
kitchen. 

THE GREAT AMERICAN RESTAURANT 
SYSTEM. 

There is a curious though distant resem¬ 
blance between the most carefully con¬ 
ducted English hotels and such American 
restaurants as are attached to the great 
resort hotels, in their methods of dealing 
with the issuance of cooked dishes to the 
waiters. The former keep the cooking 
separate from the carving and serving de¬ 
partment, Each joint of meat or measure 
of cooked vegetables is weighed as it leaves 
the kitchen in presence of a clerk, who 
enters the amount in a book, and the carv- 




96 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ing and serving department is required to 
show what becomes of it aftei wards and 
whether each dish returned a profit or loss. 
The great restaurant system is simpler. 
The kitchen sells each dish outright to the 
waiter, who must pay for what he calls for 
and sell it in turn to the customer in the 
dining room. It may be observed that the 
Manhattan Beach bill of fare has at the 
top in bold type this notice: “Guests will 
pay their bills to the waiters and see that 
the prices charged correspond with those 
in the bill of fare.” The restaurant is al¬ 
ready secured; the party at the table must 
see to it that the waiter does not impose 
upon him, charge him too much; bring a 
half portion and charge for a whole; bring 
a steak for one and obtain pay for a steak 
for two. 

The proprietors of one of these crowded 
resort restaurants, whose customers are 
numbered by thousands daily, told a re¬ 
porter there is positively no other way, it 
is the only method possible where over a 
hundred waiters are employed; by any 
other plan the waiters would manage to 
secure all the profits to themselves. 

THE BOUILLONS-DUVALS SYSTEM. 

The system of popular, cheap and good 
Parisian restaurants, world-renowned un¬ 
der the name of the Bouillons-Duvals, 
have received the most unbounded praise 
and also most unmitigated abuse, yet their 
growth and success has been so remarkable 
as to prove their excellence and value in 
spite of all detractors. The truth seems to 
be that they disappoint some visitors with 
their small portions served, their bare 
marble tables without tablecloths; their 
female waiters; a certain sort of want of 
style; and that is really what they are for 
and why they succeed—they are popular 
restaurants. But, whatever may be said, 
nobody doubts the perfect soundness of the 
methods employed to secure for the estab¬ 
lishment every cent of the money it earns, 
without a shadow of injustice to the patron. 
This is the system which, it seems, ought 
to supersede the present crowded lunch 


counters of Chicago and all other large 
cities. The same urgent vant of a place to 
obtain a decent meal in the shortest time 
and at a small cost was felt in the great 
city of Paris that is experienced here, and 
his Duval plan proved to be the right 
thing at the right time. Beginning with 
one small soup house the Duval system 
has grown to a powerful company running 
over fifty restaurants in one city, their 
buying, importing, butchering and baking 
operations being now of as great magnitude 
as if all the hotels, restaurants and lunch 
houses of Chicago should throw their trade 
into one pool, all drawing from the same 
supply warehouses. Bouillon-Duval has 
a rather pretty look in French, but in 
literal English it is but Soup-Duval—we 
should say Soup-John’s restaurant. Duval 
was a poor butcher who in 1854 opened a 
small place where he sold at first nothing 
but soup and beef, the Frenchman’s home 
fare, bouilli-et-botiillon —boiled beef and the 
broth it was boiled in—but these midday 
lunches crowded him so that he had to 
move into larger quarters and, needing 
assistance, he found it necessary to marry 
a young woman who was quick at figures 
and had a talent for business. They in¬ 
creased the scope of their restaurant busi¬ 
ness somewhat and got along so fast that 
Duval did what so many do disastrously* 
he rented a fine and expensive building* 
furnished it “with all the modern improve¬ 
ments”—presumably on credit—and also 
with a new project of his own; a scheme 
for furnishing free soda water to each lable 
and put in the necessary apparatus. But 
this enterprise broke him up. He came 
out Ihe loser of about $40,000. Then he 
began again in a small way, and his wife* 
looking back over what had occurred* 
thought she saw plainly the cause of their 
misfortune in the reflection that when they 
did a small business they could control t^ie 
receipts themselves and secure all that was 
coming to them; when the business became 
so large that their employes had part con¬ 
trol they lost. Their business increased* 
or, rather, their former patrons stuck to 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


97 


them, and Madame Duval invented the 
check system which is till in use in all the 
Duval establishments; it is called the key¬ 
stone of the whole Duval system. After 
that Duval went on prospering and increas¬ 
ing the number of his restaurants. He 
died in 1870 worth over a million. He had 
previously converted his extensive business 
into a joint stock affair, himself being pre¬ 
sident of the company, and when he died 
his widow was appointed to the same office 
in his place. 

One distinguishing peculiarity of the Du¬ 
val system is its dealing in very small 
change; it does not disdain the copper cent. 
This might militate against its adoption in 
our western cities, and yet it must be re¬ 
membered that the one-cent and two-cent 
newspapers were met at the start with the 
same obstacle, but overcame it. In a Du¬ 
val restaurant, while a person must pay for 
what he orders, he needs not pay even for 
a slice of bread more than he wants; bread 
is charged for the same as anything else, 
and if a loaf cost four cents the customer 
will have to pay only i cent for a quarter. 
But this does not prevent a customer from 
spending as many dollars as he pleases in 
ordering a fine dinner with wines and 
extras. 

Another is the employment of female 
waiters only. They must be respectable 
married women; all are dressed in a sort 
of uniform, which a correspondent likens 
to-the Sisters of Charity; the reality is, 
however, the establishment supplies them 
with dresses of black or gray alpaca, white 
apron, tulle cap and white linen sleeves, 
and a silvered brooch bearing their num¬ 
ber in plain letters. This number they 
are obliged to mark on the customer’s 
ticket when taking his order. They each 
have to wait on sixteen chairs; work from 
nine in the morning until nine at night, 
and receive twelve dollars per month 
wages and two meals a day. It is supposed 
that most of them make about a dollar a 
day average, besides, from gratuities. 

The Duval system of checking, upon 
which so much stress is laid and with 


which these waitresses have much to do, 
consists in this: A person entering is 
handed a ticket from the window of the 
controlleur , a bit of pasteboard a good deal 
like tbe conductor’s check showing the 
towns and distances on our railroads; it is 
a miniature bill of fare containing some 
sixty or seventy items with prices at¬ 
tached. When he has taken his seat at 
a table, the waitress takes his ticket and 
marks a charge of 1 cent for “the cover”— 
for the setting of the plate, knife and fork, 
salt and pepper and glass of water. If he 
wants a tablecloth instead of the bare 
marble, he can have one for an additional 
cent; if ice in his drinking water it will be 
one cent more, and then he goes on to 
order his lunch or dinner of pretty much 
the same dishes that are served at lunch 
houses and restaurants of the cheaper sort 
in this country. The prices are low, but 
the portions served are likewise small— 
they are such portions as our friends the 
drummers term samples and kick at in 
some of our really excellent hotels, but in 
either place the hungry man can order 
more. The Duval waiters will bring an¬ 
other portion and add another sm <11 charge 
for it to the ticket, in fact would keep on 
doing so all day; these restaurants sell at 
the cheapest rate, but do not give an ounce 
of anything for nothing. 

The customer on departing leaves two 
or three cents by the side of his plate for 
the waitress, takes his ticket to the lady 
cashier who adds up the amount, takes his 
money, stamps the ticket and gives it back 
to him and he then delivers it to the con¬ 
troller, from whom he received it, as he 
passes out. A correspondent, remarking 
upon the various kinds of restaurants in 
Paris, says there is no possibility of collu¬ 
sion, the system is a perfect protection. In 
regard to a quite satisfactory dinner he took 
in company with a friend, he says: “We 
had tapioca soup, fried sole, roast beef with 
potatoes and o-lery, chicory salad, maca¬ 
roons, and coffee, ice cream, a quart and a 
half of Sauterne, and a pint of champagne. 
, The bill was exactly thirteen francs or 




98 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


about $2.47. In any other restaurant that I 
ever dined at the bill would certainly have 
been $5, the quality of the food being the 
same. In New York the amount of the bill 
would not have paid for the wine.” 

It is said the total number of meals 
served in the combined Duval restaurants 
of Paris aggregate three and a half millions 
each year. 

The most extensive firm of London res¬ 
taurant keepers, Messrs. Spiers and Pond, 
about two or three years ago started a Du¬ 
val restaurant in London, which doubtless 
is running yet. It was patterned after the 
Paris original in nearly every respect, yet 
there were slight modifications made to 
accord better with British tastes, and the 
prices charged were considerably higher 
than the original Duval’s. An enterpris¬ 
ing American hotel man, who is now the 
proprietor of the Hotel Bellevue, Phila¬ 
delphia, a year or two ago adopted or tried 
to adopt the Duval system of checking, if 
nothing else; the result of the experiment 
is not known to the one writing this. It 
is said of the first introduction of that check 
system in Paris: “There was at first some 
difficulty in inducing the public to accept 
the card on entering, while many refused 
to give it up on leaving. Ultimately, how¬ 
ever, good sense, firmness and courtesy 
triumphed, the system was securely estab¬ 
lished, and thenceforth the success of Du¬ 
val was assured.” 

SPIERS AND pond’s LONDON RESTAU¬ 
RANTS. 

The great firm of London caterers men¬ 
tioned above as instituting a Duval restau¬ 
rant in the English capital “on trial,” in 
that proceeding did but give another ex¬ 
ample of the wonderful push and enter¬ 
prise which has made them famous as the 
leading firm in the refreshment catering 
line of the present time, probably of any 
time, for the number and magnitude of 
their contracts have no parallel, and a his¬ 
tory and description of their operations 
alone would fill a book. Messrs. Spiers 
and Pond (the latter recently deceased) are 


Australians who went to London and com¬ 
menced business in a small way. The 
individuality of the firm, like that of the 
Duval’s in Paris, was merged in a stock 
company after awhile, and the most re¬ 
markable of their operations since have 
been in the line of catering for thousands 
at a time at expositions and celebrations. 
Still they have a number of restaurants in 
operation in various parts of the great city, 
the largest and perhaps the best represent¬ 
ative of their particularly English methods 
is the Criterion, which a correspondent of 
the Boston Advertiser describes as follows: 

“ One of the unique fixtures of London, 
and a fixture which has nothing resem¬ 
bling it in any city of the United States, is 
the far-famed Criterion, that monster pur¬ 
veyor to the wants of the inner min, both 
fluid and solid. 

“New York has her Delmonico’s and 
Boston has her Young’s; but the Criterion 
is not to London what these two vast eat¬ 
ing establishments are to their respective 
cities. Both Young’s and Delmonico’s 
cater to the ultra-fashionable class to a 
greater or less extent, while that class of 
people in the English metropolis, when 
they dine publicly at all, frequent the Me- 
tropole, the Langham or the Bristol. Still, 
at the Criterion one finds at different times 
almost all classes of people, from the 
countryman, the business man, the how¬ 
ling swell, up to that class which just falls 
short of the ‘very nobs’ themselves. 

“The Criterion fronts on Picadilly, Re¬ 
gents Circus, from which busy, noisy local¬ 
ity one ascends a few broad steps and finds 
himself in the main dining room and bar 
of Messrs. Spiers and Pond’s sumptuous 
eating house. You find none of that gaudy 
show in decoration which is peculiar to our 
American bar room or dining hall. Every¬ 
thing about the place speaks for itself in 
the good, true, heavy, old English style. 

“Your attention is first attracted as you 
enter the Criterion by the stalwart retainer, 
with his silver chain around his neck, readv 
to answer any and all questions which the 
new-comer might put to him, and to direct 









THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


99 


you this way cr that. On your left as you 
enter and at the further end of this apart¬ 
ment is what to the native American might 
be considered as the most peculiar feature 
of this most complete establishment. 

“To the man who is accustomed to order 
his champagne cocktail or his gin-fizz from 
a row of 4 bar-keeps,* clad in their spotless 
linen and duck, their whole make-up the 
very pink of perfection, the sight of eight 
or more fine, buxom, wholesome looking 
English girls behind the mahogany would 
probably be a novel, not to say a pleasing 
and interesting picture. At any rate, pleas¬ 
ing or displeasing, this is in store for him 
who visits the Criterion, and the writer 
believes that hundreds of visiting Ameri¬ 
cans go in there just for the purpose of 
feasting the eye on this array of female 
talent. 

“Thesebarmaids are all of them selected 
for their fine physique, their hair cut short, 
man fashion, their white collars turned 
down over their black gowns. They are 
girls of good repute, attending strictly to 
their business, and allowing no familiarity 
or freedom of speech, although a part of 
their stock in trade is to be possessed of 
pleasing and taking manners, easy flow of 
words, a certain knack at wholesome re¬ 
partee, and other like characteristics which 
shall command a certain amount of custom. 
At this bar you will find groups of men, 
young and old, calling for their 4 mug of 
bitters,’ their ‘thr’penny’ or ‘fo’penny’ 
glass of ‘cold Irish’ or ‘cold Scotch,’ 
and these latter drinks are not served to 
the customer in the bottle, with the priv¬ 
ilege of taking a ‘bath’ or anything of that 
sort. If you call for a ‘fo’penny Irish’ 
you get a ‘fo’penny Irish’ and no more. 
Your girl in black draws it from little 
wooden kegs, measuring it in a gauged 
measure, pouring it into the glass and 
setting it before >ou. 

“There is no elaborate display of glass¬ 
ware. Great shining ‘beer pulls’ show 
themselves at stated intervals, and heavy 
decanters of sherry, port and other wines 
are in sight everywhere. These, together 


with a goodly display of dainty bits just 
suited for the noon-day lunch, and not for¬ 
getting the girls behind it, go to make up 
the furnishing of the noted bar. Every¬ 
thing here is straight, no mixed drinks 
be'ng served. 

“Directly opposite the bar are small tables, 
placed in little crescent-shaped alcoves, 
around which are luxuriously upholstered 
wall seats, the very place for a cozy tete-a- 
tete lunch with your best friend. 

“Do you wish for a mixed drink? The 
place for that is the American bar, in a 
little room leading off the main room. 
Here one can get American drinks served 
in the most approved American style. The 
only thing about them that might not be 
approved by all Americans is that the 
price for every drink served over this bar 
is one shilling; with no two-for-a-quarter 
transactions about them. The sherry which 
you pay ‘fo’penny’ for at the large bar is 
the identical sherry which you pay a shil¬ 
ling for at the American bar, a fact which 
proves that one must know the ins and 
outs in order to save his pence. The 
American bar is patronized to a consider¬ 
able extent by Englishmen as well as by 
the nationality after whom it takes its 
name. This, as well as the main room, is 
patronized by the American colony of 
actors which of late have been so favorably 
received in London. 

“Nearly opposite the further end of the 
bar you pass through an embossed glass 
door and down the easy flight of steps 
which lead you into the famous ‘Grill 
Room.’ Placed around this room are little 
tables for two, covered with snow-white 
cloths. Here you can order a ‘chump 
chop,’ a broiled pork sausage with broiled 
tomatoes, all of which dishes are specialties 
of the grill room. Steaks or cuts from the 
joints are served here in the most approved 
English style, and are kept nicely hot with 
little pewter covers for each individual 
plate, which fit over it to perfection. In 
this room the patrons are of a more solid 
character, with here and there the pater¬ 
familias with his rosy-cheeked daughters 





100 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


in town for a day’s shopping. There is a 
back entrance to the grill room from Jer- 
myn street, by means of which ladies can 
enter without being obliged to run the 
gauntlet of observing eyes in front of the 
bar. As you pass out of the back entrance 
you run accross one of those omnipresent 
‘drop-in-a-penny ’ affairs, by means of 
which you may obtain a finely flavored 
Egyptian cigarette if you wish it. 

** The tw r o stories above the main room 
are fitted up with special rooms, set apart 
for different classes of dining. As you go 
up the stairs you meet with placards, for 
instance, on which you read ‘ Diner Pari- 
sien, 5 francs,’ and on which placard is 
given the bill of fare for the day. On an¬ 
other you will see ‘ Dinner, 5 shillings,’ to¬ 
gether with an English menu. In this 
French dining room the waiters are all 
French and small individual tables are 
daintily set, each table lighted by candela- 
bras in the evening, placed in the centre 
and shedding a soft and pleasant light over 
the room. The English dinner is such as 
would meet the requirements of the purely 
English good-liver. Other rooms are de¬ 
voted to the use of private parties. 

“ Perhaps one of the pleasant features of 
the Criterion is what is known as the 
‘Glee Dinner.’ The room where this is 


given occupies almost the entire upper 
floor of the building, and is a very large 
and spacious apartment, with tables hold¬ 
ing from four to a dozen, the whole room 
capable of seating 200 or more. The din¬ 
ner costs you ‘three and six,’ with three 
pence additional for attendance. For this 
moderate sum you get soup, fish, choice of 
several joints, choice of several entrees, 
choice of several Vegetables, followed by a 
sweet. The attractive feature, however, 
is the music given by a chorus of glee 
singers to while away the waits between 
the courses. On a raised platform at one 
end of the room is a double quartet of men 
and a dozen or more boys, chosen from 
the churches, who sing old English glees 
at intervals during the evening, while din¬ 
ner is going on, and the music is really 
admirable. 

“ Such are a few of the many features of 
the Criterion. The whole establishment 
is over the Criterion Theatre, where 
Wyndham’s famous company nightly de¬ 
light London audiences, and which theatre 
is, as every one knows, entirely below the 
street level. In coming out of the building 
you find yourself once more in busy Picca¬ 
dilly with its continuously passing throng, 
and you say to your friend, ‘ See you again 
to-morrow night in the glee room at six.’ ’* 


CLUB STEWARDING AND CATERING. 


Clubs having no “proprietor” or one 
who stands in the hotel landlord’s place, 
are organized as to their eating and drink¬ 
ing departments in either of these two 
ways: The smaller clubs have a house 
committee which hires a steward and puts 
him in full charge of the culinary depart¬ 
ment, holding him accountable in monthly 
statements to the committee, when his 
books are required to show whether the 
kitchen is making or losing money for the 
club. As the club members are tacitly 


expected, but not bound, to take their 
meals and extra suppers at the club the 
steward’s ability as a caterer to set an at¬ 
tractive table often has a telling effect 
upon the club’s prosperity. 

Some of the largest and most noted clubs 
of the world pursue a different plan and 
appoint a caterer, who acts very much in 
the position of an independent tradesman, 
agreeing to furnish the meals, whether 
regular or private, entirely on his own 
responsibility, taking his own risks of sell- 









THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


101 


ing or not selling and rendering accounts 
to no one but himself, being really the 
restaurant-keeper of the club’s restaurant, 
with an established scale of prices and 
making all he can out of the club’s patron¬ 
age. Such a caterer has to employ inside 
stewards and all other employes very much 
the same as a hotel proprietor does, the 
special difference being that the caterer is 
usually chosen by the club on account of 
his being already a renowned cook, who 
will exercise his special function for the 
club’s benefit, and in that respect he is far 
different from the mere refreshment con¬ 
tractors, who undertake the feeding of a 
multitude at so much per head. To be the 
steward of a club is not materially different 
from being steward of a first-class hotel, 
where a man to fill the position must be 
well up in party giving; in small, but ex¬ 
pensive suppers, and he must have a 
knowledge of wines and liquors, more 
intimate and critical than the average 
hotel steward has any need of. 

ABOUT CLUBS IN GENERAL. 

A good deal has been said about the 
difficulty of filling the positions offered by 
club houses, and it is true that only a few 
men are adapted to become the abject ser¬ 
vants which the aristocratic club idea re¬ 
quires them to be. There are in the largest 
cities healthful and useful sorts of clubs, 
like the Union League Club of Chicago, 
where business men derive real benefit 
from having a central place of their own 
in which to lunch or dine, to take a friend 
and pass an evening. They order from 
their own kitchen whatever special dishes 
they please, but at the same there is a reg¬ 
ular lunch and dinner prepared by the best 
cooks, who are allowed the same freedom 
to make the bill of fare include their own 
best dishes and specialties that they would 
be accorded in any fine hotel, much to the 
advantage of the members, who thus bene¬ 
fit by whatever their employes’ experience 
may have taught them. Some clubs in Lon¬ 
don and elsewhere have been noted for cer¬ 
tain specialties in diet, the same as many res¬ 


taurants, and the club members anywhere 
are proud of any such distinguishment. 

About the “softest job” for a steward 
who is not over-scrupulous is to be found 
in the provincial club of some small town. 
These clubs are little more than drinking 
houses in disguise, probably genteel gamb¬ 
ling houses as well. The members affect 
the airs of large city clubs, but are not 
numerous nor wealthy enough to support 
the pretention. For waiters they have 
lackeys dressed in swallow-tail coats with 
brass buttons, who are required to tremble 
when they frown, and they do frown ter¬ 
ribly when the waiter, who has to put 
the suger in their tea and stir it up for 
them, makes the dreadful error of putting 
in three lumps -when he ought to know 
they never take but two. They have a 
steward upon whom they rest all the cares 
and responsibility of running their kitchen, 
restaurant and liquor “cellar.” They are 
usually in debt for their building and losing 
money every month besides, and, while a 
church society in such a case can resort to 
various means of raising the indebtedness, 
the club is too proud to do anything but 
suffer. But all this does not affect the 
steward’s position or lessen its value. Only 
the club members are to be pitied. They 
are obliged to spend their money at the 
club restaurant and take their meals there 
to help it along, and obliged to buy the 
wines and suppers for their friends there, 
although the fact of the club’s being in 
debt is excuse enough for everything being 
charged for higher than would be the case 
at Delmonico’s in New York. But “they 
that dance must pay the fiddler;” the stew¬ 
ard who finds himself in such a position 
must expect frequent changes to occur and 
must do the best he can. As the club 
system combines, at least in the case of 
business men’s clubs, both the table d'hote 
or hotel plan for regular club boarders and 
the restaurant or private party plan, an 
intimate knowledge of both is required by 
the club steward and a special readiness to 
tell how much such a meal will cost for 
how many. 






102 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


PARTY CATERING. 

The tendency to choose the principal 
hotels of a city as the place to give party 
spreads as well as public banquets is on 
the increase, and it is now the case that in 
some of the largest there is scarcely a night 
in the week during the winter season that 
one or several such entertainments do not 
take place, and it has come to be a part of 
the hotel business and is provided for with 
special dining halls and all proper catering 
appliances to a great extent independent of 
the regular daily business. Where such 
arrangements are made for the purpose, 
the probabilities of the little supper or the 
fashionable reception or grand banquet 
being served in a satisfactory manner are 
much greater than when it is ordered from 
some professed caterer’s independent es¬ 
tablishment, the latter having to contend 
with the scarcely surmountable difficulties 
of transporting the prepared food and re¬ 
freshments in wagons through the streets 
to their destination with all the shaking 
up, mixing and disarrangements attending 
such an operation. The experienced ca¬ 
terer is always seeking means and appli¬ 
ances to prevent such damage, and the 
successful men are those who accomplish 
most in the way of prevention. However, 
the hotel has immense advantages in that 
respect. 

The stewards in such cases are called 
upon to meet requirements as widely dif¬ 
ferent as can be imagined; the character 
of the entertainments running through all 
stages from the most economically planned 
charitable affairs to the most elaborate and 
costly complimentary banquets, and noth¬ 
ing is more common than for two just such 
extremes to meet on the same night in the 
same hotel. While I propose to give some 
examples of actual spreads with the 
amounts of provisions consumed and the 
cost, I will say plainly that they are far 
less likely to help the inexperienced stew¬ 
ard than will be the learning of a few fun¬ 
damental rules, which I have found so use¬ 
ful myself as to regard them as infallible. 


I will name them in order and also note 
the exceptions and occasional disappoint¬ 
ments, which are in the nature of accidents 
which nobody can entirely guard against. 
But first as to 

MISTAKES IN ENTERTAINING. 

We can never find out from the pub¬ 
lished reports in the newspapers whether 
an entertainment tendered for some speci¬ 
fic purpose was satisfactory to those en¬ 
tertained or not, particularly if the good 
name of the town is involved, it is the pa¬ 
pers’ business to say the pleasant things 
and leave the unpleasant unsaid, and com¬ 
mon politeness compels the guests if dis¬ 
appointed to keep their thoughts to them¬ 
selves, or at least among themselves, and 
so we can go on committing the same 
blunders over again. I venture to think 
that grave mistakes are being made con¬ 
stantly when complimentary dinners and 
suppers are tendered through the hotel 
trying to “show off” too much, at the ex¬ 
pence of the enjoyment of the people en¬ 
tertained. As caterers, stewards and cooks 
we are not always responsible for this, for 
those who order must have style at what¬ 
ever s crifice, but as we are often consulted 
and frequently given entire control I will 
show what seems to me to be mistakes by 
two or three instances. 

An excursion party of prominent men 
from a distant state, numbering about 
twenty, went to a noted summer hotel 
upon in vita* ion of the proprietors in the 
height of the season and arrived just as 
dinner was beginning. If the real enjoy¬ 
ment of these guests and enduring pleas¬ 
ant memories of the visit had been the 
chief thought and object of the entertain¬ 
ers, they would have been delayed half an 
hour, perhaps an hour, and then conducted 
to the best tables, given good waiters and 
the very same bill of fare which the hund¬ 
red or two of gaily-dressed, summer-enjoy¬ 
ing regular guests were deriving pleasant 
satisfaction from; they would have chosen 
as they pleased, had sociable surroundings, 
could have finished dinner in an hour and 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


made to feel at home. The onlv man con¬ 
sulted about it chose differently, however, 
and thought nothing would do justice to 
the occasion but a dinner in about ten 
courses, and as it was neither advisable 
nor practicable to cook a fresh dinner some 
portion of the regular dinner—already old 
—was saved. The guests were kept wait¬ 
ing for two hours after arrival, a special 
long table was set lonesomely enough in a 
corner of the great dining room and the 
tedious course dinner doled into the poor 
fellows through two weary hours, they 
being forced to sit and submit for polite¬ 
ness' sake, although before they got 
through the other watch of waiters was 
buzzing around them preparing the tables 
for the next grand meal. The published 
resolutions of thanks in the papers next 
day were all right, yet I don’t believe they 
enjoyed the visit or the dinner or would 
consent to go through it all again, and 
don’t think that was the way they should 
have been treated. What did they care 
whether that particular headwaiter knew 
how to serve dinners in courses or not? 
They were on a summer pleasure trip and 
wanted summer fare and lightsomeness. 

A similar affair occurred in another 
place where the guests—also an excursion 
party present by invitation—did express 
their impatience with a too tedious banquet 
and arose and left it unfinished. They 
were well-known capitalists, about seventy 
in the party, and had been feasted, recep- 
tioned and banqueted to the limit of endur¬ 
ance and came to this place at night tired. 
The proprietors, just retiring from the 
business, seized the opportunity to make a 
parting display and, instead of the informal 
little reception at first intended, spread 
themselves out and made a really elaborate 
and expensive banquet in ten courses. 
The guests intended to be honored sat 
down and managed to contain their impa¬ 
tience while course after course was rushed 
in with all possible expedition until they 
had endured nearly two hours of it, when 
they incontinently rose, locked the doors 
that led in from the kitchen, marched out 


103 

of the front doors and went to bed, leaving 
the remaining one third of the luxuries for 
whom it might concern. And they did 
just right. 

The next instance of overdoing was not 
stamped a mistake in any such emphatic 
way, and the local papers were good 
enough to apply their choicest terms of 
praise after it was over, yet I have it among 
my foremost examples of blunders in this 
line. About 200 Knights, of no matter 
what order, from a western city were to be 
entertained by the local lodge of a country 
town acting as a committee for the town, 
the citizens at large having subscribed to 
defray the expenses. They let the job to 
a caterer for a set sum and left everything 
to his discretion, only evincing an excus¬ 
able anxiety to have the affair redound to 
the credit of the town. Two or three 
assistants were set to work and decorated 
dishes “sur socle ,” and tall cakes were pre¬ 
pared and a stylish sort of menu for a hot 
supper prepared, with green turtle soup in 
the foreground and oysters occupying a 
rather modest place in the rear. The sup¬ 
per passed off successfully and, as already 
said, received plenty of newspaper praise. 
The grand mistake consisted in not making 
it a grand fried oyster supper, as the event 
showed, for the green turtle soup, so far 
from being appreciated as a luxury in that 
far western country, was absolutely not 
even called for while the oysters in every 
style could not be served fast enough by 
all the hands available. The line of rea¬ 
soning had been that oysters were too 
common to make a fine entertainment 
even there, for oysters in bulk frozen were 
plentiful and every little party and every 
sort of festival had been serving oysters 
till there was nothing so common. It 
made no difference, however, the 200 
wanted oysters and cared for nothing else. 
The supplies had been laid in so judiciously 
that fried oysters could be and were served 
half a dozen to each person, and stewed 
oysters without limit, so there was no mis¬ 
fortune. What was wanted to make that 
the most memorable feast those Knights 





104 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


and ladies had ever attended was a plate 
of a dozen double-breaded large oysters, 
properly garnished in Chicago oyster 
house style, with more in reserve if the 
dozen did not suffice, and two-thirds of the 
rest of the banquet might have been left 
unmade, and one day’s work of preparation 
would have made more real success than 
the three days and nights that were really 
consumed in it. 

RULES FOR PARTY CATERING. 

i. Never, if possible to avoid it, agree 
to furnish refreshments for a party without 
having the committee to bind itself to pay 
for some certain number whether they 
come or not. Four times out of five where 
it is a pay party there will be fewer people 
in attendance than were expected, and the 
hotel keeper or caterer who agrees for so 
much per head has to lose all that he has 
prepared in excess, when it sometimes is 
the case that not more than a fourth of 
those provided for ever come. It is made 
the worse for the caterer because ffie mem¬ 
bers of the committee are apt to become 
excited over prospective numbers and in¬ 
duce the provider of the feast at his own 
risk to provide excessive amounts; if on 
their own risk they will be more cautious. 
A few months previous to this writing a 
hotel manager was applied to to furnish 
dinner on a stated day for 500 locomotive 
engineers on their annual celebration, and 
acting on advice, the same as above laid 
down, obtained a contract for 500 dinners 
at a dollar a head. The hotel was already 
crowded, but by an effort, such as hotel 
people can make when they try themselves, 
the extra 500 dinners were prepared and 
the crowd arrived on time, but only 360 
came, and they were well entertained. 
There was, of course, a surplus left over 
of about 140 dinners, but the hotel man¬ 
ager having his contract all right got his 
pay for them and was so much ahead. In 
too many cases the result is different; the 
hotel man takes the risk, loses the 140 
meals and thereby loses all his profits on 
the transaction and works for nothing. 


When it is a free or complimentary feast, 
the proper way is to contract for the prob¬ 
able number and agree to feed all above 
that number at a certain price per head. 

2. When agreeing to furnish refresh¬ 
ments bear in mind that the number agreed 
for does not represent all; there will be 
ni isicians, drivers, attendants, press repre¬ 
sentatives, and various “ complimentaries” 
not counted by the committee; calculations 
must be made for these, especially in an 
expensive spread, and the price made ac¬ 
cordingly. It may be a quail or terrapin 
supper, where it will n t be practicable to 
make distinctions among those who eat 
and twenty, thirty or forty “compliment¬ 
aries” may consume all the profits if the 
caterer allows his estimate and contract to 
run within too narrow margins, particu¬ 
larly when the affair is but thinly attended. 

3. If your hotel waiters, cooks, pantry¬ 
men, dishwashers and others do the extra 
work of a party without extra cost to you, 
that is no affair of the party-givers, the 
prices charged ought to cover the extra 
work done by the hands. All other trades 
and professions charge their customers for 
the labor of their employes, and charge a 
profit upon that labor besides, and there is 
no reason why hotel keepers should do dif¬ 
ferently. 

4. Never, unless for very special reasons, 
agree to furnish refreshments “just for the 
fun of the thing,” imagining that as the ho¬ 
tel is already running it will not really cost 
anything. Such extra spreads disarrange 
your store-room keeper’s accounts and 
make extra book-keeping; they make tired 
help and poor meals and poor service for 
the hotel next day, perhaps for several days, 
and great incidental waste and expenses 
which the proprietor scarcely knows of ex¬ 
cept in the final reckoning. The very special 
reasons noted may be the necessity of ad¬ 
vertising a new hotel; a sort of throwing 
bread upon the waters. Thebread costs some¬ 
thing, perhaps a good deal, nevertheless. 

While the foregoing rules are principally 
directed to hotel-keepers, the next is a most 
valuable guide to every sort of caterer and 











THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


105 


provider of meals, and ought to be kept in 
memory. The worst feature of hotel party¬ 
giving is the large excess of provisions 
always prepared and left over; the prepar¬ 
ing of twice as much as will be needed. 
The fear that there may not be enough is 
the reason of this superabundance, when 
feasts are prepared without any basis of 
calculation, yet it is easy to know in ad¬ 
vance how much will be consumed by any 
given number. 

5. One hundred people at a party will 
eat one hundred pounds of food and drink 
one hundred pints of fluids. 

That is, each person on an average eats 
a pound and drinks a pint. 

One hundred women eat less than the 
same number of men — many men eat 
much more than a pound, but in a mixed 
gathering the average remains as stated. 

6. To furnish one hundred pounds of 
cooked meat, it is necessary to buy two 
hundred pounds, because meats in an aver¬ 
age way lose half their weight in cooking 
and trimming. Chickens and turkeys 
lose more than half their raw weight, hams 
and tongues lose less; fresh meats and fish 
just about half; consequently the calcula¬ 
tion of two hundred pounds of raw meats, 
poultry and fish for one hundred persons 
is near enough for the average and is a 
rule easy to remember. 

7. As each person at a party will eat a 
pound of something , where cheapness is 
demanded the feast should be made up as 
much as possible of things made of flour, 
sugar and, sometimes, eggs. A supper of 
all sorts of fancy yeast-raised cakes with 
lemonade or ice cream can be furnished 
for a few cents per head, while nothing in 
the meat line can be served for less than 
fifty cents and upwards,.—to serve only 
one-half of a canvas-back duck to each 
person may cost one dollar per head for 
that one item alone. 

8. Allow one quail for each person and 
one-third more as a reserve for repeated 
orders at a quail supper or breakfast, but 
half a quail is enough for each person at a 
course dinner, when quail forms the game 


course. Smaller birds such as snipe can 
not be divided. Spring chickens should 
be calculated to serve half a chicken to 
each person, but a good deal depends upon 
their sizes and upon the consideration 
whether chicken is to be the leading dish 
of the meal or only a part of a dinner of 
many courses. 

9. To know how much of each kind of 
meat, game or fish will be required in an 
ample feast, calculate that each person eats 
two ounces of each kind—a cut of beef or 
ham weighs about two ounces, a quarter 
of a young chicken about two ounces, an 
ordinary helping of fish about two ounces, 
sandwiches weigh one or two ounces each 
according to the thinness of the bread. 
Eight different kinds of food served in 
two-ounce portions will make up the pound 
that fills the capacity of the human stom¬ 
ach for solids. 

10. Guard against disaster by being 
well fortified with a reserve of ice cream 
and cake, cold chicken or turkey and ham 
sandwiches. The feast may be all con¬ 
sumed, the dinner or supper over, but if 
these things remain all the late arrivals 
can be made happy. 

11. In some cases, such as winter ex¬ 
cursion parties, the one thing of paramount 
importance is hot coffee and means of 
getting it served in short order. In all 
cases the coffee is the first consideration. 
Provide three-fourths of a pint—that is two 
cups—for each person expected, or nine 
gallons for a hundred people. This will 
require four and a half pounds of ground 
coffee or a pound for two gallons of ordi¬ 
nary coffee, but for strong coffee for a 
regular dinner a pound to one gallon is 
required and less than half the quantity of 
coffee is wanted by each person than is 
necessary to provide for an excursion. 

12. For an oyster supper calculate a 
pint of soup or stew for each pei son, made 
up of one-half oysters (raw measure) and 
one half milk. As both oysters in bulk 
and milk are bought by the gallon this is 
an easy calculation, it is twelve gallons for 
one hundred persons of which six gallons 







10G 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


are bulk oysters and six gallons milk. But 
the ousters yield a large amount of liquor 
in cooking, and when the stews are made 
in these proportions the result will be only 
one-third or even one-fourth of cooked 
oysters in a bowl of oyster stew. 

13. Large and choice oysters for frying 
are bought by the hundied. A dozen will 
fill an ordinary coffee cup. A dozen is a 
portion for an oyster supper; four to six 
for each person are plenty for a hotel 
breakfast. When oysters form part of a 
course dinner four to six for each person 
are enough; that will be a cupful of selects 
for three persons, or four or five gallons of 
large oysters for a hundred persons. It 
will readily be understood that there is a 
great difference between the requirements 
of the boarders at a hotel table, where 
oysters are served as commonly as beef or 
bread, and a party supper where the people 
come especially to eat oysttrs. 

14. Dinners served in courses require 
the preparation of greater quantities than 
for ordinary meals or party suppers, for 
two reasons: first, although all persons do 
not eat the same things and some will eat 
the relishes or vegetables and not touch 
the fish or meat that is set before them, 
yet it is necessary to place upon the table 
enough for every one of each separate 
course, and some of the dishes may be re¬ 
turned to the kitchen scarcely touched; 
and, second, the usual long duration of 
course dinners, being anywhere from one 
to three hours, allows the stomach to be¬ 
come partially emptied of the first suste¬ 
nance and enables people to actually eat 
more at a sitting than the average suffici¬ 
ency. They sit and perhaps sip stimulants 
until they almost become hungry agidn, 
and the caterer may as well make his cal¬ 
culations double for such occasions and 
his charges according. However, nature 
will assert itself at last and the caterei gets 
even who has to furnish a few succeeding 
meals to the same persons. 

SOME EXCEPTIONS. 

And now, having penned down the fore¬ 
going rules which experience has shown 


me are reliable guides to base calculations 
upon—most especially the pound-to a-per- 
son rule, the pint-of-fluids rule and the 
two-ounce-portion rule,— I am obliged to 
talk over some exceptional cases, for fear 
some unguarded young business man may 
be led into trouble through placing a too 
implicit faith in people. Our calculations 
are made for the class of people one ex¬ 
pects to meet at a genteel party gathering- 
and for well-fed and discriminating hotel 
boarders, who do not generally fast a whole 
day beforehand to make ready to gorge 
themselves at the caterer’s spread at night. 
It is a good many years ago, though I re¬ 
member it as if yesterday, a young fellow 
recently started in the restaurant and bak¬ 
ing business, came to me at the hotel where 
I was emp’oyed and said he had just been 
offered the contract to furnish supper for 
200 at fifty cents per head; should he lake 
it? The occasion was a cheap ball at a 
dollar a head including supper, to take 
place in a public hall. Being like all new 
beginners, anxious to secure a run of busi¬ 
ness, he concluded he would and asked me 
to help him with his calculations. I had 
no rules to work by then, but we argued 
that as the hotels could furnish such a good 
and abundant dinner as they do for fifty 
cents, there must ctrtainly be a good profit 
to be made out of a cold supper at the same 
price, no very elaborate work being de¬ 
manded nor anything particularly expens¬ 
ive. Then we sized up the amount of 
dinner that would be needed in a hotel for 
200, and he proceeded on that basis and 
made ready for the night. But a terrible 
night he had of it. He set his pretty tables 
as a young fellow will, with whole chick¬ 
ens, hams and tongues decorated, expect¬ 
ing his assistants to carve them and serve 
everybody as orderly as in a hotel, but he 
did not know the people he had to feed. 
They had evidently been starving them¬ 
selves for the purpose of making a gorge¬ 
ous feast out of this fifty-cent banquet; 
they waited for nothing, but after three 
minutes of wild clamor they went for the 
tables. One seized a whole ham on its dish 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


107 


and took it to the corner where his family 
sat; another took a dish of chickens; an¬ 
other, finding no meat, took a w hole cake, 
another a pyramid of something else; in 
about eight minutes there was not a mor¬ 
sel of anything left on the tables, a few 
little bunches of people had secured every¬ 
thing and the majority really had nothing. 

There is a warning and a lesson for be¬ 
ginners in that, the meats should all have 
been cut up beforehand and many hun¬ 
dreds of sandwiches prepared; whether 
sliced meats, sandwiches, bread, oysters or 
cake, everything should have been in 
small portions upon hundreds of plates, so 
that the people should all have fared alike 
whether they got what they wanted or not, 
and the provisions should have been served 
from behind a barrier—like a table set a 
few feet back covered with plates of supper 
with another table in front as a counter to 
serve from—or else out of small windows. 

But to resume: my young friend was 
then in serious trouble, his supper was all 
gone, yet very few had been fed and a riot 
was beginning. He got some of the big 
bugs of the crowd to spread the word that 
he had plenty more in his bakery and 
would have it brought up immediately. 
Then he took all his assistants and brought 
up everything eatable that his restaurant 
and bakery contained, beginning with cold 
meats, canned goods, boiled eggs, taking 
every pie and cake and loaf of bread and 
at last giving up his boxes of crackers, 
raisins and candies. And still the people 
were unappeased, and scores of them de¬ 
clared they had not got a morsel to eat yet. 
There is no doubt but a good deal of stuff 
was pocketed; then some were beginning 
to see there was lots of fun in this thing, 
particularly those who had secured lion’s 
shares of whole dishes and were laughing 
at the others, and some, perhaps half 
drunk, were hiding and witholding eatables 
out of pure devilment. But my young 
friend still continued his efforts to satisfy 
them all; he was anxious about his reputa¬ 
tion and also feared that the committee 
might try to withold the pay if he did not 


fulfill his part of the contract to furnish 
suppers for all; then he came to me, there 
being no place open to buy at after mid¬ 
night, and we persuaded a good-natured 
hotel-keeper to sell him all the bread and 
cooked meat there was in the house, and 
with that relay and the impatience of the 
company to go on with the dance, the 
trouble was tided over. The young man 
got his pay from the committee without 
trouble, and all but a few of those present 
thought the affair was a fine joke after it 
was over. Of course the caterer lost 
money, far beyond what he had hoped to 
gain in profits, and was badly scared. As 
this recital is but supplementary to the 
rules above, I must add here some maxims 
not less important. Cooking and service 
go together. A pound to a person is suf¬ 
ficient, but you must see that each person 
gets his dues. If one person gets away 
with four portions the other three may 
raise a riot and be in the right, although 
you have done your part in one respect. 
The getting of each portion to each person 
is the art of service. The art of providing 
and cooking is only half, service is the 
other half, without which the first is use¬ 
less. 

The other instances which I intended to 
relate were of private receptions, where 
the youthful guests—perfect bunches of 
flowers to look at—acted astonishly; but 
on second thought I have concluded to say 
nothing about them, but leave the circum¬ 
stances to the readers’ imagination, for 
really all of us who cook and cater have a 
sort of secret love of the hearty eaters, and 
these young people of the very good soci¬ 
ety of very good cities are quite excusable 
for going without their home suppers and 
even their home dinners in order to be 
ready to do full justice to all the good 
things we make for ihem. They live fru¬ 
gally at home, as they must for the sake 
of their healthy growth, and the beautiful 
simple hygienic foods which they grow so 
lovely upon are still rather insipid and 
tasteless. They come to our parties and 
every mouthful they try has a new rich* 








108 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ness, every inorsel has some exquisite and 
unwonted flavor and they cannot resist, 
they must eat and ask for more, they can 
not help it, even though the astonished 
hostess who hais invited them has to go to 
bed with a sick headache in consequence, 
and the young and unsophisticated caterer 
becomes old and gray-haired through the 
terrible experience of a single night. I 
would not even have alluded to these 
things but for the purpose of saying the 
caterer, whoever he or she may be—for 
many ladies are now engaged in the busi¬ 
ness of furnishing refreshments to order to 
‘‘society” people’s entertainments—shou’d 
fortify themselves by having a reserve of 
something plain and common, a quart or 
gallon of the thinnest ice cream unflavored, 
a lot of stale cake, something like sponge 
cake two weeks old, or heavy pound cake 
to taper off these abused feasts with. The 
grown people, the appreciative people, all 
take their sufficiency of the delicacies and 
there is an end as far as they are con¬ 
cerned, and the others, hollow young boys 
and girls who cannot stop, have to be 
weaned and choked off with something 
common. 

BALL SUPPERS. 

It is so commonly the case that the 
dance and the supper both have to take 
place in the one room, the hotel dining 
room, because there is not a second room 
large enough, that, in offering these sug¬ 
gestions, I shall always have to consider 
that the likeliest contingency; yet it is by 
no means the best or pleasantest way to 
carry out such affairs. The best of all 
such parties that I can call to mind have 
been those where there was a ball room 
separate from the supper room, where the 
latter might be prepared in a leisurely 
manner, decorated, set with the best skill 
of the best table men, made to look hand¬ 
some, and at the appointed moment the 
doors were thrown open and the guests 
marched in. Some pleasantly arranged 
hotels have a parlor so large that it serves 
the purpose of a ball room in ordinary 
times, that is for everything but grand 


balls attended by large numbers, and a 
little forethought excercised by the build¬ 
ers of hotels might generally lead to the 
grand parlor and ladies’ ordinary or the 
reading room or some other adjoining, 
being fitted with sliding or removable 
doors, all to be thrown into one ball room 
without interfering with the main dining 
hall at all. The city halls w hich caterers 
serve entertainments in are so arranged as 
to have separate dancing and supper rooms, 
else they are not fit for the purpose, and 
the caterer who finds the hall not so fitted 
should think twice before he undertakes 
the job, for supper-giving becomes a more 
complicated and troublesome affair when v 
the dancers have to be asked to please stop 
while the tables are set in the same room, 
and again while they are cleared away. 

HOW TO SET THE TABLES—SMALL TABLES. 

The most entirely satisfactory w r ay of 
setting out a ball supper, if the pleasure of 
the participants is to be the main object, is 
the setting of the small separate tables the 
same as they are at dinner, although there 
may be something grander and more im¬ 
posing in the sight of two or three long 
tables the whole length of the hall. Your 
small tables are for six or eight seats each; 
the people sit around them, sociably, com¬ 
fortably, and have the proprietorship of 
the one waiter, who knows his station and 
cannot be called aw r ay. Supposing there 
are twenty tables, the requirement is that 
each table be set alike with cold dishes in 
advance of the meal, w-ith plates, silver 
and napkins as for dinner; the people 
march in when the signal is given, take 
their places in groups at their favorite 
tables and help themselves to the supper 
already before them, the waiters being to 
pass dishes from one end to the other, to 
bring in the ices and coffee at the right 
time and replenish any dish that may be 
insufficient in the first setting. 

WHAT TO SET UPON THEM. 

There should be a center piece of flowers 
or ferns or something ornamental. The 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


109 


ordinary cruet stands are not admissible, 
but small novelties in china, silver or glass 
for the purpose of holding the three or 
four common seasonings may be found in 
some inconspicuous position, and silver 
sugar bowls newly filled, likewise. On 
each side of the center piece set one de¬ 
corated dish or bowl of salad, one decorated 
dish of meat, and a small pyramid of neatly 
shaped sandwiches piled upon a hand¬ 
somely folded napkin. The two salads 
upon each table to be of different kinds, 
the two dishes of decorated meats different, 
the sandwiches different. 

Besides these there must be plates of 
bread or beaten biscuits, olives, pickles 
or cress. The waiter in attendance at each 
table observes and when the time to re¬ 
move the dishes has arrived he immedi¬ 
ately replaces the empty meat dishes with 
ornamented baskets of assorted cakes and 
bon-bons and choice fruit, which he has 
already brought in upon his large tray and 
kept upon his sideboard or stand-table; he 
then changes the plates and at once pro¬ 
ceeds to bring in the ices and jellies, 
moulded and turned out upon a dish raised 
in the middle and covered with a fancy 
folded napkin (or dish inverted in a larger 
dish and covered with the napkin), and 
lastly, brings in the coffee in small cups, 
an individual silver pitcher of cream along 
with each cup. 

WHAT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE IN COST 
OF SUPPERS. 

Referring to the foregoing as a sample, 
I will offer a little information now to the 
committees who come proposing “a nice 
p’easant social hop, you know, and a little 
plain refreshments—we don’t want much, 
but want it decently served, rather elegant, 
you know, but nothing costly—we have 
been thinking we ought to have a couple 
of salads, two or three kinds of cold meats 
or sandwiches or both, and a little cake and 
ice cream to finish off with—that won’t be 
much trouble, will it? Now, what will it 
cost us? How low can it be done?” 

“Well, sirs, I am sorry to say a little 


plain pleasure should cost so much, but 
that little supper will cost you two dollars 
a head, four dollars a couple.” 

“Oh, nonsense,” says committee impa¬ 
tiently, “the tickets to the ball including 
supper and everything are only five dollars 
a couple, and you would leave only one 
dollar for all the remaining expenses?” 

“Well, as you have not specified what 
the particular meats and salads and creams 
are to be, we will retrench a little and put 
it down at a dollar and a half a head, but 
there is no inducement in it at that price.” 

“ That is altogether too high yet,” says 
committee, “what, for a little cold meat, 
salad, ice cream and cake a dollar and a 
half apiece! We can go to your best hotel 
and have the best dinner they can get up 
any day for a dollar, and here you want 
for a plain—” 

“Wait, gentlemen, let me tell you how 
that is, you can have the supper for a dol¬ 
lar a head if you have it as plain and scanty 
as your words would describe it. It was 
your putting in the little words elegant and 
decently served that raised it to two dollars, 
for those expressions imply decoration, 
skilled labor, extra-paid over-time, trained 
waiters and plenty of them, good table 
w r are and plenty of it, and choice viands 
instead of cheap ones. There is no mean¬ 
ing in ‘a little ice cream and cake,’ for 
there must be enough in quantity or none, 
but plain cake and plain ice cream you can 
have cheap enough; if you run to varieties 
of molded ices, jellies and macaroons it 
takes up much time of skilled hands with 
several assistants, and thus the expense 
grows the same as with the mea's.” 

QUANTITIES AND QUALITIES. 

If you have the roast-cook to plain-roast 
40 chickens for part of the supper of the 
150 or 160 persons, who will be seated at 
the 20 eight-seat tables before mentioned, 
and when the chickens have become cold 
have some careful but ordinary helper to 
cut them up and place the pieces into 20 
d ; shes, one for each table; it is a plain and 
simple matter of small expense. But if, 






110 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


after the chickens become cold, the meat 
must be pulled from the bones and freed 
from skin, then be cut, not hashed, and 
added to a similar lot of celery, and there 
must be made by a skillful cook from two 
to four quarts of mayonaise dressing for it, 
consuming, before the salad is complete, 
about a gallon of fine olive oil, the chicken 
begins to be expensive. If then it is to be 
kept in a pan or large platter and dished 
out by spoonfuls it is still not very dear 
nor at all elegant. But if on the contrary, 
it is to be shaped in a suitable mould, 
turned out into 20 dishes, one for each 
table and all alike, and then spread over 
with the dressing skillfully, decorated with 
perhaps a dollars worth of capers, a similar 
value in olives, and as many quartered 
eggs, the 40 original roast chickens have 
become “elegant,” but also expensive, and 
that not so much owing to the materials as 
to the tediousnesss of all the operations, 
occupying for several hours one or two 
skilled hands and some assistants, and the 
little salad is but one-eighth or, likelier, 
one-twelfth of all the dishes to be made. 

The 40 plates of sandwiches which are 
part of the sample supper previously de¬ 
tailed—two plates to a table, the kinds be¬ 
ing different, may be equally plain, mere 
sliced bread and meat, or may consume 
hours in their preparation, as when made 
of grated tongue, minced ham, sardines, 
anchovy butter and veal or chopped 
pickled oysters and butter, and the various 
combinations, the bread having to be very 
thin and cut to symmetrical shapes all of 
one size and appearance. The most tedious 
are rolled sandwiches, each one having to 
be tied with a ribbon and the more trouble¬ 
some when the bread is of a contrary 
nature, too brittle to roll easily. 

To mould the charlottes and jellies, 
whether in 160 individual moulds or 
whether in 40 moulds—two for each table 
—is another time-consuming operation and 
requires room in the refrigerators to set 
them, which is often very hard to find; 
whereas if only to be “spooned out” they 
may be kept easily in a tub of ice-water and 


served cheaply'. To mould ice creams and 
turn them out successfully requires skilled 
workmen instead of helpers from first to 
last, and doubles or more than doubles 
their cost. 

These examples should serve to explain 
why the very same eatables can either be 
served at a profit for one dollar or ser.ved 
at a less profit for two dollars. I have no 
inclination to pursue the subject to the 
point of tediousness, but it remains to say 
that a cheap supper must be attended by 
but half as many waiters or even one third 
as many. All of the dishes, both meats 
and sweets, can be put upon the tables at 
once and the guests left almost entirely to 
help themselves, and instead of making 
two courses or “ services ” of it all the few 
waiters have to do is to begin to bring in 
the plain saucers of ice cream as soon as 
they can in order to get all served without 
any havyig to wait. For it is to be remem¬ 
bered always that a ball supper is only an 
incident of the ball, an interval in the danc¬ 
ing, which many people wish to make short 
and not lose much time over; it is not the 
principal object in the meeting and haste 
in serving it is always excusable. 

WHAT DECORATED MEAT DISHES CON¬ 
SIST OF. 

The 40 decorated cold meat dishes named 
for our sample ball supper may consist of 
anything in cold meats which is named in 
any of the bills of fare to be found in these 
pages; but, to be explicit, the plainly cut 
up roast chicken already instanced may 
be arranged in neat shape in the dishes 
and bordered with water-cress or garden 
cress, or, rather, the cress should be placed 
in the dish first and chicken upon it. The 
cress is a good relish to eat with the 
chicken, but if none to be had then border 
with parsley, and it becomes a decorated 
meat dish. To do better than that, the 
breasts only of the chickens should be cut 
in thin slices, without bones, trimmed a 
little to make them nearly of one shape 
and size, laid in order in the dish and bord 
ered with green and with sliced lemons. 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


Ill 


Next above that may be instanced breast 
of chicken (or turkey) decorated with jelly, 
the jelly chopped, put into a paper cornet 
and pressed out of the point in piping the 
same as in icing cakes, also, the jelly in 
any kind of fancy shapes placed with a 
knife. Next may be smoked tongue thinly 
sliced and decorated in the dit-hes or, com¬ 
moner, red corned tongue. There are such 
dishes as white veal cut into round pieces 
like silver dollars, two pieces together w T ith 
grated tongue between and a spot of jelly 
on top, cold oyster pies or patties or sim¬ 
ilar patties and vol-au-vents filled with 
finely cut game or chicken in a sauce, cold 
but rich and as firm as jelly. There are 
boned chickens and galantines of various 
things w r hich are in effect, ornamental and 
spicy-flavored rolls of boneless meat, very 
handy to slice and savory eating, and 
among the most expensive decorated cold 
meat dishes may be named boned quail 
and other birds in aspic jelly and stuffed 
or decorated with truffles and plovers’ 
eggs. It is the tediousness, trouble and 
elaborateness of these things which makes 
most of the difference between one-dollar 
and two-dollar suppers, and the addition of 
wine that makes the difference between 
five dollars and ten. 

WHAT THE ORNAMENTAL BASKETS OF 
CAKE CONTAIN. 

As far as the giving an inviting appear¬ 
ance to the tables is concerned the baskets 
or stands of cut cake have quite as good 
an effect as elaborately ornamented cakes, 
provided the cut cakes are made suitable 
for the purpose. Ordinary slices of cakes 
baked in deep moulds cannot be made 
much of, they are slices of cakes and noth¬ 
ing more. Bake cakes of different sorts in 
thin sheets, differently flavored and of dif¬ 
ferent tints and textures. Place some of 
the sheets two together with jam and jelly 
between, and leave some as they are. 
Take a bowl of fine powdered sugar and 
wet it either with wine, with bright-colored 
fruit syrups, with yolk of eggs for yellow, 
with chocolate syrup or with plain water; 


for each sheet of cake make this plain 
sugar coating a different flavor, make the 
wet sugar so thick that it will just barely 
settle down smooth and glossy when 
poured on the sheets of cake, and ice over 
the top of every sheet so prepared, except 
one for plain cake for those who prefer it. 
Besides the plain white, chocolate and yel¬ 
low, the fruit syrup will have made a red 
or pink sheet, if not, color one bowl of wet 
sugar. It needs no beating, this kind of 
icing, and will dry on the sheets of cake 
in an hour. To further increase the vari¬ 
ety, chop some of the greenest citron and 
sprinkle it over a white sheet while still 
wet, do the same for a pink sheet. Take 
some grated fresh cocoanut, clean and free 
from specks and strew it over one or two 
other sheets while still fresh-iced and wet, 
and scatter split almonds or walnuts over 
another. To make another kind mix grated 
or scraped almond paste with the sugar 
and spread that upon a sheet or between 
two sheets. Let the flavors be various; 
almond, pineapple, orange, vanilla, banana, 
lemon, anise, peppermint, peach. 

These broad sheets of cake having been 
prepared, the next thing ornamental is to 
cut them carefully and the special recom¬ 
mendation of this plain sugar-and-water 
icing is that it will not break, but can be 
<'ut into any fancy shape that Ihe cake will 
bear. Cut some of the sheets into crescents 
with a biscuit cutter, cut some in dia¬ 
monds, some in squares. Now bring 
alongside an assorted lot of macaroons, 
egg kisses, solid kisses, hollow kisses, or 
meringues k la ermine baked on boards; 
chocolate meringues, rose meringues, and 
stars and fingers, and covering the basket 
with a handsomely folded napkin you can 
slack up a pyramid of assorted cakes that 
will be more immediately attractive and 
give more satisfaction than an elaborate’y 
ornamented cake on which two to three 
days’ work has been put could do, and 
these assortments, fortunately, are not par¬ 
ticularly tedious to make, if we except the 
meringues in large quantities. In addition, 
or for a change from these, there are the 






112 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


jelly rolls, variously iced and colored and 
coated with almonds or fresh cocoanut 
before slicing; there are the various sponge 
drops and fingers, wafers and curled snaps 
and small cakes iced with chocolate and 
piped with white. 

But in the more elaborately set table the 
one basket of this sort will be matched on 
the other side by a whole cake with some 
light and fragile kind of ornamentation 
raised upon it, but this cake under present 
fashions must be cut, if only one section 
taken out, to invite immediate use. It 
must be of little weight, shallow in the 
mould, regularly iced with white-of-egg 
icing and beautifully bordered and flowered, 
besides the raised ornamentation, and 
forms the pastry cook’s offset and compet¬ 
itor to the meat cooks’ decorated galantine. 

■«% 

WHAT THE MOULDED ICES AND JELLIES 

ARE. 

It is a pity to have to say what they are, 
for the grand endeavor of caterers both 
public and private is to get something new 
in this line to beat somebody else. There 
is an effort to make new effects in the meat 
line, but that is more difficult; but when it 
comes to the sweets it is thought they are 
like toys, only passing fancies, and may be 
used to further any fantastic notions that 
igenious people may adopt. However, as 
this might seem a formidable task to have 
to invent a new device for every ball sup¬ 
per or other party, it is encouraging to 
remember that every old invention is new 
in any place where it has never been seen 
before, and the fancy form of ice which 
may have been served up to the queen of 
Sweden thirty years ago is still a charming 
novelty in almost any town or city where 
the caterers have not been too enterprising 
already. All the cook books and all the 
confectionavy books therefore will furnish 
notions for something beyond plain ice 
cream. There is the brick of ice cream in 
three colors to be sliced, that is the pana- 
chee or Neapolitan; the brick or mould of 
any kind having an outside coat of one 
color, the inside filled with a different kind; 


that is the bombe. The plain yellow ice 
cream may be pinched up between a pair of 
pewter moulds hinged together (or first 
dipped in water), and the ice cream drops 
out when they are opened in the likeness 
of a peeled banana. Another pair of moulds 
makes a pear or a peach, a little pink ice 
being placed in the mould to make the 
blush; another pair makes an egg, another 
a stalk of asparagus, with some green pista¬ 
chio nut ice in the end to make the head. 
These moulds, dipped in water after each 
form is made, will form the ice cream out 
of the large freezer as fast as they can be 
carried in by the waiters, if three or four 
hands be employed at it at once. 

To give an idea of what the caterers da 
in the city society circles, where nothing 
whatever is new and the party givers have 
a great repugnance to repeating what some 
society rival has already done, the follow¬ 
ing extracts from correspondents’ letters 
will prove useful. 

It has to be said further in praise of the 
small tables for party suppers that they 
admit of the adoption of all the new de¬ 
vices of private parties, it being only neces¬ 
sary to multiply them, one for each of 
twenty or forty tables—itself an achieve¬ 
ment worthy the ambition of any hotel 
manager or caterer; and, besides, the room 
full of small tables, and they fully occupied 
by people in full dress, makes just such a 
scene as only th^ finest appointed restau¬ 
rants in the world can equal during their 
best hours. But to our extracted para¬ 
graphs: 

“The desire of the fashionable world for 
some new things lead them into queer 
freaks now and then. One of the queerest, 
and to my mind the nastiest, is the latest 
form in which ices are served. Last year 
the favorite method of serving them was 
pretty and picturesque, consisting of little 
plated silver candlesticks. These contained 
a colored ice frozen in ihe form of a fancy 
candle. In the top of this was thrust a wax 
taper to be lit just before serving, and the 
whole crowned with a tiny silk shade. 
Whpn they were served with the tapers 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


lit the effect was extremely pretty, and, 
after admiring it, one pulled off the shade, 
extinguished the taper and proceeded, like 
the Esquimaux, to lunch upon candles. 

“But this year the very latest Parisian 
idea is to serve the ices in the shape of a 
family washtub, filled to the brim with 
meringue in imitation of soap suds, and in 
these white masses one is permitted to fish 
at random to bring up whatsoever piece of 
the family wash fate or luck assigns one. 
To some fell a stocking in pink ice, an¬ 
other gets a cuff or a collar, or a square 
that is supposed to represent a handker¬ 
chief. The whole idea is revolting, and, 
strange to say, has been very popular. 
Much more charming were the ices at a 
luncheon given by the Misses Furniss the 
other day to thirty young women, where, 
it being a “ hen party,” the ices appeared 
in the shape of a big motherly hen sitting 
in a nest of spun sugar surrounded by eggs 
of vari-colored ices. 

“The most novel dinner device of which 
I have heard recently was a mould of wine 
jelly in the midst of which was set an elec¬ 
tric light. The dish had to be arranged 
on the table beforehand, but it was con¬ 
cealed by a big silver cover, which was in 
turn hidden by flowers so as to form a centre 
piece to the table. When the cover was 
removed and the jelly, with its cluster of 
red and golden and purple fires, was dis¬ 
closed, the effect was quite tremendous. 
One lady, it is true, asked her escort if he 
didn’t suppose the jelly would taste elec¬ 
trical, and another in eating it declared she 
felt as if she were swallowing a Leyden jar; 
but the device was really very pretty, as 
well as novel and striking.” 



And here is a pretty fancy, which words 
would be insufficient to describe, orange 


US 


peel baskets filled with jelly. One such 
dish for each of our 20 tables would be 
about right. There are eight of them, just 
enough to go around. 

SETTING LONG TABLES. 

These small tables may be placed end to 
end to make two long tables down the hall, 
but in locating them it is necessary to 
ascertain by actual trial whether after plac¬ 
ing the two rows of chairs there will be 
room between them for the waiters to pass 
along freely, if not some other form of ar¬ 
rangement may be necessary, as some¬ 
times there is a long table and another 
across the end in the form of a T. And 
to save waiters and make expeditious ser¬ 
vice in such a hall, there are often side 
stands or tables set with some of the dishes 
or having the ice cream behind them as 
behind a counter, all so near the main 
tables that the work of handing over is, 
but very slight. 

The long tables are the more imposing, 
and are always to be preferred when 
speech-making is to follow the supper or 
dinner, for the obvious reason that the 
company already faces the speaker either 
from the right or left without moving the 
chairs. 

The tables are set according to the occa¬ 
sion ; for a grand banquet they are deco¬ 
rated with tall designs in flowers, which it 
is the florists’ special business to furnish, 
and at times with statuettes, if possible 
emblematical of the cause of the gather¬ 
ing, and at such times great use is found, 
for the confectioners’ images modelled in 
sugar, and significant designs even in pyra¬ 
mids of meat. For the less formal ball* 
supper, the tables being decorated with 
flowers and foliage according to the chang¬ 
ing fashions, which may call for loosely 
trailing vines, mats of moss and scattered 
roses or violets this year and tall vases of 
flowers only next year, may still be much 
enriched by small stands of decorated 
meats, baskets of cake and ornamented 
cakes, precisely as for the small tables al¬ 
ready described in detail. It is only re- 











114 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


quired that these stands of handsomely 
prepared eatables shall be of but a secon¬ 
dary prominence, not so large or so nu¬ 
merous as to make the tables look like a 

\ 

candy stand at a fair. They are to be to a 
well set table what statuary is in a grove, 
or like bunches of ready-ripe fruit in a late 
•orchard. 

One waiter to every ten chairs is the re* 
quirement for this style of table, and if an 
oyster supper, or partly hot and partly cold 
meal, as the people all come in at once and 
expect instant service, the oysters should 
be placed at each place at the minute be¬ 
fore the doors are thrown open, and. the 
bulk of the supper being already on the 
table the waiters have little to do except 
pass the dishes within reach until the time 
comes for the ices and sweets. 

WHERE THEY DANCE IN THE DINING 
ROOM. 

That is all very fine and easy of accomp¬ 
lishment where there is a ball room as well 
as a dining room and where the setting of 
the tables and furnishing them with new 
and startling effects may begin three or 
four hours or even a day before the ban- 
♦quet, but where, as in thousands of hotels, 
there is but the one room large enough a 
different line of management has to be 
pursued. 

THE STAND-UP SUPPER. 

It is not to be inferred that these follow¬ 
ing described ways of serving suppers are 
any less the ways of the haut-ton , are any 
less fashionable and proper than the regu¬ 
lar set table because they are specially re¬ 
ferred to the places of limited accommoda¬ 
tions, they are simply less troublesome, 
stiff and formal, and their very informality 
causes these methods to be chosen in places 
where the facilities are as ample for any 
■other method. The stand up supper is 
credited to the inventive genius, perhaps 
we might say to the leader-like boldness, 
of Ude, the celebrated cook or maitre 
d’hotel to one of the later French kings, 
Louis XVI, perhaps, and who flourished 


about a century ago. It was the stand-up 
supper idea which first made him talked 
about in every fashionable gathering, for 
there was a touch of philanthropy about it 
on his part, and the court beauties praised 
him for his sympathy with their dilemma 
—they could not sit down and were doomed 
to see the most magnificent feasts spread 
out of which they could not enjoy a mor¬ 
sel. The peculiar fashions in dress at that 
time caused the trouble. A lady fashion¬ 
ably attired for a ball could not sit in a 
chair without ruining her dress, and most 
of them in consequence made martyrs of 
themselves by not tasting snpper, prefer- 
ing to stay so crinolined, starched and 
frilled till the close of the festival rather 
than eat at the sacrifice of their toilettes. 
Ude said, when he was catering for these 
brillant court festivities, that as fashion 
could not come to the supper, the supper 
should come to fashion, and he set his 
tables and spread his feasts without having 
a chair in the room. He filled the dishes 
with small-cut dainties, placed them on 
raised sideboards in front of great mirrors 
and placed at each place nothing to eat 
with but a fork, and, naturally, for this 
accommodating change of custom the 
brilliant beauties were grateful and the 
stand-up supper was thereafter the proper 
thing throughout the fashionable world. 
Ude and the fashion makers of that time 
“builded wiser than they knew,” for the re¬ 
sort to the stand-up method has helped out 
unnumbered thousands of caterers as noth¬ 
ing else would. A man has a large enter¬ 
tainment to serve; he can secure a hall or 
some place that will answer for one, but if 
is unfurnished; he can make impromptu 
tables of planks upon trestles, can cover 
them if need be with the finest damask 
tablecloths and then his roughly made 
tables may serve the temporary purpose as 
well as if they were mahogany and marble, 
but it may be very difficult to procure 
chairs and rough boards for seats will not 
do. Or it may be the supper is calculated 
down to the lowest degree of cheapness; 
to procure chairs for so many will neces- 











THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


115 


sitate the employment of wagons and 
hands to bring and carry back and would 
greatly increase the cost of the entertain¬ 
ment. In such cases the stand-up supper 
is resorted to. But more frequently it is 
adopted because of the scarcity of room. 
Even while the people are dancing one 
side or one end of the hall can be taken 
possession of by the caterer, steward or 
headwaiter and long tables can be set. It 
is better in such cases if there can be a 
screen to temporarily part off that part of 
the room; it may be even worth while to 
have such a screen made for the purpose. 
Then the table or tables are set almost the 
same as for dinner, but with the plates 
nearer together, with as many plates and 
forks as there are guests. It is an object 
to do almost entirely without waiters, but 
place the decorated dishes of meats—every¬ 
thing ready sliced—the salads with a spoon 
in each dish, the small pastries, all of indi¬ 
vidual size and everything else, except ice 
cream and coffee, in numerous small dishes 
quite near together so that there will be no 
need of waiters, but every gentleman can 
reach a portion of everything for any lady, 
and not see something different or better 
further dowrn the table—that is to say: the 
tables should be set exactly alike from one 
end to the other with a portion of every 
kind in everybody’s reach. 

But here is a grand caution to be ob¬ 
served. The ice cream and coffee have 
still to be brought in and the people will 
be so closely packed together at the tables 
these trays cannot be carried in behind 
them without risk of the direst accidents 
to the ball dresses, besides the awkward¬ 
ness of everybody having to turn around 
and step aside to admit the service. Nothing 
is more frequent than lo see these ill-con¬ 
sidered arrangements put into operation 
during the season of public entertainments, 
the difficulty seeming never to be thought 
of until it is experienced. The ways to 
avoid it and admit of a little waiter-service 
all through the supper is to set double 
tables; that is two tables or even broad 
boards nearly together, but with just room 


enough for a waiter or two to pass down 
between them and hand the cups of coffee 
over, the guests occupying only the out¬ 
side of the two long tables. The most con¬ 
venient of all is to set the tables in horse¬ 
shoe fashion or a hollow square, the 
servers being inside, but where there is 
not room for them the tables may be ranged 
along^the wall, with only just room enough 
between the wall and tables for waiters to 
pass along. 

THE BAZAAR SUPPER. 

This is the prettiest form of stand-up 
supper—it might almost be termed the 
walk-around supper. It admits of the 
supper being spread in several smaller 
rooms where there is but the one large 
enough for dancing, and tables may even 
be set in hallways and verandas. It is like 
the going from one table to another for 
different viands at the festivals and bazaars 
which the ladies conduct in every town 
during the season. In preparing for a 
large number, however, it is necessary to 
have a number of tables set exclusively 
with meat dishes—the cut meats, salads, 
sandwiches, etc., and other tables beyond 
containing only sweets—the berries and 
cream, cakes, coffee, confectionery, etc. 
Some evening entertainments of many 
descriptions besides balls and hops are very 
successfully managed on this plan, where 
people stroll by twos to the tables and eat 
standing though the simultaneous seating 
of so many would be quite impracticable. 

THE HANDED SUPPER. 

It is not to be denied, however, that the 
stand-up supper is but the meal of expedi¬ 
ency; not the most comfortable for the 
participants, but only the best that can be 
done under certain circumstances. It may 
well be supposed that the very court 
ladies, for whose benefit it was first insti¬ 
tuted, would have preferred to be seated if 
they could. There is another motive for 
the stand-up repast which has not been 
mentioned, that is the desire to cut the 
supper short, for the people who would sit 
perhaps an hour in leisurely enjoyment at 
a regular set table will get through a 







116 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


stand-up in fifteen minutes, a very import¬ 
ant consideration where many speeches 
have to be made in another hall, or a num¬ 
ber of figures of a german gone through 
before daylight comes. 

The real social hop supper is the handed- 
around one, the best known way and most 
generally adopted in hotels, and next to 
the regular set table the pleasantest. # This 
can be managed in two ways, of which the 
plainest is to serve everything on trays 
brought from the kitchen or pantry, the 
guests remaining seated in the ball room. 
If it is the hotel dining-room the tables 
have been carried out, and all else, but the 
chairs remain ranged around the walls. 
The man who “calls off” the dances an¬ 
nounces that after the next dance refresh¬ 
ments will be handed around by the wait¬ 
ers and ladies and gentlemen are requested 
to keep their seats where they are. When 
the time arrives waiters come in and hand 
a napkin to each of the guests, who spread 
it on their lap, and other waiters follow 
with trays filled with small plates, filled as 
at private receptions, with portions of per¬ 
haps three or four different kinds; for 
example: a spoonful of shrimp or lobster 
salad, a slice of breast of turkey, one or 
two beaten biscuits, three or four pitted 
olives, and a fork; or a portion of chicken 
‘ salad, a grated tongue sandwich, a slice of 
boned turkey with currant jelly, a buttered 
biscuit and a pickle or two. As soon as 
all are served with these the waiters begin 
to bring in trays of ice cream and cake— 
the necessity if condensation requiring the 
saucer of ice cream or punch-glass of sher¬ 
bet to be placed on the same plate with the 
two or three pieces of cake and a spoon— 
and pass around to whomsoever mav be 
ready first, taking up the meat plates and 
replacing witli the sweets. It does not 
work well, unless the waiters are well 
accustomed to it and watchful, to let one 
go along and take up the meat plates and 
another follow with the sweets, as some 
are sure to be missed altogether. Each 
waiter should have but a small load easily 
handled and make the change complete as 


he goes along. After that coffee is offered 
in the same way, while lemonade or glasses 
of water should be passed about the room 
freely by other waiters during the whole 
time of supper, until all hands are required 
to gather up the plates and napkins at the 
finish. 

THE ORNAMENTAL HANDED SUPPER. 

The last described being the plainest and 
easiest, the portions on the plates all pre¬ 
pared outside and no whole dishes having 
to be shown, is the sort af supper which 
hotel-keepers can best afford to give in a 
complimentary way to their guests, as they 
are so often obliged to do, and is for many 
reasons the least troublesome and least 
expensive. Here is another way of doing 
nearly the same thing, which perhaps may 
be claimed to be the best of all (but only 
for genteel peop'e who can be depended 
on to behave well) as it gives a chance for 
display and leaves the most lasting impres¬ 
sion upon the visitors. It is to bring a 
table or two or three, of the ordinary small 
size, ready set with some tall ornamental 
dishes or pyramids into the dining room 
when the dancing ceases and serve the 
supper to the people, all seated as in the 
other instance, from these tables instead of 
from the outside. In this service there is 
a little less of the “keep-your-seat” sort of 
restraint than by the other way. The 
tables hold something to be looked at and it 
follows that the people walk around them 
to see what there is, and, later on the 
gentlemen have a chance to assist the ser¬ 
vice in a way which they generally are very 
glad to do by helping the ladies to some 
coveted dainty from the tables or replen¬ 
ishing a plate before the waiter’s attention 
can be secured. Nevertheless, it is a nap¬ 
kin supper like the last, and these serviettes 
are to be passed around (only to those who 
are found seated), and then plates- with 
portions of three or four dishes sent to 
them from the tables as fast as they can 
be filled and distributed. 

It is an object to make the table or tables 
hold all that is required for the supper. 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


117 


They may be set while the dance is going 
on, in the kitchen or carving room or any 
handy olace and when the time comes 
carried in by a sufficient number of hands 
through the doors into the dining room 
without disarranging anything. In the 
center may be a tali piece of the pastry 
cook’s best work; a number of dishes of 
salad all decorated should be placed at 
intervals along with all other such dishes 
as have been suggested already for the 
supper with small set tabl s, the grand 
advantage of this style being that one 
elaborately ornamented dish of a kind is 
sufficient for all the company to see, while 
the other way calls for one such for every 
separate table. After the meats have heen 
served the dishes may be removed and the 
moulded ices or plain ice cream and wine 
jellies, charlotte russe, orange baskets, me¬ 
ringues, or whatever could not be crowded 
on the tables at the first setting may be 
brought in their places and served from 


the table as they were. It is quite essential 
in setting these show tables to allow room 
enough for piles of small plates, glass cake 
plates, glass jelly saucers, punch cups, 
forks, spoons, and a few knives besides the 
crockery on a side table for the waiters’ 
use, in order that the guests may have 
facilities for helping themselves and each 
other when the service is slow. All orna¬ 
mental cakes for such a supper should 
have a small section already cut out and a 
knife placed ready, to show that they are 
for use and not for ornament only, and 
then the quantities needed for the supper 
may be calculated according to rules al¬ 
ready given so closely that these decorated 
affairs will have to be cut up in order to 
make enough—however, w r hen there are 
not so many people present as provision 
was made for these larger pieces, like de¬ 
corated hams, iced cakes and galantines 
cased in jelly, are the dishes best worth re¬ 
serving. 



A CHARTREUSE OF VEGETABLES. 


A TURBAN OF FILLETS OF FISH. 
























































>- 

. 






* 


x • . : >■ 















































































































THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 


:e>_a:r,t tT rue, id. 


COMPRISING 



A GUIDE TO PARTY CATERING. 


WEDDING BREAKFASTS, FANTASIES OF PARTY GIVERS, 

Model Small Menus and Noteworthy Suppers, 

» 

WITH PRICES CHARGED. 

ALSO, 

CA TERING ON A GRAND SCALE 


ORIGINAL AND SELECTED EXAMPLES OF 


MAMMOTH CATERING OPERATIONS, SHOWING THE SYSTEMS 
FOLLOWED BY THE LARGEST CATERING ESTAB¬ 
LISHMENTS IN THE WORLD. 


ALSO, A DISQUISITION ON 

HEAD WAITERS AND THEIR TROOPS. 


BY 

JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 


CHICAGO. 

1889. 








. 


. 

' 

- 











■ 








. 


1 














* 

















































CATERING FOR PRIVATE PARTIES. 


Large catering establishments are like 


large hotels, few in number, of slow 
growth, costly to rear, expensive to carry 
on, difficult to buy or succeed to, but still 
there is small work for small caterers in 
tens of thousands of places, and real de¬ 
mand for skill and talent in that line the 
same as for excellent cooks and waiters in 
hotels. It is, of course, a peculiar line of 
work taking it all together for which only 
a few are adapted; it is not sufficient to be 
a good cook, there must be a special 
knowledge of the dishes most suitable for 
party suppers and dinners and of what is 
fashionable, which may entirely exclude 
the things which a cook may beat the 
world at for hotel dinners, and, in addition, 
there must be a knowledge of table setting 
and waiter work and various matters of 
propriety. The beginnings of the party 
catering trade are, however, simple enough. 

A man keeps a small restaurant or bakery 
and confectioner}', or all combined, and is 
applied to by some simple-minded lady 
who asks him how much he will charge 
her to make and bake a cake for her party 
if she furnishes the materials, or what he 
will charge to roast her turkey if she sends 
it already prepared for cooking and sends 
butter to baste it with, and how much 
butter will it take? The man gives a smil¬ 
ing and courteous answer, whether he ac¬ 
cepts such a contract or not, and the next 
may be a lady who has heard talk of some 
fine thing, perhaps a fillet of beef, larded, 
being served at a private party somewhere 
and asks if he can furnish such a dish for 
her coming entertainment, is probably 
pleased and proud to find that he can and 
may end by giving him an extensive order 
and his first opportunity to show whether 
he is capable of doing the society party 

Work of the town. A man who is a cook 

( 125 ) 


only finds one who is a head waiter or 


competent to be one; a waiter or butler 
starting in such a business finds an accom¬ 
plished cook, and the two together make 
it go. Cooking and service must go to¬ 
gether. 

In tens of thousands of cases where 
parties are given, the right combination is 
not available. Society entertains every¬ 
where; the ladies carry on the service part 
and only call on the cooks. There are 
numbers of cooks in every city of medium 
size and in some large towns, who never 
take regular employment, but hold them¬ 
selves for all such odd jobs of cooking for 
parties, in private houses, and sometimes 
take little contracts, hire waiters, furnish 
everything and carry an affair through 
themselves. For cooking by the day they 
get good wages, ranging from five to ten 
dollars a day or for the day and part of the 
night taken up in serving the feast, and for 
some elaborate spreads the work of pre¬ 
paration may keep them employed for a 
week, and one who gains a reputation for 
special skill and reliability may be em¬ 
ployed every day during the social season; 
may have more offers of employment than 
he can accept; may secure an advanced 
price for his services, but as in all other 
lines “it is the longest pole that knocks 
the persim i on,” the man must excel in 
something or he will never be more than 
a laborer. There is never a private enter¬ 
tainment but the lady at the head of it 
would, if she could, have something to beat 
some other party; would like to have some¬ 
thing which her friendly rivals have never 
had, particularly anything mentioned in 
the fashion papers or fashion correspond¬ 
ence, as in vogue somewhere, but which 
no lady of her round of acquaintances has 
yet been able to secure. Then the caterer 





126 


THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 


of whatever grade who can furnish the 
most novelties comes to the top. This is 
really a very serious phase of the whole 
society catering business from its smallest 
stage, where some new cook with a bunch 
of novelties can come and take the bread 
out of the mouths of the old residents, to 
the largest establishment, which is obliged 
to change from china to silverware, from 
silver to glass, from flowers in general to 
flowers of one or two rare sorts, from banks 
of moss and trailing vines on the table to 
tall vases only, all because of the changes 
of the fashions, and is bound to be on the 
watch to import every new idea and be 
ready to supply the newest favorite dish, as 
otherwise the class of patrons who are able 
to make high-class catering most profitable 
to the caterer will send away and import 
for themselves what they cannot procure 
at home. Small catering businesses are 
often offered for sale like any other busi¬ 
ness, and a man well posted in the require¬ 
ments, at such times may find his oppor¬ 
tunity to step in and build up an important 
and profitable trade where another had 
been “poking along” or failed entirely. 

LADY CATERERS. 

Many ladies are engaged in catering for 
private parties; they may be found in every 
town and city. They usually carry on 
some other small shop business or a ladies’ 
restaurant for down town shoppers; and do 
little or none of the work themselves, but 
are acquainted with the people who give 
parties and with the requirements of sev¬ 
eral kinds of entertainments, and know all 
the available hands for such employment, 
the cooks, waiters, wagoners, house-clean¬ 
ers, and where they can be found, also 
where silver and other table ware can be 
had for hire, and prove themselves friends 
in need to many who find themselves 
obliged to entertain, yet lack the experi¬ 
ence necessary, and these caterers make a 
good income solely by employing others. 
The following, clipped from a society pa¬ 
per, shows still another department for 
ladies, much like the place occupied by the 


steward of a hotel. This one indeed is the 
manageress, as they are called in England, 
for the time being. A man caterer called 
in and given entire charge of a reception 
or other party indeed does all that this lady 
does, if it is required of him, sending the 
proper hands to look after the silver, etc., 
making out the menu and getting it printed 
and ordering or furnishing everything for 
a round sum; still the lady fills a different 
position in standing in place of the lady of 
the house herself and being the employer 
of the caterer and florist, perhaps, besides. 

“A New York lady, who had made her 
father’s dinners famous by their elegance 
and perfection, was left penniless. She 
knew that many ladies refrain from dinner 
giving because they feel unequal to the 
ordeal, but are quite willing to pay any 
one who can relieve them of the responsi¬ 
bility and worry. An old friend of social 
position to whom she unfolded her plan of 
dinner superintendence agreed at once to 
employ her, and influenced her wealthy 
friends to try the novel plan. It worked 
admirably, and she probably earns more 
than any lady teacher in the city. Her 
plan is to go to the dinner giver as soon as 
the invitations are sent out, and discuss 
the courses, etc. She knows just what is 
in season, and does the marketing if the 
lady wishes. She finds out what sum the 
hostess is willing to expend for flowers, 
menus, etc., nnd buys them for her, taking 
great pains to get novel and artistic de¬ 
signs. The afternoon of the dinner she 
sees that the table is properly laid, inspects 
the polish of the silver and the lustre of 
the glass, makes sure that the changes of 
plates, etc., are ready on the sideboard, at¬ 
tends to the finger-bowls, and arranges the 
shades on the candles to secure that soft 
radience that ladies find so becoming. She 
foresees every probable emergency and 
provides for all contingencies that may 
arise.” 

MORE RULES FOR STEWARDS AND 
CATERERS. 

Scarcely ever two party affairs are ex¬ 
actly alike and set patterns seldom fit the 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


127 


case, but the individual comes in and exer¬ 
cises his own skill and knowledge within 
certain bounds of propriety and good taste. 
Some rules have been laid down in a 
former page, by which a man may take a 
pencil and paper and approximate very 
closely the amount of provisions which 
will be necessary to prepare for any given 
number of people, and how much it will 
cost him can be determined by finding the 
prices prevailing in his markets. Then 
questions are raised of what is right and 
proper, as, for example, “should a soup be 
served at a wedding breakfast?” (which is 
really an elaborate luncheon and not the 
breakfast ordinarily understood) or “ what 
dishes should be served at such and such a 
high-class entertainment?” and so forth, 
and as a guide in such matters likewise the 
following rules are offered: 

1. To determine whether this thing or 
that is proper, examine the many menus of 
all sorts of fashionable entertainments; 
which are to be found abundant in these 
pages and are printed for the very purpose 
of reference. 

2. To know what to give and what to 
charge for a high-priced spread, look over 
the large bills of fare with prices attached 
of the high-class restaurants, likewise to be 
found in these pages, select from among 
their dishes and take the prices for a guide 
what to charge, remembering possibly, if 
the occassion requires concessions, that 
those restaurant dishes are generally 
enough for two persons, if not more. It 
is claimed for the Hotel Richelieu of Chi¬ 
cago that each dish served for an individual 
order is sufficient for three or four. In 
some establishments they never divide any 
ordinary sized fish—nothing except salmon 
or halibut to cut into steaks—the rule is to 
buy fish of a suitable size, two or three 
pounds each, and serve nothing but a 
whole one to each customer. At high- 
priced suppers generally the same rule 
obtains, each one of the guests has a one- 
pound or two-pound trout or pompano or 
bass set before him to take what he 
pleases from, and when that is removed a 


whole broiled teal or large portion of any 
other larger fowl, and so on through. 
Cheaper dinners and suppers in courses 
have divided portions in large dishes passed 
along the table. 

3. When deciding what viands to order 
select the least common for the locality. 
Grouse in Kansas has been so common 
that the farmers’ hands refused to be fed 
upon it, demanding other meat; people in 
the Rocky Mountain towms reject antelope 
and think little of black-tail deer because 
they have a surfeit of them, and still these 
all are prime delicacies in New York. 
Something far-fetched, unusual, novel 
should be introduced when possible, but 
with judgment not to exclude standard 
favorites which will be expected as well. 

4. To know what special sorts of food 
to provide for entertainments given by 
various nationalities or people from distant 
sections, look over the menus of similar 
feasts given in other places by competent 
parties, generally by caterers of the same 
nationality, which likewise may be found 
in these pages, and refer besides to remarks 
on such national cookery also discussed in 
other pages under the proper letter. 

5. To excel as a caterer, keep well 
posted on what is going on by reading 
fashion correspondents’ letters in the pa¬ 
pers, and the hotel and catering journals. 
Most of the “new wrinkles” may be triv¬ 
ial in the extreme, yet one never knows 
which of them will “catch on” and turn 
out to be a fashionable craze. Society 
entertainments were supported during one 
season at least almost entirely on “ cheese 
straws,” and another season or tw r o on 
“salted almonds.” The whole catering 
world is a company of inventors constantly 
seeking for some new thing, and he who 
cannot invent for himself may learn from 
those who can, if he cares to watch. 

6. Look over the dictionary of dishes 
and learn in how many various ways the 
same edibles may be served, and find sug¬ 
gestions and new wrinkles applicable to 
every conceivable occasion. 





128 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


A GUIDE TO PARTY CATERING. 

ANNIVERSARY BALL SUPPER FOR 200. 

The committee wanted it “fine” for $5 
per couple including ball. One hundred 
couples expected. It was a good-sized 
town (called a city), with two or three 
hotels, but without a regular caterer in 
business. Committee applied to a hotel 
cJipf, who undertook the supper for a fixed 
sum for the labor only, the committee to 
supply everything according to written 
requisition. Committee secured the town 
hall for dancing and a large vacant store 
underneath for the supper room, with large 
room at the back for kitchen, borrowed or 
hired the various utensils found in a neigh¬ 
boring restaurant, which was then closed 
awaiting a purchaser, and borrowed 400 
pieces of silver from a summer hotel, then 
closed. Glasses, plates, etc., obtained from 
local stores. Two long tables were set and 
nearly everything was set upon them. 
Chairs were obtained from various places, 
principally from the hall or “opera house.” 
A bill of fare was printed, not for any use 
to order from, everything but oysters and 
ice cream being in sight on the tables, but 
from motives of display. This was the 
supper provided: 

MENU. 

Raw Oysters. 

Celery. Pickles. Cold Slaw Olives. 

Fried Oysters. Stewed Oysters. 


Cold Wild Turkey. Cold Roast Chicken. 

Cranberry Jelly. 


Chicken Salad. Shrimps, with Lettuce. 
Mayonaise of Lobster. Hollandaise Salad. 


Truffled Galantine in Aspic. 

Decorated Ham. Decorated Buffalo Tongues. 


Newport Tartlets. Curacoa Bavarian. 

L mon Butter Tartlets. 

Wine and Fruit Jellies. 

Meringue Cakes. Glazed Cream Puffs. 
Chocolate Layer Cake. 

Candies. Delmonico Ice Cream. Lemonade. 

Oranges. Apples. Nuts. Raisins. 
Cheese. Crackers. French Coffee. 

PROVISIONS AND MATERIALS USED. 

Oysters (bulk) 10 gallons, of which 3 
gallons were used raw, 3 gallons stewed, 4 
gallons fried. 

Turkeys, 80 pounds. 


Chickens, 50 pounds. That was the 
quantity actually used, though the com¬ 
mittee became excited as preparations went 
on and thought there would not be half 
enough, therefore had more prepared 
which was left over at last. Had and used 

3 turkeys boned, stuffed with meat of 6 of 
the chickens; 4 chickens (fowls) made 
enough salad. Remainder, 5 turkeys and 

4 chickens were sliced for cold roast, and 
all eaten. 

Ham, one, weighed 11 pounds, but little 
used. 

Smoked tongues, 4. Purported to be 
buffalo tongues from Montana. Used 
three sliced and decorated, other one in 
galantine stuffing. 

Truffles, one $1.50 can. All utilized for 
outside decoration. 

Shrimps, 12 cans, all used. 

Lettuce, 2 dozen heads, all used. 

Lobsters, 2 cans. Not much needed. 
More for display of kinds in menu than for 
real use. 

Potatoes, for hollandaise salad, used 
about 8 pounds. 

Celery, 6 dozen heads, just right as or¬ 
dered ; used best part in celery glasses on 
table, remainder in salads. 

Cabbage, 2 heads, about 8 pounds, used 
most for slaw with oysters. 

Beets, used about 3 pounds in decorating 
salads. 

Cracker-meal, for breading oysters, used 
12 pounds. 

Lard, for frying oysters and for short¬ 
ening in biscuits and pastry, used 20 
pounds—oysters frying is most destructive 
of lard, as it soon becomes too dark and 
thick with cracker dust for further use. 

Butter, used for all cooking purposes 
(none on table), 10 pounds. 

Flour, used 30 pounds. 

Baking powder, used 1 pound. 

Sugar, for all purposes, including lemo¬ 
nade, used 30 pounds. 

Milk, used for oyster stews and other 
purposes, 12 gallons. 

Cream, for coffee and other purposes, 
used 3 gallons. 











THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


129 


Chocolate, for cakes and puffs, y 2 pound. 

Currant jelly, for tartlets, i pound. 

Gelatine, for wine jelly, orange jelly, etc., 
and for aspic, used io packages or about i 
pound. 

Sherry, for jellies, i quart. 

Curacoa, for Bavarian cream, very small 
quantity, used i pint. 

Extracts, used 4 ounces. 

Eggs, 15 dozens actually ordered, needed 
and used (but, as in case of turkeys, com¬ 
mittee anticipating a greater crowd, caused 
the using of 10 doz. more, product left 
over and not counted herein). 

Of the 14 items above was made and all 
eaten: Cream Puffs, 150; Biscuits, 200; 
Puff Paste Tartlets, 100; Ice Cream, 6 
gallons; Wine Jelly, 8 quarts; Aspic Jelly, 
for meat decoration, 2 quarts; cake, about 
24 pounds, needed on table for show, but 
half eaten, as all took puffs and pastries. 

Besides these were used: 

Bread, 5 loaves—nearly all preferred the 
beaten biscuits. 

White Wax, for ornamental purposes, 
$1 worth, together with some mutton fat. 

Paper, 2 kinds, 2 quires. 

Olive Oil, 2 quarts. 

Olives, 2 bottles. 

Lemons, all purposes, used 6 doz. 

Pickles, 2 quarts. 

Coal for range, used 500 pounds. 

Salt, for freezing, etc., 25 pounds. 

Ice, nominal, winter, plenty free. 

Coffee, used 8 pounds Java—ought to 
have had 10 pounds—great run on coffee 
and nothing large enough to make it in. 

It would not serve any useful purpose 
to say what the supper above detailed cost. 
The amounts and quantities will be found 
trustworthy as a guide for similar occur¬ 
ences ; the probable cost in any case can be 
ascertained by reference to prices in the 
local markets. The number at the tables, 
known by the number of chairs, was quite 
200 including the promoters of the affair, 
committees and compLmentaries, but mu¬ 
sicians and others at second table were so 
many additional for which the same spread 
was sufficient. 


The waiters were paid by the committee, 
it being in a country town they found 
waiters enough to volunteer for the occa¬ 
sion for little or nothing; if paid, the 15 or 
20 waiters and helpers would have cost 
$10 to $15. The kitchen work required 
assistants who were paid altogether $5.50, 
the skilled labor together with time lost in 
preliminary arrangements amounted to 5 
days and the night of the supper, besides. 

A YOUNG lady’s BIRTHDAY RECEPTION 
FOR 50. 

Had 2 small turkey galantines; one sliced 
on plates, other decorated in a mould of 
aspic on table and about half used. 

Chicken salad of 4 chickens and 1 doz. 
heads of celery and one quart of dressing, 
all used. 

Charlotte russe, had 50 individual size in 
ornamental white paper cases; cake portion 
made with a 3-pound sponge cake mixture, 
that is, with 3 pounds sugar, 2 doz. eggs 
and 2 % flour; filling with 3 quarts whipped 
cream stiffened with 1 package gelatine, 1 
pound sugar. 

Meringue shells filled with jelly; had 50 
pairs, size of ducks’ eggs, baked on boards, 
scooped out, filled like saucers in pairs, 
with 2 colors of jelly cut in cubes and 
mixed—had 3 quarts jelly, part maraschino, 
remainder port wine. 

White cakes and layer cakes decorated, 
on table. 

Bisque of preserved ginger ice cream; 
had 8 quarts. 

Lemonade. Biscuits. Candies. Ma¬ 
laga Grapes. 

Quantities about right; a little of each 
left over, but not more than was wanted. 

SNOW-BOUND DINNER. 

Dinner for about 200 railroad passengers 
snow-bound on a train in the far West; 
dinner given free by the railroad company 
at the next station reached. Made a west¬ 
ern hotel dinner, but greater paik ready set 
on two long tables. 

Cooked and used: 

Fresh meats, 100 pounds (raw weight). 

Ham, 20 pounds. 







130 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


Chickens, 40 pounds. 

Clams in baked chowder, 12 cans. 

Oysters in soup, 20 cans. 

Lobster in salad, 8 cans. 

Potat es, 75 pounds. 

Pies, 48. 

Tarts, various, 150. 

Cake, 28 pounds. 

Pudding, 4 quarts. 

Charlotte russe, 12 quarts, in 15 moulds 
on tables. 

Jelly, 13 quarts, in iS moulds on tables. 

Bread, and various vegetables, not 
counted. 

Coffee, about 15 gallons. 

CHURCH FESTIVAL. 

“To be as cheap as possible,” to faise 
money to pay the pastor. Committee fur¬ 
nished the raw material only; the hotel- 
keeper gave everything else, use of rooms, 
fire, lights, cooking and incidental labor. 

The raw material cost the church com¬ 
mittee about $15. Prices were higher then 
than now. Had about 100 persons to sup¬ 
per, which was made up of: 

Ham sandwiches, pounds, of which 
5 pounds was ham, net trimmed, which is 
equal to a 9-pound ham raw. 

Pressed corned beef, sliced on dishes, 
decorated, 4 pounds. 

Yeast-raised short biscuits, 100. 

Bread, 6 loaves, sliced. 

Fancy small pastries, showy, cheap, 100. 

Cream puffs, 120. 

Lemon jelly, 3 quarts. 

Macaroons and kisses, made of 3 pounds 
sugar, 1 pound almonds. 

Cakes, about 9 pounds. 

Coffee, used 4 pounds Java. 

Tea, used 4 ounces. 

Cream for coffee, 2 quarts. 

There was no ice cream. 

The cost of material was about 15 cents 
per head. About 12 pounds butter was 
used, some upon the table, rest in cakes, 
etc., and 95 pounds sugar, and a gallon of 
milk, some citron and lemons. 

CLUB RECEPTION. 

For 26 persons, both ladies and gentle¬ 
men, the material cost about $60, of which 


$20 was for terrapin. Flowers and florists 
services about $40; catering about $40; and 
with the hire of ten different sets and pat¬ 
terns of china and other incidentals the 
total cost to the giver of the party was 
something over $200, without the wines, 
or, making a round estimate to include 
wine, say $10 per plate. The caterer was 
instructed on various points and, among 
others, not to give them a clear soup— 
“ they were so tired of clear soups.” 

A table was handsomely set in the club 
drawing-room for this special occasion, not 
to disturb the regular daily arrangements 
of the club; a florist being employed to de¬ 
corate it with designs and bouquets and to 
festoon the chandeliers. Several tall de¬ 
corated dishes and ornamental cakes w T ere 
set on table amidst the green. 

First. Passed around pony glasses of 
whisky cocktail. 

Second. Cream of cauliflower soup— 
cauliflower (fiom a distance) and soup cost 
about $1.25. 

Third. Deviled oysters in shell, cost 
with garnishing about $2.50. 

Fourth. Celery, imported, $2.50. 

Fifth. Turkey stuffed with chestnuts, 1 
turkey $1 40, with vegetables, jelly and 
trimmings whole cost $3.75. 

Sixth. Brains sautds in butter, with 
vegetables, garnishing, etc., cost $4.35. 

Seventh. Terrapin with wine and gar- 
nishings, $21 40. 

Eighth. Curacoa punch, $ r.6o. 

Ninth. Roast quail, $4.30, bardes, chips, 
endive salad, garnish, etc., whole cost, 
$6.20. 

Tenth. Ornamental pieces (galantine of 
partridges flanked with larks in aspic), cost 
of material, $5.10. 

Eleventh. Harlequin ice cream and 
moulded jellies in ornamental borders filled 
with maraschino whipped cream, cost 
$3 60. 

Twelfth. Assorted fruit, $3 50. 

Thirteenth. Coffee, cream, incidentals, 
about 75 cents. 

Wines, etc., from the club cellars. 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


131 


COLD LUNCH FOR 300. 

Governor’s Guard and other military 
companies passing through. 

Prepared and used: 

1. Salted round of beef, bound around 
with twine, boiled, pressed while cooling; 
raw weight 50 pounds, weight when cooked 
37 pounds. All used. 

2. Bread, 48 bakers’ loaves. 

3. Cold ham, 2 hams, raw weight iS 
pounds; weight when cooked 12 pounds. 
All used. 

4. Ham sandwiches, 300; made of 2 
hams, raw weight 25 pounds, net cooked 
meat 18 pounds. 

5. Salad of 10 fowls and 6 doz. heads 
celery, some cabbage to mix in; about 20 
quarts of salad on 20 dishes. 

6. Tarts, puff paste with apple jam; 300 
all used. 

7. Butter on table, used 10 pounds. 

8. Cake, on table, 20 pounds; half left 
over. 

9. Ice cream, 6 gallons used. 

10. Fruit on table, apples, oranges, not 
counted. 

11. Coffee, 15 gallons; not much left 
over. 

12. Sugar on table, used about 12 lbs. 

13. Milk for coffee, mustard, sauces, 
etc., not counted. 

Had 30 waiters. 

PRIVATE RECEPTION. 

For 70, in May, at a family residence; 
parlor and dining room connected by slid¬ 
ing doors. Hostess provided material on 
written requisition; work done in the house. 
Florist called in, decora f ed dining room 
with a central design and festooned room 
and chandelier. Had on table six deco¬ 
rated dishes, of wh : ch two were cakes with 
sugar work and baskets about 20 inches 
high, set to flank the floral design in center; 
two were decorated salads at opposite 
corners of table; one was a border mould 
of jelly filled with whipped cream, the 
other rings of meringue baked separately, 
built up, decorated and inside filled with 
stiffened cream and chopped jelly. More 


of same kinds on dishes in the pantry 
outside, together with: 

1. Rolled sandwiches. 

2. Shaved smoked tongue. 

3. Cheese straws. 

4. Shrimp salad. 

5. Chicken salad. 

6. Claret cup. 

7. Assorted cakes. 

8. Mammoth strawberries with pow 
dered sugar. 

9. Ice cups or boinbes , of red raspberry 
water ice frozen in 6 doz. tumblers and 
filled with green pistachio ice cream. 

10. Vienna coffee in sma'l cups. 

Guests, being over 70 in a private house, 

sat around on sofas, chairs, settees, etc., 
informally, and stood around the dining 
room, and waiters carried plates from the 
pantry with portions to them. After first 
round gentlemen began and helped the 
ladies from the show dishes on table. 
Hostess made and served the coffee herself 
from a swinging silver urn in the dining 
room. 

Expenses without provisions: florist, $15; 
music, 3 pieces, $7; caterer, $25; 5 waiters, 
$5.50. Incidentals, extra hire, wagons, 
carriages, etc., not counted. 

CATERING EXPERIENCE OF AN ENGLISH 
MANAGER. 

“Many land owners give audit dinners 
(or rent day dinners) in hotels, when the 
tenant farmers come to pay their rent. 
These dinners are sometimes very cheap, 
still they are often attended by a large 
number of guests, and it requires some 
close calculation to render them profitable 
as well as successful. Served: 

DINNER FOR 6 AT 60 CENTS. ( 2 S. 6d.) 

Salmon and Parsley Sauce. 

Roast Leg of Mutton. 

Cauliflowers. Potatoes. 

Rhubarb Tart. Custard Puddings. 

Bread. Cheese. Butter. Salad. 

Wines or beer extra. (No coffee.) 

DINNER FOR 30 AT 65 CENTS. ( 2 S. 9 d.) 
Spring Soup. 

Turbot and Lobster Sauce. 

Boiled Fowls. Bacon. 

Roast Beef. Horseradish Sauce. 

Two Vegetables. 

Apple Tarts. Cream. 

Bread. Butter. Cheese. Salad. 

Wines or beer extra. 





132 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK, 


DINNER FOR 150 AT 65 CENTS. ( 2S. 9D.) 

Mock Turtle and Clear Soups. 

2 Ribs, 2 Sirloins Beef. 

1 Boiled Round of Beef. 

2 Roast, 2 Boiled Les/s Mutton. 

8 Veal and Ham Pies. 

50 Cauliflowers. 1 Sack Potatoes. 

16 Rhubarb Tarts. 16 Cabinet Puddings. 

150 Dinner Rolls. 

Bread, Butter, Cheese, and Biscuits. 
Wines or beer extra. 


LUNCH FOR 50 AT $1.20. (5S.) 

Clear and Ox-tail Soups. 

COLD. 

2 Fore Quarters Lamb. 1 Sirloin Beef. 
2 Veal and Ham Pies. 2 l ongues. 

S Roast Fowls. 1 Ham 
2 Mavonnaise Salmon. 4 Lobster Salads. 
4Jellies. 4 Creams. 4 Fancy Pasties. 
Wines, etc., extra. 


LUNCH FOR 27s AT 75 CENTS. (3S.) 

90 Quarts Clear Soup. 

COLD. 

4 Large Joints Roast Beef. 

2 Large Boiled Rounds Beef. 

4 Roast Legs Mutton. 

48 Fowls. 

2 Large Hams. 

2 Galantines of Veal. 

2 Pieces Pressed Beef. 

8 Steak Pies. 

8 Veal and Ham Pies. 

18 Jellies. 18 Creams. 

18 St. Clair Puddings. 

18 Rhubarb Tarts in deep soup plates. 

18 Mince Pies in deep soup plates. 

250 Rolls. Cut Bread, Butter, Cheese, etc. 
1 y 2 Sack Potatoes. 75 Cauliflowers. 
Wines or beer extra. 


“The autumn bills of fare can be served 
at the same rate; but substituting thick 
soups for clear, giving such fish as may be 
in season, and adding roast pork to the 
menu. 

“To avoid confusion (if possible) I allot 
two rooms, one for the landlord, or his 
agent, to use as an office where each tenant 
pays his rent. The tenants wait in the 
smoking, billiard, or other public rooms; 
and, if they number only twenty or thirty, 
I have their dinner spread in the ladies’ 
coffee-room, made private for the time 
being. But in cases where there are over 
a hundred I manage this way. 

“We will take No. 3 dinner served as 
follows; I had three long tables (seating 
fifty persons at each) down the room, and 
a serving table top and bottom. 


Serving-Table. 


Chairman. 



As the price was so low, I could not afford 
to hire special waiters, so placed my ov n, 
one on either side of each table, giving him 
two girls, housemaids or otherwise, one on 
each hand, thus allowing one waitress to 
every eight guests, and one waiter to nine 
ditto. Ten minutes before dinner time I 
marshalled them in their places, indicating 
how far down the table each was to look 
after the comfort of the visitors, and strictly 
enjoining that no one should run about or 
■wait on any fart of the table other than that 
allotted to him or her. Each waiter was 
instructed to keep a sharp look out all 
down his side of the table to see that the 
two waitresses were serving correctly,.their 
experience not being equal to his. 

“Having settled the question of atten¬ 
dance, I had the porters ready to bring up 
at a moment’s notice the soup, joints, and 
vegetables all boiling hot from the kitchen. 
Four servers took their position at the top 
serving-table, another four going to the 
bottom. Directly the guests entered, the 
porters brought up the soup in the stock 
pots (covered round with coarse white 
cloths). There was no need for hot soup 
plates, as ihe liquor was actually boiling on 
the serving tables. The eight servers soon 














THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


133- 


supplied the eighteen attendants, who as 
quickly served the guests; and as they 
collected the dirty soup plates, the servers 
were carving the joints and pies, two of 
their number transferring the vegetables 
. direct from the steamers into dishes to 
hand round as required. This arrange¬ 
ment ensuring, as it did, fresh and hot 
vegetables was much appreciated by the 
guests. I personally assured myself, by 
walking round the tables, that every guest 
was served, and properly served. Two 
young lads were deputed to go round with 
bread after the rolls were consumed, so 
that no 07 ie 'waited for that very necessary 
article, as is so often the case at large din¬ 
ners. 

“At the proper time the sweets were sent 
round, and such was the celerity of serving 
that the 150 diners were satisfied; every¬ 
thing (not wanted on the table) removed; 
and the chairman rose to make his speech 
■within the hour from the time of first sitting 
down. The porters had been taking away 
the dirty plates, etc., during the dinner, so 
that when I withdrew from the room with 
the waiters and waitresses, having only 
been there forty-five minutes, I had noth¬ 
ing to do beyond dividing such sweets as 
were left amongst the girls, who had come 
from their ordinary occupations and as¬ 
sisted so willingly. I may here add I find 
a little thoughtful kindness like this makes 
them ready volunteers for any great pres¬ 
sure. As soon as the guests departed, I 
took the staff into the room again, and 
each one looked up and secured the vari¬ 
ous things belonging to their different 
departments, thus avoiding loss or con¬ 
fusion. Three hours after the dinner 
everything was in proper order again, and 
the usual business of the hotel was never 
at any time interfered with. 

“The above hints will assist the experi¬ 
enced to serve dinners of any size, and the 
same rules may be carried out with regard 
to large cold luncheons. I have served 
the latter for 700 persons in less than one 
hour, with only fifteen waiters and thirty 
girl-helpers. In the case of the No. 5 


lunch, the fowls were carved a?id dished , 
and ham , pressed beef, galantines op veal , 
etc., sliced and served up on salad, and 
placed each side of the fowls. All these 
make very pretty dishes, if nicely orna¬ 
mented with colored kale, parsley, or 
flowers. No one, unless they try the plan, 
can conceive what a saving is effected by 
this mode of serving; for what would be 
only one joint can be made into a dozen 
dishes, and each person can help himself 
to a neatly carved slice, whereas few ca?i 
carve under such circumstances, and much 
fewer care to be troubled to do so for 
strangers. 

BASE BALL OR CRICKET LUNCH FOR 50 AT 60 CTS.. 

Boiled Round of Beef, about 20 lbs. 

Roast Sirloin (with horseradish'), about 20 lbs. 

2 Beefsteak Pies, 2 Veal and Ham Pies. 

S each Rhubarb and Gooseberry tarts. 8 Custards.. 

Salad, Bread, Butter, Cheese, New Potatoes 
and Ice. 


BASE BALL LUNCH FOR 75 AT 85 CTS. ( 3 S. 6 D.) 

20 lbs. Pickled Salmon and Sliced Cucumber. 

18 Roast Fowls. 1 Ham. 

Fore and Hind Quarter Lamb. 

Boiled Round Beef. 

Roast Sirloin, horseradish. 

12 Fruit Tarts. 12 Velvet Creams. 12 Jellies. 
Plenty of Salad, Bread, Butter, Cheese, New Pota¬ 
toes, and Ice. 


BASE BALL LUNCH FOR IOO AT ONE DOLLAR. 
Mayonnaise of Salmon, 30 lbs. 

Pressed Beef. 4 Pigeon Pies. 

Roast Sirloin Beef, horseradish. 

18 Roast Fowls. 4 Tongues. 1 Ham. 

12 Swiss Pastry. S Assorted ditto. 4 Fruit Tarts. 

18 Dishes Stewed Fruits. 6 Devonshire Cream. 
Plenty of Salad, Bread, Butter, New Potatoes,. 
Peas, and Ice. 


BASE BALL OR CRICKET LUNCJH FOR So 
AT $1.20. (5S.) 

20 lbs. Mayonnaise of Salmon. 6 Lobster Salads. 

1 Forced Turkey. 2 Targets of Lamb. 

4 Pdtes de Foie Gras in Aspic. 4 Raised Pies. 

12 Roast Fowls. 1 York Ham. 3 Tongues. 

1 Roast Sirloin Beef. 8 Boiled Fowls “ Bechamel.” 
6 Dishes Compotes Fruit. 2 Genoise Pastry. 

2 Dishes Baba C akes. 2 Small Pastry. 

6 Dishes Fruit Tarts. 6 Custards. 

6 Dishes Stewed Fruit. 6 Devonshire Cream. 
Plentv Salad, Bread, Butter, Cheese, New Potatoes, 
Green Peas, and Ice. 


“The foregoing were all supplied on the 
field, in a tent erected for that purpose. 
We did not provide the tent nor seats, but 
sent everything else, such as plate, glass 
cutlery, linen, kettles, saucepans, washing- 
up tins and cloths. We had a small Amer¬ 
ican stove on the outside of the tent, and 
cooked the new potatoes and green peas 








134 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


when, required—everything else was sent 
ready prepared from the hotel; but we 
dished and decorated the luncheon after 
its arrival, so that it looked perfectly fresh. 
Everything that would admit of it was 
carved beforehand and dished, so that 
guests could help themselves; the waiters 
cutting the heavy joints as required, pass¬ 
ing round the vegetables, bread, etc., as 
wanted, and attending to the orders for 
wines, which were under the special charge 
of the headwaiter. Every bottle of wine, 
spirits, beer, or mineral water was booked 
to him, and after the luncheon he was re¬ 
quired to return either the stock in full or 
its value in money. We made a sort of 
bar counter at the end of the tent so as to 
avoid all delay in serving. I may here 
add that this temporary bar did duty all 
•day for whatever drinks were required. 
(Mem.: It is necessary to obtain a special 
license from the magistrates to enable any 
one to sell excisable articles at or in any 
other place than their own properly licensed 
premises; but you may pack any quantity 
from the hotel in a luncheon-basket with¬ 
out the special license, provided it is or¬ 
dered and paid for in the hotel, and not 
retailed or sold afterwards.) When serving 
out-door luncheons, etc., be sure to be well 
supplied with bread , salt, etc., etc., cork¬ 
screws, champagne-nippers, ice, ice-ham¬ 
mers, needles, washing-up tins and cloths. 
I have known most excellent repasts al¬ 
most spoiled by the omission of one or 
more of these very necessary articles. Also 
be careful to have a plentiful supply of 
good water carried up to the field, if there 
is not a well very near. 

“I have always had the viands taken up 
in locked-up boxes, keeping the jellies, 
creams, e c., in their moulds till really 
needed to place on the table. The chef has 
gone up to the cricket field and turned out 
the sweets at the given time, as we easily 
procured hot water from the American 
stove for dipping the jelly and cream 
moulds into. At the same time he also 
carved and d shed up the fowls, so they did 
mot become dry from standing long ex¬ 


posed. Flowers, parsley, and other gar¬ 
nishes should be put on the different viands 
the last thing, as they so soon lose their 
freshness. 

“The above bills of fare are only intended 
as examples when the luncheons are given 
outside the house and at moderate prices. 
I have always found that simple, but sub¬ 
stantial, dishes are much preferred by the 
hungry cricketers to what Shakespeare 
calls “pretty, tiny little kickshaws.” 
Should, however, the match-ground be 
near enough for the players to come to the 
hotel, a much more varied repast can be 
given for the same price, as the labor and 
loss of serving in the house is nil when 
compared with the trouble and expense of 
catering at a distance. I have had many 
cricket-luncheons served in the hotel when 
to the quoted bills of fare have been added 
clear soup—if the club wished—or some 
nice little entree, such as mutton cutlets 
and fresh tomatoes, fillets of beef and mush¬ 
rooms, lamb chops and asparagus, hot 
crabs or lobsters and cucumbers. This 
last dish, by the way, was always so much 
liked that we never could quite satisfy the 
many who wanted a second helping. 

“It will be well to mention here that I 
have found it more satisfactory to supply 
one good entree, but plenty of it, than a little 
of two or three kinds; for it is a curious 
fact nearly all want the same, and it is 
mortifying after an entree has served about 
a dozen to find twenty other guests asking 
for that particular dish, and obliged to go 
without, whereas there may be a couple of 
entrees scarcely touched at all. 

“I remember on one occasion serving 
fifty splendid hot crabs and cutting up 
twenty large cucumbers (in vinegar with 
pepper and salt, the same as would be 
served with salmon), and not an atom of 
either was left; whereas a dish of beef ris¬ 
soles was untouched, and only one eaten 
from the chicken and ham patties. 

“ Do not forget to have plenty of ice on 
the tables, whether the refreshments be 
served in the house or on the field; nor yet 
when luncheon baskets are packed for 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


135 


races or picnics. Much the same fare will 
do on any or all occasions; only when 
packing for races I have always had the 
fowls carved and tied together with w r hite 
ribbon; salad nicely washed and placed in 
tin cases; salad-dressing and mint sauce 
made and bottled; butter, cheese, etc., etc., 
put into earthenware pots, with a plentiful 
supply of bread, salt, pepper, mustard, etc., 
not forgetting the corkscrew's, nippers, ice, 


ice needles and hammer; also napkins, 
crockery, cutlery, glass, spoons, forks, and 
requisites for washing-up purposes. 

“Note.— Unless the committee finds 
the tents, seats, etc., an extra charge must 
be added for these in accordance with the 
hire-payment made by the hotel-keeper.” 
—From the London Caterer and Hotel 
Proprietor's Gazette. 


.A. BECEPTIONT. 

COMPLIMENTARY TO A LADY AT A MEMPHIS HOTEL. 


N U.«- 


BOUILLON. 

** From the hand to the mouth the soup is often lost.”— Trans, fr. Fr. 


CELERY. 


FRIED OYSTERS. 

“An oyster may be crossed in love.”— Sheridan. 


PETITS BOUCIIEES, AUX SALPICON. 

“Such dainties to men, their health it might hurt, 

It’s like sending them ruffles when wanting a shirt.” — Goldsmith. 


DEVILED CRABS, IN SHELLS. 

“ He must have a long spoon that must eat with the Devil.”— Comedy of Errors. 

COLD—ROAST TURKEY. OX TONGUE. 

“ There’s cold meat in the cave, I browse on that.”— Cymbeline. 

CANETON DESOSSE. GALANTINE DE VOLAILLE. 

Cap. —What’s there? 1 st Serv. —Things for the cook, sir; I know not what.— Romeo and fuliet. 


PAIN DE GIBIER, AUX TRUFFES. 
“ Ay! That way goes the game.”— Tempest. 


MAYONNAISE OF SHRIMPS. 
“This sort were well fished for.” 


CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 

These trifles will lead'to serious mischief.” 

— Horace. 


VANILLA ICE CREAM. 

“You are the vanilla of society.” 

—Sydney Smith. 


ASSORTED CAKES. 

“ Would’st thou both eat thy cake and have it.”— Herbert. 


MALAGA GRAPES. 

** Meaning thereby that grapes were made to eat and lips to open.”— As you like it. 


COFFEE. 

“The cups that cheer, but do not inebriate.”— Cowper. 

“Night wears away, and morn is near, the stars are high, two-thirds of night are past; 

The greater part,—and scarce a third remains.”— Bryant. 

“ On with the dance! let joy be unconfin’d; no sleep till morn, when youth and pleasure meet.”— Byron. 
Januaky 13, iSSS. 





















FANTASIES OF PARTY GIVERS. 


It has been remarked already, the whole 
world of party givers are constantly strain¬ 
ing after something new, or, if not a fresh 
invention, something new to their own 
circle, and by way of showing what devices 
are hit upon, we will give specimens 
gathered from various sources. And, first, 
the series of dinners of one prevailing 
color. 

A PINK DINNER IN WASHINGTON. 

“In the dining 100m the idea of a pink 
dinner had been carried out in every 
detail, even to the pink globes on the large 
chandelier. The centrepiece of the table 
was composed of an elongated square of 
ferns, the four corners formed of great 
clusters of odorous carnations, while from 
the middle rose long-stemmed and La 
France and American beauty roses. At 
each of the four corners were fairy lamps 
under pink shades. The silver candelabra 
were filled with candles under shades of 
the same color. The menu was printed 
on a broad piece of pink satin ribbon, 
fringed at either end, and bearing on the 
left-hand corner at the top the name of the 
guest for whom it was intended. The 
rolls at each plate, cheese sticks and wafers, 
were tied up in small bundles with a tiny 
pink ribbon, while the icing of the small 
cakes, confections, and ice cream were all 
of the same color. The individual salt 
cellars and punch glasses were also pink. 

A boutonniere of carnation, or pink rose 
bud, lay at each plate. On the mantels 
were large vases of white chrysanthe¬ 
mums.” 

A YELLOW DINNER IN BOSTON. 

“ In dinner-party arrangements a pretty 
custom is rapidly gaining ground; this is 
to make one color in varied shades rule 
the roast, and to have one flower the pre¬ 
siding genius of the feast. Take the yel¬ 
low, for instance. Golden-hued chrysan¬ 
themums would be the most appropriate 

( 136 ) 


bloom to harmonize with this color in the 

shades of the large lamps on the side tables 

and sideboard, and the delicate fairy lamps 

marshalled on the dinner table. Careless 

posies of the same flower are suspended 

over the heads of the diners, and separate 

sprays lie carelessly at their sides, and 

grouped together, decorate the center of 

the table. All the service used at the meal 

must be in harmony, and in some instances 

the very cloth covering the table is of pale 

canary satin. At one dinner of eight a 

well-known entertainer carried out the 

» 

golden lead in the viands themselves—the 
soup was golden, so also were the fish and 
its sauce, entrees, sweets, and dessert all 
following suit.” 

A WHITE DINNER IN LONDON. 

“ During lent dinners au Mane, or white 
dinners, are fashionable. In many houses 
the fair, white damask tablecloths replace 
the covers of colored velvet, satin, plush, 
or sateens with their exquisite surclotks of 
laces, or, if colors are used, it is the soft 
violet shade, so beloved by the adherents 
to the third empire in France and the high 
church party in England. This is the 
menu of a white dinner recently given. 

MENU BLANC. 

Hors d'CEuvre. 

Hultres en Coquille. 

Soups. 

Potage au riz. Pui ee de Morue. 

Poisson. 

Brochet au Citron. Alose a la Marrons. 

Releves. 

Poulette au blanc. Filet de V eau k la Pfere Francois, 

Entrees. 

CEufs Farcies. Rissoles de Boeuf. Filets de 
Canards aux Navets. 

Roti. 

Agneau. Carre de Pore Roti. 

Entremets. 

Crbme de Noyau. Pannier de Roseblanc. 

Frangepane de Moelle. 

Canapees de Fromage a la Diable. 

Glaces. 

Citron. Cerises Blanc. 

Dessert. 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


13? 


A VIOLET SUPPER, 

“A ‘Cinderalla’ supper, recently served 
in Paris, was rendered quite charming by 
the free introduction of the modest flower 
which ‘opens with the earliest breath of 
spring.’ All the ladies wore violets in 
abundance on their white dresses, and each 
gentleman wore a button-hole of the poet- 
lauded flower. Supper was served at little 
tables—the parties carrees , or sets of four, 
being quite usual in Paris now. Each 
table was, instead of being covered with a 
cloth, strewed with a bed of fragrant pale- 
tinted violets.” 

A DINNER IN SCARLET AND BLACK. 

“ One of the dinner-table decorations for 
this season is Mephistophelian, out of 
compliment, doubtless, to the great Lyceum 
success. It is done entirely in flame-color 
■flowers with black foliage, and is beautifully 
diabolic. The candle shades are also flame- 
color, and the menu the same.” 

A PINK ROSE DINNER. 

“ One of the notions in table decoration is 
a pink satin tablecloth of the very palest 
tone. Only eight inches of this is, how¬ 
ever, visible, merely enough to allow room 
for the plates. All the rest of the table is 
hidden by grey gypsophila. In this is 
intermixed all tones of pink roses from the 
lightest to the deepest shade. In front of 
each guest is a slender glass vase with a 
rose. Those who have never tried the 
grassy gypsophila for decorating tables are 
recommended to do so, for it is both beau¬ 
tiful and durable.” 

A WHITE LILY DINNER. 

“The floral decorations at fashionable 
tabhs this season have been largely con¬ 
fined to one color. At a dinner given 
recently at the Russian Embassy a charm- 
ino- effect was obtained with one single 
kind of flower—the white lily. Every 
variety of this exquisite bloom was used, 
however, but beyond their own green 
leaves and creamy buds and a lovely 
bronze foliage, judiciously blended, there 


was no mixture whatever, and a more per¬ 
fect result could not possibly be imagined.” 

A MERMAID DINNER. 

“ A fish dinner has lately been the fash¬ 
ionable novelty in New York. Not only 
was the menu unique, but so also was the 
costume of one of the belles who graced 
the occasion. The private dining-room 
was turned into a bower of bright green, 
with seaweeds in profusion and quaint 
embellishments of shells, while borrowed 
pictures of pisciculture and water com¬ 
pleted the aquatic decoration. However, 
it was in one of the elaborate toilets that a 
clever conceit was most remarkably car¬ 
ried out. The wearer was a pretty girl, 
and belonged to a distinguished family. 
Her hair was loosened and embellished 
with sea-grass, a necklace and bracelets 
were pearls and coral; the sleeveless and 
low-cut corsage was delicate pink satin, 
shading off into the green of draperies 
fashioned in artistic imitaiion of a mer¬ 
maid's lower half. The scaliness of a fish 
was imitated by means of bead-work, the 
skirt was narrow, and a short train was 
shaped like the tail of a fish.” 

CROWNS, STARS AND DIAMONDS. 

“The floral decorations at fashionable 
dinner-parties are often arranged on a 
novel plan. At a recent Belgravian dinner 
a crown was made the central feature of 
the table. The cloth was left white, and 
in the center was a white satin cushion, 
upon which was placed a crown of the 
most vivid crimson flowers, and from it 
lono- trails of crimson flowers reached to 
the four corners of the table; a few small 
dishes of flowers at the head and fo.tof 
the table completed it. But dishes or 
vases are very little used now—the flowers 
are arranged on the cloth. The star shape 
is a most effective form of placing them, 
and is most beautiful when a cunning hand 
has led the color by gradations, from a 
vivid center to a pale shade at the points, 
where the tapering ray should end in a 
single leaf. 













A DINNER TABLE.—Reduced from an Engraving in Harper’s Bazar 

































































































































THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


139 s 


The engraving on the preceding page 
makes it easy to explain what is meant by 
the very old and most enduring fashion of 
the plateau or central ornament of the din¬ 
ner table. The table shown has no plateau 
strictly so called, but it has something in 
the place of it—a bank of moss and flowers. 
The plateau is, very often, a mirror laid 
flat on the table to represent a lake, and 
there must be—that is to say, there used to 
be—a rock castle or chateau, or monastery 
or temple, or something of the sort, in the 
center, with boats, swans, etc., around, and 
the edges of the mirror covered in any 
fanciful way to represent the shores of the 
sheet of water. This form is by no means 
abandoned. Sometimes now the fashion 
takes the shape of real water, with a foun¬ 
tain playing and live fish. Only so re¬ 
cently as President Cleveland’s inaugura¬ 
tion dinner—to be found mentioned further 
on—there was a large mirror laid flat upon 
the table, with at each end a ship built of 
flowers, and a sea-piece of the cook’s make 
was set afloat on the mirror. Another 
thing to be noted is the large number of 
glasses at each plate. For several years 
now perhaps eight or ten—it has been the 
fashionable rule to place a different glass 
for every kind of wine all on the table at 
once before the dinner began, as seen in 
the picture. As indicating a change of 
this fashion there comes to hand, while 
this book is in preparation for the press, a 
letter from the premier of all catering cor¬ 
respondents, the Paris correspondent of 
of the London Caterer, in which he re¬ 
marks of “a dinner at the house of one of 
the richest financiers in France, and the 
dinner was worthy of the host: 

“This dinner was served throughout on 
crockery representing the best old Rouen 
period. The glasses to each cover were 
numerous, though it is nozv the fashion in 
Paris to put one glass to each cover , and to 
change the glass at each fresh service of 
wine. It is also fashionable to change the 
set of plates with each course, that is to say, 
to have a plate of a different pattern of 


porcelain for each new dish. The decora¬ 
tion consisted of a large epergne full o£ 
flowers, dishes of fruit, dessert, etc. 

ZVCEiTTJ. 

Potage Crgme Princesse. 

Rissoles a la Pompadour. 

Turbans de Soles a la Cardinal. 

Filet de Bceuf k la Godard. 

Poularde k 1’Ivoire. 

Quartier de Chevreuil, Sauce Poivrade. 

Croustade de Foie Gras Charvin. 

Salade k la Russe. 

Petits Pois a i’Anglaise. 

G 3 .teau a l’Officier de l’Academie. 

Glace Revenez-y. 

Desserts. 

“The filet de boeuf h la Godard was an 
English sirloin served with trimmings of 
truffles boiled in cognac, mushrooms and 
cockscombs. The poularde k l’ivoire ap¬ 
parently owed its name to the beautiful 
whiteness and firmness of the fowl’s flesh. 
The quartier de chevreuil, which was most 
delicious, was served with red currant jelly, 
a very great improvement, suggested to 
her, as my amiable hostess said, by the 
English fashion. The croustade de foie 
gras was a large timbale of most delicious 
crust. The gkteau a l’officier de l’academ'e 
was a sponge-cake decorated with cream. 
Its name was a topical allusion to the re¬ 
cent decoration of one of the guests, the 
most popular actor at the Comedie Fran- 
gaise. As for the glace revenez-y (or come- 
back-to-the-ice), it was a tutti-frutti bomb 
of particular excellence. 

“The wines served at this dinner were 
claret, champagne of two kinds, hock, and, 
with the foie gras, some most delicious 
Romance Conti. This was served cold, 
after the fashion in Burgundy, and being 
cold made an excellent substitute for the 
mid-prandial sorbet, or iced punch, which, 
as will be seen, was wanting in the above 
menu. As a rule I prefer all burgundies at 
normal temperature. I found the Romar de 
Conti, however, on this occasion perfect, 
though cold. The above menu was written 
on rough-edged paper, with crossed spoons 
in the left-hand corner, the guest’s name 
being written obliquely in the right-hand 
corner. Gaudy menus are out of fashion 
in Paris just now, and I am glad of the 
change.” 




140 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


“ At a dinner lately given by Mrs. 
Mackay (wife of the American 4 Silver 
King’) the flowers were arranged in this 
star-shape, the center a heart of flame, and 
the rays shading to the palest tint as they 
tapered off. The places for the guests are 
laid just in between these rays; and the 
effect, as may be imagined, is exceedingly 
good.” 

A FIGURATIVE DINNER. 

“ Moore used to speak of a dinner party 
at Prince Esterhazy’s, where he had the 
honor to ‘assist.’ All the meats were 
represented in carved w r ood, beautifully 
painted. The guest pointed to the dish he 
wished for, and servants brought it to him 
in its real shape.” 

A VARI-COLORED DINNER IN BUFFALO. 

While the following in the first place is 
only amusing it really contains a service¬ 
able hint to those who have artistic pieces 
to display: 

“A gentleman who was invited out to 
dine at a Delaware residence lately ob¬ 
served that the chandelier over the dining¬ 
room table was of peculiar construction so 
that there was a light over the head of 
each guest. The globes were of various 
colors, some amber, some red, and some 
blue. 4 What is the object of having the 
globes of different colors? ’ the guest asked 
of the hostess. ‘Why, you see,’ said she, 
‘when one gives a dinner or tea one must 
invite some people whom one hates. Now, 
last Tuesday I gave a supper and had to 
invite two women whom 1 despise. But I 
had to invite them or some of the young 
men I wanted would’nt come. I had my 
revenge on my fair enemies, however. I 
placed each of these two women under one 
of those pale blue lights at table. They’re 
usually considered beautiful women, but 
under that light they had the most ghastly 
look you ever saw. They were perfect 
scarecrows. They seemed to have aged 
twenty years the minute that they sat 
down. The men noticed it, of course, but 
they did not divine what caused it. They 


were quite taken aback and awfully glum 
at first. But finally one of them turned 
with a sigh and began talking with a real 
lovely, homely little thing that was sitting 
under a ruby-colored light. Why, she 
was perfectly charming under it. So you 
see that when I want people to look per¬ 
fectly hideous I put them under the blue 
lights. It kills everything.’ The gentle¬ 
man looked up. He w r as under a blue 
light.” 

A TROPICAL DINNER IN NEW YORK. 

“Just before Lent a tropical dinner was 
given here by a wealthy man. The floral 
decorations were all tropical plants. For 
the ferns, palms, ivy, mandarin trees, 
Florida and Central and South America 
were ransacked. The truffles were brought 
from France and a bouquet of ten straw¬ 
berries was placed before each guest. 
These cost ten dollars a bunch. The table 
was arranged around a miniature lake, in 
which palms, lillies and ferns appeared to 
be growing, while tropical trees rose from 
the banks amid miniature parterres of 
flowers. Small electric lights, with vari¬ 
colored globes, were arranged about the 
lake, and by an unique arrangement elec¬ 
tricity was introduced under the water of 
the lake and caused to dance about in imi¬ 
tation of vari-colored fish. Twenty courses 
were served. There was no cloth on the 
table. A beautiful palm-leaf fan was placed 
on the table before each guest, and on these 
the plates rested. The individual decora¬ 
tions on each plate cost $30, while the 
favors cost as much more, and the menus 
$10 each. Roman punch was served in 
oranges hanging on the natural trees, the 
pulp of the fruit having been deftly re¬ 
moved so that the favored guests could 
pick their own fruit. The dinner cost $175 
per cover. The wine and music were 
extra.” 

FISH DINNERS IN PARIS. 

“The Paris ‘fish dinners’ for Wednes¬ 
days and Fridays are especially studied by 
hostesses to impress their visitors with the 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


141 


cleverness of their cook, who can serve up 
a most varied banquet without hurting the 
most tender devotee’s conscience by heret¬ 
ical meats. There is even a churchly touch 
in the menu, which represents a tiny illu¬ 
minated missal. Flowers are banished 
from the taole, but foliage of all kinds and 
tints is equally pretty and more novel for 
decoration. At dessert the fruits are no 
longer put on dishes, but served up as if 
hanging on their own trees, grapes, apples, 
and oranges being deftly fastened on small 
shrubs, and the pots being hidden by gold- 
embroidered plush coverings.” 

FRENCH DINNER TABLE DECORATIONS. 

“From information supplied by a Parisian 
caterer it appears that there are at present 
four fashionable styles of dinner-table de¬ 
corations in vogue in the Gay City. These 
are known respectively as the ‘Diner Par¬ 
terre,’ the ‘ Diner Foret Vierge,’ the ‘Diner 
Virtuine,’ and the ‘Diner Reposoir.’ In 
the first the table is ornamented with little 
flat silver saucers filled with green moss, in 
the centre of w r hich is a glass tulip-lamp. 
In the second the decorations consist of 
numerous old Dresden china statuettes and 
similar articles de vertu in porcelain: 
Cupids, Venuses, Watteau lords and ladies, 
set here and there singly or in groups or 
half hidden in clusters of flowers. The 
object of the Diner Repo>oir is to remind 
one of the simple decoration of the village 
church on the occasion of the great Catho¬ 
lic festival of the Fcte-Dieu. A garland, 
thick in foliage and composed of roses, 
violets and ivy, goes round the table. In 
the centre a large basket containing the 
same flowers is placed. In the Diner 
Foret Vierge the decoration consists of a 
number of silver baskets fashioned in the 
shape of the bales or hampers in which 
coffee is shipped from the plantations. 
These baskets are filled with bunches of 
orchids tied together with knots of bril¬ 
liantly colored and variegated ribbons.” 

IMITATING LUCULLUS. 

“The fashionable dinner parties in Paris 
have taken up a new craze—to have all 


their principal viands brought from great 
distances. These chic dinners have sterlets 
brought from the distant Volga, haunch 
of reindeer from Lapland, a bear ham 
from the frozen regions of North Russia, 
and other novelties from other inhospitable 
and uncomeatable places.” 

royal soup. 

“Emperor William recently expressed 
to Grand Duke Vladimir, of Russia, his 
regret at not being able to get a taste once 
more of a certain Russian soup, called 
uclici, of which he had been excessively 
fond on his former visits to St. Petersburg, 
and the proper recipe for which seemed to 
be a secret, even to his chief cook. He 
was pleasantly surprised shortly afterward 
at having this favorite dish served to him 
in a masterly manner. Grand Duke Vla¬ 
dimir had quietly sent his cook to Berlin 
with two enormous live sturgeons, taken 
fresh from the Volga, this fish forming 
the essential ingredients of the uclia. The 
difficulty attending this little attention may 
readily be appreciated from the fact that 
the sturgeon had to be transported from 
the frontier of Asia, and that this fish, like 
trout, has to be kept constantly supplied 
with fre c h water during the transit in order 
to keep it alive.” 

THE SAME IDEA WITH A PURPOSE IN IT. 

“ The bill of fare at the banquet which 
was given at Madrid last week in honor of 
the anniversary of the discovery of Amer¬ 
ica was an international curiosity in its 
way. By way of doing ‘homage to Co 
lumbus’ the guests who sat down to dine 
at the Theatre Royal on the 12th inst. 
were supplied with the following menu: 
Soup—Isabel, the Catholic and American 
soup; fish from the port of Palos, from 
which Columbus set sail on his first voy¬ 
age to America, loin & l’Amiral, Castilian 
partridge, Andes pheasants, Jamaica punch, 
roasted Brazilian peacock, Estremadura 
beans, Havana sweetbread, New York ices, 
Granada fruit, and Puerto Rico coffee.” 






142 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


FLORAL DECORATIONS AT PRESIDENT 

Arthur’s state dinners. 

“The Marine Band was stationed at the 
large entrance hall and played during the 
evening, and the apartments on the lower 
floor were thrown open and decorated. In 
the East Room the mantels were banked 
with plants and mosses, and fan and date 
palms and tropical plants were grouped in 
angles and window embrasures. Chains 
of smilax on the chandeliers and mirror 
frames enhanced the beauty of the apart¬ 
ment. The red, blue and green parlors 
were similarly decorated with palms and 
plants, and at the end of the corridor the 
silver Hiawatha boat, filled with roses, was 
on an antique marble table. 

“The guests arrived before 8 o’clock and 
were first conducted to the dressing rooms 
on the upper floors. When all had as¬ 
sembled in the East Parlor the President 
was summoned, and, descending with Mrs. 
McElroy, greated his guests and led the 
way to the state dining-room with Mrs. 
Freilinghuysen as the first gue6t of honor. 
The state dining-room was appropriately 
decorated with palms, blooming azalias, 
and other plants, and the table was orna¬ 
mented with a large set-piece in flowers, 
intended as a fanciful representation of the 
hanging gardens of Babylon. The raised 
garden overhung the long central mirror 
which, as a lake with coral grottoes and 
mossy shores, bore a fleet of tiny boats 
loaded with roses. The garden, in canopy 
shape, rose three feet or more from the 
table and was nearly six feet in length. 
It was composed of red and white carna¬ 
tions, with banks of Marshal Niel and bon 
silene roses, set with orchids. At the ends 
of the mirror lake were tall gilt candelabra, 
bearing shaded wax lights, and beyond 
them large crystal bowls, overrunning 
with long-stemmed roses. Circular plaques 
of roses, carnations and lillies of the valley 
flanked by silver candelabra, were at the 
extreme ends of the table. 

“The board was laid for thirty-six covers. 
Six wine glasses, a water carafe and goblet 
were at each place, together with the menu 


cards and boutonnieres for the gentlemen, 
and large coi sage bouquets of roses or 
lillies of the valley for the ladies. Sixteen 
courses were served.” 

president Cleveland’s table. — re¬ 
volving GLOBE. BASS IN JELLY. 

“The centre of attraction in the dining 
room was the long white damasked table, 
about which the thirty-eight guests of the 
evening sat with the President and Miss 
Cleveland. The gilded central plateau, 
which ran almost its entire length, had its 
upright edges twined with smilax, and its 
central ornament was an immense floral 
globe fully ten feet in circumference. It 
revolved under a square support and up¬ 
right frame, and was set so high that it did 
not obstruct the view across the table. 
The land surface was marked by solid 
clusters of carnations in red, white, pink, 
and scarlet. The oceans were represented 
by the lapped leaves of shining camellias, 
and the bays, rivers, and small streams 
were marked by tiny strands of smilax. 
The square-framed support was garlanded 
in smilax, and above it was a single star in 
red immortelles. The globe almost rested 
on a field of bon silene roses, set in a mass 
of smilax. Two ships rode at anchor on 
the mirrored surface of the plateau, their 
hulls made of pink and white carnations. 
The bow was filled with Catharine Mermet 
roses, and the stern Weighted with Parma 
violets. The rigging was twined with 
smilax. Two overflowing gilded vases of 
Marechal Niel and bon silene roses marked 
the extreme ends of the table, and flat bou¬ 
quets the added corners that accommo¬ 
dated four extra guests. A sea bass envel¬ 
oped in jelly rode proudly in a chariot 
drawn by sea nymphs, and round fanci¬ 
fully arranged moulds of /S/e de foie gras 
were the French chef's contributions to the 
beauty of the table.” 

FLORAL DECORATIONS AT THE PRINCESS > 

BALL. 

“The ball to the Princess Louise and 
the Marquis of Lome at the Windsor Ho- 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


143 


tel in Montreal, b: ought out the elite, and, 
as it was the farewell to the Queen’s 
daughter, more than ordinary attention 
was paid to it. Decorations in the floral 
way from Boston, the rarest flowers from 
hot-houses, and all that decorative artists 
from New York could devise was done to 
make the ball room attractive. The ball 
room was magnificent, and, in fact, the 
Windsor Hotel never looked so gay. The 
scarlet and black of the infantry and blue 
and gold of the cavalry and the stately 
dress black, with the hundred and one 
shades of silk and satins worn by the ladies, 
together with the flashing of diamonds, 
gave the grand promenade a bewildering 
appearance. Soon after the dancers had 
entered the room, Princess Louise entered 
upon the arm of the Marquis, and they 
took places upon a dais. The Princess 
wore a white brocade cape overdress 
trimmed with crimson velvet flowers, a 
rich diamond necklace and head-dress of 
diamonds, simplicity itself. She looked 
very beautiful. The noticeable feature of 
the ladies’ toilet was the absence of low 
neck and few floral head-dresses, and dia¬ 
monds were generally worn in their place. 
There were many celebrities present.” 

TENS OF THOUSANDS OF FLOWERS. 

A Boston florist, who was engaged to 
furnish part of the floral decorations for 
the Princess Louise ball at the Windsor 
Hotel in Montreal, had them transported 
in a special car. There were: 20,000 roses, 
20,000 carnations of different colors, 
1,000 spikes of tube roses, 500 bunches of 
violets, 1,000 sprays of heliotrope, 2,000 
strings of smilax, and 2,000 yards of En¬ 
glish laurel. 

DECORATED DISHES AT MRS. VANDER¬ 
BILT’S RECEPTION. 

“ One piece was a game pie of pheasants, 
the pie resting on a flat surface of wax, the 
entire piece upheld with deer’s antlers. 
The sides of the pie were trimmed with 
quails. Underneath were two rabbits play¬ 
ing cards, while to the side of the players 


was a bridge, under which gleamed a lake 
of water with goldfish swimming about. 

“Another was a fruit dish in wax, in 
which were placed imitation eggs and 
potted reed birds. 

“Another piece was a fillet of beef, with 
a garniture of vegetables of all kinds rest¬ 
ing on the shoulders of a Hercules; on 
either side were placed some cupids, the 
figures being of wax and very cleverly 
executed. 

“ One of the most artistic pieces was a 
two-foot salmon, resting in a wax boat, 
while on the back of the fish sat a cupid; the 
boat was supported by a Neptune at each 
end, seated in sea shells and driving sea 
horses before them in a lake of real water 
in which fish were swimming around. 

“A fine piece was a flying Mercury poised 
upon a ham, the ham being finely orna¬ 
mented with a delicate tracing of truffles. 

“About midnight the following artistic 
supper was served: ” 

MENU DU SOUPER. 

Consomm4 en tasse Hultres & la poulette 

Croquettes de volaille Bouchees a la reine 
Terrapin a la Maryland Canvas-back duck 

Galatine de ehapon 
Filet de bceuf, jarainifere 
Aspic de foie-gras, belle vue 
Chaudfroid de mauviettes Pate de gibier, chasseur 
Pate de Strasbourg, naturel 
Saumon a la Vatel Jambon a la gelee 

Salade de poulet Salade de homard 

Voli&re de cailles Sandwiches varies 
Charlotte moderne 

Gel^e macedoine aux fruits Glacds assorties 

mrs. Vanderbilt’s diamond ball. 

The grandest and probably most expen¬ 
sive ball which ever took place in New 
York was given by Mrs. Vanderbilt about 
three or four years previous to the recep¬ 
tion alluded to above. It was described as 
“an Eden of tropical exotics—musical strains 
from a rose-embowered arbor—flashing 
diamonds on a sea of silken waves—a sup¬ 
per fit for the gods, fringed by a cataract 
of wine.” The menu makes but a small 
figure in print for an occasion that was 
reported to have cost $30,000. But this 
is it: 

The menu was engraved in delicate 
script and printed on a heavy bevelled 
bristol card, with gilded edges, three and 





144 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


a half inches wide by five inches in depth. 
In the centre, near the top, was the Vander¬ 
bilt coat of arms in raised gold. 

CHAUD. 

Bouillon. 

Huitres frites. Croquettes de volailles. 
Terrapine & la Maryland. 

FROID. 

Saumon a la Rothschild. 

Galantine de volaille aux truffes. 

Filets de boeuf a la gelee. 

Jambon a la g-elee. Poulet a la gelee. 

Chaudfroid de mauviettes. 

Aspic de foie gras en bellevue. 

Salade de volaille au celeri. 
Mayonnaise de homard laitues. 
Sandwiches a la Windsor. Pain de Rilette. 
Baba au rum. 

GLACES. 

Napolitaine. Biscuit glace. 

Merveilleuse. Diable rose. 

Vanille. 


[ Translation of the above menu.'] 

HOT. 

Bouillon. 

Fried oysters. Chicken croquettes. 

Terrapin, Maryland style. 

COLD. 

Salmon a la Rothschild. 

Boned fowl, truffled. 

Fillet of beef in jelly. 

Ham in jelly. Chicken in jelly. 

Chaudfroid of reed birds. 

Aspic of foie gras en bellevue. 

Chicken salad au celery. 

Mayonnaise of lobster and lettuce. 

Sandwiches k la Windsor. Rilette bread. 

Baba au rum. 

Five varities of ices. 

THE PROGRESSIVE DINNER NOVELTY. 

“The progressive dinner has leaped at one 
bound into popular favor. This new freak 
of New York festivities imposes on each 
geust of the masculine persuasion the duty 
of moving at the end of each course one 
seat to the left until he has completed the 
circuit of the dinner table, tarrying for a 
brief period at the side of each lady of the 
party. When he has safely completed the 
hazardous voyage and has steered once 
more into the haven of refuge provided by 
his first love, there he may rest till the 
chairs are pushed back and a final adjourn¬ 
ment taken. A much more careful choos¬ 
ing of guests to harmonize each with all is 
sure to be the result of this last of fashion’s 
mandates, so a woman who has obeyed it 
tells me, if the notion of the week is to en¬ 
dure even for a fortnight, for a single dis¬ 
cordant note mars the effect of all. Any 


sandwiching in of dull folk or prosy folk 
is sure to be revealed in this puss in the 
corner game.” 

THIS LADY HAD A NEW IDEA. 

“ Recently Senora Romero, the wife of 
the Mexican Minister at Washington, gave 
a special afternoon reception, at which 
Mexican chocolate was made by a Mexican 
girl before the company. The girl, who 
was unable to speak a word of English, is 
a member of the company of Mexicans 
now here who have recently established 
the unique show, the Mexican village. On 
a square table in front of the girl was a 
native charcoal stove of red earthenware 
in the shape of a gentleman’s hat, and 
called by the Mexicans ‘brasero.’ A half 
moon cut in what would be the top of the 
hat furnishes the necessary place for a 
draught to keep the coal above near the 
brim warm and glowing. The chocalate, 
which is in large cakes, is then finely 
broken into an earthen jar, on one side of 
which is a handle. Into this jar is then 
put cream, sugar, and the white of egg and 
cinnamon, which are mixed by a small 
instrument resembling a churn-stick, which 
the girl moves rapidly between her hands 
by rubbing them together. The compound, 
which in appearance resembles the choco¬ 
late ordinarily prepared, is thoroughly 
heated through by being placed on the 
glowing coals in the earthen jar in which 
it is made. From this it was transferred 
to the silver urn on the dainty spread table, 
and served by the young ladies presiding.” 

COULD’NT “CALL off” THE ENTREES. 

“ The Greek consul in Boston is an hon¬ 
ored and esteemed member of the New 
England Club, who sit down to a pleasant 
little family gathering at Young’s every 
Saturday afternoon. Yesterday happened 
to be his birthday, and the president has 
been engaged in devising a little surprise, 
not only for the genial consul, but for the 
whole club. It had been announced that 
‘Greece’ was to be the subject of the 
weekly discussion, but when the members 









THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


145 


arrived at Young’s yesterday afternoon, 
and, after exchanging greetings, sat down 
around a well laden board and took up the 
menu cards, their faces at once assumed a 
puzzled look, which gradually gave place 
to expressions of utter despair or broad 
gleams of fun. Then the waiters appeared, 
gazed at the bills helplessly and hopelessly, 
and retired for consultation. The entire 
bill of fare was printed in Greek. There 
were long words and short words, and 
whole strings of hieroglyphics, which am¬ 
bitious members vainly sought to translate 
into the nomenclature of the modern cui¬ 
sine. At last one member cut the Gordian 
knot by summoning a chuckling waiter 
and boldly ordering ‘some of No. i.’ 
Others followed suit, and so the whole list 
of goodies was disposed of amid much 
hilarity and many earnest discussions as to 
whether ‘No. 6’ was ever better, or whether 
any member in his whole experience ever 
remembered a time when ‘No. 3’ or ‘No. 7’ 
tasted so good to him as on that particular 
occasion. Ex-president Folsom, not fully 
satisfied by the course arbitrarily prescribed 
by the bill of fare, varied the monotony by 
demanding ‘Socrates hash,’ and was loudly 
seconded by another member who wanted 
‘Acropolis beans,’ and yet a third who de¬ 
clared for ‘ ham and eggs a la Diogenes.’ ” 

THE SAME THING ELSEWHERE. 

“ One of the most curious menus ever 
issued to guests was that arranged by the 
members of the British Medical Associa¬ 
tion and served at the Ship Hotel, Green¬ 
wich.” 

The entire bill of fare was printed in the 
newspaper—it was a large one, containing 
many courses, and every word and head¬ 
ing was printed in Latin. 

NOTIONS IN SILVER. 

“Among accepted novelties in dinner 
giving in Paris must be mentioned the 
now general fashion of much silver bric-a- 
brac upon the tables. To each guest a tiny 
silver salt cellar, of a different shape to 
each cover. This in the shape of a mar- 


mite, this of a saucepan, that of a shell. 
Also at small familiar dinners to each 
guest a little butler dish, also of silver, in a 
fanciful shape and a tiny knife thereto—an 
excellent addition to a table when oysters 
are served, and pretty withal, also appetiz¬ 
ing with the ice-spangled pat of yellow 
butter in the silver shell. Still at the 
‘diner intime,’ in front of the host the 
mustard pot, the pepper mill. Yonder a 
silver pickle jar. The table should re¬ 
semble a children’s feast. Lilliputian 
trifles everywhere. Candles are much 
used now, with tinted shades, in silver 
candlesticks.” 

THE VIENNA COFFEE FASHION. 

“ The latest agony in silver table decora¬ 
tion is a very large platter with a swan at 
one end. On this coffee cups are placed, 
with a cream jug and sugar bowl. The 
latter should be of Saxon manufacture to 
be entirely correct. The huge swan, with 
its outstretched wings and curved neck, is 
in reality a coffee pot, which the hostess 
can swing on and off the platter to serve 
the fragrant beverage, lifting each time the 
delicate throat of the bird. It is an old 
Louis XV. model rejuvenated and a trifle 
modernized.” 

DIFFERENT CHINA FOR EACH COURSE. 

“ A few years ago the dinner set signi¬ 
fied every piece used upon the table from 
the soup set to the after dinner coffees, 
but fashion has changed all this and the 
different courses are much more effective 
served with dishes contrasting in color and 
ornamentation. Very little extra expense 
is involved in this change, as some of the 
china or porcelain fish sets, soup, game or 
oyster sets, with neat dessert and fruit sets 
of the most artistic shape and decoration, 
can be had at a very small price compared 
with that of a complete set a few years 
ago. Oyster sets are really not essential, 
yet it is very nice to have them. The 
half dozen oysters may be served upon 
any dinner plate with a bit of lemon in the 
center and should be upon the table when 









146 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


dinner is announced. A handsome soup 
set adds much to the table, but fish may 
be served upon any dining plate that cai} 
be heated. A fish set showing designs of 
salmon or trout strung upon hooks or in 
the meshes of a net or from a forked stick 
is certainly not a very appetizing sight. 
The potato dish should be in harmony 
with the fish service, whether it be plain 
or decorative. Glass dishes may be used 
for olives, pickles or cucumber salad, 
which is very nice served with fish. These 
may remain on the table during the entire 
dinner. 

“Meats should not be served on plates 
fancifully painted, a border only being in 
better effect. Dinner plates, meat platter 
and vegetable dishes should be alike, and 
although the coffee cups must be the same 
size or shape, they may exhibit different 
colors and ornamentations. Haviland 
porcelain is among the elegant table ware, 
and its value is according to the decora¬ 
tions, which are from the finest landscape 
painting to the quaintest genre. Minton 
china shows a white ground with floria- 
tions v.ined and edged with gold. The 
Danish porcelain, which is especially 
adapted to dessert sets, shows the edges 
open. The low, wide amber glass finger 
bowls are fashionable and pretty, and 
those in other styles and the elegant cut 
glass bowls are often selected by the 
wealthy.” 

CANDLES AND GLASS SHADES. 

“The candle on the dinner table holds 
its place still. The latest device that the 
art ware establishments have contrived for 
its adorning is a sliding scale that falls im¬ 
perceptibly as the candle burns lower. The 
shade is made in the simple Bohemian 
glasses, in decorated art glass of every de¬ 
scription, and is sometimes seen in rare 
jewelled glass in every rich, soft hue. The 
shaded candle sheds over table furnishings, 
flowers and faces of the guests the very 
perfection of light that the dinner givers 
have looked for these many years in vain.” 


NOTIONS IN ICES. 

“At a Cinderella ball the ices, of the 
biscuit glacb form in paper cases, each con¬ 
tained a gift, either a small coin, a tiny 
thimble, a ring, or some of the pretty toy¬ 
like patterns in silver broches and watch 
charms, cornelian hearts, sparkling flowers 
in jewelry, all of the smallest description. 
The gifts were wrapped in transparent cara¬ 
mel paper and pushed down at one side of 
the ice, and the outside of each case bore a 
motto. Handsome flower-bordered cards, 
with written quotations from the poets, 
were attached to the spoons, which with 
the plates were selected by the young ladies 
and young gentlemen for each other in 
turn.” 

CHANGING DECORATIONS FOR EACH MEAL. 

One of the British princes was recently 
entertained at the country seat of a noble¬ 
man at a “hunt breakfast” and dinner, 
and the decorations and table ware were 
changed for each as follows: 

HUNT BREAKFAST MENU. 

Broiled Kidneys. Pulled Fowl. 

Salmon Steaks. Stuffed Tomatoes. 

Sheeps Tongues. Potted Pigeons. 

Broiled Rump Steaks. Quneiles. 

Croquettes of Rice and Ham. 

Chickens in Bechamel. 

Potted Game. P&te M£l<5. 

Cold Sirloin of Beef. Pressed Tongues. 

York Hams. Raised Pies (various). 

Normandy Pippins. Stewed Prunes. 

Clotted Cream. 

Roast Snipes. Woodcocks. Trushes. 

Apple Marmalade. Apricotjam. Currant Jelly. 

Vanilla Milk. Cafe au Lait. Tea. 

Luqueurs. 

“The tables on this occasion were dressed 
with white cloths and decorated h. lajarai- 
nibre. The silver antique jardinieres were 
filled with ferns and spring flowers, peep¬ 
ing out of mosses of various kinds. Large 
silver bowls and epergnes on the side-board 
and side tables were filled with exquisite 
arrangements of hyacinths, tulips, wood 
violets, snowdrops, etc., in mosaic patterns; 
whilst hanging baskets graced the win¬ 
dows, filled with the spiritulle cyclamen 
light foliage, interspersed with yellow and 
red flowers, that gave the grand old oak 
hall a splendid appearance. The display 
of antique flate would have delighted the 









THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


147 


heart of the most enthusiastic antiquary, 
and the tout ensemble seemed to give the 
young prince much pleasure. 

“The vanilla milk, which, by the way, 
was half cream, found great favor, and was 
served steaming hot in silver cups. Some 
added cura^oa to it, others a. petit verve de 
Cognac , but the majority preferred the 
sweet beverage simply as prepared in the 
kitchen by my worthy old friend, the chef, 
who is too modest to allow me to give his 
name.” 

The dinner menu was as follows: 

IMHEZNTTT- 

SOUPS. 

Vermicelli. Mulligatawney. 

Salmon, Fennel Sauce. 

Boiied Cod, Oyster Sauce. 

Poulet k la Albert Victor, Mushroom Sauce. 

Pigeons a la Zetland, Madeira Sauce. 

Veal k la Piedmontese. 

Blanquet de Mouton. 

Roast Sirloin, Hors -radish Sauce. 

Turkev, Sauce Athenian. 

Asparagus en Croustade. Artichoke Fritters. 

Bondon Cheese a la Diable. 

Apricot Pudding. Devonshire Clotted Cream. 

Bread and Butter Pudding, Wine Sauce. 

Salad. Dessert. 

“The room was decorated with palms, 
choice tropical plants, and exqusite exotic 
flowers, forming a complete change to the 
morning decorations. The band played 
in an ante-room adjacent, which was cur¬ 
tained off, and also profusely decorated 
with mirrors and floral beauties. The din¬ 
ner service was of very handsome old china , 
the floral decorations on the table were 
laid in the Oriental style now so fashion¬ 
able.” 

A BOATING club’s FANTASY. 

“The table was decorated with glass ware 
in the shape of small boats mounted on 
plateaux of looking-glass, surrounded by 
sage-green plush borders, fringed by silk 
blond lace of a lighter shade. The boats 
rested on four glass oars, crossed at either 
side, and forming a stand. Light trailing 
foliage depended from the boats, and trailed 
on the glass plateaux. Spring flowers 
from the sunny South filled the boats and 
nestled amidst ferns and mosses arranged 
round the gunwales. At the prows of the 
larger-sized bateaux were little flags and 


ensigns. Small glass boats were laid at 
each cover, filled with dark-blue violets 
and French or Italian grown forget-me- 
nots in alternate boats. The violets for 
the gentlemen, the light-blue flowers for 
the fair visitors. The menus were printed 
on cards representing a yacht’s sail, silver- 
edged and supported at the back by an 
oar, which fixed the card easel-fashion. 
The napery was folded a la bateaux , and 
the gunwales formed of violets, snowdrops, 
and primroses, intertwined with light foli¬ 
age and mounted on wire, so that they 
were readily removed by the guests and 
kept in form without the untidy litter often 
caused by the insertion of loose sprays in 
the serviettes. In the centre of the table 
was an epergne filled with fruit and 
flowers. In the middle of the large glass 
dish, on the top, was an Undine boat, filled 
with flowers, and an exquisite wax model 
of Undine, the water spirit, in their midst. 
The boat was surrounded by fruits and 
flowers of the most expensive class, inter¬ 
mixed with young palm-leaves and natural 
grasses. At the foot, beside the claws (re¬ 
presenting four lions couchant ), were groups 
of little sailor dolls, representing the crews 
and their friends, no doubt, some with 
small polished oars, others with flags, and 
a couple with flagons in their hands. The 
tout ensemble was very pretty.” 

SCENE PAINTED BALL SUPPERS. 

“The buffet was shaped in the conven¬ 
ient horse-shoe style, and dressed with the 
usual holly, mistletoe, bay, laurel, and 
rosemary; also a goodly show of chrysan¬ 
themums and hot-house flowers—the latter 
arranged in baskets. A plentiful supply 
of French-grown feathermcss, sent in 
boxes, was a wonderful help to the buffet 
dressing. One feature of the decorations 
must not be forgotten, and it is a point that 
caterers would do well to insist on being 
adopted, as it is good for trade and a real 
boon to the guests. I refer to the coterie 
nooks in the ball-rooms, ante-rooms, and 
conservatories. In this case they were 
replicas of a moonlight scene. The land- 






148 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


scape painted in distemper on canvas at 
the back. The moon, full or crescent, let 
into the canvas and made of oiled paper, 
and a lamp hung behind; a bed of moss 
reached slantwise from the scene to the 
ground; chairs and ‘sociables’ were placed 
amongst palms, shrubs, etc. Fairy rings 
were made of mushrooms (edible ones, too, 
for they were formed of sugar-work); in 
the moss, and at a square coterie table, 
stood a neat-handed Phyllis, with pins, 
needles and threads, perfume?, and a light 
array of light refreshments—ices, sherry, 
champagne syphon, and aerated waters; 
also plain iced water, eau sucre , and fruits. 
It saves partners leaving to rush to the 
salle-\-manger in search of ices, wines, etc., 
for their lady friends, and if slight acci¬ 
dents occur to the pretty, fairy-like or gor¬ 
geous toilets of the fair dancers, they are 
soon repaired without the inevitable with¬ 
drawal to the cloak-room. Fairy lamps, 
in wreaths, and peeping out from the foli¬ 
age, completed most harmonious scenes.” 

SEA CAVERNS AND FAIRY GROTTOS. 

“At Lord X’s, one of the wealthiest 
peers of the realm, great preparations are 
being made for the coming of age of the 
heir. He was a veritable Christmas box 
to his family, being born on boxing-day, 
and the festivities are to be of quite an elab¬ 
orate character. There are to be two sup¬ 
per rooms—one Oriental and the other a 
representation of ocean caves. The latter 
is a wooden building thrown out from the 
piazza leading from the dining-room win¬ 
dows, and taking the whole area of the 
three windows and the lawn. This hint 
as to mode of decoration may be useful 
both to restaurateurs and caterers. The 
caves are formed of cork, whitewashed, 
and then brushed over with a solution of 
Epsom salts and permitted to dry; this 
forms crystals, and is mixed with other 
pieces of cork finished by being dusted 
whilst wet with ground glass. Glass dust 
is procurable at a very cheap rate from the 
glass works. These pieces of cork, when 
finished, are to be nailed to the roof and 1 


sides of the room, and pots of grass inter¬ 
spersed amongst the wall decorations. 
Coke coated with whi'ewash for the 
ground. Gas jets with reflectors of glass 
mounted on discs with red, green and 
white tinfoil at the back will be grouped 
so as to give quite a fairy-like beauty to the 
scene; and one large electric lamp will be 
placed in the wooden building, the same 
machine supplying the electricity as that 
used for the ball room. This, by the way, 
is a continuation of the central hall, which 
acts as reception and crush room, and for 
the buffets of ices, claret and champagne 
cups, etc.” 

A SEA SHELL DINNER. 

“The host has a favorite hobby—con- 
chology—and a most superb collection of 
shells, corals, and algae, and the caterer 
pressed the whole into his service, and 
turned out what the hostess was pleased to 
^erm ‘one of the most beautiful and novel 
table-dressings she had met with;’ and her 
experience is wide. 

“The huge masses of white, pink, and 
smaller clusters of red coral were disposed 
of down the centre of the table, seaweeds 
(dried, of course) clustering around their 
base. Chrysantemums—white, red, j^ellow, 
etc.—and their smaller brethren, the pom¬ 
pons, were arranged in groups on rocks to 
resemble sea-anemones, and in clusters on 
the base of the corals. Star-fish and sim¬ 
ilar Crustacea were of the greatest service. 
In the fountains and at the foot of the 
flower vases was a plentiful supply of gold 
and silver carp. 

“ There was not nearly enough coral 
branches for the design, so imitation clus¬ 
ters were formed by making wire frame¬ 
works, wrapping them evenly and regu¬ 
larly over with soft-finished hank darning 
cotton; then melting vermillion and pale 
yellow wax and dipping in the clusters. 
The separate groups required to be sus¬ 
pended by wire and to be dipped in when 
the wax is a little cool, then allowed to 
hang with the points of the sprays down¬ 
wards. When nearly set, have a few fine 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


needles or pins set in a cork and prick the 
whole surface of the wax over, so as to 
imitate the cells in the larger coral growths. 
Large clam shells, one nearly ^ yard 
across, served as flower vases, whilst their 
smaller polished confrbres of the sea, nau¬ 
tilus and cup-like bivalves, made excellent 
fruit-stands, in groups of three between 
each guest. 

“They used a species of fairy-lamp, 
mounted on electro-silver stands, shading 
from pale yellow to deep orange, from pale 
blue to a very delicate Alexandra tint, and 
, rose to damask. These in two and threes, 
with nautilus shells between, filled with 
delicate white sprays, gave a subdued and 
beautiful softness to the whole of the table 
decorations. Nougat shells and rockeries 
helped out the mise-en-sckne . Nor must I 
forget the mermaids, made from dolls’ 
heads having long fair hair, and finished 
with fish-tails formed from wax, and tinted 
as one would shade wax flowers or fruit. 
The colors were laid here and there on 
silver and g:>ld leaf, so as to shade from 
silver white to lead or steel grey, and from 
gold to deep orange yellow. A traditional 
looking-glass and coral spray as a comb 
completed the toilet, according to our Ay- 
toun’s old ballad: 

* For aye she cambed her yellow hair, 

And syne she sang- sae sweet.’ 

Only, the dolls did not sing; but the string 
band in an adjacant chamber discoursed 
some very fine music, classical and other¬ 
wise, instead of the siren’s song, which no 
doubt the guests appreciated highly.”— 
Cordon Bleu in the British Baker, Confec- 
cioner and Purveyor. 

A WEDDING BANQUET. 

The following is the menu of a wedding 
banquet served at the Southern Hotel, St. 
Louis. Covers were laid for one hundred 
and fifty persons. It was quite a swell 
affair, the contracting parties being Mr. 
Johannes Kluchu, of Hamburg, Germany, 
and Miss Gustana Busch, daughter of Mr. 
Adolphus Busch, the great St. Louis lager 
beer brewer. The menu card, tied with 


14 <> 

blue favors, was an artistic production in 
the form of two hearts, and was much 
admired for its elegance and novelty: 

Consomme en tasses. 

Pates aux huttrcs. Sliced tomatoes. Cmcumbers.. 

Pompano. Potatoes, Duchesse. 

Haut Sauternes. 

Tenderloin of beef, aux truffes. 

French peas. 

Chateau Bnuillac. 

Terrapin, a la Maryland. 

Amontillado sherry. 

Punch it la Romaine. 

Bride’s cake. 

Srupe au cresson. Fresh asparagus. 

Mumm’s extra dry. 

Charlotte Russe. Assorted cakes. 

Veuve Cliquot. 

Roquefort cheese and hard crackers. 

Ice cream. Fruits. Coffee. 

Apollinaris water. 

GRAND WEDDING RECEPTIONS. 

“In the first place it is necessary, when 
receiving the order for the ‘wedding col¬ 
lation,’ to see the premises. The confec¬ 
tioner, chef, or contracting party must view 
the rooms. The shape of the drawing 
room or grand hall decides where the bride 
and bridegroom are to receive their guests.. 

“The parents of the ‘happy couple’ stand 
at the entrance of the room and receive 
the visitors as at a ball. The guests then 
pass on to the top of the room where a 
small raised dais is usually erected, covered 
with crimson cloth and snow-white wool 
or hair rugs. The bride is surrounded by 
her bridesmaids and pages on the left-hand 
side, and the groom by his best man, etc., 
on the right. The dais, chairs, steps, etc., 
are decorated with garlands of beautiful 
white flowers, such as edelweiss, azaleas, 
roses, stephanotis, jessamine, myrtle, vio¬ 
lets, picotees, nicotiana affinis, stocks, lili- 
umcandimum, narcissus, hyacinths, bou- 
vardia, etc., etc., which are all available, 
and, being pure white, are used, not only 
for the reception platform, with its ortho¬ 
dox three steps, but also for the stand or 
table on which the cake is placed to the 
left of the bride’s platform; and the 
wedding present table on the bridegroom’s 
right hand. If the presents are very 
numerous, boards and tressels are used, 
covered with velvet or plush and lace, 
generally guipure, to match the round or 
oval table on which the cake is placed. A 






150 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


bow-window, an alcove well lighted, or, if 
a square room, I have seen the hearth used 
for the recepiion, whilst a perfect bower of 
flowers, delicate fe; ns, and feathery green 
foliage was made over the pier glass, on 
the surface of the mantle slab, in the grate 
itself, and wreaths entwined like lattice 
work depended from the corners of the 
mantlepiece to the foot of the dais. 

“ A crimson cloth leads from the door to 
the reception platform. It throws up the 
beauty of the bride’s white dress, and 
should it be a widow remarried, with a 
lavender-gray dress, the effect is equally 
rich and beautiful. The two chairs, used 
during long receptions, are generally gilt, 
covered with crimson Utrecht velvet, pre¬ 
ferably, as being a dead color resting 
against the ivory satin or repp silk of the 
bride’s dress. If a white velvet train is 
worn, the caterer must have repp chairs, 
so that the contrast may be perfect. He 
has all this to consider and arrange. 

“Now for the Salle a Manger. Every¬ 
thing that is admissible at a high class ball 
supper is required here. The people who 
only offer sand * iches are ‘ enough to make 
a fellow wild,’ as Johnny Toole has it, and 
they are decidedly not bon ton , even if they 
offer their guests the forty varieties noticed 
by ‘En Route’ on Lang’s celebrated buffets. 
But a nos moutons. If more than one hun¬ 
dred guests are to be arranged for, form the 
buffets round three sides of the room, in 
the horseshoe shape, it will please the bride 
and her mother, the feminine deities of a 
household being peculiarly superstitious, 
deny the soft impeachment, if they can? 
But to the caterer these corners are useful. 
Raise a screen across each angle, pile vir¬ 
gin cork t® imitate rock work, also mosses, 
grasses, ferns, and flowers against it. They 
make nice places for your ‘wash-ups,’ and 
the storage of an ice safe or two, relays of 
pastry, fowls, etc., etc., and for urns of the 
larger size with tea, coffee, etc., which if 
near the displayed ices and jellies might 
do serious damage. At all fashionable and 
k la mode weddings there are two bride’s 
cakes. The 7 najor or best cake in the 


drawingroom and the minor in the refresh¬ 
ment room. From forty to fifty small 
tables are arranged with four seats to each, 
menu cards form the centre-piece. The 
prettiest I have seen were triangular, of 
white porcelain, headed with a cupid 
perched in a tree, and a slim fair maiden 
in robes of white, with cornflowers in her 
Leghorn hat, standing in a very pre-Ra- 
fliaelite field, with one of the archer god’s 
darts in her breast and her hand on it. 
Whilst an Adonis of, I must confess, rather 
dusky hue, and curly hair, was issuing 
from behind a tree. By the way, I may ao 
well here give the 

IMIIEItTTT- 


Caviare noir. Caviare de Norwege. 

Huitres. 

Pate de foie gras. 

Galantine de tete de veau. 

Terrines (Potted meats). 

Terrines de leveret. 

Et perigord, boeuf, faison, etc. 
Mayonnaise du saumon. 

Mayonnai e vert, blanc et jaune. 

Andouillettes, vol au-vents de creme de poulette* 
Crgme de veau, etc. 

Godivaux et quenelles. 

Langue de bceuf glace. Boeuf rSti et garni. 

Poulettes. Jambons de Yorke. 

Dindon roti et en galantine, chevreuil r6te. 

Pale de venaison. Pate de faisan. 

Faisan roti. Faisan k PIndienne. 
Mayonnaise de perdreaux. Pate de perdreaux. 

Florendines de lievre. Trophee de becasse. 

Pate de becasse. Pluviers en broche. 

Ortolans en aspic. Cailles en aspic. 

Aspics de poisson, de pigeon et de legumes. 

Pates des gibers. Salades. 

Patisseries. 

Puits d’amour. Meringues. Nougats. Gateaux. 

Creams. Jellies. Ices, etc. 

Wines. 

Champagne. Claret cup. Port. Sherry. 
Chablis. Liqueur d’Or. Liqueur chartreuse. 

Maraschino. Noyeau, pink and white. 
Punch and lovinv cup. 

Fruits, fresh and dried. Tea. Coffee, etc. 

“The arrangements of the buffet are in 
this wise. In the centre of the horseshoe 
table is the wedding cake, ornamented with 
a wreath of natural white flowers and green 
foliage of a light character round its base. 
The various tiers are dressed with group¬ 
ings of designs in sugar work, showing 
forth some Shakesperean love story; Ten- 
nysonian idyll; or groupings of historic 
scenes from the family history. The edges 
are piped in white, and the wreaths on the 
cake are of sugar work. If natural flowers 
are used they are not placed on the sugar 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


151 


work or icing direct, but in delicate vases, 
and the stems wrapped in damp cotton 
wool, as no water must touch the icing, 
and the flavor of flowers and plants do not 
add to the gout of the cake’s icing. There 
are usually stands of three tiers about four 
feet long, draped in crimson or pale blue 
sateen with lace valances, on which rest 
the lighter pastries, jellies, creams, etc., 
interspersed with groups of many-hued 
flowers in pots, together with bouquets, 
and stands of cut exotics, dpergnes of fruits. 
Trophies of game, fowl or sweets rests on 
the buffet itself, whilst between the four- 
feet tiers spaces are left wheie, behind the 
buffet, the carvers, in their spotless white 
dress and caps, are to be seen busily en¬ 
gaged, and their assistant servers, neatly 
dressed young women, handing the plates 
to the army of well-trained servants and 
waiters attending to the guests, who group 
themselves at the small tables or sit down 
at a long dining table in the centre of the 
room. 

“The rage just now is to have a high- 
class string quartette band playing really 
good chamber music, and not a few of dear 
old Abbe Lizzt’s pieces, Mendelssohn’s 
songs without words, music from the Mid¬ 
summer Night’s Dream, selections from 
Flotow, Gounod, etc., find their way into 
the programme of sweet sounds. The 
cake in the Salle a Manger is not supposed 
to be cut till the bride’s parents or sisters 
send it out to their absent friends and 
relatives. To dream on, eh? It is the cake 
in the reception room that receives the 
honor of distribution, and is partaken of 
with light wine at the reception.”— Cordon 
Bleu in British and Foreign Confectioner. 

WEDDING BREAKFASTS, AND THE PRICES 
CHARGED. 

[From the London Caterer .] 

Lent will soon be over, then comes the 
time when so many marriages are cele¬ 
brated, and as it has now become much the 
fashion to hold the wedding breakfast at 
some good hotel, I think it just possible I 
may be able to give some useful hints to 


the inexperienced hotel keeper by publish¬ 
ing menus of a few of the many wedding 
breakfasts I have had prepared, together 
with a short description of the table ar¬ 
rangements, number of guests present at 
each, and the charge per head. 

MENU NO. /. 

Consomme a la Victoria. 

Aspic of Prawns. Lobster Salad. 

Roast Fowls. Cumberland Ham. 

Roast Lamb. Pressed B. ef. 

Swiss Cake. Fruit Jellies. 

Strawberry Cream and Lemon Water Ices. 

Dessert and Bonbons. 

The above, as will be seen, was a very 
simple breakfast, as we w r ere restricted to 
price, 7s. 6d. ($2.00) per head, including 
half a pint of wine to each person. Sixteen 
sat down. The table, a long one, seating 
seven persons on either side and one at 
each end, was laid in the ladies’ coffee-room 
(kept private for the day), and was prettily 
decorated with a border of flowers, about 
one foot wide, just inside the plates; oppo¬ 
site the latter were sixteen rustic branches 
rising from the flower border, to support 
the menus , which were printed in silver on 
a white ground. A small cake, sent by the 
bride’s parents, was in the centre. The 
table-napkins were folded like tents, the 
bridegroom being an officer in the army. 

MENU No. 2. 

Consomme & la Nelson. 

Mayonnaise of Salmon. Lobster Patties. 

Lamb Cutlets and Green Peas. 

Capons Bechamel a la Belle Vue. 

Galantine of Veal. Game Pies. 

Italian Salad. 

Wine Jellies. Velvet Cream. 

Charlotte k la Parisienne. 

Chocolate and Strawberry Ices. 

Dessert and Bonbons. 

The above was served for twenty-four 
persons at 10s. 6d. ($2.50) per head, includ¬ 
ing a pint of wine for each person. The 
table, a long one, was laid in the ladies’ 
coffee-room, kept private as before. The 
cake, a very high one, was sent in by the 
bride’s friends. The bridegroom being a 
naval officer, we decorated the table with 
little satin flags, suggestive of a ship on 
some great holiday. From the cake (form¬ 
ing the centre or highest mast) depended 
twenty-four silk ropes, on which -were 
threaded the tiny flags. These were ter- 




152 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


minated by a china figure of a sailor boy 
holding the menu to each guest. The menu 
was very pale blue, printed in a deeper 
shade. The table-napkins folded like boats, 
and the most beautiful sea-weeds were 
mixed with the flowers. The effect was 
charming and gained me warm approbation 
from those who gave the breakfast. 

MENU No. 3. 

Palestine Soup. 

Pate de Foie gras en Aspic. 

Croustade de Ris de Veau. 

Mutton Cutlets a la Princesse. 

Lobster Salad. 

Petits Poulets bouilli a la CrSme. 

Pate a la Parisienne. 

Poulet Roti. Quartier d’Agneau. Quails. 

Creme aux Fraises. Gel£es. 

Pouding gla< e a la Nesselrode, Iced Gooseberry 
Fool, Dessert, and Bonbons. 

The above was served in the general 
coffee-room (kept private for the time). 
Thirty sat down. Charge, 12s. 6d. ($3 00) 
per head, including pint of wine. The 
table was T-shaped, a short table being 
placed at the upper end of the longer one. 
The cake, supplied by bride, was in centre 
of the long table, and the decorations were 
flowers in low, flat dishes, placed entirely 
round the principal joints, etc., and little 
china figures of children holding a small 
bouquet in one hand, the menu in the other, 
to each guest. The table-napkins were 
folded like a letter, held together by a sil¬ 
vered quill pen, menus the same, the bride¬ 
groom being a solicitor. 

MENU No. 4. 

Oysters. NouilleSoup. 

Aspic of Lobster. 

Fillets of Soles in Savoury Jelly. 

Fillets of Chicken, Tartar Sauce, 
Galantine of Veal. Boiled Fowls with Truffles. 

Roast Chickens. Ox Tongue. Pressed Beef. 

Partridges. Black Game. Grouse. 

Chartreuse of Fruit. Cold-water Jelly. 

Neapolitan Cakes. Fanchonettes. 
Compote of Peaches. Trifle. 

Apricot Cream and Orange-water Ices. 

Dessert and Bonbons. 

Forty-five sat down to the table. Charge, 
15s. ($ 3 - 75 ) P er head, including pint of 
wine to each. Long table, same as Nos. 1 
and 2; but in addition to the cake provided 
by the bride’s relations, and which formed 
the centre, we had six very handsome sil¬ 
ver dpergnes, and the flowers were fes¬ 
tooned right down the table, the cake and 


epergnes forming the supports. A pair of 
tinted doves were placed before each guest, 
one holding the menu in its beak, the other 
a few choice flowers. Table napkins folded 
like a large Lily of the Nile. 

MENU No. 3. 

Consomme a la Princesse. Puree & la Reine. 

Homard a la Victoria. 

Cailles farci aux Perigord. 

Mayonnaise de Volaille aux Olives. 

Timbale de Pigeons k la Gt-lee. 

Supreme de Volaille it la Jardiniere. 

Petits Bouche s aux Huitres. 

Cotelettes d’Agneau aux Cocombre. 

Langue de boeuf d’ecarlate. Poulet roti aux Cresson. 

Darne de Saumon a la Montpelli r. 

Pate de Gibier. Poulets bouilli a la Bechamel. 

Quartier d’Agneau. Dames dTIonneur. 
Compote d’Orange. Gelees k la Royal et d’Or. 

Genoise Glace. Creme aux Pafait d’Amour. 

Eau d’Ananas. CrSme aux Fraises. 

Dessert and Bonbons. 

Fifty sat down to the above. Charge, 
17s. 6d. ($4.25) per head, including pint of 
champagne to each person. The table was 
laid in the table d’hdte room, and was most 
beautifully decorated with flowers and 
many valuable articles of glass and plate 
lent by the families of the bride and bride¬ 
groom. Noticeable amongst these were 
fifty silver ornaments' including cupids, 
shepherds and shepherdesses, doves, and 
other birds, for holding the menus , which 
were of white satin, printed in bright blue, 
but very small type. Table-napkins folded 
in various shapes, so as to hold a small 
bouquet of flowers. 

MENU No. 6. 

Potage aux Kultres. Consnmm^ k la Royal. 

Salade d’Homard Monte. 

Pate de Foie Gras a la Gelee. 

Supreme de Volaille aux Truffes. 

Pate de Gibier a a Strasbourg. 

Roulades braise a la Royah . 

Mayonnaise de Saumon a la Montpellier. 

Petits Poulets aux Champignons. Quails. 
Gateaux k la Lome. Meringues au Cafe Mocha 

G< lees aux Ponche et d’Or. 

Fanchonettes a la Creme. 

Chocolate Cream and Cherry Water Ices. 

Dessert and Bonbons. 

The above was for twenty persons. 
Charge, 21s. ($5.00) per head, including 
pint of champagne to each person. This 
was served in a large private sitting-room, 
T-shaped table, charmingly ornamented 
with twenty little arches formed of flowers, 
under which stood a little alabaster figure, 
holding the menu opposite each guest. 
Arches were also formed over the principal 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


dishes, these being surmounted by tiny 
white and red satin flags, bearing the united 
monograms of the bride and bridegroom. 
The effect was exceedingly good, and 
gained a deal of praise. 

MENU No. 7 . 

Rotate de Gibier Clair. 

Petits Croustades aux Huitre®. 

Choux froid de Perdrix aux Truffes. 

C&telettes de Mouton a !a Proven 9 ale. 

Salades d’Homard & la Victoria. 

Mayonnaise de Volaiile aux Pois. 

Poulet aux Meriton. Jambon k l’Ecarlate. 
Langue de Bcenf Monte. Petits Poulets r6tis. 

Boeuf Braise. Coq de Bruyfere. 

Baba k la Polonaise. Lonidor de Raisins. 

Vetillc a Comfiture. Gateaux de Savoie. 

Vanilla Cream and Currant-water Ices. 

Dessert, Bonbons. 

The above was served for eighteen at 
21s. ($5.00) per head, including pint of 
champagne for each person. The table 
was a long one, with cake in the centre. 
Its entire surface was covered with flowers 
in low flat dishes between the different 
viands. The napkins were folded like 
artichokes, every fold being filled with 
flowers, so that each napkin looked like a 
bouquet. A miniature sword and gun were 
•crossed and placed upright before each 
guest, so as to support the menus , which 
were silver laid, made in the form of a 
shield, and printed in bold red type. 

MENU No. 8. 

Soup & la Reine. Asparagus Soup. 

Salmon, Sauce Hollandaise. Fidels of Soles. 

Oyster Patties. Quenelles of Chicken. 

Esca] lopes of Lark. Leveret Cutltts. 

Truffled Turkey. Russian Tongue. 

Roast Lamb. Spring chicken. 

Pigeons in Jelly. Terrine de Foie Gras. 

Quails. Lobster and Italian Salads. 

Smali Pastry. German Tart. Fruit Jellies. 

Vanilla Creams. Ice Pudding. 

Dessert and Bonbons. 

The above was served for twenty-eight 
persons at 25s. ($6.00) per head, including 
a pint of champagne for each. The table 
was a large square one, formed of four 
smaller ones placed together, so as to seat 
seven at each s de. The cake, a very large 
one, was placed in the centre, and a sloping 
bank made all round to come about eighteen 
inches on to the table. From this raised 
bank twenty-eight festoons of flowers de¬ 
pended, each terminating opposite a guest, 
and finished by a little cupid holding the 
menu , which was white satin bordered with 


a row of small pearls. The effect was 
charming, and, indeed, the table was pho¬ 
tographed for its beauty and the photos 
sold locally, the bridegroom being a public 
man and popular in the neighborhood. 

In all cases the entire service was of 
white china. The waiters wore white 
gloves during the breakfast. Crimson 
cloth was laid on the front steps and down 
to the carriages. A large drawing room 
was set apart for the guests to assemble in 
before breakfast, and bedrooms allotted for 
the ladies and gentlemen to leave their 
ha's, cloaks, etc., etc. 

I made a point to have everything ready 
long before the time required. All the 
dishes decorated the last thing with fresh 
flowers. Plenty of ice on the table, and a 
sufficient number of waiters (allowing one 
to five guests), with extra hands to carry 
to and from the rooms. No talking al¬ 
lowed amongst the servants, and a good 
supply of extra cutlery, glass, cloths, and 
anything else that might be wanted. Prob¬ 
ably in attention to these details may be 
found the chief reason why these enter¬ 
tainments passed off so successfully as 
they did. 

SOMETHING ABOUT THE COST. 

“ A dozen big suppers have been given 
this winter at a cost of $50 per person. 
The flowers at the famous Vanderbilt ball 
cost $12,000. The roses for Mrs. Bradley 
Martin’s dinner and cotillon cost $15,000. 
One hundred guests sat down to the din¬ 
ner. It cost $75 per person, inclusive of 
the flowers and the favors. The Living¬ 
ston ball and supper in Delmonico’s in 
January cost $30,000. 

“A dinner was given the other evening 
in one of he highly decorated apartments 
of an uptown hotel that cost $75 per plate. 
Nine guests sat down to this feast, which 
was worthy of Lucullus. Hand-painted 
menus, worthy of preservation as works 
of art, cost five dollars each. The cigars 
were specially imported from Havana with 
a brand prepared for the occasion. Many 
of the wines were specially ordered.” 







154 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK 


TEN DOLLARS PER PLATE. 

Press Club banquet at Delmonico’s; 250 
plates at $10.00 per plate, including wine: 

MENU. 


Sauternes Ire Huitres 

Sherry Pol ages 

Consomme a la Douglas 
Bisque d’Homards 
Varies Hors d’CEuvres Varies 
Timbales a la Reine 
Sauternes Ire Poisson 

Saumon de l’Oregon a la Nantaise 
Pommes de Terre Persiliade 
Pommery sec Releves 

Filets de Bceuf k la Montebello 
Choux de Bruxelles 
St. Julien Superieur Entrees. 

Poulardes Braisees a la Lyonnaise 
Croquettes de ris de veau 

Petits pois au buerre 

Haricots verts 

Sorbet a PImperial 
Macon Veaux R6ti 

Canvas-back Duck Salade de Laitue 
Entremets de Douceur 

Ponding aux Bananes 
Gauffres a la Cr6ine Gelee aux pistaches 
Liqueurs Pieces Mon tees 

Glaces Napolilaine Biscuit Diplomate 
Fruits Petits fours Cafe 
Cigares et Cigarettes 


for a first-class dinner and to fix their own 
charge per head. The charge was £1 5 S *» 
and the menu as follows: 


Chablis Clos, 
18S1. 

Amontillado. 

Marcobrunner. 

Moet et Chandon 

1SS0, 

Cuvee No. 300. 

Ch. Brown 
Cantenac, 1875. 

Fine 

Champagne. 

Porto. 


Huttres. 

Impdratrice. 

Saumon, Sauce Mousseline. 
Pommes Chateaubriand. 
Salade de Concombres. 
Blanchailles au Naturel et k la 
Diable. 

Coquilles de Crustaces k la Caf6 
Royal. 

Poulets de Printemps sautes 
k la Chasseur. 

Quartier d’Agneau, Sauce 
Menthe. 

Petits Pois. 

Pommes Rissol^es. 

Cailles bardees a la Casserole. 
Salade. 

Mousse k la Napolitaine glacee. 
Fromages. Dessert. 


TWO DOLLARS WITHOUT WINE. 

For dinners in private rooms the prices; 
vary. Here is the menu of a dinner at 7s.. 
6d. a head, given by the editor of a society 
paper to his staff of lady contributors: 


FIVE DOLLARS PER PLATE WITHOUT 
WINE. 

The Brooklyn Eagle , commenting on 
Dr. Parker, the now famed English 
preacher, says: “Dinner was his great 
meal, and it generally put him in a condi¬ 
tion of gentle torpidity for two hours after 
his encounter with it. But his other meals 
were by no means to be sneezed at. Here 
is one of his suppers, eaten at 11 o’clock at 
night in his rooms in the St. George. It 
is an average light meal for him. 


Green turtle soup for two.$1.00 

Fried smelts for two. 1.00 

Porterh use steak for two. 1.00 

One whole broiled chicken. 1.10 

Baked potatoes for two. 20 

Ice Cream for two. 40 


Total.$4.70 


SIX DOLLARS WITH WINE AT THE CAFE 
ROYAL, LONDON. 

For the man who wishes to entertain a 
party at dinner, and who can afford to dis¬ 
regard expense, the Royal offers exceptional 
advantages. We give the menu of a dinner 
for which the management were respon¬ 
sible. They were told to draw up a menu 


Consomme de Volaille k la Rosalie. 
Garbure li6. 

Filets de Soles a la Morney. 
Blanchailles au Naturel et a la Diable. 
Petits Ris en C'aisse aux Pointes d’Asperges. 
Pigeons de Bordeaux sautes a la Nicols. 
Quartier d’Agneau, Sauce Menthe. 
Pommes rissolees. 

Petits Pois. 

Pouh ts de Printemps. 

Jam bon d’YorK. 

Salade. 

Beignets de Pommes. 

Souffles au Chocolat glacis. 
Fromages. Dessert. 


A TEN-DOLLAR MEAL FOR FIVE DOLLARS. 

If you are a frugal man you will never 
go to the Brunswick or Delmonico’s alone.. 
Take your wife, your daughter or your 
sweetheart along, for in these establish¬ 
ments each portion served will be found 
sufficient for two, and each is intended for 
two. The extra service costs nothing. If 
you have no lady friend or relative in town 
take a gentleman along, and remember, if 
you are on terms of close intimacy with, 
him, that there is no impropriety in throw¬ 
ing out a gentle hint that the expense be 
borne equally by each. Your repast may 
cost you each a dollar, or it may cost ten 
dollars. Take, as an instance, this very 
general order: 

















THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


155- 


Roekaway oysters.$0.50 

California brook trout. 1.00 

Shoulder of lamb. 0.80 

Mallard duck. 1.50 

Bermuda potatoes. 0.25 

Celery. 0 40 

Asparagus. 0.60 

Champagne, quart bottle. 5.00 

Malaga grapes. 0.40 

Turkish coffee.. 0.20 

This sums up.$10.65. 


Give the waiter eleven dollars and ac¬ 
cept no change, otherwise he will be of¬ 
fended and will be sure to receive you 
with a scowl next time yon call. Your 
meal will thus cost you each five dollars 
and a half. There is no extra charge for 
occupying a private room, but you cannot 
have one unless your party is sufficiently 
large to fill it. The smallest of these 
rooms is intended to accommodate four 
persons. A costly display of ornamenta¬ 
tion is rarely made or desired for small 
parties. Regularly organized societies or 
clubs and associations of college graduates 
have the monopoly of these things, and 
the expense can be made light or heavy as 
the guests desire. A small fortune can be 
expended in a night on flowers, menus and 
souvenirs. 

DINNERS AT THIRTY DOLLARS. 

The chef at the Brunswick says that no 
dinner has recently been served at the 
establishment at which the cost per cover 
exceeded thirty dollars. In one instance 
the party consisted of forty ladies and 
gentlemen, who believe that the acme of 
human happiness is to sit perched aloft on 
a tally-ho as it rumbles over the highways. 
A bright and chatty waiter, employed in 
the place, said: “Dinners at thirty dollars, 
or even at twenty dollars, are as few and 
far between as those at seventy-five dollars. 
You will be about correct if you say a 
complete dinner with wine can be served 
to small parties for from twelve to fifteen 
dollars each, and for large ones at from 
eight to ten dollars each.” 

TEMPERANCE CATERING. 

“ Do you cater to the so-called temper¬ 
ance people?” asked the writer. 


“Yes, and while there is no wine served 
from bottles, we manage to introduce 
enough of it to make the company lively. 
There is mighty little inspiration to be ob¬ 
tained out of a glass of water, and that 
class of people knows this as well as we do. 
They don’t, as a rule, order us to fortify 
the viands with wine, but I notice that 
dishes which contain spirits aie usually 
selected from the bills of fare submitted" 
for their consideration. Roman punch is 
always acceptable to them and is jokingly 
called ‘the life-saving station’ of a tem¬ 
perance dinner. Fritters of fruits and 
vegetables having maraschino sauce is an¬ 
other temperance delight not often ob¬ 
jected to. 

“Terrapin may be good eating without 
a little sherry,” continued the caterer, “but 
I have never served it without adding 
sherry to it. Every one knows that it is the 
wine which improves its flavor. Terrapin 
is a very popular dish among so-called tem¬ 
perance diners. There are a variety of 
sauces which are served with meats that 
contain more or less wine. The one most 
favored at these temperance dinners is 
sauce Bordelaise. The electric pudding, 
so called because it is liberally charged 
with brandy, was invented by a temperance 
dinner-giver. Here are three of their bills 
of fare having tipsy parson pudding on. 
them. In desserts we can furnish an end¬ 
less variety of dainties well calculated to 
losen the tongues of temperance after-din¬ 
ner speakers. When you want to give 
that kind of a banquet come and see me.” 

TIPSY FRUIT AT A TEMPERANCE 
BANQUET. 

“The most notable anecdote of Hayes* 
administration seems to have been that 
relating to the device resorted to to turn 
the flank of Mrs. Hayes’ determination to 
allow no intoxicating beverages at her 
table. Mr. Evarts, Secretary of State, re¬ 
fused to permit the Diplomatic Corps to be 
invited to their customary annual dinner 
unless wine could be on the table. This 
Mrs. Hayes refused to allow; but the stew- 

















156 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ard managed to gratify those fond of some¬ 
thing stronger than lemonade. Among 
the delicacies on the table were an extra¬ 
ordinary number of oranges, and waiters 
were kept busy replenishing the salvers on 
which the tropical fruit lay. Glances 
telegraphed to one another that the miss¬ 
ing link was found, and that, concealed 
within the oranges was delicious frozen 
punch, a large ingredient of which was 
strong old Santa Croix rum. This phase 
of the dinner was named by those who 
■enjoyed it ‘the hfe-saving station.’ ” 

PROHIBITIONISTS AND FASHIONABLE 
COOKERY. 

There is no little stir among the prohi¬ 
bitionists who attended the great banquet 
at Martinelli’s the other night, for it has 
been discovered that brandy, wine, w'hite 
and red, and other liquors were served to 
them in disguise. The banquet was served 
in honor of Brother Demarest, their great 
leader. 

While no liquor was served as a bever¬ 
age, and not even Roman punch appeared 
in that part of the feast known as the life 
saving station, yet the discreet cooks had 
in other respects not been sparing of vari¬ 
ous forms of alcohol. For instance, in the 
mushroom sauce there was some fine old 
brandy, whose function in the sauce was 
to prevent it from fermenting. In the 
bisque of lobsters was some royal old 
sherry, placed there to prevent the lobster 
from settling to the bottom of the soup 
plates. 

One of the firm who run the establish¬ 
ment under Martinelli’s name said: 

“There is nothing so discouraging to a 
caterer as serving a series of prohibition 
spreads, and we w r ould not have taken that 
night’s order were it not for the fact that 
some of the gentlemen dine here occasion¬ 
ally and drink claret with Iheir meals. A 
caterer who serves many so-called prohibi¬ 
tion dinners somehow gets the reputation 
of not caring to serve fine dinners. Yet 
we are obliged to use liquors secretly, or 
our reputation is ruined. Every cook 


knows that a bisque of lobster must have 
wine in it to tone it up, and no cook ever 
lived who made a mushroom sauce to serve 
with meats without brandy or a heavy 
wine to keep it of the proper consistency. 

“ Now, had they paid $4 per plate for 
their dinner, we would have g ven them a 
temperance banquet that would have made 
their hair curl. First, we would give them 
mock turtle soup, which for a party of 
sixty would take four bottles of sherry to 
tone it up. Then we would give a baked 
striped bass, with sauce Bordelaise, which 
everybody knows contains a large amount 
of claret. Chicken Bearnaise would follow, 
and by this time the guests would begin to 
be communica’ive and begin to enjoy their 
dinner. We always serve Roman punch 
at these first-class prohibition feasts, but 
disguise it under another name and con¬ 
ceal the flavor of the rum or kirsch by 
strong vanilla and other flavors, but orange 
is the best flavor to use for this purpose. 
The name under which this punch is gen¬ 
erally served is punch cardinal. 

“Tipsy parson pudding is, strange as it 
may seem to you, the favorite dessert at 
these dinners. We soak the cake in sherry, 
then cover it with a rich custard sauce, 
and it takes like hot cakes on a frosty 
morning. The most acceptable cream is 
St. Honore. This contains a fine cordial- 
flavored cream surrounded with maca¬ 
roons, and these are surrounded with 
brandy cherries. As for cheese they pre¬ 
fer it mixed to a paste and moistened with 
brandy. This, when spread upon toasted 
crackers, is delightful. No one, prohibi¬ 
tionist or gourmet, can have a dinner which 
is worth eating in which liquor does not 
perform its function, open or concealed, 
and we never gave a temperance dinner in 
which brandy and wine were not used in 
cooking.” 

TOO RICH FOR HIS BLOOD. 

“The Major-General in charge of the 
militia here (San Francisco), after reading 
the interview which a reporter had with 
the captain of the salvation army, con- 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


157 


eluded that he ought to show him some 
military courtesies, and so invited him to 
dinner. ‘Hallelujah! How d’ye do?’ said 
the visitor on entering a fashionable res¬ 
taurant, in response to the invitation; and 
as he looked round and saw nothing but 
water on the table, he smiled approvingly. 
‘And you drink water, too, general?’ said 
the Salvationist. ‘Most frequently,’ was 
the reply. ‘ Here’s to your health, brother 
soldier!’ And the mundane and spiritual 
officers pledged each other. The first 
course was terrapin smip, with about a 
bottle of good old Madeira in it. It was a 
new dish to the Salvationist, and he bright¬ 
ened up considerably after the third plate¬ 
ful, and asked all about the habits of terra¬ 
pin. ‘Hallelujah! but it’s comforting and 
warming.’ ‘ Only a very plain repast,’ re¬ 
plied the M.-G., as the waiter brought on 
a roast hare with currant jelly and Bur¬ 
gundy sauce. ‘Delicious eating, a hare,’ 
said the captain, ‘and magnificent sauce 
this. We poor soldiers of the church sel¬ 
dom fare like this. Gimme some more 
sauce. And what exquisite coffee!’ he 
continued, as he swallowed a cup of black 
coffee with a glass of cognac in it, and 
passed it to the waiter to refill it. ‘So 
proud to meet a man like you, general, in 
this city! Such noble example! Going 
to write to headquarters to-night. Splendid 
omelette that, too, looks as if it had been 
on fire.’ ‘Try a preserved peach,’ said the 
general, helping his guest liberally to some 
brandied peaches; ‘they are very soothiug 
—and just one more cup of coffee before 
you go.’ ‘Hallelujah! general, don’t care 
if I do. Shay, genrul, dontyherfeel 
shleepy?’ And the good man bowed his 
head on the table, and was dreaming in 
three minutes that he was leading a cru¬ 
sade in Chicago and had converted 14,000 


gamblers. When he woke up he did not 
feel well, and his host was facing him, 
blowing a fragrant Havana. ‘ Accept my 
carriage home, captain,’ he said as he led 
him into a four-bit coupe and told the 
driver where to take him. The captain 
did not preach that night, and he has been 
wondering ever since whether there was 
not something queer about that coffee.” 

SARCASTIC, BUT SUGGESTIVE. 

“The caterer for the ball or dinner at the 
residence of the hosts often supplies all the 
linen and table ware, as well as the decora¬ 
tions and feast. The caterer generally has 
a large supply of the articles needed, from 
a dozen salt cellars to a large epergne, 
with accommodation for a miniature lake 
for live gold fish to disport in, and reaps a 
handsome profit from their hire on these 
occasions. He generally purchases these 
articles at auction, and keeps them in fine 
condition. He is chary about purchasing 
any silver or china with monograms, for 
the obvious reason that the initial would 
often prove embarrassing to many hosts. 
He does not object to the inscription 
‘Mother,’ or ‘From Father,’ because that 
would be applicable in almost every case, 
excepting that of a bachelor. His bonanza 
is silver-ware containing a crest. He al¬ 
ways finds that such pleases his hosts. 
The caterer takes entire charge of the cu¬ 
linary arrangements and the preparation 
of the table, supplying the servants and 
superintending the service as well. He 
transports his wares in specially constructed 
boxes, takes his gripsack, prepared for any 
change in the weather, and the business is 
so well systematized that there are ordi¬ 
narily no hitches or mistakes. Often the 
family table ware, linen and china are not 
used.” 





Stewarding and Catering on a Grand Scale. 


STEWARDING AT HARVARD UNIVERSITY. 

The boarding of the Harvard students 
is managed on the co-operative plan by a 
“Harvard Dining Association,” which is 
like the “house committee” of many clubs, 
but on a larger basis, the different classes 
and schools being represented on the 
“ Board of Directors,” which is composed 
of fifteen students and is the executive 
body which engages the steward, second 
steward and headwaiter. 

This “house committee” of fifteen, 
standing in the posidon of the hotel-keeper, 
has the task to perform of setting a good 
table at the lowest possible rate, the stu¬ 
dents under this arrangement being fur¬ 
nished with board at its actual cost, and 
the price consequently flunctuates accord¬ 
ing to the running expenses from $3 90 to 
$4.20 a week. The tnemi of the three 
meals is: 

BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. Cracked Wheat. 

Fried Cod. 

Mutton Chops. Eggs. 

Lyonaise Potatoes. 

Griddle Cakes. Hot Rolls. Toast. Coffee. Tea. 


LUNCH. 

Chicken Soup. 

Cold Corned Beef. Cold Ham. 
Oatmeal. Cracked Wheat. 
Pumpkin Pie. Minco Pie. Cheese. Cocoa. 


DINNER. 

[Sample > changed daily .] 

SOUP. 

Macaroni. 

FISH. 

Boiled Cod. 

ROAST. 

Beef. Chicken. Lamb. 

ENTREES. 

Beef a la mode. 

VEGETABLES. 

Boiled potatoes. Mashed Potatoes. 

Lima Beans. Turnips. Hominy. 

DESSERT. 

Steamed Apple Pudding. 

Apples. Oranges. 


In addition to the regular table d'hote 
there is an order list k la carte , comprising 
all the luxuries of a first-class restaurant. 
From this anything will be served at any 
meal for a reasonable extra charge; all the 
bills are settled thrice a vear at the conclu- 

id 

sion of each term. The order list is a most 
wise provision, for, while it enables one to 
entertain a friend in an eminently satis¬ 
factory manner, it causes the luxuriously 
inclined to lower the price of living to the 
more economical—in other words, if the 
restaurant makes a profit it lessens the 
price of board to all. 

Breakfast is served from 7.30 to 8.30, 
with a table for orders only until 10 a. m.; 
lunch occupies the hour between 12.30 and 
1.30, and the dinner hour is from 4.30 to 
5.30 in winter and half an hour later in 
summer. It will be observed that the late¬ 
ness of the dinner hour gives the college 
athletes a fine hygienic opportunity to 
exercise on something other than a full 
stomach. 

The salaried officers are the steward* 
assistant steward and headwaiter. Under 
them are eight cooks, sixty waiters and 
twenty-five other servants. The number 
of members at present, six hundred and 
sixty. As might be imagined that number 
of healthy men are heartier eaters than the 
average patrons—and matrons—of hotels. 
There are stowed away daily in the cavern¬ 
ous aggregate collegiate maw one hundred 
and seventy gallons of milk and five bush¬ 
els of apples, besides about three hundred 
pies. It is humiliating to confess that all 
the wealth of Cambridge intellect cannot 
educate the American youth above pie, 
but the fact must remain. 

The steward and auditor make their 
statements every two months. The ap¬ 
pended copy of these sheets for the months 
of January and February will give per¬ 
haps a clearer insight than mere words 
into the financial workings of this emi¬ 
nently succesful co-operative organization: 
1158 ) 














THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


159 


Dr. 

Dills paid (less water bill).. 

Water charge. 

Interest on debt. 

Interest on advances. 

Reduction of debt. 

Insurance.. 

Crockery assessment. 

Allowance for absence, etc 
Stock on hand (Jan. i). 


Cr. 

Stock on hand (March i). 

Sale of grease.. 

“ swill. 

“ bones. 

“ cold food, etc. 

Gas and coal for Saunders’ Theatre 

Extras ordered. 

Crockery charged to surplus. 

Balance... 


$19,675.61 
,. 48-87 

• 539-42 
” 3-77 

• 333-34 

. 50.00 
. 200.40 

,. 544.20 

• 2,300.59 


$24,155.90 

-$ 2 , 533-57 
.. 317.91 

68.87 
67.S6 
.. 198.96 

53-95 
-• C5J9-95 
57 - 7 i 
■ • 19 , 337-32 


$24,155-9° 


opened and closed upon 100,000 buckwheat 
cakes, 10,000 bananas, 30,000 oranges and 
lemons, and 32,000 clams. They further 
diminished the resources of the country by 
swallowing 84,000 pounds of fresh meats, 
8,000 pounds of smoked meats, nearly 5,000 
pounds of turkeys, over 4,000 pounds of 
chickens, nearly as many of fish, 141 gal¬ 
lons of oysters, 14,000 pounds of butter, 
95,000 quarts of milk, 25,000 pounds of 
sugar (whence their unusual sweetness), 
and 1,000 bushels of potatoes. Add to this 
tea and coffee, condiments, fruits, vege¬ 
tables, sweet-meats, and surreptitious 
luncheons, and the total becomes positively 


Dividing this balance of $19,337.32 by 


colossal. 


If this rate of consumptions 


5,010, the number of weeks, or students, 


increases. 


or even continues, it will be 


gives $3.86; adding head money, 10 cents, 
gives $3.96, or say $4.00 as the cost of 
board during January and February. An 
analysis of this charge of $3.96 gives the 


expedient to have the daily food purchases 
of Vassar included in the market reports 
of the country for the sake of their effect 
upon prices.” 


following result: 


Provisions. 

Service. 

Coal. 

Water. 

Gas. 

Breakage. 

Interest. 

Reduction of debt. 

Repairs. 

Allowance for absence 
Miscellaneous. 


Head money 


Jan. and Feb. Per week. 


$12,413.30 

$ 2-47 ^ 

- 3 , 547-91 

7 i 


oS 


01 

• 365 - 3 ° 

°7 K 

200.40 

°4 

653 -I 9 


. 333-34 

°7 

211.21 

04 , 

.. 544.20 

10% 

219.42 

°4 

$ 19 , 337-32 

$3.86 


10 


$3.96 

The head money, let me briefly explain, 
is given to the steward when the average 
weekly amount is small—as it enlarges the 
head money is reduced—virtually giving 
him a bonus for economy. 

STEWARDING AT VASSAR COLLEGE. 

“We have no patience with those jour¬ 
nals which indulge in ungallant remarks 
and ribald laughter over the annual state¬ 
ment of what the sweet Vassar girls have 
been eating during the school year. The 
figures presented by the board of trustees 
grow more and more serious year by year, 
and the statistics for 1886-87, now at hand, 
are simply appalling. To begin with, the 
dear, delicate creatures consumed 230 bar¬ 
rels of flour. Their small white teeth 


STEWARDING AT WINDSOR CASTLE. 

“The holidays bring a wealth of work for 
the cooks at Windsor. The kitchen, on 
the north side of the castle, is fitted elabo¬ 
rately enough to delight the heart even of 
a Careme. The apartment is nearly fifty 
feet in height, and has an enormous fire at 
either end, with a system of spits after the 
fashion of university kitchens. As an 
ordinary staff there are the chef de cuisine, 
two master cooks, two yeomen of the 
month, two roasting cooks, two larderers, 
five scourers, one steam man and three 
kitchen maids, besides apprentices and 
serving men. The number of dinners 
that can be cooked in this kitchen is 
simply marvelous. Every detail of the 
arrangements is worked out with the 
greatest of care, the dishes being handed 
straight to the footmen from the cooks, 
and by them conveyed to the various 
rooms.” 

STEWARDING AT A PENITENTIARY. 

“ The provisions required for the dinner 
given, the convicts at Joliet, Ill., on 
Thanksgiving were 1,700 pounds of 
dressed turkey, 60 gallons of turkey dress- 








































160 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ing, So gallons of gravy, 30 bushels of 
potatoes, 6 barrels oi flour, 5 bushels of 
onions, 200 gallons of coffee, 16 gallons of 
milk, 85 pounds of sugar, 40 pounds of 
English currants, 120 pounds of butter, 30 
gallons of syrup, 15 barrels of apples, 3,200 
cigars. Each of the married gaurds was 
given a turkey.” 

STEAMSHIP STEWARDING. 

“The Atlantic steamship City of New 
York is commanded by Capt. Frederick 
Watkins, and his right hand man, the chief 
officer, is S. F. Barff. To help these two 
to navigate the ship six deck officers are 
provided, and three of them are constantly 
on deck when at sea. In addition to these, 
in what may be called the department of 
seamen, there is a boatswain and his mate 
and 36 sailors, of whom 12 men are called 
quartermasters, who are detailed to steer 
the ship and stand on lookout. 

“ Mr. McLeod, the chief steward, is as¬ 
sisted by Mr. Findlow, formerly steward of 
Jay Gould’s yacht Atalanta, and by 146 
other people, of whom seven are women 
and eight are boys in their teens, called 
bell boys. Mrs. Nichol is the chief stew¬ 
ardess, and four women help her in the 
first cabin. The second cabin and the 
steerage have one stewardess each. Of 
the other people in this department 36 are 
table waiters, 16 are bedroom stewards 
and attend to keeping staterooms in order, 
10 are occupied in the pantry, 16 are cooks, 
6 are porters, 5 are messroom stewards 
and wait on the officers, 14 are in the 
second cabin, 16 are in the steerage, 4 are 
bakers, three are butchers, and 5 are store¬ 
keepers, and this term includes the barten¬ 
ders and the men in immediate charge of 
the rooms where provisions, etc., are kept. 

“ There is also a ship’s carpenter, who is 
generally as handy aloft as with the saw 
and adze. In charge of the machinery are 
a chief engineer, Mr. McDaugall, and 27 
assistant engineers, besides 2 electricians 
and their 3 assistants, who look after the 
electric lights; 3 donkey men, 31 lead¬ 
ing firemen, 54 firemen, 63 trimmers, and 


one blacksmith. The donkey men are 
foremen in charge of the boilers; the 
leading firemen are also called greasers, 
and it is their duty to keep the machinery 
oiled and cleaned. The 54 firemen shovel 
coal into the furnaces and se that it is 
spread just right to burn as hot as possible, 
and when the furnace needs cleaning they 
do the work. The trimmers shovel the coal 
from the bunkers into the stoke hole. 

“While this completes the list of the 
three great departments into which a ship’s 
company is divided, there is yet a purser, 
who is a keeper of accounts, besides 
having a lot of other important duties to 
attend to, and the ship’s surgeon, who has 
one assistant. The number of stewards 
carried varies with the passenger traffic. 
The total number of crew of the City of 
New York when she sailed was, according 
to the purser, 394. 

“Few persons are aware of the extensive 
nature of the victualling on board the 
great ocean steamers. Each vessel is provi¬ 
sioned as follows for the round voyage for 
passengers and crew: 3,500 lbs. of butter, 
3,000 hams, 1,600 lbs. of biscuits, exclusive 
of those supplied for the creAv; 8,ooo lbs. of 
grapes, almonds, figs, and other dessert 
fruits; 1,500 lbs. of jams and jellies; tinned 
meats, 6,000 lbs.; dried beans, 3,000 lbs.; 
rice, 3,000 lbs.; onions, 5,000 lbs.; potatoes, 
40 tons; flour, 300 barrels; and eggs, 1,200 
dozen. Fresh vegetables, dead meat and 
live bullocks, sheep, pigs, geese, turkeys, 
ducks, fowls, fish, and casual game are 
generally supplied at each port, so that 
it is difficult to estimate them. Probably 
two dozen bullocks and 60 sheep would be 
a fair average for the whole voyage, and 
the rest may be inferred in proportion. 
During the summer months, when travell¬ 
ing is heavy, 25 fowls are often used in 
soup for a single dinner. 

“ The bar on an ocean vessel is one of 
the most profitable features of the ship, 
and it has been said that $5,000 has fre¬ 
quently been cleared on one voyage by a 
first-class steamer in the busy season. The 
possibilities in this direction may be judged 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


161 


from the fact that the Etruria puts on 
board at Liverpool for the round voyage 
i,ioo bottles of champagne, 850 bottles of 
claret, 6,000 bottles of ale, 2,500 bottles of 
porter, 4,500 bottles of mineral water and 
650 bottles of various spirits, while the 
annual consumption of the Cunard Line is 
as follows: 8,030 quarts and 17,613 pints of 
champagne, 13,941 quarts and 7,310 pints of 
claret, with 9,200 bottles of other wines, 
489,344 bottles of ale and porter, 174,921 
bottles of mineral waters, 34,000 bottles of 
spirits, 34,360 pounds of tobacco, 63,340 
cigars and 56,875 cigarettes. 

THE PURCHASING STEWARD OF A LARGE 

HOTEL. 

The following was one day’s marketing, 
bought before and about sunrise, for the 
Fifth Avenue Hotel, New York; a fair 
example of the daily purchases, making 
allowance for fluctuations of business at 
different seasons: 

8 loins beef. 

4 ribs beef. 

2 hips beef. 

1 rump corned beef. 

7 calves’ heads. 

88 pounds veal. 

2 old turkeys. 

20 young turkeys. 

57 pounds chickens. 

55 pounds lobsters. 

23 pounds bluefish. 

55 pounds Spanish mackerel. 

10 barrels potatoes. 

2 barrels sweet potatoes. 

3 barrels cabbage. 

1 y z barrels spinach. 

1 barrel cooking apples. 

93 pounds grapes. 

4 legs mutton. 

6 mutton racks. 

12 racks lamb. 

1 lamb. 

40 kidneys. 

7 doz. sweetbreads. 

2 pairs mongrel ducks 

2 doz. woodcocks. 

2 doz. partridges. 


20 pounds sea bass. 

29 pounds soles. 

28 pounds salmon. 

i'/z bags Lima beans. 

1 bushel beets. 

4 boxes tomatoes. 

325 ears corn. 

doz. bunches celery. 

1 doz. egg plants. 

1 dozen cucumbers. 

2 boxes lemons. 

Parsley, mint and soup vegetables. 

All supplies brought to basement and 
carefully weighed before putting away. 
Groceries bought monthly, except coffee 
and tea which are procured whenever an 
opportunity for a good bargain is offered. 

THE AMERICAN GAME LIST. 

For nearly thirty years an annual game 
dinner has been given by Mr. John B. 
Drake, proprietor of the Grand Pacific 
Hotel, Chicago. The number of guests is 
usually 500, and they are attended at table 
by 100 waiters. For weeks and even 
months before the event measures are put 
in operation to get together every possible 
species of game, the result being as is 
shown in the subjoined bill of fare, which 
is a very good game list for stewards and 
restaurateurs to consult for available kinds. 
This occurred a few years back, when elk 
and buffalo were still obtainable; the list is 
slightly more voluminous than more re¬ 
cent ones, and the more useful for refer¬ 
ence to so many kinds. 

“ To name the people present would be 
only to give a list of the most prominent 
and the wealthiest of Chicago’s citizens 
and of the distinguished guests now stop¬ 
ping at this hotel: ” 

avriEitTTT- 

Blue Point Oysters in Shell 
Soup. 

Consomme de Vollaile au Praire Game 
Fish. 

Broiled Whitefish Baked Red Snappei 


Boiled. 

Ham of Black Bear Wild Turkey 
Leg of Mountain Sheep Buffalo Tongue. 
Venison Tongue 









162 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


Roast, 

Saddle of Mountain sheep Leg of Black Tail Deer 
Loin of Buffa o Leg of Elk 
Saddle of Antelope Coon Opossum 
Loin of Venison Jack Rabbit Mountain Bison 
Wild Turkey Pin Tail Grouse Ruffled Grouse 
Virginia Partridge Golden Plover 
American Woodcock Killdeer Plover 

Sand Hill Crane Wilson Snipe Canada Goose 
Mallard Duck Pin Tail Duck Gadwall Duck 
American Widgeon B ue-winged Teal 
Green-winged Teal Shoveler Duck Wood Duck 
Scaup Duck Red Head Duck Ruddy Duck 
Woodchuck Canvas-back Duck 
Buffle-Head Duck Cormorant Duck Dusky Duck 
Brant Quail Red Bill Merganser Duck 
Carolina Dove Ring-necked Duck 
Hooded Merganser Duck Spruce Grouse 
American Coot Long Tail Duck Partridge 
Red-necked Grebe Prairie Chicken Pheasant 
Butter-Ball Dack 


HUNTER'S HOME ON THE RANCH. 


Broiled. 

Red-winged Starling Reed Bird Gray Snipe 
Blue-winged Teal Fox Squirrel 
Gray Squirrel Black Squirrel Grav Rabbit 
Jack Snipe Golnen Plover Partridge Quail 
Least Sandpiper Butter-Ball Duck 
Prairie Chicken Pheasant Dunlin Sandpiper 

Baked Sweet Potatoes Mash d Potatoes 
Sweet Corn Green Peas Celery Plain Potatoes 
Stewed Tomatoes 


Ornamental Dishes. 

Pyramid of Game, en Bellevue 

Red-winged Starling, au Natural 
Aspic of Birds, k la Royale 

Pattie of Liver, sur Socle 

Boned Quail in Plumage 
Galantine of Turkey, with Jelly 

Pin-Tail Grouse, in Feathers 

Boned Snipe, with Truffles 
Shrimp Salad 


THE TWO PETS. 


Entrees. 

Buffalo Steak, Mushroom Sauce 
Stuffed Venison, Hunter Style 
Salmi of Grouse, Port Wine Sauce 
Squirrel, Braise, Sauce Diable 
Deer’s Tongues, Boule, Caper Sauce 
Frogs, fried, Camp Style 
Pheasant, larded, aux Champignons 
English Hare, with Dumplings 

Charlotte Russe Chocolate Eclairs 
Chocolate a la Cr6me 
Chantilly Cream, a la Printanifere 
Bonbons, assorted Fancy Cake Nougat Pyramids 


SONG. 

“The Wanderer's Return'' ... Abt. 
By the Blaney Quartette. 


Apples Oranges Pears California Grapes 
Concord Grapes Catawba Grapes Nuts Figs 
Raisins Vanilla Ice Cream Pineapple Sorbet 
Sage Cheese English Cheese Coffee 


SONG. 

“ The Gay Pilgrim - - - Mangold. 

LUNCH FOR 5,600 PEOPLE. 

“ Mr. William H. Somers, proprietor of 
the West Shore restaurant at Syracuse, 


was called on Sunday last to cater to the 
appetites of 5,600 hungry travelers, en route 
to the Odd Fellows’ meeting at Boston. 
They arrived in detachments of two to five 
hundred during the afternoon at intervals 
of half an hour, and were all promptly 
cared for. A local paper says that ‘Mr. 
Somers, in anticipation of the event, had 
ordered the waiters and cooks all along 
the line of the West Shore to report for 
duty here. He had 225 people under his 
command, and so perfect were the arrange¬ 
ments that all moved like clock work. The 
service of a hot dinner was out of the 
question, but the tables were neatly spread 
with dainty white cloths and set with un¬ 
impeachable knives, forks and crockery, 
delicately cut, but substantial slices of cold 
meats, together with the usual accompani¬ 
ment of bread and butter, besides fruit, 
tea and coffee. The stock of eatables con¬ 
sisted of 2,000 pounds of beef, 1,500 pounds 
of chicken, 2,000 pounds of ham, 1,000 
quarts of milk, 2,000 loaves of bread, 500 
pounds of fresh pork, four barrels of lamb 
tongue, 3,000 sandwiches, and 2,000 pounds 
of grapes.’ About 1,000 bottles of beer 
and spirits and $125 worth of cigars were 
sold.” 

THE AMERICAN CLAM BAKE. 

“Mr. Sol. Sayles, the well-known butcher 
of Sixth avenue, gave his annual clam bake 
to his sixty odd employes at his country 
seat, Eleanor Villa, beautifully situated at 
LongView, on the Raritan River, N. J., 
on Sunday afternoon. A special train of the 
New Jersey Central Railroad conveyed the 
guests, who numbered, including the em¬ 
ployes, no persons, to Plainfield, the near¬ 
est station, where they were met by car¬ 
riages in waiting and conveyed over a de¬ 
lightful road to the grove in which the feast 
was prepared under the guiding hands of J. 
C. Shields, who, as the steward of the Glen 
Island restaurants for several seasons, has 
justly earned a reputation as a constructor 
of toothsome Rhode Island clambakes. At 
4 o’clock the feast was ready, and ample 
justice was done to it under the appetizing 














THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


163 


zest imparted by the long drive in the brac¬ 
ing air. The bake was composed of one 
thousand hard and soft clams, 50 lobsters, 
150 ears of corn, 50 bluefish, 50 white bass, 
2 bushels of white potatoes, 2 buseels of 
sweet potatoes, 75 spring chickens, 150 
hard crabs, 100 pounds of tripe and 75 
watermelons. Flanking this steaming 
pyramid were 200 bottles of iced cham¬ 
pagne. When the feast was concluded 
Patch photographed the entire group on 
the lawn.” 

HOW IT IS DONE. 

“ A hole, some four feet deep, is dug in 
the ground, and smooth flat stones are 
laid on the bottom; on these a fire of wood 
is kindled, which is kept up half a day or 
more, until the stones are of a red heat. 
Then several bushels of clams in the shell 
are poured over the stones, and on these 
are laid a layer of seaweed. Indian corn 
in the ear is placed, in quantity propotion- 
ate to the number of bushels of clams, 
upon this; then follows another layer of 
seaweed, and more clams, then a few dozen 
chickens prepared for cooking; then 
another layer of seaweed and more clams; 
potatoes in their jackets come next, 
although some put the potatoes in an 
anterior stratum, and more clams. Any 
game in season may be added, and the top 
layer is always seaweed, preceded by 
more clams. In Rhode Island turkeys 
are deemed the essential layer late in the 
autumn. The heat evolved from the 
stones and retained from the fire in the 
sides of the pit, and the steam rising from 
the seaweed, serve to slowly and thor¬ 
oughly cook each and every layer in about 
two hours, and then they are deftly taken 
out and served on long tables, with much 
care and neatness. The choicest wines 
accompany the feast, although cider is the 
common drink of the people. The service 
is scarcely in regular courses, as the tooth¬ 
someness of the repast lies in the fact that 
the juices are so assimilated and interpene¬ 
trated by the mode of cooking that the 
guests desire not to stand upon the order 


of their eating, but take in thankfulness 
that which is set before them, with one 
proviso—that the supply of clams be 
endless.” 

THE AMERICAN BARBECUE. 

It is commonly called roasting oxen or 
other animals whole; the word itself is 
French barb-a-que —from head to tail—but 
in practice so many disappointments occur 
through the meat coming from the bars 
burnt to a coal on the outside and too raw 
to be eaten inside, that those who have had 
experience take care to roast only quarters 
or sides. The way it is done is the same 
in the beginning as the clam bake; a trench 
is dug in the ground and a wood fire made 
in it. When it has burned about six hours 
and the pit bottom is covered with a bed 
of glowing coals and red hot rocks, instead 
of the covering up in sea weed as at the 
clam bake, some bars of iron are laid across 
the pit, making a monster grid-iron. Per¬ 
haps the iron can be obtained from the 
village blacksmith, or some old rails from 
the railroad, or two or three rails and small 
iron for cross-bars. Whole sheep and 
lambs can be roasted very well over such 
a bed of coals, also small pigs, chickens, 
’possums, turkeys and such small animals, 
but oxen are better cut in quarters, as in 
that case it does not take more than an 
hour or two to cook them sufficiently. Oc¬ 
casions requiring a resort to the barbecue 
are constantly arising, either political or 
otherwise, for anniversaries, camp meet¬ 
ings, celebrations of various descriptions, 
and it only needs the trench to be dug the 
longer to give cooking facilities in the 
meat line to an indefinite extent; the bread 
is easily baked at a distance and hauled to 
the spot. But the great trouble experienced 
generally is to get the provisions divided 
among the people after the cooking; if this 
is not well managed two or three persons 
will drag a quarter of beef from the fire 
into the dust of the ground, hack off their 
few slices and leave the rest in such a con¬ 
dition that it is almost if not quite lost. 
Some well intended barbecues for army 




164 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


reunions and monument raisings and the 
like have become hideous failures through 
such want of management. There must 
be a fence around the barbecue fire and 
another around the benches to eat from, 
and proper arrangements made for cutting 
up and passing around the meat after it is 
cooked, if suffering to the invited multitude 
and life-long reproach to the providers are 
to be averted. 

THE IMPROVED BARBECUE. 

Barbecues have taken place in late years 
where oxen were actually roasted whole and 
made superior as roasted meat to the prod¬ 
uct of city kitchens by fastening the entire 
carcasses on iron spits on frames with band- 
wheel fixtures, and revolving them horizon¬ 
tally by means of a small portable steam 
engine over the heated pits of coals until 
done. In one case recorded when the ox 
was considered sufficiently done it was 
moved by means of a crane to a table where 
six skillful carvers were ready with extra 
large knives and forks, and cut it up and 
distributed it in a proper manner. 

THE PRIMITIVE BARBECUE. 

“Messrs. Codv and Salsbury, of the 
American Wild West Show, invited a num¬ 
ber of their friends recently to an Indian 
‘rib-roast’ breakfast,at which the principal 
item that figured upon the ‘bill of rations’ 
consisted of ribs of beef roasted, served, 
and partaken of in the primitive Indian 
style as follows: A hole is dug in the 
ground, a wood-fire lighted therein, and 
over this is suspended from a tripod the 
huge sides of beef; these are kept moving 
by a squaw or scout for three-quarters of 
an hour, at the end of which time the joint 
is sufficiently done, and resembles a bunch 
of ‘devilled bones.’ Each ‘brave’ squatted 
upon the ground on a carpet of loose straw 
was provided with a sharp stake stuck into 
the earth in front of him, and a goodly por¬ 
tion of the roasted ribs, which, when not 
engaged in biting the meat off the bone 
held in h s hands, he stuck on to the sharp 
stake, which thus took the place of a plate. 


He then licked his fingers clean, and wiped 
them dry on his hair. The majority of the 
guests adopted the Indian manner of eating 
the meat—bar the licking-finger perform¬ 
ance, as a substitute for which table-napkins, 
etc., were provided. The meat was said to 
be so toothsome, that an eminent English 
legislator present expressed his opinion 
thereon to the effect that ‘ civilization was 
a well-intentioned mistake.’ The rest of 
the menu was American, viz., grub-steak, 
salmon, roast-beef, roast-mutton, ham, 
tongue, stewed chicken, lobster salad, 
American hominy and milk, corn, potatoes, 
cocoanut-pie, apple-pie,Wild West pudding, 
American pop-corn and peanuts, which, 
with other etceteras, ended this unusual 
form of entertainment.” 

AN ELECTRIC LIGHTED BARBECUE. 

“Over four thousand persons, from the 
neighborhoods and towns of both High 
and Low Harrogate, assembled and. took 
part in the proceedings, which were, from 
beginning to end, conducted in a successful 
manner. To commence with, a splendid 
red and white four-year-old ox was pur¬ 
chased by Mr. Samson Fox, and fed by Mr. 
Stephen Bradley in a field adjoining his 
residence. Here it became an object of much 
curiosity and comment amongst the town- 
folks, who watched it graze with eager in¬ 
terest in anticipation of roast beef ad libitum 
in the near future. Upon the eventful day, 
Mr. M. Church, chef at the Queen Hotel, 
superintended the cookery arrangements, 
and succeeded to perfection; for, as Mr. 
Fox (the spirited gentleman who liberally 
came forward to defray all expenses) after¬ 
wards said, * the ox had been as w r e!l roasted 
as though it h^d been done in separate 
pieces.’ 

The animal was slaughtered, dressed, and 
duly fixed upon the spit of solid iron, re¬ 
volved by steam power at the rate of about 
three limes a minute. Two huge fires were 
employed—one stationary, and the other 
movable. A barricade was erected around 
the ox, and, although it was not ultimately 
called into use, a buitable covering was- 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


165 


provided to guard against inauspicious 
weather. A powerful dynamo illuminated 
the whole scene with the electric light dur¬ 
ing the hours of dusk and night, and sounds 
of revelry (music and dancing) contributed 
to the enjoyment of all, whilst the ox was 
kept constantly revolving throughout the 
night. 

At noon on Tuesday, the 21st June, the 
cutting up and serving out of the animal 
was inaugurated by the committee, who 
mounted a wagon placed alongside of the 
roasted ox on its spit. Five carvers were 
told off, and each one received a huge 
carving knife and fork, specially made for 
the occasion. After a brief but appropriate 
speech from Mr. Fox, three cheers were 
given and each carver made a primary in¬ 
cision; and then followed up quickly the 
division, presumably along the principal 
lines of the six-and-thirty usual ‘joints,’ 
and the slicing off of the tit-bits. 

About 4,000 pieces of meat, buns, and 
tickets for beer were rapidly distributed 
amongst the guests ranged around the 
‘festive board,’ and as daylight waned the 
dynamo once more shone forth upon a 
scene of innocent revelry, ‘where all went 
merry as a marriage bell.’” 

HOW AN OX WAS BOILED WHOLE. 

“A correspondent of the Times mentions 
an experiment, rare, if not unprecedenled, 
which was tried on Jubilee Day at Liss, a 
village on the London and South-Western 
Railway in Hampshire. It consisted in 
boiling a bullock whole, in addition to one 
roasted the evening before. A hole, dug 
in the ground, was built over with bricks; 
into the latter was built a tank, and into the 
tank was lowered the carcase, placed within 
a case formed by iron bars, to which chains 
were attached. Pulleys from a scaffold im¬ 
mediately above raised and lowered the ox, 
of which the head and carcase were sewn 
up separately in strong canvas. Carrots 
were boiled with it, and potatoes enclosed 
in bags, making gallons of rich soup. At 
5:30 p. m. the carcase, which had been 
boiled about seven hours, was raised from 


the tank; two bands playing ‘ God save the 
Queen ’ and ‘Rule Brittannia’ on the scaf¬ 
folding above. The meat was pronounced 
excellent, and was certainly well cooked.” 

THE NUMBER, WEIGHTS AND PRICE—A 
POUND TO A PERSON. 

“ The energetic proprietor of the White 
Horse Hotel, Romsey, and the Tregonwell 
Arms, at Bournemouth, recently carried 
out a large job in the catering line. On the 
occasion of the great Liberal F£te at Tem- 
plecombe, oh the 1st inst., he was entrusted 
with the purveying for the Bournemouth 
Division, consisting of some 3,000 persons, 
each one of whom was to be supplied with 
8 oz. meat, 8 oz. bread, and 2 oz. cheese, at 
is. 6d. (36c.) per head. Two tents were 
provided, and tables arranged to seat 350 
and 550 at a time respectively; the former 
was filled four times, and the latter thrice 
in succession, and the whole of this large 
assemblage was efficiently attended toby a 
staff of seventy waiters, carvers, etc.; 1,525 
lbs. of cooked beef, mutton, chicken, and 
ham, 1,525 lbs. of bread, and 6,100 oz. of 
cheese were consumed, the whole of the 
viands being cut up into portions on the 
day of the feast.” 

THE GOVERNMENTAL BANQUET TO 3,000 
FRENCH MAYORS. 

“The great gastronomic f6te held in a 
wing of the Exhibition building on the 
Champ de Mars, Paris, last month, July 
1888 has been a good deal discussed in the 
newspapers, but no authentic account of 
the organization and service of the monster 
feast has hitherto appeared in print. We 
now have pleasure in supplying such 
particulars from the pen of our valued 
collaborater M. Suzanne, who, himself an 
eye-witness of the banquet, has obtained 
supplementary details from the great 
catering firm of Potel and Chabot, who 
were the appointed purveyors: 

“A table d'honneur was reserved at one 
end of the room for President Carnot and 
his numerous entourage, composed of 340 
persons, and including members of the 




1GG 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


^Government and the most notable repre¬ 
sentatives of art, science, industry, and 
commerce. The two services were also 
represented by officers of the highest grade 
in uniform, and at the other end of the 
room, facing the President, and mounted 
on a raised platform, played the unrivalled 
band of the Garde Republicaine, whose 
melodious strains served to pleasantly 
mask the unavoidable rattle of the plates 
and the simultaneous plying of 3,000 knives 
a-ffi forks. Besides the table d'honneur, 
there were fifty-six minor tables symme¬ 
trically arranged in rows of seven. These 
tables were isolated from each other by a 
wide space so as to avoid incumbrance, 
and to allow free circulations to the servi¬ 
tors. Corresponding to each row of seven 
tables was a broad passage leading to a 
kitchen, where ten cooks were at work. 
Consequently there were in all eight kit¬ 
chens and eighty cooks employed. 

“ Each kitchen was fitted up with a 
range, a complete set of steam cooking 
apparatus, and eight or ten charcoal stoves; 
but I remarked that there were no gas 
appliances of any kind. Each table was 
laid for fifty persons, and bore a central 
placard, duly numbered, and indicating the 
names of the respective provinces, so that 
the representatives of each could group 
themselves together. 

“ The mayors, who had been previously 
supplied with a miniature plan of the 
dining-saloon containing detailed informa¬ 
tion, experienced no difficulty whatever in 
finding the places allotted to them. As 
the clock struck seven, the entire company 
were seated, awaiting the arrival of Presi¬ 
dent Carnot. In front of each table stood 
a head waiter, whose mission it was to 
superintend and survey the service of the 
section confided to his charge. In all, 
there were 350 waiters on duty. 

“Upon the arrival of the President and 
his ministers, the band struck up the Na¬ 
tional Anthem, and simultaneously a sig¬ 
nal given by M. Lasson, when the eight 
doors leading to the kitchens were thrown 
open as if by magic, and one hundred 


“garcons” marched into the dining-room, 
each carrying a tureen of potage a la St. 
Germaine. A. few minutes later, this body 
of waiters made their exit with the empty 
tureens. 

“After the soup, according to French 
fashion, “hors d’ceuvres” were handed 
round. The relish materials consisted of 
350 bundles of radishes, 75 lbs. of Lyons 
sausages, 400 boxes of sardines, 125 lbs. of 
prawns, 50 lbs. of oliv s, and 40 lbs. of 
butter, in pats. The soup was “ relieved ” 
by 120 dishes of trout in jelly, with French 
sauce, the latter being a mayonnaise in 
which a purde of lobster coral and some 
whipped cream had been mixed. 

“The hot dishes followed: 75 braised 
fillets of beef, which were larded and garn¬ 
ished with stewed carrots, no fewer than 
300 bunches of that vegetable having been 
prepared for the purpose. The roasted 
turkey poults, to the number of 300 were 
also served hot. To accelerate the service, 
they had been previously carved in the 
ki chens, and were brought to table with 
300 bowls of dressed salad; 80 galantines 
truffees, and 80 pies were afterwards 
introduced. 

TUB ME1TTJ. 

Potage St. Germain. 

Hors d’CEuvres. 

Truite a la GeJee, Sauce Franfaise. 

Filet de Boeuf Parisienne. 

Galantines de Poulardes truffees. 

Dindonneaux Nouveaux r6tis. 

Patfes de Foies Gras. 

Salade. 

Petits Pois a la Fermifere. 

Bombe glacee. 

Gateaux Varies. 

Baba au Rhum. 

DESSERT. 

vins. 

Madere Vieux. 

Bordeaux Grave. 

Beaune. Champagne. 

Cafe. 

“Then came the entrements: 300 dishes 
of stewed peas, babas au rhum, bombes 
glacdes, and numberless dishes of all kinds 
of pastry. The dessert was composed of 
all the fruits in season, such as straw¬ 
berries, cherries, apricots, grapes, and 
pineapples. There were also an infinite 
number of competes, and endless pyramids 
of biscuits and bonbons. Ab ttle of claret 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


1G7 


was placed before each guest; but inde¬ 
pendently of that, champagne, madeira, 
choice burgundy, and liqueurs were served 
with the second course. Three thousand 
seven hundred bottles of wine were con¬ 
sumed at this gigantic banquet. The 3,000 
cups of coffee distributed after the repast 
were also prepared by the contractors, who 
had hired two immense coffee-making ap¬ 
paratuses, such as those used for army 
campaigning purposes, and known as 
“ percolateurs.” With the coffee, liqueurs 
and spirits were introduced, the number of 
bottles emptied being as follows: 125 bott¬ 
les of cognac brandy, 75 bottles of kirsch- 
wasser, and 70 bottles of chartreuse. 

“ The description of this gastronomic 
function would not be complete without 
some mention of the table utensils used 
for the occasion. These consisted of 27,- 
000 plates, 15,000 wine-glasses and tumb¬ 
lers, and 12,000 sets of knives and forks. 

“The orderly and efficient manner in 
which the whole affair was conducted 
reflects the greatest credit on the caterers, 
who, needless to say, had to encounter 
numberless difficulties. Thanks to their 
skilled experience and well-considered 
arrangements, all obstacles were overcome, 
and the fame of Potel and Chabot as mam¬ 
moth foodproviders not only upheld, but 
distinctly enhanced.— London Caterer\ 

A RAILWAY EATING HOUSE IN SWEDEN. 

“The station at Katrineholm I shall 
never forget, nor the dinner that I had 
there. I was exceedingly hungry, having 
started early in the morning, and when the 
guard cried ‘tjugo ior middag’ (twenty 
minutes for dinner) I lost no time in mak¬ 
ing preparations. On entering the viatsal 
(dining room) I for a moment forgot my 
hunger, everything was so different from 
what I had before seen. In the center 
of the room was a long table, with a snowy 
white table-cloth, upon which was seen 
the most tempting food imaginable, all 
smoking hot, having just been taken from 
the oven. At one end of the table were 
two tureens, one of soup and the other 


of buttermilk, the last a favorite dish in 
Sweden and of which many partake before 
their soup. Beside these tureens were piles 
of warm plates, knifes, forks, spoons and 
napkins. Each traveler who was desirous 
of dining helped himself or herself to a 
plate, etc., walking around the table, se¬ 
lected what best pleased the appetite, then 
seated himself at one of the small tables 
around the room. After soup came fish, 
then roast beef, lamb, chicken, vegetables, 
jellies, puddings, bread, butter, cream and 
coffee. One could eat all he wished, help 
himself a second time if he desired to, and 
the price of a dinner, five or six courses, 
was only 1 krona and 50 ore, about 40 cents. 
Those who did not wish a full dinner 
helped themselves from the smorgasbord , 
or to a cup of coffee from a coffee urn. 
There were no waiters running to and fro, 
no crashing of dishes, no noise or confu¬ 
sion in any way. Each person wen,t to the 
desk and paid for what he had eaten, either 
the dinner from the smorgasbord , from 
which a good meal of cold meats, bread 
and butter, for 50 ore (13 cents), or for a 
lunch of coffee and cakes. The word of 
each person was taken, and there were no 
waiters to watch to see what each had 
eaten. I never enjoyed a dinner more, and 
I thought how pleasant it would be to have 
similar restaurants in America.” —Foreign 
Letter. 

BREAKFAST FOR 10,500 PEOPLE. 

“The High Sheriff of Lancaster, Mr. 
James Williamson, of Ryelands, in that 
county, has marked his assumption of office 
by a profuse and princely hospitality. On 
the nth of last month, the date of his state 
entry into Lancaster, he entertained 10,500 
people of the town and neighborhood at a 
public breakfast in his park at Ryelands. 
Mr. Williamson—who we may note en 
passant is a commercial millionnaire—being 
a native of Lancaster, determined that his 
open-house hospitality should be dispensed 
by a local caterer, and accordingly entrusted 
the monster job to Mr. S. Ducksbury, of 
the County and King’s Arms Hotel. From 






1G8 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


all vi e can hear, that gentleman rose to the 
occasion, and carried the whole affair 
through in a most satisfactory manner. As 
showing the extent and magnitude of the 
arrangements, we may mention that the 
crockery alone weighed in the aggregate 
thirteen and a half tons, and numbered 
13,000 plates, with glasses and dishes in 
proportion, two glasses being placed to each 
guest. The cutlery, which weighed over 
two tons, was supplied, we learn, by Messrs. 
Jennison, of the Belle Vue Gardens, Man¬ 
chester. To superintend the cooking ar¬ 
rangements, Mr. Ducksbury hired the ser¬ 
vices of two competent chefs, the Brothers 
Mackenzie, of Liverpool, and three weeks 
prior to the occasion they were installed in 
Lancaster, supervising the erection of 
special culinary plant. Large vats, heated 
by steam coils, were provided for boiling, 
as also a fish-steaming apparatus, capable 
of holding thirty salmon at a time. There 
were 200 dishes of salmon, the whole 
‘masked’ with mayonnaise sauce. As the 
meats were cooked they were stored in a 
large shed fitted with rack shelving, which, 
had it been placed end to end, would have 
reached two miles. The stock from the 
boiled chickens, tongues and other meats, 
together with waste, trimmings, etc., was 
cleared away as fast as produced by the 
poor of Lancaster. The viands comprised: 
2,000 pounds of salmon, 80 rounds of beef, 
80 pieces of pressed beef, 80 ribs of beef, 80 
galantines of veal, 100 Melton Mowbray 
pies (8 pounds each), 100 meat pies (vari¬ 
ous), 100 boiled hams, 250 tongues, 400 
roast chickens, 200 boiled chickens, 20 
game pies, 20 spring pies, 40 turkeys, 500 
ducklings, 300 fruit tarts, and 250 open 
tarts. Some 5,000 bottles of wine—cham¬ 
pagne, port and sherry—were consumed, 
part of the former being Pommery. The 
waiters numbered 140, and with assistants, 
washers and others, totalled a staff of 
about 350. 

“In order to provide the required accom¬ 
modation for the guests five marquees were 
erected in Ryelands Park. These tents 
were placed in the form of a square, leav¬ 


ing a considerable space in the centre. The 
tables ran the length of the tents, but had 
divisions in the centre for the accommoda¬ 
tion of the waiters. The space between 
the tents was barricaded, the public not 
being admitted to the central enclosure. 
At the back of each tent, and communicat¬ 
ing with it, was a smaller one for service 
purposes, and which was in immediate 
communication with the food and wine 
stores—two tents adjoining each other and 
occupying the centre of the enclosure: In 
the latter a telephone communicating with 
the County and King’s Arms Hotels, so 
that in the event of anything being unex¬ 
pectedly required, it could be obtained with 
the least possible delay. The intervening 
space between the several tents and stores 
was utilized for the waiters and staff of 
women who had been engaged for washing 
up, and for which water from the town 
had been laid on to the enclosure, and a 
portable steam engine fixed for heating 
purposes. The hot water was run into 
large tubs, so that there was an abundant 
supply constantly available. Behind each 
waiter’s tent a knife-cleaning machine was 
fixed with a man specially appointed to 
work it. Nothing seems to have been 
omitted which could in any way contribute 
to the comfort or convenience of the guests 
and the speedy satisfaction of their wants. 

“In the High Sheriff’s marquee, devoted 
to the local clergy, gentry and tradesmen, 
was served a sumptuous repast, the menu 
being as follows: 

POISSONS. 

Mayonnaise of Salmon. 

Soles en aspic. Potted Shrimps. 

GROSSES PIECES. 

Spring- Pies. 

Rounds of Beef. Ribs of Beef. Roulades of Beet 
Quarters of Lamb. Galantines of Veal 
Roast Chickens. Boiled Chickens. 

Boned Turkeys. Hams. Tongues. 
Various Meat Pies. Roast Ducks. 

Melton Mowbray Pies. 

Dressed t rabs. Dressed Lobsters. 

Prawns en Pyramid. 

Tomato Salads. 

ENTREMETS SUCKES. 

Fruit Tarts. Pastry, various. 

Jellies. Custard, etc. 


DESSERT. 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


169 


“ The tents for the general body of vis¬ 
itors were filled by relays, but good order 
was maintained, and, thanks to the excellent 
arrangements of Mr. Ducksbury (whose 
efforts were ably seconded by his three 
sons), the feasting of the whole 10,500 guests 
was got through in about 3^ hours. 

44 In these tents the menu was as follows: 

Poisson. 

Salmon. 

GROSSES PIECES. 

Pressed beef. Rounds of beef. 

Ribs of beef. 

Vaii )us meat pies. 

Roast chickens. Boiled chickens. 

Hams. Tongues. 

Quarters of lamb. 

Roast ducklings. 

Melton Mowbray pies. 

ENT REMETS SUC R ES._ 

FrulFtarts. Tartlets. 

Stewed fruit, etc. . 

44 On the conclusion of the feast, the 
broken meat and fragments of all kinds 
were distributed among the assistant wait¬ 
ers, the washers, and others. 

“Needless to say, there was much effusive 
toasting of tbe High Sheriff and his family, 
whose magnificent hospitality may be said 
to have created a red-letter day in the annals 
■of Lancaster. Regarded as a mere catering 
achievement this public breakfast was re¬ 
markable, and that it should have passed 
off so smoothly and successfully redounds 
not a little to the professional credit of Mr. 
Ducksbury, his chefs , and, in fact, all con¬ 
cerned in the carry ing out of a very big job.” 

CATERING AT THE MANCHESTER EXHIBI¬ 
TION. 

“The Manchester Exhibition refreshment 
contract, one of the biggest ever under¬ 
taken, which, it will be remembered, was 
secured by Mr. A. Mackenzie Ross, of the 
Cafd Royal, Edinburgh, is now in full 
working order. The accommodation al¬ 
lowed by the Executive at first proved so 
inadequate that five additional places have 
now been provided, one of the new bars 
being nearly 100 yards long. Some idea of 
the magnitude of the contract may be seen 
by an early visit to the culinary section, 
where from 6 till 9:30 a. m. a constant pro¬ 


cession of carts wait their turn to get un¬ 
loaded at the various shops in the stores— 
the lorries of Messrs. Salt, the Burtcn 
brewers, with hundreds of hogsheads of 
their beer, being conspicuous among the 
number. Of bottled beer, Messrs. Salt 
supply on an average from 1,500 to 2,oco 
weekly. One of the most extraordinary 
and interesting facts connected with the 
refreshment department is the demand for 
tea and coffee. Nightly crowds have to 
wait their turn at the tea and coffee rooms, 
which hold close on 7,000, and the quantity 
gone through during a recent week amount¬ 
ed to n arlv 1 y 2 tons of tea, equal to over 
20,000 gallons. Among the other edibles 
which Mr. Scott, the head of the chefs , puts 
through his hands, may be mentioned from 
4,000 to 5,000 lbs. of butcher meat per week; 
1,000 head of game and poultry per day; 
100 stone white fish besides salmon per 
week; 300 gallons of milk and cream per 
day; and 4,000 4-lb. loaves per day; irre¬ 
spective of biscuit, fancy bread, and fruit. 
To overtake this work, Mr. Ross has a staff 
of over 1,100 people engaged under him.” 

HOW 30,000 CHILDREN WERE FED. 

“We have received from Mr. P. C. 
Javal, of the firm of Spiers and Pond, Li¬ 
mited, detailed particulars of their “ general 
scheme” for the supply of refreshments 
to the 30,000 children who assembled in 
Hyde Park on Wednesday, June 22nd, to 
celebrate her Majesty’s Jubilee. So suc¬ 
cessfully did the caterers carry out their 
onerous undertaking, that Mr. Felix 
Spiers was personally thanked by H. R. H. 
the Prince of Wales for his share in contri¬ 
buting to the succes of the fdte; Mr. Javal 
also, whose duties held him in another 
part of the ground, received a letter by 
command of the Prince to the same effect. 
That these distinctions were honestly mer¬ 
ited will become evident from a glance at 
a few of the items on record. 

44 To cater perfectly for such an immense 
assembly of juveniles neccessitated special 
arrangements, and from 6 o’clock on Mon¬ 
day morning to 10 a. m. on Wednesday 











170 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


the woik of preparation was carried on 
continuously at the central offices of the 
firm. 

“To supply the requisite comestibles, 
the resources of several firms were called 
into action by Messrs. Spiers and Pond. 
The gross quantities given are as follows: 
27,700 meatpies, all of which were made 
by Messrs. 'Spiers and Pond; 56,00 buns, 
provided equally by Messrs. Hill and Son, 
of Bishopsgate Street, and Carl Fleck, of 
Brompton Road; 27,700 cakes, made by 
Spiers and Pond; 27,700 oranges (selected 
and examined to ensure perfect condition, 
it being late in the season for this fruit), 
supplied by Butt and Son, of High Street, 
Kensington, and Covent Garden; 9,000 
gallons of lemonade and gingerade, 
produced equally by Norrish and Culver- 
house & Co. No less than 5 tons of ice, 
moreover was supplied; knives, cups, mugs, 
paper bags etc., were of course provided in 
thousands. 

“It is scarcely necessary to observe that 
all the refreshments were made of the best 
materials, the meat pies being prepared 
from the best parts of cattle slaughtered 
upon the special premises of the catering 
firm. After they were baked, each pie was 
uniform in size, weight, etc., and was 
cooled in the ice-houses of the establish¬ 
ment; they were then each wrapped in 
small grease-proof bags. These bags were 
made up into parcels containing 200 each, 
and put into boxes. Each of these boxes 
in its turn was numbered to correspond 
with the tent to which it was consigned for 
delivery in Hyde Park. This done, the 
boxes were ready for the wagons or vans, 
which also bore the number of the tent they 
were to be sent to in the park. Tne cake 
was packed up and loaded in a similar 
manner. The ten vans, one for each tent, 
were drawn up in front of Spiers and Pond’s 
premises at six o’clock on Tuesday evening 
to receive the boxes containing the food, as 
well as the napery, cups, etc. It took until 
midnight to load the conveyances. At two 
a. m. they started in procession direct for 
Hyde Park. To prevent any possibility of 


their being looted on the way by the 
crowds which even at that hour thronged 
the streets looking at the illuminations, a 
policeman escorted each van to the park,, 
where they arrived about three o’clock in 
the morning, picking up on the route the 
carts with the oranges from Coven t Garden,, 
and from the bakers with the buns. Early 
as the hour was, the corps of 250 waiters 
were in readiness to receive the carts and 
vans, which were immediately unpacked* 
Next followed the opening of the boxes,, 
and the putting up in big paper-bags of— 
first, the bag containing the meat pie, then 
an orange, a piece of cake, and a bun in 
each one. When this was completed, all 
the bags were piled up in lots of 250 upon 
the tent-tables ready for instant distribution* 
The lemonade and gingerade for drinking 
was made on the spot in large hogsheads,, 
of which there were twelve apportioned to 
each tent. Huge ladles were planted in 
readiness to dip the liquor out into the cups 
and mugs from which the children drank. 
In addi r ion to all this, water-carts, lent by 
the Office of Works and by the military 
authorities, were attached to every tent to 
supply pure drinking-water to those who 
preferred it. A large block of ice was 
placed in each hogshead to aid in keeping 
the drinking supply cool. 

“There were ten refreshment tents,, 
numbered 1 to 10, each 140 ft. long hy 40 
ft. wide, and to each was apportioned a su¬ 
perintendent and twenty-five waiters, rein¬ 
forced by a volunteer staff of ladies and; 
gentlemen. 

“ Each school knew the number of the 
tent to which it was to proceed, and, having 
marched thither, drew up outside. Then 
in their turn, the children, in batches of 
250, proceeded into the tent and received a 
paper-bag containing the food already de¬ 
scribed, together with a cup of lemonade 
or gingerade, as was preferred. In this 
way the children, assigned beforehand to 
each tent, were very soon all served. 
Luncheons were also spread in the extra 
tents provided for the musicians and bands¬ 
men, etc. 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


171 


“The provision was quite adequate to 
the occasion, and the “leserve” was not 
drawn upon, so that the collected remnants 
from the feast formed a substantial dona¬ 
tion to Dr. Barnardo’s Home for Destitute 
Boys. 

“We have noted the above facts as an 
illustration of perfect organization and 
good management, and have pleasure in 
placing a matter of practical value to 
caterers as a body on permanent record.— 
London Caterer. 

CATERING FOR THE MULTITUDE. 

“The great popular carnival, Whitsun¬ 
tide, imposes a strain upon the resources of 
caterers which outsiders can but imper¬ 
fectly realize. At the Inventions Exhibi¬ 
tion, for example, Messrs. Spiers and Pond 
were on Whit Monday expected to meet 
the eating and drinking requirements of 
over 73,000 people. This gigantic task was, 
thanks to the masterly arrangements made, 
carried out with complete success in spite 
of pessimistic prognostications. At the 
Crystal Palace Messrs. Bertram & Roberts 
were prepared to “tackle” a similar 
inrush. The general average ftumber of 
visitors to the Crystal Palace to be provided 
for is 10,000, but Whit Monday is always a 
special day, and the curious warren of 
larders and kitchens, bakeries, groceries, 
butchers’ shops, and wine-vaults down at 
the back of the south transept, was for 
days previous a very interesting scene of 
preparation. A correspondent was per¬ 
mitted to walk through the place on the 
Saturday preceeding the great holiday, and 
a particularly busy scene he found it. The 
contractors were prepared for a nice little 
tea-party of 4,000 people at one time. They 
can seat this number at any rate—perhaps 
some at dinner and some at tea. They ex¬ 
pected to brew some 5,000 gallons of tea 
and coffee, and in one room were several 
huge boilers and some hundreds of tins like 
large-sized waterpots in which the beverage 
is run away on trucks to various parts of 
the palace. They were providing for about 
15,000 shilling teas, and their preparations 
for dinner suggested nothing short of a 


protracted siege about to commence. Some 
twelve tons of meat would be required 
and about twenty women were busily 
employed in peeling potatoes, washing cab¬ 
bages, making salads, and so forth. The 
firm make and prepare pretty nearly 
everything here, including various kinds 
of aereted drinks, the water for which is 
pumped up from an artesian well in the 
giounds and elaborately filtered on the 
premises. The bottling machinery is very 
extensive, and the laundry down in this 
queer region is fitted up with all the most 
modern appliances, the es iblishment 
having in stock something like 20,000 din¬ 
ner napkins and 5,000 or 6,000 table-cloths. 
On the Saturday there were four men. 
making nothing but pork-pies, and the 
quantities of Crystal Palace cake stowed 
away in readiness for visitors was some¬ 
thing prodigious. The ordinary staff of 
this huge culinary establishment is about 
500 people. On Bank Holiday those em¬ 
ployed about the place in one way or 
another was double that number.” 

STEWARDING FOR THE SULTAN. 

“There are over six thousand persons,, 
says the New Tork Herald, fed three times 
a day at Dolma Bagtche Palace while the 
Sultan is there. To keep all this great 
machinery of supply in perfect order, so 
that no matter how many mouths there are 
to fill, nor what sudden caprice may seize 
the Sultan, or any of his numerous women, 
it may be instantly satisfied, is a tax upon 
the best capacity, backed by unlimited 
money or credit. If the caprice is not grati¬ 
fied as rapidly as it is formulated, the officer 
whose duty it is to provide for it is almost 
certain to loose his position, if not his liberty 
and belongings, for there is a fashion of 
long usage in Turkey which confiscates 
any disgraced official’s possessions. The 
Chamberlain (manager) is mostly occupied 
in ministering to the wants and caprices of 
the Sultan, and is in almost constant attend¬ 
ance upon him, so the Treasurer of the 
Household (steward) has the burden of the 
housekeeping on his burly shoulders. He 
' has an organized force of buyers, who are 







3.72 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


each charged with the purchase of certain 
supplies for their individual departments, 
each having his helpers, servants, and slaves. 
One man is charged with the duty of sup- 
plying all the fish, and as to furnish fish for 
certainly six thousand persons is no light 
undertaking in a place where there are no 
great markets as there are in all other large 
cities, he has to have about twenty men to 
scour the various small markets and buy 
of the fishermen, and each of these men 
has two others to carry the fish they buy. 
It requires about ten tons of fish a week. 
There are nearly eighteen thousand pounds 
of bread eaten daily; for the Turks are large 
bread-eaters, and this is all baked in the 
enormous ovens situated at some distance 
from the palace. The kitchens are detached 
from all the palaces and kiosks. It requires 
a large force of bakers to make the bread 
and another to bring it to the palace and 
another force of buyers who purchase the 
flour and fuel. The bringing of most of 
the wood and charcoal is done by the un¬ 
happy camels, who carry it on their backs. 
The rest comes in large caiquer. The 
Turkish bread is baked in large loaves, and 
is light, moist, and sweet, delicious bread 
in every way, particularly that which is 
made of rye. 

“The food for the Sultan is cooked by one 
man and his aids, and none others touch it. 
It is cooked in silver vessels, and when 
done each kettle is sealed by a slip of paper 
and a stamp, and this is broken in the pres¬ 
ence by the High Chamberlain, who takes 
one spoonful of each separate kettle before 
the Sultan tastes it. This is to prevent the 
Sultan’s being poisoned. The food is al¬ 
most always served up to the Sultan in the 
same vessels in which it was cooked, and 
these are often of gold, but when of baser 
metal the kettle is set into a rich golden 
bell-shaped holder, the handle of which is 
held by a slave while the Sultan eats. Each 
kettle is a course, and is served with bread 
and a kind of pancake, which is held on a 
golden tray by another slave. It requires 
just twice as many slaves as there are cour¬ 
ses to serve a dinner to him. He usually 


sits on a divan near a window, which looks 
out over the Bosphorous, and takes his ease 
and comfort in a loose -pembazar and gegelik 
with his sleeves turned up. After he has 
eaten all he wants, the Sultan takes his cof¬ 
fee and his chibouk and lies back in an 
ecstasy of enjoyment and quiet reverie, 
which he calls taking his keif. Woe be to 
the one who comes to disturb it! The Sultan 
never uses a plate. He takes all his food 
direct from the little kettles, and never uses 
a table and rarely a knife or fork. A spoon, 
his bread or pancake or fingers are far 
Uandier. The whole household is at liberty 
to take meals where it suits him or her best, 
and thus everyone is served with a small 
tray, with a spoon, with a great chunk of 
bread, and the higher ones only get the 
pancakes. 

“The Sultan has a number of very large 
farms, some of them covering miles in ex¬ 
tent, both in European Turkey and Asiatic 
Turkey, and they are intended to supply 
all those things which farms can produce 
to the palace. They do not grow rice, and, 
in consequence, buy nearly one ton of rice 
per day for the inevitable pilaff, six hundred 
pounds of sugar, as much coffee, to say 
nothing of the other groceries, fruit, veget¬ 
ables, and meat. Rice and mutton and 
bread form the greater part of the food for 
the majority of Turks; yet, aside from these, 
they get away with one ton of beef and half 
a ton of veal per day, to say nothing of the 
other viands and fish, sweetmeats, confec¬ 
tionery, nuts, and dried and fresh fruits. 
The waste and extravagance in the kitchen 
are enormous, and enough is thrown away 
every day to maintain a hundred families. 
Much of this is gathered up by beggars, 
and the dogs eat the rest. 

It is estimated that the anual cost of the 
food received for the Sultan’s house¬ 
hold, horses and animals, aside from the 
value of the product of the vast farms, 


is very nearly if not quite.$5,000,000 

Cost of furniture, bedding- and carpets... 5,000,000 
Drug-s, women’s clothes, jewels, cosmetics 10,000,000 

apnces of all kinds.15,000,000 

Sultan’s clothes and bedding-. 2,000,000 

Sundries, presents, and servants wages... 4 ooo’ooo 

Plate, gold and silver dishes. 2,500,000 

Carriages, 474 of them..’ 474’coo 


Total 


$41,974,000 














THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


173 


“That is a snug little sum, but it is an 
under rather than an overestimate.” 

THE ARMY HOSPITAL STEWARD. 

The army steward is like the under 
steward of a steamship. He is subordinate 
to the surgeon of the ward, who acts as 
upper steward in some respects. The hos¬ 
pital steward has his cooks and assistants 
and has charge of the preparation and serv¬ 
ing of meals and care of patients, beds, 
etc.; he makes his requisitions for rations 
and supplies and presents them to the sur¬ 
geon for approval and signature. At every 
permanent post there is a store-room in 
charge of a oommissary, which greatly re¬ 
sembles the store-room of a hotel, except 
that it contains a much smaller variety of 
goods, and the requisitions are here pre¬ 
sented and the goods issued to officers’ 
messes and ward patients and are booked 
and accounted for to the quartermaster, 
much the same as under the hotel system. 

EXPOSITION CATERING—WHAT IT COSTS 

TO CATER AND WIIAT THE CHANCES 
ARE FOR PROFITS. 

Atlanta, Ga., Oct. 17th,’87.—Here is a 
great business which is intirely unrepre¬ 
sented in American journalism, and carried 
on entirely without system, almost without 
understanding; a new set of moths flying 
at the dazzling flame and coming out 
singed every year. This letter to the 
Hotel World is written on the grounds 
in the half-way period of the Exposition at 
Atlanta, the best week yet to come, the 
weather the most favorable possible, and 
everything propitious to the utmost success, 
therefore I have no croaking predictions of 
financial disaster to make in this case, but 
am impressed with the vast disproportions 
of the risks to be run to the possible profits 
of a dining room and r staurant enterprise 
at such a fair when undertaken under the 
conditions which are now generally im¬ 
posed. Undoubtedly the directors of these 
temporary fairs ought to award the dining 
room privileges free to the best and most 
responsible party that would accept, instead 


of exacting a heavy bonus and sure pay, 
cash down in advance, as they do, throwing 
all the risks of failure from bad weather, 
non-attendance of the public, fire, or other 
mishaps, upon the venturesome refresh¬ 
ment contractor; and undoubtedly they 
would, if the risks and difficulties to be met 
were better understood and some of the 
delusively exaggerated idea of the profits 
to be realized from serving cooked meals 
were dissipated by actual exhibits of losses 
and gains in different instances; for the 
directors would be compelled to provide 
dining places for the crowds which they 
induce to attend their shows, and it is 
nothing but the infatuation of inexperience 
that impels men to pay thousands of dol¬ 
lars for the wretched privilege of expend¬ 
ing thousands more in fitting up one or two 
hotels on the grounds, with all the inci¬ 
dental entailments, all for the grand reward 
in view of a probable two weeks’ business. 
Messrs. Directors! I wouldn’t pay you 
ten cents. There is no adequate profit in 
serving meals alone under such circum¬ 
stances. 

Big money is occasionally made by 
exposition catering, but it is under certain 
favorable conditions, such as the being in 
a very large city; having exclusive p.ivi- 
leges; owning every refreshment stand on 
the grounds; the contractor being perma¬ 
nently provided with portable ranges, 
tables, silverware, crockery, linen, and the 
thousand miscellaneous wares, always 
ready for such employment, and under¬ 
standing the business and all its risks. 
The number of disasters that occur is, 
however, so much greater than the suc¬ 
cesses as to scarcely justify a comparison 
being made, yet, if better reported, they 
might warn the fresh crop of enthusiasts 
and keep some of them out of trouble; as, 
for example, these following: 

At the Cotton Exposition, which took 
place at Atlanta a few years ago, two gen¬ 
tlemen in the restaurant and hotel business 
on the grounds lost ten thousand dollars 
each, according to common report. One 
1 of these, Mr. Pease, is not known in hotel 






174 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


circles, but he had a local name and repu¬ 
tation, somewhat of the factitious order, 
perhaps, as an able restaurateur. He con¬ 
ducted the exposition dining rooms, did 
business enough, apparently, fed the people, 
but failed to get his pay through having no 
system of checking. He had long tables, 
and the people crowded in at meal hours, 
and many either went away without pay¬ 
ing at all, or paid the waiters, or dropped 
the money into any open hand that hap¬ 
pened to be held out to receive it. The 
other loser built the exposition hotel, and 
failed to secure patronage commensurate 
with his expenses. His financial disaster 
probably changed the current of his life. 
He is one of the most amiable of men, and 
his name was once exceedingly prominent 
as a rising hotel keeper, but ever since that 
disappointment he has retired to his Vir¬ 
ginia estate and cares no more for exposi¬ 
tion follies. 

Another ambitious man in the hotel 
keeping line was brought down through 
an unfortunate catering venture in Kansas 
City several years ago. His name was 
Seigmundt; he kept a hotel on the Euro¬ 
pean plan and received so much praise in 
various ways that it made him want to own 
all the hotels in the city, and he planned to 
build a new one that should be larger than 
all the others combined. Just then the 
Kansas City bridge across the Missouri 
river was finished; the railway companies 
and the city combined to give an immense 
celebration of the event, and the city coun¬ 
cil or committee in charge awarded to 
Seigmundt the contract for a barbecue 
feast to be provided for ten thousand people, 
fully fifty thousand strangers being ex¬ 
pected, and the barbecue being calculated 
upon as one of the aids in providing for 
such of the crowd as could not find other 
accommodations. The event came off and 
the barbecue proved a most indescribable 
failure. Seigmundt did not understand 
what he undertook. There was no water, 
no bread, no more cooked meat than would 
serve for a few hundred, only some raw 
carcasses rolled about in the dirt, and a 


crowd angry enough to have started a riot 
but for strong restraints. Seigmundt was 
utterly crushed. He not only lost the 
money, as he could not claim payment on 
his contract, but his courage was broken; 
he left Kansas City and went to Galveston, 
where he died not long afterwards, in all 
probability a victim to the mania for under¬ 
taking g eat catering enterprises which so- 
often overcome the inexperienced. But 
nearly every reader of this article can tell 
of such instances. I will only add a local 
example of small size. The man who had 
the refreshment privileges at the Georgia 
state fair at Macon last year came out six 
hundred dollars loser, and if the amount 
was small it was borrowed money and he 
was a poor man, and consequently was 
sufficiently serious for him. 

CATERING AT THE PIEDMONT EXPOSITION. 

If anything can be made in a dining 
room and restaurant enterprise on the fair 
grounds, when everything is favorable to 
success, the venture at this place ought to 
turn out well. I write now of the eating 
department exclusively, for the liquor or 
liquid privileges were sold separately and 
do not affect the following exhibit of ex¬ 
penses incurred (liquors, by the way, are 
known by different names in the Atlanta 
prohibition fatois from those common in, 
the freer portions of the country)—and 
only cigar selling is included as an aid to 
pay the first grand tax. The gentlemen 
interested have the advantage of both hotel 
and mercantile experience; they know how 
to buy and where to buy the best and 
cheapest. The privileges sold to these 
parties as the highest bidders, were to run 
a dining room on the regular meal plan, 
meals not to be charged higher than fifty 
cents, and to run another on a different 
part of the grounds on the a la carte plan, 
all dishes bearing a distinct price. Both of 
these places are now running. The dining 
room is just what the name implies Per¬ 
sons approaciiing the door find a ticket 
seller in the way, they buy their tickets, 
paying, of course, in advance for their 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


175 


meal; then at the door they deliver the 
ticket to the doorkeeper and pass in when 
the headwaiter directs them to seats at one 
or other of the tables. A good ordinary 
meal is served without a bill of fare, con¬ 
sisting of about three kinds of meet, half a 
dozen vegetables, three kinds of sweets, 
that is, pudding and two kinds of pie, and 
ending wi’h coffee or tea; bread, butter, 
pickles, cheese and such oddments being 
of course supplied without stint. The other 
place is like your Chicago Oyster House, a 
good bill of fare is found upon the tables, 
oysters, fish, game, made dishes and steaks, 
chops, etc., in variety are cooked to order, 
and parties can spend as much as they 
please; the prices are high enough to make 
the place sufficiently exclusive and so all 
kinds of people are suited. To secure the 
pay under this plan where every dish bears 
a different price and there can be no pre¬ 
payment, the plan is to have the waiters pass 
a desk where a clerk counts up the amount 
on their tray, gives a ticket to go with the 
order and drops a duplicate ticket into a 
locked box. The customer takes the ticket 
to the cashier and pays as he goes out, and 
at night the clerk’s box of tickets and the 
cashier’s tickets and cash are expected to 
correspond in amount. This is all a pleas¬ 
ant and smooth sort of a business when 
once fairly in running order, but it is cal¬ 
culated to appal a lazy man at least to con¬ 
template the work that must be done in the 
short limit of three or four weeks to equip 
and commence operations in two such 
places, the carpenters being still at work 
building them, and then t<j think that after 
the finish they are but to run twelve days. 
It will be useful to some who have never 
been through the mill to read over a list of 
only the principal things that must be 
done for such a spurt of business. We 
have he re, nearly all bought outright and 
not hired: 

Two hotel ranges, each one fire and 
two ovens, one of them new, the other 
bought cheaply. 

One ten-foot oyster and chop range to 
burn charcoal, made to order; ten feet of 


heavy gridirons, cupola, four flues and 
smoke stack and expenses of putting up. 

One three-foot broiler, new. 

One carving table, new, with dish warmer 
and water heating attachment, made to 
order, with tin-ware steam chest utensils 
belonging. 

One wooden water tank for range, made 
to order, and expenses of fittings. 

Two wells dug one at each kitchen door, 
and equipped with frames, pulleys and 
buckets. 

Two small pantries partitioned off from 
kitchens, fitted with shelves, doors, locks, 
etc. 

One store-room fitted with shelves, meat 
hooks, locks, etc. 

Two butcher’s meat blocks, one for each 
place. 

Two refrigerators, not new. 

Two new meat saws and cleavers. 

Eight kitchen and dish-tables, common. 

Eight dish-washing tubs fitted with drain 
pipes. 

Two dish racks erected on whole side of 
dish rooms. 

Four tin boilers with faucets and strain¬ 
ers for coffee and tea, average ten gallons 
each. 

Six tall tin boilers for boiling hams and 
for general purposes. 

Three eight-gallon sauce-pans with lids, 
made to order. 

Fifty oyster and other sauce-pans. 

Two large potato fryers. 

Six wire broilers. 

Twelve fry and omelette pans, various 
sizes. 

Thirty-six tin pans, all sizes, including 
strainers, etc. 

Spoons, ladles, dippers, skimmers, in 
variety. 

Fifty dining tables, six-seat size, new. 

Four hundred and fifty split-bottom 
chairs, new, made to order. 

One hundred and fifty white damask 
table-cloths, new, hemmed. 

Two thousand linen napkins, new, 
hemmed. 

Thirty-six plated castors or cruet stands. 





176 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


Three hundred sets plated knives, forks, 
spoons, cups, saucers, plates, dishes, butter 
chips, creamers, salts and tumblers, all 
bought outright. 

Thirty-six waiters’ trays. 

Twenty-four water-pitchers. 

Eighteen gasoline lamps or torches for 
use at intervals when electric light is not 
in operation. 

Sign painting, kalsomining, bunting de¬ 
corations, evergreens, sign-card printing, 
ticket printing, bill of fare printing. 

Thirty feet of show cases, rented. 

Telephone connection and instrument, 
rented. 

Wagons and drays hired, between fifty 
and one hundred at a dollar a load—expo¬ 
sition prices. 

Two headwaiters and thirty side waiters 
hired for the fair at extra rates of wages. 

Two head cooks and twenty-six kitchen 
hands. 

Six cashiers and clerks beside proprie¬ 
tors, counting one in store room and one 
at cigar stand. 

Insurance on four thousand dollars worth 
of property and stock including cigars at 
special risk rate of 2 y 2 per cent. 

“Fore-warned is fore-armed.” The above 
shows the principal bulk of the burden to 
be taken on before business can be begun 
in the line of exposition catering. Fuel, 
imported New York meats, game, shell 
oysters, fish, bread, butter, the hundred 
miscellaneous items of provision, have to 
come afterwards. 

In competition with these two dining 
establishments the fair directors also li¬ 
censed, and our proprietors by their con¬ 
tract agreed to, a large barbecue hall, where 
sliced roast meat and bread can be obtained 
at low price; and also twenty lunchstands, 
where coffee and sandwiches, cakes, pies, 
fruit, etc., are sold, so that our larger hotels 
are far from enjoying a monopoly. 

The weather thus far has been perfect 
and the crowds in attendance large. The 
best week is yet to come. 


Atlanta, Ga., Oct. 31, 1887. Now that 
the Expo ition is over, the questions of 
everyone I meet, of course run about this 
way: “Well, how did yon come out?” 
“Did they make anything?” “What luck 
did you have?” “How much money was 
made?” In replying to questions of this 
sort one must know how to stop short of 
meddling with private business. From 
that consideration I did not give the prices 
paid for the many articles enumerated in 
the former le ter on this subject—a list 
intended to be permamently useful as 
showing what is required in preparation 
for such a business—and as to results, it can 
only be stated that they are like those of a 
closely contested election. A week after 
the event the returns are not all in, and the 
proprietors after all their good book-keep¬ 
ing do not yet know how they came out. 

The sanguine calculation was made 
that there would be twelve days of business 
and four nights. When the time came 
these promised periods where whittled 
down at both ends and in the middle till 
they lacked about one-third of being full 
measure, for the two first days were but of 
the preparatory sort and little business *yas 
done; then there never was much break¬ 
fast business, nothing done until the 
middle of the day. If a great many took 
dinner they left the grounds before supper 
except on the four nights when there were 
fireworks, then there was a rushing supper 
business as well as dinner, but after the 
fire-works, nothing, for the people rushed 
off the grounds in the greatest possible 
hurry. Then came two rainy days, but as 
they were the big days of the fair the 
eating-house interests did not suffer, for the 
people came over a hundred thousand 
strong, some of them wading through mud 
nearly up to their waists—at least they 
looked just that muddy—and the eating- 
houses were taxed to their utmost capacity 
to feed them all; but the day after that 
came nobody and the day was a lost one to 
business; the closing days were like the 
opening, poor and unprofitable. 

The proprietors were not, however, de- 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


177 


pending on a single team to pull them 
through, they drove a four-in-hand. They 
had paid in advance one thousand dollars 
for the “ privilege,” and found that they 
had the privilege of selling drinkables as 
well as eatables; they fitted up two places 
in imitation of bars in connection with 
their two dining rooms and stocked them 
up with rice beer, nerve tonic, soda choctaw 
blood balm, swift specific, and rheumatic 
cure, drinks which Atlantians and all 
southerners seem to be passionately fond of, 
and as these were sold at ten cents a drink 
for rice beer, which was the lowest, up to 
twenty-five cents for soda choctaw, the re¬ 
venue derived from them was very satis¬ 
factory in amount, although there were a 
number of druggist clerks required to be 
paid for attending to the business not enu¬ 
merated in the former list of hands em¬ 
ployed. 

The cash receipts from all four places 
combined, that is, from the dining hall, the 
oyster house and the two drug counters, 
amounted on the best day of the fair to 
over twelve hundred dollars for that one 
day. On average days the four places 
yielded pretty evenly about two hundred 
dollars each. The dining room where 
fifty-cent meals were served, as described 
in the former letter, did the most business, 
having a steady run of custom from the ex¬ 
hibitors and attendants as well as visitors, 
and usually served about four hundred 
dinners; one day served fifteen hundred 
meals, and this was all done with a one-fire 
range, a broiler and steam chest with 
steamers; a large part of the meats were 
cooked in the night by a special night 
cook, and bread was bought from a steam 
bakery. 

I have written for the Hotel World 
this outline sketch of what exposition cater¬ 
ing consists in, and what may be expected 
as the outcome, believing that even this will 
be better than no guide at all for those who 
may contemplate embarking in such an 
undertaking. Without going into further 
detail it will be fair to assume that: 


This was as succesful as such an affair 
ever can be. 

The planning and furnishing was done 
with the utmost intelligence by men who 
knew what they were about. 

Good wares were purchased that they 
might be good enough to sell again. 

The amount of business done was as 
much as could be expected where a mo¬ 
nopoly of all could not be secured. 

The expenses were enormous. 

A crowd of hands had to be paid en¬ 
hanced wages and boarded where provisions 
cost enhanced prices, through the general 
demand of the time. 

A great risk was run of the whole 
period being rainy — as the following 
week really was—and a consequent dead 
loss through the lack of visitors to the 
fair. 

If the amount of profit made was large 
enough to be interesting it would not take 
a week or two to find it out. 

If the thousand dollars exacted for the 
“privilege” had never been paid, as it 
ought not to have been, the proprietors 
might have realized something worth their 
trouble, anxiety and outlay. 

If they have made anything it is very 
likely to be found tied up in the ranges 
and furniture, which now have to be sold 
as best they may be. There is just one 
more conclusion to be drawn, and that is 
that a great many people, fair directors 
among others, think that a thousand dol¬ 
lars taken in for the sale of meals is nearly 
all profit. The fact is, provisions cost 
something; our proprietors paid Beinecke, 
the New York butcher, $370 for only one 
shipment of meat for their exposition 
dining rooms and restaurant, which out¬ 
lay was, of course, for only a compara¬ 
tively small portion of the material used. 

TRAINING A STOREKEEPER. 

Old Colonel Yesey was standing by when 
I was trying to instruct Tom, our store¬ 
keeper, how he must do to meet the views 
of the hotel company and especially the 
company’s very exact and methodical book- 







178 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


keeper, and the Colonel, who was an ex¬ 
hotel keeper himself, having run the only 
tavern in Way back for a number of years 
before, dropped the remark that he “ did 
not see the use of keeping store-room 
books, anyway; that he had never kept 
any.” That was just the sort of remark 
that Tom liked to hear, for he was nothing 
but a gay and noisy young fellow, who 
wanted to do no more work than necessity 
compelled him to do. He liked well 
enough to sit in the store-room with a dime 
novel ready open on the table; to bluff off 
one who came for stores; tell the next to 
help himself, and swear when another 
came for whom he had to reach something 
down from an upper shelf or open a new 
package; and he liked very well to use his 
position to hand out nice fruit and such 
good things to the pretty girls and withold 
such favors from those who did not 
please him. He had held such positions 
before in unmethodically conducted houses 
and imagined that hotel storekeeping was 
just that playful sort of business every¬ 
where, until he was installed in the store¬ 
room of this first-class hotel and then the 
requirements of the new place bewildered 
him; and, instead of blaming himself for 
his want of knowledge of the real duties of 
the position, he simply said in a self-com¬ 
placent way that his darned luck had led 
him to a place where they were nothing 
but a set of cranks. Colonel Vesey him¬ 
self was employed in some subordinate 
position in the front part of the house and 
meant nothing in particular by his random 
remark, and Tom did not stop to think 
that the Colonel’s hotel-keeping had not 
been a success, but had left him in a de¬ 
pendent condition after all. All Tom cared 
for was to find that somebody shared his 
views, and made his indignation at the 
cranky requirements of the company’s 
bookkeeper seem perfectly natural. Con¬ 
sequently this moral support from such an 
old hotel keeper did Tom a great deal of 
harm. I had brought him there myself, 
rather liking his cheerful disposition and 
thinking that he could be trained to become 


a thorough hotel man, and this first-class 
hotel storekeeping seemed to me to be the 
finest opportunity a young man could have 
to get a knowledge of the business from 
the very foundation. But there was some¬ 
thing deficient in Tom’s nature. He was 
lazy. He was too easily discouraged. 
Goods were sent in by merchants who neg¬ 
lected to send the bills with the goods; 
Tom declared he could not enter the things 
in the receiving book when he did not 
know the prices. Such goods were issued 
to the different departments and entered in 
his issue book without the cost prices. His 
daily account of issues could not be made 
up correctly. Bills came in to be paid and 
he had lost track of the goods, could give 
no account of them. Some goods sent in 
were billed twice over—that is, a bill would 
come in with the goods and another for 
the same goods would come in, either 
through mistake of the merchants or be¬ 
cause it was the regular monthly presenta¬ 
tion of bills, and most of the time Tom 
would enter the second bill as well in his 
receiving book, which at the end of the 
month, when everything was added up, 
made it appear as if he had received a lot 
of goods which he could not account for. 
The company’s bookkeeper, being as bright 
and keen as a diamond, never made any 
quibbles about such blunders, as some 
might have done, by trying to frighten 
Tom with the threat of making him pay 
for these goods which his book seemed to 
show that he had received and yet he could 
not produce, for the bookkeeper saw into 
the mistakes at a glance, but seeing Tom 
was but a poor stick and a hindrance to 
the account keeping instead of a help, he 
mildly advised that he be discharged and a 
better hand put in his place. But Tom 
saved us the trouble. All the fun of store¬ 
keeping had vanished; he could not even 
enjoy his novel; he dared hardly give 
grapes, pears and oranges to the pretty girls 
in the yard any more for fear the “cranks” 
would go to weighing, measuring or 
counting and ask him what he had done 
with the stuff. So one morning he did not 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


179 


appear at the store-room. He left the key 
hanging on my door knob and had run away. 

It is all very well to propose to “fire out” 
•a hand who is only half a hand, but in 
reality hotel keepers, stewards, headwaiters, 
housekeepers, employers, all are very slow 
to discharge the help that they can get 
along with at all. It may be difficult to 
find the better one to put in the place. 
There is a chance that the new one will 
prove worse with some other failing. 
There are really but few trained hotel 
hands and none harder to find than real 
experienced store-room keepers. There 
are plenty of hands always wanting to 
work, whole helpless families of them, but 
what do they know? What can they do? 
What have they ever learned that is use¬ 
ful? To be a hotel storekeeper it is neces¬ 
sary to know something about accounts 
and be quick at figures; besides that there 
is some muscular labor to be performed. 
We find plenty who can work, but they 
-cannot keep books, and some who can keep 
books who cannot or will not work with 
their hands. And a good many poor 
•creaturers seeking work say pitifully, “But 
I can do anything you tell me and shall 
soon learn.” Yes, if we only had time 
and patience to train every new hand that 
comes along; but we all have our own 
duties, tasks and anxieties and want to be 
assisted, not to be always giving assistance. 

However, a store-room keeper had to be 
iound, for business was crowding every¬ 
body. No male storekeeper could be found 
A young lady was advertising for a situa¬ 
tion as assistant bookkeeper. I answered 
the advertisement, stating what wa*- 
wanted, and she came and made a favor¬ 
able impression at once. In the large 
cities there are numbers of female store¬ 
room keepers in hotels and restaurants and 
they make a trade of it, following the same 
occupation for years. It is suitable em¬ 
ployment for a woman. There is some 
laborious work about it, but generally 
■some help is available to be called in at the 
worst times. Mr. Tatillonner—that was 
the company’s bookkeeper, I did not men¬ 


tion his name before because I hate to 
write long words—intimated that now a 
new person had taken up the duties it 
would be wise to train her just right, by 
which I understood very well that he 
wanted somebody to fall in with his own 
special method of hotel bookkeeping, and 
classify matters and things as they came to 
hand, all ready for him to transcribe them 
into his own system of accounts, and I 
seconded him in his first instructions and 
explanations as much as lay in my power 
amidst a rush of hotel business in the 
height of the season. Steward’s and store¬ 
keeper’s bookkeeping is not the hotel book¬ 
keeping, but only auxiliary. The steward’s 
books must be right and show faithfully 
the incomes and outgoes of his department 
before the hotel bookkeeper can make out 
whether the hotel is making or losing. 
Technical hotel bookkeeping is learned at 
business colleges, but after that it is found 
that different systems are followed in dif¬ 
ferent places. Mr. Tatillonner was a man 
of superior attainments in that line. He 
was doing more than keeping the books of 
the hotel business, he was the accountant 
of all the company’s opera'ions of which 
the hotel was only one part. He had gained 
his experience of hotel accounts in estab¬ 
lishments belonging to stock companies, 
like those famous hotels of Switzerland or 
those immense modern hotels of the En¬ 
glish railway companies, where they add 
up the totals every day, make statements 
to the shareholders every month and make 
public statements and declarations of divi¬ 
dends every quarter, and where scarcely 
so much as a match can be taken, certainly 
not a box of matches, without somebody 
having to account for it. So if Tom had 
thought this man, doing this hotel’s book¬ 
keeping with such ideas of exactitude in 
his head, was a “crank,” it may well be 
supposed that Mr. T. thought Tom was a 
very poor excuse of a young man, indeed, 
for knowing next to nothing. So it re¬ 
mained now to be seen how the new store¬ 
keeper would get along in the seemingly 
difficult situation. 






180 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


The difficulty was only seeming, not 
actual. In a large establishment each de¬ 
partment is but a part of the whole ma¬ 
chine; each individual is a wheel, all hav¬ 
ing to go through their own round in their 
stated time and not disarrange the works 
by stopping or trying to run more than 
their own part. Our new storekeeper had 
to learn a daily routine according to a spe¬ 
cial system, and that once understood it 
was merely a matter of industry and faith¬ 
ful application to duty and success was 
sure; besides, Miss Massinger—that was 
her name—liked her new duties; she was 
prim and methodical in all her ways and 
had a natural talent for bookkeeping. 

In a very large number of hotels, those 
of small or medium capacity, the store¬ 
keeper’s duties are much mixed, only a 
portion of the day at stated periods being 
devoted to receiving and issuing goods. It 
may be in such a case our new storekeeper 
would have filled in the intervals assisting 
in the pantry or preparing the fruit and 
cake baskets for table, or attending to 
the milk and cream. In this house, how¬ 
ever, we had ample employment for every 
hour of the day for the storekeeper in the 
store-room itself, the very strict bookkeep¬ 
ing required making even more than one 
could attend to. Early every morning, or 
soon after the store-room was open, which 
was half past five, the country people came 
crowding around with marketing to sell; 
that made weighing, measuring, counting, 
booking and giving orders properly signed, 
dated, stamped and figured up to each one 
to get the pay on at the offic', the sums 
varying from ten cents to ten or twenty 
dollars—as when a load of chickens was 
bought. At the same time three or four 
hands from the cooking and serving de¬ 
partments came with vessels for various 
material, which had to be weighed, meas¬ 
ured or counted out to them and the 
amounts entered in the proper column in 
the store-room issue book, charged to each 
department, all the issues during the day 
to be footed up at night. When goods 
came in from the stores and markets, also 


wood, coal, charcoal, ice, milk, all kinds of 
stores and supplies in fact, the storekeeper 
had to receive- them, see them weighed or 
counted and entered the transaction; com¬ 
pared the actual amounts received with the 
bills sent in and marked errors, if any, and 
disallowed the pay for goods damaged or 
missing. Then these bills were to be entered 
in the book the same as the small market¬ 
ings from the country people, but perhaps 
in different columns. So one thing with 
another kept Miss M. fully employed, the 
hotel doing a lively business at the time,, 
and she seemed to be getting along very 
well. 

Still, at the end of a week I could see 
there was a hitch somewhere, and I was 
anxious for various reasons that my new 
storekeeper should give satisfaction, so I 
set in to find out what it was. But she 
hardly knew. It had just taken her two 
days and part of the nights to take stock, 
that is to find out at the end of the month 
how much property remained in the store¬ 
room and give the value of it in figures, 
and this was one thing which had caused 
Mr. T., the bookkeeper, to give vent to 
some expressions of impatience. Miss M. 
thought she had been doing noble work in 
keeping all the books in correct order and 
allowing no errors to appear of any de¬ 
scription in the accounts of a week, but 
she said Mr. Tatillonner seemed to expect 
stock to be taken every night, which was a 
physical impossibility—so she thought— 
and said he had remarked that while he was 
obliged for the sake of iiis own account¬ 
keeping to have a statement of stock on hand 
every two weeks, yet he should like to have 
her accounts so that she could tell how much 
stock remained at any time on an hour’s 
notice, and she added, laughingly, she be¬ 
gan to sympathize with her predecessor, 
Tom, who had run away from it. I had 
heard him myself speaking to her about a 
former manager of the house who was so 
exact in his figures and daily bookkeeping 
that he could tell every night whether the 
hotel had made anything that day or lost. 
Some men have a taste and talent that 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


181 


way. There is not hing in common between 
such men as that and such as Colonel 
Vesey, who despised figures altogether, 
yet it must be owned the figuring men are 
the ones who carry on the world’s business. 
There was another thing making the new 
storekeeper feel incompetent and uncom¬ 
fortable. The manager of the hotel him¬ 
self was in the habit of dropping in, after 
looking over some bills perhaps, and ask¬ 
ing what day it was that the last doz. boxes 
of soap came in and how many bars were 
being issued a day; when the last tierce of 
hams was begun of; how much flour was 
being used a day or week, and so forth. 
The girl thought her part was done when 
she had entered everything correctly in 
the books, and had not prepared herself to 
answer such questions off hand, though 
they could be answered by an examination 
of the entry book or issue book, or both; 
but the stock taking seemed to her the in¬ 
surmountable difficulty. “What,” she 
said, “roll about and weigh all those bar¬ 
rels and boxes, those tubs of butter and 
that greasy tierce of lard every night?” 
“ Nonsense, young lady,” I said, “nothing 


of the sort; what are your books for; don’t 
they show how much you have given out 
from a barrel or box every day?” “ Yes,” 
said she, “ they would if the amounts were 
singled out and added together and sub¬ 
tracted from the box or barrel, but that 
would take forever; there wouldn’t be time 
for anything else all day. Oh dear,” she 
continued, about half in earnest, “which 
road do you think Tom took when he ran 
away? I may have to go the same route.”' 
But I told her there was nothing to be dis¬ 
couraged about; all she needed was one 
more book specially ruled, which she had 
not at present, and I would show her how 
to take stock every evening without leav¬ 
ing her chair, and how to tell at a glance 
what day, and hour if necessary, any box, 
barrel or package had been taken in, and 
how much was used a day, or in an aver¬ 
age way, and it would not take up an hour 
a day to keep it posted to the satisfaction 
of even such an exacting accountant as 
Mr. Tatiilonner was proving to be. 

Accordingly I obtained a blank book of 
medium size and ruled it in this way: 


ST0KE-E00M STOCK BCOK. 

ST0EE-K00M STOCK BOOK. 

CABBAGE. 

CHICKENS. 

SOAP. 

SUGAR. 

>< 

D 

RECEIVED. 

ISSUED. 

REMAINS. 

AUGUST. 

RECEIVED. 

ISSUED. 

REMAINS. 

>- 

p 

RECEIVED. 

ISSUED. 

REMAINS. 

| AUGUST. 

RECEIVED. 

ISSUED. 

REMAINS. 

1 




1 

• 



1 

600 bars. 

12 


1 




2 




2 

70 



2 


8 


2 




3 

100 head. 

10 


3 

24 

60 


3 


8 


3 




4 


6 


4 


50 


4 


10 


4 

240 lbs. 

25 


5 


8 


5 

108 

40 


5 


8 


5 


35 


6 


8 


6 


40 


6 


8 


6 


45 


7 


6 

62 

7 

18 

25 

5 

7 


10 

530 

7 


25 

110 

8 




8 




8 




8 




9 




9 




9 




9 




10 




10 




to 




10 




11 




11 




11 




11 




12 




12 




12 




12 




13 




13 




13 




13 




14 




14 




14 




14 




15 




15 




15 




15 




16 




16 




16 




16 



I* 














































182 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


The Store-Room Issue Book. 

ISSUED FROM STORE ROOM,^^ 

KITCHEN 



Ul 


3d 

!mo« 

41% 

Ian* 

Total 


Dol. 

Cts. 


nr 

j IMM 

ta 

Ihu 

14 

Ism 

Ufa 

lu«« 

Total 

fa 

Dol 

Cts 

Beef, quarter 









Brought Forsvar 

a 







Beef, loin 









Peas, split 









Beef, rib roast 









Peas 









Beef, irnderloiD 









Rice 









Mutton, qoarler 









Bariev. 









Mutton, racks 









Mackerel 









Lamb 









Pig’s feet 









Veal, quarter 









Tripe 









Veal, nuke 









Salt 









Pork, quarter 









Macaroni 









Pork, loin 









Corned beef 








Chickens, JrfSSCt 









Tongues 









Chickens, live 









Ham 









, Turkeys, ted 









Bacop 








— 

Turkeys, live 









Salt pork 








Fish, bulk 









Cheese 









. Fish, dressed 









Oil 









BntW table 









Lemons 









, Butter, JOOklBf 


















*_Lard_ 


















, Oatmeal 


















. Cranked wheat 


















(rrii.s 


















.-Milk_ 


















£ggfl- 

















— -j 

. Potatoes 


















&!%&!. .gran 


















Sugar, trow'd 


















, Codfish 


















Cracker dust 


















, Corn 


















Tomatoes 


















Cabbage 


















Turnips 


















Parsley 


















Carrots 


















Onions 


















Beane, string 


















Beans. lima 


















Beans, uavy 









1 









t - 














To 

tal 

t 
























































































THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


183 


The Store-Room Issue Book. 

D3:t0, .—. 188 . (TlyArt A.atvcI 

“ 11 toffpQt 


HAS'^RY & BAKERY 


NG ROOM & PANTRY 


ifmtMfrt and fold Hr*-. ffarM •• II 


ihJ U—ia 



1 JSe 

2d 

l>40« 

u 

Insoe 

4tb 

luu« 

Total 

* 

Del 

Lts. 


Ut 

llltlt 

2d 

laane 

■id 

Inane 

♦ lb 
Inane 

Total 

4 

Dol. 

Cts 

. 

Flout 









Butter 










, Meal 









Sugar, cut loaf 










Lard 









Sugar, powT5 










Butter 









Srrup 










Tggg 









Toffee 










, Sugar. brown 









Tea 










. Sugar. gran 









Chocolate. 










Sugar. pow’d 









Telery 










Milk 









Tlives 










Rice 









Pickles 










Lemons 









Tomatoes 










. Cream 









Logins 










Gelatine 









Mute 










Salt 









Theese 




























































• 













































• 















































« 










Total 



• 




Tot 

a) 




Laundky & Linen room. 




OFFICE 




Soap 









Writing paper 










Blueiug 







• 


Envelopes 










Starch 









Cl. papei 



































































Total 




Total 





Help’s Hall 




RECAPITULATION 




Sugar 









Kitchen 







• 1 



Mi* 









Pastry and B. 










Coffee 









Dining Room 










Tea 









Laundry 










Syrup 









Office 










Butter 









Help’s Hall 
















































Tot*) 




Total Issues 




















































































































184 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


The example shows the half-size of two 
pages; there must be ruled lines enough 
to take in the 31 days, and the wider the 
pages are the more items can be run on 
the same date line, bringing 3 or 4 items in 
each division where our example shows but 
one. The names of articles were placed 
alphabetically in the pages; thus the first 
page was headed Almonds , Apples , the last 
page Wine and Yeast ; it was easy to find 
Ice in the middle of the book when that ar¬ 
ticle was brought in and weighed, and easy 
to find Milk when that came in varying 
quantities thrice or more a day, and easy 
to set down the number of gallons to the 
left or right of the column, showing the 
morning and evening receipts. It was 
found that there were 200 articles of al¬ 
most daily issue to be given in these pages, 
such as Bacon, Barley, Beef ,Beans,Brushes, 
Butter, Buckets', at two to a page it took 
up 100 pages or 50 leaves of the book for 
every two or three months. But still not 
over 50 different things would be issued in 
one day, and some days not nearly that 
many, so that there were often only 20 or 
30 items to be transcribed from the issue 
book, and the quickest way was for two 
persons to act together. The “Remains” or 
stock-on-hand column was not necessarily 
added up daily, but it was found useful to 
do so as it often reminded the storekeeper 


of an otherwise hardly remembered duty, 
to order more of an article that was getting 
low, as in the example; the addition and 
subtraction show's only five chickens left 
on hand for a houseful of people. But the 
best of it was that after this, the issues be¬ 
ing strictly attended to and punctually 
entered, the amount of stock on hand, even 
down to the chicken house and potato 
cellar, could be told from this book on an 
hour’s notice, and the time when any spe¬ 
cial lot of goods had been received could 
be told in a moment. Miss Massinger, a& 
I have said, did not hate figures, her tastes 
rather led her to find pleasure in them, she 
saw a clearer way before her after that and 
I never heard any further allusions to the 
departed Tom and hi6 example of running 
away from the store-room troubles. Mr. 
Tatillonner, without knowing or caring to 
know how it came about, found his only 
cause of complaint removed and finds 
much to praise in the storekeeper—for she 
still holds the position, being now in the 
second year—and they have become great 
friends. Sometimes I think he is teaching 
her the higher branches of bookkeeping, 
seeing how very close they set their chairs 
together and how very long it seems to 
take them to go over one small page of an 
account book. 


The Headwaiter and His Troops. 


THE HEADWAITER. 

The headwaiter is an important officer, 
wfith forces under his command. When 
there is a banquet or a large dinner the 
guests are placed in a position of great 
peril, liable to come to grief; for there are 
they famishing; yonder, in the kitchens, 
bakeries, pantries, dish heaters, refrigera¬ 
tors and milk rooms, is their dinner, un¬ 
concerned hanging back, lying around, 
hiding away. And between the dinner and 
the guests are all sorts of obstacles and 


barriers, such as busy hands and careless 
hands, funny people and cross people, side 
interests, selfish aims, bribes, cold drafts, 
indolence, and long distances. The guests 
cannot go after it themselves, some of 
them occasionally wish they could, but 
their success or defeat in getting their din¬ 
ner depends upon the headwaiter and the 
way he manages the troops of waiters 
under him. 

If you would find the soft spot in the 
nature of the first-class headwaiter, take 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


185 


notice of his boys; observe the good con¬ 
dition they are in; how neat they look; 
how they are graded according to size; 
how promply they march to their stations; 
how well they know the bounds of their 
duties and how firmly and calmly they face 
all the odds that may be brought against 
them in the way of extra guests within 
their own stations, without being in the 
least distracted by the way the battle is 
going in other parts of the dining room; 
each man holding his own post, the com¬ 
mander alone looking over the w hole field. 

If you would see the head waiter put off 
for a moment that look of superciliousness 
as he stands at the dining room door, ap¬ 
pearing as if he were too lofty to be spoken 
to, speak to him in the same vein his 
thoughts are running in, of the whole din¬ 
ing room, not of any individual. His ap¬ 
parent superciliousness is not pride of 
place, it is anxiety. He sees tables which 
you do not, without waiters and the guests 
impatient, and he does not care for you at 
the moment, but wishes he could see 
through the walls what those absent wait¬ 
ers are doing. And, besides, he is taking 
note of various strange faces at certain 
tables, for he has his part to do in watch¬ 
ing that strangers pay for what they get, 
that beats and sneaks do not slip in and 
•out amongst respectable people unobserved. 

And, furthermore, accord to the head- 
waiter his right, which the name of the 
office defrauds him of, remembering that 
he is not a waiter, but the head of the 
waiters, the chief and superintendent of 
the dining room forces, if you wish for his 
co-operaMon, his respect and regard. 

And I do not see why you should not. 
Service is, after all, the principal thing in 
a hotel, and the headwaiter is the master 
of that branch. It makes but little differ¬ 
ence how well the feast may be prepared 
in the kitchens if it is not well delivered at 
the tables. And the headwaiter becomes 
very much of a gentleman through the 
traimng of his position and the force of 
example in his daily contact. He sees the 
contrast daily between good breeding and 


good manners and boorishness at the table, 
and he becomes a very good teacher of 
deportment and a discriminating critic of 
manners of the other employes of the 
house. It is the best proof of his own 
training that the good headwaiter, even if 
hostile towards some other employes, is 
never loud in speech and neve# makes 
himself obnoxious by violent demonstra¬ 
tions. 

The headwaiter dresses well. He is 
obliged to do so, and is entitled to receive 
a liberal salary for that reason. The well- 
paid chef wears white jackets, caps and 
apions, and light overalls, all furnished 
to him clean daily or oftener, the laundry 
work being at the expense of the house, 
but the headwaiter has no such privileges. 
For some other employes a fifieen-dollar 
shop suit of clothes may be as good as they 
need to wear, but the headwaiter cannot 
economize in that way. He is obliged, as 
part of his business, to dress as well as the 
average of the guests of the house, he is 
often a model in that respect. He must 
wear fine linen and unmaculate cravats. 
It really takes up a considerable salary 
to keep up a first-class headwaiter’s per¬ 
sonal appearance. And in regard to the 
headwaiter’s “tips” the subject is much 
mixed, for it depends upon the kind of man 
he is whether he receives much or any¬ 
thing in that way, but it is a fact that very 
few white head waiters ever receive “tips,” 
unless, perhaps in a general way, the guests 
make up a purse at the end of a season or 
at Christmas; and no man in a really first 
class position ever descends to divide tips 
with the waiters. There are plenty cf 
floating yokes and sarcasms pointing the 
other way, but they are all in relation to 
low grade houses. A first-class headwaiter 
cannot afford to sell his independent im¬ 
partiality for a “tip.” 

Some of them have remarked to the 
writer: “If I allow them to give me a 
dollar, as I used to do when I was young, 
they think they own me and they want ten 
dollars worth of favors and extra waiting 
on for it. It is all well enough for the 





186 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


waiters who can stay with them, but if half 
a dozen people at as many tables had given 
me a dollar each they would work me to 
death calling for extra attentions. No, I 
never take these bribes—cannot afford to.” 
However, as before remarked, there are 
different sorts of men in the business, and 
some n^iy be influenced by the size of the 
“tip” offered, and by other considerations 
to be mentioned further on. 

THE HEADWAITER’s IMPORTANCE. 

The degree of imporiance of the head- 
waiter varies according to the disposition 
of different proprietors, for in some hotels 
the latter likes to pass up and down through 
his dining room and circulate among the 
guests and the head waiter may have to 
take a back place. But in nearly all large 
hotels, particularly in the cities, the head- 
waiter is the head and front of the dining 
room, he is the only official the guests 
come in contact with, and with less re¬ 
straint than if ihe proprietor himself were 
present they make known their wants and 
complaints to him. There is a vivid pic¬ 
ture of the restaurant headwaiter in the 
sketch of “A Russian Restaurant,” given 
on a former page. That personage is met 
with in every European hotel, and is the 
most prominent figure in every stranger’s 
recollection of the place. He is called not 
headwaiter, but maitre-d ’• hotel. In En¬ 
gland he is frequently called manager. In 
this country he is called the inside steward 
in the European hotel or restaurant or 
club, and he is the same and his duties are 
the same as the headwaiter in the Ameri¬ 
can plan dining room. He it is that meets 
the visitors, sees them located, and if they 
are in any way special objects of attention, 
he is the one who hears their orders and 
sees that they are attended to. In Paris, 
recently, an incident occurred where two 
men in shabby clothing, in the garb of 
laborers, but with money in their hands, 
went into one of the highest-class restau¬ 
rants and would have ordered their dinner. 
The headwaiter (maitre d’ hotel) said, 
“Gentlemen, your dress prevents your 


getting any dinner here.” They would 
not be refused, but the police were called 
in and they were lawfully expelled. In 
England the law would have sustained 
them in their demand for dinner in any 
public eating house. The same would be 
the case in this country. The headwaiter 
in an American hotel knows what to do in 
such a case. He has obscure tables, lower 
end tables, middle-class tables, upper-class 
tables and exclusive tables, and he assorts- 
strangers as they come and allots them to 
their tables according to their appearance 
or their deserts generally, without their 
being at all aware of the sorting process 
they are subjected to. That is what he is 
at the door for. The dining room is a 
public one, but with a good headwaiter in 
charge no dusty, travel-stained or ill- 
dressed customer will be put to shame by 
finding himself seated among the exclu¬ 
sives at an upper table. This, however, is 
only one among the manifold duties of the 
headwaiter which requires a special kind 
of ability for its efficient performance. 

THE HEADWAITER DOES NO WAITING. 

It seems worth while to state this ex¬ 
plicitly, there being such a general miscon¬ 
ception in this regard. A person at table 
wants something and seeing the head- 
waiter standing by the door apparently idle 
motions to him and would send him after 
the thing desired; but the headwaiter can 
not go, he will send a waiter, but never 
leaves the dining room himself, unless 
there is extreme urgency. It is true we 
are speaking generally of the larger and 
more expensive class of hotels, and pro¬ 
prietors in country towns expect some¬ 
thing different, yet if the headwaiter does 
his duty even in a small house where there 
are but five or six waiters, it will be found’ 
that he does better for the guests and for 
the reputation of the house hy remaining 
in the dining room to watch; to see who 
comes in and who goes; where they are 
seated and whether taken to seats reserved 
for them or somebody else; to watch the 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


187 * 


wants of all the guests at all the tables and 
not go off on errands for a few. 

SCARCITY OF GOOD HE AD WAITERS. 

There never can be very many of the 
highest type of head waiters, the require¬ 
ments of the position are such that not 
many men combine all the necessary qual¬ 
ifications, and when a proprietor is prepar¬ 
ing to organize a force for a new hotel or 
a resort house there is nothing gives him 
more anxious trouble, if he be not already 
acquainted with his man, than the selec¬ 
tion of a headwaiter. The reasons for it 
will be apparent as we proceed. Head- 
waiters are officers in command of a num¬ 
ber of hands and it is necessary that they 
be able to govern; they are like the centu¬ 
rions of old, commanding a hundred men. 
One of the large catering jobs mentioned 
in a former page required the employment 
of 26 headwaiters; each one had 150 wait¬ 
ers under him, and each had among them 
his lieutenants and captains. One London 
firm advertised for 4,000 waiters for some 
such a big transaction and received appli¬ 
cations from 10,000, whether waiters or 
those who called themselves such. There 
are plenty of waiters, but only by selection 
from great numbers can the headwaiters 
be found. The proprietor may have his 
dining room force well organized when 
something happens that the headwaiter 
leaves and in the ordinary course with 
almost any other line of business the 
second waiter would take his place, but it 
is seldom so here. The second may be 
able, but not good-looking. It is very de¬ 
sirable that the chief of the dining room 
should be of good personal apperance. He 
is the front sign of the house; he is the 
man the proprietor puts forward to repre¬ 
sent himself in the first meetings with the 
guests; he is to give the first impressions, 
and they may be lofty or low, buoyant or 
depressing, affluent or beggarly in a great 
degree, according to the condition of the 
official who either ushers or hustles them 
into their seats. 

In the army there is a rule which shuts 


out all men below a certain standard 
height, and if it is bad for the little men, 
the rule is good for the appearance of the 
ranks on parade. Small waiters may do 
well enough, but if they run large it comes 
hard for a stumpy headwaiter to play the- 
peremptory colonel over them. Then there 
are some men able enough whose counte¬ 
nance would turn milk sour if they looked 
at it; some so self-absorbed that nobody- 
can receive good greating from them, nor 
catch their eye at table; some that look 
pallid and consumptive or pictures of grief? 
these are never chosen to stand at the din¬ 
ing room doors. Then some are built to 
be cowboys, to roam the western plains,, 
rough in spite of themselves and their good 
clothes, loud and obtrusive without deli¬ 
cacy enough to be aware of it, and these 
are out of place on the carpet, however 
well they may do to marshal a battallion 
of waiters at some great festival in the 
open fields. It is not advisable either to 
have a man with a glowing red nose and 
coarse, blotched face trying the head waiter’s 
role in first-class dining room; his will may 
be good, but he is out of place also. And, 
some who do not suffer under any of these 
disadvantages of a physical nature are defi¬ 
cient in other respects. The too-good man 
will play with his waiters and loses his au¬ 
thority by placing himself on an equality 
with them. Or he spoils them by the pro¬ 
miscuous granting of favors, the letting 
them do as they please. Others are crabbed,, 
capricious and unjust. They make rules 
one day which they change the next day. 
A waiter may be blamed and reprimanded 
by them for doing something today, which 
was perfectly right to do yesterday, and 
thus they lose their influence and useful¬ 
ness. For every sort of inefficiency results 
in injury to the hotel. Some hotels are so> 
cursed with incompetency in this depart¬ 
ment in the midst of a busy season, when 
there is no time for changes, that the busi¬ 
ness suffers perceptibly and lasting damage 
is done to the reputation of the establish¬ 
ment. And because of the narrowness of 
the gate and the strict sifting of men the 





188 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


number that gets through into the first 
■class headwaiter’s ranks is small and 
strictly first-class men are hard to find. 

THE FOREIGN HEADWAITER. 

We have in this country certain ways of 
our own of hotel keeping which may be 
better than any methods of other lands, but 
we also have hotels as well as clubs and 
restaurants which are conducted under 
foreign methods conformably to a line of 
conventionalities not to be learned in the 
American plan hotel, and it is necessary to 
the making of a thorough inside steward, 
maitre cT hotel or head waiter to see what 
sort of men they have as well as what they 
do in those establishments. In addition to 
“ Monsieur Mezzofanti” of the “Russian 
Restaurant” article, before referred to, we 
have here a sketch of another of the high 
school of head waiters: 

“Everybody knows Bignon’s restaurant 
in the Avenue de l’Opera. It is the rival 
of the Maison Doree, the Cafe Anglais 
and the Lion d’Or. One of its pi lars has 
passed away in the person of ‘Henry’, the 
head-waiter, who, being almost an institu¬ 
tion in himself, deserves a brief obituary 
notice. ‘ Henry ’ has been called the ‘soul’ 
of Bignon’s gastronomic establishment, 
and so he was. He had been there for 
twenty-six years and knew every foreigner 
and every Parisian of mark. It was inter¬ 
esting to observe the polished obsequious¬ 
ness with which he handed the menu to a 
royal or imperial guest and to contrast it 
with the more familiar manner in which 
he tried to coax the appetite of some blase 
habit u 6 by descanting on the merits of a 
new sauce, or praising the exellence of 
some special dish of the day. 1 Henry ’ 
had raised his profession of head waiter 
to the dignity of an art. He had only o le 
rival ‘ Ernest,’ the maitre d'liotel of the 
Cafe Anglais, who was also a paragon in 
attending to customers. The education of 
no Paris waiter was supposed to be com¬ 
plete unless he had learned to flourish his 
napkin, to flit between tables and to carry 
trays under th« guidance either of ‘ Mon 


sieur Henry chez B'gnon ’ or of ‘ M. Ernest,* 
of the Cafe Anglais. Waiters who could 
afford it are said to have had restricted 
meals at Bignon’s for the purpose of study¬ 
ing ‘Henry’s’ movements de visu } and it is 
quite probable that had ‘Monsieur Henry ’ 
started a conservatoire for the education 
and bringing out of garcons and maitres 
d'liotel he might have made a fortune 
thereby. Had the deceased maitre d'liotel 
been of a literary turn he might have com¬ 
piled some interesting memoirs. He ‘waited’ 
during the declining effulgence of the 
Empire, when all Paris was mad with riot 
and revelry; he attended many a petit sou- 
fer, where champagne flowed like water, 
and he must have seen many a mighty 
magnate making a fool of himself for the 
beaux yeux of some painted and powdered 
‘creature’ with an insatiable appetite for 
crayfish and an unquenchable thirst for 
choice crus.” 

And here is another: 

“Eugene is indispensable to the estab¬ 
lishments where the elite of Parisian gen¬ 
try dine. He knows all the customers, is 
acquainted with their tastes, and with their 
favorite subjects of conversation. He has 
carefully studied them, and knows whether 
to let Mr. So-and-So order his own dinner 
or whether to give him the advantage of 
his professional experience. Eugene is 
always there, and watches the first mouth¬ 
fuls disappear with a keen interest. His 
guest could not possibly begin dinner unless 
Eugene was there to put him in good dining 
humor. A short chat invariably springs 
up between Eugene and his customer. 
Eugene is gay, is amiable, and a bon vivant . 
Accustomed to live in the atmosphere of 
the most succulent dishes, and of the most 
generous wines, he seems to have taken the 
good properties of both. As soon as 
Eugene has set one customer going, he 
moves on to another. He rarely takes any 
notice of a stranger, disdaining an unfa¬ 
miliar face. If an intruder calls, Eugene 
contents himself with a sign, ‘Louis, attend 
to monsieur,’ or ‘ Casimir, the wine-iist for 
monsieur.’ There are some customers 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


189 


who will only be served by Eugene. They 
even prefer him to the proprietor of the 
restaurant, who is often obsequious and 
awe-inspiring. It is specially to high-class 
parties that Eugene is indispensable. Ac¬ 
cording to the appearance of the guests, he 
knows what menu to suggest. He has 
summed up your revel at a glance, and 
knows exactly how much you want to 
spend. He is never present when the bill 
is presented. One is always rather suspi¬ 
cious of one’s customer, and, not to spoil an 
acquaintance so well begun, he leaves his 
guest to wrangle with the waiter. The cus¬ 
tomer pays and goes away more or less sat¬ 
isfied; but he is certain to come again on 
the morrow, more attached and faithful to 
the establishment than ever. And thus it 
is that Eugfene, after ten years’ service, in a 
veritable power in the establishment, de¬ 
ferred to by the proprietor and feared and 
envied by the waiters.” 

“ He knows all their tastes and favorite 
subjects of conversation” does he? Well, 
headwaiters hardly get to that pitch of 
familiarity in this country. But much de¬ 
pends upon the kind of man he is. One 
of the present restaurant proprietors of 
Paris was started in business for himself 
through the favor of some stock broker 
customers who liked him. They told him 
of a good speculation in stocks—gave him 
a pointer—he took advantage of the in¬ 
formation, speculated and realized a small 
fortune. But the rule works both ways. 
Another headwaiter at a Paris cafe, eaves¬ 
dropping behind the chairs of a couple of 
stock brokers, thought he had picked up a 
pointer and went and speculated on the 
strength of it—for all Paris speculates— 
but it proved that he had “caught hold of 
the wrong end of the stick,” and he .lost 
his life’s savings, $30,000. How different 
his case from that of a London boy who 
was both headwaiter, cook and caterer in a 
stock broker’s office. Some shares in one 
of the large brewing companies were put 
upon the market. This boy had been for 
a good while a sort of private caterer for 
the brokers’ lunch, cooking and serving it 


in a room in the rear, making a good pro\t 
and saving his money. The brokers ap¬ 
plied for a number of shares, as brokers. 
The boy applied for a number of shares, 
calling himself a refreshment contractor. 
There were not enough shares to go 
around, but the brewing company gave the 
preference to refreshment caterers; the 
boy got his shares, the brokers did not. 
The shares increased in value immensely 
and gave the young fellow a good start in 
business. 

IN AMERICAN HOTELS. 

Tf the headwaiter of an American hotel 
is to have time to play the “ Mezzofanti,” 
the “ Henry,” or “Eugfene,” and go around 
from table to table chatting and so forth, 
trying to make every guest feel satisfied, 
it is evident he must have a lieutenant, a 
second or assistant headwaiter to remain 
at the door, and whether for that or other 
reasons most headwaiters do appoint such 
an assistant, but not all. Somebody inquir¬ 
ing of a trade paper some time back what 
were the duties of the headwaiter received 
the following reply, which we will examine 
and comment upon: 

“A headwaiter’s berth in a first-class 
establishment is no sinecure. The man 
who accepts it takes upon himself many 
responsibilities little realised by the pat¬ 
rons. He appoints one or more men under 
him who are called captains. It is their 
duty to see that the waiters arrive on time 
each morning and to put the dining room 
in order for break ftst. The silver, care¬ 
fully put away under lock and key at 
night, is recounted and rubbed with 
chamois and either placed on the tables or 
on sideboards in the dining room. The 
glassware is carefully wiped and polished. 
The linen is brought up from the laundry 
and counted to see that it compares with 
the laundress’s account. The chairs and 
tables are thoroughly cleaned and dusted. 
Windows and globes must be washed, the 
butter cut or molded into forms and the 
castors and salt cellars washed and refilled. 
Every thing must be in place before the 







100 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


arrival of guests. The headwaiter sees at 
a glance if the work has been properly 
done. He inspects the castors to see that 
fresh oil has not been put into cruets hold¬ 
ing stale oil. He lectures the men under 
him, tells them of the complaints made by 
guests the day before, and warns them not 
to repeat the offenses. He details each 
waiter to attend to a certain number of 
tables, and when the breakfast hour arrives 
he throws open the great doors of the din¬ 
ing room and greets each guest that enters 
with a familiar good morning. Regular 
guests who are hard to please come under 
his personal supervision. The guest who 
objects to drinking cofiee unless it is pre¬ 
pared a certain way and the man who will 
not eat unless served a dainty not on the 
regular bill of fare are both made happy by 
this diplomat. He convinces each guest 
that they have received a dish which he had 
prepared for them only, and he tries to 
convey the idea how few there are who 
receive the personal attentions of the chief 
of the dining room. His policy not only 
pleases but it adds to his bank account.” 

The one giving the reply starts in by 
speaking of the duties in a first-class es¬ 
tablishment, yet in several particulars 
shows that he refers to hotels of the me¬ 
dium class. He says, for instance, that the 
headwaiter details each waiter to attend to 
a certain number of tables, when it is well 
known that one waiter cannot attend to 
any great number of tables, in fact one 
waiter to one table is the rule. However, 
in times of dull business, when a few 
guests come straggling in at intervals, one 
waiter might attend to two or three tables. 

He says, also, that the headwaiter ap¬ 
points one or more men under him who 
are called captains. In fact, if the head- 
waiter appoints any captains he will have 
at least two, one for each watch; if there 
are more than two watches of waiters—as 
in a railroad eating house or a cafd there 
may be—there will be a captain over every 
watch. 

He says again that the windows and 
globes must be washed, the butter cut or 


moulded into forms and the casters washed 
and refilled, also the glassware caiefully 
wiped and polished. 

Now, all this is called side work, and it 
all depends upon what terms the waiters 
are hired upon whether they do side work 
or not, or whether they do a certain part 
and not the other part. In most, if not all, 
first-class hotels, there are regular window 
washers outside of the waiters, and the 
butter is cut and moulded by the pantry 
girl in the pantry, the glass is washed and 
polished by another hand in the glass 
pantry. It is not the intention that the 
waiters shall have idle times and the less 
to do, but it is supposed and so managed 
that they shall have all they can do at 
their proper business of waiting at table. 
Moreover, they are required to be scrupu¬ 
lously neat and clean and are not expected 
to do any side work that will soil their 
clothes. They do, however, count the 
silver at night under the eye of the captain 
of the watch, after it has been washed and 
dried in the glass pantry, and they take it 
out of the silver closet or safe next morn¬ 
ing and polish it before it goes on the 
tables. They do dust the tables, mirrors, 
sideboards and chairs, prepare the bowls 
of broken ice and do all that belongs in the 
dining room. The remainder of the quo¬ 
tation is “all so” and calls for no remark. 
The motive for commenting upon any of it 
is to say that stewards, headwaiters or pro¬ 
proprietors sending perhaps to a distance for 
first-class trained waiters and perhaps pre¬ 
paying their fares, are liable to be surprised 
and disappointed when they arrive by their 
refusal to do “ side work.” It is not in¬ 
tended to say that they ought not to do 
such work; merely to let it be known what 
may be expected of waiters brought on 
from the most prominent hotels and re¬ 
sorts. Here is another quoted paragraph 
to the point: 

“Mr. F. P. Thomson, whose resignation 
as headwaiter at the Vendome has already 
been made known through the columns of 
tha Boston Hotel Gazette, will during the 
coming winter manage what is probably to 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


191 


be the largest waiting force of men ever 
gathered in the hotel business under one 
head, in his new position as head-head- 
waiter, so to speak, at the three hotels, 
Ponce de Leon, Alcazar and Cordova, St. 
Augustine, Fla. At the first-named hotel, 
which is to open about Christmas, he will 
have under him 150 men, at the Alcazar, 
opening about Thanksgiving time, 50 men, 
and at the Cordova, to open on January 1, 
75 men. While the majority of these men 
are to be gathered from Boston, New 
York and Philadelphia, some of his head 
assistants have already been engaged.” 

It is not likely that any of the above 
mentioned force of waiters would hire 
themselves to do “side work” between their 
hours of table waiting, but amongst the 
many classed as waiters there may be some 
specially hired for “side work” employ¬ 
ment. At the same time it is to be dis¬ 
tinctly understood by waiters that in the 
great majority of smaller hotels the waiters 
do and must take off their jackets and di¬ 
vide up the work amongst them—some fill 
the castors, some wash glass, others pre¬ 
pare the celery for table, mould the butter, 
clean windows, scrub porches, even help 
in the garden, gather fruit and peas, and 
then help in the kitchen by shelling peas, 
picking strawberries and the like. Then 
again, they frequently in the advance of 
the season do all these things in the way 
of helping to save expenses while the busi¬ 
ness is dull, but drop them and quite give 
up all such work later when they have all 
they can do in a day to wait on the hun¬ 
dreds of guests. These things should be 
thought of when waiters are engaged and 
a distinct understanding had in advance. 
It may save disputes and strikes and quit¬ 
ting of much needed help at the busy time 
when it is hard to replace them with 
others. 

ORGANIZING THE TROOPS. 

The headwaiter’s duties have now been 
pretty clearly outlined, his relations to the 
steward and chef having been defined in 
the first part of this book. And the differ¬ 


ence betwixt a front view and an inside 
view may be seen by reference to the ex¬ 
tracts concerning the foreign head waiter, 
where the writers regard only the person¬ 
ality of the particular “Henry” or “Eu¬ 
gene,” his pleasing presence and his chat, 
without the least intimation in their re¬ 
marks that at the same time “Eugene” is 
chatting so pleasantly with them at their 
table, he is thinking, probably, about a 
waiter at the most remote table in the 
room, where perhaps a family just arrived 
has been seated and requires attention, 
and divide his thoughts with some other 
critical customer in quite another direction. 

waiter’s uniforms. 

The first step in organization for the 
headwaiter is to dress his waiters all alike 
—they must have jackets, cravats, slippers 
and aprons. Ordinarily they have only 
one jacket, a black alpaca with bright 
buttons, but in some of the most stylish 
houses the waiters appear in white jackets 
at dinner and black at the other two meals. 
This necessitates their owning two jackets, 
and puts the laundry work of the jackets 
upon the hotel. For the waiters have to 
buy their jackets and own them. The 
hotel buys a lot of assorted sizes at the 
manufactories where all sorts of uniforms 
are made, and each waiter when he hires 
must buy one of them and pay for it in 
installments. If the jacket cost four dol¬ 
lars the waiter, when his time is made up 
on the time book, will have one or two 
dollars of his wages stopped each month 
till it is paid for. The same thing is done 
with light patent leather slippers, the hotel 
buying them by the box and selling to the 
waiters at cost. White cravats cost but 
little and are usually furnished free by the 
hotel, as well as aprons, which both go to 
the laundry through the same routine as 
other white goods, to be counted out and 
counted in each morning, as indicated 
above. The waiters must provide them¬ 
selves with dark-colored or black pants of 
decent appearance, but at the same time 
the waiters’ aprons are made of such ample 






192 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


dimensions they almost entirely cover the 
wearer down to his bright slippers. 

TELLING OFF THE WATCHES. 

When they are all in uniform the head- 
waiter draws them up in line like soldiers 
in the dining room and assorts them ac¬ 
cording to size. The two tallest are told 
off, each to head a watch, then the next 
two and so an to the shortest, who brings 
up the rears of the two companies. After 
that each waiter has his number and al¬ 
ways takes the same place in the ranks at 
the muster before and after each meal. In 
hotels where there are many waiters they 
wear their number either on a metal badge 
or ribbon, one intention of this is to enable 
a guest to identify any waiter he may have 
to make complaint of. 

The captains of the watches are not 
choosen for their stature, but for their su¬ 
perior ability and reliability, their habitual 
punctuality and steady conduct. They 
receive one or two dollars per month more 
than the rank and file and get the best 
tables to wait on. They take their places 
at the head of the squad when marching 
to or from the dining room, except in the 
case of there being a second headwaiter, 
when he heads one of the watches and the 
captain marches in his numbered place in 
the ranks. 

There are other waiters under the head- 
waiter’s control who do not come into 
these dining room watches; they are in the 
officers’ dining rooms, nurses’ and child¬ 
ren’s ordinaries, etc. They generally are 
required to wear the same uniform and are 
inspected and governed by the second 
headwaiter or, in the largest hotels, by the 
superintendent of the particular depart¬ 
ment. In the dining room, if there be fifty 
tables in use, there will be about that many 
waiters in line in the two watches. As the 
business contracts some of the tables will 
be unused and the waiters are dismissed. 
In the greater number of hotels the waiters 
are from twenty to thirty—ten to fifteen 
in a watch. 


WATCH ON—WATCH OFF. 

Both watches of waiters wait on the 
tables every day, but only one watch does 
the side work, the cleaning, dusting and 
preparation, the late, last minute waiting; 
the extra waiting on late arrivals—that is, 
those on watch are never free all day, but 
are within call, ready for anything that 
may occur unusual besides their regular 
duties, while the others are free between 
meals, only being required to report in 
time for their own meals and for inspec¬ 
tion. In fact, however, when the hotel is 
doing a business anywhere near its full 
capacity the intervals between meals are 
very short, and the freedom does not 
amount to more than is necessary for the 
waiters to attend to their clothing and keep 
up their respectable and cleanly appearance 

The watch that is “on” to-day will be 
“off” to-morrow. The object of having 
captains is to have some one to get the 
waiters all together. The trifle of author¬ 
ity and extra pay bestowed upon the cap¬ 
tains makes them zealous and watchful of 
the others. Common waiters are dilatory 
and unpunctual; they may be fined in some 
places for punishment for being late, but 
that is poor satisfaction for the head of the 
dining room when he wants to see every 
man in his place, and it is better to have a 
captain interested in hurrying them up. 

The watch that is off to-day has to come 
early to breakfast. Almost every head- 
waiter claims the privilege of saying when 
and how his watches of waiters shall eat 
their meals, and, besides that, there is so 
much difference in hotels and their meal 
times that no rule will hold good for any 
large number of houses; yet, for example, 
let us say the “off” watch must be at table 
to breakfast by six. The “on” watch does 
not eat until two hours later, but goes to 
the dining room and there dividing them¬ 
selves to the different tasks; they dust the 
chairs, etc., get out the silver and place it; 
place the bills of fare around, bring in 
water and bowls of broken ice. The butter, 
cream and fruit are already prepared for 
them in the pantry. Fifteen minutes be- 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK 


193 


fore the time for opening the doors the 
other watch of waiters must be ready in 
the hall. The headwaiter makes his ap¬ 
pearance and the waiters in sight join those 
in the hall outside. At the tap of a bell 
both watches march in in separate squads; 
one turns to the right, the other to the left, 
they march down between the tables and 
around and form a line, still in separate 
squads, in front of the headwaiter for his 
inspections. He then calls the roll and 
marks who are absent, then notices whether 
they all have their white cravats on, 
whether their jackets are whole and well 
brushed, whether their shoes are free from 
mud, and then if he has anything to say to 
them he says it. Next, at the tap of his 
small silver bell the waiters again face 
right or left, march between the tables, and 
each one stops at his own station. Then 
the dining room doors are thrown open 
and the meal begins. 

It is the duty of the captains, while wait¬ 
ing on their own tables, still to keep a side 
look out and report breakages, the begin¬ 
ning of quarrels and the breaking of vari¬ 
ous minor rules and report them, placing 
the blame upon the real offenders. 

Supposing the dining room doors close 
at half past nine, then half an hour before 
that time, or as near that as the circum¬ 
stances will permit, the off watch takes 
charge of all the tables; the captain of the 
“on” watch passes along and gathers his 
men and they march in regular order, but 
quietly, by the outside tables and out to 
breakfast. Half an hour later they return 
in the same manner, and a few minutes 
after, or as soon as the dining room is clear 
of guests, except perhaps two or three 
whose waiter remains at his post, the head- 
waiter taps his bell and both watches march 
up to the line occupied before breakfast. 
After a few remarks the chief gives an¬ 
other bell tap and the boys file out of the 
dining room, going through the regular 
motions between tables as before; the “off” 
watch goes off until the next meal; the 
“on” watch at the sign with the napkin of 
the captain disbands at the door, peels off 


jackets and goes about cleaning (and 
thrice a week scrubbing) the dining room 
and doing the other side work. 

LET THE HE AD WAITERS TELL IT. 

There are some things about the head • 
waiter’s position which only the headwait- 
ers themselves can properly depict, and 
any one who may be in training for such a 
responsible situation may find some perti¬ 
nent hints in the following: 

“ Keeping seats for regular boarders in a 
hotel dining-room is one of the unpleasant 
features attached to a head waiter’s busi¬ 
ness. There are some persons who insist 
on sitting in one place and who won’t sit 
anywhere else. To keep an eye on these 
particular boarder’s seats and see that no 
outsiders slip into them keeps a fellow 
hustling. If some one does happen to get 
into one of these coveted seats and the per¬ 
son who claims it as his own comes in and 
finds it occupied, there is sure to be a row, 
and the poor waiter always gets the worst 
of it. I don’t blame a person for wanting 
to occupy the same seat, but there are times 
when it is impossible to keep it vacant. 
For instance, if a party of six or seven 
come in they have to be seated at one table. 
At this same table there may be, perhaps, 
four or five regular boarders’ seats, and 
when the latter come in I have to put them 
somewhere else. Then they get mad, of 
course, kick to the proprietor about the 
“shiftless and unsystematic manner” in 
which the dining-room is run, and finally 
the waiter hears from the office. Someti¬ 
mes, also a person will slip into the dining¬ 
room unnoticed by the waiter, and will 
drop into a seat nearest him. Once seated 
it is rather embarrassing to ask him to re¬ 
move, although you know that he is occu¬ 
pying a seat of some regular boarder who 
is liable to drop in at any moment. I have 
known persons to come into a dining-room 
and finding their seats occupied, go out 
again and not come back until it was vacant. 
I also knew of a case in which a man left 
the hotel at which he was boarding because 
on two successive occasions,he had entered 






194 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


the dining-room and found his seat occu¬ 
pied. Women are more particular about 
their seats than the men. They always 
want to sit where every one in the dining¬ 
room can see them, especially pretty wo¬ 
men, or young women that are well dressed. 
No, a head waiter’s life is not a happy one. 
He stands very little show in getting tipped 
like the regular waiters, because he cannot 
be of so much service to the person who 
wants extra attention in the shape of tender 
steaks, etc., and who wants to be waited on 
in apple pie order.” 

ANOTHER HEAD-WAITER TALKS. 

“Perhaps you think me wholly ornamental— 

A sort of figure-head to carry style; 

That for use I am not worth a continental— 

That I’m only here to wave and scrape and smile. 

“When you come to run a force of fifty waiters, 
Fourteen hours out of every twenty-four, 
Rushing ’round with plates of beef steak and per- 
taters, 

Feeding cranks who want the earth — and some¬ 
thing more. 

“You will understand the situation better 
And allow it’s quite an act to carry grace, 

With a waiter who’s a kicker ind a fretter, 

And a boarder snarling thunder in your face. 

‘Yes, I have to keep the mashers and the ladies 
In respective corners rather far apart; 

For the husbands sometimes take to raising hades 
With your uncle, when the masher plies his art. 

“There’s the ‘reg’lar’ from whose little cosy corner 
I must keep the bumptious transit nt, if I die; 

Rise he bridles up and surely is a ‘goner’— 

For the place is as the apple of his eye. 

“There are times when waiters get a trifle ‘nervy,’ 
And ‘the razors go a flying through the air;’ 

This would hint that a head-waiter has to serve a 
Short apprenticeship to Sullivan or Hyer. 

“At the mountains I’m engaged in the summer 
season 

And in winter I’m in balmy Flor-id-a; 

That I’m very fond of sunshine is the reason 
For, you see, sir, that’s the time for making hay. 

“ ‘Do we ever take a tip?’ sir, you inquire 
Well-that’s a curious thing for you to say 
‘Do we sometimes shift the waiters round and try a 
Little divvy scheme to help to make it pay?’ 

“Why! Of course not! We are hardly what you 
deem us 

To such little things we never, never stoop. 

Ah! Indeed, sir! Thank you kindly— Mr. Remus, 
Get the gentleman a varmer plate of soup." 


It is seldom indeed that head waiters are 
named in print. There are oceans of print 
about waiters in general, scoldings, abuse, 
jokes, sarcasms, complaints and lec ures, 
but the general public and the general run 
of writers do not know that there are head- 
waiters, and that they have much to do with 
the conduct of waiters through their good 
or bad management. Now, having paid 
my respects to the head waiters in so many 
columns, I shall have something to say 
concerning waiters at home and abroad, 
and waiters’ tips, and a head waiter, who 
wrote to a newspaper shall introduce the 
subject: 

“A head waiter referring to a recent edi¬ 
torial in this paper writes amor g other 
things: ‘Waiters are not born, they are 
just what the headwaiter makes them, 
good or bad; and what he drills into them 
whether they become proficient or not. It 
would be a good idea for head waiters to 
adopt Mr. Whitehead’s plan and that is, 
when they take charge of a room they are 
held responsible for the efficiency of the 
service, to have it understood that they 
must hire all of their help, no matter how 
small the number; if you don’t you are 
liable to make a failure of it. Make it a 
rule to be particular of the kind of help you 
hire, and don’t take a man who has the name 
of not staying more than two weeks in 
one place; the saying, and it is a true one, 
‘good waiters always tog up,’ makes it easy 
to know them. Do not be arbitrary with 
your men and pay them off on the slightest 
pretence. Give a good man a chance, and 
don’t have the reputation that a good waiter 
can’t stay with you, and that you dog them 
around to much. Treat your men courte¬ 
ously on the street when you meet them, 
but don’t be one of the crowd on the out¬ 
side, as that is just what gets away with 
you in the room.” 

WHAT THE DINING ROOM CHIEF TALKS 
ABOUT. 

It has been mentioned incidentally that 
the headwaiter has something to say to his 
men when they are drawn up in a line 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


195 


before him. This is the custom not uni¬ 
versally followed. Some headwaiters have 
litt.e or nothing to say, call it “old-fash¬ 
ioned” “don’t believe in it’’ and so on. 
Others have “the gift of the gab,” and love 
to talk even too well. It seems very 
sensible, however, for a chief having such 
a good opportunity before him to remem¬ 
ber the faults of service he may have seen 
or heard of on the previous day, and re¬ 
prove and caution his waiters accordingly. 
The following does not purport to be the 
straight continuous talk of the speaker, but 
is a selection of pithy remarks: 

“Mr. Geo. F. Betts, headwaiter at 
Young’s Hotel, Boston, gives his men a 
lecture on their duties every Monday 
morning. These are among the best 
things he said at a recent lecture: ‘The 
first requirement of a waiter is a gentle¬ 
manly bearing. No one but a gentleman 
can be a good waiter. I want to speak 
now about this habit of passing around sub¬ 
scription papers among the guests in aid of 
the sick employse. You must stop that. 
Never beg from anyone but yourselves. 
Now, in this matter of serving wines, if 
you don’t happen to know what glass to 
use for a particular wine ask some one. I 
will gladly tell you. The trouble is that 
some men can’t be told anything, They’ll 
never learn to be waiters. Now, if a per¬ 
son orders a pot of coffee, don’t bring up 
cold milk unless it is called for. Bring up 
hot milk with coffee and cold milk with 
tea. Always serve pulverized sugar with 
tomatoes, lettuce and cracked ice with cu¬ 
cumbers, tomatoes, watermelon, cantelope, 
and muskmelon. Berries of course need 
milk or cream and pulverized sugar. A 
dessert knife and fork and powdered sugar 
should go with all pastries, while a small 
piece of American cheese is in order with 
all kinds of pie. Many men never think 
of such a thing as putting mustard on the 
table. Some people like it. There are 
very few who have yet learned that a boiled 
potato is proper with baked beans. Don’t 
cover the bread plate with a napkin. It 
looks as if there was dust and dirt around. 


This matter of laughing and fooling don’t 
make a waiter. I should stop it. Never 
chew tobacco and spit on the door mats, 
and don’t gather in groups arond the corri¬ 
dors. Sleeping on watches must also be 
stopped. All cold meats ought to be garn¬ 
ished with parsley, lettuce, or celery. Be 
careful about leaving your side towels 
around. Another man comes along with 
something to wipe, and he don’t know 
whether it has been laying there for twenty 
seconds or twenty years. It is a good plan 
not to wipe your face with an apron nor 
towel, nor be too familiar with the proprie¬ 
tor. I never allow myself even to drink a 
glass of lemonade with him. Do your 
drinking in the proper place. If you don’t 
study these little things you’ll always be 
down, as sure as you’re born. Always re¬ 
member that I’m the boss, too. I’m hired to 
be headwaiter, and I mean to act it out. If 
I refuse to excuse any man for the day 
don’t make the mistake of going to the 
Captain, because I’m ahead of the Captain. 
Never open a boiled egg for a customer 
unless ordered. If you see that a guest of 
the house wishes to be waited on by a par¬ 
ticular man with whom he is acquainted, 
always give way politely and without con¬ 
fusion. A waiter should always keep his 
eyes cast toward the door instead of out of 
the window. Be careful in serving any 
kind of ‘fizz’ wines to pour them out care- 
fullv. In serving old wines never wipe off 
the dust from the bottle. Never wipe off 
the label, and be sure to show the label to 
the gentleman, in order that there may be 
no mistake. You are all supposed to wear 
dark pants, with white apron and necktie. 
No colored shirts are allowed. Your boots 
must be blacked from this day out. You 
are excused.” 

Another chief indicates his ideas of a 
talk in training waiters as follows: 

“What constitutes a good w r aiter? A 
good disposition; a thorough knowledge of 
his duties, with the quality of being polite, 
attentive and obliging at all times and 
under all circumstances; a correct idea as 
to coursing and serving dinner parties, in- 




196 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


eluding the different wines which go with 
each course. Neatness and cleanliness are 
indeed necessary passports, and argue 
strongly in a waiters favor when applying 
for a position. Waiteis are often judged, or 
as the expression goes, ‘sized up,’ by their 
personal appearance, thus ‘the apparel oft 
bespeaks the man,’ and nine times out of 
ten secures him a position. First-class 
waiters take great pride in their toilet; spot¬ 
less linens are pre-eminently one of the 
first requisites. Hair nicely combed, cravat 
neatly tied and adjusted, shoes brightly 
polished (shoes without heels; I am op¬ 
posed to slippers), and clean aprons and 
clean towels; also short and clean finger¬ 
nails; supposing jackets and trousers to be 
black or of a dark color, corresponding one 
with the other, and no rents in them, a 
waiter is presentable and qualified, so far 
as his uniform is concerned, for service. 
Nothing worries and frets the headwaiter 
more than to see a waiter come sneaking 
into the dining room five or ten minutes 
after the doors are open. A good ‘time- 
maker’ is a prize to the headwaiter. Every 
waiter in all well-regulated dining rooms, 
should be at his station ten minutes before 
the door opens, and inspect his table, see if 
everything is in its place, properly arranged 
and perfectly clean. A good waiter is al¬ 
ways pleasant, agreeable and affable; al¬ 
ways strives to please, and spares no pains 
in his efforts to give entire satisfaction. A 
good waiter will never contradict or hold a 
dispute with a guest,notwithstanding he may 
be right and the guest wrong. Whether 
he has made an error or not, he will 
invariably ‘plead guilty to the charge,’ and 
exonerate or excuse himself in such a 
manner as will be pleasing and not of¬ 
fensive. 

“ The most important feature in waiting 
is to serve an order according to order— 
no more, no less. If a guest orders for 
breakfast fried potatoes, breakfast bacon, 
soft-boiled eggs, coffee and rolls, just that 
number of dishes should be served and no 
more, and no first-class waiter claiming to 
understand his business will bring one 


dish over. A good and intelligent waiter 
keeps himself posted as to the contents of 
the bill of fare, so as to readily give the 
name or explanation of any dish thereon, 
if necessary. A good memory is highly 
essential in the make-up of a good waiter, 
and none can properly be classed as such, 
with a defective memory. There is noth¬ 
ing more provoking to a guest than to> 
order poached eggs and be served with 
soft-boiled eggs, or to order roast beef and 
be served with mutton, or to ask for 
coffee and get tea. 

“A good and conscientious waiter will 
not try to bring in the entire kitchen for 
the purpose of extracting the paltry sum 
of twenty-five cents from a guest. A 
first-class, painstaking and duty-bound 
waiter can and will accomplish this with¬ 
out resorting to such methods of extrava¬ 
gance, which are so detrimental to both 
his and his employer’s interests. He is 
polite, attentive and obliging; courteous, 
accommodating and patient; fast, prompt 
and clean, when serving a party. These 
are the qualities that enhance his chances 
for obtaining a fee, and when he obtains it 
under these circumstances he has the 
satisfaction of knowing he obtained it 
solely on his merits as a first-class waiter. 

waiters’ drill for a banquet. 

Perhaps there is no need of argument to 
show the advantage of such a moderate 
amount of daily drilling, as has been de¬ 
scribed but a few pages back. It has the 
same use for a body of waiters that it has 
fora body of police or firemen; it keeps 
them compact, makes them regular in 
habits, makes them manageable, gives the 
head man a grip upon them. It would be 
useful were it only for the muster and roll 
call to let him know they are all there. It 
is very easy to -‘run such a thing in the 
ground,” as the saying is, and as nothing 
ever escapes the funny men of the news¬ 
papers we have here an amusingly ex¬ 
aggerated sketch from an English banquet¬ 
ing place: 

“ There was nothing of an extraordinary 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


19T 


character about the dinner itself, but quite 
unusual pains were taken to drill the army 
of waiters engaged thereat into a proper 
knowledge of their respective duties. The 
following unique and novel handbill, pre¬ 
sumably distributed to them by some grim, 
scar-disfigured, veteran half-pay sergeant, 
was handed to each of the knights of the 
napkin prior to his undertaking the onerous 
and responsible duties of waiting upon the 
Gas Institute: 

REGULATIONS FOR GAS INSTITUTE 
DINNER. 

‘Waiters will be divided into two classes, namely, 
Entree Men and Vegetable Men. 

Entree Men will be distinguished by wearing a 
red ribbon in their left button holes, and Vege¬ 
table Men by a white ribbon. 

Wine Stewards will wear a blue and orange ro¬ 
sette on the top of their left shoulder. All wine 
to be paid for when fetched; money advanced for 
this purpose at the hotel office. 

Superintendents will wear white waistcoats, and 
control their tables; when quite ready for a course, 
they will signify it by holding up their right 
hands. 

Tables are divided into separate divisions; each 
table is numbered alphabetically (A B C), and 
will have a special staff appointed under the 
charge of a superintendent. Waiters are re¬ 
quested to pay special attention to his orders. 
Roll Call in the vestibule at 1.30, when each man 
must be present to answer to his name, he will 
then be shown his position at table, and receive 
his badge, after whifh he will at once take his 
position until reviewed. All waiters to be in 
their places at 3 p.m., to assist the guests to their 
seats. 

Dinner Service regulated by the sound of the 
gong. At the first sound waiters at once stand 
to attention; at the second sound to proceed to 
their respective serving tables and commence the 
course. 

Soup. —At the second sound of the gong all wait¬ 
ers will advance to their serving tables and serve 

soup. 

All waiters change plates. 

Eish. —At the second sound of the gongproceed as 
above; vegetable men must then leave the room 
and secure their vegetables. Each man will have 
a dish of peas, beans and potatoes. Entree men 
clear away dirty plates. 

Joints.— Entree men only serve jo : nts; vegetable 
men to serve only vegetables and bread. 

S wee is.—Hot pudding and sweets served together, 
from the serving tables, by all waiters. All 
change plates. 


Cheese. —Entree men serve cheese and biscuits,. 

and vegetable men lettuce and butter. 

N. B.—Immediately after dessert plates are passed 
round, and all dirty plates and silver removed, 
all waiters (except wine stewards) are to leave 
the room and attend to their respective duties, 
arranged by the headwaiter. 

Service Porters to bring in plates, meats, soups, 
etc., and to clear their respective serving tables 
after each course. During service of fish and 
joints, one porter to remain at each carving table 
to serve gravy, etc.” 

“A Liverpool journal of the semi-satir¬ 
ical Older, called the Porcupine , has the 
following amusing commentary on these 
singular regulations: 

“The military spirit having been thus 
introduced into attendance upon public 
banquets, we do not see why it should not 
be considerably developed. It would cer¬ 
tainly add immensely to the excitement of 
the dinner table, and remove in a great 
measure the ennui and monotony so often 
expecienced when waiting for the various 
courses, if a stalwart drill-instructor in full 
regimentals and ablaze with military deco¬ 
rations, were to stand in a conspicuous 
pi. ce, sound the assembly and, in stentorian 
accents, put the wai'ers through their fac¬ 
ings something after the following style: 

“Hawn—tree wait—er-r-rs! at—tintion!' 
Vege—tarble wait—er-r-rs! heyes fa—runtl 

“ Shoul—der-r-r—nap—kins! 

“Vege—tarble wait-er-r-s! present ar- 
rums-for the soup and fall in! 

“Hawn-tree waiters! Standateas^!- 

with the ladle! 

“Vege—tarble wait—er-r-rs! For—rum 

squa-a-re! Char-r-r-ge-with the new 

perta—ties! 

“Hawn — tree wait—er-r-rs! for rum 
fourdeepin-echelons! Lefthar-raf fa-a-a-cet 
-for the biled mutton! 

“Vege—tarble wait—er-r-rs! Slop ar- 

rums! Doub—bl-bl-ble-for the sparrer- 

grass! 

“Hawn—tree wait—er-r-rs! Byyourri- 
i-i-ght quick mar—rarch for the goose¬ 
berry tarts! 

“Wait — er-r-rs! At—tintion! Gur-r- 

round-dessert plates! 













198 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


“ By your cen—trrrr-re left wheeeeel- 

to the kitchen! 

“ ‘ God save the Queen ' on the gong?' 

When we are done laughing with the 
newspaper, and at it, we may turn back 
and find a most excellent example in the 
said handbill, even if it be on a somewhat 
exaggerated scale. For service is all-im¬ 
portant to the success of a banquet. The 
waiters gathered together for such an oc¬ 
casion are likely to be a mixed lot and 
many of them as green as they can be, and 
some such resolute measures for making 
them know exactly what to do and when 
are quite neces-ary to avert confusion and 
failure. A number of examples of catering 
on a grand scale have been given in pre 
vious pages and not one of them mentions 
the very important paiticular, how the 
waiters were made to understand each one 
his par icular duties on the occasion, and 
the “iegulations” above exhibited convey 
a very perspicacious guide for all such 
emergencies. The same paper says: “The 
waiters at Young’s Hotel, Boston, have 
been ‘uniformed’ in spotless white, and 
must cut rather a queer figure. The ‘cap¬ 
tains’ and head waiters are, it appears, ar¬ 
rayed in dress coats of white flannel.” 

WHO ARE THE BEST WAITERS? 

The question is often asked, but only for 
amusement or to g atify some prejudice 
by a specious answer. It must be a very 
unsatBfactory sort of generalizai ion to sar 
that waiters of this nationality or that an 
the best, or one race or another. When¬ 
ever there is one most excellent waiter of 
any particular nationality, another one can 
be found to match him of some other race 
or people. It is not race so much as train¬ 
ing. One of the very best waiters I have 
ever known was a Mexican, but I shall 
not say the Mexicans are the best waiters 
on that account. This one had been trained 
as a valet to a traveling nobleman, had 
been half around the world and spoke sev¬ 
eral languages; that is how he came to be 
such a good waiter when he had to take 
up restaurant work. 


Waiters are a good deal as the various 
head waiters they woik under make them. 
Left alone, waiters in general are like boys 
in school without a master. They take 
small liberties and seek their own pleasures 
and interests, and if that is allowed they 
take greater liberties; they run away with 
the house. Waiters have to be restrained, 
they have to feel authority over them. 
Most of them then are so docile and well 
behaved the authority has scarcely ever to 
be exerted, they do right without compul¬ 
sion. But in every crowd there are bad 
boys. Some of the bad waiters will stop 
when they meet in the hall with some¬ 
body’s breakfast or dinner on their trays 
and throw dice for the drinks on the floor, 
until they hear the steps of the next one 
coming, and then, for fear it may be some- 
b' dy in authority, they continue their jour¬ 
ney to the dining room. Such as these 
are dropped out as fast as they are found 
out; so are they that drink and use foul 
language; those who fail to come up to the 
other requirements of good waiters, also 
the weak and sickly ones who are not to 
be relied upon, and in that way it comes 
there is a dining room full of picked wait¬ 
ers, and whatever nation or race they may 
oe it seems as if they must be the best in 
the world, because there cannot be any 
better. But the headwaiter who sees sights 
is he that has to gather up all these culls 
and castaways to open a report hotel with, 
all the g od waiters being already engaged. 

There is another way to answer the 
question, who are the best waiters? that 
seems to be not often thought of. The best 
waiters for this country are they that know 
the least about the compulsory -pourboire 
or tip system of European countries, which 
has grown to be one of the greatest abuses 
of the day, a galling tyranny that cannot 
be shaken off. A newspaper was not long 
ago started in France wdth no other object 
nit to try to put down the compu sory tip 
system; it was called the Anti-Poarboire y 
and the waiters turned out several thousand 
-trong and put it down, prevented its being 
sold, mobbed the carriers, mobbed the 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


199 


newsstands that took it for sale and extin¬ 
guished the paper. 

On the other hand, some four or five 
years ago the waiters of New York orga¬ 
nized for a purpose quite opposite the Pa¬ 
risian waiters’; they organized to fight the 
tip system—the waiters themselves on this 
side wanted to do away with tips! How 
was that? 

That move was taken because there are 
more than the waiters concerned in the 
abuse of tips. It has got to such a pitch in 
France, England and all over Europe that 
the waiters get no pay in some places, but 
have to work for the tips they will extract 
from the customers; in some places where 
the chances are poor they get small wages; 
but in others where the chances are good, 
where the customers are mostly wealthy 
people, where a good many American 
tourists stop and throw money around 
loosely—in such places the waiters not 
only work for nothing, so far as wages are 
concerned, but they even pay for the privi¬ 
lege of working; give the proprietor thirty 
per cent, of the tips they receive and con¬ 
tribute another portion to pay for the 
breakage that takes place in the establish¬ 
ment. There are a good many places in 
New York where waiters are employed, 
whose proprietors are of the same class 
with the same ideas as the restaurant, cafd 
and hotel keepers over the water and they 
wanted to do the same ways; wanted the 
waiters to work without wages and live 
on their tips; but the waiters liked the old 
way best and struck against the attempt to 
change it. That is why they were in favor 
of putting down tipping. Of course, they 
all knew that tipping would go on as it al¬ 
ways does in this country, in a free-will 
manner; they struck against making it 
compulsory for a guest to give them some¬ 
thing or else be ill-served, asked for a fee 
and made to feel small and uncomfortable 
b 7 them. 

waiters’ wages and tips. 

Those New York waiters, no matter 
what race or nation they were of, “knew 


which side their bread was buttered on,” 
as the old saying is, for while tipping goes 
on quite liberally in this country if it is left 
to the givers; that is, if Americans are let 
alone and allowed to give tips as favors to 
those they like and want to reward, they 
would hardly yield so much if the waiters 
were compelled to take on the eager, 
hungry, anxious look, and had to touch 
their caps and hold out their hands in order 
to make wages out of their jobs, because 
that is not the way of this country, and 
would make the tip seem like a debt to be 
paid instead of a favor bestowed, and it 
would not be very generally submitted to. 
A little way back there is a quoted para¬ 
graph concerning a number of waiters go¬ 
ing to the large hotels in Florida, and the 
same paper says further down: “The 
salaries for waiters are to be $25 per month, 
with an addition of $4 on the basis of the 
premium system. They will probably 
leave the North in a special car in No¬ 
vember.” 

We all know about how wages run, but 
it is well enough to let somebody else say 
it, too. That is first-class wages paid for 
first-class waiters. The common rate for 
summer resort waiters averages $18 per 
month; that is, the range is from $15 to 
$20. In the generality of hotels between 
seasons or for all-the-year jobs, waiters are 
hired as low as $12 per month, or from 
that to $15. In any of these places the 
waiter hopes he will make something be¬ 
sides, every waiter expects to make some¬ 
thing, yet it is very uncommon for the one 
who engages them to talk about tips as a 
part of the bargain, or to make a business 
of the tip question. Of course, this does 
not refer to restaurants in the eastern cities 
which have foreign proprietors and waiters 
following their own ways, but to the gen¬ 
erality of hotels and restaurants all over 
the states. The probable tips may be 
thought about, but there is no sort of pro¬ 
mise made to the waiter that he will get 
any, and no advantage to the proprietor if 
he does. And still the tips secured by good 
and lucky waiters amount to something 




200 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


considerable. Here is a waiter at work 
who is sure of a steady tip every week: 

CHERUBS AT THE HOTELS. 

There is something uncanny about these 
mature children of the town. I was at the 
Windsor Hotel at dinner with some friends 
a short time ago when a pompous little 
woman strode down the long dining room, 
followed by two little girls, hand in hand. 
Neither of them was more than 9 years 
old. They settled themselves in their 
chairs, folded their skinny little hands, and 
then proceeded to stare about them and 
comment upon their fellow-diners. The 
elder of the two children, after looking in¬ 
tently at a maiden lady of rather noticeable 
attire at an adjoining table, turned to her 
mother and said composedly: 

“What a really startling old frump that 
is, mamma?” 

“Which one, dear?” asked the strict dis¬ 
ciplinarian of a mother. 

“That cheerful guy beside the bald- 
headed man over there.” 

“ Oh, yes,” said the mother, with a well- 
bred smile, “ I’ve seen her before. But 
don’t be so slangy, Marion. Have more 
tone. Order your dinner now and see that 
you let puree and lamb alone. It’s too rich 
for you.” Then to the waiter: “Take her 
order, Auguste.” 

The waiter leaned obsequiosly over the 
child, who was studying the menu with a 
frown on her little face. 

“No soup, Ogeest,” she said intently, 
“but a bit of weakfish with egg sauce, an’ 
a kidney omelette—not fiat, you know, but 
nice and puffy—and artichokes-” 

“Ver’ sorry, Mees Maryon, but there is 
no arti-” 

“There, I thought so,” said the girl, 
slamming the card down on the table and 
biting her thin lips. “ It’s the most pro¬ 
voking thing! Whenever I set my heart 
_ 11 

“We have some green corn-” 

“ Eat it yourself ! ” said the child in a 
huff. 


The waiter was quite unmoved. He 
seemed to be accustomed to such ebulli¬ 
tions of temper and went on suavely taking 
the orders of the others, while Miss Marion 
sat the picture of overdressed, pampered 
and pouting discontent. 

Now, whoever wrote that piece for the 
newspaper was thinking about the poor 
little children, wanting to train them for 
their mother, but we will just take notice 
of “ Ogeest.” He has got as good a thing 
as he wants for one table and never gives 
a second thought to the behavior of any¬ 
body. He will get what that family wants 
if he has to beg for it in the kitchen, coax 
for it, buy it, steal it;, and every Sunday or 
Monday morning he finds “Mees Mar- 
yon’s” little hand held out to him with a 
five dollar bill, probably, or two or three 
silver dollars, at least, and when the family 
goes away there will be a parting fee of 
larger amount. If “Ogeest” is fortunate 
enough to have four such parties to wait 
on and get his American plan wages be¬ 
sides, he is certainly doing very well. And 
he doesn’t care whether the children are 
well-trained or not. But some young men 
are so constituted that they cannot take 
such “sass” without resenting it in some 
way. Perhaps they have not been raised 
right. Anyway they are not adapted to be 
waiters. 

Contrast the fat condition of the waiters 
thus far mentioned with those of the Edin¬ 
burgh, Scotland, International Exhibition, 
a couple of years ago: The waiters en¬ 
gaged to pay the resfreshment contractor 
ten shillings ($2.50) a week each for the 
privilege of working for him without 
wages, and then he printed in his bill of 
fare that the prices there set down in¬ 
cluded attendance , which meant nothing for 
the waiters. Here it is as it appeared in a 
newspaper, but without the long bill of 
fare, which is unnecessary: 

Rough on the Waiters. —The head- 
waiter at one of the Edinburgh hotels sends 
us a rather indignant protest against the 
terms on which his brethren are engaged 
at the Exhibition now open in the Modem 










THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


201 


Athens. He points out that the conditions 
under which the waiters work leave them 
but one alternative if they are to make a 
living at all, and that is to overcharge the 
public. The refreshment contractor, it ap¬ 
pears, receives a weekly payment from 
each waiter, and yet makes attendance an 
inclusive charge in his catering tariff. Un¬ 
less liberally tipped they are likely to be 
losers, and their chances of pocketing fees 
are to a great extent extinguished by the 
intimation that attendance is included in 
the bill. Scotchmen, who of coui'se con¬ 
stitute the great majority of visitors to the 
Exhibition, will probably find this intima¬ 
tion very comforting, and will scarcely see 
the force of paying twice for services ren¬ 
dered. We subjoin the form of agreement 
subscribed to by the waiters: 

[Cof>y :1 

“I,.. hereby engage myself as 

waiter to you at the International Exhibi¬ 
tion of Industry, Science and Art, Edin¬ 
burgh, 1886, and to pay to you, for the 
privilege of serving you, ten shillings per 
week, at the end of each week. I will re¬ 
ceive my food at the Exhibition on every 
lawful day, when open, but I will provide 
and pay for my own lodgings, and for my 
food on Sundays. I will make good any 
breakages in my department, also any cut¬ 
lery or plate that may be lost or damaged, 
and will be entitled in my own name to 
recover from customers any breakages 
which they may be responsible for. All 
sums recovered for breakages shall be spe¬ 
cially set apart in a box to be provided 
therefore, and paid over to you when re¬ 
quired. I will be liable to dismissal on a 
moment’s notice, without reason assigned 
or compensation given, and I will be en¬ 
titled to leave on a days notice, having first 
accounted to you for breakages and any 
moneys that may be due by me.—Witness 
my hand this .... day of.” 

That is the condition of affairs which the 
New York waiters banded together to keep 
out of this country; but the Parisian wait¬ 
ers fought to uphold it, for the simple reason 
that there was no hope for them to get 


wages, and if the tips which they depend 
on were abolished they would starve. So 
we will say again, the best waiters for this 
country are those who have the least of the 
old-country tip system in them. 

LONDON WAITERS. 

The waiters over there have a good way 
of not despising small tips. Little sums 
and a good many of them are what counts 
up big at last. The way it is here one per¬ 
son will give perhaps half a dollar, then a 
dozen others will go out without giving 
anything because they cannot afford to 
give a half and they are ashamed to offer 
less, they think perhaps the waiter will 
insult them if they offer small change, so 
they don’t give anything. A London 
waiter tells his experience, which shows 
that even pennies count up in a week. He 
was a “greeny ” in some respects, though 
he had a good idea about waiting. He got 
into a small restaurant where there were 
only two waiters, himself and another. He 
went for sixty cents a week wages and 
“what he could pick up” and his dinner. 
Sixty cents a week is so near nothing it 
would seem like a mistake was made in 
telling it, if we did not know that many of 
them go to work for no wages at all and 
pay the proprietor besides. Even in this 
cheap restaurant it was the custom for each 
person that ate dinner or lunch to pay the 
waiter two cents “ for service,” and some 
paid three cents. They were not really 
obliged to pay it, but it is the custom of the 
country and most of them did in this res¬ 
taurant. The green fellow soon found out 
that his partner was playing sharp on him, 
letting this one do the waiting and he w’ent 
around and collected the pay and kept all 
the tips. After they had had a fight over 
that they agreed to divide the dining room, 
one took one side, one the other. It ap¬ 
pears they served about 100 dinners a day, 
besides the other meals and lunches, that 
was 50 customers apiece, and if each one 
gave the waiter an English penny, which 
is two cents, that made them a dollar a day 
apiece, or seven dollars a week. And the 







202 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


one telling it says they did do as well as 
that, for when he got his rights and his 
partner could not cheat him, he says his 
pay amounted to twenty-five English shil¬ 
lings a week, which is over six dollars. 
That is not much wages, but it shows how 
small tips make a considerable sum in a 
week; they make more than the odd quar¬ 
ters and halves do that only come from a 
few. 

American tourists generally are ashamed 
to give small tips, this is the way they do: 

“The American tourists who invade 
England every summer are in the habit of 
carrying back a grievance which is largely 
of their own creation. At every turn one 
meets them complaining that ‘in England 
one has to give so much money to all the 
servants — it’s perfectly dreadful,’ while 
they themselves are the only people who 
ever do anything of the kind. The well- 
traveled London correspondent of the 
Chicago Tribune makes the following re¬ 
marks on the pretentious liberality of his 
countrymen, which hotel-keepers who are 
brought so intimately in contact with them 
will read without surprise: 

‘•I have known an American lady who 
gave the man who tended the hotel lift 
half a crown daily and half a sovereign 
weekly. I knew a vulgar old American 
who gave gold to every servant on all occa¬ 
sions. And then, after making fools of 
themselves in that way, they go home and 
report that the Prince of Wales and the 
Archbishop of Canterbury are the only 
two men in England who will not take a 
tip. I have heard of an American who, 
when on the steamboat at Liverpool about 
to return to America, thus addressed the 
assembled crowd: ‘Gentlemen, if there is 
one of you to whom I have not given a 
shilling I wish that he would hold up his, 
hand.’ But it was very filly of him. I 
have lived eleven years in England, I know 
both English and American society fairly 
well, and I can assure the untraveled 
Yankee that he need not give away a six¬ 
pence in the year more in one country 
than in the other. It is only where the 


raw, green Americans have been that the 
servants are spoiled in this respect and 
made grasping and overfamiliar.” 

But Americans are not the only ones. 

“The following clipping is from the jour¬ 
nal known as Men and Women: ‘The busi¬ 
ness of a waiter at the Star and Garter, at 
Richmond, must be a somewhat profitable 
occupation if there are many guests like 
Mr. Henry Irving, who, on the frequent 
occasions on which he dines there, tips the 
waiter with a sovereign. This came out at 
the Wandsworth County Court a few days 
ago, when one of the waiters at that famous 
hostelry sued a brother of the napkin for 
refusing to go halves with him in the mag¬ 
nificent ‘tip’ bestowed by Mephistopheles. ,,r 

It was in London that ten thousand wai¬ 
ters replied to one advertisement which 
shows that there are all classes and styles 
of waiters there, and tens of thousands that 
learn waiting as a trade and follow it up 
all their lives. 

Some way back may be found descrip¬ 
tions of the ways of checking and paying 
in various places, but the London restau¬ 
rant system has not yet been mentioned, it 
is this: 

THE LONDON CHECK SYSTEM. 

“When a waiter enters the service of the 
principal London restrarateurs he has to 
bring with him ten dollars for ‘working 
money,’ as it is called. He pays this in to 
the cashier and gets ten dollars worth of 
meal checks for it. Whatever is ordered he 
pays for at the kitchen with checks. He is 
provided with a blank tablet which has 
manifold or copying paper between the 
leaves, and thus writing the bills in dupli¬ 
cate, he tears one out and gives it to the 
customer, and receives the customers mo¬ 
ney, and the copy remains in the book. 

When business is over for the day, the 
waiter takes his book containing the dupli¬ 
cate bills to the office, together with what¬ 
ever remaining checks he has; the totals 
of the different bills are then added up, and 
the grand total must correspond with the 
amount of checks used by him during the 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


20$ 


day. Should the total be more than the 
checks, the inference is that he has over¬ 
charged somebody, and he must immedi¬ 
ately refund, whatever the amount is, to 
the firm or leave. He, of course, generally 
chooses the former alter, ative. If, on the 
other hand, the total should be anything 
less, he has the satisfaction of knowing 
that he has lost it, and supposing either 
that somebody has gone without paying 
their bill when his back has been turned, 
that he has given too much in change, or 
that, in the rush of business he has given a 
three-shilling check for a threepenny, 
which, seeing they are marked pretty much 
alike, is not improbable. Three shillings 
and sixpence (nearly $1.00) per week is 
charged each man for glass breakage, and 
the firm I speak of pay no salary to wait¬ 
ers; indeed, few restaurateurs do, and 
where they do it is but a mere pittance. 
What a waiter mainly depends on for his 
living is his tips. His makings, assuming 
that he works fifteen hours, average as a 
rule from five to seven shillings per day 
($1.25 to $1 75) and considering the great 
disadvantages under which he labors, and 
remembering that he has to bear a smiling 
front through it all, this is not after all such 
a fabulous sum. Of course it is only right, 
and proper too, that a large firm like the 
one I have spoken of should have such 
strict rules; but I have shown that the 
waiter’s lot, any more than the policeman’s 
is not always a happy one. 

THE “TWO BY FOUR.” 

By the return call of the electrical 
system, with tiny bells, the guest can tele¬ 
graph all ordinary orders to the kitchen 
and receive answers both of the sonorous 
and the solid sort with the speed of light¬ 
ning. 

It is a mistake, however, to suppose that 
there is anything in this more like magic 
than the practice of the most expert of 
human waiters at the great resorts, where 
waiters as well as guests are counted by the 
hundreds, and therefore cannot be individ¬ 
ually known nor very perfectly watched. 


It is doubtful if the new automatic waiter 
will ever come up to the sleight-of-hand pro¬ 
ficiency of the human waiters who do such., 
neat tricks as that which they call the two- 
by-four, by which they sell the employer’s- 
goods for him and returning perhaps 
the cost price, putting all the profit in their 
own pockets, and make the employer think 
that he has been watching them at the 
same time, exactly as a slight-of-hand per¬ 
former does upon the stage; and this is only 
one of the many tricks which the automatic 
waiter can never do. In a large restaurant 
the waiters must buy with their own money 
the dishes ordered at their tables, paying 
for them at the cashier’s desk, half way 
between the dining-room and the kitchen. 
Spring ckickens are charged at seventy-five 
cents for single orders, but two orders are 
$1.25 and four orders at once are $2.50. The 
waiter goes to the kitchen with four dishes 
and orders four chikckens, gets them, and 
starts for the cashier’s desk, but when he 
arrives there he has only two chickens; he 
shows them, pays for two, and starts for 
the dining-room. When he gets there he 
has four chickens, as he had when he left 
the kitchen. He sells them and clears 
$1.25 by the opera ion. Like all those 
conjuring tricks it is easy enough when one 
knows how it is done. In the first passage 
the waiter sticks a chicken in each breast 
of his jacket and turns the empty dishes 
upside down on the remaining two on his 
tray, “to keep them warm, because his 
customer ordered them so,” and in that 
style appears at the cashier’s desk. In the 
next passage he replaces all as they were 
before. 

AMERICAN HOTEL CHECK SYSTEM. 

A novel check on both visitor and waiter 
is in use at one of the American hotels. 
On entering the dining room a boy hands 
the guest a card, upon which are printed 
amounts up to about $2.00. On one cor¬ 
ner is the consecutive number stamped 
upon it by an automatic numbering ma¬ 
chine. When the visitor gives his order, 
this ticket is taken away by the waiter, and 







:204 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


when the latter receives his order at the 
kitchen the card is returned to him with the 
amount punched out. If anything extra 
is ordered, another sum, representing the 
aggregate of the two orders, is punched 
out, and the customer pays the total sum 
punched at the desk. The consecutive 
numbering denotes the day of issue. 

PARIS WAITERS. 

There was another thing the Paris waiters 
went out on strike about besides the Anti- 
Pourboire newspaper. It appears that they 
all go to employment offices when they 
are out of work and have to pay to register 
and pay for a job when they get it. They 
found out that hundreds of small employ¬ 
ers, stewards and headwait^rs were going 
shares in these fees, and would discharge 
their waiters frequently without cause, 
only to make a profit out of the fees the 
new waiters would have to pay to get the 
jobs. They struck against working in any 
of these houses or letting others go in. 
When that trouble was settled they formed 
waiters’ associations, where employers 
could apply when they wanted help, and 
paid no more fees to employment agents. 
While they were out on strike indeed they 
made the abolition of the employment of¬ 
fices one of their demands, and, like the 
New York waiters, they wanted the es¬ 
tablishment of regular wages for waiters, 
and not have to depend on what they could 
“pick up.” They complained that besides 
not being paid any wages they were only 
allowed to keep one-third of the tips given 
them, the proprietor getting one-third di¬ 
rect and another third was taken from 
them to pay breakages; no matter who did 
the breaking the tip money had to pay for 
it. This system is too deep rooted, how¬ 
ever, and the waiters did not succeed in 
breaking it up. It began long time ago in 
the palmy days of the Palais Royal gar¬ 
dens when the crush was so great that 
waiters made perfect fortunes, and in con¬ 
sequence the proprietors, turning this to 
advantage, sold the waiters jobs at from 
■$400 to $1,000 per year, and still the wait¬ 


ers realized splendid competencies. But 
that time is past. Such times occur at 
some of our pleasure resorts, when the 
waiters find greenbacks plenty for a short 
time, but it only r lasts a few weeks. 

DISCIPLINE IN PARIS RESTAURANTS. 

“The discipline of the waiters at the Cafd 
de la Paix is very strict. Every waiter 
has to be at roll-call at 7.30 a. m. under 
pain of iod. fine for every five minutes he 
is late. Boots may not be worn by any 
waiter in the establishment. It is forbidden 
under pain of dismissal or a heavy fine to 
give change to a customer in instalments. 
The maXtl'e d hbtel has the right to satisfy 
himself by calling at the residence af a 
waiter who may claim dispensation cn the 
p'eaof Hckness, whether the man is really 
ill or not. Each waiter has to pay $1.00 
on every $20 worth of drinks he takes, as 
a percentage on the four-boires . Waiters 
have a holiday, jour de sortie , every fort¬ 
night. The tables are alotted according to 
their business value in order of their seni¬ 
ority. Every new waiter, or any waiter 
returning to work at this cafe after absence 
has to begin at the bottom and gets the 
worst tables. These are some of the regu¬ 
lations at this cafe, and that they are good, 
if strict, is proved by the admirable discip¬ 
line that obtains there.” 

ACCOMMODATING WAITERS. 

“ It is a remarkable characteristic of the 
waiter - in Paris restaurants that, no matter 
what anyone asks for, even if it should be 
“a fried piece of the moon,” those gentle¬ 
man-like attendants will invariably' reply 
‘Yes,’ and either bring it, or, on returning, 
assert with sorrow ‘that unfortunately 
there is no more left.’ A well-known Gov¬ 
ernment official tried this joke recently, 
when he ordered the waiter to bring him 
‘a sphinx a la Marengo .’ ‘But I grieve to 
say we have no more, monsieur,’ replied 
the waiter. ‘What, no more sphinx?’ ex¬ 
claimed the Minister of the Interior, feign¬ 
ing astonishment. The waiter lowered his 
voice, and murmured in a confidenital w'nis- 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


205 


per: ‘We have some more, monsieur, but 
the truth is I should not care to give them 
to you, as they are not quite fresh.’ ” 

“Dr. X. breakfasts every morning at a 
New York restaurant. One day he ob¬ 
served the waiter limping about painfully. 

“Have you got lumbago?’ he asked sym¬ 
pathetically, ‘or rheumatism ?’ 

“I don’t know, sir, but I’ll just step into 
the kitchen and see. I don’t think there’s 
sl scrap left of either.” 

TRICKY WAITERS. 

Waiters who have to work under such 
disadvantageous conditions as those the 
Paris waiters struck about are driven to all 
sorts of schemes to get even. This is one 
way, as a correspondent tells it: 

“It is notorious to all habitues of this 
dancing-salon, and in the Quartier Latin 
generally, that the waiters invariably either 
overcharge, or else return deficient change. 
I speak from experience, as I generally do. 
I have been overcharged or have had defi¬ 
cient cha 7 ige given me, no less than fifteen 
times. Sometimes the sum wanting has 
been a franc, sometimes more, sometimes 
less; but I have never once been served at 
the Bal Bullier without having to point 
out some mistake when my change was 
handed me. And as, on purpose to con¬ 
vince myself, I have tried every waiter in 
the place, and found them all alike, I can 
come to no other conclusion than that 
these mistakes are a system. One waiter 
confessed as much, saying the times were 
hard, that he had to work all night, and 
would earn next to nothing ligitimately, 
etc.” 

Another one says: 

‘ One of the tricks of the waiters in the 
Parisian resaurants, is in bringing change, 
to cover over either a gold or silver piece 
with the copper money. As the customer 
usually waves away the grosser bullion 
with a contemptuous gesture, the waiter 
gets the hidden coin into the bargain. 
Another trick is to cover over a gold coin 
with the bill, on the chance that the custo¬ 
mer will not lift up the slip of paper.” 


But if we begin to look up the tricks of 
waiters we shall find as many on this side 
the ocean as the other: 

“ ‘If I should discover a system to prevent 
waiters from robbing guests,’ said Paul 
Bauer recently, ‘I would pay well for the 
information. Proprietors of large summer 
resorts are all an.N»ious 1o solve this perplex¬ 
ing problem especially those who pay 
small salaries.’ 

“When guests order two or more portions 
they are seldom served their full order 
although they pay for it. The writer sug¬ 
gests that Mr. Bauer and others interested 
auction off their present stock of crockery 
and order a series of special dishes to be 
known as Protective Crockery. On plat¬ 
ters and vegetable dishes intended for single 
portions stamp or paint ‘one portion’ on 
the sides or rim of the dishes before they 
are glazed. 

“For two or more portions the same sys¬ 
tem may be followed, but, of course, on 
platters a size larger. If the notice was on 
the center of the dish the food would hide 
it, and it would not be seen until it was too 
late to correct a mistake. 

“Dishonest waiters would, of course, 
attempt to beat the system by hiding double 
portion dishes in convenient places. They 
would also try to bribe the dish washers 
and others handling the plates. Very bold 
waiters might attempt to use a dish taken 
from the dish baskets, but a little watchful¬ 
ness would easily foil them. These dishes 
as soon as washed, might be placed under 
the care of the chefs. They would see that 
the right portions were placed on the pro¬ 
per dishes, and the check clerks would 
easily prevent cooks and waiters from 
standing in with each other. 

“City hotels using the half portion sys¬ 
tem might protect their patrons by adopt¬ 
ing this system.” 

BERLIN WAITERS. 

“ I fancy all the good waiters leave Ber¬ 
lin, and that none but poor ones stay be¬ 
hind. One meets with excellent German 
waiters in middle-class English houses, and 
never, as far as my experience goes, in 







206 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


Berlin. On the other hand, in the first- 
class hotels and restaurants in Berlin the 
waiters are models of attentive politeness 
and intelligence. I think the way it works 
is this: Smart men intending to adopt the 
profession of the serviette , do an appren¬ 
ticeship in Berlin, and then start on a grand 
tour through the capitals of Europe, learn¬ 
ing languages and perfecting themselves 
in the difficult art of serving and satisfying 
all sorts and conditions of men. When 
they have acquired these qualifications, 
they return home and get go d places at 
once in first-class houses. I had a chat on 
this subject with the head waiter at Ihe 
Prince Heinrich Hotel in the Dorotheen- 
strasse, and he told me he had been to 
Naples, Rome, London, and Paris. He 
could speak all these languages perfectly. 
One thing he told me which I found of 
interest, and which was that it is nowadays 
a matter of almost absolute impossibility for 
a German waiter to get a berth in Paris, and 
that he left because his French colleagues 
made his life intolerable for being what 
they were pleased to call ‘un sale Prussien!’ 

“There seems, it is true, but very little 
inducement to a good waiter to remain in 
a Berlin catering house, unless as Zahl- 
kellner (cashier who receives all tips and 
divides them), or at a good hotel, where 
distinguished foreigners and distinguished 
tips are the order of the day. I interviewed 
a waiter at a representative establishment, 
and he told me his wages came, after all 
deductions for breakage, washing, etc., to 
less than $4 a month, and that his tips 
never exceeded $20 a month at the most. 
He said the food he was supplied with was 
so bad and scanty (soup at breakfast, a 
plate of meat and vegetables for dinner, 
coffee at four, and Aufschnitt , or bread laid 
over with sausage or cheese, for supper), 
that he had often to buy food outside. All 
the beer he took from the establishment he 
had to pay for. Twenty or twenty-five 
dollars a month, at the outside, including 
board, seems to be the average lot of the 
German waiter in Berlin, and a very poor 
lot it is.” 


A GERMAN BARON AS A WAITER. 

“I was dining with a friend at one of the 
most noted restaurants in London—not a 
hundred miles from Regent Street. We 
had a most attentive waiter, whose face 
seemed very familiar to me, and all through 
the dinner I was puzzling my brains as to 
where I had seen the man before. ‘Fritz/ 
I said (all German waiters in London an¬ 
swer to the name of Fritz, and all English 
ones to that of George), ‘your face is very 
familiar to me; where have I seen you be¬ 
fore? Were you at the Criterion?’ ’No, 
sir,’ he answered very quietly, ‘ I met you 
in Berlin at dinner, when you and Mr. B— 
dined with Herr Engel.’ It flashed across 
me in a moment who the man was. I said, 

‘ Why, you’re the Baron von G-.’ ‘The 

same,’ he replied, half sadly, half comically, 
‘the same, minus the mustache.’ I shook 
hands with him, and thought to put both 
of us more at our ease by adopting the 
same half facetious tone with which he had 
greeted me. So I remarked that I was 
glad to congratulate him upon the genius 
which he displayed in his new avocation, 
for, I added, ‘I might have known there 
was good blood in you, for I was never 
waited upon better in my life, and I am 
one of those who believe that no one can 
do anything better than a gentleman if he 
really gives his mind to it.’ The Baron 
was flattered, and said that no one who had 
not dined could properly know how to 
wait. ‘I,’ said he, ‘have so often noticed 
and sworn at the shortcomings of waiters 
th&t it is a strange thing if I did not know 
how to wait decently myself.’ Every Ger¬ 
man who is down on his luck can trace the 
cause of his misfortunes to Bismarck, and 
my waiter friend was no exception to the 
rule. He was one of seven sons (all narons, 
of course). Two had managed to get on 
tolerably well; one being colonel of a crack 
Prussian regiment, while the eldest looked 
after the ancestral acres. My waiter friend 
had been living on his wits for a good few 
years, the slender income from that source 
being eked out by an allowance of 1,000 
marks (about £250) from the elder brother. 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


207 


Finally the income of the landed proprie¬ 
tor became so curtailed on account of Bis¬ 
marck (how I did not quite understand), 
that the younger baron’s allowance had to 
be stopped. Now, it is very hard to main¬ 
tain baronial dignity on £250 per annum; 
but when it comes to maintaining the said 
dignity upon nothing at all, the task is be 
yond even Teutonic shrewdness. So the 
baron turned waiter, and a brother of his 
(also a baron, of course) followed his ex¬ 
ample. Both came to England, as being 
the less likely to meet those who would 
recognize them.” 

HOW WAITERS FIGHT DUELS. 

“The Tunes correspondent at Vienna 
states that two waiters' found themselves 
under the necessity of fighting a duel. The 
seconds seem to have been but little skilled 
in the use of firearms, for in loading the 
pistols one of them managed to fire his off, 
which carried away one of his fingers and 
wounded the other second in the face. 
The principals, having thus vicariously had 
some experience in the use of firearms, 
found their valor oozing out of their fin¬ 
gers’ ends, and expressed themselves per¬ 
fectly satisfied with this vindication of their 
honor; they hastened to shake hands and 
to convey their seconds to the hospital! 
Bob Acres could not have been more 
valiant.” 

FEMALE WAITERS. 

It is said that the Bouillon-Duval restau¬ 
rants of Paris employ about 8,000 women, 
of whom over 5 000 are waiters in the 
many different establishments belonging 
to that company. We have seen in a pre¬ 
vious page that these women waiters re¬ 
ceived tips, the two or three-cent tips cus¬ 
tomary in that country. But the fact that 
they received about $12 a month regular 
wages besides is significant, when the men 
waiters do not get any wages, for it shows 
the same there as in the thousands of hotels 
that employ girl waiters in this country, 
that women never get as many tips nor as 
large ones as men. If it were really an 


object to abolish tips altogether, it could 
be done easily by employing girl waiters 
only. People will not give to girls as they 
will to boys. Girls do not know how or 
have not the boldness to extort tips from 
unwilling customers, or punish those who- 
do not give with neglect and lofty disdain. 
They do not generally know how to get 
the hardest and toughest steaks and the 
oldest and driest biscuits and shoot them 
down on the table with their faces turned 
another way, not to see whether the non¬ 
tipping offender can reach them or not. 
Some of the girl waiters get along a good 
way towards learning these things, but 
they lack thoroughness at it; they are timid, 
their dreadful revenges are all small andi 
the culprits laugh at them, when they 
would not dare to laugh at the boy waiters, 
and go off without tipping the girls just the 
same. But the great majority of girl wait¬ 
ers never expect tips and never try to ex¬ 
tort them. They have their favorites to 
whom they show partiality at the table, 
but it is not often that the prospect of tips 
is at the bottom of this partiality. Never¬ 
theless girl waiters do in some places make 
a good deal in the way of tips. They get 
their regular old bachelors, judges or doc¬ 
tors, permanent boarders, who put down 
a dollar or two for their waiter by the side 
of their plate punctually every week, and 
their harvest is at Christmas, when, if no¬ 
body gives the girl waiters tips at other 
times, there is sure to be a shower of 
Christmas gifts for them. Occasionally 
.there will be rivalry between two or more 
favorite girls, each one has her partisans 
among the boarders; and those at her table 
after subscribing themselves will gather all 
they can from others trying to make up 
the biggest purse for their favorite waitress. 
At such times the presents run up to fifty, 
eighty or even a hundred dollars for each 
one. 

Among the recommendations of girl 
waiters, which causes them to be employed 
all over the North in the quieter and 
smaller-sized hotels, one is that they can 
generally be hired for lower wages than 







208 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


boys. Another very important one is that 
they change about less and seldom or 
never go on strikes, though instances of 
the girls striking have been recorded where 
they were persuaded into it by men. 

It is a common thing in England for fe¬ 
male waiters in hotels to serve high-class 
dinners, so far as the several courses go, 
but at the same time a butler attends to 
the serving of the wines. In this country 
“Phyllis” never reaches a very high or 
dignified position as a waiter. But they 
seek her for places where drilled and uni¬ 
formed waiters cannot be afforded, because 
“Phyllis” is neat and cleanly without a uni¬ 
form. Says one: “Everybody knows the 
greasy-handed, grimy-cuffed and g.imy 
shirt-fronted individual who pants and 
‘blows among the chops and steaks,’ and 
everybody as a rule avoids him. Better 
far a neat-handed ‘Phyllis’ than a male 
waitei redolent of mutton fat and insen¬ 
sible to the charms of soap and water.” 

.NEW YORK WAITER GIRLS. 

■“The custom of employing pretty waiter 
/girls in the restaurants in lower New York 
increases. They bring a certain class of 
patronage, but the patronage is not a very 
(lucrative one to the proprietors of the res¬ 
taurant. The men who frequent the re¬ 
spectable restaurants where waiter girls are 
employed are usually small clerks with 
small salaries, but high aspirations, who 
smoke cigarettes and spend all the way 
from fifteen to twenty cents at their lunch¬ 
eons. To them it is an experience of wild 
and lurid excitement to be waited upon by 
jpretty girls. They feel that they have done 
a brash and manly thing and never return 
'from the restaurants to their shops without 
telling their brother clerks of the ‘ mash ’ 
they have made at the restaurant. In the 
larger eating houses, where big dishes are 
served and where it requires activity, con¬ 
siderable endurance and deftness to wait 
upon customers, girls have been found un¬ 
suitable, but in the dairies they quite fill 
the bill.” 


Commercial Traveler (to waitress): “So, 
then, you are my waiter, are you? what is 
your name, is it Mary?” 

Waitress: “Indeed not—my name is 
Pearl.” 

Commercial Traveler: “Oh, then I 
suppose you are the pearl of great 
price?” 

Waitress: “No, I am the pearl that 
was cast before swine.” 


A DINING ROOM JUNO. 

A Boston lady who returned from the 
White Mountains last week told the His¬ 
torian about an interesting experience that 
she had when she went there. She was 
greatly taken on the train going to the 
mountains with a young woman on the 
seat in front of her, who was in form, in 
face, in bearing, a veritable Juno. During 
the long ride she built many airy castles of 
imagination around the form of this god¬ 
like young person. She tried her on as a 
society queen, but she looked rather too 
sweet and unwordly for that. She tried 
her as a countess traveling in the United 
States, but she didn’t seem exactly foreign. 
The lady couldn’t make anything else of 
her than a princess—an ideal princess, 
traveling incognitio. 

By and by her sojourning place was 
reached and what was her delight to see the 
beautiful young woman alight and go to 
the hotel where she herself stopped. 

“Now I shall have an opportunity to 
know Her, perhaps, or find out who she is,” 
said the lady to herself. 

That night at dinner the Boston lady 
seated herself at the table, began peering 
about among the guests to see if the one 
who had charmed her so completely on the 
train was there. Suddenly she heard the 
voice of the waiter-girl over her shoulder: 

“Soup, ma’am?” 

She looked up at the girl. Heavens and 
earth! It was her Juno, her princess of the 
journey from Boston! 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


209 


THE PENNS YL VAN I A-DUTCH WAITRESS. 

“Ter bodatiss iss all.” 

This remark was made by a rosy- 
cheeked, black-eyed dining room girl in a 
most excellent Pennsylvania Dutch inn, 
in a Lancaster county village. I had just 
called for another baked potato. 

“Is all!” said the dining room girl with 
a smile and a shake of her head. 

“All,” said I, “all what?” 

“Ter bodatiss iss all,” answered the girl, 
impatiently, and with a suspicion of con¬ 
tempt in her tone, “iss all.” 

A native, with the whiskers of a patri¬ 
arch, came to my rescue. 

“She means ter haind’t no more alretty. 
Ter all.” 

And thus I learned that the Pennsylva¬ 
nia Dutch never say anything is “gone.” 
If the bar runs out of beer, the beer is “all.” 
When the sauerkraut barrel is empty, the 
kraut is “all.” But there is one thing that 
is never “ all.” That is pie. If seme thrifty 
and hearty Dutch citizen should ever ask 
for pie, and word should go back to him 
that there was no pie, the relations between 
him and his host would at once become 
strained. But the necessity of asking for 
pie seldom exists, either at tavern or farm 
house. At a Pennsylvania Dutch inn the 
waiter doesn’t disturb your tympanum 
with: 

“ Mincerapplepierpud’n ? ” 

She fetches in the pie at the proper time 
and places it before you. Not only pie, but 
a whole pie; and not only one whole pie, 
but sometimes three or four whole pies, all 
of different kinds. The black-eyed girl 
with rosy cheeks who knocked me out by 
telling me that the potatoes were “all,” 
placed four uncut pies on the table imme¬ 
diately afterward. There was a cheese 
custard, a cranberry tart, a sweet potato 
custard and a snitz pie. No matter how 
many pies there are on the table every 
guest is expected to help himself to each 
one as his inclination and capacity prompt 
him. There is always enough. The only 
thing that is short about Pennsylvania 
Dutch pies is the crust. 


THE MISCHIEF OF PRETTY WAITER GIRLS. 

[From the St. James Gazette ] 

Though the soup may be clear and the fish may be 
good, 

And the lamb and the sparrowgrass tender, 

How on earth can a person attend to the food 

That attendants so fair to him tender. 

Though each dish be success, and the menu com¬ 
plete, 

And the table could not be laid neater, 

Yet I languidly let fall the spoon irt the sweet, 

Since my thoughts turn to something far sweeter. 

Though the Glessler right up to the Prim of the 
glass. 

Like a souffle of diamonds be creaming, 

It looks dull when I glance at the eyes of the lass- 

That just over my shoulder are gleaming. 

No, give me the waiter’s thick hands and white tie. 

When I wish to persistently gobble. 

For I can’t feast my mouth when I’m feasting my 
eye, 

Nor digest when my heart’s on the wobble. 

GIRLS ON A STRIKE. 

“A rather funny and somewhat unusual 
strike is reported at a Swampscott (Mass.)i 
summer hotel. Nineteen table girls struck 
for an advance of 50 cents a week. It 
seems there was a ball at the house, and 
after it was over the girls appropriated the 
ice cream that was left, but the proprietor 
put in an appearance and took it away from 
them. The girls resented this and asked 
for an advance, which was promised them.. 
Fearing that the proprietor would not keep 
his word, they submitted a paper to him by 
which he was to bind himseif to retain 
their services until the close of the season. 
This he refused to do, and went to Boston 
after breakfast to procure new help before 
lunch. In his hurry he boarded the wrong 
train, and before he knew it he was on his- 
way to Salem. Here he set himself right 
and was soon on his way to his destination,, 
where, after considerable difficulty, he se¬ 
cured enough help, temporary and perma¬ 
nent, to serve the lunch. The matter cre¬ 
ated no little stir among the guests, who 
sided with the girls, claiming that the ice 
cream belonged to the guests, who paid for 
it, and that the proprietor went too far m 
the matter.” 







210 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ANOTHER STRIKE OF WAITRESSES. 

“ One important strike up in the Read¬ 
ing coal region I haven’t seen anything in 
the papers about,” said Samuel Royer, of 
Ashland, Pa., “and that was the strike of 
the hotel kitchen and dining room girls of 
Ashland. The new men that the Reading 
Railroad Company are sending in there to 
take the places of the striking employes, at 
first went to* the different hotels to board. 
There wasn’t a girl working at any of the 
■public houses who did not have a sweet¬ 
heart among the strikers, and they held a 
meeting and resolved that they would not 
cook nor wait on any of the men who 
came in to take the places of the striking 
sweethearts. The landlords were notified 
of the decision, and informed that they 
must close their hotels against the ‘scabs’ 
or get other help. The landlords couldn’t 
see how they could refuse to accommodate 
the men, and every hotel girl in the place 
quit work. It was impossible for the land¬ 
lords to get other help, and the result was 
that the hotel keepers gave in after one 
day of the novel strike, and gave the new 
men notice that they must seek quarters 
elsewhere. The girls then resumed work. 
Proceedings were then taken by the rail¬ 
road company to punish the hotel keepers 
under the law for refusing to accommodate 
their men. Then the hotel keepers agreed 
to take the men in again, but they put up 
their prices so high the men could not 
stand it, and went to boarding themselves 
in the car sheds.” 

RESPECT INSTEAD OF MONEY. 

Well, but girls rarely strike or even strike 
back when an unkind remark is levelled at 
them. And it must be said in partial ex¬ 
cuse for their not reaping a fair share of 
tips that it is largely on account of the re¬ 
spect of man for woman that they suffer 
in that respect. A good many are afraid 
to offer them money lest it may insult 
them. There are some men waiters, as a 
writer remarks, “who look so much like 
archbishops, and behave in such a stern 
and stately manner that the inexperienced 


visitor is overawed and would not have the 
timerity to offer them less than a dollar for 
a tip.” When it is a “Juno” that is so 
encountered, who goes about her duties 
with such dignified reserve that she 
scarcely seems to see anybody even while 
she is scrupulously attentive, then nobody 
dares offer her anything at all. It is said 
some of the White Mountain “school 
marm” waitresses at the summer hotels 
do refuse to take tips that are offered to 
them. The question then arises: What do 
they do when the customer leaves a half 
or a dollar under his plate and goes out, 
and never looks back to see whether Juno 
picks it up or not? Do the Junos sweep 
up all such dollars with the crumbs and 
throw them out of the window? 

COLORED WAITERS. 

The great majority of all the waiters in 
the United States now are colored men, 
and the number is steadily increasing. A 
white waiter at a meeting a year or two 
back pointed out to his fellows that the 
colored waiters had got possession of three- 
fourths of the waiter work of the hotels in 
this country, and they were in a fair way 
to get hold of it all. While this is a true 
statement it is remarkable when it is re¬ 
flected that it is only about forty years 
since colored waiters were unknown out¬ 
side of the southern states. The recent 
death of John Lucas, the colored head- 
waiter of the great United States Hotel 
at Saratoga, (who died worth $60,000) and 
the extensive newspaper mention which 
his death occasioned, has brought to light 
the fact that some of the aged waiters now 
living can name the men who first em¬ 
ployed colored waiters in New York res¬ 
taurants in 1846. The waiters employed 
in the immense hotels of Saratoga now are 
all colored; they are in the majority in 
New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Balti¬ 
more, St. Louis, and in all southern cities 
they have almost exclusive possession. 
They make the best of waiters and are 
learning better yearly. At present they 
have to be recruited from a rough and 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


211 


uncared-for class to a great extent, from 
the boot blacks, scrubbers, sweepers, and 
farm and garden laborers, and many “hard 
cases” are found among them, but at the 
same time, in all the cities where the col- 
lored element is found in great and increas¬ 
ing numbers, the schools are turning out 
thousands of half-thought, half-polished 
young men who are almost entirely shut 
out from learning trades, and who come 
crowding into the waiters’ ranks, finding 
there a species of occupation for which 
they are well fitted. It is likely, therefore, 
that these colored men are the coming 
waiters of this country, and that in the 
course of time the field will be left to them 
entirely. In the South they occupy all the 
ground as it is. Proprietors and other 
employers go South yearly who are re¬ 
solved not to employ colored help, but al¬ 
most invariably they have to abandon the 
resolution. The colored hands are there 
ready for anything. Guests find colored 
waiters more meek and obliging, less re¬ 
sentful and indifferent than white waiters. 
It is not long before changes take place 
and the colored hands get possession in 
spite of the previous intentions of the em¬ 
ployers. Looking at it without prejudice 
it will he found that the colored boys have 
great advantages to fit them to be good 
waiters. An immense number of them 
have to begin life as house boys, as servant 
boys in the private houses of the South, 
and they get service and waiting, neatness, 
obedience and civility trained into them 
insensibly. Tens of thousands of these 
colored boys, while they are yet children, 
earn their subsistence by helping their 
mothers in private service, and get a pre¬ 
liminary training in w r aiting at private 
tables. These turn out to be hotel waiters 
without experiencing much difficulty. An¬ 
other immense advantage of the colored 
boy is his freedom from over-sensitiveness. 
His feelings are not very high strung. He 
is used to the badinage tf his own class. 
Colored people can revile each other and 
call opprobrious names to an extent that 
the most irascible white man would never 


think of, but such abuse does not strike in; 
it rolls off the colored brother like water 
off a duck’s back, and if he gets a rebuff at 
table he comes back smiling and says: 
“ Now, Cap’n, I think you didn’t ought 
talk so bad to me; ain’t I treated you the 
very best I can? Ain’t I been a real gen¬ 
tleman to you? Now, boss, if there’s any¬ 
thing else you like to have jest say it and 
if it’s in this house I’ll get it sure.” Then 
“boss” or “cap’n” laughs and throws him 
a tip, and thinks more of “the boy” than 
ever he did. Whether this submissiveness 
is going to continue as the race becomes 
better educated nobody can say, but it is an 
advantage to the colored boy at present, as 
it makes him the opposite of these com¬ 
plaining London waiters, who suffer ap¬ 
parently more in their mind than in their 
body. Says one, reporting the words of 
an address: 

“The men to whom they sought to render 
assistance were exposed to many sorrows 
and troubles, dangers and difficulties. Some 
left homes perhaps of sorrow, to attend to 
the wants of others, and were obliged under 
the most depressing circumstances to look 
cheerful and pleasant. In addition to this, 
the waiter had to put up with many a scold¬ 
ing from those he waited on. He con¬ 
tended that in many instances the waiter 
was a far more gentlemanly individual 
than the one he waited upon.” 

And another: “Yet it must be acknowl¬ 
edged in all fairness that the waiter has a 
great deal to try him in the course of the 
day, and, if it were not for the expectation 
of liberal fees, it is probable that his nerves 
and his temper would give way far oftener 
than they do at present. It is the easy- 
mannered, the quick, quiet, respectful, and 
very long-suffering attendant who reaps 
the largest tips as a general rule.” 

And another: “There is but little ques¬ 
tion that of all the people under the sun 
the waiter is the most abused; and be a 
man ever 60 placid in temperament, the 
word ‘waiter’ has only to be mentioned 
and he flies more or less into a fury. 
Everyone who frequents hotels and restau- 





212 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


rants (and who does not?) denounces the 
waiter—the choleric man becomes more 
choleric, and the cynic more sneering and 
sarcastic, and the waiter, flouted, scorned 
and detested on all hands, leads what may 
be called a far from particularly happy life. 
For thinly-veiled insults, for biting sar¬ 
casm and jeering sneers, and, more often 
than not, for downright bullying, the waiter 
must return politeness and meekness, and 
if, like the oft-quoted worm, he should dare 
to turn, he risks the double loss of situation 
and character.” 

For this reason: “The dinner hour is 
a time when the guest is apt to be pleased 
or displeased with little things. There is 
an abrupt way of placing a salt-cellar on a 
table which is annoying; and no diner 
worthy of the name enjoys having his food 
thrust before him as if he were a wild beast 
at feeding-time at the Zoological Gardens.” 

Such are samples of the sad complaints 
the white waiters have to make, and every 
word they say is true. Surely it is an ad¬ 
vantage to the colored man that his skin is 
so thick these stings and arrows do not 
strike through, but he laughs through it 
all, and the man who dines goes away 
cheerful, too, and is not haunted by re¬ 
morse. 


SCENE—CITY RESTAURANT. 

First Client (in a hurry): “Waiter, fried 
sole.” 

Second Client (in a hurry): “Waiter, 
fried sole; iresh, mind!” 

Waiter (equal to the occasion, shouting 
down tube): “Two fried soles —one of ’em 
fresh!” 


TROUBLES COMMON TO ALL. 

It is often remarked that waiters must 
above all things have good memories. The 
possession of a good memory itself, how¬ 
ever, does not account for all the feats of 
a good waiter who carries in five or six 
persons’ orders, comprising between two 
and three dozen differe' t dishes differently 
cooked, and does not make a mistake in 


one, though the obtaining of all may have 
taken him half an hour. There are plenty 
of men who can do everything else about 
a hotel, however seemingly difficult, who 
cannot take orders and remember them as 
far as the kitchen to save their lives. A 
good.waiter was asked one day how he 
managed to charge his memory that way 
in spite of all the rush and noise in the 
kitchen. Said he: “I remember the order 
by repeating it over until I get my dishes; 
if it is six beefsteaks and two of them rare 
cooked, I get six steak dishes out of the 
hot closet and putting two at the bottom I 
say to myself, those two are for rare, the 
four on top are well done. I get four deep 
dishes for fish in cream, and so on, and 
once I get the dishes right I never can for¬ 
get what they are there for. What breaks 
up the best of us is to come out and find 
all the difehes dirty and no spoons or knives 
to be had, and while we are hunting around 
we forget half our orders and have to guess 
at them.” 

THE TYRANNY OF THE CHEF. 

Another trouble common to all waiters 
is to be learned from this, making a little 
allowance for the exaggeration of the 
sums named: 

“ One of the best waiters in a wellknown 
down-town restaurant attended to the 
wants of a reporter on Thursday with a 
discouraged air. He spoke slightingly of 
the beef, and feelingly remarked that he 
couldn’t recommend anything except the 
salads. A choleric gentleman sat near the 
reporter, and the latter was astonished to 
hear the waiter advise him to try roast 
beef. In the restful pause that always 
waits upon the coffee the waiter was 
invited to explain his seeming incon¬ 
sistency. 

‘I had a row with the chef this morning/ 
he said, ‘and I know that all the poor cuts 
are in store for me during the rest of the 
day. I wouldn’t bring you something 
that wasn’t good, you know.’ 

‘But you advised the red-headed gentle¬ 
man to try beef.’ 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


215? 


‘The red-headed gentleman is opposed 
to tips, and so I haven’t any special interest 
in his stomach. A waiter’s life is not a 
happy one, and sometimes it is rendered 
miserable by little bickerings among the 
employes in the kitchen. Our wages are 
only $30 a month and meals. If we are 
on friendly terms with the headwaiter he 
leads all the generous patrons to our tables, 
and if we are not it is a mere stroke of 
good fortune if we get a tip. Some of the 
waiters make from $2 to $4 a day besides 
their wages, while others don’t make a 
dollar extra.’ 

‘What does the headwaiter earn ?’ 

‘Oh, he frequently makes $200 a month. 
His wages are $50 a month, and the wait¬ 
ers are obliged to give him a percentage of 
all the tips they receive. There are about 
thirty waiters employed here, and it is a 
poor day when $5 isn’t turned over to him 
by the waiters at night. I have known 
him to receive $10 at the close of a day. 
He has little influence over the kitchen, 
and in a case like the present, where a 
waiter is on bad terms with the people in 
the kitchen, he is apt to lose some of his 
best customers because he cannot get good 
meat for them. Some of the waiters pro- 
pitate the chef by treating him frequently, 
but this is expensive, and few of us can 
afford it. It is to our advantage of course 
to lose the customers who do not tip us, 
and I could spare the red-headed gentle¬ 
man without a pang.’ ” 

WANT OF BATHS AND DRESSING ROOMS. 

Another trouble which all experience is 
the neglect of proprietors and stewards in 
many places to provide bath-rooms, wash¬ 
rooms, dressing-rooms and lockers for the 
waiters. The greatest possible stress every¬ 
where is laid upon the necessity of waiters 
being clean in person and clothing, but 
frequently there'are no conveniences what¬ 
ever for washing and bathing and no places 
to leave a jacket or clean apron when it is 
not in use without risk of its being stolen. 

The best of modern hotels have help’s 
quarters fitted with plain but ample toilet 


accommodations and these leave the wait¬ 
ers no excuse for being untidy. 

A FEW TYPES OF WAITERS. 

I. 

There are incoherent waiters, 

And waiters who are rough; 

Apologetic waiters 

And waiters who are tough. 

There are waiters quite forgetful 
And absent-minded, too, 

And waiters always waiting 
For that little tip from you. 

II. 

There’s the waiter at Delmonico’s 
With his blank, Parisian stare, 

Who calls the butter beurrey , 

The potatoes fome de tare , 

Who comes with supercilious air 
In answer to your call, 

As if it were an honour 
To notice you at all. 

III. 

There’s the absent-minded waiter 
Who is always in a flurry, 

And who brings you currant jelly 
When you call for chicken curry; 

Who pours the sugar on your meat, 

The salt into your tea, 

And finally reduces you 
To abject misery. 

IV. 

The apologetic waiter, 

With his sweet, eternal smile: 

Who lays his head upon one side 
And rubs his hands the while, 

Who is “really very sorry 
That we haven’t that to-day,” 

And who thinks it “Quite unfortunate^ 
That it’s cooked in such a way.” 

V. 

There’s the large and clumsy waiter 
Who is always very slow, 

And is forever stumbling 
Wherever he may go; 

Who drops the butter on your coat 
With great proficiency, 

And crowns you with the muffins 
With extreme dexterity. 

VI. 

There’s the thin and sporty waiter 
Who never takes your hat, 

And makes a bowling alley 
Of the table you are at. 

Who rolls the dishes down on you 
Regardless of their falls, 

As if you were a nine-pin 

And they were bowling-balls* 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


■2U 


VII. 

There’s the waiter at the seaside, 

With his life of gilded ease; 

He’s the one who’s always waiting 
For those customary fees. 

He will starve you to submission 
If his tip you should refuse, 

But treats you like a monarch 
If you give to him his dues. 

VIII. 

There’s the shabby-genteel waiter. 
Whose clothing never fits; 

Who always brings your change to you 
In five and penny bits; 

And who also serves your dinner 
In sections, plate by plate, 

And sets it down before you 
Like an avenging Fate. 

IX. 

There’s the waiter that’s attentive 
And exceedingly polite, 

Who sees that what you order 
Is served exactly right; 

Your merest wish anticipates 
With such a cheerful will; 

Though you mean to tip a quarter 
He often gets a bill. 

X. 

He’s the waiter that’s successful, 

For he does his work so well 

That in certain length of time 
He owns his own hotel; 

And stands beside the cashier’s desk 
And looks with lordly air 

Upon all the other waiters 
Who are waiting for him there. 

New York World. 


RUM OMELET STRAIGHT. 

“Tired” Customer (in restaurant) — 
Wait’r, a (hie) rum omelet! 

Waiter—Yes, sir; with er without eggs? 


JUST A PLAIN WAITER. 

“In Washington you can get a highly 
seasoned and not entirely objectionable 
compound of Terrapin, in exchange for a 
moderate fortune, served up with Saratoga 
chips and a grand flourish by a haughty 
waiter, who will ostracize you socially 
afterward if you forget to give at least a 
.dollar for himself. But walk into one of 
ithe right places in Baltimore, hang your 


hat up carelessly, and quietly follow these 
respectful suggestions: ‘Po’tion o’ tar’pin? 
Yezzah. Some nice sullery? Yezzah. 
Brown chips? Yezzah. Pinter Perry 
Juray? Yezzah!’ and in about five minu¬ 
tes you will have a feast fit for the gods.” 

didn’t make it that time. 

“In his entertaining book, ‘The Ambas¬ 
sadors of Commerce,’ Mr. Allen tells the 
following little story: The Saracen’s Head 
Hotel, Lincoln, was noted for three things: 
a very gruff landlord, a very cheeky waiter 
and ‘365.’ The latter term being a syno¬ 
nym for the very best rice-pudding I, or 
anyone else, ever tasted, and as it was pro¬ 
duced every day in the year, we christened 
it ‘365.’ I can vouch for it being on the 
table twice a month for twenty-two years, 
and always good alike. I may add that if 
half a dozen w r ere required they were al¬ 
ways forthcoming. But it is of Arthur the 
waiter I would speak. It was often suspected 
that this swallow-tailed, modest-looking 
garcon was guilty of removing the decan¬ 
ters, and especially the small black bottles 
of crusty, ‘bee’s-wingy’ old port before they 
were quite empty; this was especially no¬ 
ticed by a Mr. Thomson, a sharp-witted 
‘commercial,’ who on the day in question 
hinted the fact to the president. It was a 
rather large dinner-party, and Arthur was 
in unusually good form. A pint of old 
port was ordered and emptied; the bottle 
was partly refilled with salt, pepper, cay¬ 
enne, mustard, Worcester sauce, chili 
vinegar, anchovy, etc. ‘Bring the bill, 
Arthur,’ said the president. ‘Yes, sir!’ and 
as usual Arthur hurriedly took off the black 
bottle. The company waited some time, 
but no Arthur and no bill appeared. 
Whereupon the ‘vice’ was asked to ring 
the bell. In came‘Buttons.’ ‘Tell Arthur 
to bring the dinner bill at once,’ said the 
president. ‘Please, sir, he can’t; he’s 
nearly dead, he’s choked.’ The gentlemen 
at the table became alarmed, hurried out of 
the room to find poor Arthur in a most 
painful position. He was black in the 
face, and sorrounded by his fellow-servants. 







TIIE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


21 


On his recovery he solemnly promised 
never again to test the quality oi leavings 
in the black bottle. 

A WAITERS VALENTINE. 

“It is prosaically addressed to ‘Sally at 
the Chophouse, 4 and bears date Feb. 14, 

1799: 

■“Dear Sally,—Emblem of thy Chophouse ware, 

As broth reyiving, and as White Bread fair; 

As Small Beer grateful, and as pepper strong; 

As Beef Steaks tender, and as fresh Hot Hearts 
young- 

As sharp as Knife, as piercing as a Fork, 

Soft as New Butter, white as fairest Pork; 

Sweet as young Mutton, brisk as Bottled Beer, 
Smooth as is Oil, juicy as Cucumber ; 

As bright as Cruet, void of Vinegar. 

Oh, Sally, could I turn and shift my Love 
With the same skill that you your Steak can move, 
My Heart thus cooked might prove a Chophouse 
feast, 

And you alone should be the welcome guest. 

But, dearest Sal, the flames that you impart, 

Like Chop on Gridiron, broil my tender heart, 
Which, if thy kindly hand beri’t nigh, 

Must, like an unturned chop, hiss, burn, and fry, 
And must at last, thou scorcher of my soul, 

Shrink, and become an undistinguished coal!” 

A waiter’s wife. 

“Bertha Stuckart, wife of a waiter in 
Vienna, Austria, won a prize for her 
beauty at the exhibition of beautiful women 
at Spa, Belgium. Her husband sold her, 
'by mutual agreement, to a rich bachelor 
for a considerable sum, and now she has 
•obtained a profitable engagement with a 
museum proprietor to make a tour of the 
world.” 

STUDENT WAITERS. 

A watering-place correspondent says: 
“Passing through the dining room of a 
summer hotel one af ernoon I saw the 
headwaiter, a fine, handsome young man 
from one of our New England colleges, 
reading Virgil with several of his assistants 
the pretty waitresses, who in other places 
are school teachers, and very likely in col¬ 
leges themselves. I thought of the Hotel 
Zum Anker at Coblentz on the Rhine, and 
a young man I met there—a German Baron 
I think he was—and with whom I talked 


of America and American hotels, and es¬ 
pecially I told him of the student waiters 
in our summer hotels. He expressed great 
astonishment, and said he had heard of it 
before, but never had been able to bring 
himself to believe it. His incredulity was 
all the more surprising, as he himself was 
a clerk at the Hotel Zum Anker. I must 
give him the credit of being an excellent 
clerk, who never seemed to forget that 
though he was a baron he was yet the 
hotel clerk, and so discharged his duties 
just as faithfully as though he had not 
been possessed of so hair-splitting a turn 
of mind.” 

IN THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

’Twas at college first I met him, 

There competing for a prize; 

And he gave his deep oration. 

All his soul within his eyes. 

’Twas a masterpiece, in Latin, 

Full of feeling, fire and thought, 

Rich with wild poetic fancies 
Thro’ the phrases interwrought. 

And his proud young face shone on me 
And his clear young voice rang loud, 

Leaving in my ear an echo 
O’er the plaudits of the crowd. 

Thus I listened, thrilled, enraptured, 

Hung on every ringing tone, 

Till the heart within my bosom 
Beat for him, and him alone! 

On my breast I wore his colors, 

Love’s sweet tribute to his fame; 

And while thinking of him ever 
To my heart I called his name. 

And we met again—’twas summer; 

I had waited long and well. 

I was down beside the seashore, 

Stopping at the Grand Hotel. 

Seated all alone at dinner, 

Wrapped in serious thought was I, 

When a voice, so deep and tender, 

Murmured, “Peach or lemon pie?” 

Then I looked up, pale and trembling, 

There “he” stood within my sight, 

In a waiter’s badge all shining, 

And a waiter’s apron white. 

He had hired there for the summer, 

And his wild, poetic heart 

Now was strugling through the mazes 
Of a dinner a la carte. 






216 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


So I turned me coldly from him, 

With a sad and sobbing sigh; 

After all my weary waiting 
All I said was “Lemon pie!” 

That lady went back the next year and 
found he had become a majestic headwaiter 
like this: 

“Mrs. De Timid (at Grand Hotel table) 

_I beg pardon, but didn’t you say you 

were presented to the queen during your 
tour abroad? 

Prima Donna—‘Yes madam.’ 

‘And you spoke of other experiences of a 
like nature.’ 

‘I was presented to several of the crowned 
heads of Europe, talked with many of the 
great generals and noted diplomats and 
was granted an audience.’ 

‘Weren’t you scared?' 

‘Not at all.’ 

‘Then if you are not afraid, I wish you 
would tell the headwaiter that this salt box 
is empty.’ 



A TREASURE OF A WAITER. 

“A tight pair of light pants, a shirt of 
which the bosom shone like a bald head, a 
Rhine-stone collar-button which fastened 
an immaculate collar to the aforesaid shirt, a 
black alpaca round-about and an apron that 
just escaped the floor, and inside of all a 
human being, and you have our new 
waiter. With the exception of an embry¬ 
onic moustache his face was devoid of hair. 
He had had several years’ experience, he 
iaid, as a waiter, and it was with a feeling 


of pride,, to say nothing of relief, that the 
ieadwaiter saw him take his place in the 
centre of the room and await the rush that 
always occurs at high noon. One by one 
ables were filled, and finally not a seat 
there was to be had. The new waiter passed 



noiselessly from one table to another, tak¬ 
ing the multitude of orders with the utmost 
complacency until he reached the end of 
his station. ‘At last I’ve got a man that 
can take care of my customers in a proper 
manner,’ chuckled the proprietor,, as he- 
gazed with pardonable admiration on the 
new man awaiting his turn at the order- 
lift. His satisfaction was short-lived, how¬ 
ever, for all at once the new waiter began, 
giving orders in a voice suggestive to the 
bellow of a bull, and that, too, in a verna¬ 
cular that was strangely new to the Bro¬ 
therhood Restaurant: 

‘(i) Give me a stack o’ whites with a 
copper on (2) a terrier without shamrocks,. 
(3) some hen’s fruit that an’t over ripe, (4) 
a slaughter-house and a paralyzed Mick, 
(5) a cup of coffee on crutches, (6) two 

















THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


217 


insults to a square meal, (7) one Sheeny 
destroyer and a soaked bum, (8) a brown- 
stone front, and (9) return good for evil.’ 

A cry from the kitchen followed, and 
the carver ran upstairs saying the chef had 
fainted. The new waiter was summarily 
bounced and an old hand sent to get the 
orders anew, which having done, he trans¬ 
mitted to the kitchen as follows: 

‘(1) Give me a plate of wheat cakes well 
browned, (2) corned beef without cabbage 
for one (3) a plate of fresh fried eggs, (4) 
steak and a boiled potato, (5) a cup of coffee 
half mi.k, (6) two dishes of hash, (7) a plate 
of roast pork and pickled beets, (8) pork 
and beans for one, and (9) change this 
potato for a good one.’ 

This is what the new waiter meant , but 
he had had too many days’ experience in 
the shady part of town.” 

TRIALS OF THE WAITER GIRLS. 

“Cranks,” said the girl waiter, “always 
blossom out in their full glory when they 
•eat. Some of them never know enough to 
give an order and five minutes after it is cook¬ 
ing will want me to change it. Of course 
I can’t do it. Then there is the young 
man who is inclined to be spooney and 
indulges in any amount of soft nothings, 
forgetting that I have not let this leap year 
pass without getting an iron-clad engage¬ 
ment, and if my fellow attempts to go back 
on his vows I will make it too warm for 
him to live. But there is one kind of crank 
that is the meanest of all—the one who 
comes in with a friend, and when he sees 
anything his friend has ordered that pleases 
him deliberately appropriates it. This 
always creates bad feeling, and the blame 
falls on me. I thought I would get even 
with one of this kind last night, and 
checked him up an extra quarter. But I 


fai’ed. He traded checks and paid his bill 
and went out, and his patient friend caught 
the large sized check.” 

WAITERS’ CHRISTMAS. 

(Chicago Hotel World.) 

Mr. Plummer, headwaiter of the Mil¬ 
lard, Omaha, received a costly manicure 
set from his waiters. 

Mr. O. H. Lane, headwaiter at the Ho¬ 
tel Worth, Chicago, besides other gifts, re¬ 
ceived about $40 in hard cash from the 
guests of that hotel. The side-waiters also 
fared well. 

Ms. Albert E. Reynolds, headwaiter of 
the St. James Hotel, St. Louis, was gen¬ 
erously remembered by his waiters with a 
fine ring, bearing his monogram inlaid 
with diamonds. 

Julia Harrigan has been head waitress at 
the Morton House, Grand Rapids, Mich., 
for over ten years, and her friends made 
her a Christmas present this year of $230 
in cash, collected in small donations. 

The St. Louis, Hotel Reporter says the 
Southern Hotel Company distributed about 
fifteen hundred dollars among their em¬ 
ployes and allowed them to purchase their 
presents. The proprietors of the Lindell 
also came to the front in a liberal manner. 

Mrs. Potter Palmer gives a Christmas 
the Palmer House, Chicago, in the hotel 
parlors. At the recent treat over 200 chil¬ 
dren, (says the Chicago Hotel Reporter ,) 
assembled around a monster Christmas tree 
laden with valuable presents, and every 
child was made happy with a gift. After 
the presentations the little ones were given 
a banquet with plenty of ice cream, cakes 
and candies in the bill of fare. It is such 
substantial manifestations of good will 
upon the parts of employers that tends 
to make employes contented and happy. 






THE BOOK YOU HAVE ALL BEEN WISHING FOR! 


THE 




ISU^EAI? * DISTIODA^Y 


OK, 


HOW TO ORDER DIMER. 


A 


POCKET CYCLOPAEDIA 


OF 


GASTRONOMY AND CULINARY ART. 


BY 


JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 


The Dictionary of Dishes, which commences on the following page, is also* 
issued separately in pocket-form, with the above title. It is intended for all who 
need such a work of reference, yet do not require a complete hotel book of stew- 
arding, etc. It is for those who wish to dine intelligently from a French menu, 
for those who write and print bills of fare, and those who would criticise them; 
for the club steward seeking novelties; for the tourist going abroad; for the res¬ 
taurateur, for his chef, who will glance at it to be reminded which is which among; 
hundreds of sauces and soups with their minute differences and special ingre¬ 
dients, and for men in the business Avho are in want of new things to sell. r \ he 
book will be found well stored with bright sayings and pertinent anecdotes. It 
will make a valuable and handsome present for any one. 

Pocket Size, Cloth, Full Gilt, Price $1.^(5. 


Je/>/>uJi Whitehead, 

PITBLISHEH, 

183 North Peoria Street, - Chicago. 


















THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK 


:p_a_:r.t poitbth. 


WHITEHEAD’S 


D 


m 


ONARY OF 




Culinary Terms and Various Information Pertaining to 
the Steward’s Department, being the 


ESSENCE OF ALL COOK BOOKS , 


TELLING IN BRIEF WHAT ALL DISHES AND SAUCES ARE, OR 

WHAT THEY SHOULD LOOK LIKE. 

WHAT MATERIALS ARE NEEDED FOR AND WHAT THEY ARE. 
HOW TO USE TO ADVANTAGE ALL SORTS OF ABUND¬ 
ANT PROVISIONS, OR HOW TO KEEP THEM. 


CONTAINING, also, 

A Valuable Collection of Restaurant Specialties, 

DISTINCTIVE NATIONAL COOKERY, 

REMARKS ON ADULTERATIONS, AND HOW TO DETECT THEM, 
TREATMENT AND SERVICE OF WINE 


AND A FUND OF CURIOUS AND USEFUL INFORMATION IN DICTIONARY FORM, 
FOR STEWARDS, CATERERS, CHEFS, BAKERS, AND ALL 
HOTEL AND RESTAURANT KEEPERS. 


BY 

JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 


CHICAGO. 

1SS9. 


















Entered according to Act of Congress in the Office .of the Librarian, at Washington, by 
Jessup Whitehead, 1SS9. —All rights reserved. 


CHICAGO, ILL. 

John Anderson & Co., Printers, 1S3-1S7 N. Peoria St. 





I 


MODEL SMALL MENUS. 


DINNER PARTY AT ADELPHI HOTEL, 

NEW YORK. 

Blue Points. 

Chicken k la Reine. 

Kennebec Salmon, Anchovy Sauce. 
Pommes Parisienne. 

Olives. Celery. 

Terrapin a la Maryland. 

Chicken Croquettes Petits Pois. 
Cauliflower. 

Fillet of Beef, larded, with Mushrooms. 
Mashed Potatoes. 

Lobster and Chicken Salads. 

Canvas-back Duck. 

“Saratoga Chips. Currant Jelly. 

Rum Omelette. 

Cheese, Fruit, etc. 

Cafe, Liqueurs, Segars. 

ITALO- AMERICAN EPICUREAN CLUB 
RECEPTION, NEW YORK. 

Julienne. 

Varies. hors d’ceuvre. Varies. 

Striped Bass a la Hollandaise. 

Beef Tenderloin, with Mushrooms. 
Potato Croquettes. French Peas. 

Roast Chicken. Turkey. 

Lettuce Salad. Celery. Cranberry Sauce. 
Lobster Salad. 

Chicken Mayonaise. 

Vanilla Ice Cream. 

Assorted Cake. Fruits. Bonbons. 
Candy. 

Cheese. Coffee. 

Liqueurs. 

COOK’S ASSOCIATION, LONDON EX¬ 
HIBITION. 

MENU. 


Soups, 

Julienne. 

Fish. 

Tranches de Saumon, Sauce Verte. 
Blanchailles. 

Entrees. 

Poulet Saute a la Portugaise. 


Releves. 

Quartier d’Agneau, Sauce Menthe. 

Second Service. 

Canetons Roti. 

Salade k la Fran^aise. 
Asperges, Sauce Hollandaise. 


Entremets. 

Babas, Sauce Abricot. 
Glace k la Vanille. 
Gateau Assorti. 


COMMONWEALTH CLUB, METROPOL 

ITAN HOTEL, NEW YORK. 

MENU. 

Blue Points. 

Consomme de Volaille aux Quenelles. 

Baked Biueflsh, Bordelaise. 

Cucumbers. Potatoes au Gratin. 

• Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. 

String Beans. 

Porterhouse Roast k l’Anglaise. 

French Peas. 

Cardinal Punch. 

Spring Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. 

Lettuce. Brussels Sprouts. 

Pudding k la Reine. 

Glace a la Forme. 

Gateaux Assortis. 

Fruit. Coffee. 

Cheese. 

ANOTHER OF THE SAME. 

MENU. 

Blue Points. 

Consomme Deslignac. 

Boiled Kennebec Salmon a la Russe. 

Cucumbers. Potatoes Brabant. 

Sirloin of Beef, larded Jardiniere. 

Cauliflower au Gratin. 

Salmi of Partridge a la Perigeux. 

String Beans. 

Roman Punch. 

Philadelphia Capon, Water-cress. 

Green Peas. 

Cabinet Pudding, Brandy Sauce. 

Neapolitan Ice Cream. 

Assorted Cake. 

Cheese. Fruit. 

Coffee. 

AL FRESCO. 

An enthusiastic tourist thus describes a supper of 
which he partook recently upon an island in Lake 
Erie: “And such a supper! Black bass killed 
twenty minutes ago, cut up and fried to an external 
crisp and internal juicy firmness; grass pike baked 
whole and done to a turn, which would strike envy 
into the very stew-pans of a French ‘artist;’ a peck 
of little perch fried as crisp as shavings and as 
‘sweet as nuts:’ a half dozen roast mallard, stuffed 
with soul ravishing sage and onions; a pot pie from 
whose delicious depths coots, reed birds, snipe and 
teal emerge in succession; potatoes roasted in their 
jackets, and best of all, tin plates, wooden benches, 
the glorious back-woods, absence of etiquette and 
every man for himself.” 

AN ACROSTIC MENU. 

The following complimentary menu to a young 
lady named Lilian does credit to its authof: 













222 • 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


L es hultres d’Ostend. 

I talian et Printanier Royal. 

L ottes a la Massillon. 

I ndienne de riz sur croustades. 

A iguillettes de canards St. Hubert. 

N oisettes de pre sale, Lyon d’Or. 

B ombe a la Romaine. 

O rtolans et perdreaux eur canapes. 

N ouilles en timbales k la Napolitaine. 

V eloute de cardons k la moelle. 

O melette souffiee k vanille. 

Y okohama glace au Clicquot. 

A bricots et fruits confits. 

G auffrettes et petits fours. 

E spalier de chasselas Fontainebleau. 

Possibly the waiters were as much in a maze 
about the order of serving such a feast as the guests 
were amazed at the delicacy of the giver thereof. 

CANARD, SAUCE AU SANG. 

One of Joseph’s little dinners. (M. Joseph, of the 
Restaurant du Cafe Paillard, Boulevard des Ita- 
liens, formerly of Bignon’s.) 

MENU. 


Hultres d’Ostende. 


Potage au Tapioca, a la Puree de Pois, 
a l’Oseille. 


Turbot, Sauce Hollandaise. 

Cbtelettes d’Agneau braisees k la Puree de Cham¬ 
pignons. 

Canard Sauvage Roti, Sauce au Sang-. 
Salade. 


Tomates au Gratin. 


Riz k l’lmperatrice aux Mandarines. 


Fromage et Fruits. 


Pontet-Canet, 1875. Cardinal, Sec, Frappe. 
AN ENGLISH PRIVATE PARTY. 

MENU. 

Ox-tail Soup. 

Turbot and Lobster Sauce. 

Filleted Soles. 

Oyster Pudding. 

Kidneys, with Mushrooms. 

Saddle of Mutton. 

Turkey. 

Grouse. Pheasant. 

Wine Jelly. Apricot Cream. 

Cheese. Canapes. 

Cheese and Celery. 

Ice Pudding. Dessert. 

AT A SCOTTISH NOBLEMAN’S. 

MENU. 

Potage des Asperges. Puree de Navets. 

Fried Soles. Halibut. 

Rabbit a la Kirkham. Roast Crawfish. 
Chicken k la Marengo. Quails a la Princess. 

Roast Lamb a la Dudley. 

Roast Grouse. 

Imperial Pudding. Broiled Peaches and Cream. 
Pistachio Fritters. Cream Cheese Fritters. 
Lemon Jelly. Strawberry Cream. Ices. 

Dessert. 


AT A COLD BALL SUPPER. 

The following is the menu of one of the largest 
ball suppers given during the past winter season, 
and served by the leading local caterer: 

MENU. 

Raised Pies (Veal and Ham, Pork, Game, etc.). 
Roast Fowls. Pressed Tongues. York Hams. 

Mayonaise of Salmon. Lobster in Aspic. 
Galatine of Veal. Sandwiches. Boned Turkey. 

Italian Salads. Sweet Salads of Fruits. 

Tipsy Cakes. 

Neapolitan Gateau. Creams. Jellies. 

Ices. 

A HOT SUPPER OF THE SAME CLASS. 

. MENU. 

Soup a la Relne. Asparagus Soup. 

Salmon. 

Truffled Turkey. Ox Tongue. Sirloin of Beef. 

Lamb. Broiled Chicken. Yorkshire Ham. 

Game Pie. Pheasants. 

Trifle. German Pastry. 

Fruit Jelly. Creams. 

Fruit. 

The menu cards were pretty, no two being alike, 
yet all of delicate design. 

DINNER GIVEN BY A PHYSICIAN. 

A dinner given by one of the medical attendants 
of the late Prince Leopold. 

MENU. 

Clear Soup. 

Salmon. 

Oyster Patties. 

Sweetbreads. 

Lamb. 

Guinea Fowls. 

Orange Pudding. Claret Jelly. 

Anchovy Toast. Cheese. 

A GERMAN MODEL MENU. 

At the Windsor Hotel, Edinburgh, a dinner was 
given in honor of the German Emperor’s ninetieth 
birthday. There were about fifty gentlemen pres¬ 
ent, of course mainly composed of Germans, but 
here and there were to be seen Scotchmen and En¬ 
glishmen. The viands were composed largely of 
German dishes, but amid the foreign names loomed 
the untranslatable word “haggis,” the familiar 
Scottish national dish. On the menu card was an 
excellent portrait of the emperor, and the viands 
were as under: 

Kaiser Suppe. Huhner Suppe. 

Sherry. 


Lachs, mit Hummer Sauce. Gebackene Seezunge. 
Niersteiner. 


Leipziger Lerchen. Kalbskopf. 
Haggis. 

Schaumwem. Whisky. 

Sauerbraten und Klosse. 
Haasenbraten und Weinkraut. 


Junge Huhnen und Enten. 
Compot und Salad. 

Sachsischer Auflauf. Apfelkuchen, 
Siisse Sulz. 

Rothwein. Sherry. 
Nachtisch. 




















THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


223 


THE GERMAN EMPEROR’S DINNER. 

The following is a copy of one of the last gala 
dinners which chef Urbain Dubois prepared for his 
illustrious employers, and of which, as well he 
might, “All-Highest-the-Same ” ate very heartily: 

Huhnerbriihe mit Spargel-Kopfen. 

Schild-Kroten-Suppe. 

Gebirgs-Forellen, Dlau. 

Lendenbraten mit Kaviar-Brodchen. 

Warine Rebhilhner-Pasteten mit Truffeln. 

Helgolander Hummer. 

Brusseler Gefliigel. 

Bomishe Fasanen. Salat. 

Artischoken-Bohnen mit jungen Gemusen. 

Pilse in Petersilie. 

Butter und Kase. Friichte. Eis. Nachtisch. 

JUBILEE SUPPER AT LANSDOWNE 
HOUSE. 

The menu of the jubilee supper at Lansdowne 
House, which received very special commendation 
from the Prince of Wales, was as follows: 

Tortue claire. 

Filets de soles k la Ravigotte. 

Cailles flanquees, d’ortolans. 

Filets de volaille a la Parisienne. 

Asperges k la sauce Hollandaise. 

Souffles glaces Panaches. 

This is a very simple repast, for since the Prince 
of Wales’ digestion lost the edge of youth he has 
been urging every one to give simple dinners. It is 
made up of five courses: Clear turtle soup; fillets 
of sole, served with Ravigotte sauce (a maitre d’ho- 
tel sauce with Chili vinegar, anchovy, etc.); quail 
flanked with ortolans; fillets of fowl a la Parisienne, 
asparagus with Hollandaise sauce (yolk of eggs 
and butter with vinegar); and a souffle with harle¬ 
quin ices. 

MR. IRVING’S BEST DINNER. 

In Irving’s “ Impressions of America ” due pro¬ 
minence is given to the lavish feasting which at¬ 
tended the well-known artist’s triumphal progress 
through the states. He was greeted everywhere 
with complimentary entertainments. As for the 
menus of some of his smaller banquets, they make 
one’s mouth water; and Mr. Irving is evidently an 
intelligent and scientific gourmet. He seems to 
have given the palm to a simple little dinner at 
Sieghortner’s in New York. Oysters on the half 
shell, lying on crushed ice, each served with its 
separate slice of lemon. A vegetable soup that re¬ 
minded him of what he barbarously misspells as 
“Cock-u-lukie.” Terrapin sent up hot and hot. 
(“Next to going to heaven,” said a friend near me, 
is to go down to Baltimore and eat terrapin.”) Can¬ 
vas-back duck—a breast on each plate, with potato 
chips and celery, and two courses of the ducks, the 
first roasted, the second grilled and devilled. A 
souffle, cheese, coffee and wines that were worthy 
of the fare. By way of contrast to that little diner 
soigne, we have an amusing account of a “scratch” 
dinner given by Irving to his company at a hotel 
at Toronto in the winter, and consequently out of 
season. After telegraph and telephone had been 


working in all directions, flashing fruitless mes¬ 
sages for poultry and other raw material, seventy- 
guests were set down at last to a sufficiency of sub¬ 
stantial food. 

Private dinner to the Prince and Princess of 
Wales: 

Consomme de Volaille Royale. 

Crdme d’Asperges k la Comtesse. 

Turbot braise a la Vatel. 

Mousse de Saumon a la Lavalliere. 


Cbtelettes d’Agneau Chatelaine. 
Medaillons de Foie-gras a l’Aspic. 

Hanche de Venaison. 
Poulardes Souffles. 


Ortolans sur Canapes. 

Petits Pois a la Franfais. 

Parfait leger aux Cerises. 

Gateau Napolitain 

Tartelettes Suisses. 

First official dinner given by President Carnot at 
the Elysee: 

Consomme Bagration. 

Bisque d’Ecrevisses. 

Bouchees aux Crevettes. 


Saumon, Sauce Genevoise. 
Cuissot de Chevreuil Saint Hubert. 


Supreme de Volaille aux Truffes. 
Cdtelettes d’Agneau aux Petits Pois. 
Mauviettes a la Lucullus. 
Salade d’Homard a la Russe. 


Sorbets. 

Faisans truffes, Sauce Perigueux. 
Pates de Foie Gras de Nancy. 


Asperges en Branches. 
Haricots Verts Nouveaux. 


Glace Diplomate. 

Gateaux Mousseline a l’Orange. 

Menu of a dinner given by the Sultan of Turkey 
to the Prince Jerbrne Napoleon on the ist of July: 

Potage a la reine. 

Beureg. 

Poisson a la Turque. 

Filet de boeuf a la Godard. 

Poulets nouveaux a l’Orientale. 

Cbtelettes d’agneau aux petits pois. 

Hiar Dornassy . 

Homards en Belle-vue 
Asperges bouillies, sauce au beurre. 

Punch a la Romaine. 

Dindonneaux rotis au jus. 

Pilau. 

Visnali ekmeg. 

Gelee macedoine de fruits. 

Faouk gheuksu. 

Fromage glace. 

A KING FLUSH AND A ROYAL DINNER. 

Menu of a notable dinner given by Earl Cadogan 
at Chelsea House to the royalties in London. Cov¬ 
ers were laid for forty-eight. The company m- 


i 

















224 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


eluded the King- of Denmark, the King of Greece, 
the King of the Belgians, the Crown Prince of 
Austria, the Prince and Princess of Wales and Prin¬ 
cesses Louise and Victoria of Wales, the Crown 
Prince and Crown Princess of Portugal, the Crown 
Prince of Sweden, the Grand Duke and Grand 
Duchess Serge of Russia, the Duke of Aosta, Prince 
and Princess William of Prussia, the Infante Anto¬ 
nio and the Infanta Euialie, and the Heriditary 
Prince and Princess of Meiningen. 

MENU. 


Consomme a la Royale. 

Creme d’Asperges. 

Whitebait. 

Filets de Truites froides en Souchet. 


Cotelettes d’Agneau Duchesse. 
Chaudfroid de Cailles aux Truffes. 


Poulardes aux Pruneaux. 

Filet Piques froids, Sauce Cumberland. 
Salades Russe ec Tomates. 


Ortolans sur Canapes. 
Pois k l’Anglaise. 


Bavarois a la Montreuil. 

Souffles de Fraises. 

Croustades aux Fromages. 

WHEN PRINCE MEETS PRINCE. 

Menu of a dinner given by the Crown Prince 
Rudolph of Austria to the Prince of Wales on the 
24 of September, iSSS, at the “ Lacher Garten,” 
Prater, in Vienna: 

Huitres. 

Consomme a la Sevigne. 

Bisque d'ecrevisses. 

Saumon du Rhin, sauce Hollandaise, et sauce 
Genevoise. 

Piece de bceuf, a la jardiniere. 

Pate de canard truffles, <1 la gelee. 
Poulardes a la Toulouse. 

Ponche Stephanie. 

Selle de chevreuil. Faisans de Boherne. 
Salade. 

Fonds d’artichants a la moelle. 

Souffle au chocolat. 

Glaces historiees. Fruits. Fromaire. 
Cafe. 

AN EXCELLENT DINNER 

at the house of one of the most elegant of the 
gra tides dames of Paris: 

MENU. 

Consomme Royal. 

Tartelettes a la Russe. 

Filets de Turbots Charabord. 

Selles de Marcassin, Sauce Tartare. 
Casseroles de Ris de Veau Petits Pois. 
Bartavelles aux Ceps de Bordeaux. 
Marquises Jamaique. 

Dinde truffee. Salade. 

Foies Gras Lumineux Truffes. 

Cardons a la Moelle. 

Bombe Grande Duchesse. 

Fromages. Desserts. 

A NOVELTY 

“ This was one of the best dinners I have had for 
some time. I want specially to call your attention 
to the item foies gras lumineux truffes , which is a 


very attractive novelty. The dish is a hollow cone 
of tinted ice. Inside the ice is placed a light. Along 
the sides of the cone are laid rows of roundels of 
foie gras, diminishing in size from bottom to top. 
In each roundel is a slice of truffle. The light shin¬ 
ing through the ice has a wonderfully pretty effect, 
whilst the cold keeps the fate de foie gras firm and 
fresh as it should be. Another variety is to set the 
foie gras in slices on a large block of ice in the 
centre of the table, the ice to be made luminous in 
the method described. I recommend this novelty to 
the attention of hotel keepers who do elegant din¬ 
ners, or even for first-class table d’hotes.” 

DRAMATIC SUPPER. 

“Supper served on the stage of the GaieteTheatre 
here on the occasion of the 100th representation of 
Le Grand Mogol , and offered by the lessee, Mr. 
Debruyere, and the authors of the piece, to the 
actors and many representatives of Paris art, litera¬ 
ture, society, and finance: 

Potage Irma, Consomme Bengaline. 

Truites du Gange, Sauce Brahma et Sauce 
Vischnou. 

Filet Mignapour aux Truffes et aux Champignons. 

Jambon Crakson aux pointes d’Asperges. 

Faisans et Perdreaux des Jungles. 

Pate de Foie Gras a la Joquelet. 

Salade Bayadere. 

Bombe Nicobar. 

Dessert. 


Vi ns. 

Bordeaux retour de l’lnde et Champagne 
Grand Mogol. 

Cafe. Liqueurs. 

You will perceive that the coleur locale is well pre¬ 
served.” 

A GOOD MENU. 

“The following is a good menu, as lean vouch 
from personal experience: 

Consomme aux oeufs poches. 

Aloyau Portugaise. 

Timbale de macaroni. 

Cailles roties. 

Cardons a la moelle. 

Charlotte de pommes. 

“Here is the recipe for the Aloyau Portugaise 
mentioned above: Prepare a piece of faux-JHet\ lard 
it; steep it in a little olive-oil and cognac-brandy 
for an hour before cooking. Have stuffed tomatoes 
and roast with your faux-filet. When it is ready 
place the tomatoes round the meat and pour Madeira 
sauce over the whole.” 

GOOD COOKING IN POLITICS. 

The World's statement commences as follows: 
“Lord Cadogan’s chef is unquestionably a factor in 
politics, for the Lord Privy Seal’s Saturday dinners 
are, in their way, almost as important as Lady 
Salisbury's Wednesday receptions.” Our contem¬ 
porary then goes on to praise the white dining room 
of Cadogan House, and to describe the dinner to a 
distinguished company, of which M. Isoard sends 
us the menu here transcribed: 













THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


225 



* 

> 




Consomme Profiteroles. 
Crgme d’Orge ii l’Ecossaise. 


Filets de Truites, Sauce Genevoise. 
Souffles d’Eperlans. 


Cailles aux Raisins. 
CStelettes d’Agneau aux Concombres. 

Filet de Boeuf pique, Sauce Madere. 
Lfegumes. 

Sorbets au Rhum. 

Poulets d’Inde au Cresson. 
Pains d’Epinards a l’Espagnole. 


Babas & l’Allemande. 

Neiges au Moka. 

Biscottes au Fromage. 

A CHINESE DINNER IN NEW YORK. 

Excise Commissioner William S. Andrews, who 
has for years been ambitious to eat a regulation 
Chinese dinner, ate one last night, and thinks that 
he will be able to get out to-day. Wong Chin Foo 
was his host. Dressed in an American derby and 
overcoat and other American things, Wong led the 
way to the Chinese chop house at 14 Mott street. 
The Commissioner was in evening dress. He 
brought along two New York friends to help him, 
and when they had mastered the chopsticks they 
drove right through fourteen courses of dinner 
without quailing. It took nearly three hours, and 
this was the bill of the performance: 

1. Tea, served in costly china cups. 

2. Cake. 

3. Lichee nuts. 

4. Sweetmeats. 

5. Roast duck. 

6. Roast chicken. 

7. Boned ducks feet fried, with mushrooms and 
bamboo shoots. 

8. Chicken bones fried in lard until the bone was 
soft as the flesh, and dressed with Chinese sweet 
pickle, ginger and celery. 

9. American pike fried, with mushrooms and 
water lily potato. 

10. Cuttlefish, with Chinese sweet turnips and 
saifun beans. 

11. Tchowmien macaroni, flour stewed with 
chicken, celery and mushrooms. 

12. Chinese sausages, composition uncertain. 

13. Citron soup, with shrimps. 

14. Lotus seed and apricot seed soup. 

Commissioner Andrews washed it all down with 

three kinds of Chinese wine. One was the nomai- 
dayo pear wine, the second a white wine distilled 
from rice, and the third Chinese gin made of apricot 
seed. 

A MEXICAN MENU. 

The Mexican idea of the first meal in the morning 
is a cup of coffee and a small loaf of bread or bis¬ 
cuit. The guest may have that in his room if he 
likes, and he can have it supplemented with a beef¬ 
steak or eggs. At twelve o’clock dinner—la comida 


—is ready. A bill of fare, just as brought from the 
table of the Jardin, is subjoined in Mexican and 
translation: 


MENU DE LA COMIDA. 

Sopas. 

A la Romana. 
Arros. 

Entradas. 
Huevos al gusto. 
Huachinango a la Ma- 
tellot. 

Beefsteak o’costillas. 
Japonesas de salmi. 
Salcnichas conchiharos. 
Fernerita con salpicon. 
Chiles rellonos. 

Asados. 

Roastbeef. 

Legtimbres. 

Califlores. 

Papas al vapor. 
Frijoles. 

Pas Ires. 

F resas—helado. 
Cafe, tee. 


DINNER BILL OF FARE. 

Soups. 

A la Romada. 

Rice. 

Entrees. 

Eggs in all styles. 
Red snapper a la Matellot. 
Beefsteak or mutton 
chops. 

Chicken croquettes. 
Sausages with green peas. 
Roast veal. 
Stuffed chillies. 

Roasts. 

Roast beef. 
Vegetables. 
Cauliflower. 

Boiled potatoes 
Beans. 

Dessert. 

Strawberries—ice cream. 
Coffee, tea. 


This meal is $1. The dishes are served one at a 
time. A foreigner may be a little surprised at first 
to find eggs elevated to such an important position 
in the bill of fare—they follow the soup—but he 
speedily discovers that Mexican eggs are ahvn3 r s 
fresh, and he takes his “huevos” boiled, fried, or in 
omelet as regularly as the dinner comes round. The 
Mexican cooks have learned that there can be an 
excess of pepper to some tastes, and they serve 
“con chile” or without it as desired, the fiery sauce 
being provided in a bowl instead of being poured 
over the eggs or meat before leaving the kitchen. 
This is a great deal better than the old way, for a 
stranger can learn to like the chilli a good deal 
better if he takes it in homcepathic doses, instead of 
burning his throat out in ignorance the first time of 
sitting down to a Mexican meal. 


TABLES VOLANTES OR FLYING TABLES. 

The inventors have a long way to travel before 
their tables can beat the magical appearance and 
disappearance of some tables I have seen in well 
managed hotels. Take this instance of preparation 
for a ball supper: There was but one room in the 
hotel large enough to dance in, and that was the 
dining room. It was also the only room in which 
to serve the supper. The question was how to use 
it for both purposes at once without an awkward 
break in the festivities, and as it was a grand ball, 
instead of a social hop, a “handed-round supper” 
would not do. There were two side rooms which 
opened into the dining room and also on the outside, 
and in these, without the least sign apparent to the 
guests, six long tables were set complete with flow¬ 
ers, lights, decorated pieces, salads, sweets, meats, 
ices, etc., everything except coffee. It was arranged 
with the musicians and the floor manager and at a 
certain time by the clock the company were led in a 
march to the further end, out of one door, through 
a bay-windowed conservatory and back into the 
dining room through another door, and as they 














226 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


entered they saw, where they had been dancing but 
five minutes before, a brilliant set table nearly the 
whole length of the room. They said, of course, it 
was more like magic than common reality. If any 
of them had turned their head, like Lot’s wife, 
while they were marching, they would have seen 
the tables following them, for at the same signal each 
of the six tables had been taken up by four waiting 
men and carried as it was to the place previously 
marked for it. When the supper was over the 
tables were carried out with like expedition. 

A QUOTATION MENU. 

Private dinner at the Magnolia Hotel, St.Johns 
River, Florida: 

HUITRES. 

“Lying with simple shells.” 

Chateau Yquem. — Hericles, act iii, scene. 

“When the butt is out we will drink water; not 
a drop before. — Tempest, act iii, scene ii. 

POT AGE. 

Tortue verte, claire. 

“A most delicate monster.” 

Duke’s Montillo. — Tempest, act ii, scene iv. 

“ Give me a cup of sack.” 

—Henry IV, part i, act ii, scene iv. 

HORS D’ceUVRES. 

Varies. Varies. 

Petits vols-au-vent, a la financiere. 

“A mystery; aye, sir, a mystery.” 

—Measure for Measure, act iv, scene ii. 

POISSON. 

Pompano. 

“A royal fish; it shall be divided.” 

—i Black, Com., ccxxii. 

■“That sort was well fished for.” 

— Tempest, act ii, scene i. 

Pommes de terre. 

Concombres. Tomates. 

Rudesheimer. 

RELEVE. 

Filet de bceuf, pique, aux truffes Perigord. 

“What say you to a piece of beef and mustard?” 

— Taming of the Shrew, act iv, scene iii. 

“The ox knoweth its owner and the ass his master’s 
crib.”— Isaiah i, iii. 

Moet and Chandon’s Cremant d’Ay. 

“Come, thou monarch of the vine, 

Plumpy Bacchus, with pink eyne.” 

—Anthony and Cleopatra, act ii, scene vii. 

ENTREMETS. 

Points d’asperges au beurre. 

Petits pois, a la Francaise. 

Champignons, frais, au champagne. 

“To feed on flowers and weeds of glorious feature.” 
—Spencer : The Fate of the Butterfly, line 2oq. 

pate de volaille en Bellevue. 

“For this, be sure, to-night thou shalt have cramps; 
Side-stitches that shall pen thy breath up.” 

— Tempest, act 1, scene ii. 

Chateau Margaux. 

“The next they brought up was a bottle of wine as 
red as blood.”— Banyan's Pilgrim's Progress. 

Mayonaise de chevrette. 


“This salad was born to do me good.” 

Henry VI, part ii, act iv. 

Tomates, farcis, a la duchesse. 

“ ‘Appetite comes with eating,’ says Angeston.” 

— Rabelais . 

Grenadines de filet de chapon, a la Sultan. 

“A feast of fat things.” 

— Isaiah, xxv, vi. 

Sorbet au fleur d’orange. 

“What! must our mouths be cold?” 

Tempest, act i, scene i. 

ROTIS. 

Becasse. Becassines, a 1 ’Anglaise. 

“What is the opinion of Pythagoras concerning 
wildfowl?”— Twelfth Night, act iv, scene ii. 

“The peacock is an aga, but the little bird is a bul¬ 
bul.”— Thackeray, Oriental Love Song. 

SALADE. 

“My salad days, 

When I was green in judgment.” 

Anthojiy and Cleopatra, act i, scene v. 

Chambertin. 


“We shall feast high with the blood of Burgundy.” 

— Scott, Quentin Durward. 


SUCRES. 

Omelette souffle. 

Charlotte, a la Russe. Gelee au champagne. 

“A wilderness of sweets.” 

—Milton : Paradise Lost, book v, line 2Q4. 

“We are such stuff 
As dreams are made of.” 

— Tempest, act iv, scene i. 

Glace Napolitaine. 

“When it is baked with frost.” 

— Tempest, act i, scefte ii. 
FROMAGE. 

“Copia pressi lactis.” 

— Vergilius, Eel. i. 
Roquefort. Stilton. 

OLIVES. 

“Let us have peace!”— Ulyses. 

FRUITS ET DESSERT. 

“Stay me with flagons; comfort me with apples.” 

—Song of Solomon, xi, v. 

CAFE. 

“Coffee, which makes the politician wise, 

And see through all things with his half-shuteyes.” 

— Pope, Rape of the Lock. 

Chartreuse. 

“Good! yet remember whom thou hast abroad.” 

— Tempest, act t, scene i. 


Menu of the supper served at a great charity ball 
given at the Hotel de Ville in aid of the poor of 
Paris. The feast was served by Messrs. Polet and 
Chabot, of the Rue Vivienne, at ten francs a headi 

Consommd de volaille. 

Truite saumonee, sauce verte froide. 

Filet de baeuf glacee. 

Galantine de poularde truffee. 

Chaufroid de merles de Corse. 

Pates de foie gras de Strasbourg. 

Salade Venetienne. 

Dessert. 

Bordeaux. Medoc., 

Partaken of by at least five thousand persons, more 
than a thousand being turned, empty a.way» 






WHITEHEAD’S DICTIONARY OF DISHES 


CULINARY TERMS AND VARIOUS INFORMATION PER¬ 
TAINING TO THE STEWARD’S DEPARTMENT. 


ABALONE—A shell fish cooked and served in 
Chinese restaurants in California. The shell is pearl 
of brilliant hues, largely employed In the decorative 
arts. The abalone trade of California has been 
recently estimated to amount to about $250,000 a year. 
The flesh of these mollusks is preserved by drying 
and afterwards prepared for use by soaking in hot 
water; it is described as being tasteless and tough as 
India rubber when first put into the mouth, but soon 
breaks into granules with an agreeable flavor. 

ABATOIR (Fr.)—Slaughter house. 

ABATIS (Fr.) — Giblets. Pate aux abatis is 
giblet pie. Abatis de Dinde a la Chipolata is 
turkey giblets with sausages, etc. 

ABERDEEN SAND WICHES—Hot sandwiches 
of fried bread in rounds like silver dollars, spread 
with minced chicken or other meats well seasoned. 

ABERNETIIY BISCUIT — A round, sweet 
■cracker flavored with caraway seed. Common in 
English shops. 

ABSINTHE—An intoxicating liquor, a common 
tipple in France, made of the extract of the weed 
wormwood and caraway seed in alcohol. Occasion¬ 
ally used in punches and fancy drinks. 

ACCOLADE (Fr.)—Brace, pair; accolade de per- 
dreaux is brace of partridges. 

ACCIDENTS—Most frequently occurring in ho¬ 
tels are burns, scalds and cuts. Handles come off 
boilers of hot water or hot fat; frying vessels full of 
boiling lard tip over, steam rushes out from under a 
lid, or out of faucets instead of the water which has 
boiled away; red hot iron range lids and griddles are 
taken hold off by mistake, vats and tubs of boiling 
water are stumbled into or overturned. Wounds are 
received in cutting and chopping meat and in the 
breakage of crockery and glass. In the treatment of 
burns or scalds , the first object is to protect the in¬ 
jured part from the air. Pieces of lint or cotton, 
dipped in carron oil, will serve for this purpose. 
Carron oil (so called from being much used for burns 
at the Carron Iron Works, Scotland,) is a mixture of 
equal parts of linseed oil and lime water. When 
carron oil is not at hand, the burned or scalded part 
may be covered thickly with flour, olive oil, or vase¬ 
line. If some of the clothing sticks to the body, do 


not try to tear it away; leave it alone and cut around 
the spot. In severe burns or scalds, the services of a 
•surgeon should be secured as soon as possible. 
When the injury is slight, baking soda, applied 
either djy or wet, gives instant relief. For scalds 
from steam or water or for slight burns, dip the part v 
in cold water and apply fine salt as much as will 
adhere. This will usually prevent a blister. Cuts— 
In case of a ruptured artery, the flow of blod may be 
checked by tying a twisted handkerchief, a cord, or 
strap, behvee?i the wound and the body. If the hand 
is cut, raise the arm above the head and bind it 
tightly. In wounds of the throat, armpit, or groin, 
caused by cuts, and in case of any deep wound, 
thrust the thumb and finger into the bottom of the 
wound and pinch up the part from which the blood 
comes, directing the pressure against the flow. If 
the cut is slight, let the blood flow for half a minute, 
then dip in cold water or apply ice. Draw the cut 
edges closely together with adhesive plaster, or by 
stitches and a bandage, and keep the part quiet. 
Slight cuts will usually heal quickly. In severe 
cuts, check the flow of blood and secure the attend¬ 
ance of a physician as soon as possible. In cases of 
asphyxiation by foul air, charcoal fumes, blowing 
out the gas, drowning, etc., artifical respiration 
should be induced. Loosen the clothing, or, better, 
remove it; rub the body with warm cloths; grasp the 
tongue with a towel and draw it forward; hold it 
there for a moment, then turn the patient on his face, 
with his forehead resting on one of his arms, and 
apply hartshorn or snuff to the nostrils; then turn 
the patient on his back, and dash first warm, then 
cold water in the face. If this fails, grasp the arms 
at the elbow and draw them slowly upwards above 
the head, keeping them there for two seconds; then 
turn down the arms and press them firmly against 
the ribs for two seconds, repeating these movements, 
carefully and perseveringly, about fifteen times in a 
minute, until respiration becomes natural; after this, 
apply cloths wet with hot water to the limbs and 
body, and cover with blankets. As soon as practic¬ 
able give hot drinks. (For poisoning see antidotes.) 

ACETIC ACID—Pastry cooks and confectioners 
use ’tin small quantities to whiten and stiffen cake 
icing, and to prevent granulation in boiling sugar. 

17 ) 





228 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ACI 

It is vinegar concentrated and refined ancl costs but 
little. Substitutes for it are lemon juice, cream tar¬ 
tar, tartaric acid and citric acid. Acetic, boracic 
and salycilic acids are all employed as dressings to 
preserve raw meats from spoiling when exported to 
great distances. 

ACID—The harmless fruit acids used in cookery 
are those named above (see acetic acid), obtained 
from fruits of the citrus family, lemons, limes, etc., 
the lees of wine and from vinegar. Oxalic acid is 
poison though obtained from the weed oxalis or 
sorrel, which we cook and is harmless. Prussic 
acid is a poison although it is present in minute 
quantities and gives the pleasant bitter flavor to the 
leaves and fruit of trees of the almond tribe, which 
are freely used. An acid stirred into a solution of 
cochineal changes it from purple to scarlet, hence 
cake icing and other substances colored with cochi¬ 
neal have a brighter tint if they are slightly acid¬ 
ulated. Lemon juice or other acids stirred into such 
mixtures as boiling pudding sauce, tapioca or starch 
jelly and some soups, generally will change their 
bluish appearance to clear transparency. Lemon 
juice or other acid is often required to make a sim¬ 
ilar change in gelatine jelly and in strong consom¬ 
mes, which sometimes become too rich and viscid 
to pass through the strainer until cut with a dash of 
acid. Acids act upon copper or brass so as to 
brighten the surfaces. Acid and salt will clean a 
copper or brass vessel, the brightened surface soon 
tarnishes, however, unless dry polished afterwards. 
Acids act upon copper and brass vessels in such a 
way as to produce a poison called verdigris, which 
forms at the edge where the air, acid and copper are 
in contact. Stewed fruit, cranberries, pickles, slaw, 
salads, etc., acquire a bitter taste and become poi¬ 
sonous if left standing a few hours in copper or 
brass, and brass spoons from which the plating is 
worn off become coated with a bitter tasting poison 
if left in dishes of fruit jelly, sauce, pickles, salads, 
or anything that contains an acid. Acids act on 
iron in such a way that sour bread dough set to rise 
in iron pans becomes stained as with ink. They act 
on tin and zinc to a less degree, but salads contain¬ 
ing vinegar acquire an unpleasant metallic taste in 
tin pans, and should be made and kept in glass or 
earthenware bowls. Acids, like lemon slices or 
juice or vinegar, will whiten boiling chickens, fish, 
turkeys, calf’s head, sweetbreads, etc., provided the 
vessel used to boil in be bright and new, but if an 
iron vessel or a tin one much worn, the action of the 
acid will often spoil the appearance of the fish or 
meat entirely by turning them blue and of a dirty 
color, and when such vessels with the tinning 
mostly worn off must be used, the vinegar or lemon 
juice should be omitted. (See boracic acid.) Acids 
dissolve sea shells and egg shells immersed in them; 
their action upon the lime of the shells produces a 
slow effervescense until the lime is all driven off. 
In like manner lemon juice injures the finger nails, 
making them brittle and jagged. A very slight 


ADE 

acidity or sourness is generally productive of white¬ 
ness in bread and cake, while the opposite alkalim- 
ity produces a yellow or dusk color, thus bread just 
on the point of turning sour is the whiter, and bread 
made with milk turns out whiter through the form¬ 
ation of lactic acid or the souring of the milk in it 
while rising, but the addition of soda to counteract 
the slight sourness would make it a darker shade. 
In cake-making the addition of lemon juice or cream 
tartar alone produces both lightness and whiteness, 
while soda or baking powder added has the effect 
to make the hue either dull yellow or grey. 

ACID AND SODA—The original baking powder 
or yeast powder, mixed and used by cooks and bak¬ 
ers before prepared baking powders became a reg¬ 
ular article of manufacture and sale. (See baking" 
powder.) 

ACID AND ALKALI—Acids mixed with such 
alkalies as soda, saleratus, potash, marble dust and! 
lime, when wetted, begin to change into gas which 
rises into the atmosphere and is lost, but if the 
change takes place within a lump of dough that 
becomes light with innummerable bubbles of the 
gas, which expanding still more with the heat in 
baking make a light and spongy loaf. Soda foun¬ 
tains are charged by placing marble dust, which is 
one form of lime, in the generator, pouring dilute 
sulphuric acid upon it and immediately screwing 
down the lid. The acid and lime change into gas 
which can only escape through a pipe into another 
tight vessel nearly filled with water, where it re¬ 
mains imprisoned until drawn from the soda fount. 
Whether in bread or in a soda fountain, if the acid 
and alkali are not properly matched in quantity, a 
portion of either one or the other will remain behind 
unused and unchanged in the bread or in the gener¬ 
ator. When they are rightly proportioned they still 
do not all go off in the gas, but leave a remainder, a 
new compound called a salt, which may be only 
common salt or may be something hurtful, accord¬ 
ing to the kinds of acids and alkalis employed. Ac¬ 
cording to one of the stories from history, Cleopatra 
owned the largest and most valuable pearl in the 
world of her day, and dissolved it in a cup of vine¬ 
gar and drank it. Strong vinegar would dissolve 
the pearl, considerable time being allowed, nitric 
acid would have consumed it in a few minutes, yet 
Cleopatra did not drink the pearl; it passed off in 
the form of gas. If she drank during the efferves¬ 
cense she drank a sort of soda water. If the pearl 
and vinegar were just sufficient to neutralize each 
other, when the pearl disappeared the vinegar had 
lost its sourness and Cleopatra drank only water 
containing a nearly tasteless tartrate. 

ACID ICING—Meringue or frosting made with 
lemon juice in equal quantity with white of eggs. 

ACIDULATED PUDDING — Sponge cake 
slices, saturated with lemon syrup and covered with 
custard in a dish. 

ADELAIDE SANDWICHES—Hot rounds o£ 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


229 


ADM 

fried bread with minced chicken, etc., between, like 
Aberdeen sandwiches, with a small ball of cheese 
baked upon top of each just before serving. 

ADMIRAL PUDDING—A boiled suet plum 
pudding, made with mashed potatoes and carrots 
each in equal proportion to the flour. 

ADMIRAL SAUCE — Anchovy sauce with 
chopped capers and shallots added, and very little 
lemon rind; in other words, butter sauce with 
pounded anchovies, shallots, capers and little lemon 
rind in it; good for boiled fish. 

ADAM’S APPLE—The banana; supposed by 
some to be the fruit of which Adam ate. 

AERATED BREAD—Bread charged with gas 
the same as generated in soda fountains. The loaves 
are inclosed in a tight mould, gas forced into them, 
and baked. In baking, the gas expanding makes 
the bread light. The effect is similar to mixing 
acid and soda in the flour, but there is no residue of 
salts left in the bread by this method, and there is 
no loss of the flour as in fermentation, which pro¬ 
cess changes part of the flour to a gas which raises 
the bread. Companies with large capital are carry¬ 
ing on the aerated bread business in several cities. 
“The method of Dr. Dauglish, the results of which 
are now made so well known by the catering energy 
of the Aerated Bread Company, depends upon the 
fact that water may be made to hold within itself a 
large quantity of liquid carbonic acid under pressure, 
which it liberates as gas when the pressure is re¬ 
moved or diminished, as shown by soda water and 
other aerated liquids. The flour, with as much salt 
as is required, is placed in a strong air-tight vessel. 
In another strong vessel is water highly charged 
with carbonic acid under pressure, like soda water 
in bottle. The two vessels communicate by a pipe 
with tap; that containing the flour has a kneading 
apparatus working through an air-tight stuffing- 
box. On opening the tap the aerated water is forced 
into the kneading vessel in due quantity, and the 
flour is then worked into paste or dough while still 
under pressure. On removing the pressure the car¬ 
bonic acid expands, as it does in uncorking a soda 
water or champagne bottle; but instead of escaping 
freely, as in these cases, it expands the dough. By 
a simple arrangement of a suitable outlet, the dough 
may be squirted out by the pressure of the gas 
within, and thus run into the form of a long cylinder 
of required thickness for cutting up into loaves, 
which must be baked without loss of time, as they 
would otherwise collapse.” 

AERATED DRINKS—Bottled soda, ginger ale, 
etc., are flavored waters charged with gas by means 
of a forced aparatus made for the purpose. 

AERATED WATERS—A few natural mineral 
waters are slightly aerated, discharging air bubbles 
as they rise in the spring. Some of these and others, 
found suitable, are artificially charged. 

AERATED WINES—Imitation wines and cham- 


ALA 

pagnes are made effervescent as if fermented by 
being charged with gas like aerated drinks. 

AGARIC—Mushroom, (botanical name), also the 
name recently adopted for a bottled liquor or bitters 
designed to fill a long felt want in prohibition com¬ 
munities. There are hundreds of species of agaric 
or mushroom, and one kind, amanita muscaria, pro¬ 
duces intoxication and is eaten or rather taken in 
doses by people in some parts of the world for that 
purpose. 

AGNEAU (Fr.)—Lamb; selle d'agneau is saddle 
of lamb; quarlier d'agneau is quarter of lamb. 

AGNEW PUDDING — English name for an 
apple cream pie. 

AIGLE DE MER—French name of the hornfish. 

AIGRETTES AU PARMESAN—Cheese puff 
fritters, or beignels souffles, with grated Parmesan 
cheese mixed in the batter. 

AILERONS (Fr.)—Pinions; ailerons de dinde is 
turkey wings; ailes depoulets , chicken wings. 

AITCHBONE or EDGEBONE —1 he cut of beef 
in the hindquarter at the end of the loin, between 
that and the rump. The meat lies in detached layers 
with skin and gristle between; inconvenient to cut 
into steaks; it makes a second rate or heip’s roast 
and is good to salt and boil. 

ALASKA TROUT ( salmo purpuratus) —A var 
iety different from the Atlantic trout in its markings, 
being spotted with black spots of the size of buck¬ 
shot. 

A LA MODE BEEF SOUP—An English soup 
in which the meaf is stewed to pieces and served 
with it, brown and thick. 

A LA MODE BEEF SHOPS—“Upon entering 
the a la mode beef refectory, an astonishing sight 
met my view. The patrons were all seated, but 
how? Little benches, scarcely more than a yard 
long, accommodated each of them two customers. 
In front of them was a little table a foot and a half 
wide, and this was shared by the people on the 
bench opposite. In fact, on every square yard and a 
half, or thereabouts, four people were eating, the 
food being brought to them at call by the waiters. 
At one end of the long room, which must have held 
more than three score eaters, was a man who ladled 
out of the huge cauldron the thick soup and stewed 
beef known as a la mode, and passed it on to the 
waiters, who flicked it to their customers. It was 
evidently the staple dish of the establishment and 
was very savoury. It had the odour—a strong one, 
certainly—of a wholesome but highly flavored mess, 
and I am bound to say that those who were devour¬ 
ing it seemed satisfied.” 

A LA MODE BEEF—An English dish not to 
be confounded with th eboeuja la mode of the French. 
Take eight or ten pounds of beef (the rump or but¬ 
tock) or the same weight of a breast of veal. Divide 
into neat pieces of three or four ounces in weight. 





230 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ALB 

Put it into a large stewpan with four ounces of good 
beef dripping; but first make the dripping hot, and 
flour the meat. Add a couple of large onions, 
minced very fine, dredge flour, and stir with a 
wooden spoon for about ten minutes, or until the 
contents of the pan be thick; then pour in about one 
gallon of water. Do this gradually, stirring all to¬ 
gether. Bring it to a boil; then skim, and add one 
drachm of ground black pepper, two of allspice, and 
two bay-leaves. Set the pan where it will stew 
gently for about three hours. When the meat is 
tender, serve. 

ALBANY CAKES—The same batter as for 
4 ‘ popovers,” baked in shallow pans to make a thin 
muffin. Hot for breakfast. 

ALBEMARLE PUDDING—Sugar, eggs and 
pounded almonds in equal weights beaten together 
to a froth and baked in a tin. 

ALBUMEN—White of egg is albumen in its 
purest form. It is abundant in the flesh of chickens, 
rabbits, fish, and is a constituent of all sorts of meat 
in a greater or less degree. When chicken meet or 
chopped beef is set over the fire in cold water, the 
water becomes milky while heating through the al¬ 
bumen flowing out of the meat. When boiling heat 
is reached, the milky appearance is changed to per¬ 
fect clearness of the water, and the albumen has 
risen to the surface in the form of scum. If the 
chicken had been dropped into boiling water, the al¬ 
bumen and other juices would not have flowed from 
the meat, but remained within it. This is why a leg 
of rnut’on or other fresh joint should be set on to 
cook in boiling water, that the gravy may be kept in 
the meat until it is cut; the albumen of the outside 
cooks instantly and keeps in the juices. But to make 
soup or stews the meat should be put on in cold 
water. Albumen is used in immense quantities in 
manufactures, especially in calico printing. The de¬ 
mand for albumen has led almost to the extermina¬ 
tion of the immense flocks of wild birds, such as 
snipe, plover, curlew, widgeon and various species 
of ducks which breed on the islands of the northern 
sea and formerly swarmed at certain seasons along 
our coasts, for their eggs have been gathered by the 
vessel load year after year, until there was no longer 
a harvest left to gather, unless new breeding places 
could be discovered. A new source of supply of 
albumen has now sprung up; the blood from the 
large slaughter houses is contracted for by firms 
that makes a business of extracting the albumen 
from it for use in the arts, and convert the remainder 
of the blood into fertilizers. (See article on eggs.) 

ALBERT CAKE—Is sponge cake with finely 
chopped almonds and candied orange peel and a 
little ground spice mixed in. 

ALBERT BISCUITS—Same as the above, baked 
in small moulds like small sponge cakes or savoys. 

ALBERT PUDDING—Steamed pound pudding 
with raisins in it. The mould it is steamed in is but- 


ALK 

tered and lined with strips and stars of citron and 
figs. Brandy sauce. 

ALCOHOL—Much employed formerly to burn in 
lamps under chafing dishes, but made too dear for 
general use by the revenue tax. It is in use still by 
persons who take pleasure in preparing special 
dishes over the flame of a lamp at their own table. 
Alcohol is the medium employed to unite with the 
essential oils of fruits to make flavoring extracts; 
extract of lemon, orange, vanilla, etc., are made by 
mixing oil of lemon with alcohol or steeping the 
vanilla bean in it. Sticks of cinnamon, broken nut¬ 
megs, bruised ginger, cloves, peach kernels, blades 
of mace and various other flavoring substances may 
be used to make ordinary extracts for cooks and 
bakers by putting them to steep in bottles of alcohol, 
which may be drawn off into other bottles when 
strong enough and refilled. It is alcohol that burns 
when fire is set to brandy or rum for omelets or pud¬ 
ding sauces, and when the spirit used will not burn, 
a little alcohol added to it cures the difficulty. Alco¬ 
hol is useful to remove grease stains, and to clean 
silver, glass, mirrors, etc. Rose flavoring and other 
flower flavors, such as orange flower, may be made 
by steeping the flower leaves solid packed in a jar of 
sweet oil for several days, pressing out the oil and 
mixing it with alcohol, then distilling the alcohol 
which carries the flower flavor with it into another 
vessel. 

ALDERMAN’S PUDDING-Sort of custard 
pie or cheese-cake, with currants, raisins, suet, 
grated rind, bread crumbs and eggs in three pints of 
milk. 

ALE POSSET—A hot drink; an old English form 
of egg-nogg, made by pouring a pint of boiling ale 
to a dozen beaten eggs with sugar, nutmeg and, 
sometimes, a glass of brandy. Served with toast. 

ALE WIFE—An American fish of the herring 
family, smaller than a shad. 

ALEXANDRA PUDDING—A boiled bread cus¬ 
tard with fruit in it, made by filling a mould or basin 
with bread crumbs, having currants and raisins 
mixed in, and pouring in eggs mixed with cream or 
milk in custard proportions, sweetened and flavored; 
boiled 2 hours, tied down with a floured cloth. 
Cherry jam or dilute preserves for same. 

ALKANET ROOT—Used about furniture by 
the repairers; it makes a red stain for wood. 

ALKALIES—Soda, saleratus, potash, borax, lye, 
ammonia, quinine, morphine, are some of the alka¬ 
lies; they neutralize acids by combining with them 
in the form of gas and salts, hence act as antidotes 
to acid poisons; they combine with oils and fats in 
the form of soap; they change a red solution of 
cochineal to blue; added to the water in which green 
vegetables are boiled, they keep them green where 
otherwise the vegetables would be almost black, but 
if in excess they change the green to yellow and 
dissolve the leaves and stems. They help to restore 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


231 


ALL 

tainted meat by counteracting that part of the taint 
which is only sourness caused by hot packing and 
keeping in bulk. 

ALLEMANDE (a /’)—German style. 

ALLEMAND SAUCE—A yellow or cream-col¬ 
ored sauce made of broth seasoned with mushroom 
liquor, parsley and onion, thickened with white 
roux and yolks of eggs, and little lemon juice to 
finish. Good for fish, chicken, etc. 

ALLSPICE—Pimento, a common spice useful in 
mincemeat and common brown cakes and puddings, 
when ground, and in the whole state is used in pick¬ 
ling, in pig’s feet, tripe, sweet pickles, etc. The 
cook needs a small quantity ready in the spice box 
to add to some kinds of soup, and game entrees, the 
pastry cook uses a small amount, whole, to boil in 
gelatine jelly. 

ALLIGATOR STEAK — Slices cut from the 
fleshy tail of young alligators are sometimes cooked 
and tasted, if not eaten, from motives of curiosity, 
by Southern tourists. The meat is somewhat like 
boiled beef, is not objectionable in taste, but is 
sinewy and tough and seldom provokes a second 
trial. An English traveler in South America found 
that young alligators were regularly sought after to 
be used for food, and he partook of some, stewed, 
which he compared to the favorite flatfish sole in 
taste. 

ALLIGATOR EGGS—Are eatable and some¬ 
times displayed for sale in Florida markets. They 
are esteemed by the natives of the West Indies, and 
so are crocodile’s eggs in the East. 

ALLIGATOR APPLE—Name of the custard 
apple of the West Indies. Eaten raw. It is called 
the coster in the British West Indies, and being 
formerly sold by peddlers in London caused them to 
be called costermongers, a name now applied to all 
small peddlers of marketings. 

ALLIGATOR PEAR —A fruit of the West 
Indies. Is common also in Mexico where it is called 
the avocado (advocate). It is eaten raw in the same 
ways as muskmelons, usually with salt and pepper, 
and is sliced up in salad with oil and other dressings. 

ALLUMETTES D’ANCHOIS (Fr.)—Strips of 
anchovies wrapped in paste and fried. 

ALMOND—The nut is the seed of a fruit of the 
peach kind. There are several varieties; the bitter 
almond is one of them; it is used sparingly to add 
flavor to the sweet almonds in various .preparations. 
A substitute for bitter almonds is peach kernels. 
The hard-shell almonds have a higher flavor than 
the soft-shells, and are to be preferred for cooking 
purposes. Almond Paste— The ready-prepared 
almond paste can be used in nearly all recipes where 
the directions are to blanch and pound the almonds 
in a mortar, a proceeding which consumes much 
time; the paste is about one-half almonds and one- 
half sugar. It is sold at confectionery supply stores 
jn five and ten pound tins at about twenty-five cents 


ALM 

per pound on the average. To use it, shave slices as 
thin as possible and roll and crumble the shavings 
into the sugar which is to be used to make the cakes, 
etc.; for liquid uses, pound the shavings in a mor¬ 
tar, with sugar and milk, till thoroughly divided. 
Almond Cakes — No. / -Half pound each almonds 
(or paste), sugar and flour, pound butter, 8 eggs; 
mixed like pound cake. No. 2 -Half pound almond 
paste, 4 eggs, i ounce butter, pound flour; butter 
and yolks worked with the almond paste, whites 
whipped, and flour last. No. j -Any white cake, 
silver cake, starch cake, etc., made with a proportion 
of almonds or paste, becomes almond cake. (See 
Albert cake.) Almond Rout Cakes — Almond 
paste with yolks of eggs enough to make it into a 
dough that can be worked into fancy patterns and 
shapes, glazed with gum arabic and ornamented, 
dried, then carefully baked. Almond Darioles— 
Pastry cream or frangipane, same as used to fill 
cream puffs, with almonds, almond paste or extract 
in it; bake in paste-lined patty pans. Almond 
Nougat — Made same as common peanut candy, 
with a pound of blanched and parched almonds in 
half pound of sugar melted, light brown. Almond 
Icing (yellow)—Made with a pound of sugar, half 
pound pounded almonds and yolks of eggs to make 
paste, or with almond paste, sugar and yolks; spread 
over cakes before the white icing. Almond Icing 
(white)—Ordinary white icing, with chopped al¬ 
monds or almond paste mixed in to spread on cakes 
for a first coat, and smooth icing afterwards. 
Gateau de Amandes a la Parisienne —Almond 
cream pie made by mixing almond paste in pastry 
cream or frangipane. (See almond darioles and 
cream pies.) These, however, are baked on jelly 
cake pans instead of pie plates. Almond Cup Cus¬ 
tards or Almond Creams —Boiled custard, with 
almond paste added, served in custard cups with 
whipped whites on top. Almond Macaroons 
(hard)— No. /-Almond paste or pounded almonds 
mixed with pound cake or other cake batter, small 
lumps baked on pans or paper. No. 2 -Two-thirds 
sugar, one-third almond paste or crushed or minced 
almonds, white of egg to wet it into dough; small 
lumps baked on pans or paper; slack oven. Almond 
Macaroons (soft) — Light, hollow; made with a 
pound of sugar, one ounce corn starch, half pound 
crushed almonds, three whites, beaten light, baked 
slack on sheets of paper, taken off paper by brush¬ 
ing bottom with water. Almond Fingers— Cake 
icing with almond paste mixed in, run on pans like 
lady-fingers; slack bake. Almond Cream Pie— 
Pastry cream made of milk, sugar, flour, eggs and 
crushed almonds or paste, baked in a thin crust of 
puff paste. Almond N ougat Cake— White almond 
candy in a shape, made of one pound sugar, two 
pounds shred almonds, dried and warm, and a table¬ 
spoon of vinegar to dissolve the sugar over fire; al¬ 
monds mixed in after sugar melts; flattened on slab 
and pressed into mould like a lining; can be filled 
with cream. Almond Cheese Cakes —Almond 




232 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ALM 

cream pies made in small patty pans; same mixture 
may have whipped whites of eggs stirred in or on 
top. Almond Croquantes —Nearly same as rout 
cakes; made by moistening almond paste with yolks 
of eggs, or pounding almonds and sugar and yolks 
together; rolling out.in sugar, cutting shapes, bak¬ 
ing, then dipping in boiling sugar, and drying. 
Almond Custard —Custard either baked or boiled, 
flavored with almonds or almond extract. Almond 
Cream Ice— English for almond ice cream. Almond 
Ice Cream —Any ice cream or frozen custard having 
almond paste mixed in. Bisque of Almonds —Al¬ 
mond ice cream in moulds. Almond Chocolate— 
Bleached almonds dipped in hot chocolate icing and 
dried on paper. Almond Blanc Mange —Blanc 
mange or Bavarian cream with almonds or paste 
in it. Almond Fritters —Same as cream fritters 
or fried cream made with corn starch, with almond 
paste in it, cut like cold pudding in pieces, breaded 
and fried. Almond Jumbles —Same as hard maca¬ 
roons rolled out like cookies. Almond Meringues— 
Same as egg kisses or meringues a la cream, with 
shred almonds and granulated sugar dredged on be¬ 
fore baking—may be Ailed two together with almond 
cream or served plain. Almond Omelet —An or¬ 
dinary omelet with almond paste crumbled in sugar 
strewed on it and rolled up in it, more on top, and 
glazed with hot iron. Salted Almonds —Almonds 
blanched, sprinkled with salt and a little cayenne, 
fried in butter till a rich gold color, drained on paper; 
served cold with salt. Devilled Almonds —En¬ 
glish name for salted almonds. Almond Pudding — 
No. / -Made of fine bread crumbs and almond paste 
mixed in, like bread custard pudding. No. 2- A 
steamed batter pudding with bread crumbs, almond 
paste and whipped whites in the batter, in moulds 
or cups. No. 3- A white cake mixture with raisins 
and almond paste in it; steamed. Almond Cro¬ 
quettes —Almond paste and sponge cake crumbs 
moistened with sweet wine and white of egg, made 
into croquette shapes, breaded and fried. Almond 
Soup — No. / -Any cream soup may have a puree of 
almonds added for flavor and the name. No. 2- A 
milk soup made without meat, but with a paste of 
pounded almonds and also shredded almonds in it. 
No. 3 - The original pot age a la reine is said to have 
been a cream of chicken and almonds. Almond 
Hedgehog —Made with almond paste, eggs, flour, 
butter, cream and flavoring stirred over fire until 
stiff enough to form in the shape of a hedgehog on 
dish —a sort of rich hasty pudding, in effect, or 
pastry cream made,stiffer — stuck full of split al¬ 
monds to represent spines; served with sauce like 
pudding. Almond Layer Cake— Almond paste 
stirred into boiling syrup, yolk of eggs to thicken it, 
spread between layers of thin cakes, or rolled like 
jelly roll; can be made Avhite instead of yellow by 
using whites to thicken. Almond Paste Adul¬ 
teration— It is charged against the manufacturers 
by the analysts that the almonds are first deprived 


ALU 

of their oil, which is a separate article of com¬ 
merce, and are then flavored with prussic acid. 

ALOSE (Fr.)—Shad. 

ALOUETTE (Fr.)—Lark. Aloueltes a la minute, 
a hasty dish of larks, French restaurant specialty 
prepared as follows: Sautez in butter twelve larks 
(cleaned and plucked, of course). Withdraw as 
soon as the butter has colored them. Brown in the 
same butter two or three minced shallots, a pinch 
of parsley, and twenty mushrooms sliced. As soon 
as the mushrooms are cooked, add a spoonful of 
flour, and moisten with a glassful of white wine and 
a small cupful of bouillon. Allow the larks to stew 
for some minutes in this sauce. Brown in butter 
croutons of bread, as many as there are birds. 
Serve each lark on a crouton and pour over the dish 
the mushroom sauce. Other small birds may be 
prepared in the same way. ( See Mauviettes.) 

ALOYAU (Fr.)—Sirloin of beef. 

ALPHABET PASTES — For soup; the same 
paste as macaroni and spaghetti, but stamped into 
very small letters or ornamental shapes which swell 
in boiling. Can be bought in packages, one pound 
or less. Not expensive. 

ALUM—In a powdered state has been extensively 
employed as an adulterant in bread; it has much the 
same effect as a slight tendency to sourness in the 
dough has in whitening the bread; it has some effect 
in preventing certain constituents in flour from 
changing into a gummy and transparent appear¬ 
ance, which makes the bread look dark. Bakers 
find that second-rate and soft flour is corrected by 
the use of alum, so that it produces a more saleable - 
loaf than better flour would without such treatment. 
Alum is, however, unwholesome, while not posi¬ 
tively poisonous; it is a mineral salt, which, regu¬ 
larly taken into the stomach, causes great injury to 
health; the bread adulterated with it is damaged 
also in its keeping qualities, and becomes unduly 
dry and tasteless in a day after baking. Stringent 
laws have been passed in various countries to sup¬ 
press this practice; in Paris as many as forty bakers 
at one time have been fined, their shops closed and 
their business suspended by law, as a punishment 
for using alum in bread; prosecutions, convictions, 
fines and imprisonment have occurred in most large 
cities of the United States for the same cause. The 
bakers’ journals deny now that this practice pre¬ 
vails to any considerable extent, and a state of opin¬ 
ion has been worked up in the trade which causes it 
to be considered disgraceful and dishonest to resort 
to the practice. The adulteration of bread with 
alum seems to be on the decrease. In hotel bakeries- 
there is no need of resorting to such expedients. 
Alum is one of the injurious ingredients in inferior' 
baking powders. It is useful in pickling, to make 
the pickles firm and brittle; it is used in making- 
cochineal coloring, in very small amounts, and dye¬ 
ing, etc., to set the colors. Plain alum, and its de¬ 
rivative, the bisulphate of alumina, have a remark- 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


233 


AM A 

able effect in clarifying muddy water, and the former 
is extensively employed for that purpose. A small 
quantity—a tablespoonful powdered—mixed with a 
barrel of Mississippi river water renders it quite 
clear after standing an hour or two, and the impur¬ 
ities are coagulated together by its action so that 
they can be removed by straining. The immense 
filtering works which now operate to purify the 
entire water supply of some cities are based upon 
this singular property of the mineral salt alum. 
Powdered alum is useful in case of a cut to apply 
to stop the flow of blood. 

AMANDES (Fr.)—Almonds. 

AMANDES PRALINEES (Fr.) — Burnt al¬ 
monds; parched and sugared almonds. 

AMBROSIA—Literally food for the gods; a bowl 
of sliced oranges and pineapples, grated cocoanut, 
sugar and wine. 

AMBER CLEAR SOUP — A name for clear 
soup, bouillon or consomme. 

AMBER JELLY—A name for gelatine jelly 
when of an amber or golden color. Amber is a sub¬ 
stance like jellcw glass or rosin, found on the sea 
coasts, used for mouth-pieces in pipes, and in jew- 
■ elry. 

AMBER PUDDING — A boiled or steamed 
lemon bread pudding. 

AMBERGRIS — Literal meaning grey amber, 
used by the liquorists to flavor cordials, bitters, etc.; 
highly valued in perfumery. It is a substance of 
the consistency of wax, found in sperm whales; 
also found floating in masses, weighing one or two 
hundred pounds in the Indian Ocean. Ambergris 
flavor is said to be a favorite with the Prince of 
Wales, and confectioners and caterers use it the 
more on that account. Ambergris Essence —Made 
of an ounce of ambergris steeped in a quart of proof 
spirit in a warm place for a month, the mixture is 
then filtered. Two or three drops will flavor a quart. 
Ambergris Cream —A whipped cream stiffened 
with gelatine (Bavarian cream), flavored with am¬ 
bergris essence and colored yellow, set in a mould 
on ice. Ambergris Jelly —Gelatine or calf’s-foot- 
jelly, flavored with ambergris. 

AMONTILLADO—Name of a popular brand of 
sherry, served with fish. 

AMMONIA — Hartshorn; sal volatile / volatile 
alkali / smelling salts. Carbonate of ammonia is 
used by bakers to raise cakes; it is much stronger 
and more effective for the purpose than baking pow¬ 
ders. The quantity used is about the same weight 
for weight as baking powder; the cost, in an aver¬ 
age way, is about the same. The ammonia changes 
to vapor in the oven and expands the dough it is 
mixed with. The method of using is to crush the 
lumps to a white powder and dissolve it in the liquid 
that makes the dough. Ammonia is but little used 
in hotels, the odor from the baking being objection¬ 
able. A proportion of ammonia mixed with baking 


ANC 

powder makes it stronger as long as it is kept 
tightly closed in glass jars. Liquid ammonia is one 
of the most serviceable alkalies for cleaning silver 
and removing grease stains. A small lump of am¬ 
monia dropped into the water with peas or aspara 
gus or other green vegetables, will keep them green 
while boiling. 

AMOURETTES DE VEAU (Fr.)-Tendons of 
veal; the gristly part of the breast; the edge of the 
brisket stewed tender. 

ANANAS (Fr.)—Pineapple. 

ANCHOIS (Fr.)—Anchovy. 

ANCHOVY—A little sea fish caught in the Medi¬ 
terranean. It has a high flavor, is used as an ap¬ 
petizer and in sauces. It is preserved in salt brine; 
can be bought either in bottles or small kegs of one 
or two quarts’ size. Anchovies as a cold hors 
d'ceuvre are served uncooked. Wipe, split, serve in 
oil like sardines with garnish of eggs, parsley, lem¬ 
ons, etc., and, uncooked, they are cut in pieces in 
some sorts of salads. Anchovy Essence is a pink- 
colored, oily, thick sort of sauce; can be bought in 
bottles. One London firm is said to have almost a 
monopoly of the manufacture, making nine-tenths 
of all the anchovy essence used in the world. The 
essence consists of pounded anchovies simmered 
with water, vinegar, spices, mushroom catsup and 
the brine the fish were preserved in, all passed 
through a seive, bottled and corked down while hot. 
Adulterated or spurious samples have been found to 
contain starch for consistency and Venetian red for 
color. Anchovy essence is used to flavor fish sauce, 
(see admiral sauce or sauce a Pamir a l), and as a 
finish to turtle soup, and especially for imitations or 
soups made of fresh water turtles. The largest sea 
turtles possess the anchovy flavor so strong as to 
make them scarcely eatable. Anchovy Paste —An¬ 
other name for anchovy butter. Anchovy Butter— 
Anchovies washed, boned, pounded with soft butter 
through a seive; may be mixed with parsley and 
lemon juice; is used to spread upon hot, broiled beef¬ 
steak and upon toast, also in pats to garnish dishes 
of broiled or boiled fish. It can be made as well by 
stirring anchovy essence into softened butter. An¬ 
chovy Powder —Anchovies passed through a seive, 
made into a paste with flour, baked dry in thin cakes, 
powdered and used for flavoring. Fried Ancho¬ 
vies —Split, boned, dipped in fritter batter and fried 
same as anchois a la d’Horly. Anchovy Sauce— 
Butter sauce, hot, highly flavored either with an¬ 
chovy essence or chopped anchovies and lemon juice; 
served with fish and steaks. Anchovy Omelet— 
Fillets (boneless sides) of anchovies laid on an om¬ 
elet, not rolled but flat in the pan, another flat om¬ 
elet turned upon it and the cooking of the inside 
finished in the oven. Anchovy Toast— Slices of 
toast, either buttered and with the boneless sides of 
anchovies with mustard and cayenne laid upon 
them, or toast spread with anchovy butter. An¬ 
chovy Patties — Small pieces of fish forcemeat 








234 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ANC 

mixed with anchovy butter baked inside of two flats 
of puff paste. Anchovy Tartines— Round and 
thin slices of bread or biscuits, buttered, anchovies 
in oil (like sardines) cut in thin strips and arranged 
crosswise upon them, the spaces filled with minced 
eggs, pickles, etc.; lunch dish. Anchovy Sand¬ 
wich —Thin sliced bread spread with anchovy butter 
or puree of anchovies with butter. Anchovy 
Eggs —Hard boiled eggs cut in halves, the yolks 
taken out, rubbed through a seive, seasoned with 
anchovy essence and butter, put back in the whites 
served, garnished, either hot or cold. Anchovy 
Breakfast Cake —Rice (boiled) stirred up with an¬ 
chovy essence, butter, flour and eggs, and baked. 
Allumettes d’ Anchois— {See page 2JI.) 

ANCHOVY PEAR—A fruit of the West Indies. 

ANCIENNE (a /’)—Ancient style; in the old- 
fashioned way. 

ANDALOUSE (a /’)—In Andalusian or Spanish 
style. Andalusian Soup— A brown beef soup with 
puree of tomatoes added, and slight flavor of garlic. 

ANDOUILLES (Fr.)—Chitterlings. 

ANDOUILLETTES (Fr.)—Small sausages. 

ANDOUILLETTES AUX HUITRES (Fr.)— 
Oyster sausages. (See oysters.) 

ANDOUILLETTES DE TROYES GRILLEES 
—Veal sausages broiled; a specialty of the great 
London grill rooms. 

ANGELS ON HORSEBACK—English foolish 
name for oysters wrapped in bacon and broiled. 

ANGEL FOOD—A fanciful name found in 
many cook books, applied to some light dessert, us¬ 
ually of whipped cream; also to a white sponge 
cake. 

ANGEL CAKE—Fanciful name of the whitest 
and lightest of all cakes; a white sponge cake of 
recent invention, made of one pound sugar, one 
pound whites, half pound flour, one ounce cream 
tartar, and some flavoring. 

ANGEL FISH—A sea fish of the shark family, 
eatable, but not desirable; named so by sailors on 
account of its broad, wing-like fins. 

ANGELICA—A plant, the stalks of which are 
preserved like citron or watermelon rind. It is val¬ 
ued for its green color for decorative purposes in 
confectionery; often mentioned in Old World con¬ 
fectionery books, but seldom met with and scarcely 
obtainable in this country; old-fashioned or obsolete. 

ANGELICA WINE—A California sweet wine 
made from angelica grapes; useful for frozen 
punches, pudding, sauces, wine jelly, etc., and not 
expensive. 

ANGLAISE (a /’)—In English style. 

ANGUILLES (Fr.)—Eels. 

ANILINE—The brightest coloring for confec¬ 
tionery. The red shades from pink to purple are 
perfectly harmless, and if they were not the quan- 


ANT 

tity required to color is so extremely small that no 
injury could ensue. The greens and yellows in ani¬ 
line colors are all more or less poisonous and cannot 
be admitted to the pastry or confectionery room. 
Aniline is one of the many products of petroleum. 
Some years ago, when petroleum and the substances 
obtained from it were new and but little understood, 
a French chemist undertook to ascertain the effects 
of aniline upon the human system by taking doses 
of it himself, increasing the quantity daily, and 
came to these conclusions, viz.: Aniline, pure, has 
no effect, either good or bad. The chemicals used 
to make aniline red are perfectly harmless. The 
chemicals used to make aniline green, blue and yel¬ 
low, are arsenic and other injurious substances. 
Consequently the reds may be safely used, but not 
any other colors. The quantity needed is scarcely 
more than five cents’ worth for six months; the dip 
of a cork will color a gallon; buy dry aniline and 
dissolve in warm water. 

ANISEED — A small seed used for flavoring, 
nearly resembling caraway and celery seed; used oy 
bakers and liquorists. Anisette —A liquor like- 
absinthe and kummel, made from aniseed in spirits. 
Used sometimes for flavoring punches and sherbets. 
Aniseed or Anisette Rusks— Sponge cake or 
other kinds flavored with a spoonful of aniseed, 
baked, sliced, then dried in the oven. Anisette 
Slices —Slices of cake freshly cut from a cake of 
Scotch shortbread, which has been flavored by hav¬ 
ing aniseed mixed in. Aniseed is sometimes mixed 
with rye-bread and various sorts of cakes by Ger¬ 
man bakers. Its price is unsettled, but is usually 
about So cents per pound at retail. 

ANNA POTATOES OR POMMES A 
L’ANNA—Said to have originated at Delmonico’s. 
Potatoes pared and sliced raw; replaced with butter 
between each slice and baked until done. Rich and 
expensive on account of the large quantity of very 
best butter required. 

ANNATTO—Butter color. It is used to color 
butterine and other spurious butters, and is used in 
the creameries to give the uniform color to the best 
butter as well. The natural yellow of pure grass 
butter is different from annatto color in that the nat¬ 
ural is at the deepest only the bright yellow of the 
sunflower, annatto makes an orange color. Mixed 
lots of butter from country stores, no two samples 
being alike, are sometimes worked over with an¬ 
natto to make marketable as creamery butter. An¬ 
natto is a gummy substance, something like wax, of 
a dull red color in its dry state. Obtained from the 
fruit of a tree that grows in the tropics. Is often 
called Spanish annatto. Costs about fifty cents a 
pound. It cannot be dissolved perfectly in water; 
dissolves partially in milk, in cream, and most 
thoroughly in warm oil or melted butter. 

ANT ELOPE The antelope of the western 
plains, being the fleetest of foot and most numerous, 
survives the buffalo, mountain sheep and black-tail 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


235 


ANT 

deer and still constitutes a very considerable portion 
of the game supply of the cities. Antelope meat is 
not as highly esteemed as venison, bnt may easily 
be mistaken for it in the market. Only the hind 
quarters are shipped in and they are usually 
wrapped in the skin of the fore-quarter, in addition 
to their being unskinned. The hair is very loose, 
coming out by the handfuls and proves very trouble¬ 
some to remove from the meat if once brought in 
contact. Antelope is the tenderest or softest of all 
meat; young animals are excellent eating; the flesh 
of the older ones is as dark as calf’s liver and is apt 
to have a musky taste, which, if not really objec¬ 
tionable to those who like game, still serves to dis¬ 
tinguish it from deer meat and prevents its substitu¬ 
tion. Cranberry or currant jelly is the best sauce. 
Antelope Steaks —Are slices cut from the leg; 
should be cut thick and slightly flattened. Ante¬ 
lope Cutlets —The loin cut into chops. Saddle 
of Antelope —The two loins undivided. Haunch 
of Antelope —The two loins and legs undivided, 
but shortened by removing the inferior part of the 
legs. The fore-quarters of antelope are not unfit to 
eat, the rib chops and shoulders being good, but are 
thought too light to pay for shipping. To Cook 
Antelope —Besides the hunters’ ways of broiling, 
frying and stewing, and the specially American 
method of baking and serving with cranberry sauce, 
antelope may be advantageously cooked and sauced 
in any of the ways prescribed for venison, roebuck, 
and the like; young antelope is specially good 
larded with fat pork and cooked like filleted rabbits. 

ANTIDOTES—Any substances which counter¬ 
act the effects of poisons. When poison has been 
swallowed, first and instantly dilute the poison with 
large draughts of warm water, either clear, or, if 
the particular poison is known, containing the pro¬ 
per antidote. Exite vomiting. Protect as much as 
possible the lining of the stomach from contact with 
the poison by large and frequent doses of sweet oil, 
mucilage of gum arabic, flaxseed tea, milk, melted 
lard or butter. A general antidote , where the name 
of the poison is unknown, is a mixture of carbonate 
of magnesia, powdered charcoal, and hydrated 
sesquioxide of iron, equal parts in water. Mineral 
acid poisons are counteracted by powdered chalk, 
whiting, magnesia, or lime scraped from a wall and 
stirred in water. Also by soap suds, sweet milk, 
soda or saleratus, all in very small doses at first. In 
case of oil of vitriol or sulphuric acid, water must 
not be used too freely at first, as heat and gas are 
dangerously produced in the stomach by their meet¬ 
ing {see acid and alkali). Lye, caustic potash, am¬ 
monia and other alkaline poisons are counteracted 
by vinegar, lemon juice, or acidulated water, to be 
followed immediately with sweet oil, mucilage and 
an emetic. Arsenic, rat poisons, poisonous color- 
ings, pans green, etc., give five or six whites of 
eggs beaten in a cup of water, or flour and water, 
flaxseed tea or magnesia, and administer an emetic. 
After the vomiting, give hydrated sesquioxide of 


API 

iron in tablespoon doses every fifteen minutes. This 
is the best known antidote for arsenic. Corrosive 
sublimate or bed-bug poison, treatment the same as 
for arsenic. Phosphorus, cochroach paste, matches, 
give large quantities of warm water containing cal¬ 
cined magnesia, chalk or whiting. Verdigris y 
give sugar, milk and whites of eggs in large quan¬ 
tities, then strong tea, but no acids of any kind. 
Latidanum, opium, morphine, give an emetic, strong 
coffee, brandy, whisky, and keep the patient awake 
by any means. Poisonous fungi, toadstools, false 
mushrooms, give emetics and castor oil or olive oil, 
then vinegar, lemon juice or cider, and administer 
ether and antispasmodic remedies. Tannin is an 
antidote, and an infusion of gall nuts or oak bark is 
effective. 

ANTISEPTICS—Among substances called anti¬ 
septics or disinfectants, are carbolic acid, salicylic 
acid, boracic acid, chloride of zinc, and iodoform. 
Chloride of lime, in water used for scrubbing and 
washing, is the ordinary disinfectant for floors, fur¬ 
niture and linen. 

ANTHRACITE—The name of the kind of coal 
commonly called hard coal. It is nearly pure car¬ 
bon, makes no flame, but when in combustion at 
white heat, it will convert a spray of water into 
flame, and cooking operations are sometimes ac¬ 
celerated by that means. 

ANTS—Small red ants overrun the safes and cup¬ 
boards where eatables are kept; they are particularly 
troublesome by getting into sugar and syrup; they 
will attack a sponge cake, go all through and make 
an ant-hill of it, and will eat bread, but will not 
touch any cake that has butter in it, nor any kind of 
pastry made with butter or lard. The small black 
ants are the most troublesome about cooked meat 
and in clothing, and from their power to sting. A 
temporary protection may be had by setting the feet 
of the safes and cupboards where victuals are kept 
in bowls of water. When the ants can be traced to 
their burrows, they may be exterminated most easily 
by throwing boiling water around frequently. 
When that is not practicable, it is recommended to 
take corrosive sublimate—say half a pound—and 
dissolve it in a quart of alcohol, and apply the mix¬ 
ture to their haunts with a brush. Black ants may 
be driven away or destroyed by dusting with pep¬ 
per. Powdered alum or borax sprinkled on the 
shelves and runways are also recommended. 

APICIUS—A Roman spendthrift, gourmand or 
glutton, whose extravagance made him memorable. 
There were three of the same name at different pe¬ 
riods, distinguished by the same propensities. The 
second one seems to have spent most of his time 
sailing about to various ports, trying to find some¬ 
thing better to eat, and had a special hankering after 
large lobsters. The most famous one had a middle 
name, when he wrote it in full it was Marcus Gabius 
Apicius. He set up a school of cookery, and spent 
millions of dollars in pampering his appetite. After 





236 


THE STEWARD 


APP 

a while, when he had got so that nothing tasted 
good to him any more, and he had only half a mill¬ 
ion dollars left to hire professional cooks with, he 
committed suicide to save further expenses. Api 
cian F easts —or banquets worthy of Apicius, are 
expressions sometimes used by reporters. 

APPERT’S PROCESS—The now common can¬ 
ning process of preserving fruit and vegetables and 
all sorts of eatables by hermetically sealing and 
cooking, was formerly called Appert’s process of 
preserving, after M. Appert, a French chemist, who 
discovered it. It is claimed now that his was but a 
re-discovery, and that the same method of preserv¬ 
ing was known to the inhabitants of Pompeii. It 
is said that jars of figs, sealed with wax and still in 
a good state of preservation after the laps of many 
-centuries, were found in the excavations of that 
buried city. 

APPETIZERS— Appetissants , cold hors d'oeuvres, 
kickshaws, side dishes; these are the small things 
eaten as a preliminary to a good dinner, supposed to 
create an appetite for something more substantial, 
though, as one of George Eliot’s characters says: 
“It is poor eating when the flavor o’ the meat lies i’ 
the cruets.” The favorite in the United States, 
probably, is raw oysters, four or six on a plate, with 
half a lemon and crackers. Next to oysters, small 
•clams. Others are as follows: Sardines au Par¬ 
mesan —Strips of toast spread with butter and grated 
Parmesan cheese and a sardine on top. Roties a 
la Minime —Split sardines on oblong pieces of fried 
bread, served with a sauce of oil, vinegar and mus¬ 
tard. Canapes a la Prince de Galles —Very 
small rolls filled with chopped ham, anchovies, 
gherkins and truffles, the top covered with asmc 
mayonaise. Tartines de Caviare —Russian cav¬ 
iare spread on small slices of buttered toast. Bis- 
•cuits a la Diable — Thin beaten biscuits spread 
with chopped anchovies, hard-boiled egg, capers 
and parsley. Croutes a l’Indienne —Chopped an¬ 
chovies or sardines, eggs, capers, red pepper and 
shallots on small buttered toast. Croutes aux 
Anchois — Small rounds of fried bread spread with 
anchovy butter and a filleted anchovy coiled on top. 
Croutes aux Sardines —Same as the preceding. 
Canapes aux Anchois — Rounds of fried bread 
with chopped anchovies and capers and yolk and 
white of egg arranged in quarters. Sardines a la 
Martinache —Sardines dipped in tomato catsup laid 
upon toast spread with butter and parsley. Olives 
Farcies aux Sardines —Stoned olives stuffed with 
chopped sardine placed on top of small rounds of 
fried bread spread with mayonaise and decorated 
with capers. Arlets a la Bologna —Strips of 
brown bread and butter sprinkled with finely chop¬ 
ped spring onions, a thin slice of sausage or potted 
meat and spot of tabasco sauce. Hors d’CEuvres 
Variees —may be: Farced olives with cucumbers 
and pulled bread, smoked salmon in thin strips on 
brown bread and butter, with garden cress cut short 


’S HANDBOOK. 


APP 

and sprinkled; caviare with potted tongue and thin 
biscuit; anchovies or sardines on bread and butter 
with sliced radishes and leaves of water cress; 
Roquefort cheese with green butter and radishes on 
graham crackers; anchovies and potted ham on wa¬ 
fers; sardines scraped, boned, laid in strips cross¬ 
wise on buttered roll, with capers in the interstices, 
and a sprinkling of chili vinegar; sardines in halves, 
minced yolk and white and parsley placed ornament¬ 
ally on bread and butter, sprinkled with tarragon 
vinegar; caviare spread on Vienna bread garnished 
with water cress; shrimps or prawns on rounds of 
bread buttered, with the smallest lettuce leaves be¬ 
tween, sprinkled with tarragon vinegar; grated ham 
and tongue on rounds of bread buttered, sprinkled 
with minced spring onions; caviare spread on dia¬ 
monds of rye or other bread, garnished with lemon 
and parsley; thin slices of large lemons with sardines 
or anchovies coiled, bread and butter and parsley. 

( For other suggestions see anchovies , sardines , cav¬ 
iare , etc.) At club dinners and other entertainments 
many of these relishes are served with the cheese at 
the close of the meal. A recent innovation is to 
serve slices of mushmelon or cantelope with salt and 
pepper, among the hors d'ceuvres. 

APPLES—Uses of: Appleade —A sort of beer 
made of Yz bushel apples, baked and mashed, 2 
pounds rice boiled soft in 2 gallons water, all put in 
a tub having a faucet, 7 gallons boiling water and 4 
pounds sugar added, and some yeast, when cool. 
After 24 hours, strain off into a tight keg for use or 
sale. Bottled Appleade —Same as above except 
using about an ounce of Irish moss instead of rice, 
and lemon rind added; bottled, and cork tied down. 
Apple Champagne —Flavor said to be like cham¬ 
pagne; made of 2 pounds apples, baked and mashed 
with 1 gallon boiling water, Y pound sugar added 
and yeast when cool; allow to ferment 24 hours,' 
strained through flannel, bottled and corks tied or 
wired. Apple and Apricot Compotes or Me¬ 
ringues — A dish buttered and spread with fine 
bread crumbs, nearly filted with mixed apple and 
apricot marmalade, meringue or frosting on top, and 
baked. Compote of Apples — Apples in halves 
dropped into boiling sugar syrup, cooked carefully 
without breaking until transparent; syrup flavored, 
perhaps colored, is boiled down thick and poured 
over them cold. Apple Butter —Apples pared and 
cored, boiled down in an equal measure of sweet 
cider; is light brown, thick as marmalade; will keep 
for months, can be bought in various sized packages, 
is often imitated with stewed dried apples; Apple 
Charlotte— A pan or mould lined with thin slices 
of bread dipped in butter, nearly filled with stewed 
apple or marmalade, top covered with bread, baked 
brown, glazed with egg and sugar. Charlotte 
de Pommes a la Parisienne— An apple charlotte 
in which the slices are cut to form a pattern on the 
bottom and sides of a thickly buttered mould, the. 
edges being dipped in egg; after baking turned out 
whole and glazed with egg and sugar, set in the 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


237 


APP 

oven to crisp, or salamandered. German Souffle— 
Thick-stewed apple in a dish, thick yolk of egg 
boiled custard poured upon it, white of egg whipped 
stiff, sweetened, flavored, piled on top and lightly 
colored in the oven. German Apple Cake —A 
very thin sheet of light roll dough spread upon a 
baking pan, cored and quartered apples pressed into 
the dough raw, sugar sifted over, allowed to rise; 
then baked until apples are done. Maryland 
Apple Cake —A shallow mould lined with sweet 
tart paste, nearly filled with thick-stewed apples or 
marmalade, well flavored with ground cinnamon, 
paste on top, dry baked, turned out when cold and 
sugared over; is also served warm as a sweet entree. 
Friar’s Omelet— A pan or mould spread with soft 
butter and all the fine bread crumbs that will stick, 
apple marmalade mixed with eggs and nutmeg to 
nearly fill, covered with bread, baked until set, 
turned out and sugared over. English Apple 
Pudding —A deep bowl lined with short paste, filled 
•with sliced apples, covered with paste, tied down in 
cloth, boiled an hour, served with sauce or sugar 
and butter. Boiled Apple Dumplings — Short 
paste made with y 2 pound of shortening to i pound 
flour, rolled thin, cored apple inclosed in it, dropped 
into boiling water till done. Steamed Apple 
Dumplings —Paste with y pound shortening to i 
pound flour, apple core filled with sugar, etc., in¬ 
closed and steamed. Baked Apple Dumplings— 
Medium puff paste or rich short paste, apple in¬ 
closed, leaves of paste or other ornaments on top, 
washed over with egg and water, and baked’ 
Apple Dumplings in Sauce — Made same as 
steamed, but baked in a pan of sweetened milk and 
water. Apple Short-cake —Extra rich, ripe apples 
chopped raw, spread between short-cakes, (like 
strawberry short-cake) eaten with sweetened cream. 
Apple Cobbler —Southern States’ name for apple 
pie baked in an ordinary baking pan and cut out in 
squares to serve. Brown Betty —A buttered pud¬ 
ding dish filled with alternate layers of bread 
crumbs, thinly sliced apples, sugar, little nutmeg, 
finished with crumbs on top and bits of butter, baked 
brown; served as pudding. Apple Omelet — 
Stewed apples beaten smooth, 5 tablespoons of it 
with 3 of sugar and 1 of flour stirred into 3 well 
beaten eggs with 1 spoonful of brandy; can be either 
baked or cooked in frying pans. Frosted Apples— 
Apples pared, not cored, stewed in syrup until, 
transparent, without breaking, then drained, dipped 
in beaten white of egg and in powdered sugar, and 
dried in the oven with very little heat. Apple 
Fritters —Pared and cored apples cut in rings, dip¬ 
ped in fritter batter, fried in hot fat, served with 
sweet sauce; also served with roast duck, goose and 
pork. Apple and Cream Pudding—A mould but 
tered and lined with rich short paste, quarters of 
apples built up all over the surface of the paste, the 
middle filled with pastry cream or frangipane made 
thick, paste cover, tied in a cloth and boiled an hour 
or more, turned out and diluted jam poured over. 


APP 

Rice Apple Dumplings —Cored and sugared apples 
inclosed in a covering of boiled rice pounded to a 
paste, floured outside, tied up separately in cloths 
and boiled until apples are done; served with sauce. 
Apple and Rice Pudding —Any rice pudding with 
quartered apples cooked in it. Apple Tapioca— 
A pudding without eggs, milk or butter, made by 
soaking y 2 pound tapioca for 2 hours in 1 quart of 
water, stirring in a little sugar, spread in a dish or 
pan, the top covered with quartered apples, and 
baked. Apple Tapioca Pudding— The pudding 
made firm with tapioea and eggs, and sliced apples 
mixed in, and baked. Apple Snow —Apples stewed 
thick and pressed through a colander, beaten up 
when cold, then mixed with whipped white of egg 
and powdered sugar; served cold in saucers of 
cream. Apple Marmalade —Apples stewed thick 
and pressed through a colander; sugar, orange peel, 
lemon peel, cloves or any other suitable flavor added, 
dried down till thick enough to keep without spoil¬ 
ing. Apple Sauce —Stewed slices of apples with a 
little sugar and water. Apple Puree — Same as 
apple snow, served in custard cups with whipped 
cream on top. Apple Trifle —Same as apple snow, 
with thick, cold boiled custard read}'; the puree 
piled in a glass dish and the custard around it. 
Apples and Rice —Same as compote of apples, rice 
cooked with milk and little sugar, smoothed over in 
the serving dish, and apple on top, custard or col¬ 
ored wine syrup poured over or around it. Apple 
Bread— One-third apples, two-thirds flour, apples 
stewed as dry as can be, mashed through a strainer 
and used to mix the dough instead of water; yeast, 
etc., same as usual; baked in loaves Dried Apple 
Bread — (/) Dried apple boiled until done [but not 
mashed], drained, stirred up in corn bread, baked in 
flat cakes. ( 2 ) The same stirred up in short-cakes of 
wheat flour and baked an inch thick in a frying pan 
over a slow fire. Snitz —Pennsylvania-Dutch name 
for dried apples. Lodwaerrick —Ditto for apple 
butter. Dried Apples —Are of two or more kinds, 
the home-made or sundried generally the cheaper, 
but by many preferred, and the light-colored, nearly 
white evaporated, which are in some places treated 
with sulphur fumes and dried in a current or cold 
blast of air upon seives moving upwards in a dark¬ 
ened shaft, whence they emerge almost ready for 
packing; these apples, with careful cooking, can be 
restored very nearly to the appearance of the fresh 
fruit. Apple Pie — (/) A pie plate covered with 
rich, short paste, heaped full of thin-sliced apples 
with sugar and nutmeg or cinnamon dusted in, edges 
wetted, cover of paste put on, washed over with egg 
and water. (2) A lower crust only, of short paste, 
stewed apple filling, strips across top. (j) A thin 
bottom crust with thicker edges of puff short paste, 
raw apples very thin sliced in, sugar, butter, wine 
mace added; no top crust; bake slowly. English 
Apple Pie— A deep earthenware dish lined with 
short paste, filled with sliced apples, sugared and 
flavored; baked with a crust on top. French Apple 






238 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


APP 

Pie or Tourte —Small pie plate covered with thin 
sheet of puff paste with thicker edges, filled with 
apple marmalade; baked without top crust. Apple 
Turnovers —Rounds of rich paste cut with scall¬ 
oped edges or plain; a spoonful of apple marmalade 
in center, doubled over to half-moon shape, egged 
over, dipped in granulated sugar and baked till 
glazed. Gateaux Foures de Pommes a la Par- 
isienne —The Fi-ench name of apple turnovers. 
Chartreuse de Pommes— A chartreuse of apples 
made by parboiling slices of apples, cut in shapes, 
in strong jelly of different colors, building up the 
slices on the inner surface of a mould wetted with 
jelly and set in ice, and filling the center with jelly- 
stiffened marmalade; to be turned out and served 
with cream and cake. Bavarois aux Pommes— 
Whipped cream and apple marmalade mixed with 
gelatine enough to set the mixture firm enough to 
turn out of the mould. Beignets de Pommes a la 
d’Orleans —Apple fritters with a sweet or wine 
sauce. Beignets de Pommes a la Bavarie —Ap¬ 
ples soaked in brandy, rolled in flour and fried. 
Crisped Apples- American name for the preceding. 
Buttered Apples —Halved apples baked in a cov¬ 
ered pan with butter and sugar, and served on thin 
rounds of fried bread. Pommes au Riz a la 
Conde — Halved apples stewed in syrup, served 
either upon or around a shape of boiled rice, and 
diluted apricot jam poured over. Baked Apples — 
The fruit cored, not pared, core holes filled with 
sugar, butter and little cinnamon; baked with very 
little water, and basted. Pain de Pommes a la 
Russe —A border mould of apple jam or marmalade 
stiffened with gelatine, turned out cold, center filled 
with whipped cream and melted currant jelly round. 
Apples a la Portugaise —Like the miro on; 
stewed in syrup, not divided, syrup colored red, re¬ 
duced and poured over; apples, garnished with spots 
of red jelly. Apples a la Cherbourg —Cut in 
blocks or shape of bottle corks with tube cutter, 
compoted in lemon syrup; eaten with cream. 
Apples a la Marie Stuart —Baked apple dump¬ 
lings in puff paste, the apple core-holes filled with 
thick cream before baking. Apple Custard Pies— 
Several variations are in use; in England they are 
called puddings; Marlborough pudding is one; 
apple marmalade is mixed either with eggs and wine, 
or with eggs, butter, wine and grated lemon rind, or 
with milk or cream and eggs, etc., and in all those 
ways, as well as with curd; bread crumbs, currants 
and eggs, goad pies, tarts and cheese cakes are made 
and still further varied by frosting the top of some 
and making various sizes and shapes. Apple Fool— 
Old English name for stewed fruit, mixed and eaten 
with milk, cream or custard. Apple Tartlets or 
Puffs— Flat rounds of puff paste, size of biscuits, 
the middle cut halfway through with smaller cutter; 
baked dry; they rise high; the center is taken out 
and deep cavity filled with apple marmatade or jelly. 
AfpleJelly —The jelly-making quality of apples, 
varies greatly; crab apples yield the strongest and 


APP 

clearest; some seeding varieties, good for nothing 
else, make the best jelly; i pound of sugar to i pound 
of fruit and y 2 pint water, boiled, strained through 
flannel, tested by cooling, and, if not firm, boiled a 
longer lime. (See jellies.') Vol-au-Vent of Ap¬ 
ples —Puff paste laid on a pie plate as if for a pie; 
a mark like a lid cut around near the edge with the 
point of a knife; when baked and risen the lid lifted 
off and inside filled with compote apples. Gateau 
de Pommes —A mould of stiffened apple marmalade; 
served with custard. Gateau de Pommes aux 
Apricots — A mould of gelatine-stiffened apple 
marmalade covered with apricot marmalade. Miro- 
ton de Pommes —Cored apples, not divided, care¬ 
fully cooked in syrup, drained, garnished in a dish 
with dried or glace fruits; red, currant jelly diluted 
with wine poured over. Croquettes de Pommes— 
Apple paste cut in pieces, breaded and fried. 
Apple Paste— Marmalade dried down gradually in 
a cool oven till it can be spread out in a sheet like a 
piece of dough, cut in any shape, rolled in powdered 
sugar; variously colored and flavored, this apple 
paste is used by bakers to ornament cakes, and is 
sold as candy in various fancy forms. Apple 
Sandwich —A layer of apple sauce on a slice of 
bread, covered with a layer of whipped cream. 
Fried Apples —A breakfast dish, also served with 
all forms of pork; commonly sliced without paring 
or coring; the peel helping to preserve their shape 
the slices are simply fried a few at a time in frying 
(saute) pans with a spoonful or two of pork fat or 
butter, and when brown on one side are turned over 
one by one; large quantities can be done in the oven 
if not too many in the pans at once. Broiled Ap¬ 
ples —Same way as broiled potatoes; slices done in 
the double-wire broiler, buttered while cooking. 
Apples with Sausages —Fried slices, same as with 
spareribs and pork tenderloin; this is the German as 
well as American habit; the Flemings eat baked ap¬ 
ples with black puddings. Steamed or Boiled 
Apple Roll — A thick layer of chopped apples 
spread upon a thin sheet of short paste or biscuit 
dough, rolled up, tied in a cloth at both ends and in 
the middle, boiled or steamed an hour or longer; 
served with rich sauce. Baked Apple Roll —The 
preceding egged over and baked with a greased 
paper cover over; crust needs to be richer. Painted 
Ladies — Whole (pared) apples cooked in syrup 
under cover in the oven; when done, each side col¬ 
ored with red jelly, syrup condensed with wine 
poured over cold. German Apple Mould —One 
pint Rhine wine, i pound sugar, i pound apples 
stewed and mashed through a colander, gelatine to 
set it, colored pink, moulded; eaten cold. Apple 
Batter Pudding —Pared and cored apples baked in 
a pan under paper cover; when done, an egg batter 
made with little flour poured over the apples, and 
baking continued. Another way is to bake a thin 
Yorkshire pudding with sliced apples in it. Apple 
Cider — The expressed juice of apples. Apple 
Brandy —Distilled from either cider or crushed ap- 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


sea 


APP 

pies. AppleJack — New Jersey name for apple 
brandy; it is plentiful in most of the eastern states, 
is generally cheaper than any other spirit and serves 
a good purpose in cooking, for sauces and for mak¬ 
ing flavoring extracts. Cidre Royal or Eau de 
Vie de Cidre —French name for apple jack. “ It is 
the favorite spirit drunk in Normandy; it is also 
called Calvados, and generally known as such by 
the Parisians, being chiefly made by the apple- 
growers in the Calvados department. It is in every 
way preferable to the so-called cognac, which is 
made out of anything but wine; sold in France.” 
Whisky or Brandy Apples— Pared and cored ap¬ 
ples, to every pound y pound sugar, i lemon, gill 
whisky or brandy, spices; apples simmered in them 
without breaking, same as compote apples; placed 
in jars, syrup boiled down and poured over them; 
will keep for months. Frozen Apple Cream— 
Marmalade mixed with as much cream, whipped, 
filled into fancy cases and set in the freezing box to 
solidify; served as ice cream. Apple Ice Cream— 
Apple marmalade and cream or custard mixed and 
frozen. Apple Ice —Stewed apples flavored with 
orange and cloves, with twice as much water, well 
sweetened, frozen and beaten up with whipped white 
of egg in the freezer to make it creamy. Apple 
and Rice Frozen Pudding- Custard with boiled 
rice and thick-stewed apples frozen; also, apple ice 
and rice custard are frozen separately, but served to¬ 
gether. Apples —Stewed with sour krout and also 
with cabbage; also boiled whole, with kidneys, are 
considered an improvement to the respective dishes 
in certain localities. Apple and Water Cress 
Salad —Shredded apples and water cress cut to a 
corresponding size, tossed up with salt, vinegar, 
pepper and oil. Apples in Mincemeat —A surplus 
may be used up in this way, as mincemeat will keep 
and will sell. Apples Canned —They are put up 
in gallon cans for use in regions where there are no 
fresh apples; are good for nearly all the purposes of 
the fresh fruit, being generally in unbroken quarters, 
and being free from waste; are not dear. Apples 
to Keep —A better way than in the cellar is to make 
a heap of them on the ground in the orchard; if a 
large quantity, the heap should be a long one, as ap¬ 
ples heat if in great bulk; cover with dry straw or 
hay, then cover with 6 inches of earth; increase the 
depth of covering before severe frost comes, but the 
apples are better kept cold than too warm. If a very 
large lot, have a wooden pipe ventilator inserted. 
Should apples accidentally freeze in the pit, let them 
alone and keep air from them, and they will come 
out afterwards unhurt, but if handled whi'e frozen 
will be fit for nothing but cider. Car-loads of apples 
frozen on the railroads during sudden storms are 
often saved by being at once worked up into cider. 

APRICOTS—Name is from two words signify¬ 
ing early ripe. It is mentioned by the gardener in 
Shakespeare’s “Winter’s Tale,” yet only grows in 
England when protected by a south wall. It reaches 
the greatest perfection in California, perhaps also ' 


APP 

in Australia, where, a traveler says, some were 
brought to him three inches in diameter. It is 
plentiful in France; is a fruit of a delightful flavor 
and most useful. Ripe Apricots —Are among the 
choicest fruits for the table. They are generally 
wrapped in paper separately and boxed suitably for 
hotel buyers. Bisque of Apricots —Ice cream 
with chopped ripe apricots stirred in, the cream or 
custard previously flavored with the broken kernels 
and parings simmered in syrup. Apricot Ice 
Cream —Canned or stewed apricots mixed with 
cream or custard and frozen. Apricot Sherbet— 
Pulp of cooked apricots, about a pint to 2 quarts 
water and 2 pounds sugar, frozen, and whipped 
whites of 5 or 6 eggs beaten in. Apricots with 
Pice—I n all the same ways as apples. Apricot 
Shortcake —With fresh ripe fruit, same as apple, 
peach and strawberry shortcake. Apricot Roll— 
V ith fresh fruit or with jam, same as steamed or 
baked apple rolls. Petits Gateaux de Abricot— 
Made with apricot marmalade, same as apple turn¬ 
overs. Apricot Tart a la Metternich — An 
open pie of puff paste, quarters of apricots and 
pitted cherries laid in and sugared over, baked, and 
cream-flavored with the kernels poured on top when 
served. Apricot Tartlets —Small vol-au-vents 
of puff paste, as for apple tartlets; the inside lid 
large enough for half a preserved apricot, the lid 
not to be replaced, but decoration of red jelly placed 
around the fruit. Green Apricot Pie — The 
young and unripe fruit is considered to make choice 
tarts, puddings and pies; it is stewed in syrup until 
quite tender, then baked in a covered pie, or baked 
in puff paste without a top crust for a tart. Bava- 
Rois aux Abricots —Apricot marmalade mixed 
with an equal measure of cream whipped to froth 
and stiffened with gelatine, nearly an ounce to each 
quart; set in a mould, turned out, served with mara¬ 
schino cream. Abricot Puree — Stewed and 
strained apricots well sweetened, beaten light, 
mixed with whipped cream, served cold in custard 
cups with cake. Gateau de Mille Feuilles— 
Thousand leaf cake; a pile of thin, round pieces of 
puff paste, spread with two or three kinds of mar¬ 
malade and apricot marmalade on top, decorated 
with candied cherries. Gateau Genoise aux 
Abricots^— A pound jelly cake spread and covered 
with apricot marmalade and served with whipped 
cream. Tourte d’Abricots a l’Allemande— 
An open pie of puff paste, with halves of apricots 
and marmalade for failing. Apricot Flan —An 
open pie like the above, with custard poured on top 
of the fruit instead of marmalade, and baked in it. 
PouDiNG aux Abricots —Like apple cream, pie- 
stewed apricots mixed with rich custard and bread 
crumbs, baked in a crust. Apricot Fritters— 
Halves of apricots, either canned or fresh, drained, 
dipped in fritter batter, fried; served with wine 
sauce. Beignets d’Abricots a l’Eau de Vie— 
Rounds of bread dippped in brandy, joined to half 
an apricot dipped in batter and fried. Apricot 











240 


TIIE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


APP 

Omelet —Made same as apple omelet. Compote 
of Apricots a la Conde —Halves of apricots on a 
bed of cooked rice, the latter sweetened and fla¬ 
vored, red syrup or jelly for a finish. Apricot 
Wine —Made by boiling- apricots with sugar and 
water, fermenting same as appleade, but becomes a 
fine wine if carried through all the processes and 
kept a year. (See -wines). Croutes acx Abricots 
—Halves of preserved or compote apricots on fried 
slices of bread cut in shape; the syrup poured over. 
Pain d’Abricots —Marmalade stiffened with gela¬ 
tine, set in a border mould, turned out and the 
center filled with whipped cream. Dried Apricots 
—The best are bleached with sulphur fumes and 
then dried in the sun. 

AQUA PURA—Druggists’ latin for plain water. 

AQUA VITAS—Druggists’ latin for brandy. 

AQUA AMMONIA—Liquid ammonia; used for 
taking out paint and grease spots. 

AQUA FORTIS—Nitric acid; used for testing 
metal spoons, watches, plate. It eats into the base 
metals, but does not injure gold or silver. 

AQUARIUM—A tank to keep live fish in. In 
Canton and other Chinese cities, also in Moscow, 
Vienna and other places, the restaurateurs have 
these tanks so large and well-stocked as to excite 
remarks from every traveler. The intention is that 
the customer shall select his fish, have it caught in 
a dip net and cooked for him while he waits; much 
the same as our restaurants keep live quails in a 
show case. 

ARABIAN DISHES —See Oriental Cookery. 

ARDENNES SALAD—Shredded red cabbage 
steeped in salt and water, then drained and placed 
in the bowl, on top endive, sliced boiled potatoes, 
celery, mustard, vinegar, pepper, and over all is 
poured the hot fat and gravy from a pan of fried 
ham. 

ARLEQUIN ICES—French spelling of Harle¬ 
quin; ices of several colors mixed, like a harlequin’s 
dress, such as a brick of ice cream made of 3 or 4 
layers. 

ARLES SAUSAGES—A kind formerly in fash¬ 
ionable repute; not very different from the now 
well-known Frankfurt; named for the town where 
made. 

ARMENIAN CABBAGE A LA MODE—A 
cabbage boiled about half done, taken up and 
minced meat of any kind, well seasoned with pep¬ 
per and onions, introduced between the leaves, 
which are then tied around with twine; the stuffed 
cabbage is then fried in butter, gravy made in the 
pan and cabbage allowed to stew in ic. 

AROMATS, AROMATICS—Words often used 
in cookery recipes to avoid repeated enumeration. 
They signify the roots, herbs and apices commonly 
used for seasoning or flavoring savory dishes, such 


ART 

as shallots or onions, garlic, sage, bay leaves, 
thyme, celery, mace, cloves, etc. 

AROMATIC SALT—Also called spiced salt. It 
is fine salt having the powdered herbs and spices 
mixed with it, which are used by cooks, and saves 
the trouble of getting each one of the ingredients 
together as often as the}' are needed. Spiced salt 
contains pepper, mace, bay leaf, rosemary, sage, 
thyme, celery seed, and perhaps other ingredients, 
for cooks of different nationalities have various pre¬ 
ferences in that respect. 

ARROWROOT—A pudding material like corn 
starch, but has a more delicate flavor of its own. 
Being a product of the West India islands, the 
powers owning them have done much to stimulate 
the trade in arrowroot from commercial motives, 
and numerous recipes may be found in which ar¬ 
rowroot is an ingredient, but corn starch takes its 
place most completely, whether for puddings, cus¬ 
tards, blanc mange, cakes, crackers, etc., and being 
cheaper crowds it out of the market. In making 
puddings, about one-third more of arrowroot is re¬ 
quired to a certain measure of liquid than of starch, 
and the price of arrowroot is much higher. It re¬ 
mains the best material, however, for thickening 
milk for ice cream, and is much used as a diet for 
invalids. The name is in reference to arrowroot 
being obtained from the root of the manioc, which 
yields at the same time a poisonous sap into which 
the native Indians dipped the points of their arrows. 
This all washes out in water, while the pure arrow- 
root sinks as sediment and is afterwards dried and 
powdered; 

ARTESIAN WELLS—Holes are bored or drilled 
to any depth by either of two methods: A drill 
with a wedge-shaped steel point is raised and let 
fall by steam power, its own weight driving it down 
while it is turned part way round at each drop to 
make the bore round. At intervals of a few hours 
an iron tube is let down to draw up the mud and 
water. By the other method the drill is a short tube 
with rough diamonds set in the lower edge, which 
cut down into the rock while the drill is revolved 
by the machinery. This drill brings up a core from 
the strata penetrated, and is most used for prospect¬ 
ing. The largest bore so far has been 12 inches 
in diameter and deepest about 3,000 feet. In low 
lands water is often obtained that gushes up with 
great force several feet above the surface; these are 
called flowing wells. In most large or medium- 
sized cities parties can be found who take contracts 
for sinking wells where wanted. Artesian wells 
get their name from Artesium, the ancient name of 
Artois in France, where these methods began to be 
used about 150 years ago. 

ARTICHOKE—There are two different vege¬ 
tables called artichokes, and neither of them being 
in general use with us there is a good deal of mys¬ 
tification about the directions given for using them. 
One, the artichoke straight, is a sort of thistle, the 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


241 


ART 

green immature flower, with a little eatable material 
about the base; the other, the Jerusalem artichoke, 
is the root of a small sort of sunflower; it is like a 
misshapen potato. The directions given for cook¬ 
ing one look foolish when applied to the other. 
There are so many better vegetables that neither 
kind of artichoke is much thought of; the Jerusalem 
artichoke had its day before the potato came into 
general use. It is claimed now that it contains 
more nutriment than the potato, will grow any¬ 
where and can remain in the ground all winter 
without injury. This root artichoke grows wild in 
the western prairie states. How the two dissimilar 
vegetables came to be called by the same name no¬ 
body now knows, but the term Jerusalem does not 
mean what it purports to; it is a corruption of giro- 
sola — an Italian word meaning sunflower. Still 
this mistaken name has led to a soup made of a 
puree of Jerusalem artichokes—like potato soup — 
being known everywhere as Palestine soup, in 
reference to Jerusalem city being in Palestine. 



This, the thistle or globe-artichoke, is cultivated 
extensively for market over the water and to a small 
extent in the United States. It is also dried and ex¬ 
ported. When to be cooked, the dried artichoke is 
steeped in water. It is the white part that is eatable; 
the center, called the choke, is cut out when the 
vegetable is half cooked, when it can be removed 
'easily. Stuffed Artichokes — The leaves and 
bottoms pared off, choke removed, cavity filled with 
stuffing, baked, served with a sauce or as a garnish 
to a dish of meat. Artichokes a la Barigoule— 
The cavity filled with a fine herbs mince of mush¬ 
rooms, parsley, shallots and minced pork in espa- 
gnole thickened, baked with a slice of pork over each 
stuffed artichoke, served without the pork, sauce 


ASP 

over. Artichokes a la Uyonnaise —Trimmed 
and pared down to the fleshy part, cut in quarters, 
cored, parboiled, simmered tender in seasoned broth; 
served with onion sauce, brown. Artichokes au 
Naturel—A Parisian authority contends that the 
only way to serve artichokes well is to steep them 
in cold water 2 hours, boil 1 hour, eat by pulling off 
each leaf with the fingers and dipping the eatable 
base in melted butter. Artichauts a la Gouffe— 
Fried in batter, same as egg plant. Artichauts 
Farcies a lTtalienne — Parboiled, insides re¬ 
moved, stuffed with bread, onion and grated cheese, 
cooked in little stock in a covered pan, served with 
brown Italian’sauce. Artichauts a l’Italienne— 
Quartered, cooked in wine and stock, served with 
white Italian sauce. Artichoke Salad —(/)-The 
bottoms chopped small, mixed with heart lettuce also 
chopped; seasoned with oil vinegar, pepper and salt. 
(a)-Artichokes previously pared and quartered and 
steeped in water, containing lemon juice, are eaten 
as salad alone, with the usual seasonings. Arti¬ 
chauts a la Hollandaise —Plain boiled and 
served with Hollandaise sauce to dip in. Arti¬ 
chauts a la Bonne Femme —The same served 
with white sauce. Artichauts a L’EssENpE de 
Jambon —Stuffed, braised and served, covered with 
a puree of ham. Italian Gobbo —The growing 
leaves of the globe artichoke are doubled back, tied 
and covered with earth and white lumps form on 
the stalks, which are called gobbo ; this species of 
salad is eaten raw with salt. Artichoke, Jeru¬ 
salem —The French name for it is Topinamb: ur, 
the old name of potatoes. This tuber is apt 
to turn dark in cooking as salsify does. To 
prevent that it is thrown into water contain¬ 
ing vinegar as soon as pared, and not allowed 
to remain on the fire after it is done. A very gen¬ 
eral use of it in the southern states where the plant 
may be found growing in garden corners without 
attention is as a pickle; it is put up the same way as 
cucumbers, only scalded, not cooked soft. Topin- 
ambours a lTtalienne —Cut in shapes, stewed in 
stock, served with sauce. Topinambours au 
Gratin —Jerusalem artichokes boiled, mashed and 
baked with grated cheese on top. Topinambours 
a la Slyer —Shaped like pears, boiled in water 
with onions, butter and salt; served with butter 
sauce poured over. Artichoke Fritters —Same 
way as parsnip or salsify fritters, by mashing, mix¬ 
ing with egg and dropping spoonfuls in hot lard. 
Fried Artichokes —Done same way as fried egg 
plant. Artichoke Soup (“Palestine .Soup”)— 
Made with 12 ounces Jerusalem artichokes to each 
quart of chicken stock; turnips, celery and leeks 
added; all vegetables passed through a seive, and 
cream and yolk of eggs added—it is a cream puree 
of artichokes. 

ASPARAGUS—Is eaten with the fingers when 
cooked, whether hot or cold; for this reason aspar¬ 
agus on toast is dished with the heads only in the 
butter or sauce, the toast holding up the white ends 













242 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ASP 

dry. The largest on record were a hundred heads 
grown at Mortlake-on-the-Thames which weighed 
42 pounds, the bunch. Another hundred presented 
to George II in 1737 weighed 2S pounds. A tall 
story has recently been in print of a traveler having 
discovered a giant species of asparagus 12 inches 
thick, growing wild in Russian Asia, of which one 
head was enough for a party of six. The larger the 
head the poorer the flavor, however, and the me¬ 
dium-sized green tinted is the best eating. It might 
be grown in the garden of almost every hotel, as it 
only needs planting once to come up in the same 
spot for years. The shoots which escape cutting 
grow to a beautiful plant with feathery foliage and 
bright red berries, making a fine decorative plant 
for ball rooms, banquet rooms, etc. Asparagus 
possesses medicinal qualities similar to the water of 
sulphur springs, which causes it to be adopted as a 
diet in the canned state when it cannot be obtained 
green. Asparagus en Branche —Is plain boiled 
and served in bunches, full length. Asparagus 
Peas —Are the pointes d’asperges , the green heads 
cut small and served in soups and sauces. Con¬ 
somme aux Pointes d’Asperges et G£ufs 
Poches —Is clear soup with asparagus heads and 
poached eggs, same as a /’ Imperatrice. Consomme 
Printan ere always has asparagus heads. Aspar¬ 
agus Soup, Puree of Asparagus, Cream of 
Asparagus are three kinds in which this vegetable 
is the principal ingredient. Asparagus a la 
Creme —The green heads, boiled, in Bechamel 
sauce. Asparagus en Hollandaise— Served on 
toast with that sauce poured over the heads, instead 
of an beurre, with bulter, or an jus, with gravy. 
Asparagus en Mayonaise— 'The heads cooked, 
cut small, seasoned, and served cold as a salad with 
dressing. Iced Asparagus —The heads dressed in 
oil and vinegar, and frozen. Asparagus Omelet 
—The green heads cooked and drained, mixed in an 
omelet. Stewed Asparagus Heads —The heads 
partly fried {saute) in bacon fat, with chopped pars¬ 
ley, chervil salt, pepper, and slight grating of nut¬ 
meg, stock and gravy added, simmered, skimmed, 
served on toast. Chopped Asparagus a la Pom¬ 
padour— Boiled green in salted water, the heads 
cut off, of good length, placed on hot cloth near the 
fire. Some hollandaise of butter yolks, salt, pepper, 
little vinegar, cooked in a pan in boiling water till 
just thickened, and poured over asparagus. As¬ 
paragus with Cream —The heads cut small, 
blanched in boiling water for 3 minutes, simmered 
in a saucepan with butter, lump of sugar, an onion, 
very little water; onion removed, cream added and 
thickened slightly; served on toast. Asparagus 
with Eggs —Cold, served en branche or full length, 
with olive oil and quarters of hard-boiled eggs. 
Asparagus Stuffing— Chickens and pigeons are 
filled with asparagus heads, seasoned, sewed up 
and roasted over toasted bread. Asparagus to 
Boil —The stalks, after being scraped and washed, 
gre tied in bunches and the butt ends cut off even, 


ASP 

to make them of one length. The water has salt in 
it and a pinch of soda, and should be boiling when 
the bunches are dropped in. The soda preserves 
the green color if the lid is kept off the saucepan. 
Takes about 20 minutes to cook. The very slender 
and green stalks of asparagus are called sprue and 
cooked like greens. Dried Asparagus —Soyer 
tells us that the Romans dried asparagus for use 
in winter and restored it by soaking in water. 
Canned Asparagus —Is good except in the one re¬ 
spect of the heads being generally broken. It 
should not be taken out of the cans to cook, but the 
cans opened at the butt, as shown by the label, set 
on the range and the stalks served from the can. 
Asparagus Cream a la Noel—A French restau¬ 
rant specialty; an entree formed in a mould and 
turned out; made of asparagus and breast of chicken 
in equal parts, chicken pounded and forced through 
a seive and mixed with little veloute, asparagus 
divided into green puree and white puree. Half 
the chicken paste mixed with the green, other with 
the white; green in buttered mould first, white to 
fill. Steamed an hour without letting it reach boil¬ 
ing heat; turned out and bordered with green as¬ 
paragus prepared separately. The special mould 
is in shape of a fine bunch of asparagns. 

ASPIC JELLY—Is meat jelly, such as is obtained 
by boiling calves’ feet or shanks or chickens down 
to jelly, but to make it handsome, for ornamental 
purposes, it is clarified with white of eggs and 
strained through flannel, and, to save labor, it is 
oftenest made of gelatine added to clear soup. If 
the soup is already rich and strong, 1 ounces 
gelatine to each quart makes a jelly firm enough to 
be handled and stamped into ornamental shapes. It 
is necessary for the aspic jelly to contain white 
wine and lemon juice as two of the ingredients, but 
the remaining flavorings may be according to the 
cook’s taste and judgment, the intention being to 
provide a jelly of a spicy taste—tasting like a savory 
game pie or any meat pie, or like head cheese, but 
clear as glass and finely colored with burnt sugar 
or with saffron or cochineal. When made it is kept 
in a jar on ice till wanted, or in thin sheets or dishes 
to be cut in fancy shapes. 

ASPIC MAYONNAISE —Is aspic jelly and 
mayonnaise mixed togehter, forming a shining 
yellow jelly, not transparent. Is also made by stir¬ 
ring mustard, etc., into aspic. 

ASPICS—Dishes of all savory sorts that are put 
together with aspic jelly or aspic mayonnaise, such 
as pieces of fish placed in order in a mould and fast¬ 
ened there with aspic jelly, the mould being set on 
ice and the interior filled with something solidified 
by having melted jelly mixed in, or chicken, shrimps 
or lobstei on a flat dish with aspic cooled upon or 

around them. Aspic os Soles or Other Fish_ 

Fillets of solos rolled up cone-shape arc steamed, 
half of them placed point downwards in a mould, 
melted pale aspic jelly poured in to just cover; set in. 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


243 


ASS 

ice to become firm. Some jelly colored green poured 
into the next tier of fillets point upwards on top of 
the former when set solid. Yolks of hart^-boiled 
eggs rubbed through a seive, mixed in more jelly to 
fill up mould when again set. Turned out on a lace 
paper covered dish; highly ornamented. Aspic of 
Fillets of Trout —A dozen fillets of fish with 
butter and seasonings lightly baked in a covered 
pan and then cooled with a light weight upon 
them to flatten. When cold, cut out rounds about 
size of silver dollar are placed in order in a mould 
lined with a coating of aspic by turning it about 
on ice and parsley, eggs, anchovies in strips, 
and capers added in ornamental patterns, the inside 
filled with more fillets mixed with mayonnaise jelly. 
Aspics of poultry livers, ox-palates, quenelles, fillets 
of game, chicken, turtle fins, plovers’ eggs and al¬ 
most anything can be made either in moulds or in 
flat dishes surrounded with a green salad, or in a 
border mould, the center to be filled with a salad 
after it is turned out. Aspic a la Czarina (Club 
specialty)—The meat of 3 grouse pounded in a mor¬ 
tar, seasoned, passed through seive, mixed with a 
pint of whipped cream, little aspic and chaudfroid 
sauce. Set in a square shallow mould on ice. 
Turned out, dressed with brown chaudfroid sauce, 
decorated with truffles and aspic on a stand of rice, 
and surrounded with green salad. 

ASSAFCETIDA—A mal-odorous gum which has 
the taste and smell of garlic intensified. It is ob¬ 
tained from a shrub. Is used in small quantities to 
impart the garlic flavor to some bottled table sauces. 
Among the accounts of ancient banquets we find 
mention of kid dressed with assafcetida, and it has 
been used as a seasoning in later times. One present 
use of it is to carry about the person as a protection 
against contagious diseases, such as yellow fever 
It is reputed to have virtues in that respect similar 
to camphor. 

ASSES’ FLESH—The market statistics show 
that 500 asses and mules were slaughtered and sold 
in Paris last year, as well as 1,800 horses, for meat. 
The asses’ flesh sold at 2 cents a pound higher than 
horse-flesh. 

ASSES’ MILK—Has had a run at various times 
as a health food for children and consumptives. 
There used to be milk-stands in the London parks 
where the donkeys, sleek, curried and beautifully 
kept, were milked to order for children and other 
customers as they came. 

ASSIETTE (Fr.)—Dinner-plate. 

ATELETS OR HATELETS—Skewers, some of 
silver with ornamental heads are for decorating 
cold dishes, others for cooking “kebobs” on or any 
meats a la brochette. 

ATTELET (Fr.)—Bleak, a small fish. 

ATTEREAU DE ROGNONS—Brochette or 
skewer of chicken kidneys, a French restaurant 
specialty. Cook some “rognons de coq” in white 


BAC 

stock, allow them to cool in their liquor; drain; run 
on silver skewers with cockscombs between. Cover 
with chaudfroid sauce, then with beaten egg, bread 
crumb them and fry. Served on the skewers, gar¬ 
nished. 

ATTEREAUX (Fr.)—The ornaments cut out of 
firm aspic jelly for bordering dishes. 

AU, AUX—To or with; as beef au celeri or aux 
oignons (onions); au is used when the accompanying 
article is but one thing, and aux when it is many. 
Au Gratin —With a brown or toasted surface. Au 
Jus—With gravy. Au Jambon —With ham. Aux 
Champignons —With button mushrooms. 

AUBERGE (Fr.)—An inn. 

AUBERGINE—The egg-plant. 

AURELIAN CAKE—A rice sponge cake, of 
pound ground rice, %. pound sugar, 12 eggs with 3 
of the whites left out, brandy and flavoring. Made 
like sponge cake. 

AURORA SOUP— Potage a l'Aurore , or soup 
blushing like the morning; the fanciful name given 
by a cook to a soup made orange-colored, with a 
puree of carrots and further thickened with yolks of 
eggs. 

AURORA SAUCE — Lobster butter made by 
pounding lobster coral (the egg) and butter together, 
mixed in white sauce. It is pink, and when lobster 
coral cannot be obtained is colored to imitate it. 
Lemon juice, salt and cayenne required in the sauce. 
Served with fish. 

A VEN A—Latin name of oats. Rolled Avena— 
Crushed oats or oatmeal. 

B. 

BABA—Polish cake in common use; a yeast- 
raised, white sort of fruit cake, made of sugar, but¬ 
ter and eggs, few raisins and almonds mixed with a 
piece of light dough about equal in weight to all of 
them, thoroughly beaten; let rise in moulds, and 
baked. Baba au Rhum —The baba cake served 
as pudding with hot syrup, containing rum, poured 
over it. 

BACON—Needs to be timed in boiling to % hour 
for each pound. Bacon, Broiled —Thin slices 
broiled to a crisp over a charcoal fire. Bacon with 
Eggs— The bacon on the dish first, and fried eggs 
on top. Bacon Omelet —Lean bacon minced very 
fine and lightly fried, the fat poured into another 
pan, and omelet poured into that, cooked bacon 
strewed all over the surface; when soft cooked, 
rolled up, garnished with parsley in the dish. 
Stuffed Bacon —Cut thin, but slices left in pairs, 
not quite separated; stuffed with mashed potatoes 
and rolled in cracker dust or crumbs; fried. Bacon 
and Spinach —Slices of boiled bacon laid upon a 
bed of seasoned spinach. Bacon and Fish —Broiled 
or fried bacon is the best accompaniment to fried or 
broiled trout, bass or other fresh-water fish. Bacon 







244 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


BAC 

and Beefsteak— Broiled steak, with a slice or two 
of broiled bacon on top, is esteemed a luxury. 
Bacon and Cabbage —Boiled together and slices of 
bacon served with cabbage. Bacon and Green 
Beans —In some parts of the states string or snap 
beans will hardly be eaten without bacon; it is boiled 
along with them, and small pieces cut and served in 
each dish sent in. Bacon and White Beans —The 
French cooks think it all right to boil navy beans 
plain and serve them with a slice of bacon on each 
order—it is their substitute for baked pork and 
beans, which they seldom cook. Bacon with 
Chicken —Boiled chicken and turkey go well with 
boiled bacon, but the unsmoked or very light smoked 
is required—the “ bulk meat ” or salt pork. Bacon 
in Canvas— Is too dear for constant use, the weight 
of the wrappings having to be paid for, and the qual¬ 
ity of bacon is hidden; thin and unserviceable pieces 
that trim half away are covered up in canvas, of 
which the only use is to keep insects out of the meat 
for those who keep it in stock. The most profitable 
to buy is bacon by the box of 50 to 100 pounds, well 
smoked, free from boneand not canvassed. The re¬ 
moval of the bones from the rib sides will be found 
to cause much waste of the meat at the same cutting 
unless use can be found for such outside cuts. 
Bacon and Sauerkraut —Should go together. 

BACKBONE — Chine of pork; the American 
bacon maker’s cut, being the entire backbone of the 
hog from the ears to the tail, the latter included. 
Backbone Stew —Country luxury; the backbone 
chopped in convenient pieces, stewed with an onion, 
potatoes, pinch of sage, salt, pepper, and flour to 
thicken. Backbone Pot Pie —The stew in a wide 
pan, spoonfuls of biscuit dough dropped in. Back¬ 
bone Pie —The stew in a baking pan,' covered with 
sheet of paste, and baked. Baked Backbone— 
Chopped in convenient pieces, salt, pepper and 
sprinkling of sage; baked brown. The bones being 
exceedingly abundant in packing house localities 
make a glut of pork food at certain seasons like the 
gluts of fish in other places. Stuffed chine, broiled 
bones with fried apples and apple sauce, bones with 
Robert sauce, bones with onions, and in many of the 
ways of regular pork cooking are then equally in 
vogue. 

BADGER—Like a small bear; eaten by hunters 
and trappers; tastes like wild boar. 

BAG PUDDINGS—The kind of puddings named 
in the poem: “A bag pudding this king did make, 
And stuffed it well with plums, And in he put great 
lumps of fat As big as my two thumbs.” Christmas 
plum or egg batter or other kinds tied up in a'bag 
and boiled. 

BAGRATION (a la) —A few preparations bear¬ 
ing this designation, perhaps half a dozen, one-half 
of them being soups, were so named by CarSme in 
compliment to a countess of Bagration of his time. 
They are all combinations of fish and vegetables. 

BAHAMA SAUCE—A fish sauce composed of 


BAK 

the liquor in which a fish is simmered with Bermuda 
onion, Bahama chillies, wine, broth, parsley, etc. 

BASV-MAR 1 E—A double kettle of any kind, the 
inner vessel surrovgided by water, like a farina-kettle 
or glue-pot. 

BAKING POWDER-Cream of tartar, 30 oz.; 
bicarbonate of soda, 15 oz.; flour, 5 oz.; mixed. 
“ I chanced to pick up as my dinner companion one 
of the officers of a leading baking-powder company. 
Probably others will be surprised as was the lounger 
to learn that their sales of the single article of bak- 
ing powder reach $3,500,000 or more. At 35 cents 
per pound this represents the distribution of 10,000,- 
000 pounds of powder. I managed to worm out of 
my friend that the company has a capital of $160,000. 
Then I commenced to do a little figuring on my own 
account. I happened to have in my note-book the 
formula for a baking powder, viz.: 100 lbs. cream 
tartar, 38 lbs. bicarbonate of soda, 7 lbs. tartaric acid, 
and 20 lbs. rice flour. Taking the latest current 
quotations of these articles I figured out the cost 
of a batch of baking powder, and, with that as 
a basis, we came to the conclusion that the company 
must divide up somewhere from $600,000 to $Soo,ooo 
a year. We no longer wonder why the stockholders 
build rows of brown-stone fronts in Brooklyn. I 
then wheeled around and asked my companion the 
secret of the success of his company against many 
rivals, when he replied: ‘There are just two things 
about it. First, we resolved to make the best baking 
powder that could be made, and, second, to let the 
people know it.’ We imagine that is the reason 
why they advertise in over 5,000 different newspapers 
and compel the grocers to keep their baking powder 
in stock, whether they want to or not.” 

BAKING POWDER BRIOCHES—Sweet buns 
raised with powder instead of the customary yeast; 
the bun is dipped iVi a wine-flavored syrup after 
baking. 

BAKED BEANS—White haricot or navy beans, 
steeped in water for several hours, are then baked 
in a stone jar with salt, piece of salt pork and small 
quantity of molasses; allowed to remain in the oven 
8 or 10 hours. Cooked in that way the dish is called 
Boston baked beans to distinguish from another 
way of cooking rapidly by boiling with soda in the 
water, then seasoning and baking in a pan. 

BAKEWELL PUDDING — The Derbyshire 
(Eng.) specialty, from the ducal residence of Chats- 
worth, famed for having the highest fountain jet in 
the world. The pudding is an open deep pie, made 
by spreading a layer of preserves on the bottom 
crust of puff paste; apricot, peach or cherry pre¬ 
serves are suitable; adding thin strips of candied 
orange peel or citron, then making a rich “trans¬ 
parent pie” mixture of butter, sugar, 6 jz. of each, 
4 eggs, lemon-flavored brandy, and 2 oz. flour, 
spreading on top of the preserves and baking very 
carefully, for it is easy to burn on top. 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


245- 


BAL 

BALL SUPPERS—Ball suppers were most un¬ 
satisfactory affairs until Ude, the French chef, hit 
upon a plan of serving a supper which should at 
once satisfy the guest by the excellence of the re¬ 
past and the novelty of the arrangement, and the 
host by the smallness of the expense. This plan is 
to ornament the sideboard with a basket of fruit, 
instead of insignificant pieces of pastry. Place in 
their stead things that cm be eaten—such as 
jelly, plates of mixed pastry, and sandwiches of a 
superior kind, but not in too great profusion. Affix 
a label to each plate, indicating its contents, and 
you will find this arrangement will give the guests 
an opportunity of taking refreshments without be¬ 
ing obliged to seat themselves at a table from which 
the ladies cannot rise without disordering their 
dresses, which to them is a matter of far greater 
moment than the best ball supper in the world. 

BALL STAND-UP SUPPER — Humorously 
described by Theodore Hook as “tables against the 
wall, covered with cold negus and warm ice; where 
men, women and children take perpendicular re¬ 
freshments, like so many horses with their noses in 
the manger.” 

BALL SUPPER WASTE—The waste of ball 
suppers of old Avas almost incredible. Ude states 
that he has known balls Avhere the next day, in spite 
of the pillage of a pack of footmen, he has seen 20 
or 30 hams, 150 or 200 carved fowls, and 40 or 50 
tongues gh r en away; jellies melted on the tables; 
pastry, pates, pies and lobster salads, all heaped up 
in the kitchen and strewed about the passages, 
completely disfigured by the manner in which it 
Avas necessary to take them from the dishes in Avhich 
they had been served. 

BALLOTINES —Ballotines are small galantines 
made by treating small birds as directed, only that 
the force-meat should have a larger proportion of 
truffles, and be made of the same kind of bird; for 
instance, grouse Avould have a rich force-meat of 
grouse. One grouse, hoAvever, Avould make two 
or four ballotines; quails make tAvo, to be served as 
individuals. (See galantines.) 

BANANA —Fruit of tropical and semi-tropical 
countries and is the principal food of natives of 
some West India islands. Exaggerated statements 
of the amount of nutriment contained in bananas 
have been circulated, shown to be fallacious by dry¬ 
ing the fruit, Avhich parts Avith y x of its Aveight as 
Avater. Remainder is like SAveet dried pumpkin. 
Candied Bananas—D ried bananas crystallized in 
sugar before quite dried out. Baked Bananas— 
Breakfast dish; split, laid in pan with butter and 
sugar over, baked to a state like candy. Fried 
Bananas— Either Avhole or cut across, dipped in 
syrup, then rolled in flour and dropped into hot oil 
or lard till crisp outside. Banana Fritters—C ut 
in tAvo across, steeped in rum or any liquor or Avine 
and sugar; drained, dipped in fritter batter and 
fried; rolled in poAvdered sugar or served Avith a 


BAR 

sauce. Banana Pie or Podding—M ashed, mixed 
Avith sugar, lemon juice, butter and eggs, and baked 
in a dish Avith bottom crust of paste. Banana 
Coa'ERED Pie— Sliced, sprinkled AA'ith lemon juice, 
sugar, bits of butter, moistened with Avine or 
brandy, baked Avith bottom and top crust. Banana 
Ice Cream—Tavo bananas, pulped, to each quart 
of cream. Banana Candies—F lavored Avith ex¬ 
tract; also, in imitation of peeled bananas. Banana 
Cake—Tavo sheets of cake, sliced bananas dipped 
in SAveet Avine laid between; banana-flavored yellow 
icing on top. Bananas for the Table—A mong 
the very best of fruit. They have the ends cut off, 
are Aviped Avith a cloth and placed on stands in their 
skins. Banana Ambrosia—C ut up with oranges, 
cocoanut, wine and sugar. Banana Fritters (2) 
—Mashed bananas lbs., flour lb., sugar 2 oz., 
lard 2 oz., and 1 or 2 eggs. Dropped by spoofuls in 
hot lard. Bananas baked are served up Avith baked 
monkey in Brazil, like our oppossum Avith SAveet 
potatoes. 

BANBURY CAKES—A popular kind of turn¬ 
over or puff, having a mince mixture inside of a 
fold of puff short-paste. The mince is variously 
compounded, either Avith crumbled slices of cake r 
chopped apples jam, candied peel, and spice, or 
Avith butter and sugar stirred together, and raisins,, 
currants and peel added. Paste rolled thin, is cut 
out Avith an oval cutter haA'ing scalloped edges,, 
mince placed in the middle, edges Avetted; another 
paste on top, egged, top dipped in sugar and baked.. 

BANNOCKS—Scottish; Cakes made of barley 
or oatmeal, baked on an iron plate or girdle or 
griddle. 

BARM—Scotch bakers’ name for liquid yeast as 
made by them. The ordinary “ferment.” 

BARATARIA SHRIMPS—The name now so 
Avidely diffused as a brand of canned shrimps, has 
reference to Barataria Bay in southern Louisiana, 
once the rendezvous of the pirate Lafitte; locally 
famous also for its large oysters. 

BARMECIDE FEAST—A great array of dishes, 
but little or nothing on them. There is a story in 
the Arabian Nights of a prince of the Barmecides 
family Avho invited a number of people, his depend¬ 
ents, to dinner. The table Avas set, each dish hav- 
ing a cover over it, according to the old fashion. 
When the signal was given the covers Avere raised 
and shoAved the dishes absolutely empty. Never¬ 
theless, the host went through the motions of help¬ 
ing himself out of the various dishes and pretend¬ 
ing to eat and get filled up, and the guests, being 
his dependents and afraid of him, had to do the 
same and pretended to haA-e had a good dinner, 
though they had not had a mouthful. The Barme¬ 
cide prince had some motive in this Avhich the story 
tells, and from this story comes the allusions to 
Barmecides and their banquets. 

BARBUE (Fr.)-Brill, a fish. 

BARTAVELLE—Barnade bird; Scotch goose. 







246 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


BAS 

BARLEY—For cooking purposes is of two kinds 
or more: Scotch and pearl barley; the latter is larger 
grain and whiter; either kind answers for cooking; 
both are cheap, costing less than rice and swelling 
to a great bulk in boiling water. Barley Broth— 
Mutton, barley, turnips, onions, or leeks, and water; 
not thickened otherwise than with the barley. 
Barley Soup —Meat stock and various vegetables 
cut small, some barley well boiled separately and 
added along with flour thickening. Cream of 
Barley —A rich white soup of chicken or veal, or 
other white stock, with celery and mixed vegetables; 
barley rubbed through a strainer, cream or milk and 
little bntter and parsley. Barley Water —Gruel 
for the sick, made by boiling barley in two waters 
and straining off. Barley Puddings— (/)-Boiled 
barley with butter and a custard mixture of eggs and 
milk; baked. (2)-Boiled barley stirred up with mol¬ 
asses and suet; baked. Barley Bread —Made of 
a mixture of barley meal with flour. Scarcely known 
in this country, but used in lands where there is no 
cornmeal. Barley Bannocks —Flat cakes of bar¬ 
ley meal baked on a griddle; very thin. 

BARLEY SUGAR—Old-fashioned sort of clear 
stick candy. No particular reason for the name, 
but taste resembling barley malt. 

BARNACLES—A shell fish; like a mussel, but 
only about an inch in length; said to be eaten by 
the Chinese, Japanese, and others. Barnacles at¬ 
tach themselves to floating logs and wooden piles, 
and to the bottom of vessels. 

BARSZEZ—Polish beet soup. On the occasion 
of a banquet given by Prince Czartoryski in Paris, 
this soup figured on the menu, the recipe having 
been sent from Cracow for the purpose. It was 
made by filling a good sized jar with slices of raw 
beets cut small, covering with water and placing a 
slice of bread on top. Covered and let ferment, 
which takes from 3 to 5 days. Skimmed and the 
juice passed through a seive, then boiled with an 
equal proportion of strong beef stock, to which was 
added small pieces of ham. The soup went to table 
looking clear and red. 

BARBECUE—See description at page 164. 

BARBEL—A fish of “ the other side;” not very 
highly valued. It is generally broiled. 

BARBEAU or BARBILLON (Fr.)—Barbel. 

BARBE DE CAPUCIN (Fr.)—Monk’s beard; 
name of a salad herb; chicory. 

BARDS (Fr.)—Slices of pork or bacon, which 
are laid upon the breasts of grouse, etc., and 
wrapped around small birds before cooking. 

BARDES (Fr.)—Barded or covered with slices 
of fat bacon. 

BASIL—One of the standard “pot herbs;” it is 
thought to be specially suitable for turtle soup; can 
be grown in any kitchen garden like thyme, marjo¬ 
ram, etc., and can be bought, dried and powdered, 
in cans. 


BAS 

BAR (Fr.)—Bass. Basse also. 

BASSE RAYEE (Fr.)—Striped bass. 

BASS-—There are half a dozen or more kinds: 
Black bass, northern; black bass, southern; striped 
bass, rock bass, channel bass, sea bass or red fish; 
all regarded first-class for the table and for sport. 
The southern black bass is a coarser looking fish 
than that of the North; its scales are larger and it 
is not so finely marked as its northern brother, nei¬ 
ther is its flesh so firm and hard; but the meat is 
very sweet and it does not have the strong grassy 
taste that some of those found in western waters 
have. It is the best fresh-water fish found in the 
South, notwithstanding it seems to be one-third 
head—it is the large-mouthed variety. Northern 
bass have the quality of keeping fresh longer than 
other fish, and are safe kinds to buy and satisfactory 
to serve, especially in restaurants where one or two 
pound sizes are in demand. Broiled Bass with 
Bacon —A favorite way of calling for bass. The 
fish scored deeply on each side and broiled whole; 
crisp-broiled bacon served on top of the fish and cut 
lemons the only sauce.. Broiled Bass —Split, 
dipped in flour, broiled, basted with butter brush, 
served with maitre d’hotel butter. Bass *a la 
Maitre d’Hotel —Broiled whole, butter worked 
up with parsley and lemon juice spread over the 
fish. Bass Stewed— In shallow saucepan whole, 
with onions, can tomatoes, little wine, espagnole 
sauce, salt, pepper, parsley, stewed 40 minutes. 
Sauce reduced and strained over. Bass a l’Etuvee 
—Stewed bass. Cut up, white butter sauce mixed 
with onions made and fish stewed in it; claret, nut¬ 
meg, parsley, sauce and croutons. Bass in Mate¬ 
lote— Matelote is a fish stew. This has cut-up fish 
cooked in red wine stock, dipped out, sauce strained 
and thickened, glazed small onions and mushrooms 
added. Stuffed Black Bass, Crayfish Sauce— 
Fish opened, stuffed, tied together, simmered in 
wine stock in covered boiler. Gravy thickened 
with flour and egg yolks and made pink with lob¬ 
ster or crayfish butter; crayfish tails garnish. 
Striped Bass a la Conte —Whole, baked in oven 
with oiled paper over and wine and broth in the 
pan, oil, salt, pepper, shallots, parslejq sauce thick¬ 
ened, espagnole added, strained over. Fillets of 
Striped Bass a la Bordelaise —Each fillet cut in 
two, being 4 from each fish, steeped in oil and lemon 
juice, drained and dusted with flour; dipped in egg 
yolk mixed with warm butter and in bread crumbs, 
and broiled. Sauce made of heads or bones boiled 
down and tomato sauce added. Fillets of Bass 
a la Manhattan —The flesh of the fish chopped 
fine, made into flat croquettes and fried. Dished in 
cirle,. tomato sauce in center. Fillets of Bass en 
Papilotte —Small pieces well shaped partly fried 
in butter; taken out, and thick pasty sauce made in 
same butter of onions, mushrooms, wine, thick 
veloute, parsley, yolks, poured over the fillets and 
cooled. Each fillet on a sheet buttered note paper 
with the sauce covering, paper doubled over and 





T1IE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


247 


BEA 

edges pinched, baked brown; fine herb sauce. Bar 
a l’Eau de Sel —Plain boiled in salt water. Bar 
Sauce au Beurre —Broiled and served with butter 
sauce. 

BAT—There is a kind called the edible bat; body 
about io inches long, flesh white, tender, delicate; 
eaten in the East Indies. 

BATRACIAN—Scientific name of the frog, and 
used frequently as a synonym. 

BATTER — Thin mixture of flour with some 
liquid; generally, to “make a batter ” means flour 
and water mixed smooth, then eggs, melted butter, 
salt, sugar, etc., added. Fritter Batter —Is thick 
enough to coat over whatever is dipped in it. Pan¬ 
cake Batter —Is about as thin as cream. 

BATTER PUDDINGS—About 5 oz. flour to 
each quart of milk, 2 eggs, spoonful melted lard or 
butter and same of sugar makes a batter like thin 
eream which sets solid when baked. Batter Pud¬ 
ding with Apples —Baked apples in quarters in a 
pan, batter poured over and baked again. Batter 
Pudding with Raisins —Same way without pre¬ 
vious cooking of fruit. All baiter puddings have 
to be shallow in the pan. 

BAVARIAN CREAM—A more elaborate kind 
of blanc-mange, made of whipped cream with ]/ 2 
oz. gelatine, dissolved, to each quart; variously 
flavored and combined. {See Bavarois.) 

BAVAROIS (Fr.)—Bavarian cream. Bavarois 
a la Praslin —Bavarian cream flavored with al¬ 
mond nougat pounded to a paste for the purpose. 
Bavarois aux Pistaches —Green Bavarian made 
with pounded pistachio nuts and almonds, colored 
with spinach juice. Bavarois aux Fruits —Bav¬ 
arian served with compote fruit. Bavarois aux 
Pommes— Puree of apples with whipped cream, set 
with gelatine, flavored with maraschino. Bavarois 
aux Poires— With pears instead of apples. Bava¬ 
rois Glace —Frozen Bavarian. 

BAY LEAF—Used constantly, but in small 
quantities for boiling in soups and sauces. It im¬ 
parts a flavor like that of plum kernels; is the leaf of 
a species of laurel; grows wild in parts of the South, 
plentiful in Florida. Sold in a dry state at the drug 
stores; cost very little. 

BAY RUM—Rum flavored with bay leaves. Is 
■one of the principal articles of manufacture and ex¬ 
port of some of the West India islands. It is used 
in various drinks, punches, etc., and as a toilet re¬ 
quisite, particularly for the hair. Home-made bay 
rum is prepared by procuring rum in its uncolored 
state; to every gallon ioo bay leaves, freshly gath¬ 
ered and bruised in a mortar, are added; steeped for 
io days with occasional agitation of the cask; allowed 
to settle, and drawn off. 

BEANS—The varieties are extremely numerous 
in this country, the choice sorts being Lima beans 
shelled green, white wax stringless beans and green 
string beans of successive varieties from early to 


BEA 

late. The Lima bean does not grow in England ex¬ 
cept as a climbing plant needing a hot and lengthy 
season to .nature it. Kidney beans, French beans 
and haricots verts are our string or snap beans, the 
kidney beans being the dwarf early kinds. French 
or string beans are kept green while cooking by 
being plunged into boiling water containing salt and 
very little soda or borax; boiled with the lid off, 
drained as soon as done and plunged in cold water 
and kept till wanted to warm up in the various 
sauces. They are nearly always shred lengthwise, 
not snapped across. String Beans a la Verz— 
Cooked in salted water, drained, put into a saucepan 
with butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg; white sauce and 
lemon juice. Haricots Verts a l’Anglaise— 
String beans boiled, drained, shaken up with butter 
and chopped parsley. Haricots Verts Sautes— 
Drained and simmered in butter, salt, pepper, 
parsley. Haricots Verts a la Maitre d’Hotel— 
Stewed string beans in white parsley sauce. Hari¬ 
cots Verts au Beurre Noir —Butter browned by 
frying, beans saute in it, salt, pepper, vinegar. 
Haricots Panaches a la Maitre d’Hotel— 
String beans and white beans mixed in white pars¬ 
ley sauce. Haricots Blancs a la Mcelle Are 
navy beans seasoned with marrow. Haricots 
Blancs au Beurre de Piment— Navy beans with 
minced red pepper in butter. Haricots Blancs au 
Jus —Are served with gravy. Haricots Rouges 

a la Bourguignonne -Are red (shelled) beans, 

cooked in meat stock with wine, herbs and onions. 
Cream de Haricots Verts —Is soup made by 
passing cooked string beans through a seive, adding 
cream and soup stock. Potage a la Conde —Is a 
soup of white beans. String Beans with Bacon— 
The popular style, bacon cut dice mixed with the 
beans. «. 

BEAR MEAT—Is eaten by nearly ail people 
where it can be obtained, although viewed with 
prejudice by many who meet with it for the first 
time. The meat is like pork, but darker; generally 
it is very fat. When objectionable eating it is the 
meat of an old animal. The best is the flesh of the 
bears which commit depredations in the cornfields 
of sparsely settled regions, where they grow very 
fat on corn and fruit. Young black and brown 
bears are preferable for meat, though the grizzly 
is eaten as well, but has a rank smell and flavor. 
The butcher in any western town can sell such bear 
meat as he may secure a third higher price than beef; 
and in the cities as a curiosity it brings a high figure. 
A bear weighing 450 lbs. was cut up in a London 
restaurant recently, and a trade journal says: “This 
fine specimen of the ursine family having found its 
way to the kitchen, the bill of fare duly announced 
'Jambon d'ours a la Lithuanieune and Pa ties d'ours 
(bear’s paws) a la Muscovite. We dropped in for a 
slice of roast bear ham, and found it decidedly 
‘gamey,’ but by no means unpalatable, the flavor 
somewhat resembling that of venison. Currant 
jelly, by the way, would have been a fitting accom- 







248 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


BEC 

paniment. We have before us Christmas bills of 
fare of the Galt House, Louisville, and Lindell Ho¬ 
tel, St. Louis, and under the head of game we find 
‘ roast cub bear with chestnut dressing ’ and * saddle 
of Rocky Mountain bear with currant jelly 

BEARD OF SHELLFISH—The mussel has a 
beard-like filament by which it hangs to the rocks, 
and it must be removed after cooking before the fish 
is taken from the shell. The oyster has no such 
beard, but when it is directed to beard oysters the 
part intended is the gristle by which it adheres to 
its shells. Some, however, will pull off the fringe, 
which are the oyster’s gills, for no good reason. 
Brit the gristly part is really dry and tasteless, and 
when choice patties, etc., are to be made, they are 
the better if that part is removed. 

BEARNAISE (a la)— Dishes so entitled have 
generally bearnaise sauce served with; otherwise it 
means in Swiss style. 

BEARNAISE SAUCE — Named from King 
Henry “ the Bearnaise ” or his Swiss home. Made 
of 4 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 2 spoons chop¬ 
ped shallots stewed in it, 2 spoons beef extract, 6 
egg yolks; stirred over fire till begins to thicken, re¬ 
moved to side and lb. butter added, little at a time, 
with occasional drops of water; strained, and chop¬ 
ped parsley', chervil, tarragon and red pepper added; 
served with fillet steaks, chops and fish. It is bright 
yellow, like butter, speckled with green. 

BEATEN BISCUITS—Specialty of Virginia 
and adjoining states. A trade journal, remarking 
upon the difficulty of striking anything new in the 
biscuit line, says: “The ividow of a well-known 
Presbyterian divine has had a bright, original idea, 
and is now making a tidy little fortune out of what 
are called beaten biscuits. These biscuits are not 
exactly novel; they are just such dainty cakes as the 
lady, in more prosperous and happier times, was 
accustomed to prepare with her own domestic appli¬ 
ances and dignify with the appellation ‘home-baked.’ 
The dough seems to have been ‘beaten’ or whipped 
up till the biscuits turned out as white as snow, 
with a delicious golden crust. Many of the wonder¬ 
fully clever old negress cooks in Tennessee and Ken¬ 
tucky houses, with their black but deft fingers, pre¬ 
pared just such biscuits with a crispness, a color and 
a flavor that fairly deserved the epithet ‘divine.’ Mrs. 
Pratt’s beaten biscuits are, however, now all the 
rage in the latitude and longitude of Louisville.” 
These biscuits are in reality a hot cracker; the dough 
has the same ingredients in it as ordinary soft bis¬ 
cuits, but not so much powder, and needs must be 
made up with milk. The special quality is attained 
by pounding the lump of dough with a wooden 
maul; a biscuit break would do the same. 

BEC ASSES (Fr.)—Woodcocks. 

BECASSINES (Fr.)—Snipes. 

. BECHAMEL—The Marquis de Bechamel, the 
rich financiere and great epicure, whose cream 


BEC 

sauce for turbot and cod has been extolled with 
grandiloquence by a score historians of the table, 
including De la Reynifere and Ude. The Marquis 
was at one time maitre d'hotel to one of the French 
kings. 

BECHAMEL SAUCE—Cream sauce made with 
seasoned chicken broth reduced to the richness of 
jelly, with mushroom essence added, poured to the 
usual white roux of butter and flour stirred together 
over the fire, and an equal quantity cream added. 
Fowi.s in Bechamel, and all meat dishes a la 
Bechamel are simply served with cream sauce. 
Codfish and Turbot a la Bechamel —Are in 
flakes in sauce resembling our “picked-up fish in 
cream.” 

BECHE DE MER—The sea-slug or trepang or 
sea cucumber; a kind of sea caterpillar of consider¬ 
able importance to the Asiatics, who eat it and trade 
in it dried. It is from 8 to 15 inches long and 



abundant on the Florida reefs. At Key West an 
enterprising yankee went into the business of mak¬ 
ing trepang' (dried beche de mer) a few years ago, 
but he did not succeed in making it pay. ( See Chi¬ 
nese Cookery.) Beche de Mer Soup —“With refer¬ 
ence to that prime Celestial delicacy, the beche de 
mer, or sea-slug, it may be of interest to describe 
the method of making the soup as I have seen it 
prepared by several good Chinese cooks. For, say, 
ten persons make soup in the ordinary way, of beef,, 
etc. Take two teat fish (sea-slugs) of good quality, 
or a corresponding quantity of black or red fish, 
soak in water from 12 to 24 hours, thoroughly scrape 
and cl an from time to time, changing the water as 
required, as it swells greatly. The result will be a 
glutinous-looking mass, like lumps of jelly. Boil 
separately for five or six hours; take out and cut or 
mince up very fine. About a quarter of an hour be¬ 
fore serving add this to the soup and let it boil. 
There must not be any vegetables. Mince or egg 
balls are a desirable addition, also sherry, etc., to 
taste. This gives a body to the soup, which, if left 
over, will be almost a jelly when cold. I believe if 
the beche de mer were understood it would be used 
all over the world, especially for invalids, as it is- 
very strengthening, and, although anything but 
nice-looking in its dry state, it is a very delicate 
article of diet when properly treated. It makes a 
splendid addition to beef tea, and I would call the 
attention of medical men to this fact. In the form 
of soup it is frequently used in the clubs and leading 
hotels in Melbourne and Sydney.” 

BECFIGUE (Fr.); BECCAFICIO (It.)—Fig- 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


249 


BEE 

picker; a little bird closely resembling- the American 
rice bird, considered as great a luxury and is cooked 
in the same way 

BEEFSTEAK ORIGIN ATION—Brother John - 
athan and John Bull have to thank Lucius Plaucus, 
a Roman senator, who was commanded by the Em¬ 
peror Trajan to act as one of the menial sacrificers 
to Jupiter. In the process of flesh-roasting one of 
the pieces fell off the altar, and in order to restore it 
Plaucus burnt his fingers, thrust them into his 
mouth, and whilst scorning the office he was set to 
perform, made up for his coersion by devouring 
every morsel; he thus deluded Trajan, defrauded 
Jupiter, and invented the beefsteak. 

BEEF—The progress of the times, rapid transit, 
large slaughtering and packing operations, whole¬ 
sale methods of preserving meat both raw and 
cooked, the utilization of every part for its best pur¬ 
pose and the absence of the old methods and necess¬ 
ities of pushing off parts of the carcass to get rid of 
them, and also the higher development of the hotel 
and restaurant systems, have all tended to make 
changes in the methods of cutting up beef and less¬ 
ened the significance of the names of joints and cuts 
■as they used to be. The fillet is now a separate cut 
and can be bought of the packers by the hundred or 
thousand pounds; the thin flank is not offered for 
sale; the packers put it to good use as canned corn 
beef. The summer hotel can have rib roasts, first 
choice or second choice as ordered delivered from 
the packing houses, all ready, with the bones re¬ 
moved, the meat coiled up and bound around, skew¬ 
ered, ready for putting in the oven, and not only 
that, but can have them sent wrapped in paper and 
in a frozen condition from a great distance. Loins 
•of beef, either short or long, either first choice meat 
or seconds, can be bought close trimmed in the same 
accommodating manner, divested of the kidney fat, 
which the packers use profitably in the form of but- 
terine, and without any surplus bones, for the pack¬ 
ers dispose of some of them for various uses in the 
arts, and the rest for fertilizers. Cotes de Bgeuf 
a la Broche —Roast ribs of beef. Aloyau a la 
Bkoche —Roast sirloin of beef. Aloyau de Bceuf 
a la Provencale —Sirloin larded, spread with a 
high-flavored stuffing of marrow, anchovies, gariic, 
etc.; roasted and served with piquante sauce. 
Aloyau Braise a la Godard —Top sirloin gar¬ 
nished with slices of sweetbreads, mushrooms, 
truffles, etc., in the reduced wine braise of the beef. 
Aloyau Braise a la Royale— Top sirloin larded 
and braised. A la Printaniere —Served with 
young vegetables. A la Portugaise — With 
glazed onions and sauce. Filet de Bceuf au Jus 
d’Orange —The tenderloin served like duck with 
orange sauce. Filet de Bceuf a la Napolitaine— 
Larded, marinaded, braised, served with Napoli¬ 
taine sauce, of horse-radish, ham, wine, jelly and 
brown gravy. Filet de Bceuf a la Bohemienne— 
Tenderloin larded, marinaded by steeping in oil 


BEE 

with vegetabtes and aromatics, braised or roasted, 
served with fried potatoes, olives, pickled mush¬ 
rooms and onions in poivrade sauce. Rouelle de 
Bceuf au Four —Round of beef spiced and baked 
with water and fat in a covered pot. Noix de 
Bceuf Braisee —Chumps of beef braised. Piece 
de Bceuf- Garnie a la F lamande —Is salted brisket 
boiled and served with Brussels sprouts. Piece de 
Bceuf a la St. Florentin —Top sirloin rolled, 
roasted, seived with Robert sauce. Cotes de Bceuf 
Braisees a la Puree de Tomatoes —Beef with 
tomato sauce. Bceuf Hollandaise —Is smoked 
beef boiled. Rosbif a l’Anglaise —Roast beef 
with Yorkshire pudding and horse-radish. Pate 
de Bceuf aux Pommes de Terre—A pie of minced 
beef and mashed potatoes with a crust of mashed 
potatoes. Bifteck a la Francaise— Broiled steak 
with French fried potatoes. Porterhouse or Fil¬ 
let Steak a la Bearnaise— Steak broiled and 
served with Bearnaise sauce over or around. Ten¬ 
derloin Steak a l 5 Hoteliere— Steak fried in 
butter, gravy made in the pan with cream sauce and 
essence of beef. Tenderloin Steak with Olives— 
Steak fried in oil, gravy made in the pan with espa- 
gnole and wine; stoned olives added. 1 enderloin 
(or Fillet) Steak with Mushrooms —Steak fried 
in butter or beef fat, gravy made in the same pan of 
espagnole with Madeira and mushrooms. Tender¬ 
loin (Fillet) Steak a la Mirabeau — Steak 
broiled, basted with oil, Mirabeau sauce of garlic, 
white sauce, parsley, lemon and beef extract. Filet 
de Bceuf a la Maitre d’Hotel— Tenderloin steak 
with butter, mixed with chopped parsley, and lemon 
juice spread over it; fried potatoes around. Filet 
de Bceuf a la Chateaubriand— Thick fillet steaks 
with extracts of beef, butter, parsley and lemon for 
sauce. Filet de Bceuf a l’Italienne— Thin steaks 
floured and fried brown, served in brown Italian 
sauce. Escalopes de Bceuf a la Reforme (club)— 
Thin tenderloin steaks, each one between two slices 
of bacon, breaded, with chopped ham mixed with 
the bread crumbs, and fried; served with reforip 
sauce of poivrade and harvey sauces, port wine and 
currant jelly. Escalopes de Bceuf a la N emours— 
Thin fillet steaks covered with forcemeat and slices 
of ham, put together in pairs, breaded and fried; 
served with white sauce. Escalopes de Filet de 
Bceuf a l’Ostende— Spread with thick white sauce 
containing chopped oysters and onions, in pairs, 
breaded and fried; brown sauce. Grenadine de 
Filet de Bceuf a la Financiere— Thin tenderloin 
steaks larded, cooked in mirepoix and served in the 
sauce with financiere garnish. Tournedos a la 
Sauce Poivrade —Slices of cooked fillet dressed in 
a crown alternately with fried slices of bread of the 
same size; poivrade sauce in the center. Entre¬ 
cotes de Bceuf a la Bordelaise— Thick rib steaks 
broiled; bordelaise sauce and pieces of beef marrow. 
Bceuf en Saucissons— Very thin slices of beef 
rolled up like sausages with forcemeat inside, baked 
in a covered pan; served with the sauce. Other cuts 




250 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


BEE 

and different parts and ways of cooking may be 
found under the proper letters. Beef Rissoles— 
Minced beef, either raw or cooked, or both mixed; 
with sausage seasonings and fat, or crumb of bread 
to make it cohesive, is rolled into sausage shapes 
and then rolled up in a thin covering of pie paste, 
egged over and baked. 

BEEF SOUPS—Several varieties having beef 
for the stock or principal ingredient, or having dice- 
cut beef in them. 

BEEFSTEAK PUDDING—A boiled meat pie. 
The English make puddings of snipes, partridges, 
and every -kind of meat by lining a deep bowl or 
mould with suet short paste, placing in the beef¬ 
steak or birds with seasoning additions of mush¬ 
rooms, onions, cayenne, salt, aromatics, sauce and 
water; cover the top with a sheet of paste; tie a 
cloth over and boil for 3 or 4 hours. 

BEEFSTEAK PIE—Similar to beefsteak pud¬ 
ding, baked. Saucisson Beefsteak Pie —Specialty 
of a London restaurant. Started like the French 
bceuf en saucissons named above. Chopped cooked 
game or other meat seasoned with aromatics, rolled 
up in shavings of steak to size of corks; these placed 
in layers in deep pie dish with mushrooms, onions, 
etc., between. Mussel or oyster liquor for special 
seasoning; gravy added, top crust and baked. 

BEEF TEA—Is made best of minced raw beef 
in cold water set in a jar or other vessel surrounded 
by boiling water, but never allowed to boil, which 
would coagulate the albumen and make the liquor 
less nutritious. Some physicians recommend a raw 
beef tea, the beef scraped into cold water only. 
Liebigs’ extract of meat is beef tea in a concentrated 
form, only needs diluting to be ready for use. 

BEEF TEA JELLY—Strong beef tea or extract 
of meat with 3 oz. of starch or 4 oz. of arrowroot 
stirred in at boiling point; taken off the fire and 
made cold. For invalids to change from beef tea. 

BEEF A LA MODE—Is not the same as the h 
la mode beef of a former page. This, either larded 
through with strips of fat bacon or has such strips 
rolled up in it, is braised with herbs and wine and 
cut in slices across the larding when done. There 
are at least three or four styles of the dish, depend¬ 
ing only upon what is served with it; as Allemande, 
with raisin sauce; Auglaize, with vegetables; Fran- 
caise, with a ragout of mushrooms and quenelles in 
wine sauce. 

BEEF, THE “BARON” OF—“In accordance 
with the custom the Queen’s table was furnished at 
Christmas with a splendid ‘baron’ of beef, weigh¬ 
ing about 300 lbs., which was flanked on either side 
by a boar’s head and a woodcock pie. The huge 
joint, as is customary, was roasted at Windsor 
Castle and thence despatched to Osborne. By the 
way, why the ‘baron’ of beef has so lordly a title is 
not quite clear. As the joint consists of the beast’s 
two sirloins—or ‘Sir Loins,’ as some people spell 


BEE 

the word—not cut asunder, the name may possibly 
have been given on the principle that ore baron is 
equal to two knights.” 

BEEF EATERS—“Beef and mutton was the 
diet that bred that hardy race of mortals who won 
the fields of Cressy and Agincourt. I need not get 
up so far as the history of Guy, Earl of Warwick, 
who is well known to have eaten up a dun cow of 
his own killing. The renowned king Arthur is 
generally looked upon as the first who ever sat 
down to a whole roasted ox, -which was certainly 
the best way to preserve the gravy; and it is further 
added that he and his knights sat about it at his 
round table, and usually consumed it to the very 
bones before they would enter upon debate of 
moment.” 

BEEFSTEAK, HOW TO COOK—It requires 
courage in the light of our knowledge and almost 
daily experience for one to assert that there is no 
reason why every beefsteak that is put on the lable 
should not, so far as cooking is concerned, approach 
the ideal steak. “Subscriber” writes from far 
Louisiana to know how his cook may be instructed 
to give him a good beefsteak. A member of my 
own family has brought the cooking of this article 
of food to what we consider perfection. The first 
requirement is not so much a tender and juicy steak, 
though this is always to be devoutly desired, but a 
glowing bed of coals, a wire grid-iron—a stout one, 
with good-sized wires—a double one, so that you 
can turn the steak without touching it. The steak 
should not be pounded; only in extreme cases, when, 
it is cut too thick and is “stringy.” Attempt noth¬ 
ing else when cooking the steak; have everything 
else ready for the table; the potatoes and vegetables 
all in their respective dishes in the warming closet 
or oven, with the door left open a little way. From 
ten minutes onward is needed to cook the steak. 
The time must depend on the size, and you can eas¬ 
ily tell by the color of the gravy which runs from 
the steak, when gently pressed with a knife, as to 
its condition. If the master of the house likes it 
“rare done,” when there is a suspicion of brown 
gravy with the red, it will be safe to infer that it is 
done enough for him; if, as is generally the case, 
the next stage is the favorite one, remove the steak 
from the grid-iron the instant the gravy is wholly 
of a light brown. Remove it to a hot platter, pepper 
and salt to your taste, put on small lumps of butter, 
and then for two brief moments cover it with a hot 
plate, the two moments being sufficient to carry it to 
the table. One absolutely essential factor in the pre¬ 
paration of good beefsteak is that it must be served 
at once. If “Subscriber” can impress it upon his 
cook that she is not to let the steak stand and steam 
while she is doing other things, he will be likely to 
receive his reward for so doing. If he can inspire 
his cook with a desire to excel, if he can induce her 
to believe that it is worth while to take pains, he 
will do an even more important work than to pro¬ 
duce a delicious steak. I often think that a good 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


251 


BEE 

cook must belong- to one or two orders —she must 
be a Christian of great conscientiousness, or a per¬ 
son of abundant culture, whose sole delight is to do 
well and with thought whatever is undertaken. 
The Secret of Grilling —While busy at the grill, 
showing everyone present how it is done to a turn, 
the following query has often been put to the 
writer: “Will you impart the secret how to grill? 
for my cook is a very good cook, but she cannot 
produce me a satisfactory chop or steak.” Of 
course, every cook in a private family does not pre¬ 
fer the frying-pan to the grid-iron, because it is 
more convenient. Oh no! I am not going to say 
anything of the kind. Some of my querists have 
gone so far as to have an apparatus fitted up after 
the fashion of the well-known type of the public 
grill, but with no better result. What is to be done ? 
I will tell you. The operation is perfection, for it 
is simplicity itself, and simplicity is perfection. 
“Turn, turn, turn away; that’s it, boy” (for I was a 
boy once); “you cannot turn them too often,” so 
said my tutor, old Tom Brown, the celebrated grill 
manipulator of the then universally known Joe’s 
Chop House, of Finch Lane. It is impossible to 
give any stated time for grilling anything; there is 
but one method of judging when the articles are 
properly cooked, that is, by bringing into play what 
the illusionist finds indispensable, viz.: the sense of 
touch. Strange as it may appear, these two arts go 
readily hand in hand. Now, reader, all you have 
to do is to practise. 

BEER SOUP; BIER SUPPE (Ger.) — (/)-A 
traveler, who says he has often partaken of it in 
country houses and at the beer houses in the cities, 
and that it is eaten cold, at least in summer, describes 
it as half beer, half water, with bread crumbs, cur¬ 
rants and lemon peel stirred up in it. 0 ?)-A hot 
beer soup, called German, is the same as English ale 
posset, being 2 qts. mild beer simmered with sugar 
snd spices and poured upon 6 beaten eggs and y 2 
pint cream; all whisked till frothy and poured upon 
a slice of toast in a bowl. (j)-Bread and caraway 
seeds boiled in mild beer and poured upon beaten 
eggs; hot enough to thicken, but not to curdle 
them. 

BEIGNET (Fr.)—Fritter. Beignets Souffles- 
Fritters which puff up hollow; also called aigrettes; 
they are a la vanille when flavored. Beignets a la 
Dominique —Savory, made of a delicate salpifon or 
mince of chicken, with aromatic seasoning in flat¬ 
tened balls, dipped in oil-and-wine fritter batter and 
fried; served with chopped truffle and tongue in 
glaze. Beignets d’Abricots a la Chartres— 
Apricot fritters. Beignets aux Fleurs d’Orange- 
Flavored with orange flower water. Beignets en 
Surprise —Apples partly hollowed, the stalks left 
on, soaked in brandy, filled with apricot jam, dipped 
in batter and fried. Beignets au Maizena —Cus¬ 
tard or cream fritters made with corn starch. 
Beignets a la Portugaise— Rice croquettes with 
marmalade in the center. Beignets aux Con- 


BER 

futures —Fritters served with preserve. Beignets 
a l’Allemande —Also called Bismarck’s; a spoon¬ 
ful of jam between two thin flats of light dough; 
allowed to rise, then fried. Beignets a la Prus- 
sienne —Apple turnovers ( which see) fried instead 
of baked. Beignets de Fleurs de Sureau— 
Fritters of sprigs of elder flowers. Beignets 
d’Oranges —Orange fritters. Beignets de Cin- 
tra —Thin round slices of cake soaked in cream, 
flavored with brandy, floured and fried. Beignets 
a la Creme —Custard fritters; pieces of custard 
made with flour or starch firm enough to cut when 
cold, dipped in batter and fried. Beignets aux 
Confitures —Marmalade fritters; thin sandwiches 
of cake and jam dipped in batter and fried. Beignets 
a la Chantilly —Cream cheese fritters, made of 
sweet cream curd, flour, eggs, sugar and wine, drop¬ 
ped by small spoonfuls in hot lard and fried. Beig¬ 
nets d’Abricots a l’Eau de Vie —Apricots and 
brandied bread in batter. Beignets de Peches a 
la Royal —Peach fritters. Beignets de Fraises 
a la Dauphine —Strawberry fritters. 

BENGAL CHUTNEY—A sour-sweet-savory 
jam, used as a relish with meat, game, etc.; made of 1 
lb. each tamarinds, sultana raisins, tomatoes, apples, 
ginger, moist sugar; y 2 lb. red chillies; y 2 lb. each 
garlic and onions; 4 qts. strong vinegar; rind and 
juice 8 lemons; ingredients pulped or minced. 
Kept a month in warm place to ferment; tied down 
in small jars; served sometimes with curried fish. 
{See Indian chutney.) 

BERKELEY PUDDING (Fr.-Eng. specialty.)- 
A bread-suet pudding boiled in a mould; made of i 
lb. bread crumbs, 1 lb. suet, 1 lb. moist sugar, 4 eggs, 
1 glass ale, juice 2 lemons. Boiled 2 hours; served 
with a sabayon sauce. 

BEETS—Best for table are the blood beets; sugar 
beets, nearly white inside, are as good for serving 
in sauce hot, not so good for ornamental purposes. 
Favorite ways of using them: Beets in Butter — 
Young garden beets boiled quite tender in their 
skins, peeled, sliced; salt and plain butter. Beets 
in Sauce —Butter sauce with vinegar in it; little 
sugar and salt. Beets in Vinegar —Cold blood- 
beets sliced and covered with vinegar; called also 
pickled beets. Will keep a week if cool. Bette- 
raves a la Creme —Cut up in dice in a white 
sauce. Betteraves a la Poitevine —Cut in slices 
like sections of an orange; after boiling, served in 
brown sauce with onions and spices. Betteraves 
a la Chartreuse —Yellow beets sliced after boil¬ 
ing, a slice of onion between two slices of beets; 
dipped in batter and fried. Beet Soup {Seebarszez.) 
Beets in Salads {See salads.) Beets are largely 
used for decorating dishes. 

BERLINGOTS DE ROUEN (Fr.); BERLIN- 
GOZZI (It.)—Stick candy. 

BERLIN PANCAKES (Ger.: Berlinen Pfann- 
kuchen) —Are known in this country as Bismarks 
in France as Beignets a /’ Allemande. They are 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


BET 

rich yeast-raised doughnuts, having a spoonful of 
preserve inside; are nearly round. Like all dough¬ 
nuts they are fried in lard and rolled in sugar when 
•done. In Poland they have the same by the name of 
Ponskis. 

BETTERAVE (Fr.)—Beetroot; beets. 

BEURRE (Fr.)—Butter. Beurre d’Anciiois— 
Anchovy butter. Beurre de Homard —Lobster 
butter. 

BIBINCA DOSEE—This is the name of a fam¬ 
ous Portuguese pudding, well worthy of a trial by 
way of variety. Scrape two cocoanuts finely; pour 
boiling water thereon, sufficient to yield a breakfast - 
■cupful of strong infusion, after soaking for a quar¬ 
ter of an hour, and set it aside. Prepare a syrup 
from three-quarters of a pound of sugar; mix into 
this half a pound of rice flour or rizine, finely sifted, 
-and the cocoanut infusion. Boil over a brisk fire 
with constant stirring, until it thickens. Pour into 
a buttered dish, and bake to a light-brown color.— 
Note —There must be 3 pints of liquid to that amount 
of rice flour. 

BIGARADE -Name of an orange. Orange sauce 
for ducks, etc., made by cutting the rind of sour 
oranges in fine shreds, parboiling, adding them and 
the juice to brown sauce or gravy. 

BIJOUTIER (Fr.)—Name facetiously applied to 
dealers who gather up cooked food from the clubs 
and private houses for re-sale. The word legit¬ 
imately means jeweler. The bijoutier pays so much 
' a month to the chefs, basing his calculations after a 
week’s trial, and sells the broken victuals in as¬ 
sorted platefuls in the public market. 

BIRD PEPPER—The small chilies or capsicums 
of which ground cayenne is made. 

BIRDS’ NEST SOUP—-The birds’ nests from 
which the far-famed soup is made are built by a 
species of swallow which abound on the coast of 
Java, Ceylon and Borneo, and practically consists of 
a gelatinous substance obtained from marine plants. 
The nests are boiled either in chicken broth or in 
milk, with almonds. The result very much resem¬ 
bles vermicelli soup, but is more costly. 

BISCUITS—Crackers in England and France are 
•called biscuits; in the United States they are a short¬ 
ened kind of rolls or breakfast-bread, usually eaten 
warm; name from two words signifying twice baked, 
;. <?., dry. Made of flour—all or any kind—with bak¬ 
ing powder, salt and shortening, or with flour, but¬ 
termilk, salt and soda. Biscuits are the oldest form 
of bread. At what time of man’s history the light¬ 
ening of dough by fermentation was first adopted no 
one, of course, knows. It is, however, certain that 
cakes made of nothing but meal and water is much 
older. Fragments of unfermented cakes were dis¬ 
covered in the Swiss lake dwellings which belong 
to the neolithic age—an age dating back far beyond 
the received age of the world. This is the earliest 
instance of biscuits as yet discovered, for biscuits 
are merely unfermented bread. 


BLA 

BISCUITS DE RHEIMS—French specialty- 
eaten with champagne. It is a variation of lady fin¬ 
gers or Naples biscuits dried. Made by adding and 
beating 4 eggs to 12 ounces sugar, making warm 
while beating; then cool; 8oz. flour, 1 oz. arrowroot, 
lemon rind for flavor; baked like finger sponge cakes; 
dry in slow oven. 

BISCUIT GLACE—Has two meanings which 
causes mistakes. (/)-Savoy or sponge cake iced or 
glazed with sugar is a biscuit de savoieglace. (2)- 
Ice cream of any kind in a mould; especially small 
biscuits or cakes of ice cream in paper cases are 
meant, as they were the original “cakes of ice’’— 
biscuits places. 

BISQUE—A paste or puree. Potage Bisque au 
Riz is fish soup with crayfish tails and rice. Bisque 
of Crayfish —Soup of rice and crayfish, in veal 
broth; the crayfish partly fried with butter, onion, 
carrots, salt pork; broth added, boiled an hour; tails 
of crayfish saved, boiled rice and crayfish hulls 
pounded through a strainer and added to the soup 
with crayfish tails and parsley. This is the soup 
which some humanitarians of northern France 
moved against because the crayfish are thrown into 
the hot fry alive. Bisque of Lobster —Soup of 
lobster and rice; first fried, then boiled and pounded 
lobster meat and shell, with rice, passed through 
seive, and soup thickened with it; finished with but¬ 
ter, sherry and squares of fried bread. Bisque of 
Crabs —Made same as bisque of lobster; crabs boiled 
first, cut up, fried with onions, celery, salt pork, 
stock added; boiled an hour; rice boiled, and puree 
of rice and crabs thickens soup; sherry, etc., to finish. 
Bisque of Oysters —A white soup like cream 
sauce, the oysters after boiling rubbed through a 
seive, milk and cream with the broth and oyster 
liquor, and butter roux to thicken; slight flavoring of 
bay leaf and mace. Bisque of Plover a la Ros¬ 
sini —Plovers braised in port wine stock an hour, 
the meat then pounded fine and passed through seive. 
Semolina boiled in broth, also passed through seive, 
and plover stock thickened with them. Served with 
grisini bread. {Seegrisini.') Bisque of Partridge 
a la Dauphine —The meat of roast partridges, 
chestnuts and white bread made into a puree with 
broth and port wine. 

BISQUE ICES—Ice creams containing a paste, 
not too finely strained—of fruit, preserved ginger, 
chestnuts, walnuts, almonds and the like are named 
accordingly, as Bisque of Pineapple, made by 
adding to ice cream some pounded, preserved or 
stewed pineapple. 

BLACKBERRY — Uses of: Dried Black¬ 
berries —One bushel of fruit makes 10 pounds 
dried. Blackberry Pies— Great favorite in the 
season. (r)-Made by heaping the berries raw in a 
pie crust sugaring, and covering same as apple pies. 
(2)-Berries and thin-sliced apples mixed together, 
sugared, covered and baked slowly, (j)-Black¬ 
berries stewed, or taken from cans, and little sugar 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


253 


BLA 

added; baked with top crust, or in open pies, with 
strips over. (^j-Pies, English style, in deep earthen¬ 
ware dishes, a tea cup inverted in the dish; all 
around filled with berries and sugar, short crust; the 
cup draws in the juice and is found to be full when 
lifted, and besides it holds up the center of the crust. 
Blackberry Roly-Poly —Short paste or biscuit 
dough rolled thin, covered with berries or with 
blackberry jam, oiled up in a cloth (like a huge bo¬ 
logna), ends and middle secured, boiled an hour or 
more; may be baked as well; served with butter and 
sugar Blackberry Shortcake —Same as straw¬ 
berry, raspberry, etc. Blackberry Meringue— 
Ripe berries with sugar spread upon a thin sheet of 
cake, meringue or frosting, same as for lemon pies, 
spread upon the berries; baked a little; cut out in 
squares. Blackberry Cobbler —Same as cherry, 
peach, etc. Blackberry Dumplings —Half a cup 
-of berries inclosed in paste, like apple dumplings. 
Br ACKBERRY Pudding— Berries mixed in bread 
puddings, boiled or baked same as raisins are used. 
Blackberry Batter Puddings —Batter thin in a 
baking pan, like Yorkshire pudding; berries strewed 
over the surface; baked. Blackberry Syrup and 
CoRDiAL-(.S>d’ drinks.) Blackberry Wine-( 5 >p 
wines.) Blackberries as Table Fruit —Washed 
and drained, served in fruit saucers or glass dishes 
with broken ice scattered over the top, ice only 
placed at the time of serving. Powdered sugar 
served separate. 

BLACK-COCK—Kind of grouse—Scotch and 
English—not very highly esteemed for table; are 
bung a long time to make them tender; roasted and 
stewed with wine in the sauce. Coqs de Bruyere 
A la Royale —Black-cocks larded, braised, and 
served with a white sauce and small rissoles of game. 
Coos de Bruyere a la Rob Roy —Black-cock 
stuffed, roasted with sprigs of heather and whisky, 
and served with butter sauce. 

BLACKFISH—A black perch, esteemed as a pan 
fish, fairly plentiful in the southern markets. Smaller 
and blacker than the black bass; flesh is much like it. 

BLACK STRAP—A tipple of a mixture of rum 
and molasses; a souvenir of old colonial days and of 
the hard cider campaign. 

BLACK PUDDINGS (Boudins Noir )—A kind 
of sausage of pig’s blood mixed with dice-cut pieces 
of pork fat, onions and sometimes a little cooked 
barley or rice; all seasoned with aromatic salt, filled 
into skins and boiled. They are eaten either cold or 
split lengthwise, and broiled or fried. They are, or 
used to be, universally eaten on Christmas Eve by 
the French middle classes. The Flemish way is to 
cat them with baked apples. Edmond About used 
to tell of a good monk who once indulged in a ham 
omelette on a Friday, when a thunder storm came 
on, and he threw the uncanonical delicacy out of the 
window, murmuring: “All this noise about an om¬ 
elette! ” And of another, being rebuked for eating 


BLU 

a black pudding on Good Friday, replied with: 
“ Why not? The pudding is deep mourning! ” 

BLANCHAILLES—The French coined word for 
that small minnow-like fish, the famous English 
whitebait. 

BLANCH—To scald. It means to whiten, liter¬ 
ally. To blanch almonds is to scald and peel them; 
to blanch parsley, chives, shallots and herbs is to 
plunge them a minute in boiling water that they may 
not go into the sauce raw. 

BLANC MANGE—Literally white-food. Cream 
or milk set with gelatine, an ounce to a quart, sweet¬ 
ened and flavored. When quite cold it is solid enough 
to be turned out of a mould and keep its shape on the 
table. 

BLANQUETTE—A sort of general designation 
for any dish of white meat having a white or creamy 
sauce and no other special flavoring or character¬ 
istic. There are blanquettes of veal, lamb, fowl 

* 

and quail, but not of beef or dark meats. Blanc 
de Volaille aux Concombers —White meat of 
fowl, with cream sauce and cucumbers. Blan¬ 
quette d’Agneau — Small round slices of lamb 
and of ham or tongue, with white sauce, parsley; 
served in a baked shape of rice or bordered w r ith 
fried crusts. Blanquette de Ris de Veau aux 
Truffes —Sweetbreads cut in round slices, with 
slices of truffles in cream-colored sauce, made of 
broth, cream, butter and yolks of eggs. 

BLOATERS—Often called Yarmouth bloaters; 
are smoked herrings, the town of Yarmouth having 
a special fame for them. The largest herrings are 
selected and mild-cured; not for long keeping. 
Their fatness causes them to bloat or swell while in 
the smoke, hence the name. 

BLONDE—Culinary term; Avhite broth. Soup 
liquor in which is no roasted or fried or dark-col¬ 
ored meats, though it be well seasoned otherwise. 
It is merely for use in rich cooking instead of hot 
water. Blonde de Veau -Veal broth. 

BLUEBERRIES—Also called huckleberries and 
whortleberries; grow wild in the eastern and middle 
states. Used in all ways the same as blackberries. 

BLUE-FISH—Is split open same style as macke¬ 
rel—down the back—and broiled. Blue-fish, 
White Wine Sauce —Cooked in pan with buttered 
paper over, pan containing white wine, broth, onion 
and aromatics; thickened when fish is done with 
flour-and-butter and egg yolks. Blue-fish, Mate¬ 
lote Sauce —Similar to the preceding; matelote is 
fish stew, and contains garlic, onions, mussels, an¬ 
chovy essence, red pepper, lemon juice. Fillets 
of Blue-fish a la Duxelles — Boneless sides 
spread with sauce, breaded and fried, served with 
Duxelles sauce round in the dish. Blue-fish in 
Season —From May till November. 

BLUE POINT OYSTERS—Small, but plump 
oysters for serving raw; first so named from a par- 




254 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


BOA 



ticular locality near New York; now bred and cul¬ 
tivated to this requirement in various places. 

BOA—The late Mr. Frank Buckland recom¬ 
mended boa-constrictor for its white and firm flesh, 
“tasting something like veal;” but it is to be ob¬ 
served that this enthusiastic naturalist’s opinion 
is founded only on the fact that he “once ate” a 
sample. Possibly the extreme scarcity of boa-con 
strictor flesh in the markets was the cause of his 
subsequent abstinence. 

BOAR’S HEAD—There has been more ceremo¬ 
niousness in the manner of serving the boar’s head 
in olden times than with anything else save the pea¬ 
cock, and the survival of some old customs still 
makes this a more important dish than it otherwise 
would be. It was in accordance with a custom, 
ancient even then, that king Henry II himself 
served the boar’s head to his son on the latter’s 
coronation; the procession was preceded by trump¬ 
ets. The hog’s head is boned, stuffed, boiled, 
pressed in shape, the cloth bandage taken off and 
the head is decorated fancifully, sometimes to imi¬ 
tate life, with spun sugar for bristles, sometimes 
made gay with colored jelly and flowers. 

BOISSON—The economic Norman usually di¬ 
lutes cider with water, and it is then sold and 
bought as boisson. Boisson means drink generally 
elsewhere; in Normandy it has the meaning of di¬ 
luted cider. 

BOIVIN STEAK —Entrecote boivin\ restaurant 
specialty. Steak broiled, sauce poured over made 
of some spoonfuls of gravy simmered down with 
leaves of tarragon, and crushed pepper, meat glaze 
and butter roux added; strained. 

BOMBE—Ices in a mould; an outside coating of 
one kind, filling of another. Bombe aux Fruits— 
Mould lined with chocolate ice cream and center 
filled with tutti-frutti. Bombe a la Souveraine— 
Mould lined with white almond ice (milk of pounded 
almonds), filled with tea ice cream. After filling 
packed in ice. 

BOMBAY TOAST—Anchovy butter with equal 
amount of raw yolks stirred over fii-e till scrambled, 
spread on fried bread. 

BONIFACE—The term applied to landlords; 
originates from a character in a play written by 
George Farquhar in 1707. Will Boniface was the 
landlord of the inn. The play had a great run and 
the name Boniface became a synonym for hotel- 
keeper thereafter. 


BOR 

BONED MEATS—The term means boneless. 
Turkeys, chickens, pigs’ heads, etc., have the bones 
taken out before cooking and are called boned tur¬ 
keys, etc. 

BON—Good. The French cooks’ usual response 
to an order, instead of the English “ very well,” or 
the American “all right.” 

BONDINETTES OF GAME—Minced game of 
any kind, seasoned, mixed with small proportion of 
bread crumbs, parsley; egg and broth beaten to¬ 
gether to moisten the mince; baked in little paper 
cases; served with green peas. 

BONITO—Southern sea fish of the Spanish mack¬ 
erel family, sometimes found 3 or 4 feet in length 
its principal food is the flying fish of southern 
waters.. The flesh has a bluish tinge, and that of 
the large ones is rather coarse, but firm, and makes 
good and shapely steaks for broiling. Bonito a la 
Provencale —Boiled in broth with little flour, wine,, 
onion and parsley in it. Liquor strained, thickened;, 
capers added. 

BON VIVANT (Fr.)—Good-liver;,high-liver; a 
luxurious eater. 

BORAGE—A garden herb; balm. A leaf or two- 
at a time is used to top a punch or wine-cup. 

BORAX AND BORACIC ACID—A borax val¬ 
ley was discovered in California, a dead valley, so- 
called, or alkali tract, in which was no life; and this 
proved to be a great, indeed an inexhaustible deposit 
of borax, and a company was formed to work it. 
The discoverer found the carcass of a horse there 
which had died several months before and was still 
like fresh meat, the boron, boracic acid, or whatever 
the name of the principle might be, having preserved 
it. It is said the various useful properties of borax 
were known to the ancient Egyptians who used it in 
embalming their dead. They have been well known, 
in recent times, but the material was too scarce to al¬ 
low the knowledge to be of much use. Boracic 
Meat Preservation— A new process of preserving 
meat consists in injecting a solution of boracic acid 
into the blood of an animal immediately after it has 
been stunned, and before the heart has ceased to 
beat, the whole operation, including the removal of 
all the blood and chemical fluid from the body of the 
animal, only taking a few minutes. A demonstration 
of the effects of this process has been given at the 
Adelphi Hotel, London. The joints cut from a 
sheep, which had been hanging for more than 
seven weeks at the House of the Society of Arts, 
were cooked in various ways, and those present 
agreed that the meat was equal to ordinary butchers’ 
meat. 

BORATED FISH—That is, fish preserved by the 
boracic acid process, are being sent freely into our 
markets by the Norwegian curers, and are found to 
be without taint or sign of putrefaction, while the 
flavor is by no means deteriorated. The ltoosen 
process of fish preservation by permeation of the 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


255 


BOR 

tissues by a boracic acid solution under pressure has 
made considerable headway. Public tests of pack¬ 
ages of fish which had been kept in this way for 
from 2 to 3 weeks, and then cooked, resulted in an 
entirely satisfactory manner, showing that the pre¬ 
servative agent is most useful for keeping provisions 
temporarily until they are required for use. Borax 
for Cockroaches —It having been published with 
great positiveness that powdered borax would drive 
away or destroy cockroaches, some correspondents 
answered that they had not found it so successful. 
An experimenter tells them that the borax is a sure 
exterminator, but it is necessary to have it freshly 
powdered. Says he: “I have the borax pulverized 
with a glass roller and never use it as it is bought. 
The roaches do not eat the borax, as many suppose. 
The way it kills them is this: The fine powdered 
borax adheres to the membrane of the feet, and the 
attempt to dislodge it, by striking the feet behind, is 
what kills them. The borax has to be very fine and 
fresh. It can be best sown by hand in the places 
which they frequent.” Borax for Cabbage and 
Onion Odor —In answer to a correspondent asking 
what would allay the smell from boiling green veg¬ 
etables, a steward of a club replies that he has used 
borax in the boiling water for years and that it 
effectually kills the smell, retains the green color 
better than soda, and is perfectly harmless. Borax 
in Soap —It is a useful ingredient, and where soap 
is made in the hotel is worth learning the recipes for 
using. Borax, if bought by the keg, is one of the 
cheapest substances in store. 

BORDELAISE COOKERY — Bordeaux has 
long been renowned as the headquarters of good 
cheer. Paris may have boasted of a larger number 
of first-class restaurants, but the best cooks have 
come from Bordeaux and neighboring towns in 
Gascony, and the district has for centuries been 
known as the strong-hold of la haute cuisine hour - 
geoise. The markets of Bordeaux itself are famed 
for a goodly number of local delicacies. There the 
gourmet can purchase that most succulent little fish, 
the royan, which some epicures declare to be a twin 
brother of the sardine, while others hold that it is a 
cousin-german to a pilchard, and which is caught 
only in autumn. Then there is the ceps, a kind of 
mushroom which is cooked in oil; and Bordelaise 
gourmets further rejoice in the little birds called 
“mftries,” which resemble the Italian “ beccafiche,” 
or fig-peckers. As for the ortolans, they are an im¬ 
portation from Agen and the Pyrenees. Touching 
the cookery of all these good things, some slight 
amount of mystery attaches to the sauce called 
“ Bordelaise.” The most learned authorities in cook¬ 
ery hold that, properly speaking, there is no such 
sauce as Bordelaise at all, and that what is so called 
is only a variety of the “sauce Genevoise,” and ob¬ 
tained its conventional name on account of the Bor¬ 
deaux wine which forms one of its principal ingre¬ 
dients. The culinary doctors, however, differ as to 
the hue of the wine used in making Bordelaise. In 


BOU 

Kettner’s “ Book of the Table ” it is laid down that 
Bordelaise should be made of a good brewn sauce 
—Espagnole is the best—boiled down with a tum¬ 
blerful of red Bordeaux, with one or two shallot? 
chopped small, and with a clove of gallic well 
crushed. Jules Gouffe’s recipe for the same sauce 
prescribes so much Spanish sauce boiled down with 
white Bordeaux wine, either Sauterne or Grave, 
which must be added chopped and blanched shallots 
and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. To add prob¬ 
lem to problem and mystery to mystery, there is a 
well-known dish called e 7 itrecote a la Bordelaise , 
which ostensibly should be fillet steak with Borde ¬ 
laise sauce. It is nothing of the kind—first, because, 
strictly speaking, there is no such thing as Borde¬ 
laise sauce, and, next, because the entrecote in quest¬ 
ion is only a rib-steak grilled in the ordinary way, 
and served with a piece ef cold maitre d'hotel butter, 
into which has been wrought some finely minced 
shallot. It is possible, nevertheless, that entrecotes 
accommodated with cold maitre d'hotel butter were 
popular in the cuisine b^urgeoise, or cookery of pri¬ 
vate life, at Bordeaux, long before they found favor 
in Paris. 

BORDERS OF RICE, ETC.— {See Bo/ dure.) 

BORDURE [en] (Fr.)—Dishes that are served up 
by making on the platter a border of mashed potato, 
rice, fine hominy, Jerusalem artichoke, or any such 
material, and filling the inside with the meat pre¬ 
pared for it, are often named as “ Border of Rice,” 
or whatever it is, “garnished with —” whatever 
ragout or stewed meat. This making the border, 
the leading feature is one of the unintelligible tech¬ 
nicalities; it arose from the possibility of making the 
border an ornamental object, a work of culinary art, 
more to be thought of than the inside filling of meat. 
Border Moulds —There are moulds to be pur¬ 
chased of many fancy shapes, like crowns, tiaras, 
etc., which are but borders to be filled with various 
hot border material, as named above, to be turned 
out like a cake after baking, but more particularly 
are used to make borders of jelly, of fruits in jelly, 
pains , cremes, and salads set with jelly, all to have a 
hollow or well, to be filled with whipped cream, or 
salad, after turning out. 

BOUCIIEE (Fr.) —Mouthful. Petites Bou- 
chees —Little mouthfuls. Bouchees au Salpi^on— 
Two rounds of puff paste, with some savory minced 
meat between, and baked. Bouchees a la Reine— 
Small patties of the vol-au-vent sort, with a spoon¬ 
ful of minced chicken or other meat in sauce for the 
filling. Bouchees a la Moelle —Small patties 
filled with marrow and a savory sauce of cream 
shallots, chives, etc. 

BOUDINS (Fr.)—Puddings of meat. Boudin 
Noir —Blood pudding or sausage. Boudin Blanc— 
White pudding or sausage of veal, bread, etc. 
Boudins a la Richelieu— This kind of hot, white 
pudding of chicken meat is thought to have done 
more to immortalize the name of Richelieu than the 






256 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


BOU 

capture of Mahon. First, it is a paste made of 
breast of chicken, pounded and forced through a 
seive, seasoned, and, with the addition of a pasty 
sauce to make it like dough, it is made out like flat¬ 
tened eggs in shape, and poached. Then made cold, 
part of the inside removed, and the cavity filled with 
a mixture of lightly fried onion, truffles and mush¬ 
rooms with butter and gravy; then the orifice cov¬ 
ered with the chicken paste, and the surface decor¬ 
ated with truffles made to adhere with white of egg. 
These may be made in advance of the meal. When 
wanted, they are simmered in a little broth, not 
enough to cover; made to shine with a little glaze 
over the decorated surface, and dished up with a 
ragout of glazed onions, small quenelles and truffles 
around. Boudins de Lievre a la Richelieu— 
Hare cooked, the meat pounded to a paste with fat 
bacon and aromatics; made into rolls, breaded and 
broiled; served with truffle sauce. Boudins de 
Lapin- White puddings of rabbit; the meat pounded 
through a seive with aromatics and fat bacon, made 
into flattened balls, decorated on top, poached, 
served with mushrooms or truffles in brown sauce. 
Boudin deVeau ala Legumiere —Veal force¬ 
meat prepared as for rabbit boudins; a mould orna¬ 
mentally lined with cut vegetables, the center filled 
with the prepared veal; steamed, served with brown 
sauce. 

BOUILLI (Fr.)—Boiled beef. 

BOUILLON (Fr.)—Beef broth; also the general 
name for stock or soup liquor of any kind of meat. 

BOUILLABAISSE—The provcnyal fish-stew; is 
not a very formidable dish to prepare. The cooks 
of various hotels and restaurants in the southern 
sea-coast towns of the United States make it two 
or three times a week as a matter of routine, and 
are not pinched to the requirement of any particular 
sort of fish for it. The plentiful and almost bone¬ 
less ned-fish (channel bass) is taken for the found¬ 
ation and any others may be mixed in sparingly. 
It is required to have, besides the cut-up fish, oil, 
white wine, garlic, leeks or onions or both, saffron 
or tomatoes, red pepper and herbs. The onions, 
leeks and garlic finely minced are half fried in the 
oil in a broad saucepan; the pieces of fish put in and 
the frying continued with a little gentle shaking 
until the fish is set firm. Then the wine is poured 
in, perhaps a little water or stock, the pepper, herbs, 
salt and saffron, and the stewing goes on for an 
hour without a lid. The liquor or gravy is required 
to be like thick soup, is either boiled down or thick¬ 
ened with roux, well skimmed, served like a stew, 
fish and sauce together. The modern tomato is 
supplanting the ancient saffron in dishes of this 
class, and the Creole bouillabaisse made with to¬ 
matoes is acceptable to everybody. The eminent 
sample of the highest class of culinary literature 
appended here will be found edifying reading. It 
is from the leading journal in the catering trade: 

“ Bouillabaisse is a fish soup for which the Pro- 


BOU 

venial fishing towns are famous, chiefly Marseilles. 
Garlic is essential to it, as to nearly all the Proven¬ 
cal cookery; but those who eschew garlic may still 
obtain from it a good idea of how to concoct a sa¬ 
vory fish soup. Thackeray’s ‘Ballad of Bouilla¬ 
baisse’ has given it a great name in England, but 
most Englishmen find it disappointing. It is a soup 
to be mightily loved or to be abhorred. 

‘This Bouillabaisse a noble dish is— 

A sort of soup or broth or brew 
Or hotch-potch of all sorts of fishes, 

That Greenwich never could outdo; 

Green herbs, red peppers, mussels, saffern, 
Soles, onions, garlic, roach and dace; 

All these you eat at Terre’s tavern 
In that one dish of Bouillabaisse.’ 

“Choose a variety of fish—soles, red mullets, 
dorys, whitings, flounders, perch—avoiding the 
oily sorts, as the herring and the eel. The mussels 
mentioned by Thackeray are a pleasant addition. 
Reckon from half to three-quarters of a pound for 
each person to be served. For every pound of fish 
put a pint of water into a stewpan, a quarter of a 
pint of white wine, and a tablespoonful of oil. 
Then, supposing there are four or five persons to be 
provided for, add two sliced onions, two cloves, 
two bay leaves, two leeks (the white only, but 
chopped), four cloves of garlic, a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley, a little orange or lemon zest, half 
an ounce of chopped capsicums, a teaspoonful of 
saffron (but many tastes crave a whole tablespoon- 
ful), pepper and salt. Into this mix the fish, which 
have been well trimmed as well as cut into pieces, 
and boil them for half an hour. The Marseillaise 
declare for rapid boiling on a brisk fire, pointing 
out that the name ‘Bouillabaisse’ means Bouillon- 
abaisse—that is, broth rapidly reduced by evapora¬ 
tion. This rule, however, is not always followed. 
When the soup is to be served, drain the fish and 
put them on a dish apart, making, spite of Thack¬ 
eray, a pretty good clearance of herbs and spices. 
Strain the soup by itself into a tureen, with, it may 
be, sippets of toast in it. It is more common, but 
not so good, to serve soup and fish together. Kett- 
ner’s recipe for the famous Provencal fish stew (as 
set forth above) differs materially from that adopted 
at the Hotel du Louvre et de la Paix, Marseilles, 
where bouillabaisse is unquestionably cooked to 
perfection. We are able to give this recipe: 

“ ‘Recette de la Bouillabaisse —Poissons: 
Rascasse, vives, teterase, rougets, verdeau tache 
rouge, chapons, macquerau, merlan, anguille de 
mer, langoustes (petites), cigale, galinette, St. 
Pierre. N. B.—Le poisson doit < 5 tre lave et nettoye 
dans l’eau de mer, l’eau douce lui enleve sa finesse 
de gout. 

“ ‘Composition: Huile fine, un pen de cognac, un 
peu de vin blanc, poivre moulu de frais, sel, saffran, 
oignon, bouquet garni, ail tres peu. N. B.-Bouquet 
se compose de laurier, basilic, sauge, thym, fenouil, 
persil. 

“ ‘N. B.-Cuire viviment pendant sept minutes.’ 

“The rascasse, or teterase, is a reddish fish like a 






TIIE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


257 


BOU 

perch, with a similar spiny process on his back. 
This is the prime fish of the bouillabaisse. Of the 
remainder, the little red mullet of Marseilles, the 
mackerel, and the whiting, are well known. The 
galinette is the gurnard; the St. Pierre is our fam¬ 
iliar friend, Mr. John Dory; and the langouste is the 
sea crayfish commonly seen in London fishmongers’ 
shops. It is believed that in the Mediterranean the 
langouste is better than the lobster, which is rarely 
in condition in these southern waters. The an%u lie 
de mer is an eel caught among the rocks of the 
Riviera, and the verdeau is altogether a remarkable 
fish; it is like a salt-water pike in the expression of 
its face and the shape of its body. Its coloring is 
curious. It is of a metallic greenish blue, not so 
vivid as that of the fresh sardine, but very bright, 
and divided like a map by orange lines, which sug¬ 
gest a survival of a sometime mail-clad fish. Any 
piece of alligator-skin will convey the exact idea of 
the shape of these markings. The vive is the weaver 
of English waters.” 

BOURIDE A LA MARSEILLAISE — Fish 
stewed in wine and water with garlic and other 
aromatics; yellow sauce made of pounded garlic, 
lemon juice and egg yolks; the boiling fish liquor 
strained with it, cooked enough to thicken, but not 
curdle; sauce poured over slices of bread, fish served 
with it separately. 

BOURGEOISE (a la )—In family style; indicating 
that the dishes are of medium richness; not costly. 

BRAINS—The brains of all domestic animals are 
eaten and considered a luxury. The brains of ost¬ 
riches and peacocks were among the rare and costly 
delicacies at the famous banquets of the ancients. 
Nearly all kinds obtained in our markets are by a 
harmless fiction classed as calves’ brains, they being 
regarded the best, as they certainly are for a neat 
and compact appearance after cooking in slices; but 
any others do as well for the various chopped-up 
forms. Tubs and barrels full of brains are sent out 
by the pork packers; there are shops in some parts 
of the city where the retailing of brains is a specialty; 
they are put up in ten cents’ portions in wooden 
butter dishes and sold by hundreds daily. Ox brains 
are equally plentiful certain seasons and are easily 

obtainable at all times from the dealers in fancy 
meats who advertise to supply hotels and restau¬ 
rants. Broiled Calf’s Brains —(/)-The brains are 
parboiled, pressed slightly; when cold, sliced, sea¬ 
soned, dipped in flour, broiled and buttered. ( 2 )- 
Calves’ Brains en Brochette— Boiled brains in 
small pieces of even size run upon skewers, sea¬ 
soned, dipped in egg and cracker dust and cooked on 
the gridiron. Must be previously boiled in salted 
water and made cold. Served on the skewers if they 
are of silver or plated. Brain Cakes— Lambs’ or 
sheep’s brains boiled first in milk, chopped, mixed 
with bread crumbs, yolk of eggs, little cream, chop¬ 
ped parsley, salt, pepper; made into flattened cakes, 
breaded and fried; served on a napkin with fried 
parsley. Rabbits’ Brains —In England the brain 


BRA 

of a rabbit is a tit-bit for a lady. Sheer’s Brains, 
Parsley Sauce —Laid in salted water to draw out 
the blood; then boiled about 20 minutes, butter sauce 
with parsley poured over. Scrambled Brains 
and Eggs —Brains boiled 10 minutes, broken up 
with raw eggs and scrambled in frying pan. Brain 
Patties —Scrambled brains with eggs, parsley and 
lemon juice mixed in, soft cooked, filled into vol-au- 
vent or patty cases of puff paste. Sheep’s Brains 
en Caisse —The brains parboiled, cut in pieces, 
filled into little paper cases, buttered, Bechamel sauce 
over, and bread crumbs, and baked. Calves’ 
Brains au Gratin —Same as the last. Calves’ 
Brains a la Proven^ale —Cooked in stock with 
wine, oil, parsley, garlic, onions, pepper, salt; dip¬ 
ped out, sauce reduced to glaze strained over them. 
Calves’ Brains a la Ravigote— Boiled, cut in 
slices and arranged in a circle with Ravigote sauce 
in center. Croquettes of Brains —Brains chop¬ 
ped, made into sort of rich paste with butter, bread 
crumbs, eggs and seasonings, made out in ball or 
roll shapes when cold; breaded and fried. Mari¬ 
nade de Cervelles —Brains soaked in vinegar, 
pepper and salt, dipped in batter, and fried. Brains 
au Beurre Noir —Boiled, pressed, split, dipped in 
flour, fried in butter in a saute pan; butter turns 
brown and frothy, and served with them; garnished 
with peas, capers, or parsley, and lemon. Brains 
for Breakfast— The best way is scrambled with 
eggs and served in deep dishes by spoonfuls to each 
guest. (See Cervelles.) 

BRAISING—The method of cooki ng meat in a 
closed pot with burning charcoal on top as well as 
below. It is nearly imitated in a covered baking 
pan in a closed oven. By braising, the meat is sub¬ 
jected to the action of the steam, heated to an extra 
degree by the fire-covered lid, and is thereby almost 
dissolved while still enveloped in the flavor* of the 
herbs and seasonings in the pot itself. The French 
call the covered pot a brasiere; charcoal is called 
both braise and ckarbon de bois. The Mexicans call 
their charcoal furnace a brasero. In English it is a 
brazier. The South Kensington school of cookery 
has adopted the English words, brazier, braze, braz¬ 
ing and brazed, instead of braise, etc. Probably 
that is as it ought to be. Braised or Brazed 
Meats/— Are, theiefore, meats cooked by brazing, 
with various styles in the adjuncts and sauces. 

BRANDADE DE MORUE (Fr.)—Brandade of 
salt cod. The fish pulled or minced, mixed with 
onions, garlic, saffron, oil, pepper, etc. Is a yellow 
sort of hashed fish. 

BRANDY SNAPS—A dark-brown wafer cake, 
containing molasses and no brandy. The dough is 
placed in balls, but runs out thin in baking; the 
cakes are shaped on a round stick to tubular shape 
while cooling. 

BRAWN—English name for head cheese. Brawn 
is a dish of great antiquity. In olden times it was 
made from the flesh of large boars, which lived in a 






258 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


BRA 


half-wild state, and when put to fatten were strap¬ 
ped and belted tight round the carcass, in order to 
make the flesh become dense and brawny. It came 
to market in rolls two feet long by ten inches in 
diameter, packed in wicker baskets. Brawn 
Sauce —Sauce for head cheese, etc.,—specialty of 
chef of Queen’s College, Oxford, made by mixing i 
tablespoon mustard, y 2 spoon moist sugar, 2 spoons 
oil and 4 of vinegar. 

BRAZIL NUTS—Used for the table, but not 
choice; they are rather too coarse, and being so large 
and heavy are not profitable. But they are used in 
candies, and may take the place of almonds in cakes, 
blanc mange and ice cream. 

BRAZILIAN BREAD—A cake made with Brazil 
nuts; y 2 lb. of the pounded nuts, 12 eggs, 1 lb. sugar, 
4 oz. wheat flour, 2 oz. rice flour. Baked in round 
tins. 

BREAM—A fish often named in French and En¬ 
glish menus. 

BREAD BATTER CAKES—Pancakes or grid¬ 
dle cakes made with soaked bread crumbs and flour, 
etc., as for flour cakes. 

BREAD PUDDINGS-(/)-In cups, made of y 2 
lb. each bread crumbs, suet, sugar and little salt; 
flavored with lemon rind and juice; baked; turned 
out; served with sauce. (2)-Bread crumbs and 
minced suet in a pan; sweetened, then custard, all it 
will absorb; baked. (j)-Slices of bread and butter 
in a pan, with currants, raisins, or any other fruit; 
thin custard to fill up; baked. (^)-Cutup crumbs of 
bread in dice, covered with boiling milk; butter 
stirred in, and eggs; flavored, sweetened, boiled in 
basin, tied down with a floured cloth. (j)-Bread 
and Raisin Pudding —Bread cut in dice, mixed 
with raisins in buttered pan, and bits of butter all 
through; raw custard poured in to cover bread; 
baked. 

BREAD PIE A LA NORMANDY—A pie in a 
deep dish, made of cabbage, bread, sausage meat, an 
egg, salt and pepper—amount of ingredients: the 
white part only of one or two heads cabbage boiled 
and minced, a large stale roll soaked and squeezed 
dry, y 2 lb. sausage meat. Bottom and top crust 
to pie. 

BREAD SAUCE—One pint of broth with an on¬ 
ion boiled in it strained hot over 12 oz. bread crumbs; 
boiled for 10 minutes; 3 tablespoons cream added; 
salt, pepper. Served with roast fowls and par¬ 
tridges. Bread Sauce, Brown— The surplus stuff¬ 
ing of roast turkeys stirred up in the brown gravy, 
passed through a fine strainer; well skimmed. 

BREAD STUFFING—Is made of soaked bread 
squeezed dry, mixed with suet, lard, drippings, or 
sausage fat; flavored with either sage or sage and 
onions, or thyme and other sweet herbs; seasoned 
with salt and pepper, and, if wanted rich, has raw 
yolks added. Used for stuffing fowls, rolled mutton 
and veal, pork, ducks, rolled entrecotes , or steaks, 
tomatoes, egg plants, cucumbers, etc. 


RBO 

BREMEN CHEESE-CAKES—Almond paste, 
12 oz.; sugar, 4 oz.; yolks of eggs, 8; pounded to¬ 
gether, filled in paste-lined patty pans, bit of butter 
on top of each, and baked. 

BRETONNE SAUCE—Chopped onions fried in 
butter; flour added, and broth, salt and pepper; 
strained, and parsley added. A cold Bretonne sauce 
is made of horse-radish, mustard, sugar, salt and 
vinegar stirred together. 

BRIE CHEESE —Frontage de brie. The richest 
of cheeses, flat and thin; each one is in a box by it¬ 
self. It usually turns soft, and runs more or less 
with age, but is then esteemed the most. It is a 
cream cheese and like the cream cheeses made at 
some country dairies, but with better keeping qual¬ 
ities. It is about the same price as Camembert. 

BRILL—A fish of the other side the Atlantic; it 
is like a turbot, flat, and is cooked in the same ways. 
Brill a la Parisienne —Specialty. Is split on the 
black side (back), drained and sponged dry. Laid in 
a baking pan with minced onions and mushrooms, 
salt and sufficiency of white wine, and baked. Com¬ 
plicated garnish of oysters, truffles, fish quenelles, 
tails of crawfish and mushrooms; cooked in wine, 
liquors; all mingled with fish gravy and thickened 
with egg yolks. Built up ornamentally for party. 
Baked Brill (or other fish)—Is soaked for 2 hours 
in olive oil, seasoned with lemon juice, bay leaf, 
salt, pepper, chives; breaded and baked; served with 
puree of tomatoes. 

BRIOCHE—A yellow, rich, light kind of bread, 
very slightly sweetened; a sort of bun or rusk. Made 
by taking light dough and adding butter, eggs and 
little sugar and salt; letting rise again and making in 
shapes; letting rise again before baking. The bakers’ 
shops of different cities show this in various shapes; 
one form is a ring or border of twist, glazed and 
sugared on top. To save eggs, the yellow color is 
given by colorings, and instances have occurred of 
poisoning by chrome yellow used in this way. An- 
nato and saffron are harmless colorings. 

BRIGHTON ROCK CAKES —Made to look 
rough by pulling off the dough with a fork on to the 
baking pan. Dough made of \y 2 lbs. flour, y 2 lb. 
each sugar, butter, citron and currants, y 2 oz. am¬ 
monia dissolved in little milk. Worked together; 
baked in pieces, size of walnuts. 

BRITZELS or BRETZELS — These are the 
hard, brittle bowknots of salted bread eaten in 
nearly all beer saloons on both sides the ocean, and 
as popular now in France as in Germany where they 
originated. Made of raised dough; thrown into 
boiling lye when light, and afterwards baked. In¬ 
gredients only flour, water, yeast and salt; dough 
stiff as for crackers; well broke or kneaded. Boiling 
lye is y 2 lb. potash in 10 gls. water. Britzels thrown 
in sink at first, then rise, and are skimmed out, 
salted over, and baked. 

BROAD BEANS—A kind of bean (extensively 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


259 


BRO 

grown and used in England) which grows on a stalk 
4 or 5 feet high, and is cultivated in rows like Indian 
corn. The beans are produced in thumb-like pods; 
iire gathered green; boiled and served with parsley- 
and-butter sauce. They are somewhat coarse and 
•do not figure as an adjunct in fine dishes. 

BROCCOLI—A green sort of cauliflower; cooked 
like cabbage, or pickled. The importance of the 
broccoli-growing industry is shown by the fact that 
the acreage under cultivation in the Penzance dis¬ 
trict is estimated at i,ooo, each acre being supposed 
to contain about 10,000 broccoli—that is, for the dis¬ 
trict, a rough total of 10,000,000 broccoli. 

BROCHET (Fr.)—Pike; a fish. 

BROCHETTE (Fr.)—A small spit; a skewer. 
Liver a la Brochette —Is cut in small thin slices 
and strung on a skewer with slices of bacon be¬ 
tween, then broiled or fried. Oysters, kidneys, etc., 
in similar fashion. 

BROMA—Cocoa or chocolate in powder. 

BROWN BETTY—An apple pudding. (See 
apples?) 

BROWN BREAD — May be of two or more 
kinds. In this country by brown bread is usually 
understood a mixture of cornmeal, rye, flour, gra¬ 
ham, and, perhaps, white flour; salted, slightly 
sweetened with molasses and raised either with 
yeast or baking powder; either steamed or baked 
for several hours. In England, the brown bread 
served almost invariably with fish and oysters is 
made of unbolted wheat flour; here called graham 
bread. 

BRL T XOISE SOUP—Clear soup with vegetables 
and green peas. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS —The small cabbages 
which sprout from cabbage stalks after the heads 
have been cut off. This vegetable belongs to all 
■dishes technically designated a la Flamande , or 
Flemish style. The sprouts are very little known 
in the United States, perhaps because the best way 
of preserving cabbage through the winter has been 
found to be pulling up roots and all and burying 
upside down in banks of earth. If the stalks are 
allowed to remain and continue growing with favor¬ 
able weather, numerous small heads from the size 
of olives to that of apples will form upon them, 
those are Brussels sprouts. 

BUBBLE AND SQUEAK—An English stand¬ 
ing dish. It is cold beef and cabbage fried together; 
sliced beef with fat or drippings first in the pan, 
then the cold cooked cabbage fried in the beef fat. 
While this seems to have been the original homely 
dish, and corned beef was considered better for the 
purpose than fresh, various professional cooks and 
writers have undertaken to improve it by adding 
.sauces or various vegetables, evidently without any 
warrant for it, for the name itself is enough to indi¬ 
cate that it is a dish of poor, but honest origin and 
jnot adapted to become high-toned. 


BUN 

BUCKWHEAT—Kind of grain that makes a 
gray flour like rye or poor wheat flour, and easily 
adulterated. Can be made into biscuits; principally 
used in making griddle cakes. Buckwheat Cakes 
—This popular breakfast luxury it is popularly sup¬ 
posed cannot be learned from printed recipes. It is 
among the standing jokes of the clubs that their 
chefs can never succeed in making buckwheat cakes 
to perfection, and colored women cooks have to be 
employed for that specialty. These women raise 
the first batch of batter with yeast, then let it turn 
sour by keeping some over from day to day, adding 
more flour and correcting the sourness with soda. 
Some syrup, salt and melted lard are added, and 
thin cakes baked on a greased griddle. 

BUFFALO—Nearly extinct now, but a few years 
ago was as plentiful in the West as beef. The meat 
has the appearance of beef, coarser grained, but 
lacks the flavor; it tasts like elk. 

BUFFALO-FISH—This name is never seen in a 
bill of fare, which is somewhat singular since the 
fish is eaten probably by tons daily down the entire 
length of the Ohio and Mississippi and tributary 
rivers; it divides the territory with the catfish. It is a 
carp which goes by this name; it attains to a weight 
of 20 pounds, but is commonly met with about half 
that size. The Buffalo has a good, capacious mouth 
and can take a bait as well as a catfish. There is, 
however, another fish of similar appearance, with 
large scales, called the sucker, which is not nearly 
as good a fish; its snout is elongated and mouth small; 
it is bony and watery when cooked. The Buffalo, 
on the contrary, is excellent boiled whole or fried in 
slices. A whole baked or barbecued Buffalo is a 
favorite fish at the New Orleans lunch houses where 
sea fish can be had just as well and as cheap. (See 
carp?) 

BULLOCKS’ BLOOD BON-BONS—At the 
great London exhibition of 1851, M. Brochieri ex¬ 
hibited and sold delicious candies, cakes, patties and 
bon-bons of bullocks’ blood, rivalling the famous 
marrons glaces of the cor/fseries of the Boulevards, 
to show the food possibilities which lie in the prin¬ 
cipal ingredient of the ancient black pudding. 

BUISSON (Fr.)—Bush. A buisson of lobsters 
(de homards ) is a pyramid of red lobster on a green 
bush. A buisson of shrimps (crevettes) a smaller 
bush or pyramid of similar style. There are also 
pieces no-named which are pyramid shapes of cold 
butter stuck over with pealed shrimps or prawns, 
interspersed with cress or parsley. 

BUNS—A bun is a sweet roll, raised with yeast 
like ordinary bread, though there are at least a score 
of different names, shapes and qualities, and quite a 
number of people follow the Scotch fashion of call¬ 
ing all sorts of soft rolls, French rolls, petitspains, 
rusks or whatever else buns, whether sweet or not, 
which tends to a confusion of names. However, as 
said above, buns are sweet rolls not so rich as cakes, 
and one of the best is the Hot Cross Bun, specially 





260 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


BUR 

made for Good Friday and eaten by some people for 
the sake of keeping' up an old custom, and by more 
because the buns are good. A good bun can be made 
by any person by taking light bread dough and 
working into it some butter, sugar, spice or extracts, 
raisins, currants and candied peel, and yolks of eggs. 
The fruit is not always put in, and not essential, nor 
need there be much of either of the other ingredients; 
it is essential, however, to have good, lively, well- 
raised dough. The buns are but balls of the sweet¬ 
ened dough set to rise, then baked and egged and 
sugared over. If to be “cross buns,” the cross is 
made by pushing down a knife nearly to the bottom 
of each bun while it is rising, when about half light. 
Other kinds of buns can be found described under 
the proper letters. 

BURR OAK CIDER—Trade name for imitation 
cider, made of 8 oz. tartaric acid, 22 lbs. brown sugar 
in a barrel of water (about 40 gls.), and some baker’s 
stock yeast, or strong hop yeast, to start a fermenta¬ 
tion. It tastes sufficiently like cider to sell in some 
places in immense quantities, to the great profit of 
the vendors. Is ready for use in 2 days after making 
if moderately warm. 

BURTA—Mashed potatoes as served in India. 
A large green pepper and six spring onions minced 
very finely, the juice of a lemon squeezed over them 
on a saucer. A dozen boiled potatoes mashed, and 
the onions and pepper mixed in, with oil or butters 
and salt. Made in shape; garnished with crayfish 
and parsley. 

BUTTER—It is found that, no matter how fresh 
butter may be or well made, if it is white it is not 
satisfactory for table use. The color of butter is af¬ 
fected by the feed of the cows, green grass and 
clover making it yellow; consequently winter butter 
is apt to be white, but may be as good otherwise. 
The most satisfactory for hotel use is creamery but¬ 
ter; it is always alike, being colored artificially, 
though probably less at some seasons than others. 
Then it is made in immense quantities at once and is 
uniform in quality. Certain brands of creamery are 
always scarce because of the demand regardless of 
price. 

BUTTER IMITATIONS—A number of patents 
have been taken out for making artificial butter, or 
imitations. The first was by a French chemist, 
Hippolyte Mege, in 1870. He was employed on the 
Imperial farm at Vincennes, and invented Oleo¬ 
margarine, which is based on the particular ob¬ 
servation that cooked fat is granulated, therefore 
hard and brittle; butter is not, and therefore butter 
could be made out of beef fat, not cooked, but worked 
at the ordinary temperature of the cow’s body. That 
is what oleomargarine is yet. The fat is made warm 
in steam tanks, pressed by hydraulic pressure which 
divides it into stearine, which remains in the sacks, 
and butter oil, which is pressed out, and this is 
churned either with milk for present use, the milk 
improving the flavor, or with water if long keeping 


BUT 

is the object in view. There are various details, 
such as the dividing the butter oil into fine particles 
ready for the churning with milk, but in substance 
that is all there is in oleomargarine. If cleanly made 
it is as good as ordinary butter. The outcry against 
it has been from the makers of real butter. The only 
objection really sound was the selling a cheaply pro¬ 
duced article at the high price of best butter by pass¬ 
ing it off as butter; but that has been pretty effectually 
stopped, and “margarine,” as the name now is, goes 
on its own merits, and the trade in it is constantly in¬ 
creasing. Butterine was different, being a mix¬ 
ture of lard and butter; ostensibly, but extreme un¬ 
certainty may well be supposed to exist in the com¬ 
position of it when the following patents are consi¬ 
dered. Nut Oil Butter— A patent was taken out in 
1876 for making artificial butter from oleine, marga¬ 
rine from fruit and vegetable nuts, lactic acid and' 
loppered milk. “Edible Fat,” with chemicals;, 
patent 1S77. Heating suet at 140, with salt, saltpeter, 
borax, boracic acid, salycilic acids, withdrawing the 
separated fat and incorporating therewith a second 
and smaller charge of the above chemicals, with the. 
addition of benzoic acid. Patent for Preserving 
Real Butter (1SS0) by incorporating with it meta- 
phosphoric acid. Oleo-Soap Butter —Patent 1SS1 
for adding alkali to oleomargarine, “agitating the 
mixture until partial saponification ensues, then add¬ 
ing butyric acid.” Cotton Seed Butter —Patent. 
1SS2 for combination of beef-suet oil, cotton-seed oil, 
beef-stearine and slippery elm bark. Lard and 
Cotton-Oil BuTTER-Patent 1SS2 for combination of 
lard oil and cotton-seed oil, “deodorized and purified 
by slippery elm bark and beef stearine.” Cocoanut 
and Cotton-Oil Butter— Patent 1882 for combina¬ 
tion of vegetable stearine from nut or cotton oil 
pressed cold, with oleomargarine, and churning. 
Oleo, Lard and Aqua Fortis Butter —Patent 
1S82 for combination of oleomargarine and leaf lard, 
subjected to washing action in water, borax and 
nitric acid; then re-washed and churned. The Real. 
Butterine— Patent 1SS2 for artificial butter made- 
by minutely dividing leaf lard, melting, covering, 
salting down for 3 days, mixing it with lukewarm, 
buttermilk, clarified tallow and little pepsin; adding 
half its weight of real butter, and working in cold 
water. Cotton-Oil and Flour-Paste Butter— 
Called “Oleard.” Patent 1882; “vegetable oil in 
combination with cooked farinaceous flour,” the oil 
treated with a solution of caustic soda. Making 
Two Pounds out of One— Patent 1SS6 for putting 
into a churn S lbs. butter, 1 gallon sweet milk, 1 oz. 
liquid rennet, 25 grains (troy) of nitrate of potash,. 
1 oz. sugar, y 2 teaspoon of butter-coloring; churning 
all, and working. AWc-Milk and butter warm 
can be mingled by stirring together gradually; the 
additions specified are to make the combination hold 
when cold.—Notwithstanding the possibilities out¬ 
lined in these patents, there is very little more than 
a local practice of the methods. Oleomargarine is- 
the same as Mege invented in 1S70, viz.: beef fat 












THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


261 


BUT 

melted or cooked at 150 degrees; the oil pressed out 
and churned with milk. Butterine is a mixture of 
the above with leaf lard salted, colored and churned, 
the milk it is churned with giving the butter flavor. 
State commissioners have reported favorably upon 
the products of the large factories where fresh fat 
from the slaughter-houses is of necessity the mate¬ 
rial used. To Distinguish Butterine —The fol¬ 
lowing simple method has been suggested for ap¬ 
proximately judging of the purity of a specimen of 
butter: Melt the butter, and then cool it as rapidly 
as possible by means of some ice-cylinder put into 
it. Lard, which is a copious constituent of butterine, 
will sink to the bottom, and any genuine butter 
will rise, while there will be a distinctly visible zone 
or line of contact between the two. Butter to 
Keep Fresh —Washing in cold water till free from 
buttermilk, salt and sugar added in equal quantities, 
and packed in jars and kept cold it will keep fresh 
for a year. A Test for Butter —There is a qual¬ 
itative test for butter so simple that any housewife 
can put it into successful practice. A clean piece of 
white paper is smeared with the suspected butter. 
The paper is then rolled up and set on fire. If the 
butter is pure the smell of the burning paper is 
rather pleasant; but the odor is distinctly tallow if 
the “butter” is made up wholly or in part of animal 
fats. 

BUTTER-BALL DUCK—A wild duck a little 
larger than a teal; good quality; generally very fat; 
suitable for broiling, and often takes the place of teal. 
In season November, December, January and Feb¬ 
ruary. 

BUTTER BEANS—Lima beans. 

BUTTER-FISH —Small fish, fried like small 
trout or whitebait. 

BUTTER PIE—A bakery specialty; a flour and 
butter custard made without eggs; baked in a crust. 

BUTTER ROLLS—A variety of French bread; 
rolls with butter worked in the dough; made flat to 
split, and butter spread inside. Served hot. 

BUTTER SCOTCH—Taffy, a brown kind of 
candy; made by boiling moist sugar and butter to¬ 
gether to the crack, and cooling in sheets in shallow 
pans. Also a sweet cake sold at some shops. 

BUTTERED APPLES—Quartered apples baked 
with butter and sugar; served on fried bread. 

BUTTERED EGGS—Eggs soft scrambled in a 
saucepan, set in a pan of boiling water, with plenty 
of butter. 

BUTTER NUT—Kind of walnut, longer in shape 
and harder shell than the black walnut. Also the 
souari nut of Demerara. 

BUTTS OF BEEF—One of the new cuts of the 
packing houses; the buttock cut in two or three; 
boneless, good for second-rate steaks, and lower in 
price than choice loins. 


CAB 

C. 

CABARET— (Fr.)—A wine shop. 

CABBAGE—Most ancient of vegetables used for 
food and still popular; classed among the most nu¬ 
tritious, containing nitrogen, the same as meat, 
which causes its strong odor. Odor of Boiling 
Cabbage —Three remedies which prevent the offen¬ 
sive smell are: (/)-borax in the water, (2)-a piece of 
bread tied up in muslin and boiled with it, (y)-a 
large lump of charcoal tied up and boiled with it. 
Bubble and Squeak —Is a dish of fried cabbage 
and beef. Cabbage au Gratin— Boiled cabbage 
in layers with grated cheese and butter, pepper and 
salt, with breadcrumbs or cracker dust on top; 
baked. Cabbage a la Milanaise —Cooked cab¬ 
bage in a dish, thin broiled ham on top, butter sauce 
poured over, grated cheese for top crust, baked. 
Cabbage Sprouts with Eggs —The young sprouts 
from cabbage stalks boiled; an omelet laid flat on 
dipped toast and cabbage sprouts on top of omelet. 
Cabbage Stewed with Butter —Young cabbage 
quartered and blanched, cut small and fried in but¬ 
ter, broth added, stewed down, little white sauce or 
flour to finish. Cabbage a la St. Denis —Stuffed 
with sausage meat, wrapped with slices of fat pork, 
stewed with flavoring of sherry in broth, sauce 
poured over cabbage when served. Paupiettes of 
Cabbage a la Milanaise — Cabbage leaves 
blanched, sausage meat, parboiled rice shallots and 
parsley mixed and rolled up three leaves thick; sim¬ 
mered in saucepan close packed for an hour. Cab¬ 
bage a la Navarraise —Stewed in butter and 
broth flavored with garlic, cloves, etc. Choux 
Farcis —Stuffed with sausage meat, same as St* 
Denis. Choux en Surprise —Cabbage stuffed with 
chestnuts. Creamed Cabbage —Boiled, drained, 
stirred up in a saucepan with butter and cream. 
Cabbage a la Lilloise —Fried cabbage, put in 
raw; chopped, with onion and butter. Boiled^ 
Cabbage and Bacon —Quarters of summer cabbage 
boiled green and drained, a slice of bacon on each. 
Cabbage a l’Allemande —Boiled, drained, chop¬ 
ped, boiled bacon cut in dice mixed with it and 
little white sauce. Baked Cabbage— Cooked cab¬ 
bage minced, in layers with minced cold meat in a 
dish lined with crumbs, and bacon on top; to be 
turned out whole. Red Cabbage with Sausages 
—Stewed with broth and vinegar; boiled sausages 
around in the dish. Red Cabbage a la Flamande 
—Fried salt pork, shredded cabbage and sliced 
apples together, broth and brandy added, and fin¬ 
ished in covered pan in the oven. Pickled Cab¬ 
bage —White is generally colored yellow with tur¬ 
meric; red cabbage is usually preferred for pickling. 
Cabbage Salad or Cold Slaw —(/) Plain white 
solid cabbage shaved as fine as hay, seasoned with 
salt, vinegar, etc.; generally served with oysters. 
(2)-Chopped cabbage and apples, salt, vinegar, 
pepper and capers. Hot Slaw— Shaved cabbage 
in hot creamy sauce of vinegar, water, butter, eggs* 






262 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CAB 

salt, sugar; scalded, not boiled. Sauerkraut— 
Shaved cabbage in layers in a barrel with salt be¬ 
tween, pressed down and kept till it becomes sour. 
Cabbage Soups — Consomme Paysanne contains 
shred cabbage; and vegetable soup with a salt pork 
or corned beef seasoning and large proportion of 
cabbage. Cabbage to keep —Burying in a bank 
of earth, heads downwards and stalks and roots left 
on, covered with a foot of earth, is found to be the 
best way. Cabbage as a Panacea —Hippocrates 
had a peculiar affection for cabbage. Should one 
of his patients be seized with a violent colic, he at 
once prescribed a dish of boiled cabbage with salt. 
Erasistratus looked upon it as a sovereign remedy 
against paralysis. Pythagoras and several other 
learned philosophers wrote books in which they 
celebrated the marvelous virtues of the cabbage. 

C ABILLAUD (Fr.)-Codfish. 

CABBAGE PALM or PALM CABBAGE— 
Edible young leaves and heart of a palm tree which 
grows in Florida and southward. 

CABINET PUDDING—A mould or pan nearly 
tilled with slices of cake, wi h sultana raisins and 
cut citron between the layers; a custard mixture of 
eggs and milk poured over; baked. Steamed Cab¬ 
inet Pudding —A mould ornamentally lined with 
raisins and citron and soft butter; tilled with sponge 
cake, macaroons and custard; steamed and turned 
out whole. Cold Cabinet Pudding —A charlotte 
russe made with lady fingers and small macaroons 
lining a mould, filled up with yellow custard con¬ 
taining gelatine to set it. 

CACTUS LEAVES CANDIED—The thick, 
fleshy leaves of a cactus, crystallized in sugar, forms 
one of the articles of export from Mexico. 

CACAO—The cacao (pronounced ka-ka'-o) bean 
is the fruit of the cacao tree, a native of Mexico, 
but now cultivated in all tropical countries. It is a 
small tree, from 16 to 18 feet high, and the seeds 
are the parts used for food. They are contained in 
a large-pointed oval pod, from 6 in. to io in. long. 
This pod contains much sweet and whitish pulp, 
and from 50 to 100 seeds, or beans as they are usually 
called. When dried and roasted, and separated 
from the husk, the beans form cocoa; chocolate is 
prepared by grinding the roasted beans with sugar 
and flavoring essences and then pressing the paste 
thus made into cakes. 

CAERPHILLY CHEESE—A special kind pro¬ 
duced in Wales. 

CAFE (Fr.)—Coffee; also coffee house. Cafe au 
Lait —Boiled milk and coffee in equal parts, little 
cream. Cafe Noik —Strongest black coffee, and 
sugar to taste. Cafe GLOKiA-Good bright breakfast 
coffee and cognac, equal quantities, with sugar; this 
can be set on fire with brandy on top. Cafe Gra- 
nito —Frozen coffee well sweetened; no additions 
but sugar, served semi-fluid in small cups. Liqueur 
de Cafe —Strong, clear coffee, strong sugar syrup, 
and spirit, equal parts. Ratafia de Cafe —A 


CAL 

pound of ground coffee steeped ten days in a quart 
of spirit, strained, added to a quart each of syrup 
and water, flavored with spices and almonds. Ca» e 
a la Creme Frappe— Cafe au lait set in ice till 
half frozen; better when made with cream in the 
coffee, instead of milk. Souffle au Cafe —Frangi- 
pane with white of eggs, flavored with coffee, baked 
in souffle cases. Souffle au Cafe Vierge. —The 
same with green coffee flavor. Creme de Cafe— 
Coffee ice cream. 

CAILLES (Fr.)—Quails. 

CAISSES (Fr.)—Little cases of paper or wafer 
paste, size of patty pans or tumb ers and of 
various shapes, for serving souffles and small meats, 
also for ices, as biscuits glaces. 

CAKES—Various kinds may be found mentioned 
under their respective letters. 

CALLIES — Dealers’ name for large deep-sea 
oysters, set apart for cooking purposes; smaller 
ones being better to serve raw. 

CALIPASH—The meat attached to the back or 
upper shell of the turtle. 

CALIPEE—The meat attached to the belly or 
lower shell of the turtle. In consequence of the 
prominence given to turtle by its adoption at the 
stupendous civic banquets in London as the leading 
luxury for the past 150 j^ears, a knowledge of the 
parts and ways of cooking is essential to a gastro¬ 
nomic education. ( See turtle .) 

CALF’S BRAINS—See brains. 

CALF’S EARS—Are cooked separate from the 
head in various ways. Oreilles de Veau Farcis 
—Calf’s ears first boiled tender, stuffed with any 
savory stuffing of minced bacon, onions and bread, 
or sausage meat and bread, or chicken stuffing, 
breaded and fried. Oreilles de Veau en Mari¬ 
nade —Boiled tender, steeped in seasoned vinegar, 
drained, dipped in batter and fried. Oreilles de 
Veau aux Champignons —Calf’s ears boiled ten¬ 
ter, served in a brown sauce with mushrooms, and 
yolks of eggs for garnish. Calf’s Ears Stuffed, 
Tomato Sauce —Simmered tender in stock with 
vinegar, stuffed as above, breaded and fried, served 
with tomato sauce, and parsley and lemons for gai^ 
nish. Calf’s Ears a la Lyonnaise —Cooked ears 
cut in shreds; fried onions in gravy and the calf’s 
ears mixed in. Calf’s Ears a la Bechamel— 
Ears cut off deeply, cere removed with round cutter, 
boiled an hour in milk and water, stuffed with veal 
forcemeat, tied, simmered in seasoned broth; taken 
up, sauce strained and thickened, mushrooms and 
parsley added. Oreilles de Veau a la Napoli - 
taine —Stuffed with bread and cheese stuffing, with 
butter and yolks, breaded and fried. 

CALF’S HEAD—It is useless if skinned as many 
country butchers send it in after, perhaps, repeated 
requests. The head can be cleaned by scalding, 
same as a pig, and scraping. A little lye, ashes or 
soda in the water assists the operation. The head 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


203 


CAL 

after being scraped is singed, then beginning at the 
throat the skin and meat is all taken off the bones 
by close cutting under with the point of a knife, and 
next the tongue taken out, the head split and brains 
taken out. Calk’s Head Boiled— Cooked in sea¬ 
soned stock about an hour or more, taken up, pressed 
between dishes; when cold cut to shapes and served 
in various ways. Calf’s Head a la Poulette— 
Cream-colored sauce with mushrooms, calf’s head 
sliced in it, garnished. Calf’s Head a la Mene- 
hould —Slices dipped in thick sauce ( Duxelles ), 
then in cracker dust, then in egg and dust again, 
and baked or fried. Tete de Veau en Moule— 
Calf’s head minced, layers in a mould with minced 
ham between, thick gravy to moisten, baked, turned 
out whole; the mould is lined with bread crumbs 
and butter. Tete de Veau a la Financiere— 
Square pieces or slices with financiere garnish of 
mushrooms, wine, etc. Calf’s Head a l’Itali- 
enne —Boiled, sliced, with Italian sauce poured 
over. Calf’s Head a la Destiliere —Pieces in 
center of dish, brain sliced on top, tongue cut in 
dice, sliced gherkins, button mushrooms in espa- 
gnole and wine sauce poured over. Calf’s Head 
with Eggs —Slices in mushroom sauce garnished 
with an egg. round-fried like a fritter, in plenty of 
oil or lard. Calf’s Head a la Tortue —The cold 
pressed head cut in squares, made hot in rich 
gravy with little tomato sauce, wine, mushrooms, 
forcemeat balls, hard egg yolks, olives, etc. Calf’s 
Head Soup —A light-colored soup having chopped 
green vegetables, seasoned with herbs, half-fried 
onions, anchovy essence, the calf’s head cut in dice 
in it. Mock Turtle Soup, Clear —Brown con¬ 
somme, with cubes of pressed calf’s head, egg balls 
and parsley. Mock Turtle Liee, or Thick — 
Brown, made with calf’s head and finished same as 
turtle soup. Turban de Tete de V eau— Pieces of 
cooked and pressed calf’s head, made hot in any 
sauce or ragout, dished up in crown shape, perhaps 
on a foundation of bread or rice (see illustration on 
page 117), and the sauce poured over; the name is 
according to the sauce. Cali-’s Head Cheese— 
Similar to pig’s head cheese or brawn. 

CALF’S FEET—Are freed from bones after 
cooking, cut up and fricasseed, white or brown; or 
served with any of the well-known sauces, such as 
tomato, hollandaise, parsley, piquante, caper, etc. 
Calf’s Foot Soup —A cream soup of boiled calves’ 
feet, celery and other vegetables, cream, white wine 
and raw yolks for final thickening. Calf’s Foot 
Jelly— Nearly all wine and other table jellies and 
creams for sweet dinner and ball supper dishes 
were formerly made by boiling down calves’ feet to 
a jelly, then sweetening, flavoring, clarifying and 
filtering it. One foot makes one quart of jelly. A 
shorter method is now to use the prepared gelatine. 
Calves’ feet enrich soup stocks, and are good for 
making aspic jelly. 

CALF’S LIVER—See liver. 

CALF’S SWEETBREADS—See sweetbreads. 


CAN 

CALF’S TAIL SOUP—White soup; the tails in 
short pieces stewed, vegetables, mushrooms, slice 
of bacon, inch of lemon rind in the strained stock, 
corn starch, milk, nutmeg, glass white wine, pieces 
of calves’ tails added last. 

CAMEMBERT -One of the favorite cheeses for 
recherche dinners; can be bought of the importing 
grocers; is a flat-shaped, “salt-soft” cheese of only a 
few pounds’ weight; costs about double the price of 
ordinary cheese. Where they are made Camemberts 
are dried for a month in a carefully constructed room 
with a peculiar system of ventilation. They are then 
ripened for about the same length of time in a cur¬ 
ing cellar, called a cave de perfection, where they are 
watched and treated with the greatest care. The 
formation of the white mould and the development 
of the red spots on their surface are observed with 
great anxiety, and every little cheese is turned or 
left according to circumstances. 

CANAPES—Literally couches, sofas, but in cul¬ 
inary language pieces of toast or bread with some¬ 
thing spread upon them. Canapes aux Anchois— 
Chopped anchovies and eggs on fried bread. Can¬ 
apes au Fromage —Cheese melted in the oven on 
fried bread. Canapes a la Prince de Galles— 
Mixture of anchovies, ham, truffles, gherkins, oil and 
vinegar in small hollowed rolls, decorated with aspic 
mayonnaise. Canapes a la Windsor —Chicken, 
ham, cheese, anchovies, butter, cayenne, salt, 
pounded to a paste together, passed through aseive, 
spread on fried bread, crumbs on top; baked a few 
minutes. Canapes of Sardines —Strips of fried 
bread spread with sardine butter made by pounding 
sardines with hard-boiled yolks and butter, mixed 
with parsley, mustard, etc.; a boneless, half sardine 
on each one; served hot. Canapes of Shrimps— 
Fried rounds of bread spread with thick shrimp 
sauce and picked shrimps enough to cover the sauce. 
Canapes de Volaille— Chicken canapes or sand¬ 
wiches with buttered bread, shred lettuce, mayon¬ 
naise sauce on the lettuce, breast of chicken and 
fillets of anchovy next, and bread on top. 

CANARY YELLOW—Chrome yellow; poison¬ 
ous coloring. Its use by bakers is forbidden by law. 

CANARDS (Fr.)—Ducks. 

CANDIED YAMS—The large, sweet potatoes 
called yams are boiled, sliced, laid in a pan with 
sugar, butter, very little water and nutmeg, and 
slowly baked. Served hot for dinner with the veg¬ 
etables. 

CANDIED FRUITS —(See cryslalized fruits.') 

CANETONS (Fr.)—Ducks. Usually applied to 
tame ducks. Canard Sauvage— Wild duck. 

CANE SYRUP AND SUGAR—Meaning the 
product of the sugar cane; not sorghum, nor beet 
sugar, nor glucose, nor maple. 

CANDLE-FISH—A long, eel-like fish of the ex¬ 
treme north, eatable, oily; when dried is burned like 
a candle. 





2G4 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CAN 

CANNEBERGES (Fr.)— Cranberries. 

CANNELONS (Fr.)—Canes; fried rolls of puff 
paste little larger than a finger, having a pith of 
either minced meat or of jam inside. Cannelons 
Baked —Are brushed over with egg and water be¬ 
fore baking. Note -Fried cannelons are now usually 
called rissoles. 

CANNED MEATS—Are robbed of their juices 
when put up in the factories; the natural gravies are 
taken to make meat extracts and canned soups, and 
replaced with water in the canned meats. 

CANNED GOODS—There is the utmost need 
for the hotel buyer to post himself early on the sub¬ 
ject of canned goods. The margins are sometimes 
as great in proportion to prices as in the case of 
wines. Some merchants will make astonishingly 
low prices for ordinary provisions and groceries if 
the buyer will let them supply the canned goods at 
list prices. This is because of the great variations 
of quality of these goods and also the fluctuations in 
prices dependent upon the fruit or vegetable harvest 
being good, or otherwise. Goods which retail or¬ 
dinarily at 20 cents a can may often be bought by 
the case at 5 or 6 cents, and generally at 10 or 12. 
Among the fine goods there are grades according to 
strength of syrup and selection of fruit. There are 
peas which are only dried peas cooked and canned, 
and others, the finest green June peas, better than if 
fresh bought in market; but the inexperienced may 
have to pay as much for one as the other. And the 
hotel buyer should get everything in gallon cans 
and kegs, as near as possible, not pay for loads of 
small bottles, jars and labels. 

CANNING—There are two principal methods; 
one is to fill the cans with raw goods, like the 
French peas, with sufficient water and perhaps some 
coloring agent to green them; solder them tight, and 
throw them into a boiling kettle where they remain 
for 3 or 4 hours. The other way is commonly known, 
consisting in cooking the cans of vegetables and 
fruit in steam closets, there being an aperture in the 
top of each can which is closed up with solder after 
the contents are cooked and while still hot. 

CANTELOUPES—The nutmeg melon. Plenti¬ 
ful in summer and fall and used by the wagon load 
in our hotels; kept on ice, washed, dried, cut in 
halves, broken ice strewed over; served a half to 
each person, unless very large, when a quarter may 
be enough. Eaten with salt and pepper. 

CANTERBURY PUDDINGS —Individual, in 
cups. Very rich pound cake mixture of 2 oz. each 
butter, sugar and flour, 2 eggs whipped light, lemon 
rind to flavor; baked in buttered cups; wine or brandy 
sauce. 

CANTON GINGER—Preserved ginger root, a 
sort of candy; especially valuable in fruit ice-creams, 
ginger-ice, tutti-frutti, choice small cakes, steamed 
puddings and wherever citron is used. It has an 
agreeable pungency. It comes principally from Chy- 


CAN 

loong’s factory in Canton; costs here from 30 to40c. 
per pound. “ Old Chyloong shows with pride how 
the root is brought to him and put through all the 
processes. It is scraped, soaked in water for five 
days, picked with forks, boiled in water, soaked for 
two days in rice-flour water, boiled again, soaked in 
lime water, boiled some more and finally boiled with 
its equal weight of brown sugar and put up in the 
round ginger jars sacred to high art, young ladies 
and the Dusantes mantlepiece. The dried ginger 
goes through all these processes, and is then dried 
in the sun. The mixed Cantonese preserves, con¬ 
taining bits of citron, sugar-cane, melon rinds, cum- 
quats and persimmons, are made at the same place,, 
and Chyloong is a purveyor as widely known to the 
civilized world as Crossed Blackwell, and no doubt 
a millionaire.” 

CANTON BUNS—Sweet cakes made of lb. 
each butter and sugar, 2 eggs, ^ oz. ammonia, 
cup milk, 1% lbs. flour; in balls dipped in egg on top 
and little rough lumps sugar and an almond; baked. 

CANVAS-BACK DUCK —“Mr. Dion Bouci- 
cault recently sent Mr. Irving a present of American 
dainties, which where served at some supper parties 
which have been given in the beefsteak room at the 
Lyceum after the performance. Mr. Irving’s 
opinion having been required, he cabled to the 
doner: ‘Our verdict is: perfect. Perfect terrapin, 
the finest soup known. Canvas-back ducks 
ethereal.’ A celebrated novelist who visited the 
States a few years ago, gave up all engagements in 
order to dine with a gourmet twelve days running 
on canvas-back ducks and champagne. It is 
strange that the canvas-back duck can never be 
caught alive. A prominent caterer of New York 
has been trying for three years to execute a com¬ 
mission of Lord Tarbets’, second son of the Duke 
of Sutherland, who sent over for two pairs of live 
canvas-backs. There is a standing offer of $50 a 
pair for them, but as yet no one has got it. It is 
impossible to net them as you do other ducks; the 
only chance is to wound one badly enough to cap¬ 
ture him, but not severely enough to kill him. 
Though many persons annually enjoy the sport of 
shooting canvas-back ducks, the joy of Maryland 
sportsmen and the pride of Baltimore epicures, few 
have probably thought of the summer homes of the 
ducks, where the vacancies in their number, caused 
by the industry of winter fowlers, are filled by¬ 
young birds. The ducks are found along the At¬ 
lantic coast as far north as Canada, but they migrate 
in the greatest numbers in the fall to the Chesa¬ 
peake Bay and its tributaries, where they find their 
favorite food, the valuneua, or wild celery, a fresh¬ 
water plant, whose roots they feed upon, and which 
gives them the juiciness and peculiar flavor which 
distinguishes them from other ducks and atones for 
their comparative lack of bright plumage. They 
follow winter down the Atlantic coast, and remain 
in the Chesapeake waters dnring the winter 
months. When the spring opening occurs, they 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


265 


CAN 

wing- their way across the country in a north-west¬ 
ward direction, and spend the summer months 
breeding and raising their young in the neighbor¬ 
hood of the cool waters of the upper Rocky Moun¬ 
tain system, and in all the far countries north of the 
fiftieth degree, north latitude. There alone can 
their eggs be obtained. A well-known restaurateur 
of this city conceived the idea of raising canvas- 
back ducks in Baltimore, lie procured two crippled 
birds — a male and female — but his experiments 
were unsuccessful, as the birds pined for the cool 
air of the British American forests. The canvas- 
back duck is the royalty of ducks. No other ap¬ 
proaches him within the circumference of the earth. 
His delicacy of flavor and his rare and melting juic¬ 
iness are attributable to his delicate feeding, which 
is wholly on wild celery. This duck must be roasted 
at a rapid fire; brownly—almost blackly— crisp, and 
served without one gout of sauce or flavor, and with 
no condiment save a modicum of salt and some 
sticks of white crisp celery. It is a kind of barbar¬ 
ism to disguise in wine or jelly the melting natural 
richness of this bird; and if properly cooked, his 
own crimson gravy will be abundant and delicious. 
Knowing that having got your duck the next thing 
is to eat him, the reporter called upon a well-known 
caterer for information as to the proper way of cook¬ 
ing the bird. Here, to his surprise, he met with a 
statement which contradicts all the encyclopaedias 
since the canvas-back duck was given a place 
therein. He was informed that the canvas-back 
duck does not eat wild celery. It has been popularly 
supposed that the superiority of the Havre de Grace 
and Potomac River birds was due to the fact that 
they ate nothing but wild celery, but this famous 
caterer says that they feed upon a plant called rales - 
jieria, the roots of which are covered with thousands 
of little insects extremely acceptable to the palate of 
the canvas-back. However this may be, there is 
no . doubt that when you get a canvas-back you 
should cook him as follows: Loose as little of the 
juice or blood as possible. The best way is to split 
him down the back after plucking and singeing him 
very carefully. Then lay him on a gridiron with 
the spli side toward the fire; keep him flat on the 
gridiron either by pressing him down with the other 
half of the gridiron or by putting on a weight suf¬ 
ficient heavy for the purpose, but not heavy enough 
to bruise the meat. Let him remain over the fire for 
twelve or fifteen minutes; then take him off and ex¬ 
pose the breast to the heat for a moment, just long 
enough to brown the skin nicely, and then serve 
him immediately before he has a chance to get cool. 
A salad of celery with a mayonnaise dressing is the 
proper thing to eat with him. This with a bottle of 
very dry champagne frappee makes a course for a 
king. Canvas-back in Season —Its season lasts 6 
months, November to April, inclusive; the first half 
of the season being its prime. Roast Canvas-back 
—Singed, drawn, wiped inside with a cloth and 
dusted with salt. Trussed with the head closing | 


CAP 

the upper opening, the rump the lower one; roasted 
in hot oven about 25 minutes. Dusted with salt, 
spoonful of water inside to increase the gravy, 
served on a hot dish; celery and currant jelly served 
separate. 

CAPERCAILZIE—A variety of grouse in Nor¬ 
way and Scotland, similar to the spruce grouse of 
the Rocky Mountains, which feed on pine leaves in 
winter. Require to be hung to make them tender, 
and the breasts larded. Cooked as grouse and 
prairie hens. Cold Capercailzie Pie —Meat taken 
off the bones and partly fried in butter, then briefly 
steeped in marinade of vinegar, onion, nutmeg, 
pepper. Sausage meat mixed with bread crumbs 
and chopped yolks made. Pie dish bottom covered 
with sliced bacon, meat and sausage forcemeat in 
alternate layers, wine, lemon slices, buttered paper; 
no top crust; baked in slow oven several hours; 
eaten cold. 

CAPERS—Pickled green berries of a shrub, an 
old-time favorite relish to eat with mutton. Can be 
bought in cheaper ways than by the small bottle; 
there are gallon jars and kegs of different sizes. 

CAPER SAUCE- Butter sauce with capers and 
some of the caper vinegar mixed in. Puree of 
Capers —Another caper sauce made by pounding 
capers through a strainer or seive and mixing the 
pulp with butter sauce hot, or with softened butter 
cold. Used for boiled and broiled fish, mutton, 
lamb, tongue, tripe, etc. 

CAPER SUBSTITUTES—The flower of the 
marsh marigold are used, and the pods of the nas¬ 
turtium flow r er pickled; these are thought to be as 
good as capers. 

CAPOLITADE DE VOLAILLE—Pieces of 
fowl in Italian sauce, with capers. 

CAPON—A sterilized fowl of either sex, fed and 
fattened for market. Capons attain to twice the 
weight of ordinary fowls. Roast Capon —Same as 
turkeys and fowls, with stuffing and butter basting. 
Giblet sauce or brown sauce from the baking pan. 
Boiled Capon with Salt Pork —Same as chicken 
or turkey. “ A capon is not so profitable as a fowl, 
as it wastes very much in cooking. The bird being 
fed on barley-meal and milk, the flesh is necessarily 
finer. Capon Pie —“Should you be in Dorsetshire 
or Hampshire, and see before you a capon pie, the 
capon stuffed with truffles and innumerable dainties, 
eat. Eat, be it morning, be it noon, or be it night. 
Eat, and be thankful for your introduction to one of 
the greatest luxuries the mind of man has ever con¬ 
ceived.” 

CAPSICUMS—The small red peppers used in 
bottled pickles. Essence of Capsicums —Cayenne 
pepper in spirit, used in seasoning instead of pepper. 
Capsicum Butter —For sandwiches; butter and 
cayenne. 

CAPTAIN’S BISCUITS — Home-made hard¬ 
tack. 








266 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CAR 

CARAFES FRAPPEES—“ Those who know 
the French capital will readily recall the delight¬ 
fully refreshing and almost picturesque appearance 
along the Boulevards of innumerable balls of what 
appears to be frozen snow in elegantly-shaped and 
scrupulously clean water-bottles, or carafes. These 
carafes frappees, as they are called, are supplied to 
restaurants all over Paris by a company, at a charge 
which is a little more than nominal. They are 
brought around in carts with the regularity of the 
post, and are renewed sufficiently often to enable res¬ 
taurants of the largest clientele to supply their cus¬ 
tomers with water brought down to the temperature 
of ice.” Ball of Ice in a Bottle —“ It was in the 
Cafe de la Paix that I saw him thus, and his strange 
appearance attracted my attention. On the marble 
slab before him stood an empty coffee glass and a 
carafe frappee. It had puzzled him; it puzzled me 
once. I have heard many and various explanations 
given which were far from being satisfactory. A 
lady of my acquaintance opined, and opines still, for 
all I know, that the bottles were made round the ice. 
another, a scoffer, that the ice wasn’t ice at all, but 
ground glass; others that it is an optical illusion, 
and so on. But after all it is a very simple matter, 
and as easy of comprehension as is the manufacture 
of ice-cream, only that in this case the bottle must 
be filled three-quarters only, and be of tough glass, 
to minimize the chances of a very animated ‘bust’.” 

CARAMEL—Burnt sugar. Said to have been 
named from a Viscount Caramel. It is the stage in 
boiling sugar when the boiling ends and it begins to 
turn brown. At that stage it has a pleasant taste 
like some brown candies. Caramels —Name given 
to various kinds of candies, generally of a dark sort. 
Caramel Coloring —Sugar burnt in a frying pan 
till it smokes and turns black, water then added, 
boiled, strained; used for giving the brandy-color to 
soups, jellies and spirits. Caramel Pudding— 
Sugar melted brown in a mould and run all over the 
interior while cooling; filled up with custard of cream 
and yolks; steamed. Caramel Ice Cream —Brown 
almond nougat made by melting sugar to caramel 
with almonds mixed; when cold, pounded fine and 
mixed in ice cream instead of sugar. 

CARAWAY SEED—Seed of a garden herb; 
grows like seed of carrots and parsnips; cheap in the 
drug stores; used in various cakes and sweet crack¬ 
ers, used by the Germans in rye bread, used steeped 
in spirits to make kummel, and in various liqueurs. 

CARBONNADE DE MOUTON (Fr.)-Loin of 
mutton. 

CARBONIC ACID GAS—The “fizz” of soda 
water, etc. 

CARDINAL PUNCH—One pineapple sliced in a 
bowl with powdered sugar, and left to stand a few 
hours; the peel of the pineapple boiled in little water 
which is strained to the fruit for higher flavor; 2 or 3 
bottles good white wine added and about 1 lb. sugar. 
Set on ice. When served, a bottle of seltzer or 


CAR 

champagne added. Strawberry Cardinal —One 
qt. fine red-ripe strawberries in a bowl with 1 lb. 
sugar and 1 bottle red wine. Set on ice. When 
served, 2 bottles Rhine wine or Moselle, 1 bottle 
champagne or seltzer. Both of these may be frozen 
and served semi-fluid in punch glasses, but need 
more sugar for that. 

CARDINAL SAUCE—It signifies red sauce, 
cardinal red having that name in allusion to the red 
capes worn by the cardinals of the Romish church. 
And the red sauce is made by mixing lobster coral 
—the eggs or roe—in butter sauce, with some other 
approved flavorings for a relish with fish. 

CAREME—A name often met with in the litera¬ 
ture of epicurism. It is necessary to a polite educa¬ 
tion to know something about a name so prominent. 
Careme was an original genius who happened to be 
a cook, had the good fortune to get into the employ 
of kings and emperors, and seing his advantages 
and having the ability, he wrote books and laid the 
foundation of a new school of cookery. It was Ca¬ 
reme who invented or re-invented the great list of 
sauces now in use—the hot sauces and garnishes 
and ragouts—of which the names even have never 
been learned outside of France. There was another 
able man at the time doing practical work, Beau- 
villiers, the founder of the French restaurant, of 
whom it has been said he exhausted the classical 
school of cookery; he used up all the resources of 
the old world, but Cargme invented a new one. 
Careme made a new departure. In Careme’s time 
and afterwards, the old names and fashions of cook¬ 
ery disappeared and the uniform, almost universal 
language of the art, spread from Paris to all the 
civilized capitals; it was the end of the old feudal 
era of boar-hunting barons and coarse feasting and 
the beginning of a period of gastronormcal refine¬ 
ment and the cultivation of the manners of the 
table. Cargme died less than fifty years ago. He 
was doing his best work in the first quarter of the 
present century. We have some of his recollections 
of great men, which was written in 1S32. He wrote 
several books on cookery and kindred subjects; one 
of them was his Maitre d’Hotel or steward-cook. 
He himself was maitre d'hotel at one time to Prince 
Tallyrand in that famous man’s old age. He was 
in the employ of the emperor Alexander of Russia, 
at $6,000 a year, and spent for the emperor $5,000 a 
week on the kitchen and table. Car6me was not an 
economical cook or steward, neither are they who 
follow him faithfully. And yet he wrote in praise 
of economy and claimed to practice it. Before that 
time he had been cook to King George of England, 
but left London in disgust, complaining of the dull¬ 
ness of both the people and the climate. It is said 
the immediate cause of his leaving England was an 
insult he imagined he had sustained through the 
king having added salt to one of his soups and eaten 
asparagus with one of his new entremets. But in 
Russia he was not quite satisfied, and looked back 
upon the massive furnishings of the English table 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


267 


CAR 

with something like regret. “ When he cooked for 
the Emperor Alexander he never could reconcile 
himself to the Russian fashion of ‘a table not six 
feet broad ’ and mostly wasted on flower pots, which 
enforced the carving up beforehand of all his glo¬ 
rious grosses pieces. No, his pet crotchets were 
better humored by the oval table of polished steel at 
the Prince Regent’s pavilion, which was heated by 
steam, like a hot plate, and was large enough to 
hold forty entrees at one time, in addition to its 
monster decorations. Before the Revolution iron 
tables of this kind were, Cargme says, to be seen in 
the Chateaux of France and the private ‘hotels’ of 
Paris. And it is no wonder that iron was employed, 
for, gross as the custom was in Careme’s time, it 
was much worse about 1750. He copies from Vin¬ 
cent la Chapelle one menu for 100 guests, which 
comprised 24 soups, removed by as many large 
dishes of fish^S joints; 66 dishes of oysters, replaced 
by 66 entrees; 34 cold meats and 4S roasts; besides, 
66 salads, followed by 66 other entremets, and 30 
sauces. Thus no fewer than 472 different dishes of 
all sorts—round, oval, square, octagonal and fanci- 
form—had to be put on the table, and with all this 
each pair of elbows had but eighteen inches play.” 
Careme was not the finisher of a reform movement, 
he was the beginner of one. His works were grand¬ 
iloquent and verbose and not adapted to be trans¬ 
lated, and do not appear to be in print in English, 
if they have ever been. The essence of Careme’s 
work is in Francatelli, and French manners and 
fashions have now left both behind. Beauvilliers 
and Careme were the chief of two opposite schools 
of cookery—the classical and the romantic. Accord¬ 
ing to Mr. Hayward, “Beauvilliers was more re¬ 
markable for judgment, CarSme for invention; Beau¬ 
villiers exhausted the old world of art, and Careme 
discovered a new one; the former was great in an 
entree, and the latter sublime in an entremet; and 
while Beauvilliers might be backed against the 
world for a r6t, Cargme alone could be trusted to 
invent a sauce.” 

CARDON (Fr.)—Cardoon. 

CARDOON — Imported vegetable; uncommon; 
Spanish thistle heads. The stalks of the inner 
leaves are the parts eaten. Cardons a l’Espa- 
gnole —Freed from the soft stalks, and prickly 
edges rubbed off with a towel; cut in 4-inch lengths, 
parboiled, peeled, boiled in white broth with lemon 
juice and aromatics, served with espagnole and 
butter. Spanish Cakdoons with Marrow — 
Served with pieces of marrow toast. Fried Car- 
doons —Tied in bundles like asparagus and boiled, 
rolled in flour and fried in butter; served with butter 
sauce. Cardons au Jus — Parboiled, scraped, 
stewed, served with brown sauce and beef marrow. 
Cardons au Gratin— Covered with bread crumbs, 
moistened with butter and browned in the oven. 
Puree de Cardons aux Croutons— Cardoons 
stewed in stock, passed through a seive; the pulp 
mixed with cream, served on fried rounds of bread. 


CAR 

Cardons au Parmesan — Cardoons blanched, 
scraped, boiled, breaded, fried light color, dusted 
with grated Parmesan, garnished with fried parsley. 

CARRELETS (Fr.)—Flounders; flat-fish. 

CARRE DE MOUTON (Fr.)—Neck or rack of 
mutton. 

CARROTS—Necessary for soups and in stock for 
sauces; not in much demand as a vegetable in this 
country. In England nearly always served with 
boiled salt beef. Carrots in Cream— Young car¬ 
rots scraped, parboiled, cut in slices, simmered with 
very little water till tender; milk, butter, salt, pepper 
and corn-starch thickening. Carrots a la Fla- 
mande —Prepared like the last, finished with egg 
yolks, thickening them like custard, pinch sugar 
and chopped parsley. Stewed Carrots— Same as 
in Cream. Glazed Carrots —Young carrots, all 
one size, parboiled, then boiled in seasoned stock 
with butter and little sugar; dried down to a glaze. 
Savory Carrots —Fried in slices with butter, on¬ 
ion, pepper, salt, little flour; when brown, broth 
added; simmered tender. Carrots and Green 
Peas —Carrots cut in dice, cooked half done; equal 
quantity of peas added; boiled till all are done. But- 
ter-and-flour thickening. Carottes a la Mena- 
gere —In slices in white sauce with wine and herbs. 
Carottes Nouvelles a la Sauce Blanche— 
Young carrots stewed in white sauce. Carottes 
au Sucre —Boiled and mashed, mixed with sugar, 
milk, salt, eggs, in a dish, sugared over top and 
browned in the oven. Carrots in Puddings —Two 
oz. grated carrot to each pound of fiuit; said to im¬ 
prove plum pudding. Mashed carrot is an ingre¬ 
dient in a pudding on a former page. Carrot 
Soups —About half the soups made contain more or 
less carrots; they are in all vegetable consommes. 
“ Puree of carrots,” • “ solferino ” and “ crecy ” are 
carrot soups. Grated carrot has been used to color 
butter. Carrots in Chartreuses— They are es¬ 
sential for their color in ornamental vegetable pieces 
and for salads of cooked vegetables in jelly. 

CARP—Fresh-water fish; second-rate in quality, 
yet has received much attention from the cooks be¬ 
cause perhaps of its good shape to serve whole. In 
season from October to June. Baked Carp —The 
gills and backbone, which are the parts tasting un¬ 
pleasantly of mud in some fish, are removed without 
quite separating the back; a stuffing of bread and 
oysters put in, the fish sewed up, egged and bread- 
crumbed on upper side, and baked; gravy made in 
the pan with tomatoes or Worcestershire sauce. 
Carp a la Coblentz —The fish cut in pieces, stewed 
in stock with Rhine wine, carrots, onions, mush¬ 
rooms and herbs. Served with the liquor, reduced, 
lemon juice, butter, parsley, fried bread. Cakpe 
Frite —Split, floured and fried. German Carp 
a la Biere —Like coblentz, with beer to boil in in¬ 
stead of wine; bits of bacon added. Carpe a la 
Mariniere (sea fashion)—Cut up, stewed in white 
wine and water, garlic, onion, parsley; liquor thick- 









I 


268 THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CAT 


CAR 

ened with brown flour and butter; glazed onions, 
•oysters, etc., added. Carp Roe Balls —Roes cooked 
with salt, vinegar and water 15 minutes, drained, 
^ chopped, mixed with bread crumbs, yolks, butter; 
baked in balls. Coquilles de Laitances de 
Carpe —Scalloped carp roe in shells. “In illustra¬ 
tion of how much depends upon the dressing of fish, 
it may be observed that a stewed carp is really a 
splendid dish; a boiled carp one of the worst brought 
to table.” (See Buffalo-fish.') 

CARTOUCHES DE CUPIDON-Cartridge- 
forms of two colors of icecream; Cupid’s cartridges. 

CASSEROLE—A baked shape of rice; the same 
thing as cassolette, but larger. The rice is boiled 
dry, then mashed and seasoned, shaped as wanted 
with a wet knife, the inside hollowed out; exterior 
decorated, egged over and baked; then filled with a 
ragout or mince. 

CASSEROLE (Fr.)—Old name for saucepan. At 
a fashionable party in Paris: “The casseroles de ris 
de veau petits pois were stews of sweetbread with 
new peas served in small silver saucepans, the lid 
being attached to each with a bow of silk ribbon.” 

CASSIA - The cheaper spice that passes for cinna¬ 
mon. (See cinnamon.) 

CASSIS- Black currant wine. 

CASSOLETTES—Little cup-shaped cases of 
mashed rice, made to hold some kind of meat or sweet 
filling. They are usually floured and fried; they can be 
finished by baking as well. One form of rice croquette, 
which is like biscuit, with a hollow in the center to 
hold fruit jelly, breaded and fried, is a cassolette, but 
the shapes can be made deep and very ornamental. 

CASSOULET DE TOULOUSE—“To-day let 
me merely mention the various ingredients that enter 
into the composition of Cassoulet de Toulouse, as 
g^ven me by the amiable chef of the Cafe Voltaire: 
White beans, real Arles sausage, fresh pork, goose, 
garlic, pounded bacon, pepper and salt; stewed 
slowly together into a sort of puree for five hours. 
Apropos of cassoulet, I noticed, in passing down 
the Boulevard St. Michel yesterday, a very fine show 
of fat geese displayed in one of the windows of 
Boulant’s Buillon Restaurant, and over them the in¬ 
timation, ‘ Cassoulet every Saturday.’ The portion 
is tariffed at 6d.; but not for many sixpences would 
your correspondent try his feeble digestion with 
such a dish, delicious and savory though it may be 
to those endowed with what good old poet Horace 
calls ‘ dura ilia .’ At many other Parisian restau¬ 
rants, by the way, brandade and cassoulet days are 
announced in the windows on special showcards. 
For some reason brandade is usually a fixture for 
Tuesday, while cassoulet is almost invariably prom¬ 
ised for Saturdays. On such days the restaurants in 
question are certain to be filled with dark-bearded, 
voiuble-tongued, and sub rosa be it added, garlic- 
scented, sons of the South.” 

CASTOR PLANT—Grown in boxes in dining 


halls, bar-rooms, etc., it is said to effectually banish 
flies. The discovery that castor-oil plants possesses 
the faculty of killing and keeping away flies, mos¬ 
quitoes and other insects was recently made by a 
French scientist named Rafford, who noticed that 
certain rooms in his house, in which castor-oil plants 
were growing, were entirely free from these dis¬ 
agreeable insects, although other apartments -were 
infested with them. He found lying near the plants 
large quantities of dead flies, and a large number of 
dead bodies were hanging to the under-surface of the 
leaves, which caused him to investigate the matter, 
and the discovery was made that the plants gave out 
an essential oil or some toxic principle which pos¬ 
sessed very powerful insecticide qualities. 

CATFISH—The catfish in the United States oc¬ 
cupies the same ambiguous position as the conger- 
eel in England; both are good food and both are sub¬ 
jects of prejudice. The catfish furnishes too much 
good meat to the markets of all that country that is 
drained by the Mississippi for its value to be called 
in question now, and yet a good many people will 
not eat it. There are several varieties, seeming to 
be different only in the color of the skin, and some 
people liking the white, oily, flaky catfish steak 
compromise with their prejudices by choosing only 
the yellow cat to eat. But the distinction amounts 
to very little at the great fish stalls, -where cat as 
large as sturgeon and dear as halibut are cut into 
steaks by the several hundred pounds daily and sold 
as readily as any fish from the sea. At the steam¬ 
boat landings on the Mississippi it is no uncommon 
thing for a catfish of 100 pounds weight to be hooked, 
the fishers using flat-boats to fish from and armed 
with boat-hooks and axes to cope with such power¬ 
ful game when hooked; the plan is to get the monster 
to the side of the boat in one of his quiet intervals 
and sever the tail with an axe, after which the fish is 
powerless. The common weights are, however, 
about 40 or 50 pounds. In smaller streams the fish 
seem to run smaller, and whole “ strings of cats ” of 
small weight may be caught before one that weighs 
as much as 20 pounds. Nothing elaborate in ways 
of cooking catfish is known; it is cut into steaks and 
either broiled or fried. The colored people make 
soup and chowder of the head. The fish is skinned 
with a knife, in strips; but small ones are skinned 
more quickly by scalding and scraping. “Catfish 
or wolf-fish, which is seen occasionally in the shops, 
tastes not unlike veal.” It was .once proposed to 
import some varieties of American fish to stock En¬ 
glish waters, the catfish among them, and somebody 
wrote to their Times'. “ In mercy to men and fishes 
I protest against importing this forbidding, ferocious', 
uneatable, but all-devouring siluroid.” In reply Mr. 
Fish-Commissioner Blackford explains that “the 
fish are not handsome, but they are great favorites 
in Philadelphia. A native of that place is never so 
happy as when he is at a pic-nic on the Wissahickon 
eating catfish and waffles. Not many catfish stray 
into our market, and when they do they are boxed 







269 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CAT 

up and shipped to Philadelphia, where they are ap¬ 
preciated.” The catfish is in season from September 
to April. 

CATAWBA—See Wines, Drinks, Ices. 

CAULIFLOWER—Grows to perfection in some 
parts of this country, where the winters are mild 
and moist, hut is a rarity in the corn belt. Florida, 
Utah and California send shipments of cauliflower 
to all other sections. As a vegetable delicacy it is 
only second to asparagus, if carefully cooked. 
Cauliflower and Tomato Sauce — The cauli¬ 
flowers boiled in salted water until the stalk feels 
soft when tried with a fork, then drained; tomato 
sauce in the dish it is served in. Cauliflower 
Rari bit— Cauliflower in small flowerets fried with 
mushrooms, grated cheese enough to coat it over; 
served on toast. Chouxfleurs au Gratin —The 
flowerets separated after boiling, put in a baking 
pan or dish; white sauce, grated cheese, and cracker 
dust sifted over, browned in the oven. Choux¬ 
fleurs a la Hollandaise —Boiled and served with 
Hollandaise sauce. Chouxfleurs a la Mayon¬ 
naise— Cold, sprinkled with vinegar and mayon¬ 
naise sauce in the center. Cauliflower Salad— 
Cold boiled cauliflower with oil and vinegar. Mari¬ 
nade de Chouxfleurs — The pieces parboiled, 
drained dipped in batter and fried. Cauliflower 
in Soups Puree of cauliflower, cream of cauli¬ 
flower, consomme with cauliflower. Cauliflower 
Pickles —Generally mixed with other vegetables; 
cauliflower is pickled the same way. 

CAVY—The guinea pig. Where cavies are an 
article of regular consumption, especially as a sub¬ 
stitute for game in the menu in the summer season, 
they are cooked in a variety of ways. They are ex 
cellent in various stews as entree*, with mushrooms 
cut up and stewed brown, in a white stew with 
button mushrooms, with brown onions, with green 
peas, a la Soubise, and especially in curry. The 
guinea pig or cavy is prepared for cooking the same 
way as a ’possum, by scalding and scraping the 
hair off. 

CAVIARE—A relish or appetizer popular and 
fashionable everywhere more than in the United 
States. It appears in the majority of foreign menus 
whenever the hors d'ceuvres are named separately. 
Can be bought in cans at all the fancy grocery stores. 
To serve, it is spread either upon bread and butter, 
to make sandwiches, or upon fried bread (croutons). 
Caviare is greatly eaten in Berlin as a supper dish, 
served separately on a dish with bread and butter, 
cayenne and lemon, same as would be eaten with 
oysters; in London the sandwich is the favorite 
form. Caviare is as black as ink; it is the salted 
and smoked roe of the sturgeon, and that is black be¬ 
fore it is cured; a large sturgeon will yield a pailful 
of roe that looks like berries. The comestible seems 
to be a Russian invention, as it is oftenest branded 
Russian caviare, though it is made in this country 
to some extent. Tartines de Caviare —Spread 


CEL 

on buttered toast, decorated with minced pickles, 
pickled peppers and parsley. Caviare Salad— 
“Caviare, of course, everybody knows of, and 
Shakespeare's ‘ caviare to the general ’ would have 
no point to-day. But do you know how caviare 
salad is prepared? This is a most tasty preparation, 
and of great delight to the connoisseur. This is 
how you make it: Take of caviare and % of bread 
crumbs and almonds, and mince the whole up as 
finely as possible with a little olive oil, till the mix¬ 
ture becomes of the color and consistency of mortar. 
It is very good indeed when eaten with olives.” 

CAY ALIERS BROIL — A boned shoulder of 
mutton or lamb baked in covered pan, pressed flat 
while cooking, scored with a knife point, and sauce 
and seasonings rubbed into the gashes; broiled on 
the gridiron. 

CAYUGA DUCK—The cayuga, like the canvas- 
back duck, is of great size when mature. Its fine 
dark flesh is of better flavor than that of an ordinary 
wild duck, like which it should be cooked. It makes 
a superb salmi. 

CAZANOVA SAUCE—Mayonnaise with chop¬ 
ped yolks, shred whites and chopped truffles. 

CEDRAT (Fr.)—Citron. 

CELERY—An article of necessity now for every 
good dinner or supper in the winter and spring. Is 
thought not to have the delicate crispness so much 
esteemed until after frost. It should be kept in ice 
water for a few hours before it is used. The heart 
stalks are eaten raw with salt. The fashions change 
as to the method of serving; the tall celery glasses 
set upon the table form the handiest and handsomest 
medium, but having become so exceedingly common 
they are discarded at present at fashionable tables, 
and the celery is laid upon very long and narrow 
dishes. It is almost invariably eaten with the fingers. 
The principal use next made of celery is in salads, 
or as a salad alone, cut in dice, with oil, salt, pepper 
and vinegar shaken up in it. Celeri au Jus —The 
stalks cut in finger lengths, stewed in stock, served 
with brown gravy. Celeri a la Villeroi —The 
stalks cut in lengths, parboiled, drained, egged, 
breaded and fried. Celeri a la Moelle— Stewed 
in stock, served on toast spread with marrow. 
Celeri a la Chetwynd —The stalks cut in inch- 
lengths, stewed, mixed with stewed onions in cream, 
with chillies; served on toast. Celeri au Par¬ 
mesan —Made the same as macaroni and cheese; the 
celery in place of macaroni. Celery Sauce (white 
or brown)—Cut in small pieces and stewed, either 
white or brown sauce added to it; served with fowls 
and various small meats. Celery Salt — A 
most useful kitchen adjunct. It can be made in 
two ways: ist, essence of celeri poured over a tablet 
of table-salt, and the salt then dried, powdered by 
rubbing one half on the other, and then bottled and 
closely corked; 2nd, by using ground celery seeds. 
These are prepared in a pepper-mill and mixed with 
salt in the proportion of 2 oz. to the i lb. of salt 








270 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CEL 


CHA 


Celery Puree (a sauce)—Celery cooked and passed 
through a seive, mixed with cream; served with 
partridges, quails, chicken, etc. Celery Soups — 
Cream of celery, consomme with celery, and mixed 
with other vegetables. 

CELERIAC—Turnip-rooted celery. Eaten raw 
and in salads; can be cooked as the other kind. 
Puree de Celeri-Rave —Cooked root-celery like 
mashed turnips. 

CENDRE (a Id )—Cooked in the coals. 

CENDRILLONS DU FILETS DE SOLES— 
A French chef's specialty for a party. “Shape the 
fillets of soles into the semblance of babies’shoes; 
bako them for about ten minutes, and, when cold, 
cover each one carefully with a sauce chaudfroid, 
prepared from the bones of the fish. Decorate what 
represents the toe-points with a spreading of chervil 
very finely chopped; and, at the part usually adorned, 
form a knot of truffles in imitation of a bow. Dish 
up in a rice-stand, garnished in the center with a 
salade Italienne, and surrounded by croutons offish- 
jelly.” 

CEPES—These are large or “flap” mushrooms, 
obtainable in cans put up in oil something after the 
manner of sardines. They have the mushroom- 
flavor strong and decided, which is only faint in the 
canned champignons. Cepes are valuable additions 
to entrees and sauces, but are also easily converted 
into a choice dish by draining from the oil and broil¬ 
ing or frying like an omelet. Cepes a la Borde- 
laise —Means Bordeaux cepes; they only need to be 
heated in a frying pan and have lemon juice and 
parsley added. Cepes a la Provencale —The 
cfepes cut in slices, stewed with garlic, onions, bay 
leaf and espagnole; lemon and parsley; served with 
shapes of fried bread. Cepes or Mushrooms 
Fresh —Are prepared a la Bordelaise by peeling, 
washing and draining large mushrooms, steeping 
for an hour or two in oil, salt and pepper; broiling 
them, and using the same oil, with lemon juice and 
parsley, for sauce. “But what struck me the most was 
the enormous quantity of edible fungi that were to be 
seen about the market at Aix les Bains. They were 
represented by samples in all their varieties of form, 
size and quality. The cfepes (esculent Boletus), the 
ordinary mushrooms, the oronges, the morels, the 
roussillons, etc., were in abundance, presenting a 
curious aspect with their odd shapes and various 
colors. But above all I noticed that the cfepes were 
in majority, their rich tones and glaring colors con¬ 
trasting strongly with the whiteness of their flesh.” 

CEREALINE — A starchy pudding - material, 
made from Indian corn. Used same ways as arrow- 
root, corn starch, tapioca, etc. 

CERF (Fr.)—Deer, venison. 

CERISES (Fr.)—Cherries. 

CERVELLES (Fr.) — Brains. Cervelles de 
Veau —Calves’ brains. Cervelles d’Agneau— 
Lambs’ brains. Cervelles de Mouton— Sheep’s 
brains. 


CHABLIS—A white wine; best kind for cooking- 
fish. 

CHAFING DISHES—Metal dishes set in an¬ 
other dish containing hot water, a lamp underneath, 
for keeping meats, etc., hot. 

CHALYBEATE — Containing iron, as iron 
spring-water. 

CHAMBERTIN—A dinner wine. (See wines.) 

CHAMBORD (a la )—Style of cooking fish, in 
which the fish is spread over with forcemeat and 
decorated, and served with Chambord garnish. 
Name of a part of France. 

CHAMBORD GARNISH—Light sauce offish- 
liquor, seasoned with vegetables, wine and tomatoes^ 
strained, and mushrooms, fish quenelles, cooked oys¬ 
ters and truffles added. 

CHAMBORD SAUCE—For fish; made of % pt. 
white puree of mushrooms, i pt. bechamel, 2 oz. 
lobster butter, a glass of sauterne and piece of glaze. 

CHAMPAGNE—A wine accidentally discovered 
by a good Benedictine monk, named Dorn Perignon, 
in or about the year 168S. (See wines for times to 
serve , etc.) “Sweet v. Dry Champagne —It is 
for the interest of the wine manufacturer that a taste 
for a very sweet wine should predominate in the 
world. A dry champagne, to be palatable, must be 
made of the finest raw wine. A sweet champagne 
can be made of almost any material. The excessive 
quantity of sugar in the latter masks completely its 
original character. In the former, every natural 
feature is distinctly expressed, and its virtues or vices, 
if it have them, are at once discerned. Champagne, 
as it is known to the consumer, the vinprepare (pre¬ 
pared wine) of the manufacturers, does not improve 
by age. The wine, the z>m brut (raw), of which it is 
made, provided it be good, does, however, benefit 
by increase of years. Effervescence —The effer¬ 
vescence of champagne depends much upon the form 
and condition of the glass out of which it is drunk. 
It sparkles much more freely when poured into a 
glass pointed, than in one that is round or flat at the 
bottom. The presence of a little dust, left by a care¬ 
less waiter, will increase greatly the development of 
the gas; and the glass that, after being rinsed with 
water, is wiped with a cloth, however fine, will 
cause the champagne poured into it to sparkle, while 
the same wine will be comparatively still in the 
glass which has been merely rinsed and untouched 
afterwards. Storage —As soon as the consumer 
has purchased his stock, he should remove the bot¬ 
tles from the baskets or cases, and lay them in a cel¬ 
lar of about 45 degrees, on their sides, with an 
inclination of the neck downwards, so that the wine 
may remain in contact with the corks. Thus, con¬ 
stantly bathed with the vinous fluid, they are pre¬ 
vented from drying and shrinking, and from being 
covered with mould, which will spoil the flavor of 
the best champagne. If the cork shrinks, from dry¬ 
ness and heat, the gas will escape, and the wine. 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


271 


CHA 

losing its sparkle, become flat. Explosiveness— 
The champagne which explodes the loudest and 
flows out the frothiest, is by no means the best. It 
is, in fact, a proof of its inferiority. Good wine 
largely absorbs the carbonic-acid gas generated in 
the course of its manufacture. In bad wine the gas, 
instead of being absorbed, accumulates in the vacant 
space above the liquid, and thus, when the bottle is 
opened, the cork explodes with great violence, fol¬ 
lowed by a cataract of froth. When this escapes, 
the wine remains comparatively flat. In good wine, 
on the other hand, the cork may require a great 
effort to draw, and when drawn there may be little 
or no froth, but the liquid will be seen to sparkle 
with innumerable gems of brightness.” Champagne 
Drinking —“The prevalent notion that a glass of 
champagne cannot be too quickly swallowed is er¬ 
roneous; and it is no bad test of the quality of cham¬ 
pagne to have it exposed for some hours in a wine¬ 
glass, when, if originally of the highest order, it 
will be found to have lost its carbonic acid, but en¬ 
tirely to retain its body and flavor, which had before 
been concealed by its effervescence. Champagne 
should, therefore, not be drunk till this active effer¬ 
vescence is over, by those who relish the above 
characteristic quality.” — “The reason champagne 
is costly is not that the grapes from which it is 
made are less prolific, or require more expensive 
treatment to vinify than other sorts; it is the amount 
of care and attention required after bottling that 
makes the price so high. A bottle of champagne, or 
other kindred wines, requires, without exaggeration, 
twenty times the labor and care of any other, and in 
addition a heavy percentage is annually lost through 
the bursting of bottles during manufacture, which 
proportion of breakage rises as the quality of the 
vintage is more favorable, in good years reaching 
from ten to twenty-five per cent.—bottles and wine 
entirely lost—and yet the sale of champagne con¬ 
tinues to be both large and remunerative to the 
grower, and he, to meet the demand, extensively 
adulterates and doctors inferior qualities, as is proved 
by the excess of that consumed over that produced; 
but from the above remarks it can be gathered that 
there is no such thing as cheap champagne, and 
when champagne is offered below a certain figure, 
one may rest assured it is not champagne at all.” 

CHAMPAGNE CAKES — Peculiar shapes of 
cake, like the natural divisions of an orange, made 
of i lb. sugar, i lb. butter, 9 eggs, 1 y 2 lbs. flour; 
mixed like pound cake. Stiff paper folded in flutings 
like a fan, spoonfuls of the cake dropped at distances 
apart. 

CHAMPAGNE CIDER—Cider bottled and kept 
one or two years. 

CHAMPAGNE FRAPPE — Bottles of cham¬ 
pagne set in a pail of freezing mixture (pounded ice 
and salt) until thoroughly cold and beginning to 
freeze, like melting snow. “ Mr. Henry Clair is an 
ingenious man. A contemporary says of him that 


CHA 

he can frappe a bottle of champagne in five minutes. 
He puts into a metal wine cooler a bottle of cham¬ 
pagne, surrounds it with alternate layers of ice and 
rock salt, and puts the cooler on a hot range, turns 
the bottle with the hands, and the rapid melting of 
the ice solidifies the wine at once.” 

CHAMPAGNE CREAM—Cream-colored, sort 
of champagne egg-nogg; yolks of eggs and pow¬ 
dered sugar—5 yolks and 5 oz. to a bottle—whipped 
light, champagne and brandy added; half frozen, 
served in punch glasses. 

CHAMPAGNE SAUCE—Sauce made by mix¬ 
ing gooseberry or apple champagne with brown 
sauce and little sugar; served with roast ham. 

CHANNEL BASS—The redfish of the South, or 
sea bass. It is known by its having a black spot on 
each side of the tail; attains a weight of ten or fif¬ 
teen pounds; is cooked like snapper and any sea fish. 

CHANCELLOR PUDDING—A steamed cab¬ 
inet pudding made of sliced small sponge cakes, 
macaroons, raisins, citron, in a buttered and orna¬ 
mented mould; filled up with custard before 
steaming. 

CHANTILLY CREAM—Whipped cream; com¬ 
mon thick cream; possibly it may have meant at first 
clotted cream. French royalty had a country resi¬ 
dence at Chantilly about the time our present culi¬ 
nary terms were in course of formation, and there 
also was the royal model farm and dairy, whence 
came the “ chantilly cream ” for the king’s table in 
Paris. The term occurs with great frequency with 
certain culinary authors, and never means anything 
else than whipped cream. Meringue Baskets a 
la Chantilly — Egg-kisses built up in basket 
shape by sticking together with candy; the basket 
then filled up with sweetened and flavored whipped 
cream. Border of Jelly a la Chantilly —Same 
as English jelly with syllabub; a border or ring of 
jelly formed in a border mould, turned out and the 
center filled up with whipped cream. Gateau a la 
Chantilly —A cake made hollow in the middle, 
spread all over with jam and filled with whipped 
cream. Chantilly Soup —Puree of young green 
peas, slight flavor of mint and green onions. 

CHAPON (Fr.)—Capon. 

CHAR—Fish like a trout, or the cisco of the 
American lakes; found in the lakes of the north of 
England; cooked, potted, etc., like brook trout. 

CHARCUTIER— (Fr.)—Pork butcher. 

CIIARCUTERIE (Fr.) — The pork butchers’ 
manufactures; products of pork and other meats, 
such as Strasbourg cervealsNancy chitterlings 
andouiilettes, saveloy pig's liver / pig's feet with 
truffles ; rillettes de Tours / bond ins / cervelatwurst ,* 
schinkenwurstplocfnvurstFrankfurt wurstchen ,* 
also brawn, galantines, etc. 

CHARCOAL — The best deodorizer; best non¬ 
conductor of heat for refrigerators if finely pounded; 





272 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CHA 

necessary for broiling- meats. A supply for a hotel 
can generally best be obtained by engagement with 
a countryman to burn a pit, as it is called, though 
some make a business of it and go around and take 
orders. The tinsmiths have to have it, and can 
often direct a steward where to buy. The price of 
charcoal ranges from 7 or S to 15 cents per bushel in 
ordinary localities. Charcoal should be kept dry. 
The dust remaining is good and useful to destroy 
the smell of chicken coops, waste barrels, tainted 
meats, etc. 

CHARLOTTE—A sweet dish made of a casing 
of cake or bread, the inside of fruit or cream. Ap¬ 
ple Charlotte — See apples. Charlotte de 
Po 1 res —Pear charlotte. 

CHARLOTTE AUX FRUITS—Several kinds 
of fruit stewed with wine in a charlotte made same 
as with apples. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE—Not to be confounded 
with chartreuse. Charlotte russe is varied in sev¬ 
eral ways; it is alining of either lady fingers or 
sliced sponge cake, placed around the inside of a 
mould and filled up with a cream containing gela¬ 
tine enough to set it, pure whipped cream is the 
best, sweetened and flavored. Small charlottes to 
be served individually are made in muffin rings and 
turned out when set, or in fancy paper cases and 
served in them, when whipped cream without gela¬ 
tine is sufficient. Charlotte a la Polonaise— A 
sponge cake cut in slices, the slices dipped in fla¬ 
vored cream and built up into their former shape; 
the re-formed cake is covered with whipped cream 
and sugar and decorated with jelly; served very 
cold. 

CHARLOTTE PRUSSIENNE — A charlotte 
russe solidified by partial freezing, wine jelly being 
poured in the mould first inch deep, lady fingers 
around when that is set; filled up with Bavarian 
cream and set in a pail of freezing mixture till 
wanted. 

CHARLOTTES GLACEES—Frozen charlottes; 
made by lining a mould with lady fingers and filling 
with ice cream; the name according to the filling; as 
Charlotte Glacee a La Plombieres—Is filled 
with a white tutti frutti. A wetted paper is first 
to be laid in the bottom of the mould. Individual 
Charlottes Glacees — Square cases made of 4 
sponge drop biscuits joined at the ends with icing, 
rilled at serving time with ice cream. 

CHARTREUSE- • A liqueur invented by the 
monks of Chartreuse. Can be bought of liquor 
merchants, as well as maraschino, etc.', is used by 
pastry cooks in ices and creams. There are four 
varieties of the liqueur mentioned; the yellow char¬ 
treuse is that in common use at first-class bars. 
“Chartreuse is of four kinds: The ‘Elixir,’ which 
is most expensive, and, if genuine, has a slight fla¬ 
vor of bitter orange. The ‘ Green Liqueur,’ which 
my friend ‘Drogan’ uses for his nigh-class creams, 
has a pronounced flavor of Angelica. Much of its 


CHA 

medicinal, blood-cooling and healing qualities are 
due to the extracts of garden balm, wild thyme, 
sea-pink flowers, spearmint, red clove carnations, 
violets, and the young tassels of the pine-trees. 
There are many seeds also used in its composition, 
such as coriander, orange pips, cucumbers, almonds, 
pistachio nuts, etc. The green chartreuse is the 
most popular of the four kinds, and a small glass of 
this liqueur, with a dash of Cognac in it, is one of 
the finest after-dinner stomachics a man can have. 
The yellow chartreuse stands next in order, and is 
more popular on the Continent than in this country. 
It is far from being so spirituous in character as the 
green chartreuse, averaging from 12 to 14 degrees 
of alcoholic strength. Next comes the far-famed 
* Balm ’ chartreuse, which is of a very pale straw 
color, one might almost term it white. Here the 
garden and other balsams predominate; its qualities 
are nerve-soothing, healing and cooling.” 

CHARTREUSE—An ornamental mould of veg¬ 
etables, either cold or hot. (See illustration on 
page 2/7.) A cold decorative chartreuse is made 
by cutting cooked vegetables of different colors 
into blocks, heating them in aspic jelly and build¬ 
ing them in patterns upon the interior of a mould, 
and filling the inside with green peas in jelly or 
any similar material. Chartreuse a la Mikado— 
Forcemeat of chicken, highly seasoned with aro¬ 
matic salt, is filled into rings of sliced cooked car¬ 
rots and beets, dipped in jelly and a mould lined 
with them; filled up with chicken and green peas in 
jelly. Chartreuse Hot — A small mould lined 
with blocks of cooked carrots, turnips and beets, the 
interior filled with well-seasoned cabbage drained 
and chopped, or with potato, parsnip, etc. Made hot 
and turned out on a dish.—The chartreuse of veg¬ 
etables derives the name from the same monks of 
Chartreuse to whom the chartreuse liqueur is cred¬ 
ited; it was one of their fast-day dishes, and strictly 
made is entirely of vegetables. There is a malicious 
story, however, in circulation that the good men, 
having the inside of their ornamental dish filled with 
cooked cabbage, excellently seasoned, rolled up and 
systematically placed in rows, used to find a boneless 
joint of a partridge rolled up in each leaf, like the 
filling of a cigar, and regarding it as a miracle ate 
the meat in silence. Chartreuse of Partridges— 
Cooked joints of partridges imbedded in the cabbage 
of the hot chartreuse before described. Char¬ 
treuse of Lamb au Gastronome —Breast of lamb, 
cooked and pressed, cut in blocks; cooked heart let 
tuce; the two filled in a mould in alternate order, 
pressed in, made hot in steamer; turned out, and 
served with white sauce. Lining for Chartreuse- 
Is best made by cutting the vegetables, either cooked 
or raw, with a column (tube)'cutter like bottle corks, 
the ends showing outside, the length giving room 
to build upon. Chartreuse aux Poulets a la 
Rhine— A delicious, but rather expensive entree, the 
wall of the chartreuse being formed of small circles 
alternately of truffles and tongue. 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


278 


CHA 

CHASSEUR (Fr.)—Hunter. 

CHATAIGNES (Fr.)—Chestnuts, the small kind. 
Marrons are large chestnuts. 

CHATEAUBRIAND—Name of a French states¬ 
man. First applied to fillet beefsteaks cooked be¬ 
tween two ordinary steaks, their juice being squeezed 
over it for sauce; now it has come to mean simply a 
fillet (tenderloin) of beef, or slice of the fillet, with 
Chateaubriand sauce. Chateaubriand Sauce— 
Brown meat gravy, or beef extract, mixed with but¬ 
ter, parsley and lemon juice. 

CHAUD (Fr.)—Hot. 

CHAUD-FROID (Fr.)—Literally hot-cold. The 
term has a definite meaning in cookery, being the 
name of a certain sort of jellied sauce; still it is one 
of the odd names which the French themselves can¬ 
not give a reason for. It is supposed, however, that 
it took its name from Cardinal Mazarin’s famous 
cook, who invented it; his name was Chauffroi (that 
name is the original of Geoffroy and Jeffrey). An¬ 
other story has been told in regard to it, that it orig¬ 
inated with the proud and haughty Duke de Rohan, 
of great repute as an epicure in his time, who, while 
at dinner, was sent for in haste by the king and or¬ 
dered his favorite dinner of fricasseed chicken to be 
reserved till his return. When afterwards it was 
served to him again he complained that it was 
ni chaud ni froid (neither hot, nor cold), yet praised 
it for its richness so muchThat his imitators took 
the hint, and the dish had a run. Chaudfroid 
Sauce —Is a rich gravy, made by boiling down game 
or poultry with aromatics, and after straining adding 
enough gelatine to make it bright-brown jelly, or, 
rather, a jellied gravy. Chaudfroid of Par¬ 
tridges— The cooked meat cut in dice, warmed in 
chaudfroid sauce, stirred about until cold; served 
cold in caisses, cronstades , casseroles, rolls, paste 
shells, patty cases, etc. Other meats the same way, 
but the sauce is made cream-white for chaudfroid of 
chicken. Chaudfroid of Rabbit— After roasting 
or stewing, the rabbit is cut into joints, bones taken 
out, and warm cooked sausage meat inserted. When 
cold, the pieces are covered with chaudfroid sauce; 
served with border of endive. Chaudfroid of 
Eggs —Hard-boiled eggs, an opening cut in the side, 
and yolks extracted; mince of truffles, tongue, 
chicken and mushrooms in thick sauce filled into the 
whites; aperture stopped, eggs covered with chaud¬ 
froid sauce, cold; served with aspic. 

CHEDDAR—An English variety of cheese. 

CHEESE—Served in small squares and almost 
invariably eaten with the fingers. The last course 
of a dinner, but often in the form of canapes and 
other made dishes, appearing as well among the 
hot hors d’oeuvres near the beginning. A chemist 
has been wrestling with the difficulty of the indi¬ 
gestibility of cheese in the case of weak stomachs, 
and claims to have made the discovery that a % oz. 
of bicarbonate of potash in a pound of grated cheese 


■ CHE 

stirred over the fire with some milk till it dissolves, 
makes a soluble cheese that is easily digested. Hy¬ 
gienic Cheese Custard —Cheese with milk and 
potash as named; mustard, pepper, salt, and eggs, 
poured like an omelet in hot buttered dish, and 
baked. Cheese Pudding —Same mixture with 
more milk, poured to a dish of slices of bread,- and 
baked. Welsh Rarebit —Original recipe: IE 

cheese in small bits, glass ale, lump of butter 
mixed by stirring over a brisk fire, pepper, salt, and 
dry mustard added, poured over squares of toast. 
Potted Cheese —Dry pieces of cheese pounded fine 
with y lb. butter for every pound; pepper, cayenne, 
dry mustard; pressed down into jars to keep for 
sandwiches and cheese toasts. Cheese F ritters— 
Grated cheese, bread crumbs and eggs beaten well 
together; fried in small lumps of butter. Cheese 
Toast —Cheese and butter melted together, on fried 
bread. Cheese and Macaroni —One way of doing 
it in individual style is to place the cooked macaroni 
In the dish, dredge grated cheese and bread crumbs 
over, and brown each dish as it is sent in with the 
salamander. Ordinary macaroni and cheese has 
layers of macaroni, cheese sprinkled over, a sauce 
poured in, crumbs or cracker dust on top, and baked 
brown. There are other ways, however; the ordin¬ 
ary hotel Macaroni and Cheese a la Genoise is but 
boiled macaroni with grated Parmesan (which comes 
ready-grated in bottles) dredged over and a spoonful 
of tomato sauce besides. Cheese Souffles— -Made 
of y lb. soft cheese, 2 oz. flour, 1 oz. butter, salt, 
cayenne; all mixed with 3 yolks and the whites 
whipped to froth; baked in cases or cups. Must be 
served hot. Cheese Balls — Whites of 2 eggs 
whipped stiff, 2 oz. Parmesan cheese grated (or 
other dry cheese), stirred together, salt, cayenne, 
dropped in hot lard and fried like fritters; served 
very hot. Baked Cheese (restaurant specialty)— 
Four oz. butter, pint water boiled, 7 oz. flour 
stirred in; when partly cooked, 4 yolks beaten, then 
4 whites whipped, 4 oz. grated cheese; poured in 
dish, covered with very thin slices of cheese; egged 
over; baked. Kinds of Cheese —Of 18 varieties 
experimented with, Cheddar cheese was found to be 
most easily digested, 4 hours; skim Swiss cheese 
requires 10 hours. Fat cheeses are most digestible. 
Cheese with Asparagus —Cheese assimilates de¬ 
liciously with most varieties of succulent vegetables, 
and is particularly good with asparagus. Some 
Parmesan or Gruyere should be grated over the soft 
part. Cheese Stewed with Ale —Is much easier 
of-digestion than when toasted. The onty post¬ 
prandial dish of the Beef Steak Club used to be a 
stew of cheese in a silver dish. Cheese with Cl t t- 
lets —Lamb or mutton chops are dipped in flour, 
beaten egg, grated cheese and cracker dust, and 
fried a l’Jtalienne. Cheese Straws —Crisp sticks 
of cheese-paste made of 4 oz. each butter, cheese 
and flour pounded together, little water to moisten, 
salt, cayenne; cut in strips and baked; tied in bun¬ 
dles with colored ribbon. They are cut from size of 







274 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CHE 

straws to broad strips. Parmesan Pyramids— 
Square pieces of cheese-straw paste baked; whipped 
cream mixed with grated Parmesan on top. Cheese 
Ramequins —Light cheese souffle baked in cases, 
made of 2 oz. butter, 1 oz. flour, 1 cup milk, 6 eggs, 
6 oz. grated cheese; baked. Fried Ramequins— 
Puff-paste rounds spread with grated cheese wetted 
with cream, doubled over, edges pinched; fried. 
Cheese Trifles — Small patty-pans lined with 
paste, cheese, cream, and egg yolk mixed for filling. 
Cheese Omelet —An ordinary omelet with grated 
or minced cheese strewed over and rolled up in it. 
Cheese Souffle —A little thick butter-sauce with 
grated cheese, yolks and whipped whites; baked in 
a pan or case. Cheese Fondu —Melted cheese, 
butter and eggs stirred up together. Pailles au 
PARMESAN-Cheese straws. Pailles a la Sefton- 
Strips of puff-paste with grated cheese between the 
layers rolled in; egged over and baked. Biscuits 
au From age —The same paste of which cheese 
straws are made, cut into squares or diamonds. 
Pain de Fromage —A cheese cream, made of cus¬ 
tard with salt and cayenne instead of sugar; 3 oz. 
grated cheese stirred into y 2 pint of the custard and 
y 2 pint whipped cream, and y 2 oz. gelatine to set it 
when cold. In a mould. 

CHEESE-CAKES — Are not made of cheese, 
though the best of them are made with a proportion 
of the same curd of which the cheese is made; milk, 
curdled with rennet and drained in a cloth, is mixed 
with sugar, eggs, almonds, etc., and baked in patty 
pans lined with paste. They are small custard- 
tarts. They are all those things which the French 
call fanchonettes, mirletons, darioles and various 
other names grouped under one denomination in En¬ 
glish. All the pie mixtures used in the United 
States, such as cocoanut pie, lemon pie, apple cream, 
orange cream, cheese-curd pie, bread-custard pie, 
etc., if baked in small pie pans or patty pans, are 
English cheese-cakes. {See cream c/i.ese.) 

CHEF-DE-CUISINE (Fr.)- Chief of the kitchen; 
chief cook; steward who cooks, or directs the cook¬ 
ing operations, as the case may be. 

CHELONIAN—Scientific name for turtle, some¬ 
times used as a synonym. 

CHELSEA BUNS—Sweet coiled rolls, made of 
flour, milk, sugar, butter, yeast and yolks; the dough 
rolled out and spread with butter, rolled up and cut 
off in inch-thick pieces to make buns which will part 
in coils where the butter is. Sugared over. 

CHELTENHAM PUDDING—A baked plum¬ 
pudding, made of 6 oz. each suet and flour, 3 oz. each 
bread crumbs, sugar, currants, raisins, 2 eggs, pow¬ 
der, nutmeg, milk to mix it to stiff batter. 

CHERRIES—For hotel use the cherries ready- 
stoned should be bought; they are solid fruit and 
serviceable, and otherwise cherries are seldom pitted 
and pies not good. White California-cherries are a 
luxury for supper fruit and for ices. Cherry Pie — 
Red or black are the best; can lie used whole or raw 


CHE 

in pies, same as apples or blackberries, well heaped 
up, or stewed, in less quantity. Cherry Roll— 
Pitted cherries rolled up in a sheet of biscuit dough, 
tied in a cloth, steamed, boiled or baked. Cherry 
Pudding —In a bowl lined with paste and covered 
after filling with cherries. Cherry Cobbler— A 
large pie baked in a pan, cut out in squares; served 
with the syrup. Cherry Meringue —Stewed cher¬ 
ries spread y 2 inch deep on a sheet of cake; whipped 
whites with sugar on top; light baked. Cherry' 
Ice-Cream —White cherries mixed in pure cream 
and sugar, and frozen. Cherry'-Water Ice —Red 
cherries stewed, strained; juice only mixed with thin 
syrup; frozen. Cherry Ice — Cherries lightly 
cooked; juice, water and sugar frozen; whipped 
whites beaten in; cherries added at last. Cherry - 
Sherbet —Whipped whites beaten in water ice after 
freezing. Frosted CiiERRiES-Ripe cherries dipped 
in whipped white of egg and rolled in powdered 
sugar; dried on seives or paper. Cherry' Jelly - — 
Gelatine jelly made with red-cherry juice and whole 
white cherries in it. Flan de Cerises — Open 
cherry pie with custard on top of the fruit; cherry 
tarts, turnovers, vol-au-vents, etc., same as other 
fruit. Cherry' Fritters —Cherries stewed to pre¬ 
serves, a spoonful between two very thin slices of 
bread, dipped in batter, fried, sugared over. 

CHERVIL—One of the garden herbs used in 
cooking. These herbs will grow in any garden, 
and seed is obtainable at the large city seed-stores. 

CHESTERFIELD CAKE-S — A variation of 
lady-fingers, having caraway seeds sprinkled on top. 

CHESTER PUDDING—A meringued cheese¬ 
cake, or fancho?iette, made of equal parts sugar, al¬ 
mond paste, butter and raw yolks, mixed with little 
lemon rind and juice; baked in a crust; frosted over. 

CHESHIRE CHEESE—English cheese of the 
same style as the staple York State and Western 
Reserve cheese of this country; large, medium rich, 
yellow, and generally of fine flavor. 

CHESTNUTS—There are two sorts; the small 
kind are too tedious peeling to be of much use in 
cooking; the large ones are known as Italian. They 
are good food when cooked; can be made up in many 
ways. The best sweet potatoes have very nearly 
the same flavor as chestnuts, and are often substi¬ 
tuted for them wholly or partly in chicken stuffing 
and purees. Chestnuts Baked or Boiled —If the 
truth were known, many persons would confess 
that chestnuts never look so tempting as when they 
are seen at the corner of a street on the rude baking 
contrivance of a vagabond roaster. If they only had 
the courage in the face of day, they would gladly 
stop to buy a pennyworth and consent to pay a shill¬ 
ing. Nobody has been known to feel in the same 
way to boiled chestnuts, unless it be the Portuguese 
and those who have learnt their style, which is to 
“top ” them, that is, nip off their points, and to boil 
them with aniseed—half an ounce to fifty chestnuts. 
Chestnuts for Turkey —They are boiled, peeled 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


275 


CHE 

and scraped, put in the turkey whole, but a little 
seasoned forcemeat mixed in with them to hold the 
seasonings and absorb the gravy of the roasting 
fowl. Chestnut FoRCEMEAT-That which is named 
in the bills of fare as ptiree de marrons , and is often 
made of sweet potatoes. If made genuine, it is 
pounded chestnuts, butter, bread crumbs, grated 
ham, onion, lemon rind, egg yolks, salt and pepper. 
Used to stuff chickens or any fowl, or sucking pig. 
Puree of Chestnuts —Like mashed potatoes, 
strained through a seive; served with turkey wings 
5 ind various entrees. Chestnut Soup— A cream 
soup thickened with puree of chestnuts. Compote 
of Chestnuts — Boiled and peeled, simmered in 
syrup, flavored with lemon or orange; served hot or 
■cold, with pastry. Chestnuts as a Vegetable— 
Boiled, peeled, fried a little to remove the husk; 
stewed and served in various ways as other veg¬ 
etables. Chestnut Pudding —Puree of chestnuts 
and butter, corn starch, eggs, almond paste, sugar, 
milk, lemon; baked or steamed. Souffle of Chest¬ 
nuts —Puree of chestnuts with sugar, vanilla and 
white of an egg; made into very small balls; dipped 
into white of egg and sugar twice; dry-baked in a 
slow oven. Chestnut Flour —“One may often 
wonder, in reading some of Ouida’s novels, at the 
number of times she mentions chestnuts as a food of 
the Italians, particularly those of Tuscany. The 
Greeks and Romans used this kind of food, and at 
one time the Arcadians subsisted almost wholly on 
this farinaceous nut. In many parts of Italy its 
flour is used in preference to that of wheat or corn. 
The nuts are ground into flour in the same manner 
ns wheat and corn, and from this flour various dishes 
are made, as well as cakes, fritters, and even bread, 
and it is sweet, agreeable to the taste, and healthy.” 
Pouding aux Marrons— A mould of chestnut flour, 
butter, milk, eggs, sugar, vanilla, it is served with 
apricot syrup. Chataignes Croquantes— Same as 
souffle above. Gateau de Marrons —Same mix¬ 
ture steamed as a pudding. Marrons a la Creme- 
Minced chestnuts covered with whipped cream. 
Marrons Glaces —Candied chestnuts. Devilled 
■Chestnuts —Same way as salted almonds; peeled, 
thrown into hot clarified butter, salt and cayenne; 
fried yellow or light brown. 

CHEVRETTES (Fr.)—Prawns; large shrimps; 
the Barataria shrimps. 

CHEVREUIL (Fr.)—Roebuck; venison. 

CHICORY—Green salad; endive; curled endive; 
■succory. There are two or three varieties, not more 
different than varieties of-lettuces. Chicory with 
Gravy —Chicory cooked like spinach or greens. 
■Chicory Root— The great coffee-adulterant. Those 
who do not care for the loss of the stimulating qual¬ 
ities of coffee learn to like the taste of the chicory 
mixture. An act was once passed to prohibit the 
adulteration with chicory, but the consumption of 
■coffee afterwards decreased; it was found that people 
wanted chicory in their coffee, and the act was re- 


CHI 

scinded. The mixture is about one-fourth chicory 
to three-fourths coffee. Chicory is cultivated as a 
field crop; the roots are dried, roasted, ground; can 
be bought in packages separately and mixed to suit. 
It is about one-third the price of coffee. The mix¬ 
ture cannot easily be detected when there is milk in 
the coffee; but those who drink coffee without milk 
or cream become aware of the presence of chicory at 
once. “ Anent chicory in coffee I have an anecdote 
to tell. President Grevy loves his Mocha better than 
most men, and as a consequence hates the name of 
chicory as much as we may suppose him to hate the 
name of Prince Bismarck Accordingly, when he 
ever goes into a country inn or hotel, he asks the 
waiter if there is any chicory in the house. The 
waiter brings him some. ‘More, more!’ cries the 
President; ‘I want lots of chicory—lots.’ This he 
repeats, until the waiter answers in despair that 
there is not another grain of chicory left in the house. 
‘ Well, then,’ says the President, ‘you may make me 
a cup of coffee now.’ ” Chicory is not in general 
use in the United States; most people are in the 
habit of buying their coffee in the berry, and either 
grinding it or having it ground by the grocer. 
Chicory in separate form, when wanted, can be 
bought ready, put up in convenient packages, at all 
the large grocery stores. 

CHICKEN—In the United States chicken is the 
name commonly applied to fowls of any age, the 
word fowl being but seldom used; and this practice 
has been so extended that it takes in “ prairie 
chickens” and “guinea chickens.” Smothered 
Chicken —Home fashion of braising; halves of 
chicken cooked in a covered pot with live coals on 
the lid; fat and seasonings cooked with the chickens, 
and gravy made of the remaining liquor. Imitated 
by baking with sauce in the pan in the oven; the 
chickens floured on top. Fried Chicken —Joints 
rolled in flour and cooked in a kettle of hot lard. 
Chicken a la Marengo —Cut up in joints, rolled 
in flour, fried in oil, sauce made in the pan, the oil 
remaining in it; dished in pyramid form, and sauce 
poured over. “On the evening of the battle of 
Marengo, the First Consul was very hungry after 
the agitation of the day, and a fowl was ordered 
with all expedition. The fowl was procured, but 
there was no butter at hand, and none could be 
found in the neighborhood. There was oil in abund¬ 
ance, however; and the cook, having poured a cer¬ 
tain quantity into his skillet, put in the fowl, a clove 
of garlic and other seasoning, with a little white 
wine, the best the country afforded; he then gar¬ 
nished it with mushrooms, and served it up hot. 
This dish proved the second conquest of the day, as 
the First Consul found it most agreeable to his pal¬ 
ate, and expressed his satisfaction. Ever since, a 
fowl a la Marengo is a favorite dish with all lovers 
of good cheer.” Filets de Volaille a la Dumas- 
Breast of chicken, each one cut in two raw, spread 
with a puree of cucumbers in white sauce, breaded 
and fried; served on a puree of cucumbers. Filets 




276 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CHI 

DE Volaille aux Concombres— Breast of chicken 
breaded, arranged on the dish with stewed cucum¬ 
bers, and puree of cucumbers for sauce. Filets de 
Volaille a la Nesselrode— Breasts of chickens 
served cold, masked with a white chaudfroid sauce; 
alternately with glazed slices of tongue and chopped 
eggs, a mayonnaise salad in center. Filets de 
Volaille aux Pointes d’Asperges— Hot dish; 
breasts of fowl coated with white supreme sauce 
ranged around a pile of asparagus-points in center 
of dish; alternating with slices of tongue. Supreme 
de Volaille aux Trufpes— Breast of chicken 
coated with white supreme sauce ranged around a 
pile of truffles cooked in wine. Supreme de Vo¬ 
laille a la Royale —Breasts of chickens coated 
with white supreme sauce, a slice of black truffle on 
each, ranged upon an ornamental border of veg¬ 
etables heaped in the center. Chaudfroid de Fi¬ 
lets de Volaille au Supreme —Cold dish; breasts 
of chickens coated with white supreme sauce, decor¬ 
ated with truffles, ranged around a center of truffles 
in chaudfroid sauce. Saute de Filets de Volaille 
a la Cardinal —Hot dish; breast of chickens fried 
in butter, slices of truffle stewed in wine alternating 
in the dish; cardinal sauce in the center. Fillet 
of Chicken a la Dauphine —Breasts of chickens 
laid open, forcemeat inclosed, rolled up, covered 
with pork slices, simmered in butter and broth, 
dished on shape of fried bread; truffle sauce. 
Chickens a L’lvoiRE-Chickens ivory-white; chick¬ 
ens cooked with sliced lemon and fat salt pork on 
the breast in seasoned broth, white supreme sauce 
poured over; red tongue for garnish. Chickens 
a la Chivry —Boiled in seasoned broth; served 
with green herbs in rings of onion parboiled, and 
ravigote sauce. Chicken a la Provencale —Cut 
up, fried in oil with garlic and seasonings, sauce of 
espagnole, wine and tomatoes, lemon juice and pars¬ 
ley. Poulets a la Tartare —Breaded, broiled; 
served with tartare sauce and pickles. Poulets 
Saute aux Truffes — Cut up, fried in butter; 
served in brown sauce with truffles. Poulets a la 
Provencale —Cut up in a pan; garlic, onion, oil, 
herbs; white wine to moisten, white sauce poured 
over, bread crumbs on top; browned in the oven. 
Poulets a l’Orly —Cut up, dried, dipped in thin 
batter, fried; served with rings of onions floured and 
fried. Poulets a la Bonne Femme —Stewed in 
white sauce. Poulets a la Chasseur —Marinaded 
in oil, lemon juice, onions, herbs; breaded, broiled; 
served with wine sauce with chopped ham. Poulets 
en Kari— Curry of chicken. Fritot de Poulet— 
Cut up, marinaded in oil with seasonings, floured 
and fried; tomato sauce. Fricassee de Poulet— 
Stewed in white sauce with mushrooms. Fricassee 
de Poulet a l’Ancienne— Stewed in cream sauce 
with spring onions. Chickens a laMontmorency- 
Stuffed with forcemeat, sweetbreads, truffles and 
mushrooms minced; breasts larded, roasted in the 
oven; sauce with espagnole in the pan; garnish of 
sweetbreads and mushrooms. Chickens a la St. 


CHI 

Cloud — White dish, with red tongue and black 
truffles inserted in the breasts, and pork slices over; 
simmered in broth; white supreme sauce. Filets 
DE PoULARDES AU SUPREME —Breasts of fow'ls 
simmered in seasoned stock wdth butter, in a circle 
in the dish; supreme sauce over. Filets de 
Poulardes aux Champignons —Covered with 
cream sauce with mushrooms. Filets de Pou¬ 
lardes a la Duchesse —Chicken breasts flattened; 
half of them larded, braised, glazed; half plain saute; 
dished alternately in a circle, cream sauce with 
cock’s combs in the center. Epigramme of 
Chicken a la Macedoine —Imitation of cutlets 
made with the breasts flattened, breaded, bones in¬ 
serted,fried ; imitation cutlets made of the legs,boned, 
stuffed, sewed up, pressed, simmered, with gravy;, 
dished alternately in a circle, macedoine in the center. 
Filets de Poulardes a la Talma— The breasts 
divided into upper and minion fillets (natural divi¬ 
sion), larger ones larded, braised, glazed; minion 
fillets studded with green string beans and fried in 
butter; spinach in center, brown sauce under. 
Filets de Volaille a l’Avbassadrice —Breasts 
sliced, forcemeat spread, smoothed, shaped, egged 
over, half of them covered with chopped truffles 
and breadcrumbs, others with chopped ham and 
breadcrumbs, cooked in saute pan in the oven, 
served with puree of cucumbers. Aspic de Poulet 
a la Princesse —Cold ornamental dish, cooked 
breast of chickens in oval slices, covered with jelly 
singly spread in a dish, cut out with a cutter when 
set, each slice with the jelly coating it; served w r ith 
salad and aspic border. Cotelettes de Volaille 
a la Dauphine —Legs of chicken with thigh-bone 
removed, steeped in oil, breaded, fried, served with 
vegetables in the center and cream sauce. Cutlets 
of Chicken a l’Allemande —Minced raw chicken 
meat and pieces of cooked chicken in small squares- 
mixed together, red tongue, mushrooms and sea¬ 
sonings mixed in, making a chicken sausage meat. 
Shaped like cutlets, cooked in saucepan with butter,, 
cooled, pressed, breaded, fried, chicken bones in¬ 
serted; Allemande sauce. Cutlets of Chicken a 
la Villeroi —Minced cooked chicken made up as 
for croquettes, shaped, dipped in the sauce of onions, 
parsley, flour, yolks, butter, broth, etc., breaded and 
fried; tomato sauce. Cutlets of Chicken a la 
Montpensier —Breasts of chicken, raiv, chopped, 
mixed with butter and cream, shaped like laml> 
chops, breaded, fried one side at a time in little 
butter; tomato sauce. Chicken Saute a la Prin- 
taniere- Cut up, fried in clear butter; sauce of 
white wine and espagnole, green peas and string' 
beans mixed in, poured over chicken. Salade de 
Filets de Volaille a la Brunow —Cold dish; a 
white aspic of cream and jelly, chicken meat, slices 
of cooked cucumber and green peas, cut out when 
cold and set served on a salad border with white 
tartar sauce. Chartreuse de Volaille —Cooked 
pieces of chicken in forcemeat in a mould lined with 
vegetables. Creme de Volaille —Puree of chicken 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


277 


CHI 

mixed with cream sauce and eggs, steamed in a 
mould lined with truffles and tongue—a chartreuse. 
Petits Souffles de Volaille —White meat of 
chicken, pounded, passed through a seive, mixed 
with butter, cream, yolks, whipped whites, baked 
in small paper or paste souffle cases. Souffle 
Glace de Volaille — Frozen mould of chicken 
salad with whipped jelly. Quenelles de Vo¬ 
laille —Pounded white chicken meat, with season¬ 
ings made up in olive shapes, poached, or breaded, 
and fried; served with dressed vegetables. Que¬ 
nelles de Volaille en Demi-deuil —Chicken 
forcemeat balls in half-mourning; white quenelles, 
half of them poached, half rolled in chopped black 
truffles; served with white supreme sauce and black 
truffle garnish. Quenelles de Volaille a la 
Russe —Quenelles of fine chicken-forcemeat, oval, 
flattened, with oval slices of tongue to match in size, 
glazed; dressed in a crown (en coitronne) alternately; 
sauce supreme. Boudins de Volaille a la Lu- 
CULLUS— Quenelles of chicken with truffle puree in 
the center of each; served in an ornamental crous- 
tade with Allemande sauce. Chicken Croquettes 
a l’Italienne —Finely cut cooked chicken with 
some mushrooms; thick butter-and-flour sauce made 
containing minced onion, salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
lemon juice, parsley, raw yolks; chicken mixed in, 
cooled; made in shapes or long rolls; breaded, fried; 
white Italian' sauce. Chicken Rissoles —Raw 
chicken-meat minced with fat salt pork and herbs, 
long thin rolls inclosed in thin paste, edges joined 
with egg; fried in lard; ends trimmed off. Crome- 
skies of Chicken —Same mixture as croquettes; 
small finger-lengths rolled in shavings cf cooked 
fat salt pork, dipped in batter and fried. Potage 
a la Reine— A cream-of-chicken soup, the chicken 
pounded and passed through a seive. Patties of 
Fowl a la Cordon Bleu —Vol-au-vent patty 
cases, white puree of breast of chicken, and cream 
enough to nearly fill them; whipped white of eg'gs 
salted, colored green with parsley juice heaped in 
each patty; slightly baked to set; served on lace 
paper. Stuffed Pullet, Turtle Fashion —A 
boned chicken made to look like a turtle; served hot. 
Bones taken out, head left on and half covered with 
the skin of the neck, like a turtle’s head; body filled 
with forcemeat and sewed up; chicken feet skinned, 
inserted for fins. The chicken braised in stock, 
decorated in dish with truffles to imitate shell. 
Pulled Fowl —Pulled meat from cooked fowls, 
lightly floured and fried in butter, then stewed in 
stock, thick gravy with starch, and quince jelly; 
garnished with cress and pickled fruit. Chicken 
Curry— Mr. Friday Madrassi’s specialty. A large 
chicken cut in joints; 2 onions and 3 oz. butter fried 
together; chicken added, and 2 tablespoons curry 
powder, salt, cupful of gravy; gently stewed till 
tender, finished with 1 tablespoon lime juice; served 
with rice. Chicken a la d’Escars —The Due 
d’Escars was one of half a dozen nobles whom 
Louis XV associated with himself in a series of 


CHI 

cooking sprees, when they prepared their own grand 
suppers, each member carrying out his own part. 
The king would devote himself to poulet an basilic 
and preparations of eggs, in which he was highly 
skilled. The Due de Gontant would prepare the 
salad; the Due de Coigni would superintend the 
ro i —each one of the party being famous for cer¬ 
tain dishes—and there were never fewer than forty - 
eight. D’Escars died of a cramp colic through eat¬ 
ing a little of the king’s puree of truffles; the king 
looked upon it as an insult and would not attend the 
funeral. However, the d’Escars’ chicken was 
trussed as for boiling, the breasts larded, placed in a 
stewpan lined with slices of bacon, a slice of ham, 
onion stuck with cloves, herbs, carrot, stock and 
sherry; cooked over moderate fire with coals on the 
lid to brown the larding; sauce strained, skimmed, 
reduced to glaze. Poulet a la Boivin —Specialty 
of a French restaurant. Chicken cut up, browned 
in a pan with butter, button onions, potato balls 
(scooped out of raw potatoes); seasoned; finished by 
baking in the oven with blanched and quartered 
artichokes in sauce pan; gravy made in pan with 
meat glaze and tarragon; little heaps of the arti¬ 
chokes, potatoes, etc., aiound the chicken in dish,. 
and sauce over. Braised Fowls with Tomato 
Sauce —The breast bone removed without dividing 
the fowl, butter, salt, pepper and lemon juice put in 
place of it; slices of lemon on the breasts; bacon 
slices in the pan; braised, giazed; tomato sauce. 
Cut-Up Fowl —To avoid difficulty of carving,, 
carved in kitchen, bound up again with narrow rib¬ 
bon, easily severed by one who must carve at table. 
Chicken Fritters —Pieces of cold roast chicken 
soaked in seasoned vinegar; dipped in batter; fried. 
Indian-Fried Chicken— Joints rubbed with curry 
powder, fried in oil; served on bed of fried onions. 
Roast Fowl —With slices of lemon on breast; fowl 
wrapped up in thin slices of bacon and buttered 
sheet of paper; roasted an hour; giblet or tomato 
sauce. Chicken Rolls — Long finger-rolls split 
half open, and inside hollowed out, filled with 
chicken forcemeat, closed; dipped in egg, fried light 
brown; parsley garnish. Roast Pullet au Jus— 
“At the Cafe Royal, Regent street, famed alike for 
its cuisine and its cellar, an enjoyable dish is a ‘ sur¬ 
rey chick,’ otherwise a roast pullet or capon, served 
simply aujus, with watercress. This is the equiv¬ 
alent of the poulet de Pavilly one may enjoy at 
Bignon’s restaurant, so dear to Parisian epicures.” 
Chicken Fillets — Larded fillets, having 4 fine 
strips of pork for each, seasoned, breaded, fried; a 
spoonful of tartare sauce served on each one. Pou¬ 
let a la Viennoise —Halves of chickens steeped 
in oil, drained, breaded, broiled; served on toast 
with white sauce in which whipped raw cream 
is stirred at the last moment. Cigarettes of 
Chicken a la Reine —Fme-pounded chicken force¬ 
meat, with chopped truffles, rolled to cigar-shapes; 
breaded and fried. Poulet a la Albert Victor— 
Cigarettes of green herbs and hard-boiled yolks- 








278 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CHI 

forcemeat rolled in shavings of tongue and ham; 
used to fill up a boned chicken; larded outside, 
breaded; white mushroom sauce. Rissolettes de 
Volaille a la PoMPADOUR-Fine-pounded chicken 
forcemeat {quenelle) used as a paste to inclose pieces 
of chicken-croquette preparation, like square sand¬ 
wiches; dipped in batter and fried. Chicken a la 
Sontag —Cut up, fried slightly in butter with on¬ 
ions and raw ham; broth added; thickened, strained; 
served with shredded leeks fried, and boiled rice 
mixed in the sauce. Chicken in White Sauce— 
Whole, trussed, stewed in stock, with dash of vin¬ 
egar to keep white; dished with white sauce, fla¬ 
vored with celery; boiled cauliflower garnish. 
Chickens in Bechamel— Joints of chicken cut up 
after boiling, and bones taken out; in cream sauce; 
minced parsley on top; truffles around. Souffle 
de Gelenottes a l’Essence de Truffes —A Par¬ 
isian specialty. Pounded breasts of 4 chickens, as 
for quenelles, mixed w r ith little white sauce; butter, 
salt, pepper, nutmeg, 5 yolks and 2 whites raw, 
passed through a seive,grated truffles added,whipped 
cream and whipped whites in a buttered mould; 
cooked in barn-marie; served with sauce of wine in 
veloute. Friar's Chicken —Joints of chicken 
stewed in seasoned broth with chopped parsley; 
thickened with egg yolks. Glazed Chickens— 
English name for poulets ail supreme. Poulet a la 
Parmentier — Paris hotel specialty. Chicken in 
joints fried in clear butter; potatoes scooped out 
size of cherries cooked same w r ay; potatoes around 
the chicken; parsley dust overall. Chicken and 
Rice —Stewed chicken taken up, liquor strained and 
rice boiled in it, along with seasonings; chicken 
served in center. Roast Chicken a la Bressoise- 
The chickens of Bresse were mentioned by Savarin 
as of the highest excellence, owing probably to the 
breed of fowls. “ The black LaBresse fowl, which 
furnishes so much of the choice poultry eaten in 
Paris, especially the capons and poulardes, is un¬ 
equaled in quality of flesh, and quantity and weight 
of eggs.” The fat chickens are roasted with bards 
of bacon on the breasts, served with cress in (he dish 
and sauce of the chicken drippings; livers, shallot 
bread crumbs and orange slices rubbed through a 
seive. Poulets aux Petits Pois-Chicken in joints 
stewed in brown gravy; green peas added, and on¬ 
ions and parsley. Brown Fricassee of Fowl— 
Joints fried in butter; flour stirred in till brown; 
broth, wine, mushrooms, parsley, salt, pepper; 
skimmed, boiled down. Chicken Panada —For 
the sick. A puree of chicken with milk seasonings 
and flour—a cream of chicken like thick soup. 
Puree of Chicken [Soup] a la Bearnaise— 
Chicken pounded, passed through a seive; boiling 
cream and almond milk added; pieces of breast of 
chicken in it; rings of fried bread served with it. 
Chicken Soup a la Chiffonade— Chicken in small 
pieces fried in butter; broth added; finely shredded 
vegetables to finish. Chickens a l’Italienne— 
Chickens stuffed with the chopped livers, bacon, 


CHI 

mushrooms, butter, mixed herbs and spice; covered 
with pork slices and buttered paper; roasted; sauce of 
blanched parsley, chives, and tarragon leaves minced 
in wine; oil, anchovies, lemon, pepper, salt, gravy 
and yolks to thicken. Spatchcock Chicken —En 
glish name. A boned chicken trimmed, flattened 
and broiled; served with mushroom sauce or made 
gravy of stewed gizzard, etc., with butter.and lemon 
juice. Croustades of Chicken —Cases of bread, 
shaped like cups, fried in lard and drained; filled 
with minced chicken in a rich sauce. Chicken Pie 
a l’Americaine —Chicken cut up, backs, necks and 
rough pieces left out for broth; chicken stewed with 
seasoning, milk, parsley, butter, flour; poured in 
baking pan, covered with medium puff paste; egged 
over; baked an hour. Small Chicken Pies a la 
Restaurateur —Puff-paste flats rolled thin, size of 
palm of the hand; egged over, baked, split; chicken 
cut in dice in rich white sauce placed between sand¬ 
wich fashion; sauce poured aiound; parsley garnish 
or chopped yolks. Chicken Patties a la Reine— 
Chicken in cream sauce in puff-paste patty cases. 
Chicken to Make Tender— The proprietors of a 
sulphur springs hotel, noted for its fried chickens, 
having too much to do engaged a steward to assist 
them, and found it necessary to impart to him their 
secret as follows: “To make chickens tender, soft, 
white, juicy, plunge them the moment their necks 
are broken into very cold water and let them remain 
in it for from 12 to 24 hours; then take them out, 
scald and remove the feathers and draw them as 
usual. It is more trouble to pick them, but the flesh 
is incomparably better than chickens dressed the 
common way. Hanging Chickens —The meat is 
much improved by keeping a few days after killing. 
The fried and roasted chickens which are com¬ 
plained of as dry and tasteless are those cooked as 
soon as killed. Packing Chickens Unopened— 
Chickens packed in barrels for transportation suffer 
damage in flavor whichever way may be adopted; 
but of two evils the least is to have the chickens not 
drawn before packing, for if once cut open they be¬ 
come sour all through in a short time in the boxes 
or barrels. 

CHIFFONADE—Shredded vegetables for soups. 

CHIFFONIER—A man who gathers broken 
victuals from the kitchen, sorts and re-sells them. 

CHILI—Red pepper. 

CHILI SAUCE—Made of 6 ripe tomatoes, 4 
green peppers, 1 onion, 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 oz. 
salt, 1 cups vinegar, chopped, boiled 1 hour. 

CHILI COLORADO SAUCE—Made of the 
Mexican sweet red pepper pods finely minced in a 
vinegar pickle; can be bought in bottles; favorite 
sauce with oysters, cold meats, etc. 

CHINE OF PORK—The fleshy and broad part 
of the back-bone, between the shoulders. It is 
roasted plain and served with apple sauce, and also 
stuffed in incisions with minced sage and onions. 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


279 


CHI 

CHINESE COOKERY—The Chinese have es¬ 
tablished restaurants in New York and San Fran¬ 
cisco, and have been with their methods and ma¬ 
terials on exhibition in London. In the former 
places they are at their best in a business way; in 
London they were in the hands of a manager who 
had to make money by them, and they were under 
the supervision of a French chef, who drew up bills 
of fare purporting to be Chinese, which were half 
made up of French dishes. Chinese methods of 
cooking and restaurant keeping can therefore be 
seen to the best advantage where they are not on 
•exhibition, but pursued with the view of making 
money in the regular course. There are at present 
eight of these restaurants in New York. China in 
New York —The Delmonico’s is Hong Ping Lo’s, 
where one can order a “spread” of forty courses 
which it takes two days to eat and which can be 
had for the sum of $50, and provides enough for a 
party of six. Here is a meal for three at the Chi¬ 
nese Delmonico’s and the prices. We had tea, 
samsu (rice brandy), two kinds of wine; a dish of 
chow-chow-sucy, which is a pungent and palatable 
conception of chicken livers and gizzards, fungi, 
bamboo buds, bean sprouts, water chestnuts, and 
all manner of savory spices stewed together—a dish 
of cuttlefish, one of ducks’ breasts, chickens’ wings, 
pigeons’ wings, a bowl of rice, and a mooncake by 
way of sweets, and for this, with all the attendant 
•dishes of sauces and condiments, one pays $1.25. 
A full square meal, deliciously cooked, dainty and 
•delicate, for about 40 cents apiece or less, because 
there was enough on the dishes to have fed three or 
four more people. This fact is becoming known, 
and over five hundred Americans are regular cus¬ 
tomers at the Celestial eating house. They do not 
Avant them there, either, because they are too cheap. 
They study matters closely and manage to get their 
meals for about 10 cents, while the Chinese, who 
are all high livers, spend their money freely. The 
chef tit Hong Ping Lo’s is paid $ipo a month and all 
his expenses, which are enormous wages for China¬ 
town. Like all chefs, he is superior, haughty and 
somewhat capricious. The cooking is done on brick 
furnaces and with hickory' wood, and the half globes 
of iron set into the blazing coals cook the food with 
a rapidity that would startle an American cuisinier. 
The guest has the right to enter the kitchen and see 
if the cook is obeying orders, and if all the dishes 
desired are made from proper materials. This priv¬ 
ilege is eagerly utilized by Mongolian bon vivants, 
who frequently make rows over the stove or kettle 
that would petrify a French chef with amazement. 
But few dishes are ready made. Raw materials are 
prepared for almost every possible order, and sel¬ 
dom require more than five minutes in cooking. The 
Chinese system of eating lends itself well to this 
practice. All bulky foods are served and eaten in 
pieces not larger than the end of the thumb. A 
chicken’s heart, for example, is cut into four slices, 
the liver into eight, an onion is almost shredded, 


CHI 

while a pigeon breast is chopped into dice as small 
as a pea. Another aid to quick cooking is high 
heat. The almond eyed cook uses kiln dried hickory 
or oak for fuel, and makes so hot a fire that water 
over it explodes rather than boils, and oil becomes 
a seething mass of liquid and vapor. A dish served 
under this regime is never cold; usually it is red hot. 
Dishes are never served “by portion.” The guest 
estimates his appetite and orders accordingly. If 
not hungry he will order, for example, “five cents 
perfumed pork;” if possessing a good appetite, 10; 
if hungry, 15, and if famished, 20. The quantity 
ordered is measured out almost mathematically. 
Readers of the daily press know what strange 
dishes and stranger customs mark these eating 
houses. Menus ok Fifty Courses —Dinners that 
begin with candied fruits, and close with delicate 
soups and crystallized flowers; delicacies from 
Corea, Japan, Tonquin and Manchooria; liqueurs 
such as no chemist ever destilled. China at Home- 
The poorest family in China rarely sits down to 
a meal of less than three varieties of hot cooked 
food, and there are few more interesting sights than 
watching the preparation of the family meal. The 
boiler in which the staff of life in Southern China— 
rice—is prepared is made of the thinnest cast iron, 
so thin that a very slight tap is enough to fracture 
it, heated over an earthenware vessel, containing a 
few pieces of charcoal; and, directly the cooking is 
completed, each piece of charcoal is carefully lifted 
out, extinguised, and put away for future use. An 
enterprising European firm once thought to super¬ 
sede the “gimcrack” native pot by a good substantial 
article of Birmingham make; but the enterprise 
proved a failure. Chinese Dried Provisions— 
About 150 different dried substances were im¬ 
ported by them for use at the London exhibition. 
At the stalls in Canton dried ducks may be seen 
boned, flattened and so little changed by drying that 
it is possible to tell what kind they are. Rats are 
dried in like manner. There are castes and classes 
in China and some of these edibles are considered as 
belonging to the customary diet of the lower classes 
only. The special forte of the Chinese anywhere 
seems to be the utilization of all sorts of unpromis¬ 
ing materials for making tasty dishes; they are 
great also on sweets. Perfumed Roast Pork- —Is 
one of the dainties of the Chinese cuisine. The pork 
is roasted, and then hung in the smoke of various 
aromatic herbs, which gives it a delicious flavor. 
It is cut into small pieces that it may be readily 
handled with the chopsticks. China in London— 
Fastidious people will be relieved to hear that 
neither puppy-dog nor cat figures on the bill of fare. 
It would appear that a Chinese dinner is largely an 
affair of samples. First come hors d'ceuvre —minute 
shreds of salad, bits of sausage, and such like dain¬ 
ties. Chinese Soups— Birds-nest Clear — and 
Fishmau (? Fishmaw) k la Tortue (thick) served 
together in tiny slop basins. The former is made 
from the nest of a species of swallow gathered be- 






280 


TIIE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CHI 

fore the birds have soiled them. They are prepared 
by soaking' in Avater, thoroughly scoured to remove 
the dirt, and cut up into thin strips—these much re¬ 
sembling gelatine both in appearance and taste. 
They are considered a great delicacy by the Chinese 
and are very dear, the price being about $60 a pound. 
Made evidently Avith good chicken stock, theBird’s 
nest Soup Avas decidedly good. The FishmaAV bore 
no faint resemblance to mock turtle, and it, too, Avas 
palatable enough. Pekin Salmon Balls —Made 
of dried salmon pounded Avith rice, fried in oil. 
Pulmo —A fish dried. Siiaoshing Hot Wine or 
Samsiiu —This slightly alcoholic distillation from 
rice—the Chinese vin du pays —is someAvhat SAveet, 
is serA^ed hot from the kettle in little tea-cups, and 
to the uneducated palate is simply an abomination. 
As this beverage Avas sent round at two intervals of 
the dinner, Ave tried hard at the second sampling to 
discoA-er something attractive about it, but alto¬ 
gether failed. A felloAV diner, after pronouncing it 
to be “beastly stuff,” thought the taste for it might 
be acquired. But we fancy life is too short to 
acquire a taste for Shaosing Wine. Sharks’ Fins 
a la Pekinoise —is a toothsome kind of curry with 
rice. The fins of fishes and those of the shark in 
particular are largely utilized in the Chinese cuisine. 
They are smoked, pickled, or simply sun-dried, the 
bony portion being removed. The cartilaginous 
tissue is cut into thin strips, and either steAved Avith 
eggs or cooked as above. Chinese Crepinettes 
de Porc —Tasty morsels indeed and this entree 
would do credit to any chef. Pork, by the AA'ay, is 
the Chinaman’s favorite meat. Chinese Saveets— 
Amongst these, fried and candied potato chips and 
the nuts or seed of the Sacred Lotus “a la Helian- 
thus,” Avhatever that may mean. These nuts are 
Avhite and soft, not unlike filberts in flavor. Bech- 
de-Mer —trepang, or sea-slug (see cut page) enters 
largely into the composition of Chinese dishes. This 
uninviting-looking creature is fished from the deep 
sea and specially prepared for Celestial consump¬ 
tion. It ranges from six to fifteen inches long, is 
sometimes covered Avith spicules or prickles, and is 
sometimes quite smooth and Avith or Avithout teats 
or feet. There are several varieties, and the finest 
realize as much as $500 per ton in China where they 
are regarded as a prime delicacy. After boiling, 
the sea-slugs are cut open, gutted, and placed in 
drying sheds. Thus prepared they are in consistency 
and appearance not unlike indiarubber, and will 
keep for a great length of time. Made into tiny 
pies or cooked Avith truffles and served AvithMadeira 
sauce the sea-slug is by no means bad, and by a 
stretch — a long stretch—of the imagination one 
might suppose was eating turtle. Chinese Chop 
Soly— a savory ragout , knoAvn as chop soly, is as 
much the national dish of China as is the pot an feu 
of France or the olla fodrida of Spain. Its main 
components are pork, bacon, chicken, mushrooms, 
bamboo shoots, onions, and pepper. These are the 
characteristic ingredients; other incidental ones are 


CIIO 

duck, beef, perfumed turnip, salted black beans, 
sliced yam, peas, and string beans. No doubt a 
curious and Avonderful compound, but one that may 
be palatable withal. Chop Sticks—B efore each 
diner is placed a pair of ivory metal-tipped chop¬ 
sticks, and for those who cannot manipulate them 
the knives and forks of civilization. About the 
table, on the occasion of the inaugural luncheon, 
Avere distributed quaint and curious saucers, Ixnvls, 
etc., containing melon-seed, comfits, lotus-seeds, 
cubes of sugar-cane, preserved ginger, cakes, etc. 
Chinese Proverbs—A rdent disciples of Epicurus 
are to be found in the FloAvery Land as Avell as in 
the West, and that the kitchen is not undervalued 
as a ministrant to human happiness may be gathered 
from such Chinese proA-erbs as “Who eats well, 
thinks Avell, sleeps well, is Avell;” “The seat of the 
soul is the pit of the stomach;” “No saint AA r ith an 
empty stomach.” 

CHINESE MUTTON-Cold mutton cut in pieces, 
steAved Avith butter, onion, chopped lettuce, green 
peas, seasonings. Boiled rice for border; meat in 
the center. 

CHIP POTATOES—Potatoes shaved as thin as 
paper; fried dry in lard. 

CHIPPED BEEF-Dried and smoked beef shaved 
extremely thin; Chipped Beef in CREAM-Shaved 
dried beef parboiled, mixed in cream sauce. Friz¬ 
zled Beep— Dried-beef sha\ r ings warmed in butter. 

CIIIPOLATA—A garnish of Italian origin. 
Consisting of small round sausages, chestnuts,, 
mushrooms, pieces of bacon, carrots and turnips in 
a broAvn gravy with sherry. SerA'ed Avith \ r arious 
meats designated a la Chipo/ata. 

CHITTERLINGS —The intestines of the pig are 
prepared in France as folloA\ r s: Ha\’ing been thor¬ 
oughly Avell cleaned, they are pickled for from 6 to 
12 hours in a brine flavored AA r ith thyme, coriander 
and bay leaves; taken out, and the pieces of meat 
Avhich adhere to them are removed, cut up fine, and,. 
Avith the smaller guts also cut into strips, are intro¬ 
duced into a larger gut, Avhich when filled is tied at 
both ends. The Avhole is then cooked, great care- 
being taken to prevent the skin from bursting. They 
are again placed in brine for three Aveeks, after 
Avhich they are either smoked or kept in vinegar. 
Chitterlings are either broiled, fried or stewed to 
prepare them for the table. 

CHIVES—A kind of green onion-tops, slender,, 
pipe-like and deep green; used in soups and sauces.. 

CHOCOLATE—Is cocoa paste free from oil, or 
nearly so, and pressed into cakes. SAveet chocolate 
is sugar and cocoa pounded together, usually fla¬ 
vored Avith A r anilla, and pressed. Royal Cream 
Chocolate —A soft kind of chocolate in cans; a 
beverage. Chocolate Cakes—G rated chocolate, 
40Z.; pistachio nuts,4oz.; little sugar, vanilla, clove 
and cinnamon poAvdered; moistened with Avhites; 
baked in patty pans; decorated Avith cream, almonds, 








fHE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


281 


CIIO 

preserves. Chocolate PuDDiNG-Like pound cake, 
with chocolate mixed in; i lb. butter, i lb. sugar, io 
eggs, 2 oz. unsweetened chocolate, 14 oz. flour; 
steamed; chocolate cream for sauce. Chocolate 
Meringue —A chocolate custard baked; the whites 
used to frost it over; eaten cold. ChocolateJklly- 
A substitute for jelly for layer cakes; chocolate, 
sugar and thick cream boiled; used cold. Couronne 
au Chocolat —A crown or border mould of choco¬ 
late Bavarian, the interior filled with whipped cream, 
garnished with crystalized fruits. Souffle au 
Chocolat —Chocolate, sugar, flour, cream and yolks 
beaten together; the whipped whites added; baked 
in small cases; to be served immediately. Choco¬ 
late Souffle Pudding— Specialty of a hotel chef 
in Germany. Made of 4 oz. each flour and sugar, 
2 oz. each butter and chocolate, % pint milk (a cup); 
all made into a paste over the fire; cooked; vanilla 
added, and 4 yolks; mixture beaten 10 minutes; 
whites whipped stiff added last; baked; served soon 
as done. Chocolate Transparent Icing-CIioco- 
late melted by heat in a little syrup and well worked 
together; boiling syrup added; used hot. Choco¬ 
late [Candy] Creams —Made of fonda?it sugar 
cast in starch moulds, then dipped in melted choco¬ 
late and cooled on glazed paper; glazed or varnished 
with an alcoholic solution of gum benzoin. Clioco- 
colate Whip —A variety of whipped cream to 
serve in cups, made of 1 qt. rich cream, 1 qz. un¬ 
sweetened chocolate, S oz. sugar; scalded to boiling 
point; cooled; 4 whites added; whipped, and cream 
and froth served cold. Chocolate Macaroons— 
Best made of granulated sugar, 1 lb. to 4 whites, 
worked with a paddle as for icing; 3 oz. grated un¬ 
sweetened chocolate stirred in; dropped on paper; 
slack baked. Chocolate Meringues— Same as 
macaroons baked on wetted paper on boards; no 
bottom crust; two together like eggs. Chocolate 
Pipe Icing —Chocolate melted by heat only poured 
into white icing; used to decorate cakes on the plain 
surface. Chocolate a la \ oltaire —This bever¬ 
age was first invented by Voltaire, who constantly 
for his breakfast partook of half cafe au la it and 
half chocolate, which were served at the same time 
in separate vessels in a boiling state, and poured 
from each slowly about 18 inches in elevation from 
the cup, being thus rendered extremely light and 
digestible. Bavarois au Chocolat— See cremes. 
Chocolate Ice Cream— Dissolved chocolate in hot 
milk added to sweetened cream; frozen. White 
Chocolate Ice Cream — Roasted cocoa beans 
bruised and steeped in hot milk, which is then used 
to flavor the cream or custard to be frozen. Choco¬ 
late with Whipped Cream— “The refreshments 
here, as in all Berlin cafes, aie most varied, a favorite 
consummation being milk-coffee iced, with whipped 
cream on the top. Chocolate is served also with a 
thick top of whipped cream, and a basket of pastry 
is always placed on the table with the cup.” 

CHOPS—All the slices of mutton that can be cut 
on both sides of the spine bone from the neck to the 


CIIO 

hip. The first choice are the rib chops, the shortened 
ribs giving an advantageous shape; the loin chops 
are even better eating; they are cut from the saddle 
of mutton. English Mutton Chops — Double 
thickness; the meat of two with but one bone. 
Barnsley Chops— Restaurant specialty. A sample 
sent to an editor who had heard of them weighing 
1 Yz lbs. “It is usual to boil them 5 minutes before 
placing them on the grill, as, owing to their thick¬ 
ness, they would otherwise be black outside before 
being cooked in the middle. The plan is always to 
.have some chops ready-boiled, so that they may be 
grilled off as ordered, and by this means they are 
dished as soon as an ordinary chop—by the time the 
tea is made, or the chip pototoes ready for serving. 
Although half cooked, perhaps, the day before 
grilling, a Barnsley chop is still fresh cooked, has 
more gravy in it than the ordinary mutton chop, and 
is more satisfying for a hungry customer.” 

CHOP HOUSES—English chop houses are grow¬ 
ing in favor in New York. In this case it is not due 
to Anglomania, but to the solid comforts that can be 
enjoyed at the regulation chop houses. In a certain 
locality there are five of these little hostelries that 
do an immense business all day long, and are open 
most of the night. They do not serve oysters or 
pastry of any sort. They sell chops, Welsh rare¬ 
bits, steaks, egg on toast, and ales and wines. The 
dishes are cooked with uncommon skill, and every¬ 
thing is served with the utmost neatness. 

CIIOUX (Fr.)—Cabbage. 

CHOUX DE BRUXELLES (Fr.)—Brussells 
sprouts. 

CIIOUXFLEURS (Fr.)—Cauliflower. 

CHOUX PASTE—The same paste of which the 
familiar Boston cream puffs are made; it is called 
pate a c/ioux in French, is used in a few forms about 
meats and in soups, and varied by having a slight 
addition of sugar and vanilla it forms two or three 
varieties of eclairs. (See cream puffs.) 

CHOW-CHOW—Mixed pickles thickened with 
scalded mustard; can he bought cheapest by the keg 
for hotel use, or made cheaply where there are plenty 
of vegetables. 

CHOWDER—Fish chowder is an ancient dish 
which has undergone alleged improvements. It is, 
originally, a sailors’ stew, consisting only of fat salt 
pork, onions, potatoes, crackers, water, salt and pep¬ 
per; stewed in a covered pot. 

AN OLD RECIPE, DATED 1S34. 

To make a good chowder and have it quite nice, 
Dispense with sweet marjoram parsley and spice; 
Mace, pepper and salt are now wanted alone. 

To make the stew eat well and stick to the bone, 
Some pork is sliced thin and put into the pot; 

Some sav you must turn it, some say you must not; 
And when it is brown, take it out of the fat, 

And add it again when you add this and that. 

A layer of potatoes, sliced quarter inch thick, 
Should be placed in the bottom to make it eat slick; 
A layer of onions now over this place, 

Then season with pepper and salt and some mace. 







282 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CHR 

Split open your crackers and give them a soak. 

In eating you’ll find this the cream of the joke. 

On top of all this, now comply with my wish, 

And put, in large chunks, all your pieces of fish; 
Then put on the pieces of pork you have fried—_ 

I mean those from which all the fat has been tried. 
In seasoning I pray you, don’t spare the cayenne; 
’Tis this makes it fit to be eaten by men. 

After adding these things in their reg’lar rotation, 
You’ll have a dish fit for the best of the nation. 

—AW^-Fish-broth and milk are to be added. Con¬ 
gress Chowder —“Every spring these parties of 
Congressmen and officials used to go down the Po¬ 
tomac on the old steamer Salem to the fishing grounds 
and enjoy freshly caught shad, opened, nailed to 
oaken boards, and cooked before large wood fires. 
On one of these occasions Mr. Webster had obtained 
from Boston some rock cod, crackers and salt pork, 
and he made a chowder. He had a large kettle, and 
having fried his scraps, he deposited the successive 
layers of fish, crackers and potatoes and onions over 
and over until there was no more room. Then pour¬ 
ing in a half gallon of milk he rubbed his hands, ex¬ 
claiming: “Now for the fire. As Mrs. Macbeth 
said: ‘If ’tis to be done when ’tis done, then ’tis 
well ’twere done quickly.’ ” I quote from memory, 
but I shall never forget his joyous expression of 
countenance and the merry twinkle of his deep-set, 
burning black eyes. The chowder was a success, 
and so was a medicinal preparation of Santa Cruz 
rum, brandy, a dash of arrack, loaf sugar, lemons 
and strong iced tea. No one who ever drank 
‘ Marshfield Punch ’ forgot its seductive excellence, 
but some found to their sorrow that it had a fearful 
kick.” Chowder Soup —A fish soup made thinner 
than the real chowder, which is a thick stew, is 
served on fish days in many hotels. {See clams.') 

CHRISTMAS PUDDING—Boiled plum pud¬ 
ding, made of i lb. each bread-crumbs, suet, rai¬ 
sins, currants, sugar; % lb. each citron and almonds; 
i lemon, i orange, rind and juice; pint each 
brandy and sherry; i nutmeg, little salt, S eggs, 
cream enough to moisten. Mixed up a day before 
cooking; put in bag or mould and boiled io hours. 
Warm brandy poured over, set on fire and sent so 
to table with hard sauce. 

CHUCK RIBS—Of beef, the coarser rib meat 
nearest the neck. Chuck Steaks —Shoulder steaks. 

CHUMP—An inferior cut of beef; the cut back 
of the hip bone. 

CHUM—A sort of gizzard found in the white- 
fish of the great lakes, which feeds on small shell¬ 
fish; the chums are reserved by the salters and 
esteemed a delicacy. 

CHUTNEY—An East Indian sweet pickle; can 
be purchased at the fancy grocery stores. {See 
Bengal , Indian.) “And mango chutney, another 
and characteristically Singhalese condiment, among 
the ingredients of which I think are fresh-grated 
cocoanut and chillies carefully brayed together in a 
mortar. This chutney is of a rich roseate hue; and 
after eating it with his prawn curry, the epicure 
feels like the Grand Turk.” 


CIN 

CIDER—The pure, unsophisticated juice of the 
apple, fermented and matured to a certain degree. 
Where the highest quality is desired, as for cham¬ 
pagne cider, the fruit is crushed between granite 
rollers to avoid contact with metal at any stage, 
and the juice extracted in a wooden press. The 
cider is, of course, not fit for immediate consump¬ 
tion, but requires a period varying from a few 
months to even a year or two to mature. The dif¬ 
ference as to appearance and flavor between the 
crude apple-juice in the first stages of its fermenta¬ 
tion and the thoroughly ripened liquor, is almost 
marvellous. Taken from the wood, the well-ma¬ 
tured cider, which has been stored for a period of 
two years or more, loses every trace of rawness and 
develops a full fine dry flavor, not unlike some of 
the best Continental light wines. To judge of a 
good sample of cider, it should have the bright and 
clear appearance of a first-class sauterne, and show 
no tendency, with climatic changes, to become 
cloudy or viscous. It approaches wine in many 
respects, and indeed bears favorable comparison 
with any cheap champagne at one-fourth its price. 
Cider for Cooking —Good cider is the proper 
substitute for wine in all cases where that article is 
called for in culinary operations; good cider, indeed,, 
is far better for cooking fish, soups, game, hams, 
and sauces, than the heavily adulterated wines 
which, now flood the market. Imitation Cider— 
Is manufactured in enormous quantities for the pur¬ 
pose of a cheap drink to retail; the least objection¬ 
able of it is made from dried apples. It costs the 
retailers less than i cent a glass. {See Burr- Oak.} 

CIGARETTES OF MEAT—French caterers’ 
specialty. Finely minced chicken, or any other 
kind of meat, seasoned with aromatic salt, rolled up- 
in paste, baked light color; long, slender. 

CINNAMON AND CASSIA—The government 
chemists, investigating the adulterations of food, 
say: “These spices are the barks of several species 
of the genus cinnamonum, the true cinnamon being 
a native of Ceylon, where it is largely cultivated, 
and the cassias being derived from several other 
species growing in China, India and the East 
Indies. Cinnamon as it reaches the market is very 
thin, the outer and inner coats of the bark having 
been removed. Cassja, on the other hand, is thick, 
as it consists of the entire bark, and can be distin¬ 
guished by its retaining its natural outer surface. 
Cinnamon is by far more valuable than the cassia, 
as there is a smaller supply and intrinsically it con¬ 
tains a much greater proportion of volatile oil, and 
that of higher and more delicate aroma. In con¬ 
sequence cassia is largely substituted for cinnamon, 
and, in fact, not a particle of ground cinnamon can 
be found in the market. It can be found in the 
whole condition in good quality only in drug stores. 
Cassia exists in many forms and qualities, and sells 
at wholesale at from 7 to 40 cents a pound. That 
known as Saigon is the best and that exported from 
Batavia the poorest. Cassia buds also hold a small 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


283 


CIS 

place in tlie market. The detection of the substitu¬ 
tion of cassia for cinnamon, since the barks are of 
trees of the same species, is more difficult than is 
usually the case and may prove troublesome to a 
novice. The presence of more woody fiber in the 
latter with the aid of chemical analysis serves, how¬ 
ever, as a reliable distinction. In the samples which 
have come into our hands not a particle of material 
labeled ground cinnamon proved to be anything 
other than cassia. The spice millers appeared, 
however, to be satisfied to stop at this point and in 
only one case was there addition of cheap stuff to 
the cassia. When added there is no difficulty in 
detecting it as has been done here and in Canada, 
where peas, starch, ground shells and crackers have 
been found in powder labeled both cassia and 
cinnamon. The barks can, in most cases, and 
especially the cinnamon, be used nearly as well in 
the Avhole condition, and should at least be so pur¬ 
chased and then ground. A slight acquaintance 
with the appearance of the different qualities will 
teach one the proper selection to make.” 

CISCO—A small fish, a fresh-water herring 
abundant in the lakes of the northwest. The flesh 
is white, parts in fillets from the spine like the flesh 
of the brook trout, and is as free from small bones. 

CITRON (Fr.)—Lemon. 

CITRON—A large and coarse fruit of the lemon 
family, produced in warm latitudes; used only in 
the form of candied citron peel. This is boiled in 
water to extract the bitterness; then boiled in syrup 
and dried. 

CITRON MELON—A small green melon of the 
gardens, the “apple-pie melon,” used for cooking 
and for preserving, and is boiled in flavored syrup 
and dried in imitation of the West India peel. 

CITRON CAKE—One pound butter, i pound 
sugar, twelve eggs, i nutmeg grated, 3 tablespoons 
rose-water, 1 pound flour, 1 pound citron thinly 
sliced. At least 20 different variations are made 
with citron, in the different cake mixtures; either in 
shreds mixed, or scattered over the surface of the 
icing, or laid on top of cakes before baking; mixed 
with other fruit for plum cakes or puddings, and in 
compound ice creams. 

CITRIC ACID—One of the acids used in effer¬ 
vescing powders, in making lemonade without 
lemons; and in small quantities it is used in making 
acid candies and boiling sugar. 

CIVET (Fr.)— A game stew. Civet of Ven¬ 
ison —Pieces cut size of an egg, lightly fried with 
cubes of salt pork; flour added, claret and broth; 
stewed; small onions and mushrooms to finish. 
Civet de Chevreuil — Same as the foregoing. 
Civet de Lievre —Stewed hare; in England called 
jugged hare, and after the first frying with salt pork 
the cooking is finished in a covered jar in the oven 
with port wine and broth. Civet de Lapin —Civet 


CLA 

of rabbit, or rabbit stewed with wine, mushrooms, 
onions; salt pork and herbs. 

CLAMS — The late Sam Ward could probably 
have named a dozen different ways of cooking the 
delicious bivalve — for a clam is a bivalve—and 
would have named Chateau Yquem as the wine to 
take with clams. The most esteemed kind in New 
York is the “ Little Neck” clam (so called from a 
neck of land on Long Island Sound, where they 
abound), a small round clam of a charming flesh 
color. It is served on the half-shell, raw, as the first 
course in dinners of the highest order. It is eaten 
off the half-shell at every corner along the wharves 
of New York. There are “soft-shell” clams, too, 
and there are “razor-back clams,” the secrets of the 
cooking whereof are known unto the “Ichthyophag¬ 
ous Club.” “Clam chowder” would tickle the pal¬ 
ate of a London alderman, and in the proper con¬ 
fection thereof the great Daniel Webster excelled. 
“Clam bakes” are an occasion of much festivity on 
the New England coast; but Rhode Island has a 
proud pre-eminence for these feasts. The large 
kind called quahogs are only part eatable; that part, 
which looks like a string, is used mostly in soups 
and chowder, but is fried as well. Soft-Shell 
Clams —A large kind having a brittle crumbly shell, 
not soft and eatable like a soft crab’s; they are good 
for fries and broils. Fried Clams— The same 
ways as fried oysters. Stewed Clams —Same as 
oysters. Scalloped Clams —They are usually 
served in their shells, which are of a good shape for 
the purpose; scalded first, they are taken up, and a 
thick white sauce is made of their liquor; the clams 
put back in it, spoonfuls in shells breaded over the 
top, and browned in the oven. — Roasted in the 
shells, and steamed, they are treated and served as 
oysters. Clam Chowder —The same thing with 
clams as fish chowder. Tunnison Clam Chowder- 
A seaside hotel-keeper’s specialty; a chowder con¬ 
taining tomatoes and herbs, such as thyme, marjo¬ 
ram and parsley in addition to the regular ingre¬ 
dients. “Sam Ward” used to say: “Don’t put salt 
pork in your clam chowder.” Coney Island Clam 
Chowder —Like the foregoing; a thick soup or thin 
stew containing tomatoes, clams, onions, potatoes, 
bay leaf, herbs, etc., started by frying the main in¬ 
gredients together until half-cooked, then adding 
broth and little wine. Boston Clam Chowder— 
A white, thick soup with potatoes, clams, etc.; no 
tomatoes. Baked Chowder —Sort of sea-pie; the 
original pork, onions, potatoes, clams, crackers, 
water, or milk, and seasonings without much liquor; 
baked brown on top. Canned Chowder —It is put 
up in cans; the plain variety of chowder, and only 
needs to have crackers and more liquor added, or to¬ 
mato soup added. Clam Fritters —(/)-The best 
are made of chopped clams mixed in egg batter 
dropped in hot lard by spoonfuls; served with a cream 
sauce. (2)-Clams whole, parboiled, dipped in batter 
and fried. Clam Croquettes — Parboiled and 
minced clams, with onions, mace, pepper, in a thick 







284 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CL A 

sauce over the fire; thickened with yolks; cooled; 
pieces roiled, breaded, fried. Clam Soups —Same 
as oysters. 

CLARET SAUCE—For puddings; made with % 
pint claret, 2 eggs, 2 oz. sugar, lemon rind, cinna¬ 
mon; whisked over the fire till it thickens; not 
boiled. 

CLEAR SOUPS—These are, or should be, meat- 
essences clarified and strained from all solid par¬ 
ticles and having morsels of meat, vegetables or 
compounds in ornamental shapes added. They are 
named in detail under their French name. (See con¬ 
sommes.') 

CLOVES—The flower buds of the clove tree, 
carefully picked and dried, constitute the spice 
known by that name. Their valuable properties are 
•due to the volatile oil, which they contain, the best 
having as much as 10 per cent. The removal of this 
oil is so very easy that it is the commonest method 
of deception to do so before grinding the spice and 
to then dispose of it as pure. The addition of the 
cheaper clove stems is also practiced, as they cost 
but 6 cents when the buds cost 27. Pimento is 
sometimes substituted in part or entirely, as it has a 
clove-like flavor, but only 4 or 5 per cent, of volatile 
oil. It is worth less than one-fifth the price of cloves- 
Cloves should, if possible, be always purchased 
whole, as they deteriorate less readily in that form. 

CLOVE SYRUP—For flavoring apple pies and 
punches; made of 2 oz. crushed cloves, steeped in 
1 Yt pts. water 3 days; water strained off, and boiled 
with 1 lb. sugar. 

COBOURG PUDDING—Hotel specialty. Made 
■of 1 lb. sifted, white, stale bread crumbs, 1 lb. but¬ 
ter, 1 lb. sugar, 8 eggs; mixed up like pound cake, 
the crumbs instead of flour; steamed in a mould 2 
hours; for sauce currant jelly, diluted with wine hot. 

COCOA—It is certain that the Spanish discoverers 
Pizarro and Cortes learned its use in the Court of 
Montezuma, and they doubtless brought a knowl¬ 
edge of this nutritious nut into Europe. Cocoa (or 
more properly, ca-cao) plant has great wax-like 
leaves and resembles a small magnolia tree. Upon 
its trunk and large limbs there appear semi-annuaily 
a large number of wart-like protuberances, about as 
large as the smallest pineapple. At first they are 
green, but when they get red the natives pick them 
off, crush them in a rude machine, and take from 
each a handful of seeds about the size and shape of 
a Lima bean. This is the cocoa. When the beans 
are thoroughly dried in the sun, they are shipped to 
the market in gunny sacks, where the chocolate 
manufacturer gets hold of them. The first operation 
consists of carefully picking and sorting the beans, 
the next in roasting them, after which they are 
crushed and winnowed, which reduces them to the 
familiar form of cocoa nibs. After the nibs have 
been carefully ground through warm mills, a por¬ 
tion of the cocoa-butter is extracted. This is valu- 


coc 

able for its medicinal qualities. When thft first oily 
extract is removed, the grinding of the cocoa residue 
proceeds until. it has a creamy consistency, which, 
when cold, assumes the familiar form of pure cocoa. 
This, however, is too rich in fatty matter for most 
stomachs, and in order to prepare the well-known 
cocoa extract, the cocoa is placed under enormous 
pressure—1,200 lbs. to the square inch. This ex¬ 
presses all the remaining cocoa-butter. The dry 
mass is then taken out, ground, reground, and sifted 
through seives. This reduces the cocoa to a beauti- 
fully fine impalpable powder that constitutes the 
well-known “ Cocoa Extract,” which contains all 
the virtues and aroma of the original nut without 
its oleaginous drawbacks. 

COCOANUT—The fruit of the cocoa-palm. 
Since the introduction of the desiccated cocoanut the 
uses have increased to an astonishing degree. 
Cocoanut Pie or Pudding— Fresh grated cocoa- 
nut, butter, sugar, 4 oz. of each, 4 whites, glass 
brandy, 1 teaspoon orange-water; in a pastry crust. 
Cocoanut Gingerbread —Made of 1 cup molasses, 

cup sugar, cup butter, 2 ]/ 2 cups flour. 4 oz. de¬ 
siccated cocoanut, 3 teaspoons powder, ginger; 
baked in cake pans. Cocoanut Macaroons—(/)- 
Desiccated cocoanut, 8 oz.; sugar, 2 oz.; 2 whites 
stirred together; small drops on paper; light baked. 
(2)-Same way and weights as chocolate macaroons; 
cocoanut for chocolate. Cocoanut Tapioca Pud¬ 
ding— Tapioca, S oz.; milk, 1 qt.; sugar, 4 oz.; eggs, 
6 ; cocoanut, 4 oz.; baked. Cocoanut Sponge 
Cakes —Small sponge cakes the usual way with 
little less flour and cocoanut i n its place. Cocoanut 
Small-Cakes —Three cups sugar; 1 cup each but¬ 
ter, milk, cocoanut; 2 eggs; 2 spoons powder; flour 
to make dough to roll out; sugar on top before bak¬ 
ing. Cocoanut Madeleines —Small pound cakes 
dipped in diluted jam and rolled in grated cocoanut. 
Cocoanut Genoises— Jelly cake with jelly on top 
and cocoanut upon that. Cocoanut Jelly-Roll — 
Outside of roll wetted with diluted jelly, rolled in 
cocoanut mixed with sugar. Imperial Cocoanut - 
Cake —Like Savoy cake with cocoanut; made of 
1 lb. each sugar and cocoanut; yolks to make stiff 
paste; 9 whites, whipped firm, stirred in alternately 
with S oz. flour; baked in long tins; sugar over. 
Cocoanut Ice Cream —Desiccated or fresh, stirred 
into the custard while hot, then frozen; best is fresh, 
grated in pure cream; not boiled. It is mixed also 
in banana ice-cream, in corn-starch pudding, in 
blanc mange, in orange pies, etc., etc. 

COCOANUT OIL — Used to adulterate butter 
and lard. The first attempts to use it so failed on 
account of its strong flavor; that is now removed 
by injecting sprays of steam in the oil for severa^ 
hours, which results in deodorizing it. 

COCOANUT SHELLS—Used largely in the 
adulteration of ground pepper and other spices. The 
government analysts cite an instance of a New York 
firm having in a short time used and put upon the 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


285 


coc 

market more than 5,000 lbs. of cocoanut shells in 
their spices. 

COCOTTE—A cup or deep dish for cooking eggs 
in. Eggs a la Cocotte —Eggs in buttered cocotte- 
cups with a spoonful of cream on top, same as 
shirred eggs except that they are steamed instead of 
baked. 

COCHINEAL—Used for coloring; is an insect 
which lives upon the stems of a plant in Mexico. 

COCHON (Fr.)-*—Pig. Cochon de Lait —Suck¬ 
ing pig. Cochon de Lait a la Chipolata —Suck- 
ing pig stuffed with chestnuts and sausage, served 
with a Chipolata garnish. Cochon de Lait en 
Oalantine —A sucking pig boned, stuffed, braised, 
served hot. Pate Froid de Cochon de Lait —A 
■cold raised pie of the English pork-pie order, made 
with sucking pig. 

COCKIE-LEEKIE SOUP-See Scottish Cookery. 

COCKLES—A small sort of scallops; used as a 
substitute for oysters and shrimps in fish sauces; 
eaten raw with vinegar and plainly boiled in salt 
water. Cockle Patties —Same as oysters and 
clams. “Cockles, which come in season this month, 
are excellent pickled or in patties. We are told that 
from Morecambe Bay alone, £20,000 worth of these 
■delicious little shell-fish are taken every year.” 

COCKSCOMBS — Frequently mentioned and 
commended for use in foreign recipes, and one of 
the principal reliances for ornamental finishes to 
elaborate hot dishes; may be obtained in bottles and 
cans at the fancy grocery stores. They are the 
■combs and wattles of yearling chickens, blanched 
peeled and stewed. 

COD—Is in season every month in the year; is at 
its best in mid-winter. The head and shoulders are 
considered the best parts and are generally boiled; 
the thinner parts being sliced and fried. Codfish 
Stewed with Onions —Slices in butter-sauce with 
chopped onions. Cod a l’Indienne —Slices of cod 
baked with butter and seasonings and a curry sauce 
poured over, made of 2 onions, 1 carrot and 1 apple, 
sliced and fried in butter; flour, stock, anchovy and 
curry added; parsley and lemon garnish. Curried 
Cod —Slices of cod fried with onions, gravy added, 
curry powder, cayenne, butter, cream, flour, salt. Ca- 
billaud a la Hollandaise —The thick part boiled, 
served with Hollandaise sauce. Cabillaud Re- 
crepi, Sauce aux Huitres— Crimped cod, boiled, 
oyster sauce. Cabillaud Farci au Four— Cod 
stuffed and baked. Cabillaud a la Portugaise— 
•Codfish steaks floured and fried; tomato sauce fla¬ 
vored with anchovy. Cabillaud Grille a la 
CoLBERT-Steaks broiled, spread with maitre d'hotel 
butter; potato balls around. Cabillaud a la 
Creme— Boiled cod picked apart in flakes, in cream 
sauce, dredged with parsley dust, or a la creme au 
jrratin , covered with bread-crumbs and browned. 
Codfish Baked a la New Bedford— The fish 
split and laid open, marinaded in oil and seasonings, 


COF 

drained, buttered, bread-crumbed, baked; wine or 
cider and oyster liquor in the pan for sauce. Cod¬ 
fish Boiled, Flemish Sauce— Fresh cod boiled 
in salted water acidulated with vinegar, drained, 
dished up on a folded napkin surrounded with pars¬ 
ley leaves; sauce separate made of butter-sauce 
yellow with mustard and egg yoiks. Cod a la 
Provencale —Pieces of cold fish mingled with shal¬ 
lots, chives, oil, pepper, salt, lemon peel, nutmeg; 
baked, sprinkled with lemon juice. Codfish Cro¬ 
quettes —Cold fish and oysters chopped together, 
bread-crumbs, cream, pepper, salt; made up in balls, 
breaded and fried. Dried Cod —When the cod is 
dried on the downs it is called dun-fish, from the 
Gaelic root duin, a hill. If dried on the rocks, it 
becomes rock-cod, or the klipp-fish of the Nor¬ 
wegians. Among these the cod is called torsk— in 
English tusk, from the Gothic duerren, to dry. The 
well-known Aberdeen fish, or French laberdan , is 
from the Gaelic abar, the mouth, and dan, a river— 
a fish caught near the river-mouth. Heraldic de¬ 
signs of ancient pattern bearing devices of fishes 
are well known, and the king of the Danes has a 
representation of the dried cod upon his coat-of- 
arms. Corned Cod, Ling or Haddock —A fish 
split open and laid in salt for three days, then dried 
for two days, is excellent broiled. Morue au Gra- 
tin —Salt cod in cream sauce, cheese, bread-crumbs 
and butter on top; baked. Brandade de Morue— 
Salt cod in butter-sauce, oil and garlic; finely 
chopped before stirring in the sauce. Cods Sounds- 
Are to be bought at most provision stores; they are 
in barrels, salted, and raquire 24 hours’ soaking; 
they are then boiled in milk and water, and when 
tender dressed in all ways same as salt or fresh fish, 
broiled, spread with forcemeat; fried in batter, etc. 
Cod Roe —Is parboiled in salt water with vinegar, 
cut in slices, dipped in batter and fried, or egged 
and breaded. Smoked Cod Roe —Breakfast relish; 
soaked, sliced, fried a little, served on toast. Cod¬ 
fish Balls —One-half boiled salt cod, one-half po¬ 
tatoes, egg yolk and pepper to bind and season, run 
through a meat grinder, balled up, rolled in flour; 
fried. Codfish ball preparation r eady for use can 
be bought in cans; needs only balling and frying; 
will bear more potatoes added. Codfish Fritters 
—Codfish ball mixture with more eggs added, little 
butter and chopped parsley, dropped from spoon 
into hot lard. What the Cod Eats —“The dredge 
is considered usually by naturalists to be the best 
implement with which to obtain information upon 
deep-sea life, but Professor Baird says that the 
stomach of the cod is the best of all dredges, for it 
usually contains morsels of every sort of marine 
resident within reach; while only a few weeks 
since a theatre-programme was found in the stom¬ 
ach of one. With a high-born contempt for the re¬ 
quirements of trade, the cod feeds upon herring and 
mackerel extensively, being also somewhat partial 
to lobsters.” 

COFFEE QUOTATIONS—For menus: 





286 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


COF 

“Coffee! O coffee! Faith, it is surprising, 

’Mid all the poets, good and bad and worse, 
Who’ve scribbled (Hock and China eulogizing) 
Post and papyrus with ‘immortal verse’ — 
Melodiously similitudinizing 
In Sapphics languid or Alcaics terse— 

No one, my little brown Arabian berry, 

Hath sung thy praises—’tis surprising, very!” 

—“In 1652 the first coffee-house was opened in New¬ 
man’s Court, Cornhill, London, by a Greek named 
Pasquet. This man was the servant of an English 
merchant named Edwards, who brought some coffee 
with him from Smyrna, and whose house, when the 
fact became known, was so thronged with friends 
and visitors to taste the new beverage that, to relieve 
himself from annoyance, Edwards established his 
servant in a coffee-house. Once tasted, coffee 
sprang into popular and imperishable favor, and it 
is curious to refer back to the opinions expressed 
concerning it by wits and dignitaries at different 
periods. “If j’ou want to improve your understand¬ 
ing, drink coffee,” said Sydney Smith. Sir James 
Mackintosh professed that he believed the difference 
between one man and another was produced by the 
quantity of coffee he drank. Pope was among con¬ 
firmed coffee-drinkers, often calling up his servant 
in the middle of the night to prepare a cup for him. 
It was the custom in his day to grind and prepare 
it upon the table, of which practice he gives the fol¬ 
lowing details in verse: 

For lo! the board with cups and spoons is crowned, 
The berries crackle, and the mill turns round; 

On shining altar of Japan they raise 
The silver lamp; the fiery spirits blaze. 

From silver spouts the grateful liquors glide, 

While China’s earth receives the smoking tide. 

At once they gratify their sense and taste, 

And frequent cups prolong the rich repast. 

Coffee! which makes the politician wise, 

And see through all things with his half-shut eyes.’> 

—“From th & Spectator we learn who frequented the 
houses, and the ‘Grecian,’ ‘Squire’s,’ ‘Searle’s’ have 
become immortal. In Queen Anne’s time, so it is 
said, there were three thousand coffee-houses. It 
was ‘Will’s’ coffee-house, William Urwin being 
the proprietor, of No. 1 Bow Street, which was 
‘sacred to polite letters.' Pope frequented Will’s, 
as did Steele. Tickell, Budgell, Prior, Gage and 
Halifax went to Button’s coffee-house in Covent 
Garden. Then, too, ‘Garroway’ was headquarters 
for surgeons and apothecaries, as ‘ Child’s ’ was the 
haunt of the physicians. Sir Isaac Newton was in 
a brown study at the Grecian. Swift sought the 
‘St.James,’ and it was at ‘Lloyd’s ’ where the placid 
Addison sometimes sipped his coffee. With the 
coffee-houses sprang in opposition the chocolate- 
houses, the most celebrated of which were ‘White’s’ 
and ‘The Cocoa Tree.’ The taverns of the time of 
Queen Anne were thronged. Good people cracked 
their bottles there and dined and supped, and bullies 
kicked the drawer and invented new oaths and 
curses. ‘The Devil and the Dragon,’ ‘The Rum¬ 
mer,’ ‘Crown and Anchor,’ ‘The Mitre,’ ‘The 
Cock,’ immortalized by Tennyson; ‘The Boar’s 


COF 

Head,’ ‘The Three Cranes,,’ drew many gallant 
fellows together in the first half of the last century.” 

“Yes, the wine’s a wayward child— 

This the cup that ‘draws it mild.’ 

Deeply drink the stream divine; 

Fill the cup, but not with wine— 

Potent port or fiery sherry. 

For this milder cup of mine 

Crush me Yemen’s fragrant berry.” 

—“ It contains sufficient stimulating properties to re¬ 
store an exhausted system without having the power 
to intoxicate. Even in its early days an old writer 
of the seventeenth century claims for the beverage 
this virtue when he thus quaintly descants upon its 
various merits: ‘Surely it must needs be salutifer- 
ous, because so many sagacious and the wittiest 
sort of nations use it so much. But besides its ex- 
siccant quality it tends to dry up the crudities of the 
stomach, as also to comfort the brain, to fortifie the 
sight with its steeme, and it is found already that 
this coffee-drink has caused a greater sobriety 
among the nations. For whereas formerly appren¬ 
tices and clerks with others used to take their morn¬ 
ing draft in ale, beer, or wine, which by the dizzi¬ 
ness they cause in the head make many unfit for 
businesse, they use now to play the good-fellowes 
in this wakefull and civill-drink.’ ” — “A compan¬ 
ion once remarked to Voltaire that coffee ‘was a 
slow poison,’ when the great wit and coffee-drinker 
replied: ‘It must be very slow, for I have been 
drinking it for seventy years.’ ” Coffee and the 
KoRAN-“Coffee advanced rapidly from the Red Sea 
and the Nile to Syria, and from Asia Minor to Con¬ 
stantinople, where the first coffee-house was opened 
in 1554, and soon called forth a number of rival es¬ 
tablishments. But here also the zealots began to 
murmur at the mosques being neglected for the at¬ 
tractions of the ungodly coffee divans, and de¬ 
claimed against it from the Koran, which positively 
says that coal is not of the number of things created 
by God for good. Accordingly the mufti ordered 
the coffee-houses to be closed; but his successor de¬ 
claring coffee not to be coal, unless when over¬ 
roasted, they were allowed to re-open, and ever since 
the most pious mussulman drinks his coffee without 
any scruple of conscience.” First New York 
Cafe —“When, in 1832, the physicians in the city 
urged all to abstain from drinking beer and wine, 
and to drink pure coffee, in order to avoid the epi¬ 
demic of colera that was then raging, a large and 
convenient coffee-house was opened by the famous 
restaurateur George Washington Browne on the 
first floor of what was known as the ‘Auction Ho¬ 
tel,’ in Water Street. The place soon became known 
as ‘ Browne’s Coffee-House,’ and was a most popu¬ 
lar dining resort for merchants. On the south-east 
corner of what are now Pine and William Streets 
there stood from 1812 to 1S30 the Bank Coffee-House, 
kept by William Niblo.” Hints to Coffee- 
Drinkers —“Raw coffee (the unroasted berry), if 
kept in a dry place, improves with age. Those who 
wish to enjoy coffee in perfection should have it 











.THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK 


287 


COF 

fresh roasted. Roasted coffee should be kept in an 
air-tight vessel; the Viennese prefer a glass-bottle 
to a canister. Coffee is very absorbent, and, accord¬ 
ing to good authorities, should at no time come into 
contact with metal. A mill, though convenient, is 
not essential. The Turks do not grind their coffee, 
but pound it in a mortar with wooden pestles. 
Brillat-Savarin, the great French epicure, who tried 
both pounded and ground coffee, preferred the 
former. One ounce coffee to a pint of water makes 
poor coffee; an ounce and a half to a pint makes 
fairly good coffee; two ounces to a pint make excel¬ 
lent coffee. Such coffee, mixed with half, or even 
three parts, its bulk of boiling milk, forms an ideal 
breakfast-food for body-workers and brain-work¬ 
ers. A very small quantity without milk, taken 
after a full meal, stimulates the stomach to the nec¬ 
essary effort of digestion, and wards off the drowsi¬ 
ness which often follows satiety. This neat infusion 
is generally known as ‘black’ coffee. But genuine 
coffee, when infused, is not very black. An excessive 
black color is given by means of burnt sugar, and is 
no sure indication of strength. It is a mistake to 
suppose that costly and cumbersome machines are 
necessary for making coffee. The Brazilians insist 
that coffee-pots should be made of porcelain or 
earthenware, not metal. Excellent coffee may be 
made in a common jug provided with a strainer. 
Warm the jug, put in the coffee, pour boiling water 
on it, and the thing is done. Coffee must not be 
boiled; let it gently simmer; violent ebullition dis¬ 
sipates the aroma. If a quantity be wanted, good 
coffee can be made some hours beforehand, even 
overnight if necessary. For this purpose use any 
large earthenware vessel; heat it to receive the coffee; 
fill up with boiling water; protect the contents from 
the air by a wet cloth over the lid or other covering. 
When required, pour gently off the clear infusion 
and heat it to the simmering point. Complicated 
filters are unnecessary if your coffee be pure; if 
mixed with chicory, dandelion root, roasted acorns, 
roasted cabbage-stumps, or other forms of vegetable 
offal, which on boiling disintegrate and yield a thick, 
starchy, albuminous, sugary soup, you will then 
want an ingenious filter. There are four distinct 
kinds of coffee. The first and best is the Mocha, 
the berries of which are nearly round and of a pale 
yellow color. Next in quality comes the Matinique, 
with berries elongated and of a soft green hue. The 
Rio ranks next, the berries being small and nearly 
gray. Lastly come the Java, whose berries are large, 
flat and pale gray. The Mocha is particularly de¬ 
licious as a flavoring in creams and ices. It must be 
roasted lightly and infused when quite hot; then the 
essence of pure coffee is obtained. Equal portions 
of Bourbon and Martinique make a good blend in 
coffee. Java is inferior. Never blend coffee until 
after roasting, because, their berries not being of 
uniform size and dryness, the cooking of them will 
be irregular. Do not roast over-much; when the 
berry is very dark — not black — and has become 


COL 

moist, take it off the fire and cool it quickly. The 
conditions of a good supply of coffee are a well- 
developed roasted berry, roasted within forty-eight 
hours of its consumption, ground immediately be¬ 
fore using, and brewed for public supply in clean, 
fresh pots every twenty or thirty minutes.” — 
French Coffee— See cafe and drinks. Turkish 
Coffee —‘‘To make Turkish coffee you need a mill, 
which grinds the coffee to a very fine powder; when 
the water is boiling, add a sufficiency of lump sagar 
according to taste, and then, when the sugar is quite 
dissolved, the coffee, in the proportion of a large 
tablespoonful to each small cup. Stir round vigor¬ 
ously, and let the boiling water rise once. The 
coffee is then ready and should be served in a copper 
or brass pot. Special verseuses (out-pourers) for the 
purpose can be obtained and are very oanamental. 
Turkish coffee is, of course, for postprandial use.” 
Russian Coffee —“ Russian coffee is still more 
easy to make. Fill your cup half full of coffee 
ground as above, and pour the boiling water on it, 
and sweeten to laste. When the coffee has been 
properly ground, the grounds, far from being un¬ 
pleasant, form a delicious cream at the bottom of 
the cup, the dregs of which in this case are the best 
part of the draught. Coffee Cream— Bavarian 
cream coffee-flavored, set with gelatine; made of 
i pint custard, i oz. gelatine, % cup strong clear 
coffee, i pint cream whipped; set in a mould on ice. 
Coffee Custards —Yolks-of-egg custard flavored 
with clear coffee; in cups; steamed, meringued when 
cold. Coffee Ice-Cream —Best made with pure 
cream with sugar and strong clear coffee; custard 
can be used, or part cream. Iced Coffee —A popu¬ 
lar beverage consisting of coffee with cream and 
sugar the ordinary way, with shaved ice added; 
shaken up; imbibed through a straw. Coffee 
Cakes —Meaning cakes to eat with coffee, are kinds 
of sweetened bread; some are flat-bread cakes with 
sugar and cinnamon on the surface; others are buns 
or rusks. (See Cafe.) 

COINGS (Fr.)—Quincies. 

COLBERT SAUCE—Brown; made of i pint 
espagnole, 2 tablespoons extract of beef, pepper, 
parsley, lemon juice, 6 oz. butter beaten in by por¬ 
tions, not boiled. 

COLBERT SOUP —Endive soup with eggs, 
made of shredded hearts of endive, blanched, stewed 
in butter, stock added, yolks and cream to thicken, 
a poached egg served in each plate. 

COLD STORAGE—Since artificial ice-making 
has become general, some hotels employ the freez¬ 
ing process itself instead of ice for their cold rooms. 
The process consists of the rapid evaporation of 
ammonia by heat; the vapor passing through pipes 
produces intense cold; the pipes being laid in brine 
the latter becomes colder than ice, and being cir¬ 
culated through other pipes along the walls of store 
rooms, meat rooms, etc., the cold brine keeps them 
I at a freezing temperature, so that meat remains 





288 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK, 


COL 

frozen in them for weeks, and ca/afes of water are 
frozen more or less as wanted. This system is 
called cold storage. It is employed on board the 
ocean steamships, and by its means fresh meat is 
kept frozen during the voyage from Australia or 
New Zealand. The ammonia employed in the proc¬ 
ess is condenced and used again with but little loss. 
In most towns now there are cold-storage accom¬ 
modations for hire to those who need, yet have not 
business or room enough to put in their own plant. 

COLLATION—Lunch. 

COLLEGE PUDDING—A plum-pudding mix¬ 
ture made up into balls size of an egg, floured, fried 
and served with wine sauce. College Pudding 
Baked— Made of 6 oz. bread-crumbs, 3 oz. sugar, 4 
eggs, Yz cup milk, 6 oz. each suet, currants, citron, 
little brandy and nutmeg. 

COLORINGS— Red —Cochineal, 1 oz., pounded 
fine in a mortar, pt. water, % oz. salts of worm¬ 
wood; boiled 1 minute; Y oz * cream tartar, little 
powdered alum, strained, little sugar added to keep 
it. Cherry Red —Dutch grappe madder, 2 oz., 
tied in a cloth and beaten in a mortar, Avith water, 
4 pts.; boiled; alum and oil of tartar added, let settle, 
wash the sediment, dry it, dissolve in alcohol. 
Beet Red— Juice of blood beets*for ices and jellies, 
extracted by pouring boiling water acidulated, over 
slices. Blue —(/)-Indigo in warm water for some 
uses; for candy, indigo pounded fine is dissolved in 
gin or alcohol. (2)-Prussian or Antwerp blue 
ground fine and mixed with water. Yellow - Tur¬ 
meric or saffron dissolved in water or alcohol; tinc¬ 
ture of saffron is used for coloring ices and syrups. 
Barberry root with alum and cream tartar makes a 
yellow for candies. Green— (/) Fustic,'1 oz.; tur¬ 
meric, Y oz.; alum and cream tartar each 2 drachms, 
Avater, pt.; boiled; tartar added first, alum later. 
This makes bright yellow; indigo dissolved in alco¬ 
hol added to make green. (g)-Green is made by 
boiling spinach 1 minute, then squeezing out the 
juice by tAvisting in strong toAvel; parsley answers 
the same purpose; both may be used to make a 
lighter green by pounding them raAV in a marble 
mortar and not boiling. Brown —Burnt sugar or 
caramel; the sugar is burnt till it smokes and looks 
like tar, Avater added and boiled. Many shades in 
soups and jellies, from yellow to orange, light and 
dark broAvn, and port Avine color and purple, are 
obtained Avith caramel and its admixture with coch¬ 
ineal. See aniline , also annato. 

COLORINGS, DELETERIOUS—A Philadel¬ 
phia society for the prevention of adulteration, has 
sent out a list of 35 poisonous colorings, Avith their 
common and also their chemical names, warning 
bakers and confectioners not to use them. They 
are mostly the colors found in the paint shops, and 
are mineral compounds. The principal need of a 
coloring seems to be for a yellow, to imitate the 
richness of yolk of eggs in buns and cakes, which 
contain no eggs. “ Notwithstanding all that has 
been published relative to the poisonous character 


COM 

of chrome yelloiv as a coloring matter for confec¬ 
tionery, buns, cakes, and pastry, President Amer- 
ling states that a large number of bakers are still 
using the stuff. Yesterday he visited five bakeries, 
each of Avhicli does a large business, and in every 
case chrome yelloAV Avas found in use. The pro¬ 
prietor of one of these, a prominent up-toivn baker, 
Avas exceedingly indignant at the appearance of 
President Amerling, and stoutly denied using the 
poison. ‘Well, Avliat do you use? ’ asked the presi¬ 
dent. ‘ Why, canary yelloAV, and that’s not poison. 
I’m not afraid to eat it myself.’ The matter, Avhen 
shoAvn, proved to be nothing else than chrome yel- 
Ioav. The baker Avas cautioned not to use it again 
under pain of prosecution. He had been reported 
to the society by a gentleman Avho stated in a letter 
that his own family and a number of neighbors had 
been made sick by eating buns purchased at his 
bakery.” 

COLLOPS— (/)-Minced beef; same as beef saus¬ 
age meat; same as Hamburg steak, except variations 
in the seasonings. (2) - Beefsteaks of small size. 
(j)-A slice of meat of any kind is called a collop in 
some places; synonymous Avith steak. 

COLUMN CUTTERS—Tubular cutters of the 
apple-corer shape are so called; they are put up in 
sets or nests, running from the size of macaroni to an 
inch diameter. Used for cutting cork shapes of a eg- 
etables for chartreuses, pipe shapes for consommes, 
cores and lozenges for potatoes to fry, to serve Avith 
fish, etc., and for stamping out round slices of beets 
for decorating salads, egg custards for soups, and 
the like. 

COMMUTATION TICKETS—At restaurants; 
reduced rate tickets. 

COMPOTES—Fruits stewed in syrup so as to 
keep the original shape, not broken. Compote of 
Pears —Pears pared, but not divided, simmered in 
porcelain kettle Avith Avater to cover; dipped out, 
syrup made of 1 lb. sugar to about 8 pears, little 
cinnamon, glass of sherry added to the pear liquor, 
boiled down, pears in it; served cold. Compote 
de Abricots —Apricots stewed in syrup. Com¬ 
pote de Prunes Reine-claude — Greengage 
plums boiled in syrup. Compote de Peches a la 
Conde —Peaches boiled in syrup and *er\ r ed on a 
bed of rice, SAveetened, red currant jelly diluted 
poured over. The best qualities of California canned 
fruits in syrup are fine compotes ready made. Com¬ 
pote de Fruits a la Normande —Pear butter; 
made by stewing pears in cider or perry. Compote 
d’Oranges —Quarters of oranges boiled in syrup; 
serA-ed hot Avith a herder or cassolette of rice flour, 
or cold Avith cake. Compote de Marrons —Chest¬ 
nuts boiled in syrup Avith lemon juice; served on 
oval pieces of fried bread dipped in diluted jelly. 
Compote of Peaches a la Conde —Peaches in 
halves in syrup; rice made like pudding, part cooked 
as peach-shaped croquettes, remainder a bed to 
build the peaches upon; ornamented Avith candied 
fruits and syrup over the peaches and around the 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


289 


COM 

croquette border. Pommes a la Parisienne—A 
compote of apples in quarters, stewed with butter 
in the syrup; served on toasted rusks {brioche), red 
currant jelly in the syrup poured over all. Iced 
Compote of Strawberries—F resh berries made 
ice-cold on ice; syrup and sauterne wine mixed and 
frozen and spread over the berries. 

COMPOTIERE—Crockery-ware fruit stand; a 
tall bowl. 

COMUS—The god of revelry; sometimes named 
in connection with feasting. The luxuries of the 
table are called the gifts of Comus. 

COMF 1 rS—That class of candies like sugared 
almonds, having a center covered by successive 
coats of sugar. Comfits mentioned in recipes to 
strew over cakes are extremely small, like seeds of 
various colors. 

CONGER EEL—A very large species, as much 
larger than the common eel as a fowl is larger than 
a partridge. A prejudice against eating it exists in 
some localities, as is the case with our catfish, but 
not everywhere. Conger for Breakfast —The 
bone taken out without dividing the fish; salt and 
pepper rubbed in, the meat side laid open; the fish 
then fastened on a wall in the shade to cure for two 
days; pieces cut off, broiled and buttered. Conger 
Eel Stewed— In brown gravy, or dressed in steaks 
or cutlets, is by no means contemptible eating; it is 
also good roasted, or baked, made into a soup, or 
curried. Conger Soup —The head and shoulders of 
a large conger is covered with cold water, sweet 
herbs, onion, piece of lemon peel; boiled 1% hours; 
skimmed free from the oil of the fish; milk, flour and 
butter thickening, and green peas added, and the fish 
in pieces. “The conger eel good eating as soup? 
Well, I should just think so. You ask the first 
Guernsey man you come across—Guernsey man or 
Guernsey woman, Jersey man or Jersey woman (as 
Mrs. Langtry, for instance)—what is the pride and 
glory of his or her island. * Why, conger-eel soup,’ 
will be the answer And so it is. The first time I 
tasted it was at a ‘ toney ’ dinner at the Governor of 
Guernsey’s house. In fact, it is the national dish of 
Sarnia. The Elizabeth College boys are notoriously 
so fond of it that they go by the name of ‘College 
Congers,’ the cause of an eternal feud and much 
bloodshed between them and the ‘cads,’ or town boys. 
The soup is made principally with milk, but you 
have the proper recipe.” 

CONGRESS CAKE—Paris specialty. Made of 
12 oz. sugar, S oz. butter, 9 oz. flour and starch 
(about half and half), 6 yolks; butter, yolks and half 
the sugar creamed together; rest of sugar added, 
and flour and flavorings; baked in a border mould# 
center filled with jelly; served warm. 

CONSOMMES—Clear soups. Made by prepar¬ 
ing a soup as to strength and flavorings complete, 
but generally without any thickening ingredients; 
straining it, adding chopped lean raw meat and 
white of eggs, and boiling, then straining it clear 


CON 

and transparent through a jelly bag or cloth. Con¬ 
somme a l’Imperatrice —Clear soup with a 
poached egg in the plate; named for the Empress 
Josephine. Consomme aux CEufs Pociies— An¬ 
other name for the foregoing. “ The story runs tha 
the Empress Josephine returned after one of the im¬ 
perial hunts at Fountainebleau very tired and had 
just time to change her dress for dinner. ‘ The only 
thing I could eat at dinner,’ she exclaimed, ‘ would 
be a new-laid egg.’ One of the ladies hearing this 
hurried to General R., who was the superintendent 
of the palace, and transmitted her mistress’s wish to 
him. The general immediately communicated with 
the chef, who saw no better way of gratifying the 
Empress’s wish than by introducing poached eggs 
into the clear soup. All the menus were written 
‘Potage Consomme ’—the only addition to make was 
‘a Vlmperatrice .’ The guests wondered, but the 
Empress was pleased, and the new soup had its 
days.” Consomme a la Colbert —Clear soup with 
shreds of lettuce, celery, Jerusalem artichokes and 
small onions. Consomme a la Prince de Galles- 
Clear soup with small diamond shapes of quenelle 
forcemeat inclosing pieces of chicken meat, royale 
custards in same shapes, and asparagus points. 
Consomme aux Haricots Verts— Clear soup with 
shreds of string beans cooked green and kept separ¬ 
ate till served. Consomme aux Pates d’Italie - 
Clear soup with any of the various Italian pastes, 
but.preferably with the alphabet or similar fancy 
pastes. Consomme a la Jerusalem— Clear soup 
with balls like large peas scooped out of Jerusalem 
artichokes. Consomme a la Monte Carlo— 
French specialty. With fancy cutters vegetables 
and truffles are cut out to imitate clubs, diamonds, 
spades and hearts; chicken forcemeat dotted with 
truffles make dominoes; pipe macaroni stuffed with 
puree of green peas and forcemeat, cut across, forms 
rings. These are all served in the plates of clear 
soup. Consomme National —French specialty. 
Vegetables reduced to a savory mince inclosed in 
small egg shapes of chicken forcemeat; served in a 
plate of clear soup; the vegetables used are 2 carrots, 
2 leeks, 1 turnip, cut in dice and fried in butter, then 
stewed in consomme to glaze. Consomme a la 
Duchesse —A clear soup slightly thickened with 
starch, which becomes clear again by slow simmer¬ 
ing; then strips of white meat added. Consomme 
a la Nivernaise —Clear soup with fancy Italian 
pastes, quenelles and vegetables stamped in shapes. 
Consomme au Vermicelli -Clear soup with vermi¬ 
celli, the latter cooked and kept separate till served. 
Consomme au Tapioca —Clear soup with tapioca 
previously washed and steeped in cold water, 
drained and simmered in the consomme until trans¬ 
parent. Consomme a la Royale — Clear light- 
brown soup containing squares of egg custard; this 
is made by mixing a very little broth with some eggs 
as if for an omelet, 5 yolks and 1 whole egg prefer¬ 
able to all eggs, then cooking it in a buttered pan 
set in another pan of boiling water, if subjected to 








290 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CON 

too much heat and rapid boiling, the custard be¬ 
comes spongy and cannot be cut to shape. When 
done, the custard is turned out and cut diamond- 
wise and a few pieces served in each plate. The 
changes are to make some all yolk, some all white, 
and some white colored with beet juice, some green 
colored with spinach juice or parsley. Consomme 
DESCLIGNAC-Clear soup containing sherry and with 
rcyale custards stamped out in round lozenge shapes 
with shapes of carrot and turnip to match. Con¬ 
somme a l’Andalouse —Clear soup with vegetable 5 
cut in thin rounds with a column cutter; also a to' 
mato omelet mixture of i pint tomato sauce mixed 
with 12 yolks and 2 whole eggs steamed, and a piece 
of it in each soup plate. The tomato mixture to be 
either steamed in thimble moulds or cut in diamonds 
out of large pan. Consomme a la Macedoine de 
Legumes —Clear soup with all sorts of different- 
colored vegetables cut into very small dice. Con¬ 
somme a LA Bourdaloue —Clear chicken broth 
served with squares of white chicken meat and 
French peas in the plates; also in each one a thimble 
mould of rice, seasoned and bound with yolks and 
colored like lobster; steamed. Consomme de Gi- 
bier —Clear, dark and strong essence of game soup, 
with small cubes of breast of grouse and balls of 
rabbit forcemeat made green with parsley and 
poached separately. Consomme a la Montmor¬ 
ency —Clear chicken broth with chicken-forcemeat 
balls and squares of lasagnes paste in the plates, 
and also cigarettes of forcemeat rolled up in blanched 
lettuces; braised. Consomme Sagou Lie — Clear 
soup with washed sago simmered in it; about 2 oz. 
to a gallon. Consomme aux Pointes d’Aspergks 
et GEufs Poches —Clear soup with a poached egg 
and spoonful of green-cooked asparagus heads in 
each plate. Consomme a la Magenta —Clear soup 
colored slightly with red tomato juice, an assortment 
of vegetables cut as for macedoine; chopped celery- 
leaves, chervil and parsley. Consomme a la Me- 
.dicis —A white soup slightly thickened with flour 
and butter; a poached egg in each plate; also, a fried 
croustade filled with puree of chicken (like a patty) 
served separately. Consomme a la Rachel —A 
cream-colored soup thickened with flour and butter, 
yolks and cream; little custards of chicken forcemeat 
prepared as for royale , green peas and small cut 
string beans in the plates. Consomme a la Kursel- 
Clear soup with spring vegetables, peas, asparagus- 
heads and shred lettuce. Consomme Printaniere- 
Spring soup; clear with early summer vegetables, 
especially peas and asparagus-heads. Consomme 
Printaniere Royale —Printaniere with royale 
custards in it besides the vegetables. Consomme 
a la Chatelaine —Clear soup with royale custards, 
made of pint pur£e of white or ions in 10 yolks 
and 2 eggs and spoonful of cream and seasonings; 
also, peas and cut string beans. Consomme a la 
Palestine —Chicken broth with stewed Jerusalem 
artichokes in slices; also some rice cooked separ¬ 
ately in distinct grains and mixed in. Consomme 


CON 

a la Napolitaine —Clear, strong game broth, with 
stewed celery in small squares, game forcemeat 
quenelles, macaroni in inch lengths, and shapes of 
fried bread. Consomme aux Petits N a vets a 
Brun —Clear soup with brown-fried cubes of turnip. 
Consomme aux Quenelles —Clear soup with small 
balls of chicken meat finely pounded, mixed with 
cream, yolks, finely minced parsley, seasonings, 
poached separately. Consomme aux Profite- 
rolles —Clear soup with light balls of choux paste 
in the plates. ( See choux). These are boiled in broth 
with the steam shut in if to be served immediately, 
for they rise and then fall; but, if not, are baked in 
a very slack oven till dry, when they remain light. 
The paste for these has a proportion of grated cheese 
mixed in. Consomme a la Xavier— Pron. Hevier. 
Clear soup with shred lettuce or cabbage and other 
vegetables, and pea-shaped drops of paste made by 
dripping egg-batter through a colander into it while 
boiling. Consomme Julienne— Clear brandy-col¬ 
ored soup with vari-colored vegetables, which are 
cut into shreds, like straws, and half cooked in but¬ 
ter and sugar before being added to it. Brillat- 
Savarin says that he taught a New York restaurant- 
keeper named Julien how to change his ordinary 
p it-au-feu into this artistic soup, and that it had a 
great run as Julien’s soup. Consomme a la Bru- 
noise— Clear brown soup with vari-colored vegeta¬ 
bles cut in very small squares, and green peas. 
Consomme a la Paysanne —Peasant’s soup. Clear 
broth with various vegetables cut small, and shred 
lettuce. Consomme a la Jardiniere —Gardener’s 
soup, perhaps flowery soup. Clear soup with vari¬ 
colored vegetables stamped in small fancy shapes. 
There are jardiniere cutters to be bought which per¬ 
form this operation speedily enough. Consomme 
a la Chiffonade —Clear soup, like paysanne, with 
shred lettuce and peas. Consomme a la Sevigne— 
Clear chicken broth having royale custards consist¬ 
ing of pounded chicken meat and eggs, and green 
peas and small cut green string beans in the plates. 
Consomme a la Talma —Clear soup with royale 
custards made of almond puree, or milk mixed with 
eggs, and boiled rice in the plates. Consomme aux 
Trois Racines— Clear soup with cubes of carrots, 
turnips and celery. Consomme au Macaroni — 
Clear brown soup with macaroni boiled separately, 
cut in rings and added to the consomme when served 
— not to dull its clearness by being stirred about in it. 
Consomme aux Croutes —Clear soup with small 
thin triangles of bread, fried in butter, in the plates. 
Consomme a la Careme —Clear soup, brandy- 
color, containing small round lozenge-shapes of 
vegetables, lettuce, sorrel, chervil leaves, asparagus 
points, little sugar with the seasonings, and small 
shapes of bread toasted in the oven. Consomme au 
Riz—C lear soup with a little rice in large distinct 
grains, washed after cooking, then put in the soup. 
Consomme aux Petits Pois —Clear soup with very 
green peas—June peas or French., (Seepotages and 
soups.) 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


291 


COO 

COON—The racoon; American small wild animal; 
weight, 10 to 20 lbs.; is considered good game, but 
generally only plainly baked or stewed—country 
fashion. 

COQ DE BRUYERE (Fr.)—Black-game; a spe¬ 
cies of grouse. 

COQUILLES (Fr.)—Shells. Coquille de Ho- 
mard —Scalloped lobster served in the shell. Co¬ 
quilles de Moules —Mussels scalloped in scallop- 
shells. COQUILLES DE HOMARD A LA CREME — 
French specialty. The meat of a lobster cut in dice 
with the third of its volume of mushrooms; Becha¬ 
mel sauce with the mushroom liquor, fish essence, 
cayenne; the lobster and mushrooms mixed in the 
sauce, put in scallop shells, bread crumbs on top, 
and butter to moisten; baked. Coquilles of Sal¬ 
mon a l’Italienne —Small slices of salmon with 
sauce, baked in silver scallop-shells, bread crumbs 
■on top—scalloped salmon steaks. 

CORBEILLE (Fr.) — Basket. Corbeilles de 
Fruits— Baskets of fruit. Corbeilles d’Aman- 
x>es Pralinees— Baskets built of sugared almonds. 

CORDIAL—An alcoholic syrup of any flavor; a 
liqueur is flavored spirit without syrup. 

CORDON BLEU—A cook of the first order; 
.generally, however, applied to first-class female 
•cooks. The name has reference to the order of the 
blue ribbon instituted by one of the French kings. 

* ‘King Louis XV had among his numerous failings 
s. supreme contempt for female cooks and never 
would admit that they could cook a dinner worthy 
of being eaten by him, until one day, when he was 
dining with the celebrated Madame du Barry and 
was served successively with dishes of the most 
recherche description admirably cooked, he was so 
overcome at such elaborate and perfect fare that he 
asked to see the cook, but on hearing that ail this 
was the handicraft of a women he felt quite dis¬ 
gusted; however, soon recovering his serenity he 
•consented, and, at the request of his mistress, he 
onobled the cook by conferring upon her the ‘Cor¬ 
don Bleu,’ (the order of knighthood of the Saint 
Esprit, instituted by Henry III), which from that 
time has been the recognized definition of a skillful 
female cook. In France, when you are dining with 
friends and admire the fare, it is quite the correct 
thing to say to the mistress of the house: ‘ Madame, 
you have a veritable cordon bleu! ” 

CORKAGE—A charge made for opening bottles 
•of wine, service, use of glasses, etc., additional to 
the price of the wine. 

CORN—In the United States it is Indian corn or 
maize; in England corn means all grains that are 
used for making bread; wheat, oats, barley and rye 
are all corn over there, and Indian corn is maize. 
■Green Corn— Gathered when in the milk state it 
is more succulent than even the tenderest green 
peas; it is never so thoroughly a luxury as when 
•eaten off the cob, as is the custom; the cars should 


COR 

be prepared by having one row of grains cut away, 
it is then boiled about 20 minutes in salted water; 
served in the folds of a napkin, eaten with butter. 
Cut-off Corn —The tender ears cooked and the 
grains cut off and seasoned with salt and butter, 
served in dishes same as peas. Green Corn Pud¬ 
ding —Cut-off corn mixed with butter, milk, salt, 
pepper, and yolks enough to make it a soft custard 
when baked; eaten as a vegetable. Grated Corn 
Pudding —The green ears gfated raw and the palp 
made up with cream, eggs and butter into a custard¬ 
like preparation; either baked or cooked in a farina 
kettle. Green Corn Fritters — Cut-off corn 
mixed with flour, egg and butter, dropped by spoon¬ 
fuls into hot lard, fried brown. Corn Mock 
Oysters— Raw corn shaved off the cob, or grated, 
mixed with salt, pepper, eggs, little flour; fried on 
both sides like eggs, singly; breakfast dish. Corn 
Meal —Ground corn, not corn flour; it makes lighter 
and more palatable bread when ground coarse. 
Corn Bread —A plain kind is o-enerally used as a 
dinner bread; made of only meal, water and salt, 
made up soft, baked in spoonful lumps on a baking 
pan. Corn Hoe Cake —Corn bannocks, like 
Scotch barley bannocks, baked thin on a girdle. 
Corn Light Bbead —Two-thirds meal, % wheat 
flour, little sugar and shortening, powder and milk, 
or buttermilk and soda; baked in a pan. Corn 
Egg Bread — Rich like unsweetened cake, with 
scalded meal, salt, lard, eggs, milk, little sugar, 
powder; baked in pan or mould. Corn Batter 
Cakes —Same mixture as foregoing made thinner, 
poured by spoonfuls on a hot griddle; varied by 
mixing a proportion of wheat flour with the corn 
meal. Corn-and-Rye Bread — Mixture of the 
two kinds of meal with salt, molasses, and powder 
or yeast. Corn Meal Mush —Porridge of meal 
boiled in water. Corn Meal Gruel —Mush made 
thin. Fried Mush —Porridge allowed to get cold, 
cut in blocks, dipped in egg and cracker dust, fried 
in hot lard; breakfast dish. Is also rolled in flour 
and saute in a little butter. Corn Hominy— White; 
corn denuded of the bran and broken to the size of 
peas. Used as a dinner vegetable after long cook¬ 
ing. Fine Hominy' —A grade of the size of grains 
of wheat, boiled; used either for breakfast, dinner 
or supper. Hominy Grits— A grade fine as gran¬ 
ulated sugar, most frequently used for breakfast 
and supper in the form of porridge; eaten with milk 
or cream. Hulled Corn —Home-made hominy, 
grains soaked in lye until the bran is nearly dis¬ 
solved, then washed and boiled; used boiled for 
lunch and supper, and fried with butter for break¬ 
fast. Corn Meal Puddings— (/)-Baked; made of 
8 oz. meal boiled in 1 qt. water or milk, molasses, 
butter, eggs, ginger. (2)-Boiled; made of 8 oz. 
meal, 1 quart water, suet, sugar, lemon, eggs, 
Corn Soup— A ©ream of corn; the grains finely 
shaved and scraped off the cob, added to veal or 
chicken stock with a piece of lean pickled pork and 
few vegetables, milk or cream, butter and flour at 






292 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


COR 

the finish. Corn and Tomato Soup— Vegetable 
soup with chopped tomatoes and grains of corn. 
Canned Corn— Some brands are put up in such 
perfection that the canned is as good as the green 
and can be used in its place; when stewed it has a 
little milk added to it, and perhaps a trifle of starch 
or flour thickening. Pop Corn — A diminutive 
sort of maize, the grains of which burst open when 
roasted. Pop Corn Ralls — A popular cheap 
sweetmeat made by mixing syrup with popped 
corn while hot, and making it up in balls wrapped 
in transparent paper. An immense business is done 
in this product in the large cities. Candied Pop 
Corn —Of various colors; made by stirring the 
popped corn in a copper kettle over the fire, and 
pouring syrup, allowing it to dry upon the grains. 

CORNE D’ABONDANCE (Fr.)-Horn of plenty; 
the cornucopia. 

CORNICHONS (Fr.)— Pickled cucumbers or 
gherkins. 

CORN STARCH—Obtained by steeping crushed 
maize in water and pressing it through straining 
material into troughs of water. Starch will not dis¬ 
solve in cold water, but settles at the bottom. Corn 
Starch Custards —Starch used the same as arrow- 
root; 2 oz. starch in a quart of milk thickens it to the 
consistency of cream; eggs are added according to 
the requirements. Corn Starch Puddings—(/)- 
Baked; made of 4 oz. starch, 1 qt. milk, scalded to¬ 
gether; sugar, butter, eggs, flavoring. (2)-Boiled; 
4 oz. starch, 1 qt. milk, sugar, butter, 2 yolks, fla¬ 
voring. Starch is not to be cooked much, but taken 
from the fire soon as thick; it turns thin with much 
boiling or baking. Corn Starch Blanc Mange— 
Boiled pudding with less starch set in moulds; 
turned out cold; served with cresm or fruit jelly. 
Corn Starch Jelly- Acidulated lemon syrup thick¬ 
ened with starch, simmered clear, set in moulds; 
can be made with raspberry or any red juice. Corn 
Starc:: Cream Fritters —The boiled pudding 
with yolks added, flavored, made cold, cut in shapes, 
breaded and fried; served with maraschino sauce. 
Corn Starch Meringue —The baked pudding 
with fruit jelly on surface; meringued; baked. Corn 
Starch CAKES-lIave a proportion of starch instead 
of some of the flour. Corn Starch Ice Cream— 
White, useful for combinations of colors and to 
make without eggs; made by thickening boiling 
milk with starch, butter to whiten it, sugar, lemon; 
frozen as usual. Corn Starch Thickening- 
Soups, gravies, sweet-pudding sauces, etc., thick¬ 
ened with starch and allowed to simmer from 15 to 
30 minutes, become clear and transparent as before, 
smooth and bright, as they would not be with flour. 

CORNED BEEF—Beef that is pickled in a salt¬ 
peter brine which makes it of a pink color distinct 
from plain salted beef. 

CORNED FISH—Salted fish; not smoked. 

CORNUCOPIA—The horn of plenty; classical 


COT 

emblem of abundance; much used by cooks and con¬ 
fectioners in decorative work. 

COSEY—English; a thick cap of woolen material 
to drop over the tea pot to keep it hot while the tea 
is drawing; is sometimes highly ornamented with 
needle-work. 

COSTER OR CUSTARD APPLE —Fruit of 
the West Indies. 

COTTON-SEED OIL—This must be counted 
now among the important food products of the 
United States; it is produced in immense and con¬ 
stantly increasing quantities. The government 
commissioners report: “Refined cotton-seed oil 
is usually very free from acid, and when properly 
prepared is of pleasant taste and admirably adapted 
for edible and culinary purposes, for which it is 
now extensively employed, both with and without 
its nature being acknowledged. It is now sub¬ 
stituted for olive oil in some of the liniments of the 
United States Pharmacopceia, but its principal ap¬ 
plications are in soap-making and the manufacture 
of factitious butter.” As far as the buyers of pro¬ 
visions are concerned, the objection to cotton-seed 
oil is that it is sold in disguise; as oil by its proper 
name it can be bought at prices from 50 cents to 90 
cents or $1.00 per gallon, dependent upon the degree 
of refining it has undergone and the size of pack¬ 
ages; but if bought with “pure olive oil” label 
upon the package it may cost $3.00 per gallon or 
more. A test for cotton-seed oil to distinguish it 
has formerly been to subject it to cold, when it 
would set in the bottle too thick to run; that test is 
no longer good, however, for the stearine is now 
pressed out at a low temperature, and the oil re¬ 
mains limpid. It has been easy to detect it by the 
smell in frying, but that only holds good with 
common, half-refined oil; the best has no unpleasant 
smen, and is now generally used in restaurants and 
hotels for frying, instead of lard. One of the great¬ 
est manufacturers of lard testified not long ago that 
about one-third of the lard made was cotton-seed 
oil; which fact accounts for the establishment of 
three grades of lard in regular business, the lowest 
being always semi-fluid at medium temperature and 
useless for making the best pastry, while the next 
grade above bears evidence of having been chemic¬ 
ally treated in its soapy, pasty tenacity. If it must 
be purchased for economical r .asons, instead of 
buying it in the guise of lard or olive oil, it is wise 
to buy cotton-seed oil for what it is at the lowest 
price, taking care to obtain a thoroughly refined 
article. That it needs and is highly susceptible of 
refinement this interesting extract from the govern¬ 
ment chemist’s report will show: “ The oil as ex¬ 
pressed from the seeds contains in solution, often to 
the extent of 1 per cent., a peculiar coloring matter, 
which is characteristic of this oil and its seed, and 
which gives the oil a ruby-red color, sometimes so 
intense as to cause the oil to appear nearly black. 
The coloring matter causes crude cotton-seed oil to 











THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


293 


COT 

produce stains, and hence is removed by a process 
of refining. This is usually effected by agitating 
the crude oil at the ordinary temperature with 10 to 
15 per cent, of solution of caustic soda of 1.060 
specific gravity, when the alkali combines with the 
coloring matter and saponifies a portion of the oil. 
The mixture becomes filled with black flodks which 
deposit on standing and leave the oil but slightly 
colored. Refined cotton-seed oil is of a straw or 
golden-yellow color, or, occasionally, nearly color¬ 
less.” . - ' 

COTELETTES (Fr.)—Cutlets. These meaning 
originally mutton or lamb chops having the rib bone 
in them, the end of the bone trimmed serving as a 
handle, all the unusual things denominated cutlets 
or cotelettes are imitations of the cutlet shape with 
iittle regard to their composition. Cotelettes de 
Huitres — (r)-Large, flattened, fried oysters in 
bread crumbs, with a stick of macaroni inserted to 
represent the chop bone, and perhaps a paper frill 
upon it. (^)-Oysters cut small, mixed with bread 
crumbs, sauce, yolks, etc., made out into cutlet 
shapes; breaded and fried. {See chicken cutlets , etc.) 

COTE DE BCEUF (Fr.)—Ribs of beef. 

COULIBIAC—A national Russian dish of eggs 
and cabbage baked like a pie; made of 2 cabbages, 2 
large onions chopped and fried, salt, pepper, 4 oz. 
butter; all stewed till tender; when cold, 6 chopped 
hard eggs mixed in; made like a thin fruit pie, with 
bottom and top crust of puff paste; cabbage filling; 
egged over; baked. 

COUItONNE (Fr.)—Crown. Fillets or small 
pieces of meat are dished en couronne when piled in 
ring form. Couronne de Brioche-A ring-shaped 
plait or twist, or loaf of brioche. 

COUGLOF (Fr.); ICAUGLAUFF (Ger.) —A 
class of yeast-raised cakes, of which “election 
cake ” is the American example. 

COURT-BOUILLON-A highly seasoned liquor 
to cook fish in; consisting of: (/)-Water, white wine, 
salt, pepper, onion, cloves, bay leaf, thyme, parsley 
and a carrot. (2)-In creole cookery it is a brown 
sauce containing tomatoes, oil and garlic. 

COUVERT (Fr.)—Cover; the table setting; the 
plate with folded napkin, knife, fork, etc. DIner 
de 40 C ouverts— Dinner of 40 plates, or persons. 

COVENTRIES—Coventry puffs or tarts, made 
like “Banburys.” Turnovers of triangular shape 
with raspberry jam inside; sugar glace baked on top. 

COW-IIEELS —Often mentioned in foreign re¬ 
cipes; they are calves’ feet of a larger growth, and 
can be used the same ways; are used to make gela¬ 
tinous soups; soused in vinegar; stewed with odds 
and ends of raw meat to make brawn or head 
cheese. 

CRAB—There are several varieties of edible or 
marketable crabs, besides a good many that are 
merely natural curiosities. The smallest is the 
Oyster Crab, found living in the same shell with 


CRA 

the oyster, and of late this has come into the list of 
delicacies; oyster crabs in various styles are served 
at the restaurants mostly, however, in the form of 
a bisque soup. There is another variety so like it in 
size and appearance as to lead to the inference that 
when oyster crabs are scarce, as they must generally 
be, the other, one may be made to do duty for it. 
This is the Fiddler Crab —one of the most singular 
of living creatures; it is only a size larger than the 
oyster crab, but instead of passing its life in water 
and in darkness it loves the sunshine; it lives in 
moist burrows in the sand near salt water, and 
comes out in countless thousands, making strange 
motions at the mouth of its burrow when there are 
no intruders in its precincts; it has one large claw, 
nearly as big as its body, which it either folds across 
its front like a shield, or extends and makes the 
fiddling motion with, the other claw being diminu¬ 
tive, no larger than one of its legs. These are 
caught and used for bait. The Deep-Sea Crab 
grows as large and has as heavy claws as the largest 
lobsters; some are nearly covered with thorny pro¬ 
jections. These large specimens are the kind to 
serve as dressed crabs in their own shells. The 
t ommon Small Green Crab seems to exist in all parts 
of the world; it is found in the markets by the wagon 
load, and is the staple kind for all the ordinary well- 
known dishes of crab. Stuffed Crabs — Crabs 
boiled five minutes in salted water, the flap and in¬ 
side part called “the dead meat” and “the lady,”' 
but which is the gills and generally sandy is thrown 
away; crabs pulled open, back shells saved whole, 
all the meat collected and chopped fine; thick sauce 
made by simmering chopped onion in butter, adding 
flour, then milk, salt, white and red pepper, yolks, 
minced parsley, lemon juice, and the crab-meat; 
shells filled with the mixture; bread crumbs on top; 
baked. Buttered Crab —A large crab boiled, the 
meat picked out, mixed with salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
cream or melted butter, and bread crumbs; shell 
filled; crumbs on top; baked; served hot with toast. 
Crabs a L’AMERiCAiNE-The meat picked out from 
4 dozen crabs, drained, 2 raw yolks added, salt, 
cayenne, little chopped parsley, 2 tablespoons bread 
crumbs; made into balls or croquettes; breaded and 
fried. Hot Crab —The meat of a large crab, rich 
gravy, or cream, and curry paste, seasoning and fine 
bread crumbs; the shell filled; crumbs on top; baked. 
Crab Sausages —“Would you like to eat crab saus¬ 
ages? Boil some of these animals; reduce them to a 
pulp; mix with this some spikenard, garum, pepper 
and eggs; give to this the ordinary shape of saus¬ 
ages, place them on a stove or gridiron, and you 
wil 1 , by these means, obtain a delicate and tempting 
dish. Apicius assures us of this fact; and he was a 
connoisseur /” Crab Pie a la Guernsey —The 
meat of a large boiled crab chopped, seasoned with 
salt, white pepper, little nutmeg, pinch of cayenne, 
lump of butte’’ handful of bread crumbs; moistened 
with 2 or 3 spoons vinegar, hot, mixed with little 
made mustard and salad oil; shell filled; bread 






294 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CRA 

crumbs on top; baked; served very hot. Browned 
Crab— A large crab, the shell buttered inside, the 
meat minced and mixed with partly fried onion, 
parsl y, mushrooms, truffles and butter; flour, salt, 
cayenne, few spoonfuls of broth or gravy; filled into 
the shell; bread crumbs on top; baked. Crab Soup- 
Crabs boiled, cleaned, broken, fried with onion and 
bacon; meat from other crabs held in reserve; water 
.and tomatoes added to the fried crabs; stewed, 
thickened with flour and butter; cream added, salt, 
pepper, picked crab meat. Coquille de Crabe— 
Scalloped crab or devilled crab in the shell. Soft- 
Shell Crabs —In season only 4 months, May, June, 
July, August; the crab casts its shell yearly, and this 
js the new shell unhardened. Soft Crabs Fried— 
The small legs removed, also the flap and gills in¬ 
side it; washed, wiped dry, dipped in cream, fried 
quickly in a kettle of hot lard or oil; dredged with 
fine salt; served on a napkin with parsley and lemon. 
Soft Crabs Broiled —Breaded, flat in a double 
broiler, done over hot coals, and basted with butter. 
Soft Crab a l’Indienne — Cut in pieces, partly 
fried in butter with onions, curry powder, broth, 
•etc.; served with rice. Crabs a la Creole —“The 
Creole style of cooking hard-shell crabs is highly 
approved by epicures, but it doesn’t recommend it¬ 
self to Mr. Bergh’s society for the prevention of 
•cruelty. A big iron-pot is put over a very hot fire. 
The bottom of the pot is then covered with, say, 3 
pints of the best white-wine vinegar, into which a 
few pinches of salt are thrown; upon this is sprink¬ 
led red pepper; then 2 or 3 narrow sticks are placed 
.above the liquid, the ends resting at the sides of the 
pot; the cover is put conveniently by for hurried ac¬ 
tion; then the alive-crabs are packed in to the full, 
and the cover is put on. The steam of the condi 
ments soon enwraps them, and when the carapax is 
cardinal red, ‘a dish fit for the gods ’ is ready for 
the refrigerator and then for the table. It is said by 
those who have eaten crabs cooked in this peculiar 
way that the natural moisture and flavor of the meat 
are preserved, and that the boiled condiments give 
singular piquancy to it.” Dressed Crab —Is crab 
salad; the meat mixed with oil, salt, pepper, vinegar 
and mustard; served in the large crab’s shell on a 
bed of cress or lettuce. Crab with Tomatoes— 
“Baked tomatoes, partly stuffed with crab-meat, is 
a new delicacy, and a sandwich made of one slice of 
a large, ripe, juicy tomato with a layer of crab-meat, 
cooked creole style, isn’t so bad.” Devilled Crab- 
The same as the various forms of hot crab, buttered 
crab, etc., which are but differences in seasonings; 
devilled crab is made hotter, with some pungrnt 
table sauce. Crab SALAD-Crab meat with chopped 
celery and salad seasonings. Crab Gumbo —Crabs 
cut in pieces partially fried with butter, shallots and 
ham; broth added, little white wine, aromatics, 
green pepper, a tablespoon gumbo powder to each 
pint of soup; dredged in carefully; served with 
•boiled rice. Bisque of Crabs —Crabs in pieces; 
with vegetables fried in butter; broth and wine 


CRA 

added; then pounded shells and all with boiled rice, 
and passed through a seive; soup thickened with 
this purde; sherry to finish; served with fried bread. 
Canned Crabs —Crab meat ready-prepared can be 
bought in cans; it can be used for all the hot dishes 
where picked crab-meat is called for, and for soups 
and salads. “In England crabs are in season all the 
year round, but are best in the warm months. All 
crabs over 4% inches across the broadest part of the 
shell, crabs in roe, and soft-shell crabs, are illegal.” 

CRAB APPLE—Wild apples, valued for mak¬ 
ing crab apple jelly and crab cider. 

CRACKER MEAL — Crackers crushed and 
sifted; used to bread cutlets, oysters and the like for 
frying. It is important that the crackers used for 
the purpose should be of the kinds that contain no 
butter, as the dust of butter crackers soon turns 
rancid and spoils the fries. Pieces of bread thor¬ 
oughly dried and crushed form the substitute for 
crackers, though the product is not so satisfactory. 

CRACKNELS—Name of a kind of crackers or 
biscuits. 

CRACKLINGS—The remains of pork fat after 
the lard is tried out Crackling Bread —Corn 
bread made of cracklings mixed in corn meal with 
water and salt, baked in deep skillet. 

CRANE—Cranes were in the olden time con¬ 
sidered an aristocratic dish. At a banquet during 
the reign of Edward IV two hundred and four 
were served. Cranes are eaten freely in the United 
States. A sand-hill crane appeared for many suc¬ 
ceeding years as one of the dishes at the famous 
game dinners by Mr. John B. Drake in Chicago. 

CRANBERRY—First used in Siberia and ex¬ 
ported from Russia. Grows wild in the northern 
states and is improved by cultivation. The cran¬ 
berry-growing interest is a large and important one, 
cranberry sauce having become a national institu¬ 
tion. The cultivated berries may be known by 
their larger size and clean condition, for cultivators 
find it most expedient to have them picked by hand. 
Cranberry Sauce — Stewed cranberries with 
sugar, stirred up, not strained; served with roast 
turkey, chicken, goose, pork and venison. Cran¬ 
berry' Jelly' —Very easily made as cranberries 
have more vegetable gelatine than any other fruit. 
The syrup from cranberries stewed with sugar 
poured off clear, sets in jelly when cold; used in 
place of currant jelly with meats and in pastry. 
Cranberry Pie— Open tart, the fruit well sweet¬ 
ened. Cranberry Roll — One of the best of 
“roly-poly” puddings. (See apple roll.} 

CRAPAUDINE (a la )—Trussed or spread out 
like a frog. Pigeons or chickens a la crapaudine 
are split open, flattened and broiled. 

CRAWFISH —“I wonder when the modern 
caterer and book-writer, as well as the fishmonger, 
who ought to know better, will cease to stumble 
between the Scylla and Charybdis of cray and craw 






295 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CRA 

fish. The former is a small crustacean found in the 
mouths of rivers, and the other, as a rule, larger 
than a lobster and a sea and harbor fish. The meat 
of both is rich in inosite , animal sugar, which easily 
distinguishes it from that of the lobster. Again, 
the crawfish is sweeter than the crayfish. The 
identical crawfish for this dinner were sold as cray¬ 
fish ; and I remember in 1SS0 having to review a 
cook book, from the pen of an illustrious writer, 
where the two were confounded, and the man posed 
as a naturalist, too.” Langouste a la Broche— 
Roast crawfish; the fish marinaded in vinegar and 
oil, or brushed over with vinegar several times, then 
with butter and roasted in a very hot oven with fre¬ 
quent basting. When the shell becomes soft it is 
done; white sauce with wine, lemon juice, mace, 
etc. Crawfish Cutlets —The head removed and 
all the hard parts of the tail except the terminal 
piece. Slit so as to be laid open, beaten flat, sea¬ 
soned, breaded, fried; served with tomato sauce or 
fried parsley. 

CRAYFISH—There are two or more kinds; the 
river or fresh-water crayfish, which may be found 
in any shallow creek or brook where cresses grow; 
it is used for fish bait, but never thought of as an 
article of diet in this country. The other is the salt¬ 
water crayfish, black with red claws while alive; it 
is to all intents a small lobster, the same in shape 
and formation, and turns red when cooked. This 
crayfish or crawfish is but three or four inches long. 
It is well understood and appreciated by the French 
inhabitants of Louisiana and an article of regular 
supply in their markets. And it is an interesting 
crustacean on account of its prominence in the 
whole system of French cookery. Truffles and cray¬ 
fish tails—crayfish tails and truffles—the twain are 
almost as certain as pepper and salt to be met with 
in every dish with a name in any foreign menu. 
Buisson de Eckevisses — - Pyramid of crayfish; 
plain boiled in salted water with onions, parsley, 
pepper, white wine or cider, cooked for io minutes; 
served cold, built up on a napkin folded around an 
inverted champagne glass to form a cone; decorated 
with parsley. Eckevisses a la Bordelaise — 
The crayfish well washed and alive; a stewpan is 
set over the fire and these preparatory ingredients 
.are fried in it: 3 sliced onions, as many mushrooms, 
4 oz. lean ham cut in dice, 2 cloves, garlic, parsley, 
thyme, bay leaf, salt, white and cayenne pepper. 
When all these are fried light brown half a bottle of 
chablis or claret is added and a wine glass of vin¬ 
egar; when boiling, the crayfish are thrown in, cov¬ 
ered with a lid and boiled 12 minutes, frequently 
stirred up. Liquor is then strained off from them, 
thickened with flour and butter; tomato sauce added 
to it, poured over the crayfish in a deep dish, fried 
shapes of bread around. Crayfish for Garnish¬ 
ing— “ Ecrevisses of the smaller kind are also ex¬ 
tensively used in the French cuisine for garnishing. 
The * poulet a la Marengo,’ the ‘ tete de veau en 
tortue,’ the ‘saumon a la Chambord,’ the ‘matelotte 1 


CRE 

d’angmlles, the ‘ pate chaud a la financifere,’ would 
be ignoble and inartistic plates without the embell¬ 
ishment of crayfish. In France and in Germany, 
where they are abundant, crayfish is considered a 
very dainty article of food, and in a dejeuner of any 
importance, or an elaborate supper, a Buisson 
d’ecrevisses always occupies a prominent place on 
the table. In Paris the craze for them is such that 
they are hawked, ready cooked, about the streets, 
the price varying from a penny to six-pence each. 
The best crayfish are caught in the rivers Meuse 
and Rhine. Crayfish butter and crayfish tails are 
also well spoken of; but the most historic use to 
which the little river lobsters have been put, is that 
of making the famous potage known as ‘bisque.’ 
Bisque is as old a soup as ‘potage k la reine.’ ” 
Bisque of Crayfish— Crayfish have always to be 
prepared for cooking by removing the intestine 
which would make them bitter; it is done by picking 
the extreme end of the center fin and with a sudden 
jerk withdrawing the gist containing the gall. The 
bisque is a puree of crayfish and rice. Made same 
as bisque of crabs (which see), finished with butter, 
Madeira, red pepper, and the tails of the crayfish 
reserved for the purpose. ( 5 'e^ Bisque.) 

CREAM—A new process has been invented re¬ 
cently for separating cream from milk mechanically; 
the appliance is called ‘‘Laval’s separator.” This 
contrivance has quite revolutionized the ordinary 
round of operations in the dairy. Instead of allow¬ 
ing the milk to stand in large shallow pans for sev¬ 
eral hours, so as to permit the cream to separate 
and rise to the top in virtue of gravity, the separator 
takes advantage of the so-called centrifugal force, 
and, by rapidly whirling the milk round at the rate 
of over 5,000 revolutions a minute, the cream collects 
at the centre, whilst the skim-milk passes to the 
circumference, and each can be readily drawn off 
immediately and continuously. Clotted Cream— 
A Devonshire specialty, but a common enough pro¬ 
duct of New England dairies. The pans of milk 
are heated before they are put away for the cream 
to rise and let stand for two days. The cream so 
gathered is clotted; it is considered a luxury to eat 
with fruit and hot cakes. ‘‘An attractive looking 
temperance kiosk for the sale of dairy products and 
light refreshments. The six-penny plates of pre¬ 
served apricots and clotted cream obtainable here 
are liberal as to quantity, and present a really deli¬ 
cious combination.” 

CREAMER—A contrivance of deep cans with a 
faucet in the bottom of each, placed in a framed box 
constructed to hold water and ice around them. The 
cans are filled with milk, the cream rising to the 
top, the skim-milk being drawn off at the bottom 
without disturbing the upper surface. Useful for 
hotels. 

CREAMERY—A factory where butter is made 
in a wholesale way from the milk of hundreds of 
cows at once. 







296 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 
- j, - 


CRE 

CREAM CHEESE—The easiest cheese to make, 
and one which is much appreciated with salad; the 
hest time for it is when the grass is rich in early 
summer. A pan of milk is allowed to stand 36 
hours, the cream taken off, salted a little, poured 
into a napkin set in a dish; the cloth absorbs the 
watery part of the cream. When it has stood 24 
hours the cream is moulded into cheese shape; 
ready to eat in 4 or 5 days; will not keep over a week 
or two. Cream Cheese Fritters— Sweet or sa¬ 
vory. Cream cheese (about Yz lb.) rubbed through 
a seive, 3 tablespoons bread-crumbs, 1 egg, 1 table¬ 
spoon sugar, orange flavor, made in balls, floured, 
fried; wine sauce. The same is done without sugar, 
with savory seasonings. 

CREAM CURD — Milk curdled with rennet, 
mixed with cream, drained in a cloth. Used for 
making real cheese cakes, mixed with sugar, butter- 
eggs, bread-crumbs, flavorings; baked in a crust 
Cream Curd Pudding — The curd mixed with 
currants, citron, pounded crackers, sugar, eggs 
flavorings; baked. 

CREAM FRITTERS — Oblong or diamond¬ 
shaped pieces of rich corn starch pudding mixture, 
or of custard stiffened with flour, rolled in flour, 
dipped in egg and cracker dust, fried; sugared or 
served with wine sauce. 

CREAM TARTS —Darioles, viirlitons or fan- 
chonettes. 

CREAM PUFFS —Choux paste; made of i pint 
water, 8 oz. lard or butter, 9 oz. flour, 10 eggs. 
First three ingredients made into cooked paste over 
the lire, eggs beaten in; dropped on pans; baked. 
The cakes rise and become quite hollow. They are 
cut in the side and filled with whipped cream or 
custard. 

CREAM SAUCE—Made by stirring flour and 
butter together over the fire until it begins to bubble, 
then adding milk, with constant stirring; finishing 
with salt and lumps of butter beaten in, and cream. 
Cream Bechamel —Various qualities of cream 
sauce are made by using seasoned chicken broth and 
mushroom liquor instead of milk, but finishing with 
cream. Cream cannot be boiled with rich gelatinous 
broth without curdling. 

CREMES (Fr.)—Creams. Bavarian creams. A 
class of gelatinized cream compounds; a more elab¬ 
orate sort of blanc-mange, whipped while setting 
on ice to make it spongy and delicate. Creme a 
la Bavaroise —Whipped cream with gelatine dis. 
solved in syrup mixed in; about Y oz. gelatine to 1 
qt. Bavaroise au Gingembre— Ginger cream. 
Preserved ginger pounded, mixed with syrup and 
gelatine, mixed with whipped cream; set in moulds 
on ice; served with cake. Creme Bavaroise a la 
Praslin —Almond nougat-candy pounded and dis¬ 
solved with boiling milk, gelatine and whipped 
cream added; moulded on ice. Creme au Ciioco- 
lat— Chocolate cream; some chocolate dissolved in 
hot milk, mixed with whipped cream, sugar and 


CRE 

vanilla. Petits Pots de Creme— These creams 
of any kind set in individual cups instead of a large 
mould. Creme au Cafe— Bavarois flavored with 
coffee. Creme de The —Bavarois flavored with 
tea. Creme a la IIollandaise— Bavarois made 
yellow with yolks, wine added, or, a yellow custard 
with gelatine and whipped cream flavored with 
wine. Creme aux Abricots — Apricot pulp, 
sugar and gelatine added to whipped cream. Creme 
a la Vanille —Bavarian flavored with vanilla. 
Creme de Oranges— Bavarois made with orange^ 
syrup, gelatine and whipped cream. Creme de 
Fraises —Strawberry Bavarian. Creme de Ponche. 
—Bavarois (or Bavarian cream) flavored with punch. 
Creme de Framboises — Raspberry Bavarian; 
raspberry pulp and syrup with gelatine in whipped 
cream. Creme aux Mille Fruits — Bavarian 
cream, with a mixture of various candied fruits. 
Creme a la Celestine— A mould lined with 
strawberries and filled with Bavarian of any color 
or flavor. Creme Brulee —Bavarois made of yel¬ 
low custard flavored with caramel, sugar and cinna¬ 
mon. Creme a l’Arlequin —Bavarois with cubes 
of different colors of clear wine jelly stirred into 
when on the point of setting. Creme a l’Ita- 
lienne —Bavarois with a mixture of sultana raisins, 
candied peel, dried cherries; cinnamon and curacao 
for flavoring. Creme Bavarois aux Fruits— 
Bavarian cream served with a compote of fruit. 
Curacao Cream —Yolk of egg custard, well flav¬ 
ored with Curasao, dissolved gelatine mixed in and 
whipped cream added; set on ice. Strawberry 
Cream— Berries with sugar passed through a seive; 
gelatine dissolved in syrup, all mixed with whipped 
cream; set on ice. An ounce of gelatine to a quart 
is not too much when fruit is added; for whipped 
cream alone Y oz - to a quart, before whipped, is 
enough, as too much makes the cream tough. Dec¬ 
orated Cream —Yellow custard with gelatine and 
whipped cream flavored with vanilla. Some of the 
gelatine custard colored pink on a plate on ice; leaf 
shapes stamped out of it when set, and the mould 
decorated with a pattern in pink leaves; filled up, 
set on ice. Pistache Cream— Made of 1 oz. gela¬ 
tine, 4 oz. sugar, Y pt. water, hot, to dissolve the 
gelatine, 1 gill sherry, 1 gill kirsch added; 4 oz. 
pistachio nuts blanched and chopped fine, green 
coloring, 1 pt. thick cream, whipped, all mixed, 
stirred on ice till thick enough to hold up the nuts, 
then put in mould. It is a light green cream; can 
be put into a mould imitating a bunch of asparagus. 
Creme Fouettee — Whipped cream. Crime 
Fouettee aux Fraises — Whipped cream with 
strawberries. 

CREME FRITE (Fr.) — Fried cream; cream 
fritters. Creme Frite au Chocolat— Chocolate 
corn-starch custard, breaded and fried. 

CREME RENVERSEE AU CARAMEL— 
Custard upside down with caramel; made by lining 
a mould, or small ipdividual moulds, with melted 
sugar (caramel), either by melting it by heat in the 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


297 


C RE 

mould or pouring in from a kettle, letting it run and 
set in candy on the sides, then filling up with a 
strong custard and steaming till just set. The 
candy casing partly dissolves while the custard is 
steaming, and serves as sauce when turned out of 
the mould. Served as pudding. 

CREOLE—Name applied to the people born in 
the colonies of France and Spain of parents who 
were subjects of those countries. They were denied 
equal rights with citizens born in the old countries, 
although belonging to the same government. “The 
•elements which Spain contributed to the establish¬ 
ment of the Mexican nationality were the oppres¬ 
sive exactions laid upon the people of the colony, 
the foolish refusal to recognize as equals the Amer¬ 
ican-born children of Spanish subjects (thence 
called Creoles), and the ambition of her officials. 
Indian hate and the Creole sense of injustice of 
Spanish rule, were the real impulses that secured 
Mexican independence.” 

CREOLE COOKERY—It is simply the cooking 
of their ancestors’ country. If a banquet for Creoles 
had to be prepared with Creole dishes; it would be 
sufficient, if they were of French descent, to furnish 
all such dishes as are denominated a la Provencale. 
The cookery of old French Louisiana is the same as 
the cookery of the south of France. A few special¬ 
ties have taken root, such as gumbo, courtbouillon, 
jambalaya, pilau rissotto, bouillabaisse, and the 
like, but not half of them are new dishes. 

CREPE (Fr.)—Pancake. “ But if the pancake is 
an honored institution with us, it is much more so 
on the Continent. There, across the * silver streak,’ 
but more especially in the Latin countries, the crefe 
is adored for itself and as a symbol. It is the crown¬ 
ing, the full essence, of the joyous, rackety carnival 
week. The happy and harmless saturnalia culmin¬ 
ates in a grand Mardi Gras and universal pancake 
tossing. Children, both big and small, as the day 
draws to a close, give way to their pent-up feelings 
in song: 

* Mardi Gras ne t’en vas pas, 

Nous ferons des crapes, 

Nous ferons des crepes! 

Mardi Gras ne t’en vas pas, 

Nous ferons des crepes, 

Et tu en auras! ’ 

They do so, too. Why, every house in France, let 
the menage re be never so stingy on other occasions, 
always has ready a good supply of batter, eggs, lard 
or butter, to say nothing of sugar and lemons. And 
then, as the night steals gently on, what a to-do 
there is! frying everywhere; housewives and willing 
aids tossing the brown curling morsels with won¬ 
drous energy and happy knack, to the tune of a ver- 
icable hurricane of merry laughter. In Southern 
Germany the calm ladies also toss pancakes for 
their stolid housefolk and invited guests. As for the 
Italian pancake, it is not what it ought to be. It is 
too thick and heavy, and liberally supplied with 
eggs, deficient in crispness, and is generally fried in 
oil. The Provencal pancake is light and good, but 


CRO 

flavored with orange-flower water, and fried in a 
very little thoroughly boiling oil. On some parts of 
the Ligurian coast finely-minced beta (a green, leafy 
vegetable, somewhat resembling spinach) is mixed 
in the batter. In Spain, ripe-pickled olives (purple- 
brown and full of oil) are sliced and mixed with the 
paste; they are fried in olive-oil. Both these are 
eaten as sweet dishes, in spite of the, to us, unusual 
ingredients.” ( See Pancakes .) 

CREPINETTES — Small, thin pancakes made 
into turnovers with shredded bacon and truffles and 
some highly seasoned chicken forcemeat inclosed in 
the fold; brushed over with egg; baked; served with 
gravy, also flat sausages. 

CRESSON (Fr.)—Cress. Poultry snipe, or any 
dish au cresson, is roasted and served with law 
cress in the dish, and the gravy in a sauce l oat 
separate. 

CRESS—Water-cress or garden-cress; both are 
used the same way, either as an accompaniment and 
relish with roast fowl; eaten alone with salt, or 
combined in a salad. 

CRESCENTS — (/)-Rolls of the Vienna-bread 
variety in crescent shape made up with milk; hand¬ 
somely glazed. (2)-Shapes of Genoise cake, with 
water icing of various colors; cut out from sheets. 
(j)-Glazed crescents are also a kind of French bon¬ 
bons, called cavissants. 

CREVETTES (Fr.)—Shrimps. 

CREVETTES-BOUQUETS—“A corespondence 
was going on some time ago in the pages of the 
World , between Theoc, the Parisian correspondent 
of that journal, and another, as to the French for 
‘ prawn.’ Theoc stated, and rightly, that the French 
for prawn is bouquet. Bouquet , according to Littre, 
is the diminutive of bone —a goat, from the appear¬ 
ance of this shell fish. It is usual, however, in 
French restaurant bills of fare to prefix the word 
crevettes, thus: Crevettes-Bouquet, though, to be 
grammatically correct, it should be written Crevettes- 
Bouquets. It is from Brittany that red shrimps (in 
contradistinction to gray shrimps) are chiefly pro¬ 
cured. In Paris these fetch a high price, about double 
that paid for the dull-colored variety, than which 
they are much less flavored. Shrimps here are called 
chevrettes, or ‘ little gouts.’ The word chevettes is 
derived from chevrettes, just as bouquets , or prawns, 
is derived from bouc-ettes, or * little rams.’ Shrimps 
and prawns alike are boiled in large quantities daily, 
and sent up to Paris in time for the morning’s mar¬ 
kets, by the special fish, or maree, train.” 

CROMESQLTS—Kromeskies. Russian name for 
a sort of rissole. Cromesquis de Huitres— Oys¬ 
ters rolled in very thin shavings of bacon; dipped 
in batter; fried in hot lard. ' ( See Kromeskies.) 

CROQL r ENBOUCIIE—“The name given to all 
large set pieces for suppers or dinners, such as 
nougats, cakes, pyramids of candied orange quar¬ 
ters, etc., which have been covered with sugar, and 






298 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CRO 

boiled to a snap, so as to give a brilliant appearance. 
The real meaning of croqueiibonche is * crackle in the 
mouth.’ ” 

CROQUETTES—The word signifies something 
crisp. Croquettes are balls or any shape of almost 
any eatable thing, floured or bread-crumbed and 
fried in plenty of hot fat, then drained on paper. 
Chicken Croquettes a l’Italienne —Meat of i 
large chicken cut in very small squares, half as 
much mushrooms; little chopped shallot; butter and 
flour fried together; broth added to make thick 
sauce; yolks of eggs, chicken and mushrooms stirred 
into the sauce; made cold; rolled into pear shapes, 
or rolls; breaded; fried; served with Italian sauce. 
Croquettes of Beef Palates —Beef palates par¬ 
boiled and skinned; cooked 3 hours, and pressed; 
cut in small dice; made same as chicken croquettes; 
tomato sauce. Croquettes de Homard— Lobster 
croquettes; the meat, coral, white sauce, yolks of 
eggs, and butter, made into smooth long rolls; 
breaded; fried; served with any fish sauce, which 
then gives the name, as with Hollandaise sauce. 
Croquettes deCerveli.es —Brains scrambled with 
bread crumbs, milk, flour, yolks, little minced shallot, 
nutmeg, lemon juice, pepper, salt, parsley; made in 
cone or pear shapes; breaded; fried. Croquettes 
de Volaille aux Truffes —Chicken with truffles 
mixed in, instead of mushrooms, and served with 
truffle sauce. Croquettes de Volaille a l’Ecar- 
late —With red tongue in the composition and in 
the sauce. Croquettes de Pommes —Apple mar¬ 
malade stiffened with corn starch; cooled; cut in ob¬ 
longs; breaded; fried; served with sweet sauce or 
jelly. Croquttes de Riz— Rice boiled dry, slightly 
sweetened; butter and yolks added; made in pear 
shapes; floured; breaded; fried; currant jelly for 
sauce. Croquettes de Riz de Veau —Calves’ 
sweetbreads; same way as chicken or brains. Cro¬ 
quettes of Rice and Ham— A London caterer’s 
specialty. Potted ham or tongue made in small 
balls; rice cooked and seasoned; yolks and whipped 
whites added; the ham balls covered with the rice 
paste; egged; rolled in ground pop-corn; fried; 
white sauce containing lemon juice. Turkey Cro¬ 
quettes —Made of 1 lb. cold turkey, lb. bread 
crumbs, lb. butter, 1 teaspoon onion, 4 eggs, 
parsley, little nutmeg, salt, cayenne, sweet cream; 
bread wetted with cream, butter and eggs; stirred 
over the fire, chopped meat added; cooled; balled up; 
fried. Croquettes de Macaroni— Macaroni and 
cheese in croquette form. 

CROQUANTE-Something made of brittle candy; 
a shape made of almond nougat, a case formed of a 
brittle cake, made of equal parts of pounded nuts, 
sugar and flour; to be filled with crystalized fruit, etc. 

CROSNES DU JAPON— Stachvs\ a Japanese 
vegetable of the Jerusalem artichoke order, now 
grown in France. 

CROUTES (Fr.)—Crusts; fried shapes of bread. 
Croutes aux Anchois —Small pieces of fried bread 


CRY 

spread with anchovy butter and filleted anchovy on 
top. Croutes au JAMBON-Fried bread spread with 
potted ham. Croutes aux Ananas —Shapes o£ 
fried bread with compote of pineapple. Croutes; 
aux Fraises a la Bellerive—F rench strawberry 
shortcake; strawberries on hot buttered rusks.— 
Croutes aux Abricots — Ornamentally shaped 
slices of bread fried in clear butter with compote or 
preserved apricots; the apricot syrup colored with 
currant jelly poured over. 

CROUSTADE—The same thing made of bread 
and fried as a casserole or cassolette, which are 
made of rice or potato; a case, large or small, and 
more or less ornamentally carved. 

CROUTONS or CRUTONS —Croutes in small,, 
thin, fancy shapes, such as heart or leaf shapes, 
used to place around and decorate an entree; cubes- 
of bread toasted in the oven, or fried, to serve with 
soup, especially with soups made of beans, peas, or 
lentils. 

CROUTE-AU-POT—Name of a vegetable soup 
finished with triangular thin pieces of brown toasted 
bread. 

CRULLERS—Fried cakes; doughnuts. 

CRULLS—Of potatoes; curls, spirals, or long 
strings to fry. There are special tools made for 
cutting these. 

CRUMPETS—English name for a yeast-raised 
kind of batter cake, not rich, but light; sold by bak¬ 
ers who make it their business. 

CRUST SOUP— Croute-au-Pot. (See soups.) 

CRYSTALLIZED FRUITS-“The process is 
quite simple. The theory is to extract the juice 
from the fruit and replace it with sugar-syrup, 
which, upon hardening, preserves the fruit from 
decay and, at the same time, retains the natural shape 
of the fruit. All kinds of fruit are capable of being 
preserved under this process. The exact degree of 
ripeness is of great importance, which is at that 
stage when fruit is best for canning. Peaches, pears, 
etc., are pared and cut in halves as for canning; 
plums, cherries, etc., are pitted. The fruit having 
thus been carefully prepared, is then put in a basket 
or a bucket, with a perforated bottom, and immersed 
in boiling water. The object of this is to dilute and 
extract the juice of the fruit. The length of the time 
the fruit is immersed is the most important part of 
the process. If left too long, it is overcooked and be¬ 
comes soft; if not immersed long enough, the juice 
is not sufficiently extracted, which prevents a per¬ 
fect absorbtion of the sugar. The next step is the 
syrup, which is made of white sugar and water. 
The softer the fruit, the heavier the syrup required. 
Ordinarily about 70 degrees Balling’s saccharometer 
is the proper weight for the syrup. The fruit is then 
placed in earthen pans, and covered with the syrup, 
where it is left to remain about a week. The sugar 
enters the fruit and displaces what juice remained 
after the scalding process. The fruit now requires 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


209 


cue 

careful watching, as fermentation will soon take 
place; and when this has reached a certain stage, 
the fruit and syrup is heated to a boiling degree, 
which checks the fermentation. This heating process 
should be repeated as often as necessary for about 
six weeks. The fruit is then taken out of the syrup 
and washed in clean water, and is then ready to be 
either glazed or crystallized, as the operator may 
wish. If glazed, the fruit is dipped in thick sugar- 
syrup, and left to harden quickly in open air. If it 
is to be crystallized, dip in the same kind of syrup, 
but is made to cool and harden slowly, thus causing 
the sugar, which covers the fruit, to crystallize. 
The fruit is now ready for boxing and shipping. 
Fruit thus prepared will keep in any climate and 
stand transportation.” For Dessert —“Crystall¬ 
ized fruits make a very acceptable dish for dessert; 
they ornament the table and please the palate. They 
should be arranged with due regal'd to color, the 
darker hues, such as greengages, being used for the 
base, and the brighter ones, such as apricots and 
oranges, for the upper part, the chinks and crevices 
being filled with cherries and raspberries.” Crys¬ 
tallized Violets —For 1% lbs. fresh violet blos¬ 
soms 2^ lbs. sugar; dissolved over the fire with 
small cup water, and boiled. The violets are par¬ 
boiled in water, drained out, then put into this syrup 
and boiled io minutes; then drained on a seive. 
Little more syrup made of i lb. loaf sugar with % 
cup water, violets put in, and stirred till syrup gran¬ 
ulates; then taken up and dried. Rose-leaves same 
way. 

CUCUMBER—Though generally eaten raw as 
a salad it is good to cook in various ways. Fried 
Cucumbers —Cut in slices, wiped dry, floured, 
fried in hot fat, salted, peppered. Cucumber and 
Eggs —The cucumber in si ices, floured, simmered in 
stock with parsley and lumps of sugar 15 minutes; 
2 yolks added, sugar, vinegar and Worcestershire 
sauce, the yolks only to thicken the sauce. Fricas¬ 
seed Cucumbers —Same as the foregoing. Boiled 
Cucumbers —Sliced, boiled in salted water till ten¬ 
der, taken up, served in gravy on croutes. Stuffed 
Cucumbers —Seeds removed after peeling, stuffed 
with forcemeat of bread, suet, herbs and raw egg, 
boiled in milk till tender, then breaded and fried, 
either whole or to garnish a dish, cut across in 
slices. Cucumber Puree —served with various 
dishes of chicken, veal, lamb, fish, etc., made by 
first parboiling cucumbers in pieces, then simmering 
with butter, adding salt, pepper, sugar, flour and 
milk to make sauce of it, passing all through a 
seive. Cucumbers a la Bechamel— Pared, quar¬ 
tered, boiled in salted water, drained, covered with 
cream sauce containing little sugar. Concombres 
a la Creme —Slices in cream sauce. Concombres i 
a la Moelle —Stuffed with bread and marrow; 
brown sauce. Concombres a la Poulette —In 
cream colored sauce. Concombres Farcies a la 
Creme —Stuffed cucumbers in cream sauce contain¬ 
ing- sugar. Concombres Farcies a l’Espagnole 


CUM 

—Stuffed in short lengths, the center core being re¬ 
moved with a cutter, stewed in brown sauce. Cu¬ 
cumber Soups —Puree of cucumbers is white, made 
chiefly of miik and mashed cucumber. Garbure 
with Cucumbers —Stewed cucumbers on crusts 
baked in soup to dryness, served with broth. Con¬ 
somme a la Beauvilliers— Has stuffed pieces of 
cucumber and crusts in the plates. Cucumbers in 
Stews —Cucumber may be added to any soup or 
stew, and is especially good in a rich haricot. Cut 
in thin slices and add at the last moment; boil up 
for a few seconds only, and the dish may then be 
served. If the cucumber is cooked for any length of 
time, it will melt away. This may be allowed in 
the case of a haricot, as the flavor will be there if 
the slices are no longer visible. A few thin slices 
boiled up in a light soup make an elegant variation, 
and will always gratify the guests as a change. 
Cucumber Pickles—Y ouug cucumbers are thrown 
into brine as gathered, taken out and freshened at 
any time, scalded two or three times in boiling vine¬ 
gar, but not cooked to softness. Pepper and spice 
in the vinegar. Salt Cucumber Salad —Taken out 
of the brine, cut up and freshened in cold water, 
chopped, mixed with chopped celery, eaten with 
oil, vinegar and pepper. Cucumbers to keep— 
Packed down in salt and water as they are gathered 
they keep for months; packed in layers with brown 
sugar between they change to pickles without 
further attention. Must be pressed under the liquor 
with a weight on top. 

CUISSES (Fr.)—Legs. Cuisses de Volaille a 
la Jardiniere —Legs of fowl boned, stuffed, 
braised, served with mixed vegetables in sauce. 
Cuisses de Volaille a la Bayonnaise —Boned, 
fried with onions in oil, sauce added, bread crumbs 
over, browned in the oven. Cuisses de Volaille 
Farcies aux Petits Legumes— Boned, stuffed, 
braised, on a rice border with fancy shapes of veg¬ 
etables in a brown sauce. Cuisses de Volaille a 
l’Ecaillere — Boned and stuffed with chopped 
oysters and crumbs, served with oyster sauce. 
Cuisses d’Oie a la Lyonnaise —Legs of goose 
previously roasted, cut up, fried with onion, served 
with piquantersauce. Salmis de Cuisses de Can- 
etons —Legs of roast duck stewed in gravy with 
wine. 

CUISINE (Fr.)—Kitchen; cookery. Faire la 
Cuisine —to do the cooking. Cuisinier —Man cook. 
Cuisiniere —Woman cook. 

CULINARIAN—A professor of the culinary art; 
an expert in the literature and practice of cookery 
in all its branches. 

CULLIS OR COULIS—Broth of meat or fish 
unseasoned, for use in the preparation of dishes for 
the table. Blond bouillon or stock. 

CUMBERLAND STEW—American hotel spec¬ 
ialty, made of 7 squirrels, 2 capons, 2 lbs. butter, 12 
cans each corn and tomatoes, 2 cans lima beans, 4 
loaves bread, salt, red pepper, 1 onion, 1 pint wine. 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


300 


CUL 

Scuirrels and fowls cut up and half cooked in butter, 
water and wine, vegetables added, bread crumbed 
in; stewed constantly till sufficiently tender. 

CULOTTE DE BEEF A LA FLAMANDE— 
Round of beef with Brussels sprouts and other 
vegetables glazed. 

CURACAO—A cordial; syrup with orange and 
clove flavors, and alcohol, used in flavoring creams, 
jellies, sauces, and in mixed bar drinks and punches. 

CURRY POWDER—A yellow powder, of which 
the principal ingredient is turmeric, a species of 
ginger; used as a high seasoning for stews and all 
dishes a /’Indietme. It can be purchased every¬ 
where, ready-prepared in bottles, or the same thing 
in the form of paste. It is made of slightly varying 
ingredients; this is a sample of what the curry-fla 
vorings are, when put together as wanted by the 
native cooks of India: “Anglo-Indian Fowl- 
Curry — Materials required: (i) A small fully 
grown chicken of about one pound and a half in 
weight; (2) two ounces of clarified cooking-butter, 
lard, or olive-oil; (3) three medium-sized onions, 
sliced finely lengthwise; (4) two tablespoonfuls of 
picked, roasted coriander-seeds ground to a paste 
with a little water; (5) one teaspoonful of clean ripe 
cumin-seeds roasted, and ground to a fine pulp with 
water; (6) one teaspoonful of the large variety of 
black mustard-seeds reduced to a stiff paste, mixed 
with water; (7) four large, selected, hot, long-podded, 
red chillies, preferably fresh, ground to a fine paste; 
(8) eighteen or twenty large, black peppercorns, 
broiled and ground to a paste with water; (9) seven 
fragrant vendium-seeds of the smallest variety, 
ground to a very fine powder and mixed with a little 
water; (10) a piece of fresh turmeric, or a bit of re¬ 
vived turmeric rhizome, about an inch in length, 
ground to a stiff paste; (11) half a clove of fresh 
garlic, sliced and then mashed finely, or enough 
pulped garlic to yield about a quarter of a teaspoon- 
ful; (12) half a lime, or small lemon; (13) one cocoa- 
nut; (14) one teaspoonful and a half of salt; (15) one 
dessertspoonful of moist sugar; (16) sufficient 
water.” 

CURRIES—Any kind of meat, fish, game, or 
vegetables, cooked with curry powder, is called a 
curry of that particular "kind. Curry of Lamb— 
Some onions are fried brown in butter, then taken 
out; a tablespoonful curry powder wetted with 
water stirred into the onion-butter and cooked 10 
minutes; meat cut small, an onion, an apple; all 
stewed in the curry sauce for one or two hours, 
with broth added if needed. The meat to be tender 
enough to be eaten with a spoon; browned onions 
mixed in; served with rice. 

CURRY QUOTATIONS —For mentis : “When 
you talk of Ceylon and the picturesque city of Co¬ 
lombo and the ancient city of Kandy, your thoughts 
naturally revert to curry. The prawn curry of the 
Grand Oriental Hotel in the old Dutch port at Co¬ 
lombo is renowned throughout the East; and they 


CUR 

give you with it—in addition to Bombay ducks— 
‘poppedoms,’ if that be the right way of spelling 
the articles in question, something like passover- 
cakes fried in ghee or liquefied butter.”—“Many of 
the London clubs have their culinary specialties. 
Thus, the Oriental, in Hanover Square, has long 
been celebrated for its curried prawns; the Garrick 
for its porter-house steaks and marrow-bones; the 
Junior Garrick for its mutton broth; the Windham 
for a dish known as ‘all sorts,’ named after the 17th 
Lancers; another club for its tripe and onions; while 
the grill at the little Beef-steak, over Toole’s The¬ 
atre, is unique.”—“The secret of making curried 
prawns in perfection is to flavor them with tama¬ 
rinds.”—“A little tamarind, scraped apple, or lemon 
juice may now be added to impart the much-desired 
sub-acid flavoring, and lastly, a cupful of cocoanut- 
milk about three minutes previously to dishing up.” 
“Colonel Yule, in his ‘Glossary of Anglo-Indian 
Terms,’ cites a passage, quoted by Athemeus from 
Megathenes, which is said to be the oldest indication 
of the use of curry in India. The earliest unequiv¬ 
ocal mention of it is in the Mahavauso, the earlier 
chapters of which date from the fifth century, A.D. 
But it is as precisely referred to in another of the 
ancient books of Ceylon, the Rajavali, which is, I 
believe, held to belong, at least in its original form, 
to the second century, A.D.”—“ Boiled rice should 
always be served with every kind of curry, and, as a 
rule, it should be served separate and handed before 
the curry. The orthodox fashion of helping one’s 
self to curry, is to take a spoonful of rice and place 
it on a plate, making a well in the center. The curry 
itself should then be placed in the middle, and the 
whole eaten with a fork. The rice should be so 
boiled that every grain is not only tender, but separ¬ 
ated from every other grain.” —“ A spoonful of the 
cocoanut kernel, pounded, gives a very delicate fla¬ 
vor to a curry of chicken.”—“All curries are the 
better for a suspicion of a sweet aeid taste. The juice 
of a lime, with moist sugar dissolved in it, answers 
very well, or a tablespoonful of red-currant jelly 
and one of chutney, or a tablespoonful of sweet 
chutney and the juice of a lime or lemon; any of 
these combinations will give the desired sub-acid 
flavoring.” How to Serve— “ Serve the curry by 
itself in a side dish, separate from the rice. One 
tablespoonful of curry ought to suffice for six table¬ 
spoonfuls of rice, and should be partaken of with a 
dessert-spoon and fork, and not with a knife and 
fork. A teaspoonful of Burmese Mango Chutney , 
taken with a plateful of rice and curry as above, 
will be found very acceptable by most persons. Rice 
and curry should not be made a principal dish at 
dinner: its true place on the menu is, without doubt, 
a final entree .” —“ Nabob CuRRY-Consists of small 
pieces of minced meat, which are rolled into balls 
about the size of a marble. These marbles are then 
floured and fried (if possible in the curry fat) and 
sent to table with the curry sauce poured round 
them. Sykabob Curry— Consists of slices of meat. 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


801 


CUR 

potato, onion and green ginger, stuck on a skewer. 
These are served up in the curry, thus skewered to¬ 
gether. One of the most delicious curries known is 
the Cingalese Prawn Curry —This dish can be 
made either from fresh prawns or from canned or 
potted ones, which are cheaper, but not so good. 
The Barataria prawns are the best kind canned. 
In making curry from fresh prawns, the white meat 
sof the prawn is served up in the curry sauce, but be 
sure and take all the heads off the prawns and 
pound them in the curry sauce, so as to extract 
whai may be called the goodness out of the head— 
the little lumps which correspond to the green part 
of a lobster. Vegetable Curry —Is exceedingly 
nice, and is not so often met with in this country as 
it deserves. Every kind of vegetable can be used 
mixed together, and a very nice simple dish can be 
made by merely opening a tin of macedoins. Cur- 
jried Sausages —Form a very nice breakfast dish, 
which simply consists in pouring curry sauce over 
.some fried sausages. Curried Sardines, or Pil¬ 
chards —Form an excellent breakfast dish. 

CURRANTS— Zante Currants ; a kind of small 
raisins used in fruit cake and puddings. The largest 
-and cleanest are the most economical to buy, as the 
inferior grades are little else but dirt and stems. To 
-clean currants, they should be washed in a perfor¬ 
ated colander, set in a pan of water, and stirred 
around that the trash may fall through the holes. 

CURRANTS— Garde?i Currants are of three 
kinds and several varieties; the red and white are 
nearly alike and are used for the table and for cook¬ 
ing and making currant jelly; the black currant is 
distinct in flavor and used to a limited extent as a pie 
fruit and for wine. These currants only reach per¬ 
fection in a moist and cold climate. Green Cur¬ 
rant Pudding — Currants before they are ripe 
picked from stems, filled into a bowl lined with 
short paste, well sugared, covered with a paste top; 
tied down in a cloth; boiled an hour or more. Red- 
Currant Jelly— Is made by boiling i pint ex¬ 
pressed pulp and juice with i lb. sugar. Currant 
Liqueur— A cordial; made of 2 lbs. red currants, 2 
tps. whisky, thin rind of 4 lemons, 2 oz. ground 
ginger; let stand 48 hours, then strained through 
flannel jelly bag; to each quait 1 lb. sugar dissolved 
and boiled to syrup; well mixed; then bottled. Iced 
Currants— Ripe currants sugared over or frosted 
by dipping in white of egg beaten with little water; 
then rolling in powdered sugar and drying for the 
table. Other uses for pies, ices, etc., same as other 
fruits. 

CUSSY {de)— A name often met with in relation 
to gastronomical subjects. “ The Marquis de Cussy 
was a notable man enough in his day. It was he 
who was escorting the Empress Marie Louise back 
to Vienna when at Parma he heard of Napoleon’s 
• escape from Elba. Planting her there, he retraced 
his steps immediately and found his master back at 
the Tuileries, where he himself was an excellent 


CUS 

prefect of the palace; but, the Hundred Days once 
over, he found himself suddenly a pauper, having 
always managed to combine indifference to his own 
interests with lavishness to others. This and his 
charms of manner made him popular, and he pos¬ 
sessed that first talent of a born conversationist—a 
lending ear. But he was a born gourmet , too, and 
fully acted up to Colnet’s line: ‘ Quand on donne 
a diner, on a toujours raison.’ Great cooks struggled 
for his kitchen, and stayed with him seven years. 
He gave a dinner once a week, never to more than 
pleven guests, and it lasted two hours. He cites 
\yith approval in his ‘Art Culinaire ’ one of the 
stories about that very unpleasant person Diogenes, 
who, seeing a child eating too fast, fetched the boy’s 
tutor a rousing cuff. De Cussy’s own rigid rule 
was to eat moderately and to sip his liquors; and 
he preached putting down the knife and fork while 
still hungry, and then taking several glasses of an 
old wine, munching crisp breadcrust the while. 
Perhaps these were some of the reasons why the 
camel never refused, and explained his ‘easily di¬ 
gesting a whole red-legged partridge’ on the very 
day of his death, at the age of seventy-four. Many 
a well-advised man nowadays would as soon eat 
Tom Jones’ Partridge body and bones; and there 
have been what a vain world calls nobler deaths, to 
be sure, and different illustrations of Hamlet’s grave 
dictum that ‘ the readiness is all; ’ still we need not 
be too exclusive. This \>2Lrt\cu\&\- gourmet had the 
smooth-skinned, pink complexion of many an old- 
fashioned London merchant—in the daytime, that is; 
but a clever caricature of him by Dantan, which 
displays the bust of a heavy-chopped, bloated old 
gormandizer, with a great Yorkshire pie for ped¬ 
estal, must also have been too near the truth, per¬ 
haps, after dinner; for one of his sayings to Brillat- 
Savarin, who would have mirrors in his dining 
room, was that a man should only look in the glass 
fasting. After this it would be of no use at all his 
telling us that he could take up his pen immediately 
after dinner in full possession of his ideas, if we did 
not know from his sorry writings that he could not 
tack two ideas together, and that, whatever his 
practice was, his theories about cookery were not 
worth the charcoal for testing them.” De Cussy is 
quoted nowadays occasionally, because he did write 
of L'Art Culinaire , and of Careme, and of his 
contemporary gourmets and entertainers. ‘‘M. de 
Cussy, who, when young, had been patronized by 
Marie Antoinette, and who in later years was about 
the court of Marie Louise, failed to obtain a small 
place under Louis XVIII till the discriminating 
monarch was told that the mixture of strawberries, 
cream, and champagne, which possesses such a re¬ 
fined flavor, was the creation of the aged gastro¬ 
nome, Consomme a la Cussy — Game broth; 
royale custards made with 10 yolks, 2 eggs, 1 pint 
puree of game and little cream; game meat, mush¬ 
rooms and boiled chestnuts served with it. 

CUSTARD—A mixture of milk and eggs, cooked 








302 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


CUT 

only to boiling point, generally with sugar and fla¬ 
vorings added. The standard rule is S eggs to i 
qt. milk and 6 oz. sugar; but custard is made with 4 
eggs to a quart, also with 8 yolks only; also with 2 
or 3 eggs aT, d flour or starch to substitute the re¬ 
mainder. Custard, whether boiled, steamed or 
baked, is thickest and perfect only when it reaches 
the boiling point; with longer cooking it turns thin 
and separates into curd and water. Custard Pud¬ 
ding —Firm enough to turn out of mould; made of 
1 pint milk, boiled with stick cinnamon and grated 
lemon rind, cooled, mixed with 3 yolks and 5 whole 
eggs well whipped, and sugar. Steamed in mould 
till set. Custard Flavorings— Orange flower 
water, orange extract, lemon, vanilla and rose, bay 
leaf, nutmeg, cinnamon, almond. Custard Pie— 
Plate lined with short-paste, filled to the brim with 
raw custard, baked till set. Cup Custards —Boiled 
custard, made by pouring boiling milk, sweetened, 
to whipped eggs, or eggs and starch, and 
cooking only till about to boil again; filled into 
custard cups. Chocolate Custard Meringues— 
Boiled custard with 1 oz. chocolate in each quart, 
filled in cups, whipped whites and sugar on top 
lightly browned. Custard Pudding— Plain cus¬ 
tard baked in a pudding dish. Cocoanut Custard 
—Cocoanut mixed in raw custard to bake or in the 
hot milk for boiled custards. Custard Roly-Poly 
—Custard made firm with 12 eggs, steamed, then 
sliced on a thin sheet of paste; strawberry jam 
spread upon the custard, all very thin, rolled up in 
a pudding cloth, steamed 1 y 2 hours; served with 
sauce. 

CUTLETS—Chops, meaning the rib bone chops, 
veal steaks are, however, called cutlets. There are 
cutlets proper of lamb, mutton, pork, venison, veal, 
but not of beef; the cutlets of beef are called entre¬ 
cotes , steaks and collops or scollops; cutlets of 
small meats, lobster, and such things are imitations 
of the shape of cutlets.— (See Cotelettes.) 

CUTTLE FISH—The octopus, or devil-fish. 

“ Next to whales, probably the most bulky animals 
in the sea are the gigantic cuttle-fishes, with which 
we have recently become acquainted. Of the largest 
of these the body would be quite equal to an ele¬ 
phant. They are not seen often enough to enter a 
list even of extraordinary foods; but smaller cuttle¬ 
fishes are beloved of many men, especially by Itali¬ 
ans; and in the sea-shore markets near Naples yon 
may find tubs full of writhing octopods exposed for 
sale. When a purchaser arrives and makes a selec¬ 
tion the vender adroitly seizes the fish by the back 
of the neck, the arms twisting and extending in all 
directions. It is dropped into the scales, and if ap¬ 
proved of the salesman gives it a twist, almost turn¬ 
ing it inside out, killing or disabling it in a moment. 
To see a mess of chopped full-grown octopus served 
with tomato sauce is really trying. When very small 
the octopus is used as a garnish for fish, and w hen 
fried crisp it might be mistaken for macaroni. Neapo- 
litans come properly by their taste for the cuttle, since 


DAR 

the Latins ate it, and have handed down a recipe for 
a cephalopod sausage. Pickled, you may find cut¬ 
tle-fish arms, suckers and all, among our fancy gro¬ 
ceries; and in San Francisco you may buy tons of 
preserved cuttles. These are a Chinese preparation 
of the squid. It is split open, cleaned, spread out 
flat, and dried and then resembles a Cape Ann cod¬ 
fish slitted into shreds at the broad end. Boiled and 
mixed with seasoned herbs, a popular soup or por¬ 
ridge results, the taste of which is mildly that of 
lobster broth.” 

CYGNET—Young swan. (See Swan.) 

CYMLING—Summer squash. 

D. 

DAB—A small flat fish found near the mouths of 
rivers; good to fry or broil. 

DAIM (Fr.)—Deer; fallow deer. Cotelettes 
de Daim —Venison cutlets. Cuissot de Daim— 
Leg of venison. 

DAMSON—A black plum of high flavor; much 
esteemed for cooking purposes. Name from Da¬ 
mascus, whence it came. Formerly called the Da¬ 
mascene plum. A very similar plum grows wild 
in some parts of the southern states. Damson 
Cheese —Pulp of steamed damsons passed through 
a seive, y 2 lb. sugar to each quart of pulp, dried 
down by slow boiling and stirring till it makes 
damson butter stiff enough to be cut in pieces when 
cold. Served for dessert, and to be dissolved for 
tarts and cakes as wanted. Pain de Prunes de 
Damas —A mould of damson cheese, or of marma¬ 
lade diluted and set with gelatine. 

DAMP CELLARS—If the air of the cellar be 
damp, it can be thoroughly dried by placing in it a 
peck of fresh lime in an open box. A peck of lime 
will absorb 7 lbs., or more than 3 qt. of water, and 
in this way a cellar or store-room may soon be dried. 

DANDELION — The well-known plant with 
yellow flowers which change to thistle-down. The 
leaves gathered young are among the best of early 
greens; cooked the same as spinach, with a pinch of 
soda in the water, drained, chopped and seasoned. 
Dandelion Salad —The young ieaves are eaten in 
salad in place of endive or lettuce. Dandelion 
Wine —A simple sort of domestic wine made of the 
petals of the dandelion flower and sugar. Dande¬ 
lion Coffee —The root has been mixed with coffee 
during the past 25 years, and sold as “dandelion 
coffee,” a hygienic beverage. 

DANTZIC GOLD JELLY—Jelly having gold 
leaf carefully mixed in it to make it sparkle; flavored 
with gold-rvasser. 

DARIOLE MOULDS—Tin or copper moulds of 
about the size and shape of a common small glass 
tumbler. They are either plain or fluted, with or 
without a pattern stamped in the bottom. The name 
is rarely used in this country, but the moulds are in 
use everywhere as charlotte russe moulds of indi- 












THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


303 


DAR 

vidual size, and are used for small steamed pud¬ 
dings and for blanc mange and jelly. 

DARIOLES— Almost anything that is made 
shaped, steamed, baked or moulded in a dariole 
mould is called a dariole. Deep patties of a pastry 
crust filled with some kind of custard or stiff cream, 
flavored either with vanilla or chocolate seems to 
have been the original sort of dariole, which is not 
as rich as a cheese cake, but nearly the same thing. 

DARNE (Fr.)—A thick cut of salmon or stur¬ 
geon. Darne d’Esturgeon au Four— A thick 
slice of sturgeon baked. 

DATE—Fruit of the date palm. Date Pie— 
Made like squash pie; i qt. milk, 2 lb. dates, 3 eggs; 
the dates boiled in the milk and rubbed through 
strainer. Dates for Dessert —The stone removed 
and a blanched almond put in its place. Date 
Cream —Sugared dates; a candy bon-bon. 

DAUPHINES—Tartlets; patty pans lined with 
paste, preserve or jam first; custard on top; baked 
and then meringued like a lemon pie. 

DECORATION—“A few days ago I saw a 
beautiful exception, which combined simplicity 
with grace and artistic effect: it was a ham glazed 
in the usual manner, but decorated only with a large 
spray of imitation lilies of the valley; -the stems 
and the leaves were cut from cucumber-peel, and 
the little flowers simulated by cutting thin slices of 
boiled white of egg to shape. It will be easily 
understood that the thinly cut cucumber-peel lends 
itself very kindly to the subject; the bright green 
color, the fine stems bowed with the weight of the 
flowers, and the leaves raised and twisted into nat¬ 
ural positions, would satisfy a culinary Oscar 
Wilde. The idea can be easily extended: with the 
yolk and the white of an egg, beat together and 
steamed into an extra firm a la royale custard, prim¬ 
roses can be imitated. Fuchsias can be done easily 
by cutting them from long radishes, and lemon-peel 
might be persuaded to turn itself into a flower of 
fancy; in all cases, the stems and leaves appropri¬ 
ately cut in cucumber-peel.” 

DELMONICO PUDDING—A corn-starch me¬ 
ringue, made of 1 qt. milk, 4 oz. starch, 4 oz. sugar, 
5 yolks, 1 oz. butter, little salt; made up same as a 
lightly cooked custard; poured in baking dish; mar¬ 
malade spread over; meringued with the whites; 
baked. 

DEMI-GLACE SAUCE—The brown coating of 
the pan, which is the gravy-drippings from baked 
meat, freed from the grease, dissolved with broth, 
thickened transparently with starch and strained. 
It is the meat gravy served with it; becomes a clear 
brown by slow boiling. 

DEVIL-FISH —{See cuttle-fish.') “The devil-fish 
is said to be rapidly multiplying in the waters of 
San Francisco bay. One of the fearful creatures | 
was exhibited in the San Francisco markets a feAV | 
days ago and attracted many visitors. The fish was 1 
about 9 feet in length and presented a most repulsive 


DIA 

sight. Notwithstanding the latter fact, one of the 
tentacles was sold to an Italian for food before the 
monster had been 011 exhibition over an hour. The 
sons of Italy prize the tentacles most highly, the or¬ 
dinary mode of eating them being to fry them or boil 
them in oil.” 

DEVILLED MEATS—Broiled or grilled meats 
variously sauced. Devilled Kidneys — Broiled 
kidneys with salt and cayenne. Devilled Ham — 
Broiled slices of ham with a sauce of mustard, pep¬ 
per and chopped pickles. Devilled Bones —Spare- 
ribs or chops with Robert sauce. Devilled Lob¬ 
ster —Lobster split lengthwise and broiled in the 
shell; served with devil sauce. A Dry Devil —Leg 
of turkey or any kind of meat peppered and salted, 
coated over with made mustard, and broiled. A 
Wet Devil— Leg of roast turkey, with cuts in it, 
seasoned with mustard, pepper and salt; broiled; 
served with devil sauce. 

DEVILLED OYSTERS-Philadelphia specialty. 
Same plan as devilled crabs; the oysters chopped 
small, drained, put into thick butter sauce with 
yolks and parsley, salt, cayenne; baked in oyster- 
shells with bread-crumbs on top. 

DEVIL SAUCE — (/)-Made of 3 tablespoons 
each butter and meat gravy; large teaspoon each 
cayenne and sugar; 1 glass each mushroom catsup 
and white wine; juice of 1 lemon; made warm. 
(a)-Butter, gravy, Harvey’s sauce, catsup, Chili 
vinegar, mustard, glass of port, juice 1 lemon, cay¬ 
enne, black pepper, salt. (j)-Chopped shallots fried 
in butter, 2 ladles espagnole, 1 of broth, 2 table¬ 
spoons made mustard, Worcestershire and cayenne; 
strained. 

DEVONSHIRE JUNKET — Devonshire, the 
home of the Devon breed of cattle, is famous for 
dairy products and for clotted cream. The “junket” 
is curd and cream: 1 qt. milk, 1 tablespoon sugar, 
vanilla to flavor, a little rennet or rennet powder 
added, poured into a glass dish, where in a warm 
place in about 20 minutes it becomes sweet curd. 
Then a thin layer of clotted cream is spread over it. 
Eaten with strawberry jam. 

DEVONSHIRE SQUAB PIE—A pie made of 
mutton chops and sliced apples in alternate layers, 
the apples on bottom first with sugar and spice, 
meat on them with salt and pepper; little water, a 
top crust of paste, baked hours. (See squab.) 

DEVONSHIRE CAKE—A yeast-raised cake; 
made up with cream, currants, citron, sugar, saffron, 
baked like bread in tins. 

DEWBERRY—A variety of blackberry which 
grows prostrate upon the ground; ripens early, well 
flavored, superior pie fruit. 

DEXTRINE—British gum, obtained by boiling 
starch, which changes with heat into gum. Used 
for making various kinds of gum drops, fig pastes, 
‘‘Turkish delight,” etc. 

DIABLOTINS AU GRUYERE— Paste made 






304 


TIIE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


DIA 

like cheese straws with eggs added, formed in little 
balls, floured, fried. 

DIABLE SAUCE—Devil sauce. 

DINDON (Fr.)—Turkey. Dinde— Hen turkey. 
Dindonneau —Young turkey. Dindonneau a la 
Duchesse —Young turkey roasted, served with a 
ragout of pieces of tongue, quenelles, green beans 
and cucumber. Dindon Truffe —Breast of chick¬ 
en, goose liver, bacon and truffles are chopped, 
seasoned with salt, pepper, and a bay leaf, simmered 
in stock; 2 doz. whole truffles added, stewed half an 
hour, with constant stirring. Turkey stuffed with 
it, sewed up, hung 4 days, covered with slices of ba¬ 
con and buttered paper and roasted. Truffles in the 
sauce. 

DIPLOMATfC PUDDING—(/)-A creme in a 
decorated casing of jelly, made of a yolk-of-egg 
custard with sugar, gelatine and cream mixed in, 
flavored with brandy and vanilla. A plain mould 
is coated with wine jelly by turning it about in ice, 
decorated with candied fruit, the custard creme 
poured in; solidified on ice, turned out on a ‘folded 
napkin. (?)-A creme without jelly casing made of 
a yolk-of-egg custard with gelatine, sugar and 
cream; a mould in ice decorated with fruit dipped in 
jelly; a layer of creme poured in; on top of that a 
layer of sliced sponge cake dipped in maraschino, 
then candied fruits, then cream etc. Set solid on ice. 

DIPLOMATE SAUCE—(/)-Another name for 
cardinal sauce, made of Bechamel sauce with lob¬ 
ster coral or lobster butter reddened, anchovy es¬ 
sence, cayenne bits of butter, all well whisked, 
served with fish, hot. (^)—It is Bechamel sauce 
flavored with crayfish and crayfish butter. 

DIP SAUCE—Sweet diplomate; a pink sugar - 
and-starch sauce, thick, clear; any flavor. 

DOG-FISH—“Dog-fish is not bad, salted. It is 
sometimes called ‘Folkestonte beef,” and is much 
eaten in Lancashire.” 

DOMBEY PUDDING—Delicate sort of plum 
pudding, steamed or baked; made of y 2 pt. cream, 
4 oz. sugar, rind of 1 lemon, made hot in saucepan 
and 6 tablespoons bread-crumbs, 1 spoon flour, 3 of 
suet, 1 marrow. Boiled and stirred to paste, then 
mixed with 2 oz. each of currants, candied orange 
peel, sultana raisins, 4 eggs, little nutmeg, 1 glass 
each wine and rum; served with orange sauce con¬ 
taining rum. 

DORY—A fish. (See 'Joint Dory.) 

DOUCETTE (Fr.)—Corn salad; a kind of cress. 

DOUGHNUTS—Fried cakes; pieces of sweet¬ 
ened bread dough in ring or twisted shapes allowed 
to rise, then dropped in hot lard and fried light 
brown. Baking Powder Doughnuts—i qt. flour, 

1 small cup sugar, lard size of an egg, 2 tablespoons 
baking powder, 2 cups water or milk. Rolled out, 
cut in shapes, fried, sugared over when done. 

DOUGH-MIXERS—There are machines made 


DRI 

to do the heavy work of mixing dough in large 
quantities. 

DOUGH TROUGH— A long wooden box about 
iS inches deep and raised 6 inches fiom the floor, 
made with flaring sides and a moveable partition. 
Used by all bread makers and needed in all hotels 
to mix up bread dough in. The lid should be in 
two halves, not hinged, but removable that half 
may be used at once as a table. 

DOUGH-RAISERS—Various contrivances, the 
subject of many patents, for keeping bread-dough 
at as nearly as possible a temperature of So degrees 
while rising, that the fermentation may be perfect; 
especially needed in cold weather. Where houses 
are steam-heated a closet is made fortius purpose. 
A home-made contrivance is a barrel with a pail of 
hot water set in it, the pan of dough set in the bar¬ 
rel above it, and a blanket over all. 

DOVER BISCUITS—Made of 6 oz. each sugar 
and butter, 2 eggs, 12 oz. flour. Like cookies. 

DRAWN BUTTER—English name for butter 
sauce; made by stirring equal measures of butter and 
flour together over the fire, adding boiling water 
sufficient, and beating in more butter at last. 

DRESDEN PATTIES — Croustades made like 
patties, the inside of the rounds of fried bread to be 
removed and a filling of any kind put in. 

DRINKS—Stewards and caterers have to provide 
for parties: Ale Cup —Made of 2 qts. ale, 1 pt. gin, 
3 oz. brown sugar, 3 yolks, ground ginger, cinna 
mon, nutmeg, yolks, etc.; beaten; hot ale poured in. 
Mulled Claret —Two bottles claret, 4 oz. sugar, 
rind 2 lemons, 6 cloves, 4 inches cinnamon, 1 glass 
brandy; spices and sugar boiled in littie water; claret 
added and made hot; brandy in at last. Tom and 
Jerry- —Five pounds sugar, 12 eggs, 1% teaspoons 
ground cinnamon, y teaspoon each cloves and all¬ 
spice, y 2 glass rum; eggs separated and beaten, 
mixed again; rum, spice and sugar added; served by 
taking 1 tablespoon of the mixture, adding 1 wine¬ 
glass of brandy, and filling up the glass with boiling 
water. Fanny’s Delight —Four ounces sugar in 

1 pt. boiling water, with 4 cloves, % oz. cinnamon 
and oz. ginger; strained; added to 2 3'olks; beaten 
up, and 1 glass raisin-wine, 1 glass ginger-wine 
added. Egg Flip— Four eggs, with 2 of the whites 
omitted, beaten up with 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 pint 
boiling water added by slow degrees, 2 wine-glasses 
brandy, 1 wine-glass rum. Wassail Bowl —One 
quart hot ale; nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon, y oz. each; 
y bottle sherry, 2 slices toast, 2 roasted apples, 1 
lemon; sugar to taste. Gabe Case Punch— Three 
bitter Seville oranges, roasted to a pale brown color, 
laid in a heated vessel, 1 lb. sugar pressed with them, 

2 bottles warm Burgundy, 1 pint hot water. . Lang¬ 
try Punch—O ne orange stuck full of cloves and 
roasted before the fire, cut in quarters, 1 quart hot 
port wine poured over it, sugar to taste; simmered 
half an hour. A Reviver—T wo yolks in a goblet, 
with 1 oz. honey, little essence of cloves, liqueur- 









THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


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glass of Curasao, i pt. hot Burgundy; whisked to¬ 
gether; served hot in glasses. Cold Milk Punch— 
Half pint tumbler filled with chipped ice, i teaspoon 
sugar, i wine-glass brandy, i liqueur-glass rum; 
filled up with milk; shaken; straws. Mint Julep— 
La rge glass, i teaspoon sugar, little water, 3 sprigs 
mint; all pressed together; mint taken out, y 2 wine¬ 
glass brandy, y 2 liqueur-glass rum, ditto yellow 
chartreuse; filled up with ice; shaken; then topped 
with fruit and mint, dash of claret and sugar to fin¬ 
ish; straws. John Collins -Half pint tumbler 
filled with chipped ice, 1 teaspoon sugar, juice of y 2 
lemon, y 2 wine-glass gin; filled up with soda water; 
straws. Lemon Squash —Large glass filled with 
chipped ice, juice of 1 lemon, teaspoons sugar; 
filled up with soda; stirred; fruit on top, straws. 
Soda Cocktail —Large glass half filled with ice, y 2 
teaspoon Angostura, y 2 teaspoon sugar; filled up 
with soda; lemon-peel on top; straws. Claret 
Punch —Half pint tumbler filled with chipped ice, 
juice of y 2 lemon, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 teaspoon 
raspberry syrup, claret to fill up; shaken; ripe fruit 
on top; straws. Gin Sling —Half pint tumbler 
filled with ice, 1 lemon-glass plain syrup; juice of 
y 2 lemon, y 2 glass gin; filled up with soda; slices 
lemon and orange on top; straws. Gin Cocktail— 
Tumbler filled with chipped ice, few drops Angos¬ 
tura and plain syrup, y 2 wine-glass gin; stirred 
well; slrained off into cocktail glass; piece lemon on 
top. Gin Sour —Tumbler filled with ice, y 2 tea¬ 
spoon sugar, 1 teaspoon raspberry syrup, juice y 2 
lemon, y 2 wine-glass gin; strained into cocktail 
glass, lemon-slice on top. Egg Nogg Iced —Tum¬ 
bler filled with chipped ice, 1 raw egg, 1 teaspoon 
sugar, 1 liqueur-glass brandy, 1 do. rum; shaken 
well; strained off into pony tumbler; nutmeg on top. 
Sam Ward— Tumbler filled with chipped ice, 3 or 4 
drops Angostura, 1 liqueur-glass green chartreuse; 
shaken well; strained into cocktail glass. Corpse 
Reviver — A long, thin liqueur-glass ^filled with 
equal portions noyeau, maraschino and yellow 
chartreuse, one on top of the other without mixing 
them; to be taken off at one draught. Prairie 
Oyster — A wine-glass with y 2 teaspoon vin¬ 
egar, 1 new-laid egg, little salt, pepper and dash 
of Worcestershire sauce; to be drunk off raw.— 
Gin Punch— “At the Garrick Club they serve an 
excellent gin punch, which, according to Mr. Percy 
Fitzgerald, is ‘brewed’ as follows: Pour half a pint 
of gin on the outer peel of a lemon, then a little 
lemon juice, sugar, a glass of maraschino, about a 
pint and a quarter of water, and two bottles of iced 
soda-water; this makes three pints.” Absinthe— 
The proper way to serve absinthe au sucre is thus: 
Put two lumps of sugar in a strainer which just fits 
the top of the glass, and let the absinthe trickle 
slowly through; the water is added afterwards. 
Tiger’s Milk —An East Indian morning draught, 
not generally known. Add the beaten yolks of 3 
eggs to 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered w'hite sugar, 
3 cloves, the rind of l / 2 lemon, and x / 2 pt. of Impe- 


DRI 

rial Crown brandy; pour over it 1 qt. of new, warm 
milk, stirring rapidly, and serve immediately. This 
is recommended tor those who live in malarial dis¬ 
tricts, and for delicate persons before breathing the 
crisp air of autumn or winter. A wineglassful 
will be sufficient in this climate. Sauterne Cup— 

1 bottle sauterne, 2 sliced peaches, 1 liqueur glass 
noyeau, juice of 1 lemon, ice, leaves of balm and 
borage, 1 bottle soda-water. Burgundy Cup— 

2 bottles red Burgundy, 1 pt. port, 1 gill cherry 
brandy, juice of 2 oranges and 1 lemon, a slice of 
cucumber, sprig of verbena, sugar, ice, 3 bottles 
seltzer-water. Champagne Cup— i bottle cham¬ 
pagne, 1 liqueur glass Curasao, same of pale brandy, 
sprig of verbena, slice of cucumber, ice, 2 bottles 
soda. Claret Cup-(2) 1 bottle claret, 1 pt. sherry, 
1 gill port, do. cherry brandy, 1 lemon, sugar, cu¬ 
cumber thin slice, verbena, ice, 3 bottles seltzer 
water. (2)-One bottle light claret, 1 glass brandy, 1 
lemon peeled thin, y pt. water, sugar, sprig of bor¬ 
age, some slices of cucumber; in jug well iced. 
Brandy Champerelle- One wine-glass each Cu¬ 
rasao, brandy and bitters, with shaved ice. Port 
Negus —One bottle port, peel of 1 lemon, 2 crushed 
cloves, grated nutmeg, sugar to taste, 1 qt. boiling 
water. Champagne Cocktail —A large lemonade 
glass half filled with shaved ice, 2 drops each orange, 
lemon and gentian essences; 1 tablespoon each or¬ 
ange-flower water and syrup; well shaken; 1 glass 
champagne added. Jersey Cocktail —Large glass 
with ice, essences, syrup and champagne cider. 
Bridal Boquet Cup —Two quarts thin, clear syrup, 
y 2 pt. orange-flower water, 1 pt. lime juice, 1 table- 

'spoon noyeau; served y 2 glass of this mixture with 
iced soda and y 2 glass champagne. Liqueur Eus- 
tache —Large glass half filled with ice, 2 table¬ 
spoons syrup, rind of a lemon tied in a knot, juice of 
y 2 lemon, 1 liqueur-glass cognac, l / 2 glass absinthe; 
filled up with soda; stirred. British Lion —A 
liqueur-glass Scotch whisky, 1 tablespoon each 
cherry-syrup, lime juice and bay rum, peel of y 
lemon in glass filled up with boiling water. Cin¬ 
derella Cup —One bottle raisin or angelica wine, 
y pt. strong syrup mixed in a bowl, 1 qt. lemonade, 
ice, sprigs of scented verbena. Liqueur Supreme- 
y pt. each maraschino, kirschwasser and Curasao, 
x / 2 pt.-strong syrup, 1 bottle brandy, or champagne. 
Cask Gingerade —In a 10-gal. keg: 9 gal. syrup 1 
pt. essence ginger, y 2 pt. essence lemon, 1 oz. yeast, 
1 oz. isinglass; bunged up with cotton 3 days; then 
corked tight, or bottled and wired. Jersey Lily 
JuLEP-Large lemonade-glass half filled with shaved 
ice, 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 wine-glass cognac, 1 glass 
champagne, sprays of jessamine or orange flowers, 
nutmeg, dust of sugar on top. Rose Nectar 
Julep —Lemonade-glass with ice, y 2 glass each rose 
nectar and cognac; 1 spoon sugar, 4 slices lemon, 
red rose buds dusted with sugar, rim of glass rubbed 
with lemon; straws. Christmas JuLEP-Large lem¬ 
onade tumbler, the rim wet with whisky and dipped 
in powdered sugar to frost it; l / 2 filled with ice, i 









306 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


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tablespoon sugar, i spoon maraschino, i y 2 wine¬ 
glass whisky, piece lemon-rind, x / 2 pt. milk; stirred; 
bay leaf dusted with sugar set in; straws. Moselle 
Cup a la Prince de Galle —A punch-bowl made 
ice-cold; i pt. rye whisky, i bottle pale sherry, 2 
drops ambergris, 1 drop musk-essence, 2 tablespoons 
grated pineapple, spray of verbena; all set on ice for 
2 hours; then added 2 bottles sparkling Moselle. 
Punch a la Sandringham —One pint new-made 
green tea, 4 oz. sugar, 2 tablespoons port-wine jelly 
dissolved in the hot tea, 1 lemon sliced in, 1 bottle 
whisky, 1 glass brandy, 3 drops ambergris. Ypo- 
cras — “ ‘To make ypocras hit were gret lernynge.’ 
The ‘ypocras ’ would not be acceptable to a gener¬ 
ation which likes the Curasao dry. Red wine was 
the foundation of this drink, and to it there were 
added ginger, cinnamon, spices of various kinds, 
sugar-candy and other condiments, according to 
whether the drink was being brewed for those of 
high degree or for common people. The butler is 
to taste it constantly, ‘alleway,’ the writer declares, 
and if the result be not perfect, ginger, cinnamon or 
sugar is to be added until it is all that it should be.” 
Brandy Punch— One-half pint water with y A lb. 
sugar, peel of 2 lemons, little cinnamon, nutmeg, 
mace, cloves; all simmered, strained, and 1 bottle 
brandy, juice of 2 lemons, very hot; set on fire in 
bowl, and served burning. Philadelphia Cooler- 
“The latest drink, and the one that is all the rage 
in Saratoga, is the ‘Philadelphia cooler.’ It was 
first made by bartender A. D. Ivibbe, who has mixed 
beverages at the United States for fourteen years; 
but it can be got at either of the three other first- 
class bars. As it is made of champagne, and costs 
something like a dollar a drink, it fitly represents 
the two main characteristics of the season—cham¬ 
pagne drinking and extravagant pleasures. There 
never was so much money on tap at Saratoga as at 
present, and the interest taken in champagne by the 
drinkers is phenomenal. With the King of the 
Dudes backing one brand, Monsieur Lippa treating 
to another, and a private individual rushing his 
favorite simply because he believes it better than 
any other and does not want the fact overlooked, 
there has been enough wine drank to float a ship. 
The drink called the ‘cooler’ is prepared by half- 
filling two big glasses with cracked ice, putting in a 
little mint and two lumps of sugar, pour half a pint 
of champagne on top, and squeezing the mint with 
a crusher or mixer until its essence pervades the 
champagne. After a night spent in drinking coolers 
the average dude can find his wa}' to bed—if one of 
the porters steers him correctly.” Champagne 
Cup (Saratoga)—One bottle champagne, 1 qt.-bottle 
German seltzer-water, 2 oranges sliced, sprigs of 
balm and borage, 1 oz. sugar; in a covered jug im¬ 
bedded in ice for 1 hour; then strained into decanter. 
Cider Cup-One quart cider, 1 liqueur-glass brandy, 

1 pt. seltzer-water, 1 oz. sugar, sprigs of balm and 
borage; set in ice for an hour; decanted. “Elec- I 
TRicAL Cocktail— Is the latest American drink. [ 


DRI 

According to Electrical Review , a flexible lead from 
the electrolier ends in a platinum curl. A trifle of 
sugar is added to the fluid, the platinum curl lowered 
into it, and the current turned on to make the curl 
red-hot. A small amount of the alcohol and sugar 
is carbonized, and the resulting burned-sugar flavor 
is said to be very delicate. It promises to be a fash¬ 
ionable winter-beverage, and can be made cold or 
hot.” “Idlewild Toddy —Is composed of half a 
lemon, half an orange, sugar, chopped ice, whisky, 
and just a dash of Santa Cruz rum. It is flavored 
with Benedictine cordial; then shaken and served in 
ice.” Fruit Pyramid —Half a lemon, 1 tablespoon 
each of lime juice and pineapple juice; 4 oz. sugar, 
(no liquors), ice; filled up with rich milk; shaken. 
The Stein way— Sugar, whisky, ice and Apollinaris 
water. The Daisy —Five drops Angostura bitters, 
lump of sugar rubbed on a lemon, 1 liqueur-glass 
port wine to dissolve sugar, shaved ice; filled up 
with ginger ale; shaken. The MAiTRANK-German 
sjiecialty. A good-sized bunch of woodruff leaves 
in a bowl, with a bottle of still hock steeped an hour, 
2 or 3 oranges sliced in, 1 liqueur-glass each char¬ 
treuse, maraschino and Curasao, 1 bottle sparkling 
wine, sugar to taste; served as a cold punch. “The 
Prince oe - WALES-Having invented the long drink 
called ‘lemon squash,’ has now added to his laurels 
by inventing a ‘short drink;’ consisting of rye 
whisky, powdered sugar, ice, a small piece of pine¬ 
apple, some Angostura bitters, a little lemon-peel, a 
few drops of maraschino and a splutter of cham¬ 
pagne.” “Egg-Lemonade — Is a new beverage 
that barkeepers find it pay to include in their drink- 
list: Put into a pint-tumbler a teaSpoonful of pow¬ 
dered sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, a little water and 
1 egg; fill up with finely broken ice; then shake rap¬ 
idly and briskly in a cobbler glass. It may be im¬ 
bibed through straws.” Milk Shake —Shaved ice, 
sugar, milk; any flavoring as desired; well shaken 
to make foam. Charlie Paul— Half-pint tumbler 
filled with shaved ice, 1 tablespoon raspberry syrup, 

1 liqueur-glasss brandy; filled up with new milk; 
shaken; straws. Milk Punch —Tumbler with ice, 

1 teaspoon sugar, 1 wine-glass brandy, 1 liqueur- 
glass rum; filled up with new milk; shaken; nutmeg 
on top; straws. Washington PuNcu-Large glass 
of shaved ice, 1 teaspoon sugar, y 2 liqueur-glass no- 
yeau, y 2 wine-glass brandy; filled up with new milk; 
shaken; powdered sugar on top; straws. Royal 
Aquarium Milk-Punch- Six eggs, the yolks beaten 
with 8 oz. sugar; the whites whipped and then mixed 
in with 1 wine-glass Curasao, 1 bottle brandy, 1 bot¬ 
tle rum, 2 qts. new milk, 3 bottles soda; well mixed; 
enough for 25. Athenaeum Claret Cup —“The 
following recipe for claret-cup is the one adopted at 
the Athenaum Club: The rind of half a lemon, y 
pint hot water poured on two ounces of sugar and 4 
sprigs of borage; let it cool; add a bottle of good 
claret and 1 bottle of soda-water; put in y 2 lb. of ice 
and ftir thoroughly, withdraw borage and serve. It 
will be observed that brandy or other liqueur is stu- 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


307 


DRU 

diously excluded.” Hot Punch-Foui ounces loaf- 
sugar rubbed on a large lemon, juice of the lemon 
squeezed to the sugar in a bowl, i pint boiling water, 
added, y 2 pt. each rum and brandy, y 2 teaspoon 
grated nutmeg. Beer Cup— One quart porter or 
bottled beer, i teaspoon moist sugar, i slice toast, 
nutmeg, ginger; steeped together y 2 hour. Pousse 
l’ Amour — One-half glass maraschino in a wine 
glass, i yolk on top, y glass vanilla cordial next, y 
glass brandy on top; not mixed or broken. Pousse 
Cafe —Five drops raspberry syrup in a wine-glass, 
y glass each of maraschino, Curasao, chartreuse 
and brandy; the five colors not to be mixed or broken 
till drank. Champerelle— One-third each brandy, 
maraschino, Angostura; in strata; not mixed. 
Brand Scaffa —One quarter each of raspberry 
syrup, maraschino, green chartreuse and brandy; 
in strata; not mixed. Golden Slipper —Half 
wine-glass of yellow chartreuse, i yolk, y 2 
wine-glass Danziger goldwasser; not mixed, nor 
broken. Sherry Flip —Glass half-filled with ice, 

1 teaspoon sugar, i egg, \y 2 glasses sherry; 
shaken; nutmeg on top. Sherry Cobbler— 
A tumbler of shaved ice, i tablespoon sugar, piece 
of lemon peel, essence of cloves, i tablespoon port, 

2 glasses pale sherry; shaken, pineapple and orange 
slices and mint added; straws. Hari-Kari —Glass 
half filled with ice, i teaspoon sugar, lemon juice, 
i wine-glass whisky, filled with vichy water, fruits 
of the season on top. Whisky Crust a — i table¬ 
spoon gum syrup, 4 drops Angostura, juice of x / 2 
lemon, y 2 liqueur glass maraschino, % glass whisky, 
y glass shaved ice, mixed, poured into glass, the 
edge frosted with sugar. Archbishop —Tumbler 
with shaved ice, 1 tablespoon sugar, juice of y 
lemon and x / 2 orange, l / 2 liqueur glass rum, filled up 
with Burgundy, stirred; straws. {See hot b ezvs, 
■zviues, spirits .) 

DRUM FISH—Southern sea fish; like the black 
grouper, weight from 1 to S or 10 pounds; so named 
because shoals of them butt against vessels, wooden 
piers, etc., making a drumming noise. 

DRY BREAD—Pieces thoroughly dried, crushed 
and sifted form the bread-crumbs used for bread¬ 
ing and frying. 

DUCHESS CRUSTS-Small cubes of bread fried 
brown, served with soup. 

DUCHESS LOAVES—Ancient name of cream 
puffs. 

DUCHESS POTATOES—Potato mashed with 
yolk of egg and salt, made into flat ornamental 
shapes, egged over, baked; to serve with fish and 
for garnish. 

DUCK— Toulouse Duck —“As every restaurant 
of any note in Paris, so does every town in France, 
pique itself on some particular dish. So it is that the 
citizens of the different towns temporarily located in 
Paris meet together on fixed and solemn occasions to 
partake of the dish of their town. Now ask a Tou- 
lousian what, next to the cholera, his home is cele- 


DUC 

brated for, and he will answer you, probably, as he 
answered me, ‘Canard a la mode de Toulouse.’ Do 
you want to know how to make it? Take a young 
duck, bone it; now take half a pound of calf’s liver, 
minced, the duck’s liver and heart, a quarter of a 
pound of minced calf’s liver-fat, two handfuls of 
grated bread-crumbs, two eggs, some parsley 
minced up with a suggestion of garlic and a little 
onion, minced and fried in butter. Mince all these 
ingredients up together. Fill the duck up with this 
stuffing, sew it up, wrap it up in a napkin, tying 
the ends together, plunge it into its native element, 
boiling, and let it cook for an hour or an hour and a 
quarter, boiling hard all the time. When the water 
has run off (as it is proverbial it will do), serve it 
with a piquant sauce, and agree with me that Tou¬ 
louse was not built in vain.” Rouen Duck — 
When full grown will often surpass the Aylesbury 
in weight, but it does not come so early to perfec¬ 
tion, nor is its flesh so delicate as a duckling. But 
as an autumnal duck it has no fellow. When fully 
grown it should be hung till tender, and then dressed 
as a wild duck and served with port-wine sauce or 
with the bigarrade or Seville orange sauce. Saute 
de Caneton aux Morilles —The ducklings cut 
up as for a stew, the legs with 2 onions stewed 
gently, the breast pieces added and cooking con¬ 
tinued, some morel-mushrooms added, 1 ladle meat 
gravy and some glaze; the onions taken out and 
parsley and lemon added. Canard a la Puree 
Verte —Duck cut up and stewed in broth with 
little garlic, onions, thyme, basil, parsley, bay leaf, 
salt, pepper; pint of green peas boiled and passed 
through a seive, duck liquor also drained and added 
to the puree of peas, reduced or thickened with 
butter and starch, poured over the pieces of duck. 
Braised Duck —Ducks fried in a pan with lard un¬ 
til the outside is brown; taken up and flour stirred 
in the pan and broth or water to make thin gravy, 
vegetables, herbs and seasonings added, ducks put 
in and simmered in the gravy 2 hours. Savory 
Duck— Duck cut up, bacon and butter fried to¬ 
gether and flour added, broth to make thin gravy, 
onion, herbs and seasonings. Pieces of duck fried in 
butter separately, then put into the gravy and stewed 
an hour; gravy strained; served with peas. Ca¬ 
nard a l’Italienne —Stuffed with liver and bacon, 
mixed herbs, truffles cut into dice, all thickened 
with yolks, roasted, served with Italian sauce. 
Filleted Duck —A duck roasted y 2 hour, the meat 
cut from the breast in long, neat slices, laid in a 
bright saucepan with brown gravy, highly seasoned, 
and 1 glass port; simmered gently 15 minutes; served 
on a border of mashed potatoes, with peas in center 
and gravy over the duck. Stewed Duck and 
Turnips —Whole duck browned in butter, cut tur¬ 
nips fried in same butter; thin sauce made in the 
pan with herbs and seasonings, dnek simmered in 
till tender; served with the turnips around and gravy 
strained over. Ducklings with Tomato Sauce— 
Young ducks filled with bread stuffing, placed in a 







308 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


DUC 

baking pan with plenty of strained tomatoes, pep¬ 
per, salt, minced onion and butter, cooked quickly 
in oven hot enough to brown them; sauce rubbed 
through a seive, made hot again, served with the 
ducks. Stewed Ducks and Olives— The duck 
browned in butter, gravy made in the pan with 
herbs and seasonings, duck simmered in it till ten¬ 
der, gravy strained and stoned olives added. Salmi 
of Duck— Roast duck and giblet sauce; the duck 
cut up after roasting and simmered in the gravy 
with the giblets and a glass of wine and the juice 
of i lemon; garnished with croutons. Garnish 
for Duckling —The common vegetable garnish 
for duckling is green peas or sometimes cresses; 
but try also cooked endive or celery, turnips browned 
in butter, and almost any kind of salad. Roast 
Duck —“The great secret in cooking them success¬ 
fully lies in the basting, which should be very fre¬ 
quent and thorough. Fill the carcase with stuffing; 
secure the legs to the sides, so that the breast may 
plump up well; dredge it lightly with flour, and 
baste it continuously from the time it begins to cook. 
Just before it is done (a good-sized duck will take 
from three quarters of an hour to an hour) dredge it 
again lightly with flour, as it will then froth up and 
look plump; have a good brown gravy ready to serve 
with it, but do not pour it over the duck.” Canards 
Sauvages en Salmis —Wild ducks cut up in salmis 
sauce. Canards Sauvages a la Bigarade —Cut 
up in orange sauce. Filets de Canetons Sauva¬ 
ges a la Syrienne —Breasts of wild ducks with 
olives in brown sauce; served with alternate fried 
croutons , spread with a paste of the duck livers and 
butter. Sarcelles a la Puree de Ciiampignons- 
Teal cut in joints; braised; served with a puree of 
mushrooms. Turban de Filets de Sarcelles a 
la Toulouse —Breasts of teal in a circle with fumet 
of game sauce, pickled mushrooms, etc. Mallard 
Ducks a la Proven?ale —Stuffed, roasted; served 
with their own gravy and shallot sauce. Mallard 
Ducks a l’Americaine —The ducks roasted about 
35 minutes; carved; best pieces kept warm; sauce 
made of the carcases with herbs and seasonings; 
port wine and currant jelly added; poured over the 
pieces of ducks. Roast Duck, Apple Sauce— 
Tame ducks plain roasted; apple sauce served with 
them when carved. Duck Pie —Cold raised pie, 
made by lining a raised-pie case or mould with short 
paste, filled with sausage meat and boned ducks; 
baked 2 hours. Duck in Jelly— Jelly made of 
calves’ feet, boned ducks simmered in it until ten¬ 
der; made up in decorated mould lined with jelly 
and filled in with duck and jelly; cold like a galan¬ 
tine. Red-Head Duck —Cooked like Canvas-back , 
which see. “ Should you wish to eat a wild duck in 
perfection, proceed in the following manner: Hav¬ 
ing roasted the bird for about twenty-five minutes 
before a brisk fire, let it be sent to table with a rich 
gravy. A spirit-lamp supporting a deep silver dish 
should be placed before the carver. Pour in this dish 
three glasses of port wine, a good pinch of cayenne 


EEL 

pepper, a sprinkle of salt, the juice of a lemon, ancf 
some of the gravy. The duck having been carved, 
the pieces are rolled in the boiling preparation and 
handed around in the hot dish to the guests.” 

DUMPLINGS—Balls of flour-dough; sometimes 
having fruit inclosed; boiled or baked. Egg Dump¬ 
lings —Soft dough afe if for fritters dropped into 
boiling water or soup; to be eaten with meat or with, 
sweet sauce. German Dumplings— Dampfnudeln' 
pieces of light-bread dough dropped into boiling' 
water, or cooked by steaming; eaten with soup, meat 
stews, or with fruit sauce. Suet Dumplings —One 
pound flour, ^ lb. suet, salt; mixed into soft dough, 
tied in a bag, or dropped in water; cooked 2 hours. 

DUNDEE CAKE—Good, plain fruit cake; made 
of 1 lb. each sugar, butter and eggs; lbs. flour* 

lb. each citron, sultanas and stoned raisins; 1 gill 
brandy. To be true to the name must be in shallow 
pans, with caraway comfits and sugar on the sur¬ 
face. 

D’UXELLES SAUCE—(/)-Made of 1 pt. veloute, 
glass of white wine, and beef extract; mushrooms, 
red tongue find parsley chopped fine and mixed in. 
(2)-White sauce with chopped ham, mushrooms, 
parsley, etc.; used in a thick state for coating cutlets, 
etc., before breading them to fry. D’Uxelles was 
the name of a French general. 

E. 

EAU (Fr.)—Water. Eau de Vie— Brandy. 

Glace Eau de Fraises— Strawberry water ice. 

EAU DE BARBADES—We had intended to 
give Martin’s views on wines, (i/ 39 ) including that 
of Nuitz, “for the health,” and that of Hai, as the 
best in Champagne; whence also cameaTokai, and 
a wonderful Bon-chretien pear. Liqueurs, too, 
would claim a few words, were it only to wonder 
whether Eau de Barbades could be anything else 
but Jamaica rum; Esquibar was clearly usquebaugh ; 
and eau-de-vie d’lrlande smells of potheen a mile off. 

ECARLATE (Fr.)—Scarlet, with red tongue, or 
corned beef. 

ECHINEE (Fr)—Chine. Echinee de Porc 

Rotie —Roast chine of pork. 

ECCLES CAKES—Baker’s shop pastry; rounds- 
of puff short paste containing a filling of currants 
and brown sugar, flavored; sugar on top. 

ECOSSAISE (a 1 ’)—In Scottish style. 

EELS—Found in sluggish streams and mill 
ponds; plentiful in countries where the farms are di¬ 
vided by dykes or ditches and where ponds aboundJ 
but not in general use in this country. Linlith¬ 
gow Eels —The celebrated “Linlithgow” recipe for 
cooking eels: Kill, clean, and rub them well with 
salt, slit them up belly-way, and remove the bone. 
Next, wash well and dry, then cut into 4-inch 
lengths; dredge well with flour. Dip the pieces in 
a thickish batter made of melted butter and yolk of 
egg, seasoned to taste with salt, cayenne, and a 









THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


309 


EEL 

mince of parsley, sage and shallot. Roll in bread¬ 
crumbs twice over, then broil on a clear but slow 
tire till well done. Serve with either melted butter 
or anchovy sauce. SkinnincEels —The great cul¬ 
inary artist, Ude, gives the following directions for 
the skinning of eels: “Take some live ones, throw 
them into the fire, and, as they are twisting and 
turning about on all sides, lay hold of them with a 
towel in your hand, and skin them.” That mode 
certainly appears to us singularly cruel. Dr. Kitch¬ 
ener endeavored to have eels killed in as humane a 
manner as possible. “With a sharp-pointed skew¬ 
er,” he says, “pierce the spinal marrow through the 
back part of the skull; life will instantly cease.” 
Another cook says: “ Dip all over for an instant in 

boiling water; then skin.” Another says: “Stun 
them with a blow upon the head, cut an incision 
around the neck, catch the edge of the skin, holding 
by a cloth, and pull it off.” Spitciicocked Eels— 
Large eels split, bone taken out, cut in lengths, 
seasoned, breaded, fried, sauce, or butter and lemon. 
Stewed Eels —For ordinary tables they are not 
skinned. “The present consumption of eels in Lon¬ 
don aggregate about 1,650 tons a year, value £130,- 
000. It is estimated that some 24,000 regular custom¬ 
ers contract for their supplies of this fish, and sell 
them again retail. The London stewed eel trade is 
in fact a considerable one, and the enterprising, 
though for tfie most part humble, caterers engaged 
in it render essential service to the poorer classes by 
supplying at all hours and at very low figures this 
highly nutrious food in a cooked condition. Some 
of the large stewed eel vendors use a ton of fish 
weekly. The great bulk of the eels consumed in 
London, whether in the form of the aristocratic eel 
a la Tar tare, and a la Pouletle, or the more ple¬ 
beian eel soup and eel pies, comes either from the 
Fens or from Holland and Germany.” Anguilles 
a la Bkoche —Roasted eels. A large eel, the head 
left on, skinned, the back larded wilh small strips 
pork, steeped in seasoned marinade 3 hours, skew¬ 
ered into oval ring shape, roasted or baked, shallot 
sauce. Anguilles au Soleil —Cut in large pieces, 
fiist boiled in wine, water and vegetables, then 
breaded and fried. Anguilles en Ragout —Stewed 
and served in the sauce with wine. Anguilles a la 
Minute —In pieces, boiled in salted water, served 
with maitre d’ hotel sauce and potatoes. Anguilles 
a la Poulette —Cut in pieces, stewed with wine, 
broth, mushrooms, shallots, mace, salt, cayenne; 
liquor strained and made yellow with yolks; lemon 
juice added. Anguilles en Matelote —Stewed 
with oysters, onions, parsley, mushrooms etc. An¬ 
guilles a la Orly —Split, boned, cut in long pieces, 
dipped in batter, fried; with rings of dry-fried 
onions. Anguilles a l’ Ecossaise —In Scottish 
style; cut up ’and salted for an hour; washed, 
stewed in broth with vegetables and herbs; liquor 
strained, thickened with flour; squares of buttered 
toast to serve it on. Anguilles a l’ Anglaise— 
Thin buttered sauce made with herbs, little lemon 


EGG 

peel, salt; cut up eels stewed in it; parsley and 
lemon. Stewed Eels —Cut in lengths, stewed in 
water with salt and pepper, thickened with flour; 
chopped parsley added at serving. Eel Pie —Pieces 
rolled in flour which is seasoned, placed in a dish 
lined with paste, broth poured in; covered with top 
crust, baked an hour. Anguilles a la Tar- 
tare —Eels full length skewered and tied into ring- 
shape, parboiled in seasoned broth, taken up, double 
breaded, fried in wire basket, served with tartare 
sauce in center of the ring; garnished. Anguilles 
a la Cendre —Eels cooked in the coals. Cleaned, 
coiled up, seasoned, wrapped in buttered paper, 
covered with embers and ashes in the open fire-place; 
paper removed, served with butter and bread. Eel 
Soup— Made of eel partly fried in butter, with broth, 
wine, tomatoes, flour, etc.; eels and toast served in it. 
Eel a l’ Izaak Walton —In spite of the prejudice 
against eels, they make an excellent pie, and were 
for centuries thought fit for royal banquets and 
monastic tables. If eels went into monastic refec 
tories, they have a brevet for any other dining-room. 
Eels are equally good fried, stewed, or roasted. For 
a recipe tor the latter we refer our readers to 
Izaak Walton’s charming book; it is one he recom¬ 
mends by the strong statement, “that when he gets 
an eel dressed according to it, he wishes it were as 
long and as big as the eel caught in Peterborough 
River in 1667—a yard and three-quarters long.” 
Turban de Filets d’ Anguilles, Sauce Perig- 
eux —Eels split and boned, cut into 4 inch lengths, 
flattened; a turban mould or deep cake mould lined 
with fish forcemeat containing truffles and mush¬ 
rooms; fillets put in upright-way, center filled with 
forcemeat, steamed an hour, turned out; sauce of 
fried truffles in Bechamel, truffles garnish and 
prawns. 

EEL-POUT—Cooked same as eels. 

EGGS—“Though many, I own, are the evils 
they’ve brought us, And royalty’s here on her very 
last legs, Yet who can help loving the nation that 
taught us Six hundred and eighty-five ways to dress 
eggs!” That is what Tom Moore had to say in 
favor of France, and it shows that the invention of 
new ways of cooking eggs is a very old pastime. 
Some years ago a book was advertised in this coun¬ 
try which gave recipes for 700 ways of cooking 
eggs and [fish; perhaps, however, it was rather too 
much of a good thing, for it has dropped out of 
sight. That it was an old pursuit even in Moore’s 
day is apparent from a review of a once famous 
cookery book in three volumes that was published 
in 1739, in Paris, of course, by one Marin, the Ca- 
reme of his day, the leader in a new school of cook¬ 
ery. “ Marin was very strong on eggs—after meat, 
he averred, the most nourishing, assimilable and 
healthy of foods; the poor shared them with the 
rich, and the whole with the invalid, lie therefore 
gave endless ways of cooking them, and an infinity 
of omelettes. He even printed the menus of a din¬ 
ner for twelve and a supper for seven, each of four 






310 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


EGG 

courses, and all wholly and solely of eggs. The 
dishes included skewered eggs, meringues of eggs, 
eggs as sole and as whiting, a hot pie of fresh eggs, 
which would lead one to fear they were not all so, 
but rather suited to the palate of the city dame in 
the old play, who liked the whites ‘of a delicate 
blue.’ She ought to have married the man who pre¬ 
ferred his potatoes ‘with a bone in them.’ We 
light also upon eggs ‘ a la grand’inere,’ the mode 
of preparing which is not given—perhaps, it might 
be surmised, for obvious reasons; but no, all pre¬ 
conceived notions on the subject must be abandoned, 
because the dish figures as a hot entremets. The 
dinner contained twenty and the supper nineteen 
dishes of eggs, and the effect ought to have been 
to excite the state of mind shown by the parson in 
■old Joe, who dined with the miserly squire who had 
a. warren, and whose grace after meat ran: 

Of rabbits roast and rabbits boiled, 

Of rabbits cooked and rabbits spoiled, 

Of rabbits young and rabbits old, 

Of rabbits hot and rabbits cold, 

Of rabbits tender and rabbits tough, 

The Lord be praised we’ve had enough.” 

CEufs a la Religieuse —Convent eggs; hard- 
boiled eggs cut in slices while they are hot, and 
covered with softened butter mixed with grated 
cheese and pepper. CEufs a l’Appetissante— 
Hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, the yolks taken out, 
pounded with anchovies and butter, returned to the 
whites, smoothed over, decorated. Eggs au 
Bain-Marie —“Experiment by stewing all kinds 
of animal food in the bain-marie, and comparing the 
result with stewing in boiling or simmering water. 
A very simple and instructive experiment may be 
made by cooking an egg in a glue-pot or milk- 
scalder. Allow 6 or 7 minutes, instead of 3%. A 
hen’s egg cooked thus will be as tender and delicate 
as a plover’s egg cooked as usual in boiling water. 
Besides this tenderness there is another practical 
advantage. A minute or two more or less, or even 
three or four minutes more, will not spoil the egg. 
The effect of overdoing an egg at the proper cook¬ 
ing temperature, 160 to 180 degrees, is rather curi¬ 
ous. The white remains tender, but the yolk hard¬ 
ens, becomes harder than the white. I discovered 
this in making experiments on eggs. I found that 
the yolk of a hen’s egg coagulates at a lower tem¬ 
perature than the white. In ordinary cooking this 
does not show itself, as the heat is not allowed suf¬ 
ficient time to penetrate the yolk. When I warmed 
an egg thoughout to about 140 degrees, and kept it 
at that temperature during several hours, the yolk 
became quite hard, while the white was only 
jellied.” Rock Work, CEufs a la Niege— 
Snow eggs with custard; made by separating eggs, 
making a yellow custard with the yolks, whipping 
the whites firm with little sugar, and poaching by 
dropping spoonfuls in boiling milk, the poached 
white “rock work” being built up in the bowl of 
custard. Savory Eggs —Eggs beaten in a bowl 
•with little chopped green thyme, salt, pepper, 


EGG 

scrambled in plenty of butter. Eggs a i.’Annecy 
—Hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, yolks in a sauce¬ 
pan mixed with mushrooms, parsley, salt, pepper, 
onions and butter, raw eggs to bind, put back in 
whites. Mayonnaise Eggs —Hard-boiled eggs, 
ends cut off, yolk extracted, pounded with oil, 
vinegar, mustard, salt, cayenne, put back, eggs 
set on end in dish; garnished with salad. Egg 
Shells —“The peripatetic ‘shows,’ which move 
from fair to fair in the country, often include a 
shooting-gallery, the targets whereof are egg-shells. 
Inquiry has elicited the fact that these are collected 
in thousands from hotels and restausants, the chefs 
of which establishments have them blown instead of 
breaking them in the ordinary way.” Scrambled 
Eggs with Asparagus —Tips of asparagus cooked 
separately and buttered are mixed in scrambled eggs 
when just done. Eggs for the Brave—“No 
honest appetite ever yet rejected an egg in some 
guise. It is nutriment in the most portable form 
and in the most concentrated shape. After the vic¬ 
tory of Muhldorf, when the Kaiser Ludwig sat at a 
meal with his burggrafs and great captains, he de¬ 
termined on a piece of luxury—‘ one egg to every 
man, and two to the excellently valiant Schwepper- 
man ’.” Eggs with Ham-Toast —Potted ham with 
butter spread on toast; a poached egg on each slice. 
Egg Pyramids —The yolks and whites separated, 
each yolk dropped in a very small metal shell or 
butter-chip previously buttered; the whites whipped 
quite firm, a spoonful placed on each yolk, shaped 
up to a cone; baked in slack oven. Egg Zephyrs — 
Little steamed puddings of eggs and butter; made 
by beating 6 oz. melted butter into 6 eggs and 2 oz. 
sugar; flavor; sauce. Egg Souffles a la Reine — 
Whipped whites and sugar in small custard cups, 
steamed, the center scooped out, filled with rich' 
yellow custard; macaroon-crumbs on top. Egg 
Pancakes —Made of eggs and butter and a very 
little cream; 6 eggs to 4 oz. butter, 1 oz. cream, salt; 
cooked as a pancake; lemon-juice and sugar over. 
Eggs and Bacon —Sir Kenelm Digby, in his Closet 
of Cookery (1669), says: “A couple of poached eggs, 
with a few callops of pure bacon, are not bad for 
breakfast, or to begin a meal.” Egg Sandwich — 
Hard-boiled eggs pounded white and yolk together 
in a mortar with butter, salt, pepper, cayenne; 
spread on thin buttered bread. CEufs Mollets a 
la Bouchere —Soft eggs with meat. Half pound 
each of bacon, tenderloin beef and small button on¬ 
ions; the meat cut to the size of the onions; all fried 
in butter; brown sauce added, herbs, seasonings; 
lb. mushrooms fried; poached eggs served on top. 
Devilled Eggs —Hard-boiled eggs cut in halves; 
the yolks pounded with potted (devilled) ham, pep¬ 
per, mustard and oil, or butter, and lemon juice; 
put back in whites; served with salad. Emperors- 
Sliced hard eggs on rounds of bread; a split sardine 
coiled on the egg; chopped egg in center of sardine; 
stoned olive on top. Egg Soup —Yolks in a soup 
tureen; boiling clear soup beaten in; vermicelli, or 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


811 


EGG 

rice, separately cooked, mixed in. CEufs a l’Au- 
RORE — Hard-boiled eggs chopped in cream sauce, to 
be thick enough to keep form on the dish; part of the 
yolks reserved and rubbed through seive to yellow 
•over the surface; made hot to serve. Orleans 
Club Eggs —“An established luncheon dish, young 
in fame, but firmly established and approved since 
the first trial, is a dish of plattered eggs whose 
golden yolks are set in a red-brown semi-fluid of 
tomato puree and shredded anchovies.” Egg Salad- 
Sliced eggs, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, vinegar, 
oil, or with salad dressing. CEufs a la Tripe— 
Sliced eggs in onion-cream sauce. CEufs Far- 
cis —Stuffed eggs. Hard-boiled, cut in halves, 
yolks mixed with grated ham and parsley; but¬ 
ter over in the oven; served on croutons. Egg 
Sausages — Sausage skins are filled with the 
same mixture as for “ omelet with fine herbs,” in a 
raw state, filled with a funnel, divided into sausage 
lengths with twine, carefully poached without boil¬ 
ing; skin taken off when cold, warmed in butter, 
served ornamentally with a vegetable. CEufs a 
l’Arlequin —Many-colored. Poached eggs on 
toast, sprinkled with greeu parsley, red ham, black 
truffles, all chopped; brown sauce around in the 
dish. CEufs a la Duxelles —Poached eggs cut 
when cold like biscuits with a round cutter, coated 
with Duxelles sauce, breaded, egged, and breaded 
again, fried. Eggs Stuffed with Nouilles and 
Ham —Hard-boiled split, yoiks removed, whites 
filled with mixture of fine-cut nouilles mixed with 
minced ham; cooked yolks like vermicelli through 
.a seive on top. Egg Rolls —Minced eggs and 
smoked haddock or other fish, mixed with mayon¬ 
naise, placed inside some small hollowed baker’s 
rolls or finger rolls; served with cheese after dinner 
and for lunch. Spanish Eggs —Poached eggs on 
a dish of boiled rice plainly seasoned with salt and 
butter; stick cinnamon boiled in the rice. Curried 
Eggs— Quartered eggs in curry sauce, made by 
slicing an apple and onion and frying them in butter, 
curry powder, flour and water added to make the 
sauce; hard eggs put in, and served with a border 
of rice when hot enough. CEufs Brouilles aux 
Pointes d’Asperges— Scrambled eggs with aspar¬ 
agus tips. CEufs Brouilles aux Truffes — 
Scrambled eggs with truffles cut in dice, warmed in 
butter separately, then mixed in. CEufs Brouilles 
A l’Indienne —Scrambled eggs with butter, onion, 
salt, pepper, cayenne, curry powder and lemon 
juice. CEufs au Beurre Noir —Eggs dropped 
into butter which froths and turns brown while fry¬ 
ing; sprinkled with chili and tarragon vinegar; 
served on toast. CEufs Poches au Jus— Poached 
eggs in brown gravy; dish made memorable by 
Brillat-Savarin, who liked them cooked under roast¬ 
ing meat. CEufs Poches au Jambon— Poached 
•eggs on oval slices of broiled ham, with a peppery 
sauce. CEufs au Kari —Eggs with curry; poached 
in an onion-cream sauce containing curry powder 
•enough to make it yellow. CEufs en Canapes — 


EGG 

Hard-boiled, the yolks seasoned, made green with 
chopped parsley, put back in the whites; served on 
toast. CEufs au Mirroir— Eggs like a small 
hand-mirror; shirred eggs. Shirred Eggs —Amer¬ 
ican name; eggs dropped in a rather deep oval 
dish well spread with soft butter, and soft-cooked 
either in the oven or on top of range. CEufs a la 
Bonne Femme — Eggs a good woman’s way; 
baked with chopped onions and vinegar. CEufs 
au Soleil —Eggs like the sun; same as Duxelles. 
CEufs a la Proven$:ale —Cooked in small moulds 
with chopped onions, brown sauce, etc. CEufs a 
l’Avignonnaise — Hard-boiled, divided acrcss; 
forcemeat made of the yolks, bread, anchovy, salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, white sauce; a built-up dish made 
of the whites, and forcemeat, crumbs, cheese and 
butter over; baked. CEufs en CAissE-I-fard-boiled, 
sliced; in buttered cases lined with bread crumbs, 
with cheese in white sauce between the slices; 
crumbs on top; lightly baked. Baked Eggs— 
Hard-boiled, sliced in dish with tomato sauce and 
grated cheese; crumbs over; baked. CEufs a la 
Bechamel —Hard-boiled, split lengthwise, in Be¬ 
chamel sauce; crumbs over; browned in the oven. 
CEufs au Veloute —Slices in white sauce with but¬ 
ter and pastry. Fricasseed Eggs— Same as eggs 
a la tripe. CEufs au Gratin —Sliced in white 
sauce; covered with cheese and crumbs; browned. 
Eggs a la Creole —Eggs dropped singly into hot 
oil and fried in round shape; served with croutons 
and brown tomato sauce. CEufs a la Comtesse— 
Eggs boiled medium, shelled, dipped whole in thick 
yellow sauce, breaded, egged and breaded; fried, 
served on napkin with fried parsley. CEufs aux 
Pistaciies —A sweet dish; a kind of egg-pudding; 
made of 4 oz. butter, 1 oz. flour, y 2 pt. cream, in a 
saucepan; lemon rind, 1 oz. sugar, S eggs, 5 oz. pis¬ 
tachio nuts pounded; stirred over fire till like thick 
scrambled eggs; smoothed over in a dish; sugared; 
glazed in quick oven. Egg Croquettes —Hard- 
boiled and minced in cream sauce thick enough to 
set when cold; seasoned sufficiently for the eggs; 
some parsley and chives; roiled when cold; breaded; 
fried. Poached Eggs with Spinach — Spinach 
boiled green, drained and buttered; a neatly poached 
egg on top. CEufs en Vol-au-Vent— Puff-paste 
shell filled with slices of egg in rich cream sauce. 
Egg Patties —Small patty cases of puff paste 
(petits Tols-au-retits), the inside remainder of paste 
removed after baking; a raw egg dropped in; slack- 
baked again to set the egg; served hot with rich 
cream sauce and lemon. CEufs a la Polonaise - 
Hard-boiled, yolks mixed with fried shallots and 
tomato; whites re-filled; baked; fried crumbs over. 
Egg Blanquette —Yolks and whites steamed in 
separate moulds as if for soup, cut in lozenges with 
tongue, truffles and mushrooms; all mixed in rich 
cream sauce, colored pale-yellow with raw yolks; 
served in border of fried shapes of bread. Crous- 
tades aux CEufs —Cassolettes or fried-bread cases 
filled with the blanquette preparation. CEufs a la 







313 


TI1E STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


EGG 

Coque — Plain boiled eggs. Egg Medallions 
a la Russe — Ilard-boiled slices on rounds of 
fried bread, with top dressing of caviare. Rissoles 
d’CEufs —Hard-boiled, cut in dice, mixed in thick 
cream sauce with raw yolks and minced fried onions, 
etc., stirred over the fire same as croquette mixture. 
Pieces size of corks rolled up in paste and fried. 
(Eufs a la Regence— Hard-boiled, yolk extracted 
from aperture in end, filled with soft chicken force¬ 
meat, poached, dished on end with white Italian 
sauce. (Eufs a la Cardinal —Slices of hard- 
boiled eggs, yolks pounded to paste with butter, 
rings of white filled with red forcemeat of salmon 
and lobster; poached in baking pan; yolk-puree 
warmed in center of dish; rings around; pink car¬ 
dinal sauce over. Egg Pie a la Marseillaise— 
Onions and truffles sliced and fried with slight fla¬ 
vor of garlic, drained, sliced hard-boiled eggs added 
in seasoned Bechamel; bottom crust of short paste; 
top covered with mashed potato; baked brown. 
(Eufs a la Muscovite —Hard eggs scooped out 
and stuffed with Russian salad of cooked vegetables 
finely cut in tartare sauce; cold on bed of lettuce. 
GEufs a l’Oseille —Sorrel and eggs; the sorrel 
cooked like spinach with butter; hard eggs in quart¬ 
ers on top. Pickled Eggs— Hard-boiled eggs 
without shells in a jar; boiling, spiced vinegar with 
few onions poured over; ready for use in 3 days. 
Beignets d’(Eufs— Egg fritters; soft poached eggs 
seasoned, cut round, inclosed in thin puff-paste, 
breaded and fried. Egg Kromeskies-SoR poached 
eggs seasoned, dipped in batter, and fried. Daisy 
EGGS-Rings of fried bread just large enough inside 
to hold one egg; set on buttered pan, an egg dropped 
in; baked to set; seasoned, buttered; parsley dust 
sprinkled over. Fried Eggs a la Viennoise— 
Poached eggs trimmed round, dried on cloth, rolled 
in flour, and fried; used to garnish dishes, and for 
spinach, sorrel, etc. (Eufs sur le Plat —Eggs on 
the dish; shirred eggs with thick cream cooked on 
top, as well as butter in the dish. Egg Pudding a 
la Milanaise —Sliced hard eggs in a pudding dish, 
a custard with salt and pepper poured over, grated 
cheese on top; baked till set. Paupiettes of Eggs- 
Minced hard eggs highly seasoned, portions rolled 
in very thin pancakes, dipped in batter, and fried; 
they are like Frankfurt sausages in shape. En¬ 
glish Egg Puddings— Batter puddings made with 
much eggs and little flour, some cream, the whites 
beaten light and stirred in; boiled in bowls or in a 
floured pudding-bag; served as soon as taken up; 
eaten with an acid sauce, like raspberry vinegar, or 
lemon juice and sugar. (Eufs a la Matelote— 
Poached eggs with matelote sauce. Nest of 
Eggs —Nouilles paste (noodles) shred like straws 
and fried; used as a border to make a nest in a 
dish, and stuffed eggs with sauce served in it. 
(Eufs a la Suisse —(/) Shirred eggs, having a lin¬ 
ing of shaved cheese upon the butter in the dish, 
the eggs dropped in raw, cream on top, grated 
cheese on surface; baked. Swiss Eggs-(2) An omelet 


EGG 

or fondue; 6 eggs, 2 oz. each grated cheese and but¬ 
ter, salt, pepper, parsley, tarragon, chives; fried 
like pancake or omelet or in oven. Poached Eggs- 
a la Russe— Neatly poached eggs on toast, with a 
thin white mushroom sauce poured over all. Eggs- 
on Horseback —A couple of travelers stopping at 
the Hotel Fran^aise, in the city of Cordova, the 
capital of the Argentine Confederation, were sur¬ 
prised and amused by noticing on the bill of fare 
“eggs on horseback.” Determined to know what 
it meant they called for the equestrian dish, when a. 
steak “topped” with two eggs was placed on the 
table. One Egg for Ten Men —One ostrich egg 
for ten guests is the pattern at the California ostrich 
farm. “One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight,, 
nine, ten,” said Dwight Whiting, counting the 
guests he had invited to spend the day at the ostrich 
farm with him. “ I guess one egg will be enough,” 
and having given utterance to this expression he 
wended his way to the paddock and soon brought 
to the house an ostrich egg. For a whole hour it 
was boiled, and though there was then some mis¬ 
givings as to its being cooked, the shell was broken,, 
for curiosity could no longer be restrained, and a 
three-pound hard-boiled egg laid upon the plate. 
But aside from its size there was nothing peculiar 
about it. Yolks of Eggs —A correspondent asks:. 
“Can you tell me ■what use to make of surplus yolks- 
of eggs? You do not mention but one kind of cake 
made with yolks. I am employed in a fine bakery 
or confectionery and sometimes have several quarts 
of yolks left over in a week and have to throw them 
away spoiled.” Answer: If you were doing hotel 
work you would find, on the contrary, the whites- 
would be left over, there being so many more uses 
for the yolks. The yolk contains all the richness 
of the egg, and gives color, flavor and smoothness 
to puddings, creams, custards, and sweet sauces,, 
better alone than with the whites mixed in. We 
use the yolks also in fish sauces, salad dressings, in 
potato and other croquettes, also minced for an or¬ 
namental garnish, mixed with flour for “noodles,”' 
and with batter for another kind of soup, also 
thicken soups with them, instead of flour and starch,, 
and steam yolks in bulk like a cake, then cut up and 
use them as we would chicken meat for patties. 
We rub cooked yolks through a sieve, making n 
sort of vermicelli, to serve with some dish, and we 
drop them whole, also, in soup to substitute turtle 
eggs. We cut them up and mix with chicken meat,, 
mushrooms and sauce to fill the shells of fried 
bread with, and if there are any raw yolks left over 
after that, we mix them in the waffle batter. In a 
good bakery you will find nearly as many uses for 
this, the best part of the egg, no matter how many 
may be left over from your using the whites in me¬ 
ringues, macaroons, icing, etc., for the yolks may¬ 
be mixed with water and used the same as whole, 
eggs. Take a pint measure about two-thirds full 
of yolks, fill it up with water and you have a pint 
of eggs, which is a pound, or equal to 10 eggs, and 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


313 


EGG 

the mixture of yolks and water can be used in mak¬ 
ing almost any sort of cakes, the only difference 
•observable being that they are yellower and richer 
than if whole eggs are employed. In this way you 
can utilize the yolks in all sorts of small cakes, in 
French coffee cakes, buns, rusks, brioches, and in 
the sorts of sponge cakes and jelly rolls which are 
made light with powder instead of whipped whites. 
If you make ice creams, they alone—that is the fancy 
kinds—should use up all of that material you can 
have to spare, and another good purpose to put sur¬ 
plus egg yolks to, is to mix them with lemon or 
•orange syrup and a little butter, and stir the mixture 
over the fire until it thickens, making lemon or 
orange butter or cheese-cake mixture. CEufs en 
Aspic —Sliced hard-boiled eggs ornamentally set in 
a mould of aspic jelly, turned out on a border of 
salad. G 2 ufs au Tomate —Hard-boiled, the whites 
cut in strips in tomato sauce, in a dish with border 
of fried bread, the yolks chopped and spread on top. 
Golden Eggs —Hard-boiled, shelled, breaded and 
fried whole. Sunshiny Eggs —Eggs fried on one 
side, with tomato sauce poured over in the dish. 
Egg Omelets— See omelets . Plover’s Eggs— See 
plover. An Epicure on Eggs — “I agree with 
Falstaff, in his contempt for the prevalent absurdity 
of eating eggs, eggs, e^gs at breakfast. ‘ No pullet 
sperm in my brewage,’ say I. I prefer chicken to 
the egg, and the hen, wdien she is really a fine bird 
and well roasted or grilled, to the chicken.” 

EGG FLIP —See hot brews. “ They can also be 
drunk in the shape of that ‘egg flip,’ which sustains 
the oratorical efforts of modern statesmen.” 

EGG-NOGG and ICED EGG-NOGG — See 
drinks. 

EGG KISSES—Meringues; baked, white of egg 
and sugar. 

EGG SAUCE—Butter sauce with an admixture 
of chopped eggs. 

EGG REMEDIES—The white is the most effi¬ 
cacious of remedies for burns, and the oil extract¬ 
able from the yolks is regarded by the Russians as 
an almost miraculous salve for cuts, bruises and 
scratches. A raw egg, swallowed in the throat, 
and the white of two eggs will render the deadly 
-corrosive sublimate as harmless as a dose of cal¬ 
omel. 

EGG OIL—Is extracted from the yolks by the 
family doctors in the southern states, by slowly fry¬ 
ing, stirring and almost burning a mass of yolks in 
a frying pan without any additions. 

EGGS IN THE ARTS-In France alone the 
wine clarifiers use more than So,000,000 a year, and 
the Alsatians consume fully 38,000,000 in calico 
printing and for dressing the leather used in mak¬ 
ing the finest of French kid gloves. 

EGG PRESERVATION—Drying eggs in the 
form of grains of powder has proved practicable 
but scarcely yet commercially successful, probably 


EGG 

through the fear of the public that spoiled eggs 
may be concealed in the preparation. The experi¬ 
ment can easily be tried by spreading a beaten egg 
upon a plate and allowing it to dry out; it will leave 
the plate in brittle crumbs which can then be dis¬ 
solved in warm water and used. The yolk aione, if 
dried, cannot be dissolved afterwards unless with 
the aid of some ehemical admixture. The white 
alone if dried is easily soluble, and easily kept and 
after keeping and dissolving in water can be beaten 
to froth as well as if fresh. Tiie Havana Pro¬ 
cess —The following is the “Havana process” for 
keeging eggs, the formula for which has been kept 
a secret or sold to persons who were willing to pay 
$2 for it: Take twenty-four gallons of water and 
p it in 12 pounds of unslaked lime and four pounds 
of salt. Stir well several times a day and then let 
it stand and settle until perfectly clear. Then draw 
off twenty gallons of the clear lime and salt water. 
By putting a spigot in the barrel about four inches 
above the bottom you can draw off the clear water 
and leave the settlings. Then take five ounces of 
baking soda, five ounces cream tartar, five ounces 
saltpetre, five ounces borax and one ounce of alum; 
pulverise these, mix and disolve in a gallon of boil¬ 
ing water, which should be poured into your twenty 
gallons of lime water. This will fill a whisky barrel 
about half full and such a barrel holds 150 doz. eggs. 
Let the water stand one inch above the eggs. Cover 
with old cloth and put a bucket of the settlings over 
it. As the water evaporates add more, and the eggs 
must be kept covered. For the ordinary purposes 
of home consumption the French peasantry have for 
ages preserved their eggs In a very simple fashion. 
They take a wooden case, or a large barrel, and pack 
them in thick layers of sawdust, fine sand, chalk, 
bran, cinders, or coal dust, so that they do not touch 
each other. In the United States we have limed 
eggs—that is, eggs kept in lime water—and pickled 
eggs—kept in strong brine—so much a matter of 
course that they are regular market quotations, 
which shows that they are the most expedient and 
practicable ways. The eggs are not as good as fresh 
and the prices are according, still they are good and 
sometimes form the only available supply of this 
most necessary article. In experiments with egg- 
preservatives too little attention seems to be paid to 
the question of temperature; eggs are like meat and 
can be kept for an indefinite period in a cold storage 
chamber at about the freezing point, without regard 
to the packing; on the other hand any vegetable 
packing that may become damp around them will 
heat and spoil them in a few days. A farmer carried 
off the prize at a fair for his eggs, preserved for 
months by only packing in dry bran; if all had been 
known probably it would have been found that a 
cold cellar had been the real means of saving them. 

EGG PLANT—The aubergine fruit; deep pur¬ 
ple, almost black outside; egg-shaped, size from 
that of a pint cup to three times that bulk; plentiful 
and cheap in the markets; most at home in the 







314 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ELD 

South. Egg Plant a la Turque — Mussaka, I 
learned, otherwise Imam-Buildi (which in English 
means “the High-Priest’s Tuck-in”,) was the name 
of it, and the manner of its preparation the follow¬ 
ing: Cut up an egg plant ( aubergine ) into slices, 
salt them, strain them for a few minutes, dry them 
well in cloth, then fry them in butter till they are of 
a rich brown color. Now chop up some beef very 
fine, and mince it carefully with some parsley, a 
suggestion of onion, pepper and salt, butter, and a 
few fresh tomatoes thinly sliced, and stew these 
things together until the meat is browned. Next, 
arrange in a pie-dish or mould, layers of egg plant, 
and layers of the stew. Pour a little broth or gravy 
into the mould, and bake in the oven for about thirty 
five minutes. Turn the whole carefully out on to a 
dish, or, better still, serve in the pie-dish. Broiled 
Egg-Plant —Small ones split in halves lengthwise, 
not pared, seasoned with salt, pepper, oil, broiled; 
served the white side up; butter sauce. Auber¬ 
gine a la Provencale —Broiled, with ancho¬ 
vies, fried onions and garlic in tomato sauce. Au¬ 
bergine Farcies a l’Italienne — Halves, not 
peeled, fried, inside partly taken out and mixed 
with chopped shallots, mushrooms, fat pork, pars¬ 
ley, etc., put back, crumbs on top; baked. Egg 
Plant in Batter —Pared, sliced, dropped for a 
minute or two in boiling salted water, or else steeped 
an hour in cold salted water to extract the raw taste, 
dried, dipped in batter, fried like a fritter, sprinkled 
with salt, served as a vegetable with meat. Fried 
Egg Plant —Sliced, blanched or steeped, dried, 
egged, rolled in cracker crumbs, fried, sprinkled 
with salt. In France the aubergine or egg plant is 
eaten in soups and stews. 

ELDERBERRY The elder grows by the side 
of creeks almost everywhere; the berries attain a 
somewhat larger size and juicier condition, how¬ 
ever, in cool summer climates. Elderberry Syrup 
—The expressed juice is boiled with sugar, cloves, 
cinnamon and sugar, bottled and used to make hot 
drinks. Elderberries in Pies —They are mixed 
with apples and thus give a flavor, a new fruit in 

effect. Elderberry Catsup -Berries with boil 

ing vinegar, salt and spices; used for fish sauce. 
Elder Brandy —The juice with some spirits ad¬ 
ded. Elder Wine— Boiled juice with sugar, spices 
and yeast, fermented, racked off and bottled. At 
a hotel at Hastings, Douglas Jerrold was dining 
with two friends, one of whom, after dinner, ordered 
a bottle of old port. “Waiter,” added Jerrold, with 
a significant twinkle of his eye, “mind now, a bottle 
of your old port, not elder port.” Beignets de 
Fleurs de Sureau —Fritters of sprigs of elder 
flowers. 

ELEPHANT’S FEET—Elephant’s feet, pickled 
in strong toddy vinegar and cayenne pepper, are 
considered in Ceylon an Apician luxury. The 
taste is said to resemble buffalo’s hump. The native 
of South Africa loves nothing better than a slice of 
roast elephant. 


EPI 

ELK—Game still found plentiful in North Amer¬ 
ica; good meat but not choice game; the flesh is more 
like dark beef than like venison, without the good 
flavor of either; is best cooked in steaks; can be 
cooked and sauced in any of the ways suitable for 
beef. 

EMINCE (Fr.)—Mince. 

ENDIVE—Chicory; cooked as spinach; used as 
lettuce for salads. Endive Salad a laFrancaise 
—The white leaves only are good. The salad bowl 
is rubbed with garlic and endive cut up in it; i tea¬ 
spoon salt, little pepper, 5 tablespoons oil, 2 table¬ 
spoons vinegar. Two crusts rubbed on garlic; to 
be stirred about in the salad then taken out. 

ENTRECOTE—Rib steak of beef. Entrecote 
de Porc— A pork steak or slice cut anywhere. En¬ 
trecotes de Boeuf a la Bordelaise— Thick rib 
steaks; broiled, with Bordelaise sauce and beef mar¬ 
row. 

ENTREES—Small meats made up in various 
guises with sauces and garnishings, as distin¬ 
guished from the principal joints and roasts. 

ENTREMETS—Term rarely used. French name 
for made dishes of vegetables, sundry savories, pud¬ 
dings, creams, something less than an entree. 
“Another Traite de la Cuisine had just then been 
published, by one Menon it would appear, but it was 
a mere rechauffe of Massialot’s work. This long 
forgotten gift of the god of revelry took so well that 
three years later Marin, the ‘Officer,’—the cook no 
less—who produced it issued a sequal in three vol¬ 
umes, with a preface by De Querlon. The first point 
in the history of cookery that strikes one is that en¬ 
tremets were just then beginning to get confounded 
with hors dceuvres, and these with entrees; the re¬ 
cent revolution in taste had extended even to the 
order of the dishes. Except in ‘repasts of cere¬ 
mony,’ there were no fixed rules; and Marin, while 
on the subject remarked, under the head of Spring, 
that the sterility of that season left him no entre¬ 
mets but ham, or what his skill could evolve out of 
vegetables.” 

EPAULE (Fr.)—Shoulder. Epaule d’ Agneau 
—Shoulder of lamb. 

EPERLANS (Fr.)—Smelts. 

EPICURE—A dainty eater; a discriminator in 
diet; a critic of flavors; an analyst of taste. “ Mr. 
Lynch is an epicure, and that reminds me of a story 
the captain of my yacht tells. Two Englishmen 
were discussing the subject of eating, and one says 
to the other: ‘ Ennery, vot is a h’epicure?’ The 
answer was: ‘O, a h’epicure? Why, a h’epicure 
is a bloke as will h’eat h’ennything.’ ” 

EPIGRAMME—Said to be from epigast, the 
lower part of the breast, but here is a different ex¬ 
planation: “ In the days when French tax-farmers 
were as remarkable for their ignorance as for their 
wealth, a gentleman observed to one of them that he 
had been dining with a poet who regaled him with 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


315 


EPI 

en epigram. Envious and angry, the dull fellow 
rushed home and demanded of his cook ‘how it came 
that no epigrams were served up at his table?’ The 
chef fortunately had wit and fancy equal to the 
emergency, and at the next dinner he served to his 
employer appeared an epigram of lamb. This was 
well contrived. Poetical epigrams usually consist 
in French of alternate verses. The lamb consisted 
of alternate cutlets, one set of the ordinary kind, cut 
from the neck; the other made out of the breast of 
lamb—brazed, boned, pressed between two dishes, 
and, when cold, carved into cutlet shapes decorated 
with asparagus points.” Epigramme de Mouton— 
The breast cooked in stock till tender, bones pulled 
out and reserved, meat chopped and made up as for 
croquettes; flat croquettes made of it, egged, breaded, 
bone stuck in each to imitate cutlet, fried. Regular 
mutton chops also prepared and one of each served 
to each person, with peas or asparagus. Epigram¬ 
me de Volaille —Breast of chicken neatly shaped, 
and flat croquettes made of the other parts, served 
together with sauce, etc. 

EPINARDS (Fr.)—Spinach. 

ESCALOPES (Fr.) — Thin slices; scollops or 
collops of beef, veal, mutton, pork, etc. Escalopes 
de Ris de V eau AO Supreme— Slices of veal sweet¬ 
breads saute in butter; served with supreme sauce. 
Escalopes de Dinde en Blanquette — Turkey 
breast in white cream-sauce. Escalopes de Lape- 
reau AU Fumet —Collops or fillets of rabbits baked 
in rabbit essence or reduced stock of rabbit carcass. 

ESCAROLE—Broad-leaved endive. 

ESCHALOTTE (Fr.) —Shallot; mild kind of 
onion. 

ESPAGNOLE SAUCE—A stock sauce or brown 
gravy kept on hand by cooks to form the basis of 
other sauces; made by frying together carrots, on¬ 
ions, veal, ham, aromatic herbs, and some spices, 
adding broth, wine, tomatoes, flour, butter; strained, 
boiled and skimmed until bright brown. 

ESTRAGON—Tarragon; a garden herb, used to 
flavor vinegar and soups, sauces, etc. Estragon 
Sauce— White broth thickened, with chopped tarra¬ 
gon and tarragon vinegar. 

ESTURGEON (Fr.)—Sturgeon. 

EVENTAIL AUX CERISES — Fan-form of 
strips of puff-paste on a bed of marmalade and 
cherries. 

EXCELLENT AU CAFE—See Ices. 

EXCELLENT PUDDING—A boiled plum pud¬ 
ding goes by that Dame; made of i lb. each suet, 
flour, sugar, raisins, currants; J4 lb. bread crumbs, 
some citron, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, ginger, 
salt, rum, 8 eggs (omitting 4 of the whites); suet and 
dry goods mixed; sugar, eggs and rum to moisten; 
boiled in a bag 6 hours. 

EXTRACT OF BEEF—A very useful prepara¬ 
tion for enriching consommes and gravies, and mak- 


FEC 

ing soup without much previous preparation of stock 
The Australian and Brazilian extracts are the like¬ 
liest to be genuine, if in original packages, for the 
reason that animals are killed there in some places 
for their hides only, there being no market for the 
meat other than the demand from the extract of 
meat manufacturers. It is put up in bladders, almost 
dried to solidity. That manufactured in the states 
can be bought reasonably in cans, but in the small 
pots is too expensive for most hotels and restaurants. 

F. 

FAISAN (Fr.)—Pheasant. 

FAIRY BUTTER — Yolk of hard-boiled eggs 
pounded with butter, powdered sugar and flavor¬ 
ings. 

FAIRY GINGERBREAD—Cakes crisp and but¬ 
tery, as thin as cards; made of 1 cup butter, 2 cups 
sugar, 1 cup milk, 4 cups flour, 1 tablespoon ginger; 
spread extremely thin on pans buttered, but cold; 
baked in slack oven; cut in squares while warm. 

FALERNIAN WINE—Classical allusion often 
met with, having reference to famous wines of old 
Rome. 

FANCHONETTES-The common English name 
of the whole assortment is cheese-cake. They are 
patty-pan tartlets, filled with various custard mix¬ 
tures, such as lemon or chocolate-pie stuff, or lemon 
honey, with frosting on top; should be ornamented 
with piping besides. 

FARCE (Fr.)—Forcemeat; stuffing. 

FARCIE (Fr.)—Stuffed. 

FARINA—Pudding material made from wheat; 
it is like sifted corn-meal to the touch. There are 
two kinds, one being Graham farina, which is used 
principally for making mush or porridge for break¬ 
fast or supper; takes 3 oz. to a quart of water or milk; 
requires long cooking in a bain-marie or double 
kettle; pastry cooks let it simmer in milk for pud¬ 
dings at side of the range, then mix in sugar, butter 
and eggs, and bake. Farina Custard Pudding— 
Made thin with farina boiled in milk, and thickened 
with sufficient yolks, sugar, butter, flavoring; baked; 
served with sauce. Boiled Farina Pudding— 
Made with 3 oz. in 1 qt. milk; simmered till thick, 
little sugar, butter, 2 yolks; served in saucers with 
thick lemon-syrup sauce. Consomme with Fa¬ 
rina —Soup first made clear; 1 oz. farina to each qt., 
washed, and simmered in it till transparent. Fa¬ 
rina Cup Custard —Boiled custard, of 1 oz. to 1 qt. 
milk, well cooked in it, 4 yolks to each qaart, sugar, 
flavor; made cold in ice water; served in cups. Fa¬ 
rina Ice-Cream — Cup-custard frozen; it is also 
called Frozen Farina-Pudding. 

FAWN—A young deer; is roasted, served with 
currant jelly. 

FAUSSE TORTUE (Fr.)—Mock cr false turtle. 

FECULA (Fr.)—Potato flour, or starch. 

FECULA DE MAIS—Corn-starch. 





316 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


FEN 

FENNEL—A garden plant much cultivated in 
England, which also grows wild in Florida; es¬ 
teemed as a flavoring accompaniment to boiled 
mackerel and salmon. It is as much a matter, of 
course, to boil fennel with mackerel as to serve mint 
with lamb and peas. The green leaves tied in 
bunches are used; they are of the feathery sort, 
somewhat resembling asparagus leaves. Fennel 
Sauce —Made same as parsley sauce; a spoonful of 
chopped fennel stirred into hot butter-sauce. 

FERMIERE (a la )—Farmers’s style. 

FETTICL T S—Fat hen; lamb’s quarter and other 
names; a tall, silvery green weed, grows on rich 
spots of land about farm houses; excellent boiled as 
spinach. 

FEVES DE MARAIS—Marsh beans; French 
name of the broad beans much used in England. 

FIDELINI—One of the varieties of Italian paste, 
thicker than vermicelli, thinner than spaghetti; is 
put up in even lenghts in pound boxes; used for 
soups and same as spaghetti. Fidelini a la Ro- 
yale —Soup; made of lb. fidelini, boiled in salted 
water, drained out, put into 5 pts. chicken broth, 6 
yolks, cup of cream, seasonings, stirred up to 
thicken without boiling. Grated parmesan cheese 
served with it separately. 

FIGS—Fresh figs are plentiful in Florida and 
the Gulf states, and are served as breakfast and des¬ 
sert fruit with cream; are used in pies and tarts, 
mixed with lemon juice; are best, perhaps, in pre¬ 
serves with lemon peel and ginger, an article of 
some prominence now among southern exported 
products. Dried FrGS —Served along with fresh 
fruits for dessert, also cut up and used in most 
respects the same as raisins in cakes and puddings. 
Fig Pie —Cut up, stewed with a cut lemon in syrup, 
made with either a top crust or with strips over. 
Pig Pudding a l’Italienne— Made of y 2 lb. figs 
{chopped fine), y lb. breadcrumbs, 6 oz. suet, 6 oz. 
sugar, 2 eggs, 1 teacupful milk, nutmeg as required; 
boil or steam for three hours. Fig P'ritters— 
Steamed figs and fig fritters are new dishes at some 
hotels and restaurants where they study gastro¬ 
nomic novelties. Fig Sue— “ Fig sue is a favorite 
dish in Westmoreland. It is made in the following 
manner by the better-class people: y 2 lb. figs (cut 
up small), y lb. bread, 2 oz. currants, % lb. sugar, 
y 2 pt. beer. Put in a pan, simmer half an hour, 
serve as a pudding. There is another method, same 
ingredients, but with home-made beer, about a pint 
of strong ale being added after boiling. This is 
eaten out of basins like soup. Fig sue is also simi¬ 
larly prepared with milk in the place of beer in the 
rural districts, sometimes thickened with oatmeal. 
It is in great favor here with all classes, and is 
taken at dinner, tea, or at night, Good Friday being 
the principal day of consumption.” Fig Pudding 
—Boiled pudding, made of 4 oz. suet, 5 oz. bread¬ 
crumbs, 5 oz. figs finely minced, 3 tablespoons sugar, 
2 eggs, salt; boiled in a mould 3 hours; brandy 


FIL 

sauce. Fig Paste —Only a name for a kind of gum 
drops compound, no figs about it. The original 
name is Turkish, not adapted to be taken along with 
the confection. Made of 12 lbs. sugar, 3 lbs. glu¬ 
cose, iy lbs. corn starch, 3 gallons water, y oz. 
citric acid. Water and sugar boiled, starch wetted 
and added, then the acid and glucose; stirred con¬ 
stantly and cooked until it leaves the fingers in cool¬ 
ing. Variously flavored, colored, cut and shaped 
in powdered sugar. 

FIG-PECKER—Small bird that divides honors 
with the ortolan among European bon-vivants. 

FILBERT — Well-known nut of the hazel-nut 
kind; served at dessert either with nut-crackers or, 
if that is not convenient, the nuts ready cracked be¬ 
fore being served in the baskets. Filbert Soup— 
“I wonder whether any modern chef possesses a 
recipe for the puree of walnuts which George IV 
frequently devoured? The foundation was a very 
strong game stock made from pheasants or par¬ 
tridges, and the walnuts were well pounded and 
blended with cream. It was a fellow soup to the 
puree of filberts, which was the favorite dish with 
his majesty in autumn, and which also was made 
with pheasants or partridges.” Filbert Creams 
—Same ways as almonds. Bisque of Filberts— 
Ice cream with pounded filberts, same way as al¬ 
monds. Filbert Butter —Is a nice addition to 
sandwiches, or may be used as a small side-dish. 
To make it, pound twelve filbert kernels and three 
ounces of butter thoroughly in a mortar, and season 
with finely chopped parsley, chives, and tarragon 
leaves. 

FILLET—A strip or band of meat without bone. 
Fillet of Beef — The tenderloin entire, also in 
steaks or slices (small fillets, filets mignons)’, it is the 
undercut of the sirloin, the long band of meat which 
lies between the kidney fat and the backbone, ex¬ 
tending from the small of the back to the hip joint. 
Fillet of Veal —The round or fleshy part of the 
leg of the veal; the bone taken out it is usually 
larded, stuffed, coiled up and skewered to a round 
shape. Fillet of Pork or Mutton —The meat of 
the saddle or middle of the back taken from the 
bone; or a strip from one side, from the shoulder 
blade to the hip; seldom named in the menu; used 
technically in cookery recipes. Fillets of Fowl 
—The breast in two parts, or one. There is a nat¬ 
ural division whereby the larger part leaves the 
minion fillet adhering to the breast bone. In some 
elaborate dishes the two are used separately; usu¬ 
ally the entire breast is meant when the fillet of fowl 
is named. Fillets of Rabbit or Hare — The 
meatly part of the back and legs, flattened and 
shaped for the various purposes. Fillets of 
Soles— The English flat-fish, called the sole, is es¬ 
pecially adapted in its structure to make thin bands 
of fish, which lend themselves readily to the cook’s 
purposes to roll, double over or shape variously; 
hen.ee fillets of soles are named in menus ten times 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


31 r 


FIN 

as frequently as the plain fish itself. Filets de 
Soles a i.a Careme —The fillets pared and flattened, 
spread over with fish forcemeat containing- truffles 
and mushrooms, doubled together, laid in order in a 
buttered saucepan, y 2 bottle chablis, aromatics, set 
m the oven for 20 minutes. Drained, dished in 
circular form, with a ragout of prawns etc., in the 
center, and sauce made of the saucepan gravy, meat 
essence and tomatoes; strained. Fillets of Fish— 
'Thin fish-steaks cut the long way; boneless sides of 
fish. Fillets of Vegetables— “ In his eagerness 
to present some novelty he even directs how to serve 
a dinner entirely in fillets l not only are his meats 
cut in strips, but haricots, carrots, cucumbers, leeks, 
and whatever else, are all shredded to the fineness 
of straws; but this savors more of conjuring than of 
good cookery.” 

FINANCIERE GARNISH—Consists of brown 
sauce with sherry, lemon, cock’s combs, livers, 
•quenelles, pieces of sweetbreads, etc. Used to gar¬ 
nish a dish either by filling in the center or around 
the cutlets, sweetbreads, birds or'fillet, it gives the 
designation a la Financiere. 

FINANCIERE SAUCE—Brown sauce made 
with wine, lemon, mushrooms cut small, catsup> 
and espagnole. 

FINE-HERBS SAUCE — Brown sauce made 
of espagnole, chopped mushrooms, shallots and 
parsley. 

FINES HERBES [aux') —With shallots, mush¬ 
rooms and parsley scattered over or amongst. 
JEscalopes de Ris de Veau aux Fines Herbes— 
Sweetbreads cut small in a baking dish with fine 
herbs, gravy and wine; cooked in the oven. 

FINGER BISCUITS—Lady-fingers; Savoy-bis¬ 
cuits; thin sponge cakes placed together in pairs. 

FINGER ROLLS—The Italian Grissini bread, 
salt sticks, soup sticks; finger shapes of crusty 
bread to eat with soup. 

FINNAN TIADDIES—Commercial name and 
trade brand of Findon haddocks; smoked haddocks, 
cooked by (1) broiling, previously steeped in warm 
water, (2) boiliug a short time in a shallow pan; 
buttered when done; (3) baking in a little milk aild 
butter. Sauce for “Haddie” —Butter, mustard 
and lemon juice made warm. 

FISH QUOTATIONS—for menus: “ Fish is no 
less important to a good dinner than soup. There 
is an Oriental proverb, to the effect that ‘your Arab 
despises fish,’ which as the Arabs dwell where fish 
are not, is equivalent to saying, ‘the grapes are 
sour.’ ” “ St. Kevin, a religious gentleman who 

lived by the fish he caught in one of the Irish lakes, 
was subjected to a severe temptation on one of his 
piscatorial excursions, but whether he fell into the 
snare laid for him or not, I do not now remember. 
It seems that a belle of that ilk, named Kate, put the 
iollowing leading question to him: 

* You’re a rare hand at fishing,’ says Kate. 

* It’s yourself dear, that knows how to hook ’em: 


FIS 

But when you have caught’m, agrah! 

Don’t you want a young woman to cook ’em?’ 

If St. Kevin said ‘No,’he was not the Irishman I 
take him to have been.” “Fishes are welcome at 
every meal, but they are peculiarly adapted for break¬ 
fast. Not one would we banish; neither regal sal¬ 
mon, nor lordly turbot; voracious cod, nor delicate 
whiting; giant perch, nor accommodating sole; 
bladderless mackerel, nor musical skate; savage 
pike, nor lowly herring; pretentious mullet, nor 
common haddock—no, not even the vulgar plaice. 
They are delicate, they are easy of digestion, and 
they take kindly to any flavoring the most erratic 
palate may desire. Hence it is that they are so 
valuable at the first meal.” “In order to know what 
cod really is, you musl eat it at Newfoundland^ 
Herring is not worthy of the name except on the 
banks of Lochfyne, in Argyleshire; and the best 
salmon in the whole world is that of the Boyne.” 
“ A good sea fish is spoiled with too great refine¬ 
ment in this matter; a^l it needs is a clean gridiron, 
or a boiling kettle, a hot plate, sweet bread and but¬ 
ter. If a sauce is desired, do not take anchovy be¬ 
cause it is ‘the thing,’ but try the more homely re¬ 
cipe of the great Edingburgh epicures: ‘Ketchup 
(mushroom), mustard, cayenne, butter, amalga¬ 
mated on your own plate by your own hand, each 
man according to his proportion.” This is for witty 
paragraphers, to say something about hotel salt 
mackerel; the Nevada salt fish mines are still doing 
business: “During the sinking of large pits and wells 
in Nevada stratas of rock salt were cut through, in 
which were found imbedded perfectly preserved 
fish, which are doubtless thousands of 3'ears old, as 
the salt field occupies what was once the bottom of 
a large lake, and no such fish are now to be found in 
any of the modern Nevada lakes. The specimens 
are not petrified, but flesh, and all are preserved in 
perfect form, and after being soaked in water for 
two or three days can be cooked and eaten; but are 
not very palatable. After being exposed to the air and 
sun for a day or two they become as hard as wood.” 
A traveler, Wayett Gill, says: “I am interested in 
the discussion going on at home about fish as food 
for the brain. For years past there has been annually 
resident in the training institution at Raratonga 
from fifty to seventy natives of the various islands 
of the South Pacific. The most quick-witted stu¬ 
dents come from the low coral islands and have 
grown to manhood on a diet of fish and cocoanuts. 
In muscular strength, however, and in the power of 
endurance they are decidedly inferior to the inhabi¬ 
tants of volcanic islands who used a mixed diet.” 
Fish Stew —The meat being cut from the bones of 
any kind of fish,the bones,heads and tails are boiled in 
water with onion and any kind of herb or vegetable 
seasonings to make a fish broth or cullis; some roux 
of butter and flour is stirred over the fire in another 
sauce-pan and the fish broth strained to it, making 
a slightly thickened soup. The pieces of fish are 
stewed in this, with such additions as may be avail- 




318 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


FIS 

able, shrimps, perhaps oysters, perhaps tomatoes, 
white wine or cider and mushrooms, or only parsley 
and butter, or sliced potatoes. These additions are 
what give the different names to the dishes. Baked 
Fish —Perhaps the least troublesome mode of cook- 
pig fish is to bake it. Any fish in slices, or of small 
size, can be so served by putting it on a well- 
buttered dish with herbs, lemon juice,vinegar, mush¬ 
rooms, a glass of white wine, a little stock, anchovy 
sauce, or anything else that the sense of the cook 
may suggest, and covering it with brown bread¬ 
crumbs or a sheet of buttered paper. A few minutes 
will make it ready for table, and all it wants is to 
be slipped on a dish and garnished. Fishes care¬ 
fully stuffed and baked whole are generally nice; it 
is a method very well suited to fresh-water fish, and 
a delicious way of cooking mullet or a dish of whit¬ 
ing. Fish Pies —Cornwall and Wales are famous 
for their fish pies. This is by no means a despicable 
way of cooking fish, if they are tender and not bony. 
Eels, bass, all kinds of flat fish, lobsters, shrimps, 
and oysters are mostly used. The rule is to remove 
all bones, fins, etc.; and when the pie is nearly done, 
to uncover it partially, drain off the liquor, and add 
cream in its place, and then return a few minutes to 
the oven. Pies made of herring and pilchard have 
a plentiful allowance of scalded leeks in them. 
Fish Sausages— An appetizing and novel form of 
sausage made from the best portions of the dogger- 
bank cod, and other white-fleshed fish, directly they r 
are landed from the fisherman’s boats. They are 
delicately and agreeably seasoned, and may be had 
either quite fresh or after having been lightly 
smoked. Fried, boiled, curried, or otherwise treated 
they afford a variety of excellent dishes. Pulled 
Fish -Cold boiled fish pulled in pieces; to i lb. fish 
y 2 pt. cream, tablespoon mustard, i do. anchovy 
essence, i do. catsup, pepper, salt, butter and flour 
to thicken; hot in sauce-pan. Pate de Poisson a 
la Russe —A specialty at Guntor’s, London. A 
cold raised fish pie, for balls, suppers and luncheons, 
made of: a raised pie case in a mould, filleted soles 
stewed with mushrooms, parsley, onions, wine. 
Fillets taken out, mushrooms, shallots, etc., chopped 
and mixed in Duxelles sauce. A layer of fillets 
soles, in the pie case, layer of compound sauce, layer 
of pickled lobster, layer of mayonnaise sauce, few 
shrimps, truffles, repeated till case is full, gelatine 
in the fish liquor to make jelly, poured in when 
nearly set; not to be baked; crust baked beforehand 
with filling of flour. This is a fish aspic in form of 
a pie. Cold Fish Cutlets— Croquettes, or imita¬ 
tion shapes of cutlets, made of cold fish in sauce 
breaded and fried; served hot; sauce. Cold Fish 
BEiGNETS-Fish, butter, crumbs, seasonings, pound¬ 
ed to a paste; pieces breaded and rolled in grated 
cheese, baked in pan with little butter. Cold Fish 
Scalloped —Pulled flakes of fish in scallops or clam 
shells; mustard, butter, cayenne, lemon juice, salt, 
mixed, poured over fish, crumbs on top, baked. 
Cold Fish Salad —Pieces sprinkled with lemon 
juice along with lettuce and salad dressing. 


FLU 

FLAGEOLETS—Haricots flageolets; the green 
seed beans shelled out of string beans. They can 
be bought in cans same as French peas and are as 
green; the beans so used are of special green-seeded 
kinds. Used as a choice vegetable for course din¬ 
ners, club dishes, etc. 

FLAMANDE (a la )—In Flemish or Holland 
style. 

% 

FLAN (Fr.)—An open tart with custard on top of 
the fruit. Flan de Peaches —A paste crust laid in 
the baking pan is covered with either preserved or 
thick stewed peaches or else, in the season with soft 
ripe peaches and cream; a 6-egg custard poured 
over, baked till custard is set; cut in squares when 
cold. 

FLEMISH SAUCE—Butter sauce made yellow 
with yolks and mustard; vinegar, parsley, nutmeg, 
pepper. 

FLITCH OF BACON—English name for a 
whole side of dry salt pork; any large piece of side 
meat. 

FLOAT—An American culinary term equivalent 
to floating island, used to denote several nondescript 
trifles among the sweets. Snow Float—W hipped 
jelly served in a saucer of custard. Raspberry 
FLOAT-R aspberry jam mingled with whipped white 
of an egg or whipped cream, served by spoonfuls in 
a saucer of custard. 

FLOATING ISLAND—Various cold sweets go 
by the name. (/)-A small sponge cake spread with 
jelly, floating in boiled custard. (^)-A jelly cake or 
sponge cake floating in a bowl of cream flavored 
with wine. (j)-Spoonfuls of whipped white of egg 
dropped on the surface of a dish of custard, baked 
long enough to slightly color. (^-Spoonfuls of 
whipped whites, sweetened, poached in boilng milk, 
served in a dish of cold custard. (y)-Hollow merin¬ 
gues or macaroons served floating in cream flavored 
with wine. 

FLOUNDERS—A common and well known flat 
fish found at the mouth of rivers, near the sea; good 
to cut across and fry; is sometimes made to repre¬ 
sent the sole; being skinned and filleted. Floun¬ 
ders, White Wine Sauce—Two flounders skinned 
on the dark side, scraped on white side, stewed 20 
minutes in white wine, water, butter, salt, pepper; 
taken up, sauce thickened with flour. Floun¬ 
ders a la Jules Janin —Two flounders, dark side 
skinned, heads removed, slit down back and bone 
taken out; incision filled with fish forcemeat, baked 
with sherry and oyster liquor, sauce made of pan 
liquor and espagnole with butter and lemon; gar¬ 
nish of oysters and mushrooms. 

FLOUR—A barrel of good flour should make 
from 270 to 2S5 five-cent loaves. Many bakers blend 
four barrels, as two Minnesota springs and two In¬ 
diana winters, before they get the right alloy. 

FLUKE—A northern sea-fish, found in Canadian 
markets; a flounder. 









THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


319 


FOI 

FOIE-GRAS—Fat liver; especially designating 
the livers of fat geese; a comestible of great prom¬ 
inence on all sides of French cookery; but, as in the 
case of high-flavored cheese, herbs, spices, curry, 
etc., the taste for the preparations of foies-gras has 
to be acquired, and there is but a limited apprecia¬ 
tion of it here. “The goose is a bird that, after it 
is dead, constantly thrusts itself on the stranger’s 
attention in Austria. Its apparition is frequent on 
the tables and hotels at Vienna, and it reappears 
more frequently as you descend the Danube. It is 
the most chosen viand at Buda-Pesth. Here it 
achieves its apotheosis. But it is not so much to the 
bird itself as to that important organ, its liver, that 
I desire to direct attention. The local commerce in 
this delicacy is considerable. On certain streets the 
attention of the pedestrian is attracted by the coun¬ 
terfeit presentment of a goose, dead and cooked, be¬ 
side which is a painted object so nearly like that he 
is aware it is the liver of the deceased bird. This 
sign indicates a shop whose sole business is to sell 
roasted goose cut in pieces, goose livers and a sort 
of biscuit made of chopped goose and flour. Here 
is a temptation to those who are fond of pate de 
foie-gras. On entering, the dealer is discovered 
standing behind a huge tray filled with livers ar¬ 
ranged in rows, armed with a fork resembling Nep¬ 
tune’s trident. He passes the trident mystically 
over the livers and names the prices—20 kreutzers, 
25 kreutzers, 30, 40, 50 kreutzers, the latter being 
from giant birds and weighing nearly a pound. 
You take one of the smallest as a starter, and a bis¬ 
cuit, and, adjourning to a neighboring wine-shop, 
properly adjust your digestive apparatus to the unc¬ 
tuous viand with a ‘fourth’ of white Hungarian 
wine. No bad result follows, as with the artificially 
fattened livers that cost their weight in gold in 
America. Your digestion continues excellent. What 
is the effect? The next day yoirtome back and buy 
a liver twice the size, take two rations of biscuit and 
wash the repast down with a ‘ half ’ of the same 
wine, and so on. As this ratio of increase cannot 
go on forever, you find yourself obliged to leave the 
town a day or two sooner than you intended, to sub¬ 
due a growing appetite, taking with you in your va¬ 
lise a few pounds of goose livers to satisfy the pangs 
of hunger and solace the regret of parting, for you 
know, when you have left the Danube you can see 
this luxury no more.” Pate de Foie-Gras —Pie 
of fat liver. “The individual who first discovered 
the real use to which Dame Nature had predestined 
the goose—that of having its liver abnormally fat¬ 
tened—reaped a fortune from his penetration and his 
ingenuity. His name was Close, and he was chef 
de cuisine to Marshal de Coutades, Governor of 
Strasburg; hence the association of that town with 
pate de foie-gras. The idea occurred to him one 
day that he would make a pie from the livers of some 
extremely fat geese which were hanging in the 
larder; and the pie being made, the Marshal was de¬ 
lighted, and at once gave an order that henceforth 


FON 

the dish was to be included in the daily dinner, and 
this was done so long as the Marshal was Governor. 
De Coutades, however, was displaced, and his suc¬ 
cessor was a Spartan, who believed in hard, black 
bread and coarse broth, and voted all luxuries as 
sinful. Under the altered circumstances the chef 
Close resigned. He then comforted himself by 
marrying a wealthy Strasburg widow, opened a pas¬ 
try-cook’s establishment, and made the pate de foie- 
gras his specialty. Everybody who tasted it was 
loud in its praise, and the lucky cook made a rapid 
fortune, and was, of course, the initiator of a big 
trade. Other makers, who followed in his wake, 
mixed truffles in their livers, much to the satisfaction 
of epicures.” Pate de Foie-Gras —Paste of fat 
livers. Such as comes from Strasburg in jars. It is 
made by cooking the fat goose or duck livers with 
bacon, wine and aromatics, pounding it through a 
seive, adding cut truffles to it, potting it like potted 
meats. It is used in cookery to line pies made of 
birds or any game, the boned birds being then 
placed upon it alone with mushrooms and other sea¬ 
sonings, and the intestices in some styles are filled 
in either with the same pate de fcie-gras , or, raw 
foies-gras, or goose livers, such as the pies are made 
of are put in as they are, without cutting or mincing. 
Imitation Pate de Foie-Gras— Calf’s liver and 
bacon, shallots, aromatics, wine; slowly cooked for 
several hours in a slack oven, pounded, rubbed 
through a seive. Foie-Gras Sandwiches— “Foie- 
gras makes a very good sandwich for luncheon 
purposes, if the public could be gradually brought 
to like it. The principal difficulty in some of these 
innovations or novel business uses for well-known 
old culinary recipes, is to get the public to under¬ 
stand or have sufficient confidence to try them.” 
Coquilles de FoiE-GRAS-Same as scalloped dishes; 
made by placing half a terrine (jar) of foie-gras in 
a saucepan with half as much cooked mushrooms or 
truffles; all cut in small dice; sauce added; put into 
silver or other scallop shells; breadcrumbs on top; 
baked in a pan with little water under till top is 
browned. Aspic de Foie-Gras— Squares or cubes 
of foie-gras in aspic jelly. Croustades de Foie- 
Gras — Fried bread-shapes filled with dice-cut 
goose livers in rich wine gravy. Small Rolls 
with Foie-Gras- Small rolls baked for the pur¬ 
pose, quite round, hollowed out, and pate de foie- 
gras filled in; for ball suppers and lunches. 

FOND (Fr.)—Bottom; foot. Fonds d’Arti- 
chauts —Artichoke bottoms. Fond du Lac —Foot 
of the lake. 

FONDU (Fr.)— Melted. BuERREFoNDU-Melted 
butter. 

FONDUE (Fr.) — A dish of cheese and eggs, 
scrambled together with butter in a frying pan. 

FONDANT—Cream fondant; soft, white candy 
made by boiling sugar to the ball; then working it 
back and forth on a marble slab with a paddle until 
perfectly white. Used for making all the bon-bons. 







320 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


FOR 

such as chocolate creams, walnut creams, date 
creams, etc., and, softened by heat, it is used to ice 
cakes, being the best icing for that purpose. 

FORCEMEAT — The various compounds used 
to stuff fowls, fish, pigs, tomatoes, egg plants, let¬ 
tuce, etc. Some forcemeats are composed princi¬ 
pally of chopped veal and bacon with herbs and 
seasonings, some of finely pounded chicken breasts 
bread-crumbs, butter, yolks, etc. Fish forcemeat 
is pounded fish, eggs, butter, and flavorings. Force¬ 
meat for egg plants, cucumbers and tomatoes con¬ 
sist of the removed interiors mixed with minced 
onions, bread-crumbs, suet or butter. 

FOUETTEE (Fr.)—Whipped, whisked. Creme 
Fouettee —Whipped cream. Sauce Fouettee 
Pudding sauce of wine, sugar and eggs whipped to 
froth. Gelee Fouettee —Russian jelly, or wine 
jell}% whipped while cooling till white and spongy. 

FRAIS (Fr.) —Fresh. Beurre Frais — Fresh 
butter. 

FRAISES (Fr.)—Strawberries. 

FRAMBOISES (Fr.)—Raspberries. 

FRANCAISE (a /a )—In French style. 

FRANCATELLI, CHARLES ELME — An 
English chef, author of an important culinary work. 
He was a pupil of Careme and saw that great artist 
deriving a large income as well as much fame from 
his published cook books, which were, however, all 
in French, and he took those books and from them 
and his own practical experience he deduced an 
Anglo-French system, becoming the interpreter of 
French culinary art to the English, and giving the 
country a new set of polished culinary terms to take 
the place of the old homely nomenclature of the 
kitchen, which had prevailed up to that time. 
Among the faults of his really great work may be 
instanced the complicated nature of its directions 
and the endless accessories to each principal dish, 
leading the mind of the would-be learner off to a 
bewildering number of preparatory processes and 
causing him to give up the attempt in despair; its 
studied avoidance of anything savoring of a simple 
explanation; its nursing of mystery and use of ob¬ 
scure language; its covering up of old, already well- 
known and popular dishes with their foreign names, 
as if to make them appear like new things and pre¬ 
vent their immediate discovery, and its inculcation 
of extravagance and profusion. This book seems 
to have passed immediately out of Francatelli’s 
possession and became the very valuable property 
of the publishers, for the book was favored by the 
ar'stocracy, it complimented many of its members, 
and sold well. The greatest profit of all, probably, 
has been realized by its American re-publishers, 
who have advertised it frantically and reaped rich 
returns. This, of course, was of no benefit to either 
Francatelli or his family. Of Francatelli himself 
it is scarcely possible to find any printed particulars. 
He was at one time chef to the Reform Club, chef to 


FRI 

the Queen, chef at the St. James Hotel, Piccadilly, 
London, manager of the Free Masons’ Tavern, 
London. He died about 1S70. A London hotel, 
advertising in 1886, among other attractions an¬ 
nounced that the services of Mr. Francatelli had 
been secured as chef. A London journal, noticing 
the ruse, hastened to proclaim that it was a son of 
the great Francatelli who had been engaged. About 
the same tune an appeal for charity appeared in the 
London trade papers in behalf of Francatelli’s 
daughter, who was described as being in a very 
destitute condition, and the smallest contributions 
of those who desired to lend a helping hand would 
be thankfully received. 

FRANGIPANE—Pastry cream or custard, such 
as is used to fill cream puffs and eclairs; made of 
1 qt. milk, 6 oz. sugar, 4 oz. flour, 2 oz. butter, 6 
yolks, boiled, flavored. Can be much varied, mixed 
with whipped cream, with browned butter, with 
orange or lemon pulp or syrup for cream pies, tarts, 
fanchonettes, cheese-cakes, with chocolate, with 
coffee, cocoanut, almond paste, etc. When made 
stiff enough and the whites whipped firm and stirred 
in, it is baked as souffles of all flavors, and either in 
one large mould or in small souffle cases; it puffs up 
in the oven, and the souffles must be served as soon 
as done. 

FRANGIPANI PUDDING—A well-made bread 
pudding is now called a Frangipani pudding, after 
a powerful Roman family, so called from their be¬ 
nevolent distribution of bread during a famine. 

FRAPPE (Fr.) — Semi-frozen. (See carafes 

fraffees , champagne frappee.') 

FRENCH BEANS—English name for string 
or snap beans. 

FRENCH DRESSING—Indefinite; any salad 
dressing; yolk of egg, oil, mustard, cayenne, sait; 
mixed by stirring in a soup plate or bowl. 

FRENCH SAUCE FOR OYSTERS—A cruet 
sauce made of 2 minced shallots steeped in 4 table¬ 
spoons lime juice, salt and crushed pepper corns, 
for 6 hours; lime juice strained off and little tarragon 
vinegar added. 

FRENCH ROLLS—Indefinite; any good quality 
hot rolls; pocket book shaped rolls, split rolls, 
crusty cleft rolls, or tall, close shaped bakery rolls. 

FRENCH BREAD—Indefinite. The bread now 
called French is in very long loaves of one thickness 
from end to end. At some Paris restaurants the 
bakers leave loaves daily that are from one to two 
yards long. The hotel method is to have special 
pans made of Russia iron which are 5 or 6 narrow 
moulds all in one piece. They are in the common 
eaves-trough tin spout shape, about 3 inches across 
and iS inches long. The ordinary bread dough 
baked in these makes the favorite crusty cylinder¬ 
shaped loaf for the dinner table. 

FRIANTINE (Fr.)—Tit-bit. Friantines aux 
IIuitres —Bouchees of oysters; small patties. 






TIIE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


321 


FRI 

FRIED CAKES—Domestic name for crullers, 
doughnuts or “Jersey wonders.” 

FRIED PIES—Domestic name for rissoles, ris- 
solettes, kromeskies, or anything made of paste, 
folded and inclosing fruit or jelly. 

FRICASSEE—Common name in general use for 
a stew without special characteristics further than 
the division of white fricassee or brown. Originally 
it meant a fry with a sauce. {See Frogs .) 

FRICANDEAU — A larded cushion of veal, 
braised, or browned in the oven; also an imitation 
of the same, made of a mixture of cooked and raw 
meat well seasoned, made up so as to be served in 
broad slices. Fricanoeau of Sturgeon— Pieces 
of sturgeon about 5 inches thick, skinned and larded 
with bacon; laid larded side downwards in a stew- 
pan with bacon, and fried till the larding is brown. 
Taken up, put in a baking dish with mushrooms, 
moistened with essence of ham or brown sauce 
with minced ham and onions; the larded side up¬ 
wards, baked for an hour. 

FRICANDELLES—A mixture of chopped meat 
either cooked or raw or mixed, with some fat and 
bread-crumbs and an egg, seasoned, made into pats 
and fried. 

FRITOT (Fr.)—The original fricassee; chicken 
cut into joints, floured, fried, served with cream 
sauce. Fritot de Poui.et aux Tomates —The 
chicken cut up, steeped in oil with onions, floured, 
fried; tomato sauce. 

FRITTO (It.)—A fry or a fritter; same as fritot. 

FRITTO MISTO (It.)—Mixed fry. {See Italian 
cookery.') 

FRITTER—Something inclosed in a flour batter 
and fried by immersion in hot fat. F ruit F rxtters 
— Slices or quarters of large fruit, spoonfuls of 
berries, dipped in batter, taken up with a spoon and 
dropped into frying fat. Queen Fritters —Puffs 
or hollow fritters made of same mixture as cream 
puffs, fried instead of baked. Beignets Souffles 
—Same as queen fritters. Spanish Puffs —A vari¬ 
ation of queen fritters, containing a little sugar and 
vanilla in the batter, same mixture as for eclairs; 
fried instead of baked. {See beignets , corn fritters , 
of pies, parsnip, creme frite, queen , etc.) 

FROGS—The frog is one of the regular kinds of 
meat now kept in stock in all good restaurants dur¬ 
ing the season, which is fall and winter. The legs 
are eaten of two kinds or more: the small green 
marsh frog, which is supposed to be the better, and 
the large bull frog, which attains to the size of a 
squirrel in the south. In the course of business it is 
found that the larger frog’s legs have the readiest 
sale; they resemble chicken in appearance and taste. 
From 4 to 6 pairs of legs of the large sort is a res¬ 
taurant portion—12 to 18 pairs of the small. Frogs 
are caught with a rod and line. A bait of grub or 
snail being tied to the line instead of a hook, it is 
trailed along the surface, and the frog springs and 


FRO 

swallows it. They are caught also by shooting with 
an arrow attached to a string, and in nets drawn 
along the margin of the pond. When caught, they 
are skinned; the body is thrown away; the legs with 
enough of the spine to hold the two together are re¬ 
served for cooking. In the New Orleans markets, 
however, may be seen frogs of the very largest size 
exhibited for sale alive in cages, where they are ev¬ 
idently fed and fattened for market. At the same 
stalls may be seen frogs skinned and hung up in 
pairs, looking like white-meated squirrels of the me¬ 
dium size, and not the legs alone, but the entire 
body, giving evidence that the entire frog is es¬ 
teemed eatable by some customers at least. Fric¬ 
assee of Frogs— The feet chopped off, the legs are 
held in convenient shape by thrusting one stump 
into the meat of the other leg, steeped an hour in 
water containing vinegar; washed and placed in a 
saucepan with onion, carrot, celery, a clove, herbs, 
pepper, salt, and water to cover; stewed about % of 
an hour. The frogs taken up, the broth strained 
and thickened with flour and butter; finished with 
yolks and cream, not boiled; butter, lemon juice and 
parsley. Fried Frogs a l’Americaine —Frog's 
legs steeped for an hour in lemon juice, salt and 
pepper; wiped dry; floured, egged, breaded, fried; 
dished on a napkin with fried parsley and lemons. 
Grenouilles a la Villeroy —Frogs cooked as 
for fricassee, mashed to a paste with Allemande 
sauce; worked up like croquettes; breaded; fried. 
Frog Soup —Made of 2 quarts good, seasoned veal- 
broth and hind-quarters of 3 doz. small frogs cooked 
in it; frogs taken up, mashed to a paste with bread¬ 
crumbs; puree strained back into the soup; yolks of 
eggs to thicken. Os de Grenouilles — Frogs’ 
bones; name of a sweet cracker sold in Paris. 

FROM AGE (Fr.)—Cheese. Fromage de Brie- 
Brie cheese. Beignets de Fromage —Cheese 
fritters. 

FROMAGE DE COCHON—Head cheese; a dish 
very popular in France;made by taking the skin off 
a pig’s head in one piece, taking the meat from the 
bone and cutting it up with tongue, ears, some chit¬ 
terlings, herbs, seasonings; all sewn up in the skin 
of the head, boiled 3 hours, pressed into a mould 
and baked a short time; eaten cold. 

FROMAGE D’lTALIE — Italian cheese, but 
also the name of a kind of liver cheese reputed to 
have been a favorite with Louis XI. Made of 5 lbs. 
liver, 1 lb. lean pork, lb. fat pork, all minced; 
pepper, salt, shallots, thyme nutmeg. Placed in an 
earthen dish lined with shavings of bacon, wine to 
moisten, bay leaves and bacon on top, baked three 
hours, eaten cold. 

FROST-FISH—American small fish, plentiful 
only in winter; cooked by rolling in flour and fry¬ 
ing like whitebait or small trout. 

FROSTING—Domestic name for meringue or 
icing of cakes. {See meringue.) Frosted Fruits 
—Cherries, currants, etc., dipped in white of egg 





322 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


FRU 

and then in powdered sugar. Frost Work —For 
pedestals, cake stands, etc., is done by sprinkling 
with diamond powder, from the paint shops, on a 
wet surface; for scenery it is done with ground 
glass. 

FRUITS (Fr.)—Fruits. The same in both lan¬ 
guages. 

FRUIT CAKE—Various kinds and grades of 
cakes containing raisins, currants and citron peel. 
Christmas Fruit Cake —Made of i lb. each butter, 
sugar, eggs, raisins, 2 ]/ 2 lbs. flour, 2 lbs. currants, 
y 2 lb. citron, nutmeg, spice, 1 cup milk; mixed like 
pound cake, baked in moulds. ( See Dundee cake.) 
Fruit Cake—1 cup butter, 2 cups sugar, y 2 cup 
syrup, 5 eggs, 2 cups flour, 3 teaspoons baking 
powder, 1 cup each citron, raisins, currants. 

FRUIT PUDDING—Commonly understood to 
mean plum pudding. Christmas Pudding —Made 
of 2 lbs. bread-crumbs, 1 lb. each suet and raisins, 
iJ4 lbs. currants, y, lb. sultanas, y lb. citron, y lb. 
sugar, 2 tablespoons flour, 4 eggs, 2 cups milk, 1 
nutmeg, brandy, spice; boiled 6 or 8 hours. 

FUMET (Fr.)—Essence of game; made by fry¬ 
ing limbs, bones, carcasses of game in butter with 
shallots and spices till browned, then stewing with 
wine and stock, straining and condensing by boil¬ 
ing down. Used for adding to game sauces. 

FUNGI—See agaric, cepe, champignon, morel, 
mushroom, oronge, truffle. 

FURMETY — English, from Latin frumenti. 
Wheat boiled in water until soft, milk and currants 
added. Whole wheat porridge. 

FUSTIC—Venice sumach; a dry wood employed 
to produce yellow colors. 

ii. 

GALANTINE—A fowl or other kind of meat, 
stuffed, boiled, pressed in a mould, decorated, eaten 
cold. Galantine de Dinde —Boned (or boneless) 
turkey. A slit is cut down the back, the meat care¬ 
fully cut from the carcass, laid out flat and seasoned. 
A filling of either another turkey or chicken, or 
veal forcemeat or sausage placed upon it, the sides 
drawn up to the original form, sewn, bound up in a 
cloth, boiled 3 hours, in stock seasoned, pressed hot. 
into shape; taken out of the cloth when cold. It is 
then a boned turkey only; becomes a galantine or 
ornamental dish when decorated by being placed in 
a larger mould, aspie jelly poured around, the 
whole turned out when cold and garnished in various 
ways. Galantine de Poularde— Boned chicken 
in jelly. Galantine de Veau— The fore-quarter 
of veal, boned, stuffed, rolled, boiled in stock, 
pressed into a long mould, decorated with jelly, 
shapes of yolk and white of eggs, beets, lemons, 
etc. Sliced cold and served with jelly. Galantine J 
de Cochon —Galantine is occasionally made of 
sucking pig, and is very popular in France. The 
pig must be carefully boned, all but the head and 


GAM 

feet. A sufficient quantity of veal, of fat unsmoked 
bacon, and of bread panada must be chopped and 
pounded to make enough forcemeat to stuff the pig 
in the proportion of one part bacon, two panada, 
and three of veal, seasoned with a teaspoonful of 
onion juice and two of powdered sage. Galantines 
of small birds are called hallo tines. 

GALETTE—A plain shortcake, not sweet, but 
sometimes sugared over the surface. Same as Ga¬ 
teau de Plomh. 

GALLINO RENNET—It is said that the rough 
skin which lines the gizzards of fowls will curdle 
milk for making cheese and cheese cakes as well as 
calf’s rennet. The skin is salted and then dried, and 
a piece steeped in water for 8 hours makes the ren¬ 
net; 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls to be mixed with the milk. 

GALOPIN—Galopin is a local term for a half¬ 
bottle of wine. In Paris, the word means a “little 
rascal,” affectionately used. 

GAME—Nearly all game is better for being kept, 
quails, snipe and woodcock being the exceptions. 
It has been the rule to hang some game birds by the 
middle feather of the tail and cook the bird when it 
fell. When game becomes a little too high, per¬ 
manganate of potash will purify it from the taint, 
if carefully employed. To keep game however, a 
better way is to draw it as soon as it arrives; rinse 
with soda and water, then with pure cold water; 
wipe dry and rub them lightly with fine salt and 
pepper. Put a piece of charcoal inside each bird; 
hang in a cool, dark place, with a cloth thrown over 
them. Another way strongly recommended is to 
fill the birds with oats or other dry grain and bury 
them in grain. Probably, however, cold storage is 
the best way of all to preserve game as well as other 
meats. Old Game —“ People will say: ‘What is to 
be done with old game?’ To that question I will 
simply answer: ‘ Do anything but roast it.’ An old 
hare or an old rabbit may be turned to account by 
making it into soup, puree, stew, civet, quenelle, or 
pie. Of course, it will take a longer time to cook 
than if the game were young; but as compensation 
you will find more substance and more flavor in the 
result. An old bird may be boiled, braized, or made 
into fricassee, soup, forcemeat, and puree. Clear 
consomme dugibier aux quern lies is a very nutritious 
soup. It is made with carcasses and bones of old 
game, the flesh of which has been pounded to make 
the quenelles that are used as a garnish to the soup. 
In France, old partridges are mostly used in the 
form of perdrix aux choux. They are braised with 
cabbage, bacon and sausages until tender. In Ger¬ 
many they substitute sauerkraut for the fresh cab¬ 
bage. Hares, rabbits, and large birds, such as phea¬ 
sants, blackcock, etc., require to be thoroughly 
cooked; but small birds, such as partridges, grouse> 
woodcocks, snipe, quails, etc., ought to be eaten a 
iittle underdone, when they will be more appreciated 
by the real epicure. Small game is generally dished 
on toast; bread-sauce is always served with phea- 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


323 


GAM 

sants, partridges, grouse, and blackgame; with wild 
fowl in general, quartered lemons are handed 
round, and currant-jelly is sent up with roast hare. 
Choice-Bits— 

“ If the partridge had but the woodcock’s thigh, 
He’d be the best bird that ever did fly; 

If the woodcock had but the partridge’s breast, 
He’d be the best bird that ever was dressed.” 

Small Game — “All small game-birds should be 
roasted in jackets made of very thin slices of salt 
pork or bacon. Many persons do not like the taste 
of smoked meats; the pork is therefore much better 
to use, unless by special order.” Gamy Hints— 
“ Game (birds) should be hung by the neck, and not 
by the feet, as is commonly done. Hares should be 
dressed when blood drops from the nose. The fishy 
flavor of wild-flowl may be prevented by first boil¬ 
ing them in water in which are salt and onions. 
Game or wild-fowl for two or three are, however, 
never better than when broiled.” Weights and 
Time —“The average weight of grouse, partridges, 
iind pheasants, when prepared for the spit, is as fol¬ 
lows: Grouse, 16 oz.; partridge, 24 lb.; pheasant 
(on the average), 2)4 lbs. The following are the va¬ 
rious lengths of time which game requires for cook¬ 
ing, a point : Cock pheasant, three quarters of an 
hour; hen, twenty-five minutes; half-grown bird, a 
quarter of an hour; hare, one hour and a half; wood¬ 
cock, half an hour; snipe, twenty minutes; quail, 
twenty minutes; golden plover, twenty minutes; teal, 
Sl quarter of an hour; capercailzie, an hour and a 
quarter; and wild goose, an hour.” The Natural 
Flavor —“‘In the preparation of game,’ wrote re¬ 
cently an eminent Parisian chef, ‘abstain from too 
much seasoning. Do not use spicy herbs of any 
kind, and scrupulously avoid all garlic, shallot, and 
other onion-flavored vegetables. These ingredients 
destroy the delicate intrinsic savor of game.’ The 
same person states that grives —thrushes—should be 
served en couronne — i. e., in a circle, round a bouquet 
■of smallage and of autumn marguerites. Pheasants 
should be trimmed with the tail and wing-feathers, 
and be served holding a rose in their beaks.”— 
Sydney Smith on Gravy —“ It is wickedness to 
drench roast game with sauce. Sydney Smith says, 
in describing a dinner at which he was present: ‘I 
heard a lady who sat next to me say in a low, sweet 
voice: ‘No gravy, sir!’ I had never seen her before, 
but I turned suddenly round and said: ‘Madam, I 
have been looking for a person who disliked gravy 
all my life; let us swear eternal friendship.’ She 
jooked astonished, but took the oath, and what is 
better, kept it,” Game with Chestnuts— Phea¬ 
sants, partridges, quails, grouse, and plovers may 
all be cooked by the following directions, and they 
will be found to be very nice: A quart of large 
chestnuts are boiled and mashed, one-half of it mixed 
with 3 oz. butter, i cup cracker-dust, salt, pepper, 
chopped parsley. Birds stuffed with it, wrapped in 
thin slices of cooked ham, then in vineleaves tied on 
them; baked; leaves and ham removed, chestnut- 


GAM 

sauce made witli remainder of puree added to gravy 
made of the livers, etc. Northumberland Game¬ 
te —“This ducal dish, for which Alnwick Castle 
has been for centuries famed, is made thus: A good 
raised pie-crust is made, such as one would prepare 
for a large batch of pork-pies, or raised pies. The 
crust is firm, yet mellow, and will not be like some 
Melton (?) pies I know (nothing melting about 
them), which require a hatchet to break them. 
I hese cases are quite monsters. The inside consists 
of 24 pigeons cooked and boned, the flesh pounded 
in a mortar with the gravy in which they were 
stewed added; then 24 fowls served in the same way; 
a layer of fine sausage-meat may be put round the 
pigeons, which are formed into a long roll, then the 
fowls, next slices of ham, then boned rabbit, phea¬ 
sants, partridge, hare, tongue in slices, turkey-flesh, 
until all is in one huge mass, then the bones of ham 
shanks, couple of cows’ heels, or a knuckle of veal 
are stewed for hours. The meats are laid into the 
case; the liquor, when nearly cold and freed from 
grease, is poured in ; the cover put on the pie; baked, 
then glazed with egg, and the ornaments put on. 
These will be popular on smaller scales, and to the 
restaurateur they are valuable as they use up odds 
and ends of game, etc., which whilst being per¬ 
fectly good are not exactly presentable at table, and 
too good for the stockpot, their ultimate destina¬ 
tion.” Richard II Game-Pie— “This recipe is to 
be found in the books of the Salters’ Company, and 
having been tested by their cook, was found to pro¬ 
duce an excellent pie; which proves that our ances¬ 
tors excelled in cookery more than four centuries 
and a half ago. It is a recipe for making a game-pie 
for Christmas in the reign of Richard II. Take a 
pheasant, a hare, a capon, two partridges, two pig¬ 
eons, and two rabbits; bone them and put them into 
paste the shape of a bird, with the livers and hearts, 
two mutton kidneys, forcemeats and eggballs, sea¬ 
soning, spice, ketchup, and pickled mushrooms; 
filled up with gravy made from the various bones.” 
Little Game Pies —Raised-pie cases 3 or 4 inches 
diameter are made and baked with a filling of flour 
to keep them in shape; when done, the flour brushed 
out, and cold galantines of game and imitation foie- 
gras cut small and mixed filled in, and aspic jelly 
poured in to level up; lids separately baked put on 
and decorated. Thatcher House Game Pie [spec¬ 
ialty]—Is made in the following manner: Rub the 
inside of a deep dish with two ounces of fresh butter 
and'spread over it some vermicelli. Then line the 
dish with puff paste; have ready some birds seasoned 
with powdered nutmeg and a little salt and pepper; 
stuff them with oysters or mushrooms chopped fine; 
place them in the puff-paste lined dish with then- 
breasts downward. Add some gravy of roast veal 
or poultry (it may be cold gravy saved over from a 
recent roast), and cover the pie with a lid of puffy 
paste. Bake it in a moderate oven; and when done, 
turn it out carefully upon a dish and send it to the 
table. The vermicelli, which was originally at the 








324 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


GAM 

bottom, will then be at the top, covering the paste 
like thatch upon a roof. Trim off the layers so as to 
look neat. Puree-of-Game Soup — The game is 
boiled in stock or water with carrots, onions, celery 
and herbs; when tender, the meat mashed, rubbed 
through a strainer, mixed with bread-crumbs, and 
the stock strained to it. Served with croutons of 
fried bread. {See Grouse and other hind*.) 

GAMMON OF BACON—A leg of salt pork. 
English corruption of the French jamhon , ham. 

GARBURE—“ I remember some time ago six 
American gentlemen from New York came to Big- 
non’s and said: ‘Now, Joseph, we want a thor¬ 
oughly good dinner.’ I asked them what they 
wanted, and they insisted on leaving it to me. Well, 
this is what I gave them: First a potage garbure 
then pommesgeorgette / next a quail for each guest. 
And would you believe that during their stay in 
Paris they ordered that same dinner of garbure, 
pommesgeorgette and roast no less than eight times, 
of which four times running?” Garbure is some¬ 
thing which is served with soup rather than the soup 
itself; it is crust of bread baked in a dish of fat broth; 
any sort of vegetable may be prepared and poured 
over the baked but softened bread, and the real soup 
is served separately. It is eaten by each person tak¬ 
ing a spoonful of the bread from the baking dish, 
its top-dressing of vegetable with it, and adding a 
ladleful of soup to it in the soup plate. In the in¬ 
stance above mentioned the baked bread had a dress¬ 
ing of parmesan cheese, and the soup served with it 
wasjulienne. Garbure with Cabbage —Cabbages 
stewed with small sausages and bits of bacon; top- 
crust of rolls baked in a dish with enough beef-broth 
to moisten; the cabbage served on the bread; beef- 
broth or othqr soup by the side. Garbure with 
CucuMBERS-Cucumbers in inch-lengths, parboiled, 
then fried in butter, then stewed, served on top of 
crusts baked in broth; a vegetable-soup in another 
tureen. Garbure a la CLERMONT-Onions in rings 
fried to a yellow color, then stewed in broth, poured 
over the baked crusts; beef-broth served in another 
tureen. Garbure a la Freneuse— Turnips cut in 
pieces, fried, then stewed, poured over the baked 
crusts; beef-broth served separately. 

GARGANTUA—Rabelais, a French humorous 
satirist of the sixteenth century, describes the do¬ 
ings of Gargantua, who ate cattle as common people 
eat chickens and was in all a wonderful glutton; 
hence the allusions occasionally to Gargatituan 
Feasts, meaning something extraordinarily large, 
and Garga 7 ituan Feeders, meaning great eaters. 
“The following is a list of the hors d’oeuvres served 
at a Gargantuan repast: Caviare ; bontargues (saus¬ 
ages made out of caviare); beurre frays (fresh but¬ 
ter); purees de poys (puree of peas); espinars (spi 
nach); aratis blans boufflz, arans sors (fresh and 
pickled herrings); sardines, anchois, tonnine (tunny); 
caules emb' olif (cabbage preserved in oil); saulgre- 
tiees de fibres (Macedoine of beans); sallades cent 


GAS 

diversites (a hundred different salads), of which are 
mentioned cress, hops, samphire, fnushrooms, as¬ 
paragus, and honey-suckle salad; pickled salmon;, 
salted eels; huytres en escalies (oysters in their 
shells.) This is from a French sixteenth-century 
menu. It seems to me that caterers in quest of nov¬ 
elties for the construction of their menus might do- 
worse than consult Master Rabelais.” 

GARFISH—A river-fish destructive to other 
fishes, generally thrown away as worthless when 
caught. It is said the strong oily taste of this fish is 
no deeper than its skin, and after skinning and 
steeping in water with vinegar and salt it is good 
cooked in the same ways as eels. 

GARLIC—A bulb like an onion; useful for fla¬ 
voring if used with great care. Its taste, if strong,, 
is very generally objected to by unaccustomed 
palates, though it is eaten raw with bread, the same 
as onions, by people of southern Europe. It can be 
bought of Italian and Spanish gardeners or pro¬ 
vision dealers. A Clove of Garlic— Means one 
of the natural divisions of the bulb, not a head of 
garlic. Generally it is sufficient to rub the salad 
dish with a slice of garlic, or to rub garlic on a crust 
of bread and stir that up in the salad, or in a stew 
or soup. 

GARNISH—A garnish is a ragout or mixture of 
various tasty morsels in rich sauce, and as the whole 
is made up of several parts necessity has prompted 
the naming of many of the garnishes; thus a Rich¬ 
elieu garnish or a Financiere garnish always mean 
the same things respectively without going into the 
detail of their composition, and a piece of meat or 
a fowl served with either garnish in the dish is 
named accordingly: a la Financiere or a la Riche¬ 
lieu. The misfortune of the case is that garnishes 
and names are too numerous and the motive is too- 
small for anybody to learn more than about half a 
dozen characteristic compounds. 

GARNISH—To garnish or decorate a dish with 
something to enhance its attractiveness, such as the- 
bordering a salad with capers, parsley, beets or 
lemons. 

GARNISH—Culinary expression meaning to fill 
up, as when a shell of paste has been baked for a 
pate the directions run to garnish the pie case with 
fat livers and boned birds; or to garnish a border of 
rice by filling it up with the sweetbreads prepared 
for the purpose. 

GARUM—One of the two principal sauces used 
by the ancient Romans, often mentioned by old 
authors; a kind of soy, “the Romans knew and ap¬ 
preciated the appetising charms of the oyster, albeit, 
it was served up with garum, a sauce made from 
putrid fish which would disgust a modern gourmet- 

GASPACHO —See Spanish Cookery. 

GASTRONOMY—The science of the stomach- 
The knowledge of what, how, and when to eat. 

GASTRONOMER—One who secures the utmost 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


325 


GAT 

enjoyment of the pleasures of taste within the limi¬ 
tations of the laws of health. 

GATEAU—(Fr.)—Cake. The forms of gateaux 
are as various as the forms of cakes. The term 
means almost anything from a cream pie to an orna¬ 
mented tall cake for a party. Gateau Baba a la 
Montmorency— A rich 3'east-raised cake baked in 
an ordinary tube cake mould, the top crust cut off 
and kirsch syrup poured into the cake; apricot jam 
spread thinly over, icing over that; made cold. 
When served the hollow tilled with red currant ice 
cream and candied cherries. Gateau Mazarin— 
A baba or yeast-raised cake, rich with butter and 
e ggs, but without sugar, baked in a plain mould 
lined with almonds, split like a short-cake, when 
done, and thick rum pudding sauce, containing 
chopped citron and butter poured on both halves. 
The two saturated halves are then placed together 
and the cake served hot on a folded napkin. Suita¬ 
ble for ball suppers and large parties. Gateau 
Genoise aux Apricots —A jelly cake 6 or S inches 
high, half of it cut out from the center to form a 
well in the middle of the cake. Entire surface 
spread with apricot jam and decorated, served with 
apricot compote and whipped cream in the center. 
Gateau de Am Andes a la Parisienne —A sheet 
of puff paste with raised edges, filled with almond 
custard, covered with a thin top crust, egged over, 
sugared, baked. Gateau a la D’Artois— Same as 
the preceding if made with jam or marmalade. 
Gateau de Plomb —A plain rich shortcake, made 
of 1 lb. flour, ^ lb. butter, 1 cup cream, 1 spoonful 
sugar, salt, egged over, baked like a large plain bis¬ 
cuit; eaten with butter and fruit. Gateau Napol- 
itaine —Almond flavored jelly cake, iced and deco¬ 
rated. Gateau a la Victoria —A light baba or 
yeast raised citron cake, served hot with almond 
custard. Gateau Saint Louis— A puff paste sheet 
with raised edges filled with almond white frangi- 
pane, chopped almonds on top, baked; similar to 
white cocoanut pie. Gateau Saint Charles— An 
almond cake baked in a mould lined with paste. 
Gateau de Riz —Rice cake. Gateau de Mille 
Feuilles —Thousand leaf pastry; jelly cake made 
of baked sheets of puff paste piled on each other 
with jelly between. Gateau Napoleon —Two 
sheets of puff paste baked thin and dry, spread be¬ 
tween with frangipane; cut in pieces to serve. Pe¬ 
tits Gateaux —Small cakes. Gateau Fauchette 
—A Paris specialty, made by removing the center 
from a freshly baked sponge cake, filling it with al¬ 
mond frangipane; turning it over on a dish, cover¬ 
ing with meringue, with granulated sugar sifted 
over the surface, and baking sufficiently to slightly 
color the outside, spotted with currant jelly; served 
on a folded napkin, hot. Gateau Reine Claude 
or Stanley —A cake hollowed in the middle, spread 
over (“masked”) with green-gage marmalade, filled 
with green-gage ice cream. ( See Ices.) Paris 
Specialty—“ Mem. : Spinach in slight quantities is 
very useful for giving a bright green color to such 


GEN 

entremets as ices and creams. It is used in this way 
for “shading” Reine Claude ice cream, which would 
otherwise have a dull color. This Reine Claude 
cream is now much used for filling Stanley cakes, as 
the new fashionable entremets in Paris is called. 
The “gateau Stanley” is the invention of Chef Lu- 
cien Chardon, and is made with baked baba dough 
soaked in almond syrup, glazed with sugar-glazing,, 
and masked as above.” 

GAUFFRE (Fr.)—Wafer; waffle. 

GELATINE—Made first by Prevost about 1735,. 
the same who took in partnership Phillippe, who 
afterwards became celebrated for his restaurant in 
Paris. It is refined glue; may be obtained by boil¬ 
ing down calves’ feet, head, ears or skin until they 
are dissolved, straining the liquor and then drying 
it on shallow dishes. The transparency of some 
kinds is due to clarifying processes. The whitish 
kind in sheets is porous through being churned 
while cooling, which makes it easier to dry, and is 
an advantage in cooking as it floats in the liquid and 
cannot burn on the bottom as the transparent kinds 
do. Gelatine is one of the expensive articles of 
hotel provision. The dearest is not necessarily the 
best. The jellies to be made have to be clarified by 
the cooks and one kind of gelatine is as good as^ 
another provided it is without flavor. If kept in a 
drug store gelatine will often acquire flavors from 
neighboring substances that render it quite worth¬ 
less. The quantity required is 1% ounces for 1 qt. 
of jelly, or 1 oz. for 1 qt. of milk or cream for blanc 
mange, but more in warm weather than in cold. 
Portable Jelly— Gelatine jelly can be made of 
double strength, then dried down to the consistency 
of gum drop candy, in small pieces or shreds, and 
kept, and when wanted to make jelly can be dis¬ 
solved in the right measure of hot water, and will 
be jelly as soon as it can be made cold enough to set. 
(See 'Jellies , Asp c, Cremes .) 

GELEE (Fr.)—Jelly. 

GELINOTTE—Guinea hen, hazel hen. 

* 

GEM PANS—American dariole moulds, made 
of iron or tin, cast or joined together in sets of 10 
or 12; made of various depths, generally hold 2 
ounces, are round, oval or scalloped. 

GEMS—American hot breads baked in gem pans. 
Corn Gems —Corn meal, milk, butter, eggs, salt, 
baking powder, and little flour, mixed thin enough 
to pour out of a pitcher; gem pans filled and baked- 
Graham Gems —The same made of Graham flour- 
There are several varieties; some sweet. Wheat 
Gems —Usually called wheat muffins, made both 
with yeast and baking bowder; there are various 
qualities. 

GENEVA BUNS—Sweet rolls made either by 
adding to light bread dough some enriching in¬ 
gredients, or with 2 lbs. flour, 1 oz. yeast, 1 cup 
warm milk, to set sponge; 2 eggs, 6 oz. sugar, 6 oz. 
melted butter worked in; made in long buns, proned. 
till quite light, baked 15 minutes, sugared over. 












326 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


GEN 

GENEVA—The term geneva, or gin, is derived 
ir om genievre , the French word for juniper-berries. 
The fruit of this tree was tried by Sylvius, a pro¬ 
fessor of Leydon, who lived in the seventeenth cen¬ 
tury, and found that it not only gave a very agreea¬ 
ble flavor, but also possessed many valuable medi¬ 
cinal properties. In consequence this liquor was 
for a considerable time sold as a medicine by the 
apothecaries, but on its excellent qualities becoming 
better known, it was made on a more extensive 
scale, and then received the name of the plant to 
which it owed its peculiar flavor. 

GENEVA WAFERS—Same as wafer jumbles, 
which run out thin in baking; can be taken up hot 
and bent around to conical shape to hold whipped 
cream; made of 4 oz. butter, 3 oz. sugar, 3 eggs, 
4 oz. flour; vanilla flavor; well beaten together, 
dropped on pans with spoon. 

GENEVA PUDDING—Rice boiled in milk, and 
puree of apples mixed together with eggs and wine, 
sugar and butter; baked; wine sauce. 

GENEVOISE (a la )—In Geneva or Swiss style, 
or with Genevoise sauce. 

GEVEVOISE SAUCE—For fish. Brown sauce 
with 2 oz. lean ham cut in pieces, a carrot, onion, 
bay leaf, 3 cloves, peppercorns, y 2 clove of garlic, 
parsley, thyme, butter; all simmered together till 
onion is tender; 1 pt. claret added; boiled down; 
espagnole or brown sauce, or butter and flour, and 
stock; salt, pepper; strained thiough a napkin by 
twisting; anchovy essence and butter beaten in. 
Brook Trout a la Genevoise— Speckled trout 
trussed with the head to the side to keep them in 
upright position, cooked in equal parts red wine and 
broth with garlic and herbs in a fish-boiler for 30 
minutes; drained and served on a folded napkin 
with Genevoise sauce, made of part of the fish-liquor, 
served separately. 

Gfi^NOISE SAUCE—For fish. Good brown 
sauce with chopped parsley, a glass of port, teaspoon 
of anchovy essence, walnut catsup, pinch of mace; 
boiled few minutes. 

GENOISE CAKE—Rich almond pound-cake of 
several grades. (/)-Made of 1 lb. each sugar, but¬ 
ter, almonds, flour, eggs, and a wine-glass of brandy. 
The sugar and eggs whisked together until thick 
and light; the almonds powdered and sifted; flour 
and butter all stirred in; baked in moulds or in thin 
sheets. (2)-Royal Genoise —A London specialty; 
made of 1 lb. sugar, 16 eggs, % lb, butter, y x lb. flour, 
y lb. ground almonds; flavored with vanilla, almond 
and lemon; sugar and eggs whisked light; butter 
warmed and stirred in with the flour and almonds; 
baked in sheets; not cut till cold. (j)-Ordinary 
Genoise —Made of same as the first above without 
almonds. Better with 2 eggs less, or 1 lb. of fionr, 
1 lb. of pulverized sugar, 1 lb. of butter, S eggs, a 
little salt, and a few drops of essence of lemon. 
•Genoise Pastry —Name given to small squares or 


GER 

shapes of genoise cake with jelly spread between, 
and pink and white icing on top; cut out of large, 
thin sheets of cake. Favorite kind for parties. 

GENOA CAKE—(/) Genoise cake with currants, 
raisins, citron and ground cinnamon mixed in; baked 
in a shallow pan; glazed with sugar and chopped al¬ 
monds, and baked to dry them. (2)-One pound but¬ 
ter, 1 lb. sugar, lbs. flour, 9 eggs, lbs. cur¬ 
rants, y 2 lb. citron; lemon flavor. 

GEODUCK —“The greatest curiosity of all at the 
dinner was, however, the geoduck. It is an im¬ 
mense clam, the largest in the world. One will fill 
a bushel-basket. They are found only in Puget 
Sound,Washington Territory. Government officials 
tried to bring one alive to the Smithsonian Institute, 
in Washington, in 18S2, for the United States Fish 
Commissioners. The specimen was boxed and taken 
by steamer to San Francisco, where it gave up the 
ghost. Its scientific name is the Glycerinus. It re¬ 
sembles a great fresh-water clam in form, color, and 
texture of shell.” There is anoth.r, an East Indian 
clam of immense size; a single one will make a meal 
for ten men. The shells are deeply and handsomely 
scolloped, and are to be seen at the shell stores. 

GERMAN COOKERY—To appreciate German 
cookery and to enjoy thoroughly some of the real 
delicacies it produces, it is necessary first to aban¬ 
don all American ideas on the fitness of things, and 
when you have succeeded in doing so get rid of the 
English and French ones as well. For a stranger 
the dinner hour in any German city is a most puzz¬ 
ling matter. He may begin a round of visits at one 
o’clock and continue them till five, finding everyone 
at dinner. For, although the most usual time is one 
or half-past, the Emperor dines at four, most of the 
government employes at half past two, and the 
wealthy class at five. The most characteristic meal 
in the southern portion of the Empire is the jause, 
which, like the English “tea,” comes betiveen din¬ 
ner and supper. The ladies ask each other to their 
apartments, drink coffee and eat kugelhupf (a spe¬ 
cies of fine pound cake with very large holes in it— 
yeast-raised kauglauj') and kipfel (little rolls in the 
shape of a horn). The men meet in the cafes and 
take similar refreshments. The customary dinner 
of the upper middle class is soup; boiled beef with 
sauce, vegetables, pickles; roast veal or poultry, 
and either salad or a pudding* on Sunday both salad 
and pudding. The favorite sauce with beef is 
horse-radish ( kren ) and onions. Your German 
friend cuts all his meat in pieces, dips each piece 
systematically into all the little vegetable or sauce 
dishes, which are grouped around, before he puts it 
in his mouth. The German states are better sup¬ 
plied with game than any other part of Europe. 
The Bohemian pheasants (faisans de Bolieme) are 
celebrated. Capercailzie and black-cock come from 
the Styrian mountains. Hares are exceedingly 
numerous; venison abounds. The vast, swampy 
reaches of the rivers afford snipe and duck-shoot- 










THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


327 


GER 

ing in abundance. Two or three times a year wild 
geese in immense flocks fly across the country and 
great uumbers are killed. Woodcocks and geli- 
nottes are brought to market from Hungary; in 
short, nowhere is the material for good living more 
plentiful or cheaper than in the German markets. 
In order to enjoy any of these, however, it is quite 
essential for the stranger to warn the headwaiter 
that the bird ordered must be brought in whole for 
the guest to do his own carving, that art being 
’Utterly unknown, at least in the public cafes, and 
method substituted for carving is a barbarous chop¬ 
ping of every bird or fowl straight across in halves 
and quarters, limbs, breast, bones, splinters, all 
mixed up together. In early summer back-hendl 
is the favorite delicacy. It is spring chicken bread- 
crumbed and fried. Next to back-hendl, the most 
universally liked dish is Wiener-Schnitzel. This is 
simply a veal cutlet breaded and fried, with slices 
of lemon around it. It is a safe thing to order al¬ 
most anywhere; you can eat it in a Bierhalle or 
large middle-class restaurant, where very little else 
would be worth having. The special forte of 
Viennese cooking lies in the sweets. The soufflets, 
puddings, tea and dinner cakes, brioches and tarts 
of Vienna are unequalled even in Paris, The way 
an Austrian cook makes a rice pudding is sufficient 
to convert even a school boy to love plain puddings. 
The variety of German sweets ( Mehlspeisen) is 
-enormous, it would fill pages to describe them. 
German Dishes —These are dishes which one 
traveler did not relish and he thought them strange, 
though they seemed good to his German entertain¬ 
ers: Cold potato salad, boiled beef and raspberry 
jam, spinach fried in butter, wine and raisin soup, 
pancakes three inches thick fried in the oil of 
Spanish onions, pork sausage fritters, raw her¬ 
rings and cucumber with treacle sauce, veal cut¬ 
lets garnished with boiled stick liquorice. Ger¬ 
man Potato Salad —The ingredients of a real 
German winter salad are cold boiled potatoes 
cut up into quite small pieces, some capers, or 
a few olives chopped up, anchovies stripped off the 
bones and cut into small pieces, and a little finely- 
chopped parsley. To these may be added beetroot and 
celery, if desired, which should also be cut up into 
•small pieces. All the ingredients to be well mixed. 
For the dressing, to the proportion of two eggs—of 
which the yolks, hard boiled, only are used—put 
one tablespoonful of salad oil, a little cayenne pep¬ 
per, salt and mustard to taste; and a small teaspoon¬ 
ful of pounded loaf sugar. When these are well 
mixed, add three tablespoonfuls of cream or good 
milk, and, lastly, stir in one tablespoonful of vin¬ 
egar. Pour the dressing over the salad just be¬ 
fore serving. German Vegetable Soup-One of the 
most nutritious and appetising soups known to the 
German gourmet. Put into a stew-pan 12 onions, 

1 turnip, and a head of cabbage, lb. of butter, 
and 1 qt. of white stock; stew till tender. Add 
another quart of stock, pulp the vegetables, and 


GER 

boil with the soup J4 an hour, stirring constantly; 
just before serving stir pt. boiling cream and 
about 20 button onions picked and boiled soft in milk 
and water. Season with salt, and thicken, if desired, 
with rice-flour worked with butter. German 
Stewed Eels —Cut in 3 inch pieces, steeped in salt 
water an hour; butter and flour fried together and 
water to make sauce of it; garlic, sage leaves, bay 
leaf, mace, cloves, Rhine wine, eels putin and sim¬ 
mered an hour. German Roast Goose —The goose 
wiped inside and filled with small whole apples, 
cored but not peeled; also a small bunch of mug- 
wort, Sewed up, salted, the goose fat spread over 
it and buttered paper; roasted in the oven 3 hours; 
gravy made in the pan. Beefsteak mxt Scjilag- 
sahne —“ I have dined and lunched at the Zum 
Kniephof since, and have been contented with the 
fare. I shall speak about its bill of fare on a futuie 
occasion, mentioning, meanwhile, that beefsteak 
mit Schlagsahne —that is, with whipped cream on it 
—is a specialty of the house. German people like 
their beefsteaks served with all kinds of curious ad¬ 
ditions, as with two poached eggs, or sardine-butter 
on the meat. The beefsteaks are always good* being 
cut from the fillet. I have not had a single tough 
beefsteak, or other piece of meat, since I have been 
here.” Kniephof Broedchen —“Another special¬ 
ty at the Zum Kniephof is th & Kniephof Broedchen, 
or sandwich. I asked for a plate of this out of 
curiosity, and found it to consist of six slices of roll, 
each differently spread, one with a caviar, two with 
sausage, one with veal, one with beef, and one with 
cheese, arranged in star-fashion round a centerpiece 
of a leaf of lettuce, some chopped cucumber, and an 
anchovy. The price of this assortment, which con¬ 
stituted a complete meal, was only 6d.” Kram- 
metsvogel —“Another not so substantial but tasty 
dish is that of Krammetsyogel, which we call the 
field-fare. This little bird, roasted and served upon 
buttered toast, is in taste by no means distant from 
the snipe, and, indeed, but for the beak, might well 
be mistaken for it. Sauerkraut accompanies the 
dish, and for one of these winter tenants of the 
fields the diner is charged during the hours of the 
mid-day meal the sum of 3d., a not high price for 
a dainty morsel.” Caraway Mayonnaise —“The 
refreshments consisted of a very well stocked cold 
buffet, from which I fetched a plate of the best roast- 
beef I have ever eaten. It was served with mayon¬ 
naise sauce, which was flavored with caraway 
seeds.” German Hotch-Potch —Neck of mut¬ 
ton broth with dried green peas and carrots and 
turnips cut small, and celery root or seed; boiled 
hours, some mutton chops added; seasonings, 
chops and soup served together. German Giblet 
Soup— Puree of white beans with some whole boiled 
beans added, and giblets cut small, stewed tender 
and mixed in. German Giblets with Apples— 
Brown giblet stew in the middle of the dish, gravy 
from them mixed with apple juice and zante cur¬ 
rents poured over; quarters of apples stewed with 






328 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


GER 

sugar and butter placed around. German Giblets 
with Pears —Goose giblets and pork chops stewed 
together; quartered pears stewed in the giblet liquor 
with cloves and sugar and served around the gib¬ 
lets in a dish. German Giblets with Turnips— 
Stewed giblets cut small, served with slices of 
stewed turnips in thick sauce, and sippets of toasted 
bread. German Toast —Canapes of toast spread 
over with minced stewed meat with its sauce, the 
meat to be stirred over the tire first, with eggs, pars¬ 
ley and seasoning; after spreading, covered with 
crumbs and browned. German Sauce —For cold 
meats, boar’s head, etc., currant jelly, juice and 
shredded rind of an orange, horseradish, sugar, 
mustard, vinegar, salad oil. The jelly to be melted 
and the rest stirred into it. German Horseradish 
Sauce —Grated horseradish and stewed apples in 
equal quantities, with vinegar and little sugar. 
Frankfort Sausages —Made of lean pork, fat ba¬ 
con, red wine to moisten, ground coriander seed, 
nutmeg, salt, pepper, boiled, smoked. Chicken 
Ivlosse —Forcemeat balls of raw chicken, suet, 
bread, eggs, parsley, seasoned, boiled in clear soup. 
Goose Liver Klosse —Forcemeat balls of minced 
liver with bread, milk, eggs, etc., to make up into a 
paste; may be either boiled in soup or fried same as 
croquettes. Herb Klosse —Bread-crumbs, grated 
cold potatoes, flour and eggs, spinach and other 
herbs parboiled, all made up into forcemeat balls, 
boiled, rolled in fried bread-crumbs, served with 
meat or alone. Potato Klosse —Potato croquei.tes. 
Potato Klosse with Sugar —Sweetened potato 
croquettes served with sugar. Klosse —Can be made 
of any kind of meat mixed with soaked biead- 
crumbs and seasoning, either boiled or fried, served 
in soup, or with meat-stews or alone; should be sent 
to table hot and light as soon as done. Mehl Sterz 
—Thick mush or porridge of oatmeal or any kind of 
meal with plenty of butter stirred in. Heidelberg 
Punch —Pieces of cucumber sliced, i lemon rind, 3 
tablespoons sugar, worked together with the back of 
a spoon; 3 tablespoons brandy, 6 of sherry, 1 bottle 
claret, 2 bottles soda water. German Honey 
Cakes —Square small cakes with citron strips and 
almonds on top, made of S oz. honey, 2 oz. butter* 
boiled together; rind of lemon, 2 oz. almonds j 
pounded nutmeg, 8 oz. flour, ]/ 2 oz. soda dissolved 
in little water. Stand till next day, rolled out thick, 
decorated, baked. German Cakes — Cookies, 
made of 1 y 2 lbs. sugar, y lb. butter, 4 eggs, 
2 lbs. flour, 1 lb. currants, nutmeg, rosewater 
to flavor. Rolled out and cut in cakes. German 
Omelet —An egg pancake, baked on both sides; 
made of 2 spoonfuls flour, 3 eggs, cup cream or 
milk, salt, pepper, nutmeg, little chopped chives 
and parsley. When the pancake is baked on both 
sides it is spread with puree of mushrooms and 
rolled up; cut in pieces, served around a center of 
vegetables in the dish. German Almond Cakes 
—Made of 1 lb. butter, 1 lb. sugar, 3 eggs, 2 lbs. 
flour, 1 gill rose •water, 8 oz. almonds, 1 teaspoon 


GIG 

cinnamon. Rolled out, egged over, the blanched 
almonds chopped, and sugar spread over; cut in 
cakes and baked. German Cream —Rich cream 
boiled up, flavored with sugar, lemon and brandy;, 
served cold in a state of froth by being shaken up. 
German Croustades —Patty shapes of fried bread 
filled with minced chicken. German Fritters— 
See Berlin pancakes and apple fritters. German 
Cup Puddings— Made of 2 oz. flour, 4 oz. butter, 1 
pt. milk, 2 oz. sugar, 3 eggs, lemon flavor; the flour 
stirred up with the milk, butter softened and beaten 
in with sugar and eggs, baked in buttered cups; 
whipped German custard sauce. German Pud¬ 
ding, Steamed —Made of S oz. bread-crumbs, 3 oz. 
each sugar and butter, 4 eggs. A layer of this mix¬ 
ture alternately with layer of jam or jelly in a 
mould; steamed. German Rice Pudding— A rice 
and raisin custard, made of 4 oz. rice boiled in 1 pt. 
milk, mixed with 4 oz. butter, 2 oz. almonds 
pounded (or paste), 2 oz. each sugar and raisins,, 
little cinnamon, 3 yolks. Just before boiling or bak¬ 
ing, 3 whipped whites stirred in. German Pud¬ 
ding Sauce —Light wine with sugar boiled up and 
poured to beaten yolks, not allowed to boil again, 
but whipped to froth and served hot. German 
Puffs —Made of 1 qt. milk, 8 oz. flour, 8 oz. butter, 

2 eggs, nutmeg and cinnamon. Flour stirred up 
with milk, softened butter beaten in, eggs whipped 
stirred in; baked in buttered cups, served with pud¬ 
ding sauce, or hot for breakfast. Cage Bird 
Paste, German — Made of 4 hard-boiled yolks 
pounded in a mortar with 1 lb. white pea meal and 
1 tablespoon olive oil; mixed to a dough, pressed 
through a colander to form grains like shot, fried 
over the fire light brown, put away dry for use. 

GHERKINS—Small cucumbers of a dwarf kind;, 
also young common cucumbers. Used for pickling. 

GIBIER (Fr.)—Game. Pate de Gibier —Game 
pie. 

GIBLETS—The neck, liver, gizzard, heart and 
feet of geese and ducks and similar trimmings of 
any fowls. Pate d’Abatis d’Oie —Pie of goose- 
giblets. Abatis de Dinde— Turkey-giblets. Gib- 
let Patties —The gizzards boiled until tender sep¬ 
arately; then cut from the hard skin into small dice;, 
livers, etc.; stewed in wine-gravy; gizzards added; 
filled into patty cases, or croustades, or cassolettes. 
Giblet Soup —Good stock of mixed meats and poul¬ 
try; giblets and vegetables cut in dice in it, and little 
barley or rice. 

GIGOT (Fr.)—Leg or ham; especially a leg of 
mutton. Gigot Roti— Roast leg of mutton. Gigot 
Bouilli aux Capres —Boiled leg of mutton; caper 
sauce. Gigot a la Polonaise —Leg of mutton in 
Polish style; braised, cut in slices without severing 
them from the bone, and a stuffing put between each 
slice. Gigot a la Bretonne —Leg stuffed and 
braised; served with Bretonne sauce and stewed 
white beans. Gigot a la Russe— Leg of mutton 
roasted, and the cooking finished in burning brandy- 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


329 


GIN 

served with the gravy and brandy. Gigot a la 
Proven^ale— Leg of mutton with strips of garlic 
inserted; roasted and served with Bretonne sauce. 
Gigot d’Agneau a la Palestine— Leg of lamb 
boiled; served with puree of Jerusalem artichokes. 
Gigot d’Agneau aux Epinakds— Leg of lamb 
with spinach. Gigot de Porc Bouilli —Boiled leg 
of pork with vegetables. Gigot de Porc a la Pie- 
montaise —Leg of pork roasted; served with brown 
sauce, pickles, and olives. Gigot de Porc a 
l’Allemande —Leg of pickled pork boiled, and 
served wdth cabbage, sauerkraut or other vegetables. 
Gigot d’Ours —Leg of bear. 

GIN—Spirit made from wheat or other malted 
grain, flavored with juniper berries. “ In the reign 
of Henry XIII it was decreed that there should be 
but one maker of aqua vilce, as whisky and gin were 
then called, in every borough, under a penalty of six 
shillings and eight pence, a sum of much more value 
in those days than it is now. Some idea of the ex¬ 
tensive trade done at the present time in this spirit 
mav be gathered from the fact that there are at 
Schiedam alone upwards of 300 distilleries, or rather 
manufactories, of malt wine, which is the basis of 
prime geneva. Juniper berries are round, of a black¬ 
ish-purple color, and contain an essential oil which, 
when obtained separately, is of a greenish-yellow 
color, and resembles in odor and taste oil of turpen¬ 
tine. It is greatly superior and far more beneficial 
to the health than the latter, but owing to its greater 
price oil of turpentine is largely used by the less 
conscientious distillers. 

GINGEMBRE (Fr.)—Ginger. 

GINGER—The root of a reed-like plant with an¬ 
nual leafy stems 3 to 4 feet high. Cultivated in warm 
countries; does not grow wild. The common brown 
ginger-root is in its natural state; the white, known 
as Jamaica ginger, is the root scraped and washed 
free from its outer coating. Ground ginger is con¬ 
siderably adulterated, generally with starchy sub¬ 
stances and also with old ginger from which the 
“essence of ginger” has been extracted. Ginger 
Pudding— “ For a wonder the confirmed joker of a 
proprietor was serious! He didn’t perpetrate above 
three puns and four witticisms per minute! On his 
menu for the day was ginger pudding, and he asked 
me to try it, which 1 did. It is such a capital, yet 
inexpensive specimen of culinary art that I asked 
him for the recipe. Here it is: Ginger Pudding- 
2 lbs. bread-crumbs, % lb. finely chopped suet, 1 lb. 
molasses, % lb. sugar, 1 oz. baking powder, )4 oz. 
ground ginger, 3 eggs; boil in buttered moulds; 
should the mixture be too stiff, add a little milk spar¬ 
ingly', the pudding ought to come out of a light 
golden color, and be as light as a feather. I commend 
this to caterers who have to give plenty for money.” 
“I have met another ginger pudding of late, which 
has about a dozen different names. The most pop¬ 
ular, however, are ‘ Chinese Pudding ’ and ‘ Golden 
Pudding.’ This new thing is merely a very light 


GLA 

but sweet plain pudding with lumps (about 1 -inch 
cubes) of Chy-loong preserved ginger in it, and 
served with custard sauce colored with saffron. On 
dit that this novelty originated at Smedley’s Hydro, 
at Buxton.” Ginger Beer—Is made of 2)4 lbs. 
sugar, 2 oz. bruised ginger, 4 lemons (rind and juice), 
% oz. cream tartar; 2)4 gls. boiling water poured to 
them in an earthen jar; when cold, little yeastadded; 
stand till next day; then bottled, and corks tied down; 
ready for use in 2 days. Gingerbread —Old-fash¬ 
ioned sort made of i )4 lbs. black molasses, )4 lb. 
butter, 3 eggs, 1 oz. ginger, )4 lb. brown sugar, 24 
oz.flour, caraway seeds, candied peel, juice of lemon, 
1 teaspoon soda; all mixed over night, worked like 
bread, baked in fiat sheet 1 inch thick, brushed over 
with milk. Thin Ginger Wafers— Pounded gin¬ 
ger, 1 oz.; butter, 4 oz.; flour, 4 oz.; golden syrup, 
4 oz. Beat the butter and mix with the golden 
syrup; stir in the flour and ginger; roll out thin and 
bake for 15 minutes in slow oven; roll like wafers 
whilst warm. Ginger Snaps— One pint molasses 
and 1 cup lard heated together and poured hot in 1 
qt. flour, 2 teaspoons soda and 2 ginger; let this 
dough cool, add flour enough to roll; roll thin and 
bake quick. Gingerbread Fair —“The great gin¬ 
gerbread fair is in full swing now at Pans. 1 have 
often wondered why the Paris Municipal Council 
don’t tender for the unsold stock of the vendors of 
gingerbread. The wood-paving they use is so un¬ 
satisfactory that something more solid, more heavy, 
and more wear-resisting might well be tried in its 
stead! ” 

GIPSY PUDDING—Or gipsy cake; also called 
tipsy cake and tipsy parson. A sponge cake pricked 
all over with a fork is saturated with wine and 
brandy poured over it at intervals as it soaks up the 
liquor. Split-almonds stuck all over it, rich flavored 
custard poured around and served with it, cold. 

GIRAUMONS (Fr.)—Vegetable marrows; sum¬ 
mer squashes. 

GLACE (Fr.)—Means both iced or glossed over, 
as an iced cake, and frozen. Creme Glace —Ice 
cream. Biscuits Glaces —Cakes of ice cream. 

GLADSTONE PUDDING—A pear custard pie 
made of a layer of lady fingers in bottom of dish, 
canned bartlett pears sliced over them, yolk-of-egg 
custard poured in, puff paste crust on top, egged 
and sugared; glass of sherry in when done; served 
cold. 

GLAZE—It is what remains when meat liquor is 
boiled down till nearly dry; it is extract of meat; it 
is meat gravy dried down thick enough to set solid 
when cold. It is improved by the cooks by flavor¬ 
ings of herbs, etc., added while it is boiling, and is 
strained and skimmed, making it a brown, stiff 
jelly; but that from chicken and veal is not dark, 
and is mentioned in cooking directions as white 
glaze. Used to add to sauces to make them rich 
and meaty, and to enrich soups when the meat is 
insufficient; also used to glaze or varnish over 





330 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


GLA 

cooked meats and vegetables before sending them 
to table, making them glossy and tempting in ap¬ 
pearance. “The glaze is melted like glue and ap¬ 
plied with a brush like varnish; a glaze-pot is made 
on the same principle as a glue-pot. I remember 
some years ago getting up a dinner where the 
kitchen windows abut upon the pavement of Park 
Lane, by Hyde Park. I was engaged in glazing 
some hams and tongues, when I became aware that 
my proceedings were being intently watched by a 
group of street arabs, one of whom could contain 
his feelings no longer, but shouted to his pals: ‘Hi! 
look ’ere, see! why, the cove in the white jacket is 
a-varnishing the meat.’ Buy glaze from the chefs 
in gentlemen’s families; the ordinary glaze of gen¬ 
eral commerce is made from beef only reduced to a 
sort of glue, but a chef's stock or bone-pot in a 
good family contains beef, veal, and the carcasses 
of poultry and game, thus forming a much richer 
and tastier glaze than if from beef only, which is 
comparatively insipid. After the soups and sauces 
are made from the first boilings, the pot is boiled up 
with all the scrap bones and meat cuttings and all 
other good things; it is then strained off and boiled 
down rapidly until it assumes the consistency of 
glue; it is then poured into skins while hot, or into 
basins and solidifies into solid essence of soup, dif¬ 
fering from the essence of beef sold by manufactur¬ 
ers, in the fact that it contains the gelatine as well 
as the meat, poultry and game essences. You can 
sometimes arrange to buy this glaze from chefs at 
2s. 6d. per lb., as after reserving an abundant sup¬ 
ply for family use, the overplus is generally the 
chef's perquisite. This glaze dissolved in boiling 
water and boiled up makes splendid clear soup.” 

GLACE DE VIANDE—“One of the last author¬ 
ities on the dying art of cookery in France, the last 
eloquent writer thereupon, the Marquis de Cherville, 
published a few days ago a learned article on Dumas 
pere from the gastronomical point of view; and, 
speaking of his proficiency and of his fidelity to tra¬ 
dition, said: ‘ Never would that genuine artist have 
allowed himself in the confection of a sauce, to ac¬ 
cept bouillon as a substitute for glace de viande.' 
And this opens up to the uninitiated a vista as wide 
as flie backgrounds of Leonardo da Vinci, the in¬ 
finite whereof remains amystery still to the profane. 
Imagination is wanting in the female cook; and 
therefore does no woman ever make a jus. She stops 
at the soup and the bouilli. But, if your purse per¬ 
mits, you must sacrifice both of these to make a jus, 
or that glace de viatide for which Dumas would ac¬ 
cept no substitute. When twelve or fourteen quarts 
of water are reduced to half, and the entire ingre¬ 
dients are taken away, then begins the ‘reduction,’ 
in good earnest, and from the remaining essence 
you obtain your fond de jus." 

GLAZING CAKES—Means to make them shine 
by either egging, or egging and sugaring the tops, 
or by brushing over with milk, or by covering with 
sugar and water icing. 


GON 

GLUCOSE—Grape sugar or the kind of sugar 
that will not granulate. The recent discoveries of 
methods of making it abundantly have had a great 
effect upon the confectionery trade, glucose being 
but about half the price of sugar, and consequently 
a cheapener of candies, syrups, jellies, and numer¬ 
ous other compounds. One, perhaps the principal 
method of producing glucose is by treating corn 
meal with sulphuric acid, which changes the corn to 
a sweet gum. In the great corn-producing regions 
'there are immense buildings erected especially, one 
in Chicago being nine stories in height, an entire 
block of brick. Glucose is as wholesome as any 
other syrup. In appearance it is like the white syrup 
known as silver drips, but is too thick to run; can 
be taken up on a pallet knife like the thickest mo¬ 
lasses in cold weather; is as clear as glass. It comes 
in another form, however, in barrels, when it is 
lumpy like gum and syrup mixed, when it is at the 
nearest approach to being sugar. It costs about an 
average of four cents a pound. Glucose in Ice 
Cream —One good use of it is to sweeten ice cream, 
the effect when the cream is well worked is to make 
it very smooth and soft to the palate. In Candies- 
It is used with about twice its weight of sugar in 
making gum-drops and all that class of goods, and 
in imitation fruit-jellies, maple syrups and cheap¬ 
ening devices of many descriptions. Glucose in 
Bread —“The bakers are endeavoring to make first- 
quality bread out of low-grade flour. A successful 
attempt in this line is reported as having been made 
by a Swiss baker, who mixes glucose, or starch- 
sugar, with low-grade flour, and is thereby enabled 
to turn out a loaf which closely resembles the pro¬ 
duct of high-grade flours, at a lessened cost.” Glu¬ 
cose in Sugar Boiling— It has the same effect to 
prevent sugar going to grains again as acids have. 
Glucose in Cream Crackers —Is said to have a 
very decided effect in improving the quality of sweet 
crackers, especially iu giving a smooth appearance 
and fine color. Glucose in Soda Syrups —This is 
one of the principal uses of it; the syrups are foamy* 
smooth and delicious when made with glucose. 
Glucose in Tobacco —It is added to chewing to¬ 
bacco instead of molasses, and in larger proportion, 
as it increases the weight of the tobacco to an extent 
very profitable to the makers. 

GODARD GARNISH — Slices of sweetbreads 
and truffles, heads of mushrooms, quenelles and 
quartered artichokes with brown sauce. Aloyau 
de Bceuf a la Godard —Sirloin of beef baked in 
wine, tomato sauce, etc., served with godard gar¬ 
nishing. 

GODIVEAU (Fr.)—Veal forcemeat; white veal 
with cooked udder, bacon or suet pounded to a fine 
paste; variously mixed with eggs, cream, bread, 
etc., to make forcemeat balls, quenelles, meat-pie 
linings and garnishes. 

GONDINGO—Florida-Spanish name of a thick 
soup made of liver and giblets, onions, green pep¬ 
pers, and rice. 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


331 


GOO 

GOOBER OR GUBER PEA—Southern popular 
n..me for the pea-nut or ground nut. 

GORGONZOEA—One of the present favorite 
dinner cheeses, said to have largely displaced En¬ 
glish Stilton. It is an Italian cheese; can be found 
at most of the fancy groceries or wine and oil im¬ 
porting houses. To Keep Gorgonzola Cheese— 
Cover it thoroughly with well-buttered white paper, 
so as effectually to exclude the air; then wrap it in 
brown paper. It should be looked at from time to 
time, and fresh buttered paper put on. It should be 
kept in a cool dry place. 

GOOSE — “A dinner was given one day not long 
ago to \\ illiam M. Evarts, the American lawyer, 
who is a great epicure. One of the courses, roast 
stuffed goose, seemed especially to please the palate 
of the learned gentleman, and he lent himself thereto 
with much vigor. After dinner came speeches, and 
in the course of one of them a gentleman asked this 
conundrum: ‘What great change has taken place 
during this dinner? ’ It was given up. He had to 
answer his own conundrum —‘ When we began, we 
had a goose stuffed with sage; now we have fin¬ 
ished, we have a sage stuffed with goose.’ ” Goose 
with Sage and Onions —“Sage and onions are the 
traditional concomitants of the seasoning. It is that 
which Queen Elizabeth favored when she made a 
goose at Michaelmas, the fashionable dish of her 
age, and a national dish for many ages to come. It 
was sage and onions Old Dr. Parr of ‘ Life Pill ’ 
fame delighted to revel in. It was the savory smell 
that made him squeeze his friend’s hand (when he 
descended to the vicar’s modest parlor after chang¬ 
ing his rain-besoaked clothing and awaiting dinner), 
as he exclaimed: ‘ How kind of you, my dear friend, 
when you know I’m tho fond of roath goothe,’ and 
it was only the poor doctor’s horse-hair wig and 
some onion peelings behind the fire. The dinner 
was shoulder of mutton and onion sauce.” Green 
Goose —“A plump little green-goose is considered 
by epicures to be the daintiest of morsels; but the 
young stubble or autumn goose of 5 or 6 months old 
is most appreciated by the general public and the 
caterer. Its flavor is more developed, there is more 
of it to carve at, it is not so strong as its elder breth¬ 
ren either in flavor or sinew.” Green-goose is in 
season from April till July, or until it is 3 months 
old. In preparing it for roasting, it is generally 
dipped in boiling water, which has the effect of 
opening the pores of the skin, and permitting the re¬ 
moval of the feathers without breaking it. The bird 
is then drawn and prepared for roasting. The 
Stubble-Goose —Is properly 5 to 7 months old. It 
is picked in the usual way that all poultry are re¬ 
lieved of their feathers. The head is removed, leav¬ 
ing the neck attached to it, and so cut that about 2 
inches of the skin that covers the neck is left on the 
body. The bird is emptied in the usual way, and the 
feet cut off. It is then wiped out. Green-geese 
should not be stuffed. Stubble-geese may be, espec- 


GOO 

ially when they are served as “ Michaelmas-geese.” 
Five Geese —“Madame Guiccioli said of Byron, 
that he insisted upon keeping up old customs in 
small things, such as having hot cross buns on 
Good Friday and roast goose on Michaelmas Day. 
This last fancy led to a grotesque result. After 
buying a goose and fearing it might be too lean, he 
fed it every day for a month previously, so that the 
poet and the bird became so mutually attached that 
when September 29 arrived he could not kill it, but 
bought another, and had the pet goose swung in a 
cage under his carriage when he traveled, so that 
after four years he was moving about with four 
geese. Goose and Swan— It is a curious illustra¬ 
tion of the de gustibus 7 ion est disputandum , that 
the ancients considered the swan as a high delicacy 
and abstained from the flesh of the goose as im¬ 
pure and indigestible. Toulouse Sale d’Oie —In 
the Toulouse district, famous for its geese, those 
birds are never roasted or baked, being for the most 
part treated as follows: They are cut into pieces 
and put on a good fire in a copper vessel with a 
proper addition of salt. When cooked they are laid 
in pots and covered with fat. This is called sale 
d'oie, or salted goose, and is found in every house 
in the district. Goose Dinner —In a dinner made 
up principally of the bird, which is—or was in the 
days of James and Horace Smith—“uncommon 
common on a common”: “Dish No. 2, if not ex¬ 
actly a mystery, was at least a gastronomic revel¬ 
ation to those who had never tasted a goose stuffed 
with truffles and olives two days before cooking, 
then roasted and served with rich brown gravy and 
potato straws. The third dish was simply a boiled 
goose served with the accompaniments of pickled 
pork, celery sauce and< vegetables. The fourth dish 
brought to light a roast goose stuffed with chest¬ 
nuts and apples (in the German fashion), and eaten 
with brown gravy and saute potatoes. The fifth 
and last dish was also a roast goose, with a savory 
lining of veal stuffing served with rich gravy, peas 
a la Francaise, and mashed potatoes. By the time 
justice had been done to this repast, the cry went 
round, * not too much goose, but just goose 
enough.’ ” Roast Goose —Sage and onion stuff¬ 
ing is the general accompaniment of roast goose. 
If a strong flavor of onion is liked, the onions should 
be chopped raw; if this is not the case, they should 
be boiled in one, two or three waters, and mixed 
with a large or small quantity of bread-crumbs. 
Truss the goose firmly, tie the openings securely, 
place it in a deep pan with water enough to prevent 
burning, and a little drippings, cover with a but¬ 
tered paper; baste continuously until done. A goose 
is both unwholesome and unpalatable if insuffic¬ 
iently cooked. When done, take it up, remove the 
skewers and fastenings, pour gravy round it and 
send apple sauce to table with it. The time required 
to cook a medium-sized goose is from one honr to 
one hour and a half. Braised Goose a l’Alsa- 
Cienne —Stuffed with pork sausage meat extra high 








332 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


GOO 

seasoned and mixed with bread-crumbs; braised in 
covered vessel with white wine and broth, and 
aromatics; served with broiled sausages, boiled 
chestnuts in bouillon, and balls of potatoes fried, 
and gravy made of the braise liquor. Goose Liver 
— Goose liver or foie gras is extensively used in 
sandwiches. Cut it into thin slices, place them be¬ 
tween slices of buttered bread, add a little French 
mustard, a drop or two of lemon juice, and serve. 
Roast Goose a la Mount Vernon— Young goose 
stuffed with mashed potatoes, which contain a 
slight seasoning of lightly fried onions. Apples in 
halves, pared, baked in goose-grease and little 
sugar, served with the roasted goose. Goose a 
l’Arlesienne —Goose stuffed with forcemeat made 
of onions, chestnuts, bread, parsley and seasonings. 
Braised in stock with aromatics for 2 hours; served 
with tomato sauce made of the braise liquor and 
drained tomatoes. Goose Pie —Is made like game 
pie or pate, to cut cold, or cut up; half-fried, then 
stewed and covered \\ ith paste and baked. Geese 
in Egypt —The Egyptians served geese at their 
meals every day; it was, with veal, the favorite 
dish of their monarchs, and they did not forget to 
offer some to King Agesilaus when he was travel¬ 
ing through the country. 

GOOSEBERRY —A fruit of but little conse¬ 
quence in the United States; most congenial to cool 
and moist climates; very prominent among English 
fruits. Gooseberry Champagne— A good trade 
is being done in the district of Hedemarken, in Nor¬ 
way, in gooseberry champagne. It is a well-known 
fact that more champagne is drunk every year in 
America alone than is produced in the province 
from which the wine takes its name. Of course, a 
large quantity is genuine champagne, but a still 
larger quantity is made up from cider, gooseberry 
and rhubarb juice. This gooseberry champagne 
is remarkably good, and is fast gaining favor in 
Sweden and the United States; but beer is much 
preferred by the ‘Norwegians. Made by mashing 
40 lbs. of ripe berries in a tub with 4 gallons water, 
lukewarm; left to steep a day, pulped through a 
seive; 30 lbs. sugar added and water to make up 11 
gals. Add 3 oz. crude tartar, let ferment itself in 
warm place 2 days, drawn off into 10 gal. keg and 
stoppered when fermentation ceases, or in 10 or 12 
days; is bottled 6 months afterwards. Gooseberry 
Pickle —A very favorite pickle in some parts of 
France is gooseberries preserved in vinegar. The 
variety usually pickled is the small red one, pickled 
before maturity. This pickle suits some people 
amazingly, but as to me, my teeth are on edge with 
no likelihood of getting off, by merely writing these 
lines. Gooseberry Souffle —Gooseberry pulp, 
well sweetened in the stewing, placed in a glass 
dish, yolk custard poured over, whipped whites on 
top; cold. Gooseberry Fool —English institution; 
stewed green gooseberries with sugar and milk or 
cream, or milk mixed in and whipped cream on top. 
Gooseberry Sauce —Same way as apple sauce, 


GRA 

eaten with roast goose and pork. Tarts de Gro- 
seilles Vertes —Green gooseberry open pies. 
Pouding aux Groseilles— A gooseberry cream 
pie, made of puree of gooseberries, bread-crumbs, 
butter, eggs and sugar. Gooseberry Maraschino 
—An imitation, like gooseberry champagne; made 
of 25 lbs. of best red ripe gooseberries and 5 lbs. 
wild cherries and cherry leaves, all bruised and 
steeped in 1 gal. gin for two weeks. Filtered 
through a jelly bag, 3 pts. clear white sugar-syrup 
added; bottled. 

GOUJON (Fr.)—Gudgeon; a small river fish. 

GOURMET AND GOURMAND—“ There are 
two broad varieties in French lovers of eating—the 
gourmets and the gourma?ids. The difference be¬ 
tween them is so great that they may be considered 
as complete opposites. The gourmand is a mere 
glutton, who eats as much as he can, devouring one 
dish after another. The gourmand is the man who 
omits not one of the dishes at a table-d’hote, and 
then complains that he cannot dine properly in 
that hotel. The gourmet , on the contrary, is a pro¬ 
duct of high civilization. He enjoys with discrim¬ 
ination, and he is quite on the side of temperance; 
he even values the commonest things, if they are 
excellent of their own kind. A French gourmet 
once said to me, * I am excessively fond of oysters; 
but I never exceed one dozen, being convinced that 
after the first dozen the palate has become incapable 
of fully appreciating the flavor.’ A real gourmet 
preserves his palate in the healthiest and most nat¬ 
ural condition; he prefers the simplest meal, such 
as fried mutton chop, if it is really well cooked, to 
an elaborate banquet where the cookery is less than 
excellent. 

“ But a plain leg of mutton, my Lucy, 

I Pr’ythee get ready at three: 

Have it smoking, and tender, and juicy, 

And what better meat can there be?” 

I knew a Parisian who was a gourmet in Thacke¬ 
ray’s manner, and his way of living was to order 
one dish of meat, one of vegetables, and a little des¬ 
sert, at an excellent and expensive restaurant a la 
carte. He did not desire the more abundant feeding 
at the restaurantes a prixfixe and the tables-d'hole. 
He drank very moderately also; in a word, he lived 
as a gentleman ought to live, without excess, yet 
with perfect appreciation.” 

GOUT (Fr.)—Taste; flavor. Goutez la! —Taste 
it! IIaut-gout —High-flavor. 

GRAHAM—Name of a Boston physician who 
zealously advocated the use of unbolted wheat-meal 
for bread instead of fine flour, hence the name of 
Graham flour, bread, farina, etc., all made of whole 
meal. 

GRANITO (It.)—Iced punch of various sorts. 
(See Ices.) 

GRAPES—Among the best of fruits to serve for 
breakfast and always welcome at dinner. The Con¬ 
cord grape is the staple variety available in this 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


333 


GRA 

•country, and taking it altogether it is the best, for 
while there are others more delicate in flavor and 
more attractive in color, there are none so evenly 
ripe, so juicy, so sweet, so good to last through 
several months, so reliable and unfailing. Musca¬ 
dine —A Southern native grape of high musky fla¬ 
vor. Scuppernong-A large, coarse Southern native 
grape, good for wine; comes to market without 
stems, like baskets of plums; is dull-yellow or olive- 
colored. Malaga Grapes— Imported in kegs, pack¬ 
ed in sawdust; cost about twice as much as native 
grapes; firm, green, sweet; the kind to buy for par¬ 
ty suppers and for dessert in winter and spring. 
<GrapeIce Cream —White California grapes, Mus¬ 
cats, Tokays, are suitable to mix in ice cream 
whole, uncooked, after the frezing is nearly com¬ 
pleted. Grape Water Ice —Any kind of grapes 
pressed and the juice strained, sweetened, frozen. 
Grape Jelly —Stewed grapes, the juice strained off 
and boiled down thick with sugar. Grape Table 
Jeely — White grape juice strained, sweetened, 
wine added, and oz. gelatine in each quart, 
•boiled; cooled in moulds with layers of raw grapes. 
Grape Pies, tarts, jams, marmalade, preserves, 
•etc., same as other fruit. Pickled Grapes —Ripe 
grapes pickled in vinegar, though their merits are 
-well known in Southern Russia, have never re¬ 
ceived due recognition in England. But these are 
■delicacies rather than food. Grapes for Dessert 
—At lunches, buffets, and five-o’clocks in France, 
strawberries, and indeed most berries, are eaten 
with champagne. Muscatel grapes powdered with 
■crushed ices and anointed with sparkling wine are a 
ifavorite dessert-dish. Grapes are invariably eaten 
with wine in France, the bunch being dipped into 
the wine. Red grapes are eaten with red wine, and 
white grapes with white wine. 

GRAPES TO KEEP—Packing in dry sawdust, 
or hanging by single bunches on lines in a cool dry 
Basement-room are the most effective ways. Grape 
Wine— Home-made grape wine is made in locali¬ 
ties where grapes abound by the same method as 
■cider; it ferments itself, and when that is nearly 
■over it is drawn off into a sulpher-smoked barrel, a 
gallon or two of native spirit added, such as apple 
or peach brandy or corn whiskey, and the barrel is 
tightly closed and stored away. 

GRAPE FRUIT—Name of a large sort of orange, 
•iicid but with a grape-like flavor, common in Flori¬ 
da and the West Indies and plentiful in Southern 
markets; the shaddock. 

GRAVY SOUP—English name for rich beef soup. 

GRAVY BEEF—Rough cuts only fit for stewing. 

GRAYLING—A fresh water fish found in the 
great lakes and rivers, also as mentioned by Izaak 
Walton, in English rivers, silver scaled, weight 
from i to 5 pounds. 

GREEK COOKERY — Liqueurs-R is usual in 
Greece to drink liqueurs before dinner. The Greeks 


GRE 

drink liqueurs and not spirits straight. Raki is the 
liqueur preferred, and that made in Cluos is consid¬ 
ered the best. Absinthe, chartreuse, maraschino and 
the other liqueurs almost universally employed are 
equally acceptable and proper at a Greek dinner. 
Soup —All Greek dinners begin wtih soup and not 
with hors d’oeuvres, which come afterwards.— 
Mutton Soup a la Greque —A boned shoulder of 
mutton cooked in mutton broth, taken up and cut in 
dice; carrots, turnips and onions also cut in squares 
and cooked in broth, and green peas added to them; 
puree of split-peas made separately; then all mixed 
together, mutton, vegetables and puree of peas to 
make the soup. Vermicelli Soup a la Greque- 
A cream-colored soup with vermicelli; made of con- 
comme slightly thickened with flour and butter roux; 
after boiling poured to 2 yolks to each quart, and 
cup cream; hot enough to thicken, but not boil; ver¬ 
micelli cooked separately and added to the soup. 
Potage Marathon —Broth with rice and fresh to¬ 
matoes, /. e. y rice and tomato soup made with mut¬ 
ton stock; parsley to finish. Potage Salamis— 
Yellow, smooth, egg-and-acid soup made of con¬ 
somme with 2 yolks and juice of 1 lemon to each qt.; 
the juice beaten into the yolks, and boiling con¬ 
somme poured to them; made hot enough to thicken 
like cream, but must not boil; cayenne and parsley. 
The Soup-Meat with Greens —At all Greek din¬ 
ners the mutton, beef, or poultry, out of which the 
soup has been prepared, is always served after the 
soup. This is a national habit and not a matter of 
economy; this meat is usually eaten with greens, 
dandelion leaves or other mild herbs. Greek Hors 
d’CEuvres— It is with the boiled meat that the hors 
d’cenvres are served in Greece, never before. Ol¬ 
ives -Ripe black olives in oil, green olives in great 
variety, and pickled peppers. Caviaro-Salata— 
Made of caviare, ]A, almonds rolled to powder, % 
bread-crumbs; olive oil to moisten, lemon juice, 
cayenne; spread on small, thick slices of bread. 
Lakerda —Smoked and salted fish; considered a 
great delicacy. Arzotaracho —The roe of the gray 
mullet pressed and dried. Tsiras —A salad of an¬ 
chovies, olives and parsley. It is usual in Greece to 
leave the hors d'ceuvres on the table during the 
whole meal until dessert is served. Greek Fish— 
Amongst the abundance of the Mediterannean fish 
the red mullet is perhaps the favorite. It is cooked 
in oil with garlic, parsley and cayenne, or baked in 
tomato sauce with lemon juice. Gray mullet, brill 
and sea-bream are also much eaten. Another 
favorite way of cooking fish is to fry them in 
oil, adding butter and vinegar, rosemary, garlic, 
and capers to the oil they are fried in, allow¬ 
ing them to get cold in the dressing; they are 
eaten either cold or hot. Greek Vegetables— 
Stuffed artichokes, stuffed tomatoes, stuffed cucum¬ 
bers, egg plant and vegetable marrows. Fillet of 
Beef a l’Atiienienne —In the Athens style it is 
larded, roasted or baked, surrounded with fried 
egg-plant in thick slices, a brown sauce with Ma- 




334 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


GRE 

deira poured over the fillet. Beefsteak a la 
Greque— Beefsteaks lightly fried with onions, a 
gill of Marsala wine, ^ pt. espagnole, same of 
stewed tomatoes added, simmered an hour; served 
with fried egg plant. Greek Chicken —Cut up 
and cooked in tomato sauce and white wine, simi¬ 
lar to beefsteak a la Greque. Greek Roast Lamb 
—The favorite roast is very young lamb. Agneau 
Kleftiko —A whole lamb roasted before an open 
wood fire, adding wild thyme and lemon juice to 
the basting; served with salads and vegetables. 
This dish is always eaten at Easter in Greece. 
Pommes Kertedes — Potato croquettes flavored 
with grated cheese. Stuffed Cucumbers a la 
Greque- —Pieces 2 inches long parboiled, center 
hollowed out, set on end, filled with raw mutton 
forcemeat, simmered in the oven; served with to¬ 
mato sauce. Greek Pilaf —Rice boiled in broth 
with tomatoes and butter. The rice should be nei¬ 
ther dry nor floating in liquid—a happy medium be¬ 
tween the two. Pilaf is very good with larks, 
pieces of chicken or any kind of meat; it can also be 
eaten alone. “A few years ago some Greek students 
in Paris, longing for the flesh-pots of Hellas, got a 
Greek cook to come over to cook for them. He 
hired a small shop and began on the lowest possible 
scale. He has now one of the most successful res¬ 
taurants in the Latin quarter and does a splendid 
trade, of which anyone may convince himself by 
looking into the Restaurant Orientale in the Rue 
des Ecoles. He is specially noted for his pilaf.” 
Greek Buttered Rice— A cupful of rice, raw, is 
fried in butter; a pint of tomato soup, or broth and 
tomatoes, is poured to the rice and all boiled about 
20 minutes. It should not be very liquid, t>ut dry 
enough to heap up in a dish. Have butter stirred 
in before serving. It is but a slight variation of 
pilaf; is served with broiled chichen livers, roasted 
larks, or vegetables only, such as cauliflower 
branches augratin. Greek Rice Pudding— Cin¬ 
namon-flavored boiled rice custard, served with 
•ground cinnamon separately. Made of 4 oz. rice, 2 
qts. milk, S yolks, 2 oz. corn starch, S oz. sugar, 1 
oz. cinnamon. Rice boiled in milk with cinnamon, 
custard made separately, stirred together; served 
cold. Greek Pudding — Thick siices of bread 
soaked in cold milk, then strained and fried in oil 
or clear butter till browned outside only. Saturated 
with honey-and-sugar syrup, flavored with cinna¬ 
mon; served warm. Rice and milk with sugar and 
cinnamon are made up in various forms of Greek 
sweet dishes. Greek Balaklava Cake —Layers 
of pastry spread with chopped almonds in honey. 
Con rabies —Thin wafers made of flour, sugar, and 
butter; baked until crisp. ( See Fairy Gingerbread, 
the ginger omitted or substituted.) Rhcf.lo Sac- 
charee —See Crystallized Rose Reaves. Serbati- 
Gluko —Preserves scented with flowers. Greek 
Dessert —There are usually piles of many-colored 
grapes, oranges, sweet lemons, pomegranates, etc. 
The pomegranates are usually cut in halves, and 


GRI 

eaten with powdered sugar and orange-flower water. 
Greek Wines —The white wines of Patros, Samos 
and Kephalonia, and the red wines called rezinato 
because of the rosin which is added to the wines to 
preserve them. With dessert the Cyprus wine 
known as Commanderia (thick and strong like thick 
syrup) is drunk. Sweet port would make a very 
good substitute for Commanderia; Bordeaux, red or 
white, makes a good substitute for Patros wine, and 
various burgundies for rezinato. 

GREENGAGE—An excellent plum which re¬ 
mains green when ripe. Cooked and used in all the 
ways suitable for apricots; acceptable for contrast 
of colors in compotes, jams, jellies and ices. 

GREEN ANCHOVY BUTTER-For fish, chop¬ 
ped parsley leaves, the juice squeezed through a 
napkin by twisting, mixed with anchovies and but¬ 
ter, pounded and put through a seive. Must be 
lukewarm to mix, then made cold. 

GREEN SAUCE—Bignon’s sauce vert. Used as 
mint sauce with roast lamb and cold meats; made of 
equal quantities of capers, parsley, chives, gher¬ 
kins, and tarragon. Mince the whole very fine, and 
mix it all together. Then season with pepper and 
salt and cayenne, and put it into a jar with tarragon 
vinegar. When it is wanted to serve, take as much 
as is required; put it into a bowl with a sufficient 
quantity of chervil, a little French mustard and the 
necessary amount of salad-oil. 

GREEN GOOSE—Spring goose. ( See Goose.) 

GRENADINS—Thin slices of veal and some 
other meats larded. Grenadins de Filet deBccuf 
a la Financiere —Thin slices of tenderloin, lar¬ 
ded, cooked in nturepoix or seasoned stock, served 
in the reduced sauce with Financiere garnish. 
Grenadins de Veau aux Petites Racines —Thin 
oval slices of veal larded with strips of fat pork, 
braised in a pan with aromatics, glazed in their own 
sauce, served with potatoes, carrots and turnips half 
fried, then stewed in brown sauce. Grenadins de 
Veau, Sauce Tomate —Served with tomato sauce. 

GRILL—Gridiron; broiler; a grill; a broil. 

GRILL-ROOM—English public kitchen where 
meats are broiled to order; sometimes on a silver 
gridiron and in sight of the customer. 

GRIMOD DE LA REYNIERE—A name at¬ 
tached to several modern French dishes, has 
reference to a notable patron of culinary art, con¬ 
temporary with De Cussy, Careme, and Brillat- 
Savarin: “Grimond de la Reyniere came of a 
banking family, and no one had a bad word to say 
against either his palate or his camel. An acci¬ 
dent in early childhood deprived him of both hands, 
which he replaced by many ingenious contrivan¬ 
ces; and he even became a dandy in his youth, 
frequented the leaders of the Francais, and visited 
Voltaire. lie was muscularly strong, and had a 
strong constitution; eventually developed, let us 
say, a hump on his camel, i. e. became obese and 













THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


335 


GRI 


GRO 


lived to be eighty. He was a charming talker in 
his best years, but latterly, wrote De Cussy, he 
got to be commonplace and garrulous about every- 
thing> The same Dr. Roques, exclaming quantum 
mutatus , said in a sketch of Grimod’s old age that 
‘he rang for his servants at nine in the morning, 
shouting and scolding until he got his vermicelli 
soup. Soon after he became tranquil, and began to 
talk gaily; finally becoming silent, and going to 
sleep again for some hours. At his waking the com¬ 
plaints began over again; he would fly into rages, 
groan, weep, and wish he was dead. But, when 
dinner-time came, he ate of every dish, all the time 
declaring that he would have nothing, for his end 
was nigh. At dessert his face began to show some 
animation, his eyebrows lifted, and some light 
showed from the eyes, deep sunk in their sockets. 
‘ How is De Cussy? Will he live long?’ he would 
ask; ‘they say he has a fatal ailment. They haven’t 
put him on diet yet, have they? The rains were 
heavy; we’ll have lots of mushrooms in the au¬ 
tumn. The vines are splendid; you must come for 
the vintage;’ and so on, always about gluttony. 
Then he would grow gradually silent in his great 
armchair, and the e} r es would close. At ten they 
came for him—he could no longer walk—and put 
him to bed.’ And this was the youngster who, at 
the age of twenty, was canght by his own father 
sitting down, lone as the ace of spades, to seven 
roast turkeys, merely for their “oysters,” their sot- 
Vy-laisse , as the French say.” (Note.—The “oys¬ 
ters” are the tid-bits of meat on each side of the 
small of the back. But another one who tells the 
anecdote says the seven turkeys were ordered mere¬ 
ly for their “ Pope’s nose.”) Turkey a la Rey- 
nxere —A plump, fat and tender turkey-hen is 
trussed nicely and roasted about an hour and a quar¬ 
ter; untrussed, placed on a dish, surrounded with 
sausages and chestnuts and cress at each end; served 
with a slightly thickened gravy into which the liver 
of the turkey previously cooked and sliced fine, is 
put at the last moment. Roast Woodcock a la 
Grimod— The birds skewered with their bills, the 
trail chopped on toast, birds roasted before the fire 
with the prepared toast beneath to receive the drip¬ 
pings. Served on the toast with gravy and quartered 
lemons. Salad a la Grimod —Several vegetables 
parboiled and chopped, arranged on toasted bread 
in separate groups with chopped yolks and whites, 
oil, vinegar, etc. 

GRISSINI BREAD—“A Boston paper says that 
the technical name for those long sticks of bread, 
such as are served at the Parker House, which one 
finds it so entertaining to nibble upon between 
courses, is Grissini, the patronymic of the Turin 
baker who invented them.” A London paper says: 
“Italian Grissini has deservedly come into high favor 
for soups, etc., and the crisp finger-like article pro¬ 
duced by Messrs. Grinnell has already created a 
large demand, so much so that it is now said to be 
‘the rage.' ” — “You may in many cases learn from 


your hotel bills the chief products of places in the 
way of food; for, of course, I had sausages at Bo¬ 
logna, ‘grissini’ at Turin, grapes at Tyrol, and so on; 
while as for wine you may instruct yourself as to the 
native soil of many dozen varieties.” Mr. T. J. 
Harrison, a baker in business at one period, made a 
specialty of grissini in Detroit. He took in a desti¬ 
tute Italian baker who in turn showed his employer 
what he could do, and thus the grissini trade was 
started to their mutual profit, the Italian residents 
being pretty constant buyers from the first. The 
Italian baker would call it Garibaldi Grissini in the 
advertisements when he had his way; but it seemed 
there were two political parties among the Italians, 
and one-half of them would not buy Garibaldi bread; 
consequently the bread took on a strictly neutral 
character after that was discovered, and became 
Italian grissini, neither more nor less. It is made of 
the ordinary bread-dough with some butter worked 
into it; then the dough is kneaded under a lever- 
break as if for crackers. Made into rolls about two 
fingers thick, allowed to rise, brushed over with 
water, divided and taken up one by one by th^ ends 
and pulled out to the thinness of a little finger and 
about 12 inches long; then rolled, wet as they are, in 
corn meal, placed on a wet peel and slid off when 
the peel is full on to the oven bottom. A revolving 
oven is the best for them as they need but a few 
minutes to bake. Sold at 6oc. per lb. Being almost 
hollow, nearly all crust, it takes a stack of them to 
weigh a pound. 

GRISKIN OF PORK—The loin; the roasting 
piece between the last rib and the ham-joint; same 
as the porter-house cut of beef. 



GROSSE PIECE SUR SOCLE. 

Round of spiced beef on carved stand of mutton fat. 


GROG—“A drink composed of rum and something 
else was called ‘grog.’ It originally meant rum di¬ 
luted with water, but was more often with a cordial 
or something of that nature. The name of ‘ grog * 











THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


336 


' GRO 

was derived in a singular way. It is said that once 
Admiral Vernon, in the British navy, and who was 
noted for his generous nature, was wont to deal out 
an allowance of this drink to his sailors. He wore 
what was called a ‘grogan’ cloak in severe weather, 
and after a while the men jestingly designated him 
as ‘old grog,’ hence the name of the mixture.” 

GRONDIN (Fr.)—Gurnet or gurnard; a fish. 

GROSSES PIECES (Fr.) — Large ornamented 
pieces; built up dishes; pyramids; designs in cooked 
meats; ornamental sugar work on stands. 

GROSEILLES (Fr.)—Garden currants; cassis — 
black currants (garden). Zante currants are raisins 
tie corinthe. Groseilles Vertes —Gooseberries. 

GROUND RICE—Used like farina, starch, tapi¬ 
oca and sago in all sorts of puddings and custards. 

GROUND-NUT—The peanut. 

GROUPER—A fish of the Florida and Gulf coast. 
There are three varieties, known as red, black and 
white grouper; the shape is like a carp, the scales 
and color more like black bass; size from 5 to 15 lbs.; 
flesh second quality, being rather hard and coarse 
in comparison with the red-snapper, which is 
abundant in the same localities. Is cooked in the 
same ways as snapper, and baked in tomato sauce, 
and the southern courtbouillon. 

GROUSE — Prairie chickens; spruce grouse, 
ruffed grouse, pin-tail grouse, moor-fowl, and other 
kinds; larger than a partridge. Grouse a la Rob 
Roy —Alexis Soyer, the famous Reform Club chef, 
bestowed much attention on the cooking of grouse. 
One of his modes was to wrap the bird to be roasted 
in slices of fat bacon and sprigs of heather well 
steeped in whisky. This is “grouse a la Rob Roy.” 
Grouse a la Russe —After roasting the birds, cut 
them up into joints, arrange in a pyramid on a dish, 
and cover over with meat glaze; hand rich gravy in 
a sauce-boat. Grouse a l’Ecossaise — Scotch 
style; the grouse roasted, then cut up; sauce made 
in the pan with the scraps, backs of grouse, etc., 
orange juice added; grouse piled up on toasted 
bread, sauce over all, orange slices around. Grouse 
a la Financiere — Grouse stuffed with a force¬ 
meat of the livers pounded with onion, mushrooms, 
bread-crumbs, butter, salt, pepper; roasted; served 
with brown sauce and mushrooms. Marinaded 
Grouse —The grouse steeped in a pickle of vinegar, 
chopped onion, bay leaves, juniper berries, pepper 
corns, for 3 days. Stuffed with turkey stuffing, 
bre ists larded, roasted with constant butter basting. 
Served with sliced lemons. Grouse Pudding— 
Birds cut up, a deep pudding bowl lined with short- 
paste, thin beefsteak at bottom, then chopped mush¬ 
rooms, then pieces of grouse, peppered, salted and 
floured, so on till bowl is full; cupful of gravy 
added, paste cover, edges wetted and secured, tied 
down m cloth, boiled 3 or 4 hours. Served in bowl 
with folded napkin arranged around it, or served 
from sideboard. Souffle of Grouse— Cold roast 
grouse meat pounded to a paste with 1 oz. butter, 2 


GUI 

oz. cooked rice, aromatic salt, % pt. meat glaze; 
rubbed through a seive, 4 yolks added, lastly 4 
whites whipped firm; baked in a mould. It rises 
light in the oven. Served in the mould soon as done, 
with gravy aside. Salmi of Moor Fowl —Cooked 
birds cut up into a stewpan with olive oil, lemon 
rind and juice, piece of orange peel, shallot, pepper, 
salt, cayenne, tossed up till hot through, served hot. 
Grouse Soup —Grouse boiled in meat stock, flesh 
picked off and pounded through seive; soup thick¬ 
ened with butter and flour, strained, 2 yolks added 
and the puree of grouse. Duchess crusts. Grouse 
a la Ailsa— Grouse cut up, the joints dipped in 
thick essence of game sauce, then in bread-crumbs, 
then in egg and crumbs; browned in the oven in 
butter. Salmis de Grouse auxTruffes- -Roasted, 
cut up, heated in essence of game sauce with truff¬ 
les, garnished with croutons. Grouse A la Commo¬ 
dore —The joints coated with a forcemeat of grouse 
and dressed in a pyramid with rich game sauce. 
Filets de Grouse a la Chanceliere — Breasts 
of grouse dressed in a crown, with small quenelles 
of veal in the center, and game sauce. Salade aux 
Grouses— The joints masked with a salmis sauce 
and aspic (chaudfroid sauce). Dressed on a salad 
with mayonnaise sauce, garnish with eggs, beets, 
etc. Broiled Grouse on Toast —Split down the 
back, flattened with the cleaver, trimmed a little, 
salted and peppered, broiled rare; served on dry toast 
with maitre d'hotel butter, cress and lemons. 
Grouse au Fumet —Roasted grouse cut up from 
the bones; the bones broken and stewed in espa- 
gnole, with aromatics and sherry to make the sauce 
which is pressed through a napkin by twisting. 
Served on slices of fried bread with sauce over. 
Grouse au Chasseur — Grouse roasted, cut up, 
served with chasseur sauce made of 1 pt. espagnole, 
y 2 pt. tomato sauce, shallots half fried in butter, 
few mushrooms, parsley, lemon juice. Grouse 
with Prune Sauce —Roasted grouse served with 
sauce made by stewing prunes in red wine and add¬ 
ing them to espagnole. {See game, prairie hens.) 

GRUYLRE—One of the French cheeses often 
named in cooking directions; next best to Parmesan 
for cooking purposes, and eaten at table. Not 
choice, only foreign. 

GUANA—In Central America and the West In¬ 
dies the great tree-lizards called guanas form a 
really important part of the food of the poorer people. 
They prepare it by cleaning and scraping it, then 
roasting it in a hole in the ground. “A more civil¬ 
ized fashion is a fricassee, with tomatoes and pep¬ 
pers a la Creole. The similarity of the white and 
tender flesh to chicken is noted by everybody, and 
there are few persons who do not find it highly 
toothsome. ‘We caught more in the same way,’ 
says an antiquated author, after an entertaining de¬ 
scription of a guana hunt, ‘and kept one alive seven 
or eight days; but it grieved me to the heart to find 
that he thereby lost much delicious fat.’ The old 
writer was a monk, and spoke with feeling.” 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


337 


GUA 

GUAVA—A fruit of the West Indies and Florida; 
the tree is a species of myrtle, grows to a height of 
20 feet. The fruit (about the size and shape of a fig) 
has an agreeable flavor, and is made into preserves 
and jelly. Guava Jelly —Possesses a peculiar fine 
flavor and very little acidity; it is more of a sweet¬ 
meat than a relish, yet is served both with meats 
and cakes. 

GUILLEMOTS—The Normandy peasants make 
an excellent salmi from guillemots—the despised 
sea-crows of the Scotch—which is equal to wood¬ 
cock, and superior to hare in flavor. Served with 
red wine, guillemot is a dish for a gourmet; but the 
people find the birds very good without such addi¬ 
tion. 

GUINEA FOWL—Is cooked as partridge, for 
which it occasionally serves as a substitute; is often 
sent to market in dressed lots mixed with chickens, 
but being darker fleshed should not be cooked with 
them; but is most excellent by its own name. It is 
the best substitute for game when game is out of 
season. It has two names in French. Pintade 
RoTi-Roast Guinea fowl; the breast and legs larded, 
roasted under cover of buttered paper; served with 
cress in the dish, and brown gravy separately. 
Roast Guinea fowls are sometimes served with let¬ 
tuce salad and apple fritters. Pintade a la Bear- 
naise —Guinea fowl roasted and served with Bear- 
naise sauce. Gelinotte Piquee —Larded Guinea 
hen. Gelinotte Bardee —Guinea hen wrapped in 
slices of fat pork, and baked. 

GUINEA PIG—The cavy; a tame animal about 
the size of the opossum, kept as a pet by some peo¬ 
ple; good for food, and something like the opossum 
in taste. “F. Z. S. writes: I do not wish it to be 
supposed that I recommend the cavy as a cheap food, 
but rather for its delicious flavor and recherche qual¬ 
ity. It may, no doubt, be sometimes grown at small 
expense, but I look upon it as being so valuable for 
the table as to make it worthy both of trouble and 
expense in its cultivation. Think of its value in the 
game course when game is out of season; of the value 
of its tender flesh and gelatinous skin in the feeding 
of invalids and convalescents, and of the vast num¬ 
ber of ways in which a clever cook could utilize it. 
Probably there are few recipes for made dishes, 
either of rabbit or game, that would not be appli¬ 
cable to cavy. I consider the smooth-haired white 
cavy the best adapted for the table, on account of the 
whiteness of its skin.” 

GULL—There are many of the commoner kinds 
of sea-gulls that taste delicious in a pie when prop¬ 
erly cooked. It is only prejudice that keeps people 
from eating them. 

GUMBO FILE (Creole-Fr.)—Dried gumbo. 

GUMBO SOUP — A specialty of the southern 
states; creole dish; soup thickened and flavored with 
okra or gumbo, either in its green state or dried and 
powdered. Chicken Gumbo a la Creole —Pieces 
of chicken fried in butter with chopped onion and 


GUM 

little ham; when fried light brown, some flour stirred 
in, and broth by degrees; bunch of parsley, salt, 
white pepper, sweet chili pepper; to each quart a 
heaping tablespoonful of gumbo powder dredged in 
carefully to avoid lumps; and taken from fire at once. 
Served with boiled rice separately. Oyster Gumbo- 
Started by frying onion and salt pork in butter; flour 
added, little white wine, broth, water, peppers, pars¬ 
ley, thyme, oysters, and liquor; gumbo powder to 
thicken; served with rice. Crab GuMBO-Same .gen¬ 
eral method with crabs cut in pieces; soft-shell crabs 
preferred; served with rice. Shrimp GuMBO-Large 
shrimps husked from their coats, fried with onions 
and salt pork in butter; flour, broth, white wine, 
water, parsley, green pepper, salt; gumbo powder to 
thicken; not boiled after gumbo is in; served with 
boiled rice. 

GUM—Four or five kinds of gum are used In con¬ 
fectionery and syrups. Gum Syrup —The French¬ 
man who asks for absinthe in your establishment 
probably asks for gcmme. This means that he 
wants about half his lotion to consist of sirop de 
gonline. Now sirop de gomme, or gum arabic 
syrup, is not generally procurable and I want to tell 
you how to make it for yourself. French Weights 
and Measures —Wash 500 grammes (1 lb. 1 3-5 oz.) 
of white gum-arabic. Dissolve it in a covered jar 
in a pint of cold water, stirring it frequently; then 
strain it through a linen strainer. Dissolve 2 kilos 
of sugar (4 lb. 6)4 oz) in 2 litres of lukewarm water 
( 3 % pints); place the bowl containing the liquefied 
sugar on the fire, skim carefully, and let it cook for 
about three minutes; then add the liquid gum, and 
let the mixture boil until about the consistency of 
strong liquid gum. Cool and bottle. Gum Arabic 
—Since the war in the Soudan gum arabic has been 
very scarce; and the Germans in America are turn¬ 
ing their attention to provide a substitute. The 
latest is the following: Twenty parts of powdered 
sugar are boiled with seven parts of fresh milk, and 
this is then mixed with fifty parts of a 36 per cent, 
solution of silicate of sodium, the mixture being 
then cooled at 122 Fahr., and poured into tin boxes, 
where granular masses will gradully separate out, 
which look very much like pieces of gum arabic. 
This artificial gum copiously and instantly reduces 
Fehling’s solution, so that if mixed with powdered 
gum arabic as an adulterant its presence could be 
easily detected. Gum Drops—A confection made 
of gum and sugar; also of glucose, dextrine and 
sugar. Common Gum Drops— Made of 50 lbs. su¬ 
gar, 25 lbs. glucose, 9 lbs. starch, 1 oz. each cream 
tartar and tartaric acid. Starch mixed with water 
till like cream; sugar made into syrup of 33 degrees, 
and when boiling, starch stirred into it; glucose 
then added; boiled 3 1 / 2 hours; acid added, and flavor. 
Run into starch moulds, dried in a hot closet 2 days, 
tossed in granulated sugar. (See Fig Paste.) Gumc 
Benzoin —Gum from an East Indian tree; used, dis¬ 
solved in alcohol, to varnish chocolate candies of all 
sorts to make them glossy. Gum Tragacantii — 




338 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


GUM 

A gum which dissolves slowly in water and becomes 
like flour paste; is used mixed with sugar to make 
white ornaments for bride’s cakes. Gum Dragon- 
Another name for tragacanth. Gum Paste— For 
cake-ornaments; made by putting 4 oz. white gum 
tragacanth in a bowl with 1 pt. warm water to soak 
for 24hours, or until it is all dissolved; then forced 
through a towel by twisting. The gum is then 
rubbed with the hand on a marble slab for 10 min¬ 
utes; fine powdered sugar added by degrees while 
the rubbing with the hand is continued until 3 lbs. 
sugar has been worked in and the paste is white and 
tough; to be kept in a jar till needed for use. If for 
making flowers, about 2 lbs. fine starch and % lb. 
sugar are worked into \ x / 2 lb. of the stock mixture in 
the jar. If for pressing into moulds for leaf orna¬ 
ments, 2 lbs. sugar and 1 lb. starch are worked into 
2 lbs. of the jar stock; one drop of blue coloring to 
be mixed in. Gum-Paste Flowers — Are made 
with the fingers and a set of small bone tools about 
the size of a piece of pencil adapted to form cups and 
hollows in the paste and to roll it to leaf-like thin¬ 
ness in the palm of the hand; a pair of scissors is 
used to cut the edges, and a toothpick stuck in a 
board to stick the flowers on to dry. Stamens are 
procured from the artificial millinery flower makers, 
and a little painting is done on the leaves. Roses 
are made by a leaf at a time rolled and shaped in 
starch in the palm of the hand and 20 or 30 of them 
fastened on a core or bud already dry on its stick. 
Gum-Paste Leaves —These and various patterns 
and designs are made by piping the design in cake¬ 
icing on oiled glass, bordering it with putty and 
making a mould from it by pouring on melted brim- I 
stone; this takes in the icing pattern, which can be 
dissolved out in water. Into this the gum paste is 
afterwards pressed, thus getting the icing pattern 
from the brimstone mould reproduced in gum paste. 
A piece of lace bobinet is stuck upon the back of the 
pattern before it is lifted. 

GUM FOR CHEW ING-The best is plain spruce 
gum as it exudes from the trees in Maine and Can¬ 
ada. Additions of sugar and flavoring are made; 
and adulterations with parrafine are practiced by 
different manufacturers, but there is no other stand¬ 
ard but the plain gum conveniently wrapped for 
handling. 

GURNET or GURNARD— A sea-fish common 
in France and England. Grondin Farci au Four- 
Gurnet stuffed and baked. Filets de Grondins 
en Matelote— Sides of gurnet breaded and fried; 
served with matelote sauce. 

H. 

HACHIS (Fr.)—Hash. Haciiis de Venaison— 
Hashed venison. 

HADDOCK — Well-known sea fish, nearly re¬ 
sembling the cod; of smaller size, however, and 
marked with black thumb spots on the shoulders, 
whence the legend that this is the fish which the 


HAL 

apostle took up and found the penny in its mouth to 
pay the tribute to Ciesar with; the mark of his fin¬ 
gers remains. Haddock in old Rome — Pliny 
says: “The haddock, like the sturgeon, was sur¬ 
rounded with the ridiculous honors of an almost 
divine pomp. It was served interwoven with gar¬ 
lands, and trumpeters accompanied the slaves who, 
with uncovered heads and foreheads crowned with 
flowers, brought to the guests this dish, the merit 
of which was, perhaps, exaggerated by capricious 
fancies.” Scotch Rizzer’d Haddie — A fresh 
haddock cooked as follows: Rub the fish well in¬ 
side and out with salt, hang it up by the head in the 
open air for twenty-four hours, skin it, dust it with 
flour, pepper and salt, and broil over a clear fire. 
Fillets of Haddock — Fresh haddock cut into 
strips, seasoned, rolled in flour, then in egg-and- 
cracker dust, fried, served with sauce and cut 
lemons. Smoked Haddock— See Finnan haddies. 
Haddock Souffle— Boiled salt haddock (like salt 
cod) pounded in a mortar, rubbed through a seive; 
to y 2 lb. of the fish puree 3 yolks are added, then the 
whites whipped to froth; the mixture is then baked 
in cases or cups; sent to table soon as done, while 
soft and light. Smoked Haddock Sandwich— 
Boiled smoked haddock picked from the bones and 
run through a sausage machine, mixed with % as 
much hot butter, cayenne, salt, anchovy essence 
added, spread on sandwiches. Merluche Grillee 
—Broiled haddock. Merluche Farcie —Haddock 
stuffed and baked, served with brown sauce. Mer¬ 
luche Sauce aux GDufs— Haddock boiled, with 
egg sauce. Merluche a la Hollandaise — 
Boiled haddock with Hollandaise sauce. 

HAGGIS—See Scottish cookery. 

HAKE—Hake is an English “ west-country ” 
fish, often sold under the name of white salmon. 
It is a cheap fish and not very highly esteemed; 
cooked in same ways as halibut. 

HALIBUT — Flat fish of the turbot family; 
reaches a very large size, sometimes weighing as 
much as 100 lbs. It is commonly cut into steaks. 
Halibut is sometimes offered for turbot, which is a 
dearer fish, but it may be distinguished by looking 
at the spots on the back, the halibut being without 
spots. Boiled Halibut — A thick cut boiled in 
water containing salt and vinegar, simmered 40 
minutes; drained, served on a folded napkin, gar¬ 
nished with parsley; cream sauce in a bowl. Hali¬ 
but a la Cordon Bleu — Halibut steaks like 
larded grenadines of veal, but larded in colors with 
strips of anchov}', green peppers, lemon rind, and 
eel, simmered in wine stock, glazed with the re¬ 
duced liquor; sauce and garnishings. Scalloped 
Halibut au Parmesan — Thin halibut steaks 
simmered in butter with onion, salt, pepper and 
nutmeg, then taken up and cream sauce made in 
the same saucepan, with yolks and grated cheese 
added; the fish placed in layers in a baking dish 
with sauce between and crumbs and grated cheese 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


339 


HAM 

on top, and butter; baked brown. Crimped Hali¬ 
but —Strips of halibut cut from the fish as soon as 
killed and immediately thrown into ice-water and 
allowed to remain for some time. This makes the 
fish firm and flakey. It is boiled in salted water, 
and served with caper or other fish sauce. Baked 
Halibut with Cream -A dish of picked halibut 
meat in cream sauce, .with chopped mushrooms, 
bread-crumbed on top and browned. Fried Hali¬ 
but, Tomato Sauce —Slices dipped in milk, then 
in flour, fried light brown; sauce in a bowl. Hali¬ 
but Pie — Same ways as eel pie and other pies. 
Halibut a la Chambord —Halibut steaks larded 
through and through with mushroom stalks cut in 
strips and shreds of cucumbers and anchovies; 
brushed over with lemon juice, let stand an hour 
■or two. Then dipped in flour, cooked macaroni 
laid on in cross-bars; egged over the top, baked in 
buttered pan. Decorated with mushrooms, lemons, 
beets, parsley; thick brown sauce piquante. 

HAM — “Tiie Ham Fair -Every spring is held, 
on the Boulevard Richard Lenoir, at Paris, the ham 
fair, which fills the air with the odor of bacon. A 
double row of booths runs along the boulevard. 
Between bouquets of laurel are suspended cakes of 
dripping, sausages dry as marble, and smoked hams; 
large basins of lard stand about; smoked garlic-fla¬ 
vored sausages and other similar dainties are heaped 
up mountain high. Behind the exhibits are gathered 
whole families of country folk; the wife wears a 
large white apron, the husband walks about with 
knife in hand, inviting everybody to try his goods. 
The ham fair which has just been held is said to have 
been better supplied than it has been for years. 
Lyons and Ar es sent the finest specimens of pork, 
and Bayonne was, as usual, represented by its fam¬ 
ous hams. Garlic sausages represented the town of 
Vire, and from the district of the Loire, from Italy 
and Switzerland, the products wei-e excellent.”— 
Steamed Ham —Steaming is by far the best way 
of cooking a ham. Lay in cold water for 12 hours; 
wash very thoroughly, rubbing with a stiff brush to 
dislodge the salt and smoke on the outside. Put into 
a steamer, cover closely, and set it over a pot of boil¬ 
ing water. Allow at least 20 minutes to a pound. 
Keep the water at a hard boil. Spinach or some 
green vegetable should be served with it. Roast 
Ham —Soak the ham for 12 hours in water, place it 
in a deep dish or earthenware pan, and soak for 24 
hours in white wine, seasoned with sliced onions, 
carrots, parsley, laurel-leaves, and thyme; cover the 
pan with a cloth, and press on the lid very tight to 
prevent the air getting in. Roast the ham, baste 
with the wine in which it was soaked. When suffici¬ 
ently done, dish it on a puree of spinach. Boiled 
Ham —“Brush the ham thoroughly with a dry brush, 
removing every particle of dust or mould. Soak for 
an hour in cold water, and then wash thoroughly. 
With a very sharp knife shave off cleanly the hard¬ 
ened surface from the face and butt of the ham. Put 
it over the fire in cold water and let it come to a 


HAM 

moderate boil and keep it steadily at this point, al¬ 
lowing it to cook 20 minutes for every pound of meat. 
A ham weighing 12 lbs. will need to boil 4 hours. 
This time should never be cut short; on smaller hams 
it should rather be extended. The ham is to be served 
cold; allow the joint to remain in the pot after it is 
removed from the fire for several hours, until the 
water in which it has been cooked is cold. Then dish 
as before suggested.” After a ham has been sim¬ 
mered it is a great improvement to put it in a mod¬ 
erately warm oven, with a buttered paper over it, 
and bake for an hour. This is a Yorkshire custom, 
and a good one. Cook-Shop Ham— At the ham- 
and-beef shops, which constitute one of the catering 
features of London, the following method of boiling 
hams is adopted with excellent results: The hams 
are always placed in cold water in a copper, under 
which a small fire is made, which raises the water 
very slowly to the boiling point. The moment this 
is accomplished the fire is raked out, the copper cov¬ 
ered over, and the hams are allowed to remain in the 
water until it is nearly cold. By this means the flesh 
is rendered tender and juicy, and the loss of weight 
is guarded against. Prize-Ham Curing — The 
following is the method of curing hams that re¬ 
ceived the prize at a New England fair: To every 
hundred pounds of meat take eight pounds of salt, 
two ounces of saltpetre, two pounds brown sugar, 
and one and a quarter ounces potash and four gallons 
water. Mix them and pour the liquids over the hams 
after they have been in the tub two days, they hav¬ 
ing been rubbed with fine salt when put in the tub. 
They should remain in this pickle six weeks, then 
taken out, hung up three days to dry, and smoked. 
Fried Ham for Breakfast— Is particularly nice 
when the slices are cut the night before and are al¬ 
lowed to soak all night in a cup of water into which 
a tablespoonful of sugar has been added. This 
softens the meat and removes excessive saltness. 
Devilled Ham —Cut slices of cold ham, fry in their 
own fat, and when done arrange in a hot dish. Keep 
warm while you add to the gravy a teaspoonful of 
made mustard, a good pinch of pepper, a saltspoon- 
ful of white sugar, and three tabiespoonsful of vin¬ 
egar. Mix these well together before stirring into 
the gravy; heat all to a sharp boil, pour over the ham, 
and let it stand, covered, for a minute before sending 
to the table. There is nothing more appetizing than 
this dish. Ham Cooked in Cider— Always cook a 
ham in cider when you can get it. Boil three hours 
and bake three, using also the cider to baste with. 
The apple seems the natural accompaniment of pork. 
Always scrub the ham well before boiling. Ham 
Glace, Champagne Sauce —(/) A ham pared, and 
soaked for 24 hours in water containing a little vin¬ 
egar, then covered up in a sheet of plain flour-and- 
water paste, and baked 4 hours; glazed, and served 
with champagne sauce. (2) A ham pared, soaked 
for 12 hours, boiled 1 hour, covered with a mirepoix 
or sauce consisting of fried onions and herbs 
moistened with wine, then inclosed in a sheet of 




340 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


HAM 

plain paste, and baked 3 or 4 hours; glazed, and 
served with champagne sauce. Jambon d’York— 
A Yorkshire ham, or ham served in Yorkshire style* 
It is pared, soaked for 12 hours in water, boiled an 
hour, the rind removed; roasted or baked 2 hours, 
glazed with the gravy and a dust of sugar, the hock 
pared, and a paper-ruffle put around the bone; served 
with Yorkshire-ham sauce. Jambo^ a la Broche- 
Ham roasted on a spit. Jambon a la Maillot— 
Ham braised in wine, served with vegetables and 
Madeira sauce. Jambon Westphalienne —West¬ 
phalia in Germany is famous for a brand of small 
hams. Jambon Glace a la Jardiniere— A ham 
baked, glazed, and garnished with various vegeta¬ 
bles separately stewed in butter and glazed. Ham 
Garnish —For filling potato or rice borders, casse¬ 
roles, croustades, etc., is made by cutting ham in 
large dice, button onions same size as the ham pieces 
fried with them; butter and flour and broth made 
into sauce, and green peas added. Croutons of 
Ham —Chopped ham, chives, parsley, butter, cay¬ 
enne, yolk; stirred up over the fire; served on fried 
bread. Minced Ham on Toast —Like the preced¬ 
ing; the seasonings of the ham may be varied with 
catsups, mustard, and bottle sauces. Ham Cro¬ 
quettes —Made of 1 cup ham, 2 cups dry mashed 
potato, 1 cup bread-crumbs, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 
egg, pepper; made in balls, breaded, fried. Ham 
Fritters —Minced ham, bread-crumbs, and egg to 
moisten; made in pats or balls, dipped in batter and 
fried. Ham Cake —Remains of ham pounded in a 
mortar with butter, shaped in a mould, turned out 
and eaten cold; or mixed with crumbs and egg it 
makes small ham-cakes to fry and serve hot. Ham 
a la Royal—A fancy ornamental dish for ball sup¬ 
pers, etc. Thin fine slices of lean cooked ham are 
rolled into cylinder-shapes, fastened with melted 
gelatine, set on end when cold, and filled with 
whipped cream containing gelatine to set it and cel¬ 
ery-salt for flavor; garnished with green leaves and 
jelly. 

HAMBURG BEEF—Beef cured in a salt pickle 
with spices and herbs; spiced beef. 

HAMBURG STEAK—Beef sausage meat con¬ 
taining minced onion and a slight flavor of garlic, 
formed in flat round pats and fried in butter; served 
either as plain steak for breakfast, or with various 
sauces as a dinner entree. 

HANCHE DE MOUTON (Fr.) —Haunch of 
mutton. 

HAND GRENADES—For extinguishing fires. 
They are thin bottles filled with a chemical liquid 
said to consist of 4 oz. carb. soda, 2 oz. alum, 2 oz. 
borax, 1 oz. pearl ash, 1 lb. solution of silicate of 
soda, 1 gal. water; corked in easily broken bottles 
which are thrown into the flames if fire breaks out. 

HANOVER BUNS—Small round rolls or rusks, 
made of 1 lb. flour, 1 oz. yeast, pt. warm milk, 6 
oz. butter, 2 oz. sugar, 4 yolks, rind of y 2 lemon; 
fermented and worked like bread. 


HAR 

HARE—Hares are not found in the United States,, 
unless it be in California, but a great many come to- 
our markets both from England and Canada, anti 
their peculiar gamy flavor renders them generally 
great favorites. They are very fine eating where 
young, and very bad indeed when old. Examine 
the ears; if they tear easily, the hare is young and 
delicate, and if the body is still stiff, it is in good 
condition; but never buy a limp hare. The ears of 
a hare are considered a great delicacy; they require 
scalding and careful cleaning, and must be closely 
watched for fear they will burn. American Hare. 
—Is known as jack-rabbit. It abounds in Colorado 
and throughout the plains country; is remarkable 
when dressed for the excess of blood yielded by the 
meat, and would well fill the requirements for Scotch 
hare soup on that account. Hare Soup —The chief 
ingredient of Scotch hare soup is the blood of the 
animal, which must be properly utilized; therefore- 
let every drop of it be carefully preserved by the 
cook. A snared hare or a coursed hare is better for 
soup than one from which the blood has escaped. 
The hare is cut in joints, steeped in a little coldT 
water to draw the blood; the best pieces of meat 
saved to boil in the soup, the bones and rough pieces- 
boiled in beef stock with celery, carrot and turnip- 
for 3 hours. Strained, the blood added, and all 
stirred over the fire till it boils again, then let boil 
2 hours more with the pieces of hare in it, and sea¬ 
sonings. Grated potato added for thickening. 
Puree of Hare a l’Anglaise —The hare is cut 
up and the blood saved; the pieces fried with liver, 
onion, carrot and butter; mushrooms, spices, herbs- 
added, and stock, all stewed tender; pieces of hare 
meat pounded through a seive, mixed with starch 
and the blood, stirred in the strained stock over the- 
fire till it thickens. Served with forcemeat balls or 
quenelles. Lievre en Daube— Jugged hare; the 
hare boned, the bones and head pounded and stewed 
in broth and wine, with vegetables; the hare placed 
in a jar lined with slices of bacon, seasoned, the- 
bone liquor poured in, bacon on top, baked in a 
slow oven 4 hours; served in the jar. Civet de. 
Lievre —Another name for jugged hare; stewed 
hare. Lievre Saute —A hare cut in pieces, fried' 
in butter, served in sauce made of the butter with 
flour, wine and mushrooms. Filets de Lievre— 
The fleshy strips from the back fried and dressed in 
a circle with brown sauce. Filets de Lievre Pi¬ 
ques, Sauce Tomato —Fillets of hare larded and 
braised, served with tomato sauce. Filets de 
Lievre Piques a la Bourguignotte— Fillets cut 
in halves, larded and braised; dressed in a crown 
with brown sauce, bacon cut in dice, young onions, 
button mushrooms and wine. Cotelettes de 
Lievre a la Dauphine — Hare cutlets; slices off 
the fillets, with a small bone stuck in each to imitate 
a lamb chop; breaded and fried. Piquante sauce 
and chopped olives. Turban de Lievre a la 
Peronne— Hare cutlets arranged in a circle alter¬ 
nately with quenelles of forcemeat of hare (like epi- 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


341 


HAR 

gramme of fowl); white sauce with vinegar, pickled 
onions, etc. Boudins de Lievre— Rolls of force¬ 
meat of hare bread-crumbed and browned—a vari¬ 
ation of rissoles or croquettes of hare. Roast Hare 
—“Opinions are divided as to the propriety of roast¬ 
ing a hare; and we must say that a civet de lievre a 
la Francaise, or even the English jugged hare, are 
better forms of eating a hare, if it be not true that 
hares were solely invented to be made into soup, as 
we have heard Scotchmen say. If, however, you 
ivill roast your hare, you should lard him very 
thickly all over the back and thighs. He should be 
basted plentifully and continuously with butter, and 
he should not be overdone.” Lievre en Gite— 
Potted hare; jugged hare. “In France we have 
tureen-gites, made for the purpose; they are very 
appropriate, the cover representing a hare lying at 
rest.” Boned hare in a suitable tureen or jar packed 
with bacon-slices, sausage meat, aromatics, wine, 
and strong broth made from the bones; baked 3 hrs.; 
served cold in the jar or tureen. 

HARICOTS (Fr.)—Beans. Haricots Blancs- 
Navy beans. Haricots VERTS-String beans. Ha¬ 
ricots F lageolets —See Flageolets. 

HARICOT—A mutton stew with vegetables; 
brown. (See Navarin.) 

HASH—Various contrivances with cooked meat; 
generally small pieces in a brown gravy. Corned- 
Beef Hash —(/) Corned beef chopped small and 
mixed with mashed potatoes, smoothed over in a 
pan, buttered, and baked brown. (2) Minced corned 
beef and minced potatoes with an onion, salt and 
pepper simmered in a little broth and stirred around 
till partly thickened; served out of the saucepan, 
sprinkled with parsley. French Hash —Minced 
onion, butter and flour fried together, water to make 
sauce of it, small pieces of beef thrown in; when 
hot, two yolks stirred in, and glass of wine, and sea¬ 
soning. Hachis a la Toulousaine- -Hash balls or 
croquettes of beef made by mincing cooked beef and 
adding boiled calf’s brains and yolks enough to 
make a paste of it; seasoned with acnhovy essence^ 
salt, pepper, spices; balled up, breaded, fried; tomato 
sauce. 

HATELET (Fr.)—Skewer; same as atelet and 
brochette ; generally, however, used to designate the 
silver skewers used for the decoration of cooked 
meats. 

HAWK—A Texas sportsman has pronounced 
hawk to be excellent food. He found the smell 
“exceedingly comforting,” and, though rather rich, 
hawk was “tender, of a gamey, very good flavor, 
peculiar to itself, and entirely different to that of any 
other bird I ever ate,” he writes. 

HEAVENLY HASH—“The curious name for 
the newest American fashionable dish: Oranges, 
bananas, lemons, apples, raisins, and pineapples are 
cut up into little bits, worked just enough to thicken 
their juices, and then served with a grated nutmeg. 
But the serving is the pretty part. Cut a hole large | 


HER 

enough to admit a spoon in the stem end of an or¬ 
ange, which you empty, then fill with the hash, and 
serve on a little glass fruit-dish with lemon or or¬ 
ange leaves. 

HEAD CHEESE—Cold dish made of pig’s head 
boiled with seasonings; cut in pieces, stewed down 
again with the strained liquor, and either allowed to 
set in the liquor, which is a firm jelly when cold, 
or pressed into a solid cake. Collared bravj 7 i y col¬ 
lared rind and fromage de cochon are other names of 
the same dish, the ingredients being slightly varied 
with other odds and ends of meat. 

HEDGEHOG—A correspondent says that he can 
from experience safely recommend a hedgehog 
stewed in milk as a real delicacy. It is well known 
that roast hedgehog is a favorite dish with English 
gypsies. “Hedgehog is good, at least for a change, 
and it used to be well cooked in a small tavern in the 
Ghetto of Rome, to which artists frequently resorted 
when their spirits were high and their funds low. 
According to an aged South Italian sportsman, they 
should be killed in the woods and immediately 
skinned, then allowed to hang for a few hours, and, 
after being trussed with their own quills, be roasted 
before a sharp fire. The stuffing should be made of 
their own fat, finely chopped with bread-crumbs 
and such seasoning as suits the cook’s taste.” 

HELENA PUDDING —A rich bread-custard 
pudding baked with jam in the bottom of the dish. 

HELL-BENDER—The hell-bender was first on 
the list of piscatorial delicacies at a fish dinner. It 
was pronounced equal to the finest salmon, but only 
the President and the favored few had a chance to 
eat of it. It is a higher form of lizard, is about a 
foot long, is as flat as a pancake, and of a dirty mud 
color, while a funny little fringe that stands out 
horizontally runs all the way lengthwise around its 
body. The head is heart-shaped, and it has wicked 
little black eyes like beads. Its four stumpy legs 
end in white toes. It is called by scientific gentle¬ 
men the Menapoma Alleghenie?tsis, and is a sala¬ 
mander. When you plague it with a stick ever so 
gently, it humps its back like a Mexican mustang, 
standing perfectly still on the tips of its white toes. 
It is said that a hell-bender will seize a stick in a 
person’s hand, and will hang on while it is carried a 
mile. 

HERRING—There is a fresh water herring abun¬ 
dant in Lake Superior; its fins however show it to 
be allied to the salmon family; it is white fleshed 
and the fillets are boneless, like brook trout. The 
Sea Herring is one of the most abundant fishes, 
but its season is so short that fresh herring is a lux¬ 
ury while it lasts. Fresh Herring with Mus¬ 
tard Sauce— Soft roed herrings, the sides scored 
with a knife, soaked a while in oil, salt and pepper, 
broiled, served with white sauce with mustard stir¬ 
red in. Fresh Herring with Onions —In the Isle 
of Man and other great herring localities we have 
seen fried onions served as an accompaniment to 






342 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


HIP 

fried herring and shad, and it is so generally appre¬ 
ciated that we think those who have not thought of 
the combination might try it without fear of a dis¬ 
appointment. After the fish are fried, they should be 
laid on a soft cloth before the fire, and turned every 
two of three minutes, till dry on both sides. It is 
well to keep old linen table-cloths to cut up for this 
purpose. Red Herrings and Bloaters —The her¬ 
ring house is a lofty shed, about Jthirty or forty feet 
high, divided into compartments by racks or hori¬ 
zontal bars of wood, across which the wooden spits, 
loaded with herrings, are laid as close as possible, 
from the top of the house to wiihin six feet of the 
floor. A fire of oak-wood, or billets, as they are 
called, is then kindled beneath them, and is allowed 
to burn some six or seven hours. This is called a 
blow, from the effect it has in distending the skin of 
the fish. In order perfectly to cure the herrings, 
they must be subjected to ten or twelve such blows, 
Dr firings, an interval elapsing between each, to al¬ 
low the fat and oil to drip from them, so that the pro¬ 
cess of making a red-herring occupies six or seven 
days. The bloaters, or blown herrings, are sub¬ 
jected to only one firing, and are much less dry. 
These are intended for immediate consumption, and, 
of course, do not require so long a time for curing. 
Red Herring on Horseback —In former days in 
England, it was the unbroken custom to serve, at 
certain seasons, a particular dish first; as a boar’s 
head at Christmas, a goose at Michaelmas, a gam¬ 
mon of bacon, or a “red herring riding away on 
horseback” at Easter. This last was after the like¬ 
ness of a man on horseback set in a corn salad. 
Baked Herrings —Fresh herrings twisted in a 
round, placed in a deep pie dish with vinegar, pep¬ 
per and a bay leaf; baked 45 minutes, served with 
the liquor. Herring Pancakes —Smoked herrings 
picked from the bone, cut small, mixed in pancake 
batter, cooled as batter-cakes. Hareng Grilles, 
Sauce Moutarde —Broiled herrings with mustard 
sauce. Harengs a la Creme —Fresh herrings 
Foiled, and served with cream sauce with butter and 
lemon juice. Harengs Fumes a la Bruxelloise 
—Boneless sides of smoked herrings broiled in a 
paper case with a layer of stuffing between them. 
Croquettes de Harengs —Smoked herrings broil¬ 
ed, made into balls with potatoes same as codfish 
balls. 

HIPPOPOTAMUS—Hippopotamus fat is con¬ 
sidered a treat; when cured it is thought superior to 
Durbest breakfast bacon; and the flesh is both pala¬ 
table and nutritious, the fat being used for all the 
ordinary uses of butter. 

HISTORIE ee (Fr.)—Decorated with small fig¬ 
ures. 

HODGE-PODGE SOUP—Common English for 
Hotch-Potch, a mixture; mutton soup thick with 
pieces of meat and all sorts of vegetables. {See Hot- 
Pot.') 

HOKEY-POKEY ICE CREAM—Italian Occhi- ' 


HON 

Pocchi —mixed colors and flavors of ice cream in 
cakes; one form of biscuitsg laces or ice cakes. 

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE—A yellow sauce 
served with boiled fish, cauliflower and asparagus, 
made by boiling 3 tablespoons vienegar with salt 
and white pepper till half reduced; cooled with a 
spoonful of cold water, 4 yolks beaten in, then ]/ 2 lb. 
butter in bits, stirred over the fire till the yolks thick¬ 
en it but not boil. 

HOMARD—(Fr.) —Lobster. Pot age de Ho- 
mard— Lobster soup. Cotelettes de Homard— 
Lobster cutlets, or croquettes in cutlet shapes. 

HOMINY—Is grains of Indian corn freed from 
the outer covering of bran, and therefore is white. 
There are three or four different grades as to size, 
from the coarse hominy, as large as peas down to 
the white meal known as hominy grits or samp. 
It is very cheap food; usually only 2 or 3 cents per 
pound by the barrel. The large hominy is used as 
a vegetable, like rice; and after boiling quite tender 
it is fried and served for breakfast. Fried Homi¬ 
ny —The form of fried hominy that is served with 
canvas-back ducks a la Maryland, is fine hominy 
well boiled, sliced in shapes when cold, rolled in 
flour or corn meal and fried. Hominy Grits —Hot 
porridge for breakfast or supper, made of fine hom¬ 
iny soaked in water several hours; boiled or cooked 
in a double kettle for 2 or 3 hours, served with milk 
or cream. Hominy Pudding —Made the same ways 
as rice puddings. Hominy Fritters— (/) Coarse 
hominy well cooked, stirred into enough flour bat¬ 
ter to hold it together, spoonfuls dropped into hot 
lard and fried brown. {2) Fine hominy porridge, 
with eggs, sugar, and little flour beaten in; spoon¬ 
fuls dropped in hot lard and fried brown. Hominy' 
Croquettes —Fine hominy porridge mixed with 
grated cheese, eggs and little flour, rolled up when 
cold and stiff, egged, breaded, fried. Hominy and 
Cheese —Cooked hominy of either kind made up 
with cheese, baked brown. Lye Hominy' or 
Hulled Corn —Indian corn steeped in water con¬ 
taining lye or potash till it swells and the skin is 
partly dissolved, washed and either boiled with 
milk, or fried. 

HONEY—Buyers and consumers of honej r will 
do well to note that the suspiciously light and bright 
product, variously labelled “ Californian Honey 
Dew,” “Swiss Table Honey,” etc., etc., is frequent¬ 
ly a sophisticated article made up of glucose and 
such-like substances brightened by mineral acid. 
Furthermore, darkness is no indication of inferior 
quality, as some suppose. The color of honey de¬ 
pends upon the sources from which it is collected by 
the bees, and much of that which is of a dark color 
is quite equal (and in some cases superior) to that 
which is light in color; honey collected by the bees 
from white clover, limes, fruit blossoms, sainfoin, 
hawthorn, turnip, bean, heather, etc., being of dif¬ 
ferent hues. Honey- in the Comb—Is offered for 
sale almost everywhere in the season, and is the best 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


343 


HOP 

to serve in place of fruit for supper and of syrup 
for breakfast. Honey Mead —A kind of wine. 
(See Mead.') Honey Cake— Made of x qt. strained 
honey, i lb. sugar, % lb. warm butter, a tablespoon 
soda, 2 tablespoons cai-away seeds, flour enough to 
make into dough. Made up and baked like sheet 
gingerbread. 

HOPS—Needed by the baker to make yeast with. 
They will not make yeast alone but mixed with 
mashed potatoes and scalded flour or any kind of 
meal they strengthen the fermentation and prevent 
sourness. Can be purchased in packages pressed. 
About 4 oz. to each pailful is required. Hop Beer— 
Hops boiled in water and molasses or sugar added 
to the water after straining, some yeast stirred in 
when cool, ferments and makes beer in a few days. 

HORLY OR ORLY—It is spelled both ways by 
equally good authorities, is supposed to be the name 
of a French admiral. Only one dish seems to carry 
that designation, consequently a la Horly always 
signifies the same thing, viz, strips of fish dipped 
in batter and fried and served with onions cut in 
rings fried dry. 

HORSE MEAT—“To revert to horse-flesh and the 
eating of it in Paris, M. Morillon has given me the 
following statistics: Thus of this flesh was con¬ 
sumed in 1SS3 something like 5,000,000lbs. and about 
6,000,000 lbs. 1SS4. Besides, there is to be added about 
2,000,000 lbs. imported into Paris, so that the total 
consumption of horse, mule, and donkey flesh in this 
city during the last year was about S,000,000 lbs. 
(eight million pounds! or four pounds per head of 
the entire population.) Now, what part of these 
•eight million pounds did I eat? Who shall say? 
Ah! who shall say? ” 

HORSERADISH—The root of a coarse-looking 
large-leaved plant which once rooted in a garden 
•corner grows and spreads year after year without 
much attention. The plentiful time for it is in 
spring, when the roots are taken up and divided for 
replanting; the great surplus of roots can then be 
grated and bottled in vinegar for use during several 
succeeding months. Grated Horseradish —There 
are small machines, being revolving graters, for re¬ 
ducing the roots to the desired fineness. Of all the 
sauces which can be made none are in so much de¬ 
mand and so generally acceptable as plain grated 
horseradish in vinegar, which should be set upon 
the table in ornamental jars or other proper recepta¬ 
cle. Adulterations —Much of the grated horse¬ 
radish purchased in bottles is weakened in strength 
by mixture with grated turnips, cabbage stalks, 
lcohl-rabi, etc., and enterprising and unscrupulous 
gardeners make immense profits during short sea¬ 
sons by putting up these fair-looking but too mild 
flavored imitations. Pure horseradish is too strong 
to be eaten extravagantly, while the adulterated ar¬ 
ticle is but a mild and palatable relish and becomes 
too costly for use at horseradish prices on account of 
the large quantity which will be consumed. It is 


HOT 

wise, therefore, to buy the root and have it grated 
on the premises. Horseradish Sauce — Grated 
horseradish boiled in broth, one or two yolks beaten 
up with some tarragon vinegar stirred into the horse¬ 
radish to thicken, but not allowed to boil; pepper 
and nutmeg added. German Horseradish Sauce- 
Grated horseradish boiled in gravy or plain water; 
yolks beaten up with cream and vinegar stirred in 
to thicken; not allowed to boil. “This sauce is in¬ 
variably served in Germany with all forms of beef, 
either broiled, roasted, or boiled.” Napolitaine 
Sauce —Horseradish in brown sauce with port wine, 
ham, Worcestershire and currant jelly. Raifort 
Sauce —Plorseradish sauce; made of 2 to 3 oz. grated 
horseradish in y pt. cream sauce and a wine-glass 
of white-wine vinegar. Horseradish Mustard— 
Horseradish boiled in water, strained out, and the 
water used to mix mustard; good condiment for beef. 
Horseradish Butter— Grated horseradish, butter 
and lemon juice kneaded together; the butter then 
rubbed through a seive; served with beefsteaks. 

HOT BREWS—Various hot drinks. Cardinal- 
Hot spiced port and burgundy mixed with water ac¬ 
cording to taste. Bishop —Hot spiced burgundy 
with roasted crab-apples floating in it—“obviously 
an antique custom, since Shakespeare makes Puck 
refer to ‘the roasted crab in the bowl,’ which the 
mischievous sprite delighted to make bob against 
the old gossips’ lips.” Mulled Wines — “For 
making mulled wines generally, it is said that you 
should take of spices five—cloves, cinnamon, allspice, 
nutmeg, and mace—boiling them in a pint of wine 
until the concoction is quite aromatic and bitter. It 
should then be bottled off and kept in store, a table¬ 
spoonful of the essence to be used for flavoring 
whatever wine is mulled. For sweetening, loaf- 
sugar is indispensable, unless prepared syrup be 
preferred.” White Wine Whey —For colds; made 
by pouring a wine-glass of cowslip-wine into y 2 pt. 
boiling milk; it immediately curdles, is strained, and 
the clear liquor sweetened is drunk hot. Lait de 
Poule —Made of 1 egg beaten up with sugar, y pt. 
hot milk poured to it, and a spoonful of brandy. 
Hot Apple Tea —For colds; sliced apples with 
sugar, boiling water poured to them, steeped; the 
liquor drunk hot. Yard of Flannel —Spiced ale 
heated nearly to boiling point (the spice being gin¬ 
ger and nutmeg), an egg or two beaten up in it, and 
sugar; poured from one large glass to another sev¬ 
eral times, drank foaming and hot. Wassail Bowl- 
Name applied to hot beer and wine, with spices and 
spirits added, in the olden time. Loving Cup— 
Any hot brew or punch was a loving cup when the 
glasses of the drinkers were clinked together and 
toasts and sentiments were pledged. Apple Toddy- 
A roasted apple in a glass, i teaspoon sugar, whisky 
enough to cover the apple, hot water to fill up. 
Punch —Whisky, brandy or rum with lemon, sugar 
and hot water. Councillor’s Cap— Made of % lb. 
loaf sugar rubbed on the rind of 2 oranges; y 2 pt. 
orange juice, juice of 1 lemon, y 2 pt. brandy, 1 pt. 





344 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


HOT 

boiling- water. Creoles Skin— Quarter glass boil¬ 
ing water, i glass black currant wine, a dash of gin. 
Merry Men —Half glass boiling water, i glass 
Irish whisky and a dash of bay rum. Red Pepper 
Skin —Half glass boiling water, i teaspoonful es¬ 
sence of capsicum or pepper sauce. Ginger Skin— 
Half glass boiling water poured on i teaspoon grated 
ginger; 15 drops essence of capsicum. 

HOT-POT—“A thousand hot-pots (made of 4,000 
lbs. of meat and 10,000 lbs. of potatoes) were dis¬ 
tributed from the bakeries of Liverpool amongst 
the poor of that city at Christmastide. Each hot-pot 
was supposed to yield ten substantial dinners.” 
Lancashire Hot-Pot— “Take an earthenware pan 
with cover, holding a quart or more. Take 1 lb. of 
potatoes, boil them three-parts, and when cold cut 
into slices. Take three sheep’s kidneys and bruise 
them to pieces in a mortar. Take 2 lbs. of cutlets 
from a neck of mutton, and pare them neatly of fat 
and skm; take 18 oysters and preserve their liquor; 
take a few mushrooms, clear them of all white, and 
mince; take salt, pepper, and curry-powder in mod¬ 
erate proportions. Now form in your pan alternate 
layers of cutlets, kidneys, potatoes, oysters, mush¬ 
rooms, salt, pepper, and curry-powder; add the oys¬ 
ter liquor; keep all gently simmering in a moderate 
oven for 3 or 4 hours. Half an hour before serving 
make a rich brown gravy with a gamey flavor, and 
add it to the above. Serve in the pan.” 

HOTCH-POTCH—French hot-pot; baked soup; 
made of 2 lbs. beef, 1 lb. sausage meat, 1 onion, 1 
cucumber, 3 tomatoes, few asparagus tops, 1 carrot, 
piece of cabbage, % cup raw rice, 2 cups green peas, 
pepper, salt, cold water. “Cut the meat small and 
put in alternate layers with the vegetables and rice 
into a stout stone jar; pour in 3 qts. of water when 
you have seasoned the vegetables; fit a close cover 
on the jar, sealing around the edges with a paste of 
flour and water; set in the oven early in the day, 
and do not open for 6hours; then pour into the tu¬ 
reen, and serve.” 

HOT SLAW — Cabbage finely shaved off the 
head, put in saucepan with water, vinegar, butter, 
red pepper, salt, little sugar, yolks of eggs; brought 
slowly to the boiling point; liquor is like thin cus¬ 
tard; must not boil. Cold Slaw a la Boiiemi- 
enne— Same as the preceding without eggs; boiled 
in the vinegar-water for 20 minutes. 

HUCKLEBERRY—See Wortleberry. 

HUITRES (Fr.)—Oysters. 

HURE DE SANGLIER (Fr.)—Boar’s head. 

HURE DE SAUMON (Fr.)—Head and shoul¬ 
ders of salmon. 

I. 

ICE—In New York the daily consumption of ice 
in the summer months amounts to upwards of 10,000 
tons. At the proper hour you may walk down a 
street and see upon every door-step a lump of ice 


ICE 

varying in size from a foot square upwards. In 
fact, ice is as much an article of necessity with 
Americans as milk. Home-Made Ice —To mak& 
ice at home, says Lei Science en Famille, take a cyl¬ 
indrical earthen vessel and pour three and one-third 
ounces of commercial sulphuric acid and one and 
three-fourths ounces of water into it, and then add 
1 ounce of powdered sulphate of soda. In the centre 
of this mixture place a smaller vessel containing 
the water to be frozen; then cover the vessel and, if 
possible, revolve the whole with a gentle motion. 
In a few minutes the water in the small vessel will 
be converted into ice. The same mixture can be 
used a second or third time for making a block of 
ice. The operation should, if possible, be performed 
in a cool place—in a cellar, for example. Ice Or¬ 
namentally Used —At a princely entertainment 
there were 19 tables arranged about a lofty central 
crystal fountain 9 feet high and 5)4 feet in diameter,, 
from which the water trickled down through trail¬ 
ing plants, amidst which stood aquatic birds of gay 
plumage. The fountain was surrounded by a gravel 
path with rock-work. Huge blocks of ice were 
raised on buffets 7 feet high in various parts of the 
room; into these were thrown different shades of 
color, thus giving a striking effect. Ice Window 
Ornament —A dome of ice hollow and with a light 
inside makes an attractive window show for a res- 
staurant or ice-cream house. It is made by setting 
a round-bottomed copper candy kettle full of water, 
plain or colored, in a tub of ice and salt freezing 
mixture. When frozen an inch or two thick, turned 
out, a hole bored in the bottom with a hot iron, used 
bottom side up, with a lamp or gas inside. Ice. 
Stands for Ices —Colored water frozen solid in 
moulds, turned out on a napkin, to serve as stands 
for moulded ice-creams, frozen puddings, etc. Dif¬ 
ferent colors. Ice Blocks for Strawberries— 
There is no more tempting way of serving straw¬ 
berries, on a hot morning, than from a block of clear 
ice. Chip a well in its centre and drop the berries 
into it. A cluster of yellow roses, or other flowers,, 
or even ferns alone, will prove appropriate decora¬ 
tion. 

ICES—Frozen sweets of all kinds, particularly 
water ices and cream ices, or sherbets and ice 
creams. Sorbet a l’Imperiale —A new form of 
ice, to be served in ice-cups between the courses; 
flavored with pineapple or strawberry, rum being 
used with the former and champagne with the latter; 
but so deftly concocted, that the most suspicious 
teetotaler would partake of it in blissful ignorance. 
Novel Forms —Ice-cream is now served in the 
form of a water melon; oysters on the shell at din¬ 
ner parties come enveloped in shredded lettuce like 
sea-weed; sherbet is served in tiny pasteboard 
punch bowls, and cherries and plums filled with 
cordial are served with dessert. Moulded Celeb¬ 
rities —“When in Munich, the daughters of Wag¬ 
ner, the composer, ordered ices at a cafe, and these 
were placed before them made into the likeness of 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


345 


ICE 

"Wagner. Of course, they were surprised, and re¬ 
fused the ices, and explanations became necessary. 
‘Oh, we cannot eat our father’s head!’” Mar¬ 
quises Jamaique —The Marquises Jamai'que, which 
came as a very pleasant relief from the eternal 
punch Romaine, were ices flavored with Jamaica 
rum, an excellent stimulus in mid-dinner. Ice 
Cream as Waffles —“Turkey wings and mush¬ 
rooms was a course at a club dinner party last week, 
and the ice-cream came on the table in the form of 
waffles.” Iced Rice Snowballs —“A new entre- 
met, deliciously cool and tempting at this time of 
year, is iced rice snowballs. Freeze in the shape of 
balls, rice well boiled in water, and flavored with 
lemon or orange, and serve in a green glass dish, 
covering each balls separately with whipped cream. 
Parfait Leger aux Cerises — A new and deli¬ 
cious iced sweet, invented by the chef for the occa¬ 
sion of a dinner to the Prince and Princess of Wales: 
Cherry juice, to which a slight soufcon of Kirsch- 
wasser is added, is frozen lightly and mixed with 
sweetened whipped cream, the color being height¬ 
ened by a little cochineal. The mixture is placed in 
suitable moulds and lightly frozen. A sauce, com 
posed of cherry juice and unfrozen whipped cream, 
is served with the above in a sauce-boat. A Rose 
of Ice— One new idea is a large rose of ice, with 
bud and leaf of the real flower inserted. Sometimes 
the ices take the form of a lighted candle, the socke: 
being made of brown ice, the candle of pistachio, 
and the flame of cinramon. Mousses Glaces, or 
Iced Froths —Whipped cream sweetened and va¬ 
riously flavored piled in glasses and frozen in the 
same glasses in which they are served. Chestnut 
Mousse —Puree of chestnuts mixed with whipped 
-cream, sugar and vanilla, frozen in a mould. Iced 
Quails, or Cailles a la Lessees — The little 
birds boned, stuffed, and masked with rich brown 
gravy, resting against a block of ice, and all sur¬ 
rounded with transparent aspic. A fruit salad, in 
cups of solid ice, served as a Acting introduction to 
this dish. Neapolitan Sorbetto —“Some of you 
make the best ices in the world, of which I have had 
practical experience. But why is it that it is impos¬ 
sible to get the Neapolitan sorbetto , which is some¬ 
thing between a water ice and a glassful of flavored 
snow in a state of thaw? Gramolata , I should 
call it, rather, or grcinita , as in Florence. I pre¬ 
sume it is as easy to make as a water ice, and only 
needs less freezing. In the summer it is the invari¬ 
able first breakfast of the Neapolitan, who would 
be thrown into a fever by any hot beverage. The 
favorite flavors are lemon, coffee, and cedar, and it 
is usually eaten with biscuits or crescents.” Ro¬ 
man Granito —Equal parts of strong coffee and 
plain sugar syrup, put into wide-mouthed bottles, 
placed in a freezing mixture of ice and salt till half 
frozen, served in coffee cups or glasses. Claret 
Granito —Juice of 6 oranges, rind of 2, 1 pt. syrup, 
1 pt. claret; the orange rind previously steeped in 
the syrup. Half frozen like roma?i granito. Punch 


ICE 

Granito —Made of 3 wineglassfuls each of tea, 
brandy, rum, syrup, maraschino, pineapple syrup, 
orange and lemon juice and a pint of champagne. 
Same way as other granitos. Glace a l’Orange 
— Made of 1 qt. syrup, 1 pt. orange juice, rind of 3 
oranges infused in 1 pt. water, strained, frozen. 
Oranges Filled with Ices — Circular piece cut 
out, orange skin emptied with spoon, filled with 
orange ice in which are glace fruits soaked in mara¬ 
schino. Piece replaced, oranges frozen in sorhetiere 
before serving. Reine-Claude Ice —Green-col¬ 
ored ice-cream, made of pulp of green-gage plums 
mixed with whipped cream after being nearly 
frozen. (See Gateau Stanley.') Frozen Souffles 
—Equal parts of rather firm and sweet custard, 
strongly flavored with vanilla, white of egg beaten 
stiff, and whipped cream. Mix these three ingre¬ 
dients very lightly together, and fill into moderate- 
sized paper souffle-cups, which place in an ice-cave. 
Pistachio Custard Ice— Custard made of cream, 
sugar and yolks, pistachio nuts blanched and 
pounded, green coloring, orange flower water, va¬ 
nilla; frozen as ice cream. Orgeat Ice —Orgeat 
is milk of almonds, made by pounding % lb. al¬ 
monds, adding 3 qts. water, sugar, orange flower 
water, strained, frozen. Glace Creme de The— 
Tea ice-cream. Glace Creme de Vanille —Va¬ 
nilla ice-cream. Glace Creme de Ratafias — 
Almond macaroon ice-cream. Glace Creme 
Bavaroise — Frozen Bavarian cream. Glace 
Creme de Florida — Ice-cream with infusion 
of orange flowers. Glace Creme de Cafe— 
Coffee ice-cream. Glace Creme de Noyau — 
Noyau ice-cream. Creme d’Abricots — Apricot 
ice-cream. Creme de Peches —Peach ice-cream. 
Creme de FRAiSES-Strawberry ice-cream. Creme 
de Framboises —Raspberry ice-cream. Creme de 
Groseilles —Currant ice-cream. Creme de Ce¬ 
rises — Cherry ice-cream. Creme de Raisins — 
Grape ice-cream. Creme d’ Ananas — Pineapple 
ice-cream. Creme de Citron —Lemon ice-cream. 
Creme d’Oranges — Orange ice-cream. Creme 
d’Amandes —Almond ice-cream. Creme de Pis- 
TACHES-Pistachio nut ice-cream. Creme de Mar- 
RONS-Chestnut ice-cream. Creme de Gingembre- 
Ginger ice-cream. Glace Eau de Canneberges — 
Cranberry'water-ice. Glace Eau de Rhubarbe- 
Rhubarb water-ice. Glace Eau dePonch E-Punch 
water-ice. Eau de Melon —Melon water-ice. Eau 
de Grenade — Pomegranate water-ice. Eau de 
Mille Fruits — Mixed fruit water-ice. Biscuit 
Glace —Made of thick sugar-syrup flavored with 
vanilla, beaten into 8 yolks for each pint, stirred over 
a slow fire till it thickens, stirred again on ice till 
cold and frothy; mixed with equal quantity of cream 
whipped to froth; filled into paper cases powdered 
with macaroon dust; frozen in the cases. Parfait 
au Cafe —Coffee ice-cream frozen in a mould, made 
of coffee-syrup; beaten into 8 yulks for each pint, 
thickened over the fire; stirred then on ice, mixed 
with whipped cream. Charlotte Plombieres — 






346 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ICE 

Another name for tutti-frutti ice cream, or crema de 
vino\ made of vanilla ice-cream mixed with whipped 
cream, kirschivasser to flavor, and candied fruits; 
frozen as a charlotte in a mould lined with lady- 
fingers. Glace de Plombieres —Almond custard 
mixed with whipped cream and frozen; not moulded, 
but served with apricot jam. Gateau Glace a 
l’Eloise — A mould lined with whipped cream 
frozen, interior filled with stewed cherries in cus¬ 
tard, all frozen solid; turned out; served with a cus¬ 
tard over it. Baked Ice Cream or Glace Mer- 
inguee au Four —Ice cream turned out of a mould, 
covered with very cold meringue and quickly 
browned a little in a hot oven or with red-hot iron. 
Ice Baked in Paste or Glaces au Four —Small 
pieces of ice folded in paste carefully to exclude the 
air; baked broAvn quickly in a hot oven. Bombe a 
la Souveraine —Mould lined with white paper, 
inside coated with almond ice-cream, filled up with 
tea custard mixed with whipped cream; frozen solid 
in mould. Mousse au Cafe Vierge —Coffee cus¬ 
tard mixed when cold with whipped cream; frozen 
solid in a mould. Charlotte Glace a l\ Me- 
dicis —Charlotte-russe filled with chocolate ice¬ 
cream. Glace Pralinee a l’Orangb — Mould 
filled on one side with almond nougat ice-cream, 
the other side with orange water-ice. Filbert 
Ice-Cream— Nougat or filbert candy pounded, used 
to flavor the cream. Florentine Ice-Cream— 
Custard and cream flavored strongly with orange- 
rind; frozen. Mousse aux Fraises— Strawberry 
pulp, sugar and whipped cream frozen. Muscovite 
with Currants —Russian or whipped jelly made of 
currant juice and gelatine, mixed with whipped 
cream frozen in a mould. Mousse au CafeNoir — 
Coffee custard when cold mixed with whipped 
cream and frozen. Mousse aux Peches —Pulp of 
ripe raw peaches with custard and whipped cream; 
frozen. Muscovite of Peaches — Peach pulp, 
sugar, gelatine and water mixed with whipped 
cream, and frozen. Mousse au Marasquin —Cus¬ 
tard of yolks and syrup flavored with maraschino 
and Icirschwasser, mixed with whipped cream, and 
frozen. Muscovite of Pineapple —Grated pine¬ 
apple, sugar and gelatine made into jelly, whipped, 
mixed with whipped cream, and frozen. Bombe 
aux Fruits —Bomb-shaped mould lined with choc¬ 
olate ice-cream, center filled with tutti-frutti; frozen 
solid. Excellent au Cafe — Coffee-flavored 
custard mixed with whipped cream, and frozen in a 
square mould. Spongade di Roma —Frozen egg- 
nogg. Brown Bread Ice-Cream —Slice of brown 
bread without crust, and slice of sponge cake dried 
in the oven, pounded, sifted, mixed in Curasao; 
frozen. Punch Ice-Cream —Made of i pt. cream, 
2 glasses Jamaica rum, % pt. green tea, juice of % 
lemon, 8 oz. sugar; frozen. Crema di Vino —A 
tutti-frutti with wine made of cream custard; white 
wine, sugar, cut candied fruits; frozen. Rice Ice- 
Cream —Rice boiled in milk, mixed with custard 
and cream; frozen. Cocoanut Ice-Cream —Either 


ICE 

white or yellow, made by mixing grated fresh cocoa- 
nut, or desiccated cocoanut scalded in either custard 
and cream or starch-thickened cream. Panaciiee 
Ice-Cream —Different colored ices in the same 
mould; marbled ice-cream; ribbon ice-cream; harle¬ 
quin ice-cream. Glucose in Ice Cream — See 
Glucose. Glucose used for sweetening instead of 
sugar makes ice cream smooth and light and foamy; 
a valuable wrinkle. Gelatine in Ice Cream —A 
small quantity of gelatine, not more than i oz. in 2 
qts., makes it smooth and light and less easy to melt. 
Wine jelly or any gelatine jelly can be employed as 
well. 

ICED SOUPS—Clear soups are sometimes served 
ice-cold, like iced tea or coffee, in consomme cups. 
“At a recent ball-supper given by the Rao of Cutck 
in London, iced soup was served, and eagerly de¬ 
voured by the guests, who were regaled with true In¬ 
dian curries and devilled chicken of superlative ex¬ 
cellence.” 

ICED PUDDINGS—Compound ice-creams, such 
as those containing fruit, nuts, cocoanut, rice, tapi¬ 
oca, etc., are sometimes called iced puddings; some 



ice mould. 

For several colors, or ice puddings, creams, etc. 

are composed of two parts in a mould as an outside 
of rice ice-cream with a tilling of apple-ice. The 
best known is called Nesselrode, which see. 

ICELAND MOSS—A lichen which serves the 
purpose of making jelly like gelatine. 

ICE-MAKING MACHINES —Artificial ice is 
made in almost every large town, even in the far 
south and the West Indies. Small machines for fam¬ 
ily use also are on sale. The freezing is effected by 
the rapid evaporation of ammonia, which produces 
intense cold in pipes which run through brine, 
which thus becomes cold enough to freeze fresh 
water that is set in it in cans. The ammonia is con¬ 
densed and used over again. A complete hotel 
“plant” costs from $2,000 to $3,000. 

ICE CRUSHERS—Various devises for crushing, 
shaving and rasping ice are in the market, suitable 
for ice-cream freezers and bar-tender’s use. 

ICE CREAM MOULDS—They are made of all 














THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


347 


ICI 


IND 


shapes and sizes, of tin, copper, lead and pewter; 
like melons, pyramids, fruits, bricks, bombs, jugs, 
and new designs are always coming out. Figures, 
such as cupids, birds, etc., are in two parts hinged 
together; the joints are sealed up with butter to keep 
the salt water from reaching the ice cream inside. 
It is found best to line such moulds as admit of it 
with white paper to facilitate the withdrawal of the 
moulded ice. 

ICING CAKES—Sometimes called frosting; the 
covering of cakes with a coating of sugar, and orna¬ 
menting them. 

ICING—Is of several kinds. Water Icing— 
Fine powdered sugar wetted with water, and fla¬ 
vored, and spread over the surface of the cake. It 
is of a pearly, semi-transparent appearance, and does 
not break when the cake is cut. Is also made with 
fruit-juices or syrup instead of water, or with wine, 
or colored with any confectionery coloring. Fon¬ 
dant Icing —Creamed sugar, such as chocolate- 
cream drops, etc., are made of, is partially dissolved 
and poured and spread over cakes while warm, and 



TUBES FOR CAKE ORNAMENTING. 


considered the best kind of icing. It contains no 
white of eggs, but the sugar is boiled to the degree 
of soft ball, then worked with a paddle on a slab till 
perfectly white. W iiite-of-Egg Icing —Powdered 
sugar wetted with white of egg and beaten with a 
paddle about 15 minutes, or till firm and white. A 
little acid of any harmless kind assists in the mak¬ 
ing. When firm enough to pipe ornaments on the 
cake, part of it is thinned down with more white of 
egg to spread over the surface of the cake smooth 
and glossy; the ornamenting is put on when the 
coating is partly dry. Chocolate Icing— -Grated 
chocolate beaten into boiling sugar at the stage of 
the “feather” or soft ball, a little lard or fat of some 
kind added to make it glossy. Y ellow IciNG-Made 
with yolks and sugar; or, white icing colored. Al¬ 


cohol Acid to Stiffen Icing —Bakers’ specialty. 
One ounce ~itric acid in 2 oz. alcohol; it slowly dis¬ 
solves; a few drops added to icing when beating 
makes it firm and white. 

ICING TUBES OR I? OINTS — Small cones of 
thin brass or other metal about an inch long, to be 
obtained at the confectioners’ supply stores. The 
points are filed into various shapes, which shape 
the cords of icing pressed through them. They 
are used by dropping them as point into a cone- 
shaped bag or paper, with the points cut off to re¬ 
ceive them, and the bag is then filled with icing. 

IMPERIAL GENOISE CAKE-Richest cake 
mixture; made of 1 lb. sugar, 16 eggs, lb. butter, 
Y a lb. flour, y A lb. ground almonds, vanilla, almond 
and lemon extracts. Eggs and sugar whisked in 
kettle set in warm water, melted butter poured in, 
then almonds and flour. Baked in shallow moulds 
or in sheets. 

IMPERIAL PUNCH—Made of pineapple, or¬ 
anges, vanilla, lemons, sugar, cinnamon, hock, rum, 
champagne, seltzer, and water. 

IMPERIAL PUDDING A LA CORDON 
BLEU—Dry cooked rice rubbed through a seive, 
seasoned with little butter, sugar and cinnamon; 
mould lined with it. Inside filled half with grated 
pineapple and raw egg, rest of space with cocoanut, 
custard (raw), with eggs plenty to set firm; steamed, 
turned out of mould. 

INDIAN PIUTE COOKERY—“The Indians at 
the Sink of the Humboldt catch a great many small 
fish, of which they make a kind of chowder. The 
fish are caught by means of dip-nets, some S feet 
square, suspended from a pole supported on two 
crotchets, like an old-fashioned well-sweep. These 
nets are worked by the squaws. They catch from a 
quart to a peck of minnows at a dip. The fish so 
caught are beaten into a sort of pulp or paste, just 
as they come out of the water, insides, outsides and 
all. A certain amount of flour is then added to the 
mass, and it is either baked and eaten as a cake or 
boiled and eaten as a sort of soup or chowder.” 

INDIAN PUDDINGS—Made of corn meal, gen¬ 
erally boiled mush or porridge mixed with butter, 
syrups, eggs, ginger, baked. 

INDIAN CHUTNEY—Relish made of Soz. su¬ 
gar, 4 oz. salt, 2 oz. garlic, 2 oz. shallots, 4 oz. ground 
ginger, 2 oz. red peppers, 4 oz. mustard seed, 6 oz. 
raisins stoned, 1 bottle vinegar, 15 large sour ap¬ 
ples, 6 oz. tomatoes. Chop up the garlic, shallots, 
tomatoes, and raisins, and wash the mustard seed in 
vinegar and let it dry. Then add all to the apples 
and sugar, and boil slowly for an hour and a half. 
Add the other half-bottle of vinegar; let it cool, and 
bottle off or cover in jars. 

INDE (Fr.)—Coq d’lnde is the old name of the 
turkey, whence the present dinde. The old French 
is still sometimes used in bills of fare. 

INDIENNE (Fr.)—Relating to the East Indies. 



















348 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


IRI 

Soup a l’Indienne —Curry soup. Sauce Indien- 
ne— Indian sauce or tomato sauce with curry and 
anchovy essence. Indienne de Poularde— Chick¬ 
en or capon in Indienne sauce or curry sauce—used 
in the same sense as a Snedoise (Swede) of peaches, 
or Muscovite of apricots. 

IRISH MOSS—Similar to Iceland moss and used 
for the same purpose. A determined attempt was 
made a few years ago to popularise these mosses for 
use instead of gelatine and isinglass, but the pre¬ 
pared moss was never free from a peculiar and un¬ 
pleasant taste and the efforts of the manufacturers 
proved abortive. 

IRISH STEW—Mutton stewed with potatoes and 
onions, salt and pepper, until quite tender, and the 
liquor is reduced to the richness of gravy. A cer¬ 
tain essayist assures us that there are three dishes 
which, if put upon the bill of fare of a club, are de¬ 
voured before all else, so that at seven or eight 
o’clock, when most members dine, there is nothing 
left of them but the tempting words on the dinner- 
bill. These dishes are Irish stews, tripe and onions, 
and liver and bacon! “What a tribute,” exclaims 
our author, “to the homely cookery of Britain.” 

ISINGLASS—Made from fish, the best is made 
from the swim-bladder of the sturgeon. It is used 
for making jelly and for all the purposes of gelatine 
but being clearer than that is not now much used. 
When gelatine was first made in a refined and shred¬ 
ded form it was sold as isinglass. 

ITALIAN COOKERY-As the spit and gridiron 
are specialities of the English kitchen, so the fry¬ 
ing-pan is the speciality of the Italian cook; and, as 
England has taught the world to roast, so Italy has 
taught the world to fry. Frying is quite a science 
in that country and a science which every maid and 
mistress studies with all her might, for as there is 
no Italian dinner without its antefasto, so there is 
none of any consequence without its dish of fry or 
fritto, as it is called in Italy. Meat, fish, vegetables, 
all may be fried, and generally meat and vegetables, 
or fish and vegetables, are fried together. What¬ 
ever the articles, they must be fried in boiling fat, 
and at a brisk fire. Not a moment must elapse be¬ 
tween the frying and the serving. The smallest de¬ 
lay is ruinous to the success of the dish, as it tends 
to make the fritto lose its crispness, and become flab¬ 
by. Whilst the soup is being taken, the fritto is 
cooked. If need be, good eaters will readily con¬ 
sent to a “wait” rather than endanger the. full suc¬ 
cess of th it fritto. Oil for Frying —Oil is much 
used in Italy for frying, especially for fish. But Ita¬ 
ly has the advantage of pure oils, which this coun¬ 
try does not possess. Oil, even the best, has the 
disadvantage of burning very easily and of making 
the fritto too dark in color, instead of a rich golden- 
brown, which it should be. Fritto Misto —Every 
kind of meat, vegetables, and fish may be fried. 
The favorite Italian fritto , however, is the mixed 
fritto— composed of veal cutlets, calf’s brains (which 


ITA 

is quite equal to sweetbread) and sliced artichokes, 
gourds or potatoes cut in short narrow sticks. A 
great secret of the excellence of the Italian fritto 
is that everything that is to be fried is previously 
soaked in a batter made of different ingredients, 
which vary according to what has to be fried. For 
an ordinary mixed fritto , for instance, you make a 
batter composed, say, of a qnarter of a pound of 
flour to the yolk of one egg, a tea-spoonful of vine¬ 
gar or the juice of half a lemon, and thirty grains 
of fine oil. Beat well together, adding occasionally 
a little water or beer, or white wine, just enough to 
make the batter liquid. Then beat the white of the 
egg apart and to a foam, and add this foam to the 
hatter at the very last moment, just as you are going 
to fry. The calf’s brains must be well cleaned, skin¬ 
ned, and rinsed or boiled for a few minutes before 
being fried, and the same with sweetbread; they 
must be then left to cool. When cold they are cut 
into small pieces, about the size of a large walnut. 
Soak them first in a little oil, salt, and vinegar. Then 
dry then with a clean cloth and soak in the batter, 
from which they are thrown into boiling fat or but¬ 
ter and fried to a rich golden color. When quite 
crisp, and of the required color, take them out of the 
fat and lay them on clean white paper or a clean 
cloth, to absorb the fat. They should also be served 
on a cloth. Cutlets only require to be soaked in the 
batter previous to frying. Vegetables, whether ar¬ 
tichokes, cauliflowers,or gourds, are partly boiled in 
salt and water before being fried. Potatoes are bet¬ 
ter not previously boiled, but they are cut into short 
thin strips in order to fry easily. Artichokes must 
be trimmed of all their outer tough leaves, the heart 
alone being fried; this is cut into four parts like an 
orange. Roman Fry Shops —In Rome there are 
frying shops as close together as public houses in 
London,and there persons who may not have the nec¬ 
essaries to cook at home—as those who live in a poor 
lodging-house, for instance—can have a good plate¬ 
ful of fritto for a few pence. There is a clean bat¬ 
ter before you, and the vegetables and meat prepared 
for the pan, and the snowy white c oth on which to 
eat. You choose the pieces you like best, and these 
are fried before your eyes with a cleanliness equal to 
the silver gridiron of London restaurants. These 
fry-shops are celebrated institutions in Rome, and 
in some high born ladies and gentlemen go to sup¬ 
per on certain days of the year. Saint Joseph is the 
patron saint of Roman frying men and women. On 
that day the fry-shops are things to see. They are 
decorated both within and without with white and 
colored draperies, and flowers, and foliage, and 
flags, and banners, and pictures, and ornaments of 
every kind. Clerical Josephs decorate their houses 
with images of St. Joseph himself. Liberal Josephs 
decorate their shops with pictures of Garibaldi, 
whose name was Joseph. It will be seen, therefore, 
in what repute the'frying-pan is held in Italy. Near¬ 
ly one hundred different fried dishes enter into the 
Italian cuisine , one-half being of meat, and theother 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


349 


s ITA 

half of vegetables and cereals for fasting days. The 
way the Italians fry liver, is exquisite. You require 
for this calf’s liver, butter, capers, pine seeds, all¬ 
spices, sugar, lemon-juice, vinegar, flour, salt, and 
pepper. Cut, say, io oz. of calf’s liver into slices, 
and fry half these in butter. When fried, pound 
it in a mortar, with a few capers, a few pine seeds, 
allspice, and sugar; then strain, and add the juice of 
a lemon, and a little pepper, salt, and vinegar. Put 
the whole in a hot-water bath, or near the fire, but 
not on it. Flour the rest of the sliced liver, and fry 
in fresh butter. When fried, place the slices on a 
plate, and pour over them the first part reduced to a 
thick sauce. This will be found to be delicious. To 
make it more palatable still, roll each slice of liver 
round a piece of bacon and a slice of truffle, and tie 
•or skewer the roll together. This is easy to do in 
Italy, where truffles are almost as common as mush¬ 
rooms. In England only the wealthy few can in¬ 
dulge in truffles—and those may not care to eat fried 
liver, even for breakfast. Stuffed with truffles, how¬ 
ever, it is not unfit for Royal stomachs.” Fritto 
Misto —(2) “This fry is an odd medley, and is com¬ 
posed of the following ingredients, which must all 
be dipped into batter, fried in lard, and served in the 
same dish: Ram’s kidneys, which have been soaked 
in salt water, pieces of bread, tendons of veal, calf’s 
brains, sweatbreads, rice croquettes, pieces of cauli¬ 
flower, egg-plant, anchovies, and artichokes.” Frit¬ 
to Misto —(j) The ingredients of the mixed fry are 
varied with the seasons or according to taste. This 
one has for its components: lamb fries, sweetbreads 
and egg-plant, bread-crumbed and fried; calf’s 
brains, calf’s liver and cauliflower dipped in batter 
and fried; all dished together with fried parsley and 
lemons. Cotei.ette Milanaise —“In an Italian 
restaurant we recently came across a table specialty 
which may be recommended as an appetizing entree. 
We refer to cotelette Milanaise with curry sauce. 
The ordinary cotelette Milanaise , consisting only of 
a veal-chop or cutlets encrusted with bread-crumbs 
and egg, with the traditional quarter of a lemon to 
stimulate the palate, is a common dish enough, but 
the addition of curry sauce gives it a distinct excel¬ 
lence.” Italian Dishes — Le Restaurant Italien 
makes a specialty of Italian dishes, and on its carte 
figure prominently the names of Lasagne, Ravioli , 
Tagliarini, Spaghetti and Risotto, besides the fam¬ 
ous timbales of Milan, and the filling, if not partic¬ 
ularly tasty, polenta, a kind of porridge made of 
maize-flour. Polenta —Is also made of chestnut- 
flour. “The food made of the chestnut which is 
most in favor is the polenta. This is made by sim¬ 
ply boiling the chestnut-flour 10 or 15 minutes with 
a little salt to flavor it, taking care to keep it con¬ 
stantly stirred. This is eaten with cream, and is said 
to be very healthy and nntritious.” Necci —“The 
food called Necci is composed of chestnut-flour 
formed into a cake, and is made by first mixing the 
flour with cold water, and then making cakes piled 
one upon another and separated by chestnut-leaves 


ITA 

moistened with water. The whole mass is then 
cooked over a hot fire, and the cakes are taken off 
one by one when the leaves are almost burned, and 
are then eaten with cream and butter. Zabbaglione- 
Is the name of an Italian sweet entremet to be had in 
perfectiou at the Hotel d’ltalie. It is composed of 
whipped yolk of egg sweetened, and mixed with 
‘Capri’ or some other white wine, and is served in a 
frothy mixture in cups.” Polpetti —Croquettes of 
meat of any kind mixed with grated cheese stirred 
over the fire with a thick sauce and seasonings, rolled 
and shaped when cold; breaded and fried. Italian 
Meringue —Boiled icing, made of 1 lb. sugar boiled 
to the crack and 6 whites whipped very firm stirred 
in; used to ice cakes and to dry bake as “kisses,” 
also to mix in frozen punch for punches a la Romaine. 
Italian Pastes — Those well known everywhere 
are macaroni and vermicelli; others are tagliarini, 
spaghetti, fidelini, lasagnes, and various small kinds 
and shapes; they are all essentially of the same sub¬ 
stance, but of different qualities, some being made 
of the best wheat-flour, some with a proportion of 
corn-flour. Italian Soups —Generally those soups 
which contain or are served with some form of these 
pastes, and with grated cheese handed around sep¬ 
arately. Italian Raviolis —Little turnovers made 
of balls of chicken forcemeat size of a grape, inclosed 
in nouilles paste; poached in water, placed in a dish 
with grated parmesan and sauce; served on same 
method as a garbure, with soup in another tureen, 
to be taken up and eaten with the soup. Sardinian 
Raviolis —Instead of chicken forcemeat they are 
filled with a paste made of spinach, eggs, bread¬ 
crumbs, cheese, and butter. Lasagnes a la Mi¬ 
lanaise —Lasagnes boiled, mixed in a sauce or ra¬ 
gout of gravy, cheese, mushrooms, truffles, tomato 
sauce, etc. NoQUES-Italian-paste dumplings; equiv¬ 
alent to the German /close —made of equal weights of 
eggs, butter, and flour worked together, dropped by 
spoonfuls in boiling water; eaten with grated cheese 
and butter, or with soup, or finished as macaroni, 
etc., in the oven. Agnolottis —Another variety of 
raviolis, made the same except the filling is of minced 
cooked beef with cheese and fried onion; served 
aside with soup, or in cheese, sauce and butter baked. 
Gnocchis —Paste balls like noques, but differently 
made; of 5 oz. flour in y 2 pt. boiling water, table¬ 
spoonful butter, 1 oz. cheese, 3 eggs; similar to 
cheese fritters; poached, finished like macaroni and 
cheese; baked. Another variety has pounded chicken 
meat mixed in the paste. Timbale a la Milanaise- 
A kind of macaroni raised-pie; the macaroni boiled, 
mixed wilh truffles, mushrooms, red tongue, and 
cream sauce; baked in a mould lined with short paste; 
turned out whole. Risotto Piemontaise — Rice 
fried raw with onion in butter; boiled in broth suf¬ 
ficient, with butter and cheese; served aside with 
soup. Risotto Napolitaine —Rice as above, with 
tomato sau e, butter, cheese, mushrooms, etc.; served 
alone or with soup. Italian Pyramid —Rings of 
puff - paste of decreasing sizes baked separately, piled 





350 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ITA 

on each other with marmalade spread betwen; orna¬ 
mented. Italian Cream —Yellow cream-custard 
strongly flavored with cinnamon, with whipped 
cream added, and gelatine about i oz. to each quart 
to set it in a mould. Italian Pudding—A deep 
dish lined with puff-paste, layer of half-cooked 
slices of apples on the bottom; sugar and wine; 
bread-custard to fill up; baked. {See Flan.') Ital¬ 
ian Steamed Pudding —Panada of bread-crumbs 
in boiling milk mixed with sugar, yolks, va¬ 
nilla, raisins, whipped whites; it rises like a souffle 
when steamed; to be served immediately, with saba- 
yon {zabbagHone). Other Italian Dishes —Ices, 
salads, and sauces, may be found in great numbers 
in all cookbook directions; they may be known by 
the appellations Medicis (Catherine de Medicis in¬ 
troduced Italian cookery into France), Napolitaine 
Romaine , Sicilienne , and all such allusions to Italian 
cities. Italian Ante-Pasto —Signifies the entire 
list of appetizers or cold hors d'centres. See also 
Ices, Granito , Grissini Bread , Macaroni. 

ITALIAN WAREHOUSE—“The Italian ware¬ 
house, first established in London in the reign of 
Charles II, is an institution peculiar to the British 
Metropolis. In the last century, when a gentleman 
went to Italy, he generally resided there for at least 
six months. When he returned and settled down in 
his grand town mansion, he was not satisfied with 
having a French cook; he sighed for the macaroni 
and vermicelli , the Parmesan cheese, the polenta , the 
morta-della di Bologna, the Lacrima Christi , and 
the chianti, and especially the^pure olive-oil of Flo¬ 
rence and Lucca. It was to supply his lordship or 
his honor with such articles that the Italian ware¬ 
houses were founded and grew apace. The Italian 
warehousemen of the past, however, dealt in other 
commodities besides wine and oil, macaroni and 
cheese. They were as useful to my lady as to my 
lord; they imported from Italy lute-strings—a cor¬ 
ruption of lustrini— and paduasoys; the rich cut vel¬ 
vets of Genoa; the stiff black silks and splendid lace 
-a legacy from the Spanish domination-from Milan, 
with beads from Venice, and gloves and coral from 
Naples.” The Italian warehouse may be found in 
most of the large cities of the United States, and 
there the steward finds his foreign cheeses and all 
such specialties as are raised above the ordinary 
public demand by their prices. 

ITALIENNE SAUCE—Brown or white sauce 
with wine, shallots, mushrooms, etc. {See Sauces.) 

J. 

JACKET KETTLES—Double-bottomed kettles 
or boilers, steam from the engine-boiler is let into 
the space between the bottoms and rapid boiling is 
the result. Used for soup stock boilers, ham boilers, 
vegetable boilers and for laundry purposes.. 

JAM—Fruit stewed down with sugar; applied 
to mashed fruit. The fruit stewed down without 
breaking up the shape is called preserves. All ' 


JAP 

fruits are reduced to jam except the orange which 
has a name to itself; orange jam is called marmalade. 
Jam Tartlets —(/)-Patty pans lined with puff- 
paste, a spoonful of jam in each; baked. (2-)Patty 
cases or vol au vents, cut out of puff-paste with a 
center to be taken out and the vacancy filled with jam 
after baking. Jam Roly-Poly—A pudding made of 
a sheet of short paste or biscuit-dough spread over 
with jam, rolled up long, steamed or boiled in a 
cloth. Imitation Jam —“Recently there appared a 
cutting from an American paper explaining what a 
certain American firm understood by blackberry jam! 
There is a company here that runs them close in the 
matter of sharpness. You know that moss or dried 
grass, with which Chinese exporters pack up their 
fragile wares. It is glutinous when boiled, and 
costs nothing. Your Chinese importer will give it 
to you if you will cart it off his premises. Add glu¬ 
cose, flavoring essence, and little dye, and there you 
are, with first-rate raspberry jam; prime cost, one 
centime a pot, to be retailed at sixpence a pound.” 
Some Genuine Jam— The scarcity of raspberries 
in the fruiterers’ shops and on the huckster’s bar- 
rows is accounted for by the insatiable demand of 
the jam manufacturers, who buy all they can get of 
this delicious fruit. In the Borough market recent¬ 
ly Messrs-of Stratford, took a “parcel” of 

20 tons at $95 per ton. 

JAMBALAYA—Southern or creole dish made in 
two or three different ways. (/)-Fried chicken 
cooked and placed in a dish is bordered with rice 
stewed with tomatoes, onion, butter, spoonful of 
sugar, salt and pepper, till the rice is tender and all 
stiff enough for a spoon to stand in it. About the 
same as Rissoto with chicken. {See Ital an cookery.) 
(2)-American planter’s way. Ham cut in dice, light¬ 
ly fried with butter and onion; rice and water added 
and red pepper, and all stewed together till rice is 
done and dry, the pieces of ham being of course 
mingled in the rice. (j)-Florida Spanish. Pieces 
of fish, ham, onion, fried together; tomatoes, water 
and seasonings added; rice boiled in it sufficient to 
nearly dry it up. 

JAMBON (Fr.)— Ham. Jambon de Porc— Pork 
ham. Jambon d’ Ours —Bear ham. 

JAMBON, SAUCE—Brown sauce with shred 
ham, shallots, butter, wine, cayenne. 

JAPANESE COOKERY—The natives eat little 
flesh. Only since the advent of foreigners have 
they learned to eat any at all. Their sustenance is 
drawn mostly from rice, sweet potatoes, fish and a 
few vegetables, such as a great radish called daikan. 
The lesser articles are barley, wheat, green corn, 
oranges, grapes, figs and persimmons. They 
make a soup of rice, small pieces of dough, a little 
sea-weed, some snails and sharks’ fins. Method 
of Frying — In the country towns tell them 
to cook you a chicken; you hear a squawking 
in the house, and in just five minutes the bird is be¬ 
fore you, all cooked. It is done in this wise: Upon 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


351 


a charcoal fire are placed thin copper pans, which 
are almost instantly heated to a white heat; oil is 
dropped in, the chicken on top, and it is done. The 
Japanese Misoshiru — In the eating-houses of 
Tokio, if he can obtain the concession of a spoon 
instead of being obliged to drink 1ns soup out of the 
bowl like tea, as the natives do, the adventurous 
foreigner will find that he has in the first dish set 
before him a savory compound called misoshiru. 
This is made from rniso, a fermented mixture of soy, 
beans, wheat, and salt. It has a gamey flavor all 
its own. He will then attack with pleasure or sur¬ 
prise the many little plats on his tray, turning for 
relief from the sweetened white beans, mixed with 
Kawatcike , a kind of mushroom grown in the shad¬ 
ows of rocky boulders, and the delicious lobster 
pudding or cold omelet and other trifles included 
under the head of Kuchitori, to the Hachimono , 
which may happen to be a piece of sole stewed in 
soy, or a block of salmon with lobster and shredded 
cucumber. Then for a change he may, with the 
pair of wooden chop-sticks which are laid before 
him on a bamboo tray, divert himself with trying 
to pick out of a small china cup, made without a 
handle, the brown soy-colored beans and strips of 
Kikurage, or ear-shaped mushrooms. Boiled rice 
is served in a separate bowl. Another substantial 
dish, Wanmori, consists of meat or fish and vege¬ 
tables, possibly, for instance, a piece of fresh 
salmon and a slice of vegetable marrow with 
pieces of soaked Fu, a kind of biscuit made 
from the glutinous part of wheat flour. The 
gravy in which these pieces de resistance are 
floating is thickened with a transparent, starchy 
substance, obtained from the root of a climbing 
plant (Pueraria Thunbergiana), called by the Japan¬ 
ese Kuzu. For salad there are thin slices of cu¬ 
cumber flavored with scraped shreds of dried bonito, 
a fish much in favor on the Pacific coasts, the cu¬ 
cumber being dressed with vinegar and sugar, but 
without oil. One other relish must be noticed, the 
sliced root of the burdock salted and preserved in 
miso. A sweet kind of sake, described as Japanese 
wine, is the proper beverage at the meal. After 
dinner Japanese green tea may be ordered, or, upon 
special application, a cup of fragrant cherry-flower 
tea. To prepare this drink half a dozen dried blos¬ 
soms and buds of the cherry flower are placed, with 
a pinch of salt, in a tea-cup, and hot, but not boil¬ 
ing, water poured on them. The infusion is slightly 
and agreeably aromatic. 

JAPANESE CROSNES—See Crosnes. “ Croc- 
nes Japonaise, the new vegetables, are now to be 
seen and bought in every green-grocer’s and deli¬ 
cacy-warehouse in Paris, and seem to be very pop¬ 
ular. The growers supply the trade with printed 
cards giving very full instructions as to the different 
ways of cooking the vegetables.” 

JAPANESE PLUM—A variety of plum recently 
acclimatized in Florida and suited to the climate. 
It is eaten raw, and made into preserves. 


JEL 

JAPANESE PERSIMMON —A newly intro¬ 
duced fruit of the southern Gulf states and Cali¬ 
fornia. It is in apperance much like a tomato. It 
must be perfectly ripe when picked, otherwise the 
flavor is not agreeable; this renders it unsuitable to 
ship to distant markets. It can be dried, however, 
like a fig, which it resembles in its dried state, and 
has a very meaty, pleasant taste. 

JAPANESE SALAD— Salade 'Japonaise. See 
Salads. 

JAPAN PEA—A prolific sort of field pea culti¬ 
vated in the western states. 

JAPANESE PAPER NAPKINS—Paper nap¬ 
kins, either plain or bordered or figured, can be 
bought at the notion stores at prices ranging from 
50 cents to $1.00 per 100. They are useful for pic¬ 
nic and festival purposes, for large catering affairs 
and out-door spreads. At one of the large catering 
undertakings mentioned in the third division of this 
book the contractors provided 2,000 linen napkins; 
a needless expense, for they had to resort to paper 
napkins after all on account of the want of time for 
laundrying the first supply. 

JARDINIER (Fr.)—Gardener. 

JARDINIERE (Fr.)—Mixed vegetables; a gar¬ 
den stand for plants or flowers. Salade Jardi¬ 
niere —Salad of mixed vegetables. Consomme a 
la Jardiniere —Clear soup with various vegetab¬ 
les cut into small fancy shapes. Garnish a la 
Jardiniere —Carrots and turnips cut in shapes like 
large peas, with a scoop made for the purpose, 
string beans, cauliflower, green peas, asparagus 
tops or any vegetables, all of corresponding small 
size, cooked in seasoned broth, then tossed in glaze 
or meat gravy. Dishes a la Jardiniere —All 
dishes of meat which are served up with the jardi¬ 
niere garnish around them or in the center. 

JARDINIERE CUTTERS — There are small 
machines to be bought which rapidly stamp out 
patterns from slices of vegetables for jardiniere 
garnish and soups. 

JAUNE MANGE—Like blanc-mange, but made 
yellow with yolk of egg or saffron; a custard set 
with gelatine. 

JELLY—Table jellies are made of gelatine, sugar, 
flavorings, and either water and fruit juice or water 
and wine. Rule: 1 qt. water or juice, 1% oz. gela¬ 
tine, 2 lemons, 8 oz. sugar, all boiled together, then 
strained. By adding white of eggs before boiling 
it can be made brilliantly clear and can be colored 
to any desired tint. Set in moulds in a cold place 
until firm and solid, then turned out on a dish cov¬ 
ered with a folded napkin. Gelee de Fraises— 
Strawberry jelly colored red with whole strawber¬ 
ries in it. Gelee de Mures Sauvages a la 
Creme —A border mould of blackberry jelly, with 
whipped cream in the center. Gelee a l’Ananas 
—Pineapple jelly, with pieces of pineapple in it. 
Gelee au Jus de Grenades —Pomegranate jelly. 







352 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


JEL 

Gelee a la Macedoine de Fruits— Maraschino 
flavored jelly with whole fruits in it. Gelee a la 
CiiARTREUSE-Jelly flavored with chartreuse liqueur. 
Gelee de Dantzic aux Fraises— Cherry-brandy 
jelly with whole strawberries. Gelee de Maras- 
quin aux Abricots — Maraschino jelly with 
halves of apricots in it. Gelee au Curacao— 
Curasao jelly. Gelee a la Panaciiee— A mould 
of two or more colors of jelly in layers; ribbon jelly. 
Gelee aux YTolettes Printanieres— Jelly fla¬ 
vored with an infusion of spring violet-flowers in 
syrup; orange-flowers are used the same way. 
Gelee a la Bacchante —Green jelly made with 
the juice of green grapes and spinach, sugar and 
champagne. Gelee a la Russe— Jelly whipped to 
a froth while cooling on ice, then moulded. Gelee 
Mousseuse a l’Eau de Vie —Whipped jelly with 
brandy. Gelee Fouettee aux Fruits— Whipped 
jelly with maraschino and smailfruits. WineJelly 
with Whipped Cream —A very acceptable com¬ 
bination of gelatine jelly made with one-third sherry 
or any good wine; served in saucer of whipped 
cream, or in a whole mould with whipped cream 



JELLY MOULD, 

And for puddings, aspics, creams, or ices. 

around it. Border Jellies — Border moulds are 
made; the outer rim to be filled with jelly and turned 
out when set, the well in the center of the jelly filled 
with whipped cream and perhaps strawberries and 
other such additions. Jelly with Ice Cream— 
Same plan as with whipped cream and best in hot 
weather. Gelees Variees —All jellies named for 
some fruit or liqueur are either made with a propor¬ 
tion of the juice of the fruit, or with pieces or slices 
set around the mould; or are flavored with the 
liqueurs; as benedictine, kummel, anisette, kirsch- 
wasser, etc. Gelee a la PARisiENNE-Fancy form; 
specialty. Two jellies, one colored pink and flavored 
with strawberry; other uncolored, flavored with 
kirschwasser; both portions whipped on ice, and be¬ 
fore set filled into the mould in alternate layers or 
portions; turned out on ornamental stand of candy. 
Glasses of Champagne —Fancy form; specialty. 
Clear, bright jelly filled in glasses in liquid state, 
whipped jelly on top; made cold. Glasses ofAle- 
Fancy form; specialty. Clear, brown jelly vanilla- 
flavored, filled in slender ale-glasses in liquid state, 
more jelly whipped to foam and piled on top. 


JEL 

Souffle Jellies—S ame plan as preceding, but red 
wine-jelly set solid an inch deep in a pan; foam of 
whipped jelly and white of egg flavored with maras¬ 
chino spread an inch deep on top when the first is set; 
all made very cold, cut out in blocks and served in 
glass-plates. iNDiviDUALjELLiES-There are moulds 
of all sorts and patterns to set jellies in, one mould 
to be served to each person. Tri-Colored Jellies- 
Set in small moulds, three kinds and colors of jelly 
or two jellies and one blanc mange or jaune mange', 
taken out of the moulds, cut in three downwards, 
the sections wetted with melted jelly, replaced in the 
moulds, one section of each color in each mould. 
(See Syllabub, Aspic, Pain de Peches .) 

JELLIES, FRUIT—The other class are the fruit- 
jellies, made and eaten as preserves. Rule: One 
pound sugar to each pint of expressed fruit-juice, 
boiled together till the fruit sets as jelly, when im¬ 
mersed in cold water or set on ice to try. Used to 
eat with meat, as currant-jelly with mutton and ven¬ 
ison, cranberry-jelly with turkey, and to spread in 
j^lly-cakes, fill tarts, etc.. 

JELLIES, IMITATION-Made of (/) i pt. water, 
oz. pulverized alum, boiled a minute or two, 4 lbs. 
white sugar, boiled a short time, strained, colored 
variously, flavored with oils or essences to imitate 
fruit jellies. (2) 3^ lbs. commonest gelatine in 2)4 
gals, water with 30 lbs. sugar, boiled until gelatine 
is all dissolved, colored as desired, % oz. tartaric 
acid added, taken from the fire, dissolved, flavored, 
allowed to get cold in pails or glasses Makes 50 lbs. 
Glucose also is largely used in making bogus jellies, 
and the jams and preserves of the same class are 
made fruity with shredded turnips boiled in pine¬ 
apple-flavored glucose. “A year or two since a man 
found himself with a large crop of red currants, 
and he manufactured them into “jam,” or “jelly,” 
using the best of sugar, and producing a most ex¬ 
cellent article. He found the hotels supplied with a 
heap, impure article, manufactured from glucose 
and acids and colored to resemble somewhat in color 
and taste currant jelly, which could be procured at 
retail even lower than he could afford his at whole¬ 
sale. The result was the enterprising man had a 
large quantity left on hand. But we haven’t heard 
of his manufacturing any more ‘pure currant jelly’ 
for market. A few years since a gentleman in Union 
village started the manufacture of apple-jelly, and 
he produced a very pure and delicious article, which 
should have commanded a ready sale at hotel?, 
bakeries and in families, for the table and for pies, 
tarts, etc. But the business did not prosper, we 
think. At all events it was suspended. An in¬ 
ferior article, made up largely of adulterations, 
which ‘answered the purpose,’ took the trade.” Bo¬ 
gus Jellies —An American physician tells how the 
cheap jellies which some bakers put into their tarts 
and jelly cakes are made, as follows: Take 4 qts. 
water and )4 lb. alum; boil 2 minutes, add 32 lbs. of 
white sugar; boil 5 minutes longer, strain while it 
is warm (and the hotter it is strained the easier) 




















































THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


353 


* JEL 

through a coarse towel; when nearly cold, add 2 ozs. 
of acetic acid, and lb. of real currant jelly 
When cool, pack it in tumblers. If you de¬ 
sire a vanilla jelly, add in place of currant jam four 
25-cent bottles of extract of vanilla, and stir when 
nearly cold. If you desire strawberry jam, prepare 
the alum and sugar as before, and add pt. of 
essence of strawberry. Or if lemon is desired, add 
essence of lemon. You can make what you like with 
these proportions of alum and sugar. “ This is th 
way to make the grocers’ jelly and jam that are 
placed in the confectioneries and bakeries.” 

JELLY CAKE—Two, three or more thin sheets 
of genoise or pound or other cake spread with jelly 
and placed one upon another. Jelly Slices— 
Several fancy forms of sliced jelly cake iced or or¬ 
namented. Jelly Pie, Savory— Deep dish with 
hard boiled eggs in bottom and slices of fowl, etc., 
seasoned with crust on top, filled with meat jelly; 
eaten cold. Jelly Pie, Sweet —Fruit jelly and 
custard mixed together; baked in a crust. Jelly 
Pudding —A bread custard or corn-starch custard 
baked, spread over with jelly, and meringued; same 
as queen pudding and Oswego pudding. Jelly 
Roll —Thin sheets of sponge cake spread with jelly, 
rolled up, wetted Avith syrup, rolled in sugar. 

JERSEY PUDDING—Boiled pudding, made of 
2 oz. ground rice, 1 oz. flour, 2 oz sugar, 4 oz. butter; 
all worked together; 2 oz. chopped raisins, grated 
lemon-rind, 3 eggs, 2 spoons milk; well mixed; 
boiled in a mould 3 hours; lemon sauce. 

JERSEY WONDERS, OR CAKES—Crullers; 
a rich and crisp sort of doughnuts not made with 
yeast, not very light; in the form of strips tied up in 
a knot made of (/) One pound sugar, lb. butter, 6 
eggs, pt. milk, 2 teaspoons baking powder, Hour 
to make dough of it; ( 2 ) Another less rich, of 6 oz. 
sugar, 6 oz. butter, Seggs, a glass of brandy, flavor¬ 
ing extracts, 2 lbs. flour; made into dough; cut in 
strips, or shapes, or rings; fried in hot lard. 

JEWISH COOKERY—While the Jews do not 
excel in high-class cookery, perhaps on account of 
their restrictions in regard to materials, what they 
have is essentially good and of a wholesome char¬ 
acter. The religion of the Jews provides that its 
followers shall observe certain customs, amongst 
which those relating to foods are particularly string¬ 
ent and have evidently been drawn up with extreme 
care. Diseased materials, meals Avhich cannot be 
easily digested, or which are liable to be diseased, 
such as veal and pork, are discountenanced. The 
meat must moreover be thoroughly cleansed, and 
fish is strongly recommended as an adjunct to a gen¬ 
erous feast of vegetables and fruit. At least once a 
year the subject of Jewish cookery and its peculiar 
restrictions is brought to the consideration of the 
stewards or caterers of the generality of hotels on 
the approach of the Jewish Feast of the Passover, 
which partakes of the nature of a fast as well as a 
feast, or a fast before the feast, on account of the re- 


JEW 

striction in the case of the bread and pastry which 
may be eaten at that time, and it becomes embar¬ 
rassing when perhaps ajewish rabbi and members 
of his congregation live in the hotel if their partic¬ 
ular requirements at that season cannot be provided 
for want of the requisite knowledge. Passover - 
week, the great feast held by the Jews all over the 
world to commemorate their deliverance from the 
land of bondage 5,000 years ago, occurs in the spring, 
near the time of the Christian Easter, generally be¬ 
fore it. The law of Moses forbids them to do any 
servile work during that week. The reform Jews 
hold high festival only on the first and last days; 
orthodox Jews observe four days. On the other 
days servile work may be done; but all Jews 
must abstain from eating leavened bread. Pastry 
containing flour is denied them, but they substitute 
it with potato meal, and they are prohibited from 
drinking malt liquors or spirits which are made 
from grain. On the eve of the passover they hold 
solemn religious services, after this comes the great 
feast, and such is the lavishness of the Jews at this 
season they lay their tables with all the delicacies 
their religion allows them; and all Jews, whether 
master or servant, rich employer or poor menial, 
sit at the same table and paitake of the same fare. 
This is to remind them that in Egypt they were all 
slaves and equal. Emblematic Basin —Among 
other curious observances one consists in the head 
of the family having set before him a dish contain¬ 
ing a roasted shankbone of a lamb, a large stick of 
horse-radish with the top on, a bunch of chervil, 
mustard and cress, a roasted egg, almonds, cinna¬ 
mon, raisins, smashed up together and pulverized 
in a species of mortar. This is an important rite. 
The shank of the lamb symbolizes the Passover 
lamb; the roasted egg commemorates the festival 
egg; the bitter herbs recall the bitter lives of the 
Israelites in Egypt; and the bruised rasins, almonds 
and wine represent the mortar which their ancestors 
used in making bricks for the Pharaohs. Jewish 
Butcher’s Meat —An extra supply of kosher meat 
is required at the Passover season, and the Jewish 
butchers’ shops look like our butchers’ shops at 
Christmas. The Shochet —The man who kills 
the animals is called a shochet; he puts his seal on 
every animal that is kosher (pure), but if the least 
spot or blemish is discovered—although it does not 
in the least detract from the quality of the meat - 
the official seal is withheld, and the “unclean” ar¬ 
ticles must be consumed by Gentiles. As is known 
generally, the Jews are forbidden to use the blood 
of any meat, and very particular methods are em¬ 
ployed at the slaughtering of kosher animals to pre¬ 
vent any blood remaining in the carcase. Shell-fish 
were once forbidden to the Jews; pork is forbidden 
alike to Jew and Mohammedan. Passover Soup— 
Beef soup with vegetables and motsa balls, like 
quenelles, noques, or klose. Made or 4 lbs. beef 
and a shin bone and calf’s foot, carrots, turnips, 
celery, fried onions, sweet herbs, pepper, salt, sim. 






354 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


JEW 

mered S hours, strained, freed from fat. Motsa 
Balls —Cracker dust 8 oz., suet 2 oz., eggs 4, salt, 
pepper, ginger, nutmeg. Worked up to a paste, 
made in balls, boiled in the soup. Jewish Stewed 
Fish —Served cold. Sliced onions are simmered 
till done in water, with butter, pepper and salt, 
pieces of fish on top of the onions, covered and 
stewed till done. Liquor strained off, juice of 2 
lemons, and 3 beaten yolks mixed in, and heated till 
thickened custard-like without quite boiling; poured 
over the fish in a dish; parsley. Jewish Fried 
Fish —One of the great delicacies of the Jewish 
festival season is fried fish. Where thejewish com¬ 
munity is sufficiently numerous to support a fried 
fish, shop but little fish is cooked in private houses, 
but these shops supply all, making a specialty of 
the trade of frying, like the Roman fry-shops or 
the Parisian rotisseries, or meat roasters for the pub¬ 
lic. One such shop in Middlesex street, London, 
has been established over 200 years. Salmon, hali¬ 
but and soles are the kinds of fish preferred, and 
enormous quantities are sold. From these fry-shops 
the cooked fish is sent to the residences of the 
wealthy Jews, and not only that, but to the hospitals 
for Jewish patients and to the prisons for Jewish de¬ 
linquents. How it is Cooked— After being cut 
into pieces, the fish is dropped in a basinful of bat¬ 
tered eggs, then coated with motsa meal made of 
crushed Passover cake and then fried in salad oil. 
This system of cooking in oil is not an original habit 
of the Jews. They carried it with them from Spain 
: after the Inquisition. They seldom eat fried fish hot, 
they prefer it cold. Jewish Smoked Meat—Is pre¬ 
pared by the Jewish butchers and can be bought of 
them. Is cooked by. parboiling, then taking up, 
iskimming the liquor and cooling it, and putting 
back the meat and gently steaming till quite tender; 
served with vegetables. Chorissa —Jewish sau¬ 
sage; is prepared by the Jewish butchers; is boiled 
and braised, served with rice. Passover Frit¬ 
ters— Motsa meal (cracker dust) eggs and little su¬ 
gar worked to a stiff batter, fried by spoonfuls in 
hot oil. Eaten with syrup or sugar. Jewish Ap¬ 
ple Fritters —Same as the preceding with chop¬ 
ped apples in the batter. Jewish Almond Pud¬ 
ding —Sort of almond souffle, made of 1 lb. almonds 
crushed, 2 oz. bitter almonds, 1 lb. powdered sugar, 

1 4 eggs, 6 yolks more, 3 tablespoons orange flower 
water. The eggs, water and sugar beaten together 
20 minutes, same as sponge cake, the powdered al¬ 
monds added instead of the flour which would be in 
sponge cake; baked. Jewish Motsa Pudding— 
About a pound of Passover cakes (water crackers) 
soaked in water, squeezed, made up into a plum 
pudding with the usual fruit and suet, either boiled 
or baked. Passover Rock Cakes— Made of lb. 
butter, y 2 lb. sugar, y Hi. each Motsa meal (meal of 
crushed water-crackers) and currants, 2 oz. ground 
almonds, 4 eggs. Worked up to cake dough with 
more meal if necessary; rough lumps like rocks 
propped on pans, stuck over with blanched almonds; 


JOH 

baked. Jewish Passover Cake or Motsa —There 
is not much taste in a Passover cake, huge pyra¬ 
mids of which are piled up in the Jewish bakers’ 
and grocers’ shops. There is in Amsterdam a fac¬ 
tory engaged in the production on a large scale of 
passover or unleavened bread. Although the con¬ 
sumption does not last more than a week, the fac 
tory is busy from the end of November or the be¬ 
ginning of December till Eastertide. A large por¬ 
tion of the goods is exported to other countries. 
The motsa consists of a large round thin cake about 
15 inches in diameter, made simply out of flour and 
water well kneaded, and baked to crispness; it must 
not contain yeast, powder, shortening, nor any rais¬ 
ing ingredient. There are two varieties; the motsas 
are larger than pancakes, and thin as wafers. Great 
precaution is taken to obtain the proper sort of flour. 
The authorities of the different synagogues com¬ 
bine on this occasion, get the flour especially ground, 
and license men to sell it. The price is specially 
put in order to have a surplus for the poor. The 
Mitzvehs — Are thicker. Passover cakes eaten 
on the first two nights of the festival. They are 
thick enough to be split open and toasted, or soaked 
in milk and fried. Motsa MEAL-Itwill be observed 
that the use of motsa meal or crushed almonds in any 
sort of cake or pudding is a substitution for flour 
which is forbidden to be used in pastry at the Pass- 
over season; otherwise the pastries are not peculiar 
or special. The thin motsas are hard water-crackers 
in effect, and to make the meal they are rolled to dust 
and sifted. Passover Drinks— A special depart¬ 
ment is set apart by Jewish bar-keepers for Passover 
drinks, which, as has been stated, must not consist 
of anything made from grain—the ‘corn’ of thebible 
meaning all kinds of grain. 

JOHN DORY— Jean Dore or Saint Pierre— 
A sea-fish common in French :.nd English markets, 
of singular appearance and excellent quality. “On 
the Brittany coast, crabs, dorys, mullets, and fifty 
other varieties are plentiful. The dory is here called 


JOHN DORY, JAUNE DORE, OR SAINT PIERRE. 

la bete du bon dieu , it being a superstition that it was 
the first thing in the waters under the earth that was 
created, the round black marks on the sides being 
supposed to be the traces of the Creator’s fingers.” 
Jean Dore a la Cremeriere— Boiled in milk and 
water; served with sauce of cream, butter and lemon 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


355 


, JOH 

juice. Jean Dore en Matelote MARiNiERE-Dory 
baked, and served with oyster sauce. Jean Dore a 
la Bateliere —Dory boiled; served with button - 
onions, mushrooms and essence of anchovy in white 
sauce. Jean Dore a la Puree de Crevettes— 
Dory cut up and stewed; served in a puree of shrimps 
with butter and Bechamel sauce. Dory Boiled— 
The fins are cut off, the fish placed in a fish kettle 
with 3 oz. salt to i gl. water; the water brought to a 
boil gradually and simmered till the fish is done; 
served with caper sauce.—The name is said to be a 
corruption of yaune, yellow. Dore is golden. 

JOHNNY CAKE—American common name for 
any sort of plain corn-bread; originally a cake of 
corn-meal, salt and water baked on a board set up 
before an open fire. 

JOLIE FILLE SAUCE (Fr.)-Fair maid’s sauce. 
White chicken-sauce with hard-boiled yolks, bread¬ 
crumbs, butter, and parsley. 

JORDAN ALMONDS — Best quality of table- 
almonds. 

JUBILEE PUDDING—(/) A border-mould of 
claret jelly, center filled with whipped cream mixed 
with cut candied fruits and preserved ginger. (2) A 
hot vermicelli-pudding made like a bread-custard 
and baked; strawberry jam and cream spread on top, 
and meringued over—like queen pudding. 

JUMBLES—Small ring-cakes, various qualities; 
best made of 1 lb. sugar, y 2 lb. butter, S eggs, lemon 
flavor, flour to make soft dough; forced through a 
star-tube in rings on paper; baked. 

JUNKET—English dish of cream and milk curd¬ 
led with rennet and flavored with brandy; eaten 
with short-cake. The cream is whipped and spread 
•on top of the curd. 

14 . 

KALE—Sea-kale, a kind of cabbage-greens, like 
cabbage in taste, like endive in appearance; obtain¬ 
able early in spring when other vegetables are 
scarce; should be partially blanched by the garden¬ 
ers by being grown under cover, as the whitest is 
the best and tenderest. Cooked like spinach and 
•other greens. 

KABOBS OR KEBOBS—Meat in slices cooked 
on skewers. It is English or Anglo-Indian. The 
method is followed extensively in this country, but 
the word is not used; we call kebobs brochettes. 
Kebobs or brochettes of meat of any kind have ei¬ 
ther two kinds of meat or something between the 
meat, as a slice of liver and bacon alternately is 
kebobed liver, slices of pork with a piece of onion 
Between each slice is a pork kebob, mutton chops 
■egged and breaded, then a skewer run through the 
whole bunch, with perhaps a slice of fat salt pork 
between each chop, is another form of kebob or 
■brochette. 

KANGAROO TAILS—These can be bought in 
cans. To prepare for the table the can is warmed, 


KID 

the jell}' and gravy drawn off and made into a hot 
sauce with poit wine and seasonings, strained, the 
pieces of tail put in it; served with croutons of fried 
bread around. 

KARTOFFELN (Ger.)—Potatoes. 

KEDGEREE—Anglo-Indian term like kebob. 
It means “twice cooked.” Is not any one thing but 
a rechauffe or warm-up of fish, eggs or meat with 
rice or potatoes or boiled peas. (/)-Cold fish and 
hard-boiled eggs cut up in butter, baked on a layer 
of mashed potatoes till all are hot through. (2)-Hard 
boiled eggs and fried onions mixed, and served on 
a bed of porridge made of boiled peas and boiled 
rice, mixed together with butter, etc. 

KID—Young kid is as freely purchased and eaten 
in some sections of this country as young lamb and 
is as good. It is often, however, sold for lamb, which 
is a fraud on the buyer. To Know Kid from Lamb 
—Observe the lower joint of the fore-leg; the goat’s 
leg from the knee to the hoof is one-third shorter 
than the sheep’s. If the lower joint is cut off by the 
butcher there is no way of knowing the difference, 
but it is the common shop practice to dress lambs 
with all the fore-leg left on except the hoof, and to 
do otherwise in the kid season will be a suspicious 
proceeding. California Kid —“The editor of the 
Los Angeles Herald asked me how I would like to 
go out some day and help him eat a kid. I had never 
eaten any kids, but I did not want to show my ig¬ 
norance, so I told him I should like it above all 
things. I thought maybe there was a time here when 
the people thought they must eat a kid or two, and 
I did not want to stop their pleasure, so I agreed to 
go. I thought maybe if I did not like the kid, when 
the time came they would let me lunch on a harness 
tug or something. He set Sunday as the day, and 
the result is I am just about as full of youthful goat 
as a man can be, and if I don’t bleat before morning 
it will be strange. Lynch has a friend* who keeps 
an Italian restaurant, where everything is cooked 
right. Once a year or so he secures a young kid and 
keeps it until it is about six weeks old, feeding it on 
nothing but its mother’s milk. It never eats a spear 
of grass and is simply fed on milk. The kid is taken 
off into a canyon, away from the vile city, beside 
mountain streams, killed and dressed and cooled, and 
placed on sticks over the embers of a fire, and 
roasted, being basted and turned frequently, and 
when done to a turn it is placed upon an impro¬ 
vised table, camp fashion, and the happy, hungry 
man who has an invitation to that dinner begins to 
get to his work. I had wondered, all the way, 
whether I could eat goat. I had thought of all the 
goats I had ever met around livery stables, and could 
remember just how they smelled, but when I first 
got a smell of that cremated kid I wondered if tjiere 
would be any of it left for the rest of the party. I 
have eaten many delicious dishes in my time, but I 
never ate anything so delicious as the kid of to-day, 
roasted by my Italian friends and aided by some Los 




356 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


KID 

Angeles claret and plenty of mountain air, while 
the mountain stream at our feet sang so joyously, 
and I will go further to enjoy another half of a small 
goat, if I ever get the chance, than to partake of any 
meal that can be produced.” Goat Mutton— “A 
fine billy-goat, weighing 56 lbs., formed the gastro¬ 
nomic feature of a feast recently given by the pro¬ 
prietor of the Duke of Lancaster, Royton, Lanca¬ 
shire. About fifty guests sat down to supper, and 
according to a local chronicler, ‘there was but one 
opinion expressed at the finish of the appetizing 
meal, that the flesh of the animal partaken of was 
equal in all respects to the finest Southdown.’ Kid’s 
flesh, we know from personal experience, is not half 
bad, but the thought of billy-goat in his prime is too 
appalling.” 

KIDNEYS—Mutton kidneys are agreat breakfast 
specialty in England; grilled kidneys are only pre¬ 
vented from being as universally served as the na¬ 
tional eggs and bacon by their dearness; the demand 
is always greater than the supply, and the price is 
high, accordingly. Australia, which exports so 
much mutton, now sends to England sheep-kidneys 
in a frozen state, and the coveted delicacy may soon 
be obtainable by people of moderate means incon¬ 
sequence. Broiled KiDNEYS-The kidneys skinned 
are cut open without quite severing the two halves, 
and a thin skewer run through them edgewise to 
keep them in flat shape for broiling; dipped in butter, 
laid on gridiron cut-side down; broiled 3 minutes; 
turned, and broiled 3 minutes more; served with 
mciitre d'hotel butter. How to Eat Kidneys— 
“Kidneys should be eaten directly they are dressed, 
else they will lose their goodness. They are also 
uneatable if too much done, and a man that cannot 
eat meat underdone should not have them at his table. 
In France they are saute with champagne or chab- 
lis.” Mutton Kidneys with Mushrooms —Sliced 
kidneys fried in a pan with butter till slightly 
brown; sliced mushrooms added, and brown sauce, 
lemon juice, butter, salt, pepper, parsley. Stewed 
Kidneys —Any kind; same as the preceding without 
brown sauce ready; but flour stirred in, and water 
added; simmered to thicken. Kidneys in Cream — 
Beef, veal or mutton kidneys parboiled in two or 
three waters to get rid of the brown gravy that comes 
from and curdles on them; chopped fine, put into 
cream sauce with parsley. Brochettes of Kid¬ 
neys —Slices strung on a skewer, saute in a pan with 
butter, or in the oven, and finished on the gridiron; 
served on the skewer if it is silver, or slipped off the 
skewer on to toast, and sauce poured over. Savory 
Butter for Kidneys —One pound butter, 6 oz. 
finely chopped shallots, 4 oz. chopped parsley, pep¬ 
per, salt, lemon juice; worked together. Fried 
Kidneys and Salt Fork— Equal number of slices 
of each; fried together, and gravy made in the pan. 
Curried Kidneys —Onion and sour apple chopped 
and fried; curry powder added, and broth or water; 
split kidneys put in; simmered, thickened; served 
with rice. Kidney Patties— Patty cases filled with 


KIS 

(/) the kidneys in cream, above; ( 2 ) kidneys, ham 
and mushrooms cut in dice, fried together; thick, 
sauce added. Rognons de Mouton a l’Epicuri- 
ENNE-Mutton kidneys cut open, bread-crumbed and 
broiled; the hollows filled with tartar sauce, and 
devil sauce around. Rognons de Mouton a la 
VENITIENNE-K idneys in halves fried in butter with 
shallots; dressed on a border; brown sauce with an¬ 
chovy butter. Rognons de Mouton au Vin de 
CHAMPAGNE-T hin slices of kidneys parboiled, sim¬ 
mered in butter; served in white sauce with cham¬ 
pagne and mushrooms. Petits Pates aux Rog- 
NONS-Kidney patties, as above previously described. 
Rognon de Veau Saute—C alf’s kidney minced,, 
stirred up in a pan With butter; brown sauce and 
wine added. Rognon de Veau en Caisse —Small 
round slices of veal kidney in brown sauce with 
shallots and mushrooms; baked in small paper cases,, 
the tops sprinkled with bread-crumbs. Rognon de 
Veau a la Jardiniere—S pecialty of Paris restau¬ 
rant. Kidneys in slices skewered edgewise, cooked, 
in kidney fat with vegetables, covered with buttered 
paper; drained, taken off skewers, glazed, placed in 
dish; peas on one side, green beans on other, glazed 
spring carrots at one end, duchesse potatoes to fin¬ 
ish. Tomato sauce separate. 

KINGFISH—A southern sea fish of the Spanish 
mackerel variety. It is boiled and served with 
Hollandaise sauce, or baked with fine herbs, or split 
and broiled in the usual way for all fish, served with 
maitre d'hotel butter spread upon it and garnished 
with parsley and lemons. Fillets of Kingush 
a la Colbert —Boneless sides seasoned, dipped in 
flour, then in egg and hread-crumbs, fried; maitre- 
d ’ hotel butter, parsley and lemons. 

KING’S RINGS—King’s rings is a French dish 
fit for a king. Make a little delicate mince-meat 
simply of veal or chicken, carefully flavored to taste, 
and enclose it in rings of carrots cut in slices. The 
success of this dainty depends entirely on the fla¬ 
voring. 

KIPPERED FISH—Smoked fish. Kippered 
Salmon— Smoked salmon. Kippered Herrings. 
Common smoked herrings. “And the process by 
which herrings are determined as ‘bloaters’ or 
‘kippers’ were explained to him. The work was. 
going on in full swing, the strapping Scotch lassies 
and women almost running about their work, with 
no head-dress but a shawl—brawny-looking Ama¬ 
zons.” 

KIRSCHWASSER (Ger.)—Liqueur made from 
cherry juice. The name signifies cherry-water.. 
Sorbet au Kirsch— Punch flavored with kirsch- 
wasser. The cherry-seed flavor of this spirit makes 
it very good for all sorts of cakes, ices and sweets. 

KISELLE (Fr.) — Corn-starch jelly, made by 
thickening boiling raspberry syrup with starch 
enough to make it jelly when cold. 

KISSES— Common popular name for meringues; 
of cake icing baked on paper; also, certain candies. 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


£57 


KITCHEN OF THE PHARAOHS—“Nothing 
is more curious and interesting in that remarkable 
discovery lately made by Mr. Flinders Petrie in the 
loneliest and dreariest corner of the north-eastern 
Delta, where he has actually unearthed ‘ Pharaoh’s 
house in Tahpanhes,’ of which we read in Jer. xliii, 
than the perfect condition in which the kitchen and 
servants’ offices have been found. The kitchen, 
which was in use nearly three thousand years ago, 
is a large room with recesses in the thickness of the 
walls, which served for dressers. Here some four¬ 
teen large jars and two large flat dishes were found 
by Mr. Petrie standing in their places, unharmed 
amid the general destruction, as they may have 
stood when the fugitive daughters of Zedekiah, 
then a dethroned and mutilated captive in Babylon, 
were brought to Pharaoh’s palace in Tahpanhes by 
Johanan, the son of Kareah, followed by ‘ all the 
captains of the forces ’ and ‘the remnant of Judah.’ 
A pair of stone corn-rubbers, a large iron knife, 
various weights, and three small flat iron-pokers— 
or possibly spits—were also found in the kitchen. 
The butler’s pantry was, of course, the room to 
which wine jars were brought from the cellars to be 
opened. It contained no amphoras, but hundreds of 
jar-lids and plaster amphorae-stoppers, some 
stamped with the royal ovals of Psammetichus, and 
some with those of Necho, his successor. Here 
also was found a pot of resin. The empty amphorae, 
with quantities of other pottery, mostly broken, 
were piled in a kind of rubbish depot close by. 
Some of these amphorae have the lute-shaped hiero¬ 
glyph signifying nefer (good) scrawled three times 
in ink upon the side, which, not to speak it pro¬ 
fanely, may probably indicate some kind of ‘XXX’ 
for Pharaoh’s consumption. Most curious of all, 
however, is the small apartment evidently sacred to 
the scullery maid. It contains a recess with a sink; 
a built bench to stand things upon; and recesses in 
the wall by way of shelves, in which to place what 
had been washed up. The sink is formed of a large 
jar with the bottom knocked out, and filled with 
broken potsherds placed on edge. The water ran 
through this and thence into more broken pots be¬ 
low, placed one in another, all bottomless, going 
down to the clean sand some four to five feet below. 
The potsherds in this sink were covered with or¬ 
ganic matter and clogged with fish-bones. In some 
of the chambers of the palace there have been found 
large quantities of early Greek vases, ranging from 
550 b. c. to 600 b. c. This discovery of the palace 
of Pharaoh in Tahpanhes is by far the most inter¬ 
esting yet made in connection with the Egypt Ex¬ 
ploration Fund.” 

KOHL-RABI — The turnip-rooted cabbage, or 
above-ground turnip; a root very much like a cab¬ 
bage stalk in taste. Is said to be best when cooked 
with the outside peel on and peeled after cooking. 
It is then cut in large dice and put in white sauce or 
brown, or chopped in cream, or served with small 


KOU 

pieces of boiled bacon, or mashed or cooked in any¬ 
way that other vegetables are. 

KOONTIE—The “koontie,” a plant which grows 
in Florida, has been called the “Indian bread root,” 
and the meal or flour made from it is very much 
like the arrow-root of commerce. It makes a beau¬ 
tiful white flour, of which bread and puddings are 
made which are delicious and especially invaluable 
for invalids. The Indians and natives have used 
it for bread for many years, and people who have 
tried it think there is a fortune in store for anyone 
who will engage extensively in the manufacture of 
“koontie” flour. 

KOSHER (Hcb.)—Pure. See Jewish cookery. 

KOUMISS—Fermented milk. This is a regular 
article of sale in the large cities. The taste is much 
like buttermilk. Some like it as a beverage, others 
drink it for their health. At the drug stores where 
sold it is in bottles kept on ice, and the purchaser 
is asked whether he wishes it fresh, medium, or 
old. The old bottled koumiss contains a small per 
cent, of alcohol, developed from the yeast-ferment¬ 
ation of the milk, it discharges the cork from the 
bottle with force like wine. The real original kou¬ 
miss is made of mare’s milk and is a Russian-Tartar 
drink, originated by the tribes on the steppes of 
Tartary. Koumiss made in this country is of cow’s 
milk. There are certain differences which result in 
there being less alcohol in American than in Rus¬ 
sian koumiss. Government Report: “Fermented 
mare’s milk has long been a favorite beverage irr 
the East, where it is known as ‘koumiss.’ Al¬ 
though the Tartars and other Asiatic tribes use 
mare’s milk for the manufacture of koumiss, yet it 
is not the only kind that can be employed. Since 
the consumption of milk-wine has extended west¬ 
ward cow’s milk is chiefly emploj^ed for making it 
both in Europe and America. Mare’s milk is con¬ 
sidered most suitable for fermentation because of 
the large percentage of milk-sugar which it con¬ 
tains. Dr. Stahlberg, who brought forty mares- 
from the steppes of Russia to Vienna for the pur¬ 
pose of using their milk foi n.oumiss, found its per¬ 
centage of lactose to be 7.26. On the other hand, 
ordinary mares that were kept at work gave a millc 
containing only 5.95 per cent, sugar. The quantity 
of milk-sugar in a mare’s milk is great, but there is- 
a deficiency of felt and other solids. It appears to 
contain fully 89 per cent, water, while cow’s milk 
does not have more than S7 per cent. The mares 
from which the milk was taken were on exhibition 
at the London International Exposition for 1SS4. 
These animals were obtained from the South-east¬ 
ern Russia. The mares were from 5 to 6 years old, 
and were cared for and milked by natives of the 
country from which they were taken. When milked 
five times daily the best of these mares gave from 
four to five litres of milk. The process of manufact¬ 
ure is not uniform. In the East the mare’s milk is 
placed in leathern vessels; to it is added a portion? 







358 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


KRO 

of a previous brewing, and also a little yeast. In 
thirty to forty-eight hours the process is complete. 
During this time the vessels are frequently shaken. 
Good cow’s milk, however, is suitable for the man¬ 
ufacture of koumiss after most of the cream has 
been removed. Should it be desired to make a kou¬ 
miss richer in alcohol, some milk-sugar could be 
added. In the samples analyzed by me the milk 
was treated with a iactic ferment and yeast. After 
twenty-four to forty-eight hours’ fermentation the 
koumiss was bottled. The bottles were kept in a cool 
place, not above 50 degrees F., and in a horizontal 
position. When shipped to me they were packed 
in ice. After they were received in the laboratory 
they were kept on ice until analyzed. The samples 

analyzed were kindly furnished by Mr.-of 

Indianapolis. This koumiss makes a delighfully 
refreshing drink. When drawn from the bottle and 
poured a few times from glass to glass it becomes 
thick like whipped cream, and is then most palata¬ 
ble. It is much relished as a beverage, and is high¬ 
ly recommended by physicians in cases of imper¬ 
fect nutrition. As made in London— A small quan¬ 
tity of a preparation, usually consisting of yeast, 
honey, alcohol, and a little flour, is added to warm 
milk or milk and water. The whole is stirred, both 
to aerate it and to prevent it from turning acid; 
a faint odor announces the establishment of fer¬ 
mentation, and at the proper time it is poured into 
bottles, like those used for champagne, which are 
then corked and wired. American Recipe —Fill 
a quart champagne bottle up to the neck with pure 
milk; add two tablespoonfuls of white sugar, after 
■dissolving the same in a little water over a hot fire; 
add also a quarter of a two-cent cake of compressed 
yeast. Then tie the cork on the bottle securely, 
and shake the mixture well; place it in a room of 
the temperature of 50 to 95 degrees F., for six hours, 
and finally in the ice box over night. 

KROMESKIES—Russian croquettes. Croquette 
mixture of any material, meat, fish, chopped oys¬ 
ters, chicken or anything, rolled up into shape of 
bottle corks, then rolled up in the thinnest possible 
shavings of cold boiled bacon, dipped into batter, 
fried like fritters in hot lard. Served with fried 
parsley or caper or other sauce. 

KUCIIEN (Ger.)—Cake of any kind. Apfel- 
kuchen— Apple cake. 

KUMMEL—The chief liqueur of Russia, made 
of cumin seed and caraway seed in sweetened spirit. 

L,. 

LACTOMETER — Glass instrument for ascer¬ 
taining the quality of milk. {See Milk.) 

LADY-FINGERS—The well known finger bis¬ 
cuits or Savoy biscuits made of sponge cake batter 
laid in finger lengths on paper. 

LAFAYETTE FISH—A sea-chubb, so called 
from having appeared in great numbers at the time 
■of Lafayette’s visit to America; it was thought to 


LAK 

be a new species and a name was sought for it. 
Cooked by flouring and frying. 

LAFAYETTE CAKE—Jelly cake with many 
layers piled high, iced over and ornamented. Flat 
jelly cakes with colored icings are also sold by the 
same name. 

LAGER BEER—The annual manufacture of beer 
in this country is about 19,000,000 barrels. Count¬ 
ing 1,000 glasses to a barrel, no extravagant esti¬ 
mate, we have about 380 glasses per annum to every 
inhabitant of the United States. In this country 
there are three varieties usually known by the com¬ 
mon name of lager beer, though, strictly speaking, 
onty one of them is entitled to the adjective “lager.” 
The Winter, pot beer, schenk (or schank) beer, but 
sold as lager, is intended for immediate use, and is 
light, containing less than three percent, of alcohol; 
the true lager, or stored beer, should contain at least 
three and a half per cent, of alcohol; while the bock 
beer, the strongest of all the German beers, and so 
named from causing its customers to prance and 
tumble about like a buck or goat, contains as much as 
five per cent, alcohol. The latter is generally sold 
for only# few weeks in the beginning of summer, 
and is in great demand by amateurs of the beverage. 
At the lager beer cellers a costly apparatus is em¬ 
ployed to force air into the beer. It consists of an air 
pump which compresses air in a tank, a pipe con¬ 
nects the compressed air with the beer keg. In some 
places the kegs are packed in ice, in others where it 
is not drawn directly from the keg it is forced 
through a coil of pipe packed in ice and comes out 
ice cold. “ If the tale of the German is true, who 
says: 

‘ Gabrantius Konig von Brabant 
Der zuerst das Bier erfand.’ 

I bless the memory of the good King Gabrantius, 
and quaff my nut-brown ale and sparkling lager 
with the consolation of knowing that kings can do 
no more.” 

LAITANCES (Fr.)—Roes of fish. Laitances 
deCarpe —Carp roe. Laitances d’Alose —Shad 
roe. Coquilles de Laitances —Scalloped roes 
in shells. Casserole de Laitances —Roes in the 
saucepan; stewed roes in sauce. 

LAIT (Fr.)—Milk. Lait d’Amandes —Milk of 
almonds. Lait de Poule —A drink of milk and 
raw egg. 

LAITUE (Fr.)—Lettuce. 

LAKE TROUT—The Mackinaw trout; large fish 
of the trout family caught in the great American 
lakes; first quality, fine flavor; cream-colored or pink 
fleshed, inclined to softness, best when boiled. 
Large quantities are salted and sold by the barrel 
in brine. The methods and sauces suitable for sal¬ 
mon will be equally applicable to lake trout. 
Truite du Lac a la Montebello —Large trout, 
skinned on one side and that side larded with fat 
bacon, stuffed;'cooked in the oven with paper over 
and wine, broth and onion, etc., in the pan. Fish 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


359 


LAM 

taken up, pan liquor thickened with curry powder, 
butter and flour. Mushrooms, fish quenelles. 

LAMB—Lamb is the favorite meat of the Greeks 
and Turks. It is more exquisitely dressed in the 
Turkish kitchen than in that of any other country. 
Roast Lamb —In a dripping pan dashed with boil¬ 
ing water, cooked 15 minutes for each pound; bas¬ 
ted often. Ten minutes before taken up it is dredged 
with flour and basted with butter. Fat poured off, 
gravy made in pan and currant jelly mixed with it. 
Breast of Lamb with Peas— Cut in square pieces, 
floured and half fried, stock or water added, sim¬ 
mered tender, peas in the remaining liquor served 
with it. Lamb Cutlets aux Petits Pois —Cutlets 
breaded and fried; frills on the bones; border of 
mashed potatoes in dish hollowed in middle and 
filled with peas, mushroom sauce around, cutlets on 
the mushrooms around the central border. Lamb 
■Cutlets a la Demi-Deuil —When lamb cutlets are 
saute , it is usual to surround them with a border of 
truffles, which is called demi-deuil—a kind of half- 
mourning for the gentle creature. Lamb Cutlets 
and Stuffed Cucumbers —Ornamental dish; cu¬ 
cumbers hollowed and stuffed with bread forcemeat, 
stewed in milk, made cold, cut into rings, breaded, 
fried, cutlets with frills on bone arranged alternately 
in a crown, macedoine of vegetables in center. 
Saute d’Agneau aux Tomates —Paris restaurant 
specialty. Boned shoulder of lamb cut into 1 inch 
squares, fried in 4 oz. butter with 3 onions and 2 
-cloves of garlic; 12 tomatoes cut in halves, half fried 
in butter then added to the stew and all cooked 15 
minutes; croutons around. Lamb Cutlets au Par¬ 
mesan —Cutlets partly fried in butter to set them in 
shape, then dipped in white sauce made thick with 
grated cheese, breaded, egged, breadec^ again and 
fried. Lamb Cutlets with Young Carrots— 
Breaded cutlets with very small carrots cooked 
whole and seasoned with butter, chopped parsley, 
pepper, salt, sugar, lemon juice. Lamb Chops a la 
Princesse —Broiled chops dipped in white mush¬ 
room sauce, made cold, egged and breaded and fried. 
Served with asparagus in white sauce. Lamb Cut¬ 
lets a la Chatlelaine— Cutlets sauteed on one side, 
cooled, trimmed, the cooked side covered with puree 
of chicken and onion moistened with cream and egg. 
The uncooked side is next sauteed which sets the 
covering. Served with demi-glace and puree of 
green peas. Selles d’ Agneau a la Toulousaine 
-—Three saddles of lamb boned and served in tur¬ 
ban form. The meat is cut in fillets which are lar- 
-ded, half with lean ham, half with truffles; mari¬ 
naded in oil and lemon juice, arranged in alternate 
form with forcemeat between, covered with buttered 
paper, baked, served with financiere garnish. Lamb 
Cutlets a la Boulangere— Cutlets dipped in oil 
and flour, and broiled; cream sauce. Cotelettes 
t’Agneau aux Petits Legumes —Breaded and 
fried; julienne vegetables in brown sauce in the dish. 
Cotelettes d’Agneau a la Duchesse —Spread 
over with Duxelles sauce, made cold, breaded, fried; 


LAM 

served on a border or purbe of green peas.with 
mixed vegetables in white sauce in the center. Co¬ 
telettes d’Agneau a la PoMPADOUR-Cutlets half 
sauteed to set them in shape, coated with a mince of 
bacon, veal, truffles, herbs, seasonings, wrapped in 
buttered writing paper, cut to fit, cooked in the oven, 
but finished on the gridiron to make thebroiler marks. 
Served in the papers with their own gravy still in¬ 
closed. Cotelettes d’Agneau Farcies auxTruf- 
fes— Cutlets larded, coated with puree of truffles in 
thick sauce, made cold, then breaded and fried; 
brown sauce. Cotelettes d’Agneau en Belle¬ 
vue— Cold dish; larded ornamentally with tongue, 
etc., braised, laid in a dish, melted aspic poured 
over, cut out when cold with the coating of jelly 
upon them. Served with mayonnaise-aspic. Epi- 
gramme of Lamb— See epigramme . Blanquette 
d’Agneau— Small round slices of cooked Iamb and 
tongue in white sauce, with parsley and button 
mushrooms; served in a casserole or border. Ten- 
drons d’Agneau — The breast cut in pieces. 



LAMB CUTLETS. 

Macedoine in center, silver skewer and truffle, 
on ornamental stand of nouilles paste. 

Quartier d’Agneau a la Broche —Fore-quarter 
roasted. Quartier d’Agneau a la Hoteliere— 
Roasted and served in a sauce of viaitre d'hotel 
butter and cream. Cotes d’Agneau a la Chan- 
celiere —Fore-quarter to be served whole. The 
shoulder is cut off, the meat is chopped into a kind 
of well seasoned sausage meat, "put back on the ribs, 
breaded over, browned in the oven. Selle d’Ag¬ 
neau a la Bonne Fermiere — Roast saddle of 
lamb with a border of breaded lambs fries and mint 
sauce. Selle d’Agneau a l’Allemande —Saddle 
boned, stuffed, braised, served with vegetable gar¬ 
nish. Selle d’Agneau a la Villeroi —Boned, 
stuffed, braised, covered with thick Allemande 
sauce, grated cheese and bread-crumbs, browned. 
Gigot d’Agneau a la Palestine— Leg of lamb 
with puree of Jerusalem artichokes. Epaule d’Ag¬ 
neau a la Montmorency — Shoulder boned, 
stuffed, larded, braised, served with Toulouse gar¬ 
nish of mushrooms, etc. Pate Chaud d’Agneau 








360 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


LAM 

—Lamb pie, hot. Minced Lamb —Cooked lamb 
minced fine, seasoned highly, made hot in thick 
gravy, piled in middle of dish with poached eggs 
and fried croutons around. Lamb Cutlets with 
Puree of Mint —Cutlets % inch thick breaded, 
fried, served with mint sauce. Roast Lamb a la 
Dudley —Leg of lamb with skin removed, surface 
larded with strips of sweetbread and kidney; cov¬ 
ered with the caul fat of the lamb, roasted, mint 
sauce. 

LAMBS’ FRY—The “pluck;” heart, liver, lights, 
etc. Same as pigs’ fry, sheeps’ fry. (See next item.) 

LAMB FRIES—Club dish. May be broiled, 
fricasseed, and stewed in wine sauce, but are gen¬ 
erally fried. They are split or sliced, sprinkled 
with pepper, salt, lemon juice, dipped in flour, then 
in egg and bread-crumbs and fried. They are hard 
to fry dry and with the covering of crumbs un¬ 
broken, need plenty of room in plenty of fat that is 
very hot, otherwise they shrink away and are soaked 
with grease. Should be cooked only as wanted and 
served hot. May be served on a bed of mashed po¬ 
tatoes, or with peas. 

LAMBSQUARTER—Popular name of a kind of 
wild salad greens. (See Fett.cus.) 

LAMPREY—A kind of eel, thicker in proportion 
to its length, oily, not very abundant. Cooked in 
the same ways as eels, also potted by baking in a 
jar with butter and spices; eaten cold. Lamproie 
a l’Italienne —Fillets of lamprey stewed in wine 
with oil, onions, herbs and lemon juice. Lamproie 
au Supreme —Lamprey cut up, sauteed, served in 
sauce of red wine with truffles. 

LANDRAIL—A kind of snipe. 

LANGOUSTE (Fr.)—The crawfish or sea cray¬ 
fish; a small lobster. 

LANGUE (Fr.)—Tongue. Langue de Bceuf— 
Beef tongue. 

LAPEREAU (Fr.)—Young rabbit. 

LAPIN (Fr.)—Rabbit. 

LARDOONS (Fr.)—Shreds of bacon or pork. 

LARD (Fr.)—Bacon. 

LARDING MEAT—The inserting of strips of 
fat bacon or lardoons. 

LARDING NEEDLES—Long needles having 
the butt end like a tube split open to admit the strips 
of bacon for larding meat. 

LARD—A great deal of watered lard is now sold 
branded “pure,” and consumers should be on their 
guard against this imposition. A very simple test 
of purity is to drop a small piece of lard into a hot 
fire. If pure it burns smoothly, like oil; if watered 
it crackles and splutters. Watered lard is unnatur¬ 
ally white, and is colder to the tongue than pure 
lard. Buyers of refined lard should ask for a guar¬ 
antee that it is absolutely free from water. Lard is 
very much sophisticated in other ways. The deal¬ 
ers offer three or more grades, not pretending that 


LAV 

they are pure. Manufacturers testified before a 
committee of congress that about one third of the 
lard sold is composed of cotton-seed oil, combined 
with beef stearine and chemicals. The refined oil 
is as good as lard for some purposes, such as fry¬ 
ing, but ought to be at a lower price than lard. 
Stewards who wish to have lard used for making 
pastry, should buy the firmest and best, as soft lard 
is useless for that purpose. 

LARKS AND LARK-PIES — The common 
lark, which is called in Paris mauviette , is generally 
looked upon as a wholesome, delicate, and light 
game. It is dressed in various ways; and the gour¬ 
mets appreciate the value of the excellent lark-pies,, 
which have established the reputation of the town 
of Pithiviers in France. How to Judge Larks— 
The physician of Queen Anne, Dr. Lister, like his 
royal mistress a great gastronomer, appraised the 
goodness of larks by their weight. He laid down 
the rule, which has ever since been held sound, that 
twelve larks should weigh thirteen ounces, and that 
if below that weight they are not good. Larks a 
la Francaise —Pick and clean (leaving the livers 
in) six larks, cut off the heads, wing-bones, and feet 
just below the second joint; tie a piece of fat bacon 
over each, put them in a stewpan with a gill of 
chicken consomme, in which throw a dessert spoon¬ 
ful of chopped parsley, three chopped chives, one tea¬ 
spoonful of white pounded sugar; let them stew for 
fifteen minutes, add salt to taste, and serve with the 
sauce in which they have been stewed. Mau* 
viettes Grillees— Larks split open and broiled, on 
toast or fried bread. Mauviettes en Salmis— 
Salmis of larks. Mauviettes a la Chipolata— 
Cooked in the oven and served with a chipolata 
garnish of ^Jiestnuts, small sausages, etc. Mau¬ 
viettes en Caisse —The larks are boned, the bones 
and trimmings boiled with vegetables and bacon to 
make sauce; livers and chicken livers cut in dice, 
fried with onions, rubbed through a sieve; liver 
paste placed in the oiled paper cases, lark on top, 
slice of bacon over it, baked 15 minutes. Turban 
de Mauviettes a la Parisienne— Boned, stuffed 
with game forcemeat, braised, dished crown-shape, 
quenelles in center and game sauce. Mauviettes 
en Cotelettes —Boned larks, spread with force- 
me£t, breaded, browned in oven, served with brown 
sauce. Croustade de Mauviettes —Larks boned,, 
stuffed and baked in a croustade of fried bread. 
Lark Pie —Larks trimmed, stuffed with bread 
stuffing, seasoned; slices of bacon and beefsteak in 
a dish, larks on top, broth and seasonings, top crust 
of paste; baked an hour or more. (See Mauviette ,) 

LASAGNES — A kind of macaroni or Italian 
paste in the form of yellow ribbon. 

LAVER—An edible seaweed. In Ireland it is- 
called “sloke,” is cooked like spinach and is also 
fried in bacon fat after boiling; it is best to have a. 
porcelain saucepan to cook it in as it acts upon, 
metals, but is wholesome nevertheless. 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


3(31 


LAW 

LAW X TENXTS CAKE—A Richfield Spring's 
confectioner and restaurant-keeper is making and 
selling by the pound a cake which he calls lawn- 
tennis cake. It is a sort of Genoa cake iced over the 
surface and covered thickly with chopped pistachios. 

LEEK—A species of onion; the green leaves are 
flat like ribbons; not tubular like an onion, but the 
taste resembles onion. It is used in most soups 
when it can be obtained. Leeks as a Vegetable— 
Leeks are very good served on toast as asparagus. 
Trim the leeks and cut away the green till there is 
little left but the white part; clean thoroughly, and 
boil till tender. Pour good melted butter over them 
and serve very hot. Leek Soup a l’Ecossaise— 
“The leek was a favorite ingredient in the ‘cockie 
leekie,’ of which James I. is reported to have been so 
fond, that he retained his preference for it, notwith¬ 
standing all the dainties of London cookery.” Leek 
Soup alaPicarde —Leeks cut in shreds, half fried 
in butter, beef broth and sliced potatoes added, 
boiled; small toasts. Puree of Leeks —A soup 
made same way as with onions. Poireaux au Jus 
—Leeks cooked like asparagus and served with meat 
gravy. 

LEGUMES (Fr.)—Vegetables. 

LEIPZIG PANCAKFS-Sweet pancakes in pairs 
with jam between; they are raised with yeast, rolled 
■out thin like small crackers, and fried in a little lard. 

LEMON—Nearly everything in the sweet line is 
flavored with lemon sometimes, and lemon cream, 
lemon pudding, lemon cake, etc., have no definite 
form otherwise. Lemon Soup-Chicken broth thick¬ 
ened like custard with yolks and cream, and lemon 
juice added. Lemon Butter — Yolks, flour, and 
butter stirred into boiling lemon syrup. Used to fill 
tarts, spread jelly cakes, etc. Lemon HoNEY-Sugar 
dissolved in lemon juice with the grated rind and 
butter; boiled, and thickened with yolks; a kind of 
jam with neither wafer in it nor flour. Lemon Pie- 
{/) Butter, sugar, and eggs creamed together as for 
cake, grated rind and juice added, and bread¬ 
crumbs to make it like cake dough; baked in open 
pies. ( 2 ) Mixture of 1 lb. sugar, pts. water, 4 
lemons, 2 oz. butter, 5 oz. flour, 6 or 8 eggs; baked in 
open pies, meringued over. Lemon Cream Pie— 
Frangipane or pastry cream with grated rind and 
juice in it; baked as a custard pie; whipped cream 
spread over it when cold. Lemon Sponge —Lemon 
jelly whipped to froth while cooling; served with 
custard. (See ’Jellies.') Lemon Trifle —Whipped 
cream flavored with grated rind and juice, sugar, 
sherry, and nutmeg; served heaped in small glasses. 
Lemon Sauce for Fish and Fowls —Chopped 
lemon, without seeds, stewed in little water, mixed 
with white sauce or cream sauce. Sweet Pickled 
Lemons —To eat with game. Thin-skinned fruit to 
be chosen, the rind carved ornamentally with point 
of a penknife; lemons boiled until tender in sweet¬ 
ened water, then put in jar, strong syrup poured over 
boiling, reboiled and poured to them 3 times. 


LET 

Lemon Dumplings — Small round dumplings 
steamed, or boiled in a cloth; made of y 2 lb. bread¬ 
crumbs, y 2 lb. chopped suet, 1 lemon rind and juice, 
y lb. sugar, spoonful of milk, 2 eggs; boiled y 2 hour; 
wine sauce. Lemon Peel— Can be made into fla¬ 
voring by paring thin and putting into a bottle of 
whisky; the liquor becomes extract of lemon. Keep¬ 
ing Lemons —Lemons may be kept perfectly fresh 
for six months, or longer, if kept immersed in a 
vessel in enough buttermilk to cover them. The 
buttermilk should be changed at least twice a month, 
and the lemons should be wiped perfectly dry with 
a cloth when required for use. Lemon Mincemeat- 
See Mincemeat. Lemon Syrup— Surplus lemons 
are used to make syrup by paring the rind thinly, 
and squeezing the juice, and boiling in sugar syrup; 
straining and bottling for use when fresh lemons 
cannot be obtained. Lemon Marmalade — The 
lemons boiled in 3 waters, taken up when tender, 
sliced, seeds removed; fruit weighed, 2 lbs. sugar 
and 1 pt. water to each pound of fruit; boiled to¬ 
gether y 2 hour. Lemon IloLY-PoLY-Sheet of short 
paste spread with lemon marmalade or lemon butter, 
rolled up, steamed. Lemon Sherbet —See Sherbet. 

LENNOX SLICES—A new cake strongly fla¬ 
vored with chartreuse is popular just now in New 
York at tea and luncheon parties. It is introduced 
under the name of “Lennox slices.” 

LENTILS—Kind of pea used for soup; of a brown 
color, flattened shape. Lentils are said to contain 
twice the nourishment of flesh meat; the small Egyp¬ 
tians are the best. Boiled Lentils —Soaked over 
night and boiled same as beans or peas, seasoned 
with bacon or butter. Puree of Lentils —Boiled 
or stewed lentils rubbed through a seive, seasoned, 
served as a vegetable. Lentil Soup— Lentils boiled 
with stock, water, leeks, parsley, celery, salt pork, 
etc.; passed through seive, same as pea soup; crou¬ 
tons of bread. Potage a la Chantilly —Puree of 
lentils soup with cream. 

LETTUCE—“ Lettuce is not much cooked in this 
country and when cooked it is not much better than 
a cabbage; but when raw, and eaten in salad, it has 
a peculiarly pieasant taste; and has a sedative ac¬ 
tion upon the nervous system, which makes one re¬ 
turn to it eagerly, as one returns to tobacco and to 
opium. The chemists obtain from the lettuce an 
inspissated juice—called sometimes lactucarium, 
sometimes lettuce-opium—which is said to allay 
pain, to slacken the pulse, to reduce animal heat, and 
to conduce to sleep.” Wiped, not Washed— 
“ Lettuces ought never to be wetted; they lose their 
crispness, and are pro tanto destroyed. If you can 
get nothing but wet lettuces, you had certainly bet¬ 
ter dry them; but if you wish for a good salad, cut 
your lettuce fresh from the garden, take off the out¬ 
side leaves, cut or rather break it into a salad bowl, 
and then mix.” A Medical Remark—" Some are 
now strongly insisting that lettuces should be used 
more generally as food, and suggesting that they 








362 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


LEV 

ought to boiled, after which treatment they are said 
to be as palatable as spinach. If this be the fact, it 
is worth knowing, as spinach is necessaaily ex¬ 
cluded from the diet of the oxaluric patient, and it 
is precisely in this class of cases the soothing prop¬ 
erties of the lettuce, if it have any, would be valua¬ 
ble.” Boiled Lettuce —Boiled in very little water 
and turned frequently; when quite tender drained, 
pressed, chopped fine, put in a stewpan with little 
cream, butter, pepper, and salt. Lettuce Soups— 
Consomme a la Cobert, Consomme a la Kursal, Con¬ 
somme a la Chiffonade, Potage aux Herbes Prin- 
tanieres, Potage a la Bonne Femme. Consomme 
aux Laitues —Halves of lettuces tied and stewed, 
served with consomme separately. Lettuce Soup 
a l’ Amphitryon —Stewed lettuce chopped and sea¬ 
soned with cheese, filled into croustades made of 
rolls hollowed out, sprinkled with cheese, crunibs 
and butter, browned, served with consomme separ¬ 
ately, and grated cheese with it. Stuffed Lettuce 
—Parboiled, drained, split open, forcemeat or sau¬ 
sage meat inserted, fat pork outside, simmered an 
hour. Lettuce Salads—( See Salads.) 

LEVRAUT (Fr.)—Hare. Lievre is the same. 

LEVERET—Young hare. (See Hare.) 

LIAISON (Fr.)—Anything that is put into soup 
or sauce to thicken it, especially eggs, stirred in to 
make it creamy like a custard. 

LICORICE or LIQUORICE—An American root 
used extensively for making the extract which is 
sold extensively in the form of stick liquorice, as a 
remedy for coughs. Licorice Cough Lozenges— 
Specialty; made of dissolved stick licorice and gum 
arabic in water to make 2 qts. thick mucilage; 28 
lbs. powdered sugar, 2 oz. ipecacuanha, 1 drachm 
acetate of morphia, 1 oz. oil of aniseed, 1 oz. pow¬ 
dered tartaric acid; enough of the licorice mucilage 
to make paste of it, rolled, stamped out. 

LIEVRE (Fr.)—Hare; same as levraut. 

LIMA BEAN—The butter bean; thrives best in 
the long summers of the southern states; one of the 
most delicate of vegetables in the green state, and 
nearly as good after drying. It is boiled like green 
peas and seasoned and sauced the same ways. Lima 
Beans Sautes in Butter — After boiling tender 
put in a pan with butter, parsley, salt, pepper, sim¬ 
mered a short time, served hot. Lima Beans Soup 
—Puree of lima beans in seasoned broth with butter 
and sippets of fried bread. 

LIMANDE (Fr.)—Dab; a small flat-fish. 

LIMBURGER CHEESE—A very high-flavored 
and odorous cheese, now extensively manufactured 
in this country to medt a very large demand. It is 
a soft whitish cheese of about the consistency of 
new soap, and is in bars wrapped in tinfoil. 

LIME—A small kind of lemon, plentiful in the 
markets, used in many of the same ways as lemons; 
served with oysters, used in making bar drinks. It 
IS pale-colored, thin-skinned, more acid and juicy 


LIV 

than the lemon. Limes for Garnishing— “As a 
piquant addition to a veal cutlet, or fried sole, the 
juice of the lime is to our mind preferable to that of 
the lemon. In most tropical countries where limes 
grow, a regular supply is laid in weekly of some six 
or eight dozen, at a cost of a few cents, and the 
juice is eaten with almost everything that appears 
at table, except ‘Irish stew.’ ” Pickled Limes— 
Limes with slight cuts in the rind are rubbed with 
salt, allowed to remain 5 days to soften. Vinegar 
boiled with 4 oz. each mustard seed and ginger to. 
each quart and 1 oz. whole pepper; limes and salt in 
a jar, boiling vinegar poured upon them. Pre¬ 
served Limes —Limes boiled in 3 waters, sliced,, 
stewed in sugar. (See lemon.) Limes with Rice: 
—Limes preserved in syrup served on rice boiled in 
milk and sweetened, after the manner of peaches- 
with rice, the lime syrup for sauce. 

LING—A fish that resembles cod, plentiful on the 
coast of Scotland. It is sometimes imported as a 
novelty, used in all the ways of cod to cook or dry, 
and oil is obtained from the livers the same as from 
cod livers. 

LION—Lion’s flesh is almost identical with veal 
in color, taste and texture—so the hunters say. 

LIPTAU CHEESE — The famous goat’s-milk 
cheese of Liptau, in Bohemia, similar to the Italian 
Moring cheese. It comes wrapped in tinfoil, packed 
in boxes. 

LIQUEURS—Various flavored spirits, such as 
chartreuse, absinthe, vermouth, etc. 

LIQUEURS—Name of a certain class of candies 
flavored with liqueurs; bonbons. The best have a 
liquid inside while the outside is crystallized. 

LIQUEUR CANDY WITH EGGS — Suitable 
for hotel dessert. It is ribbons of flavored egg-yolk 
cooked by running through a funnel into boiling 
syrup, then draining and rolling in granulated su¬ 
gar. Takes 7 lbs. sugar boiled to “the blow” or 
below candy point, 12 3'olks beaten up with kirsch- 
wasser run in like a rope from a funnel; is yellow 
and crystallized. Needs a name. 

LITRE—The French quart; is about 2 % Amer¬ 
ican pints. 

LIVER—Calf’s liver is much sought after for 
restaurant trade, and the butchers seldom have any 
for casual buyers; it is much better than any other, 
though beef liver is not bad. Pig’s liver is next 
best; sheep’s liver is the worst, being hard. Calf’s 
liver and bacon is a popular breakfast dish. Liver 
and Bacon en Brochette— (/) Cut bacon in thin 
slices, then in squares, scald the liver to set it in 
shape, then cut thin squares to match the bacon, 
string liver and bacon alternately on a skewer and 
broil on all four sides. If silver skewers serve 
without removing them, if iron skewers slip the 
meat off on to a slice of toast. (2)-Prepared as 
above, egged, breaded, fried in hot lard, served with 
sauce. Fried Liver— Slices seasoned, dipped in 






I 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. * 363 


LIZ 

flour and fried in shallow pan with little bacon fat. 
Liver and Onions — Fried liver covered with 
onions which have been fried separately. Broiled 
Liver— Floured, broiled, basted with butter, served 
Avith maitre d'liotel butter. Liver Saute— Small 
pieces of liver and bacon simmered in the bacon 
fat, with little onion, seasoned, water added and 
gravy made in the pan. Roast Liver — Large 
piece larded through and through with finger strips 
of fat bacon, which are rolled before insertion in 
minced garlic, herbs and mixed spice, roasted with 
same seasonings in the pan, and pepper and salt; 
gravy in the pan with lemon juice added. Liver a 
la Mode —Liver larded through and through with 
strips of carrot, turnip and bacon, herbs and sea¬ 
sonings, baked slowly in deep pan with buttered 
paper over; gravy with wine in the pan, served 
with vegetables. Foie de Veau a l’.Italienne 
—Calf’s liver cooked with oil, wine, bacon, mush¬ 
rooms, herbs, lemon juice; sauce made in the pan. 
Pain de Foie de Veau — Liver paste; pounded 
and steamed in a mould with eggs, chopped ham, 
bay leaf, wine seasonings, served hot with brown 
sauce, or cold, or in sandwiches. {See frontage 
d'ltalie.) Chicken Liver Patties — Chicken 
livers, calf’s liver, and calf’s kidney cut very small, 
simmered in butter with seasonings, flour and gravy 
added and little sherry; dished in patty cases. Dev¬ 
illed Liver —Parboiled turkey liver mashed with 
butter, mustard, salt, cayenne, mushroom catsup. 
Stirred over fire till very hot, served on toast. {See 
foie gras.) Liverwurst —Liver sausage made of 
liver and bacon fat with coriander seed, cloves or 
garlic. Liver Soup — See gondingo. Liver 
Klose —Liver, bacon, bread-crumbs, butter, eggs, 
parsley, salt, pepper; made into paste, formed in 
balls, boiled in water. ( See German cookery.) 

LIZARD—" I do confess, though, that on one of 
the last occasions of my dining in Honduras I did 
not feel that all was well, when at the end of the 
meal I found that I had stuffed myself with baked 
lizard. Of course, there is nothing wrong with the 
lizard, except our petty prejudices. It tasted splen¬ 
didly; but when at last I saw the big, scaly leg and 
the claw of the lizard, I don’t think I liked it.” {See 
Guana.) 

LOBSTER—On the French coast a lobster is 
boiled in half milk and half water. The "Cardinal 
of the Sea” is also cooked in a court bouillon, made 
of a handful of salt in the water, a pat of butter, a 
bunch of parsley, a clove of garlic, and a claret-glass 
of Chablis or Marsala, the wine being added after 
the lobster has boiled for a quarter of an hour. 
Broiling Lobsters Alive— "Broiled live lobsters 
are the latest in the fish restaurants, and jolly nice 
they are, too! They split Mr. Lobster down from 
head to tail, and pop him on the grill—flat side down. 
He is served scalding hot, and you eat him with 
lemon and cayenne.” Alleged Culinary Cruelty 
—The sign "broiled live lobsters” has appeared at a 
number of the city restaurants. If the lobsters were 


LOB 

put on the gridiron whole, the practice would call 
for suppression by law. Such is not the practice. 
To broil a lobster in its shell would have no effect 
different from boiling or steaming; the broil is at¬ 
tained by the exposure of the inside flesh to the fire. 
The splitting down the full length of the lobster 
kills it before it reaches the fire. The seat of life is 
a spot in the center of the head where it joins the 
body, and when the cook’s knife passes through it, 
life ceases, though the mechanical contractions of 
the members may continue for awhile. A lobster 
can be killed instantly by thrusting a skewer into the 
part, either from the back of the head or through the 
mouth. The catfish is one of the slowest animals 
to die, and hours after it has been skinned and 
cut up in pieces, if the head be opened carefully, 
the seat of life can be found like a heart, about 
the size of a lima bean, still beating with puls¬ 
ations plain to see; but if this spot be pierced 
even when the fish is first caught and most 
alive, it dies immediately. Lobster a l’Ameri- 
caine— A freshly killed lobster is cut up into 8 or io 
pieces, the claws making 4 more, and the head is set 
apart. Some oil is poured in a shallow saucepan, 
and into it is put mushrooms, onions, shallots, gar¬ 
lic, thyme, bay-leaves, parsley, salt, white pepper, 
cayenne, fried all together, without the lobster, till 
light brown; the oil then drained off, 3 tomatoes and 
a bottle of Chablis added; boiled 5 minutes, and the 
pieces of lobster, shell and all, thrown in; cooked y z 
hour, taken up, and the sauce thickened with the 
substance found in the head, and 4 yolks; carefully 
mixed in without boiling; strained over the lobster. 
Same method as with crabs for gumbo, and the 
southern or creole fish court-bouillon. Homard au 
Court- BouiLLON-Lobster boiled in ordinary court- 
bouillon (which is seasoned broth with little wine), 
and served with lobster sauce. Lobster au Kari- 
Curried lobster, served with rice. Cotelettes de 
Homard —Lobster cutlets. {See Cutlets). Miroton 
de Homard a la Cardinal —Slices of lobster, half 
dipped in white sauce, half in cardinal sauce; served 
cold on a salad with maj r onnaise. Coquille de 
Homard —Lobster in the shell; scalloped lobster 
made by cutting the meat of cooked lobster small, 
putting it in a yellow sauce containing onions, wine, 
yolks, etc., filling plated scallop shells or the back 
shell of the lobsters with it; crumbs and butter on 
top; baked. Croquettes de Homard —Same as 
cutlets except the shape. Rissoles de Homard — 
Croquette-preparation rolled in paste and fried. 
Petits Vol-au-Vents de Homard —Lobster pat¬ 
ties. Bouchees de Homard a la Bechamel— 
Smaller patties filled with chopped lobster in cream 
sauce. Mayonnaise de Homard —Lobster-meat 
with lettuce and mayonnaise; decorated. Lobster 
a la Nantaise-CoM; the lobster boiled in ordinary 
court-bouillon ; the creamy part from the head with 
the coral, and some yolks and mustard stirred with 
oil, to make mayonnaise; the lobster-meat sliced in 
a bowl, and sauce poured over. Stuffed Lobster, 





364 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


LOB 

Narragansett Style —Like devilled crabs; lob¬ 
ster-croquette preparation filled in the pieces of lob¬ 
ster shell; crumbed, buttered, baked. Turban of 
Lobster a la Mazarin —Sliced lobster with force¬ 
meat and sauce in a border mould; steamed till set 
firm, turned out, and center filled with oysters, 
mushrooms, fish quenelles, and sauce; served hot. 
Ballotines of Lobster —Lobster meat cut small 
in creamy sauce; used to stuff tomatoes, which are 
then placed with the aperture downwards in little 
patty pans and steamed; served hot or cold, with 
fish-quenelles and sauce, or in aspic. Lobster 
Cheese— Like head cheese. Lobster chopped or 
sliced, mayonnaise jelly made and stirred into it; 
seasonings; set in a mould. ( See Mayonnaise.) 
Lobster a l’Irlandaise —Meat of a boiled lobster 
in a stewpan with mustard, vinegar, cayenne, and 
flour-and-butter for thickening; covered, simmered 
5 minutes, glass of sherry added; served hot with 
lemon. Lobster Pudding —English; lobster-cro¬ 
quette mixture containing eggs, boiled in a mould 
for an hour; served with lobster sauce. Lobster 
en Brochette— Pieces of lobster alternately with 
slices of bacon strung on a skewer; buttered; broiled. 
Lobster Cream in Aspic —Lobster meat in white 
sauce set with gelatine. Mazarins of Lobster — 
The preceding and similar jellied forms set in small 
moulds, called mazarin moulds. Lobster Soup — 
(/) One quart stock to i can lobster, i cup milk, 2 
yolks, parsley, pepper, salt, flour-and-butter worked 
together enough to thicken it. (2) Fish broth, 2 qts.; 
1 can lobster, milk thickened with starch added, and 
butter and seasonings. Lobster Soup a l’Indi- 
enne —Fried vegetables and aromatics, broth, wine, 
and lobsters boiled together; curry powder, pounded 
lobster shells, butter and flour boiled in the liquor; 
lobster meat in the tureen, and the curry soup 
strained over it; rice separate. Bisque of Lobster- 
Made of rice and lobster. Butter, onions, ham, salt 
pork, and parsley fried together; cut-up lobsters in 
shell thrown in; wine, broth, seasonings; boiled an 
hour. Lobster meat and shells pounded in a mortar, 
passed through seive; rice the same; broth passed 
through seive, lobster liquor added, and sherry; not 
boiled; served with fried sippets of bread. Lobster 
Sauce —(/) White butter-sauce with lobster coral to 
color it, and lobster cut in small dice. (2) Butter 
sauce, salt, white pepper, nutmeg, ca}'enne, lemon 
juice, anchovy essence, lobster butter, strained; lob¬ 
ster meat cut small added; it ought to be pink in 
color. Lobster Butter —Coral and eggs of cooked 
lobsters pounded in a mortar, mixed with equal 
quantity of butter; rubbed through a seive. Lob¬ 
ster Salad —See Salads. 

LONGE DE PORC (Fr.)—Loin of Pork. 

LORDKOLL CAKE OR ALMOND PUDDING 
—Paris specialty. “ Call it any name you like. It 
is called Lordkoll Cake here. This is how it is pre¬ 
pared: Prepare 1 lb. sweet almond powder, to 
which add oz. bitter almonds, all very dry. Add 
1 lb. powdered sugar. Take 16 eggs, of which 


LUC 

separate the yolks from the whites. Add yolks to 
mixture, working them in carefully. Beat up whites 
with vanilla and add. Take Charlotte moulds, 
which butter and flour. Fill your mould with the 
mixture, and bake in a slow oven. Cakes to be served 
hot and usually eovered with an English or vanilla 
sauce.” 

LOVE IN DISGUISE—Is a calf’s heart stuffed, 
then surrounded with forcemeat, next rolled in 
powdered vermicelli, lastly deposited in a baking 
dish with little butter and cooked in the oven. Serve 
it in the dish with its own gravy. 

LOSS OF WEIGHT—Chickens lose one third 
their weight in boiling and one third more in pick¬ 
ing from the bones and mincing. 4% lbs. raw chick - 
en yields only 1 y 2 lb. clear meat for salad. “The 
result of a set of experiments which were actually 
made in a public establishment. They were not un¬ 
dertaken from mere curiosity, but to serve a pur¬ 
pose of practical utility: 2S pieces of beef weighing 
2S0 lbs. lost in boiling 73 lbs. 14 oz. Hence the loss 
of beef in boiling was 26)4 lbs. in 100 lbs.; 19 pieces 
of beef weighing 190 lbs. lost in roasting 61 lbs. 20Z., 
or 32 lbs. in 100 lbs.; 9 pieces of beef weighing 90 
lbs. lost in baking 27 lbs., or 30 lbs. in 100 lbs.; 27 
legs of mutton weighing 260 lbs. lost in boiling and 
by having the shank-bone taken off 62 lbs. 4 oz. (the 
shanks weighed 4 oz. each.) The loss in boiling 
was 55 lbs. 8 oz.; the legs of mutton lost 21^3 lbs. 
in 100 lbs.; 35 shoulders of mutton weighing 350 
lbs. lost in roasting 109 lbs. 10 oz.; loss of weight 
in roasting shoulders of mutton is about 31% lbs. in 
100 lbs.; 16 loins of mutton weighing 141 lbs. lost in 
roasting 49 lbs. 14 oz.; loins of mutton lose by roast¬ 
ing about 35)4 lbs. 100 lbs.; 10 necks of mutton 
weighing 100 lbs. lost in roasting 32 lbs. 6oz. From 
the foregoing statement two practical inferences 
may be drawn: (/)-In respect of economy that 
it is more profitable to boil meat than to roast it. 
(2)-Whether we roast or boil meat it loses by being 
cooked from one-fifth to one-third of its whole 
weight.” 

LOTUS SEEDS—Lotus seeds form one of the 
most common dishes known to the Barri of Central 
Africa. The pods when gathered are bored and 
strung on reeds and hung in the sun for drying, 
after which they get to the table. 

LOTTES (Fr.)—Eel-pouts. 

LOZENGES—Candies made without boiling, of 
powdered sugar, sometimes starch and adultera¬ 
tions and gum mucilage, cutout and dried. Lemon 
vVcid Lozenges —Made of S oz. icing sugar, y oz. 
powdered tartaric acid, 10 drops oil of lemon; mixed 
with mucilage of gum arabic into a paste, rolled out 
and cut into lozenges. (See Licorice.) 

LUCULLUS—Often named in relation to gas¬ 
tronomy. A Roman general. Lucullus’ suppers 
cost in our money ten thousand dollars each. He 
was perhaps the most refined entertainer among the 
famous few whose names are immortal because of 







365 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


LYO 

their extravagance. Boudins de Volaille a la 
Lucullus —Quenelles of chicken forcemeat with 
puree of truffles in the center of each. They are 
formed with two spoons, poached, glazed and 
colored in the oven, served in a shape of fried bread 
with aliemande sauce. F illets de Becasses a la 
Lucullus —Breasts of woodcocks coated with force¬ 
meat and served on a border of toast with a thick 
puree of woodcocks in the center and game sauce 
around. Any dainty and expensive or tedious or¬ 
namented dish of birds or small game is designated 
a la Lucullus by any ambitious ch< f, particularly 
dishes of ortolans or larks with truffles, whether 
hot or cold. 

LYONNAISE GARNISH—For braised meats; 
consists of stuffed onions, cooked chestnuts, and 
:sliced sausages in the braise liquor and espagnole. 

LY ONNAISE SAUCE—Brown onion sauce with 
a small proportion of tomato sauce mixed in. 

LIY OURNAISE SAUCE—Cold, for boiled fish. 
It is mayonnaise with pounded anchovies and pars¬ 
ley worked in. 

M. 

MACARONI—There is American macaroni that 
usually comes loose in the large boxes, and some 
of it is as good as the imported; it should be tried, 
however, a small quantity first, for poor macaroni 
dissolves in the water it is boiled in, and is of no 
more use than so much flour paste. The difficulty 
in making seems to be the choice of flour; macaroni 
needs a particular kind. It is cheap food, compara¬ 
tively, as it is dry and in condensed form and with¬ 
out waste. Macaroni au Beurre —Macaroni with 
butter; the most ordinary way of serving it in Italy. 
It is not broken much, but thrown at once in boiling- 
halted water and cooked from 15 to 20 minutes, 
drain, put a piece of butter in the centre and sprinkle 
•cheese over the top; place on the top shelf of a hot 
oven till thoroughly heated and brown on top. 
Macaroni and CiiEESE-Boiled macaroni with but¬ 
ter, salt and grated cheese mixed together hot, and 
served plain. Macaroni a la Cardinal —Maca¬ 
roni and lobster, made by putting a layer of boiled 
macaroni in a dish, a layer of lobster butter, then a 
layer of white sauce, then grated cheese, and repeat¬ 
ing till the dish is full, with pieces of lobster and 
truffles on top; made hot without browning. Maca¬ 
roni a la Dominicaine— Boiled macaroni with 
puree of mushrooms and anchovies. Macaroni 
and Kidneys —Sliced kidneys fried, tomato sauce 
added, layer of macaroni, layer of kidneys and sauce, 
macaroni on top; chopped hard-boiled eggs and 
grated cheese to finish; baked enough to melt the 
cheese on top. English Mustard and Macaroni- 
“The dressing and the eating of macaroni are very 
imperfectly understood in England. It is usually 
served at the end of the dinner; it should be one of 
the earliest dishes partaken of; few cooks know how 
to boil it, and send it to table either of the consist¬ 
ency of pap, or underdone and leathery. Finally, 


MAC 

at some English tables this delicious, wholesome 
article of food has inflicted upon it the dire outrage 
of being ate with mustard. Mustard with macaroni? 
As well might one eat strawberry-cream with chili 
vinegar.” Buttered Macaroni —Put a piece of 
fresh butter the size of an egg into a well-warmed 
deep dish; lay on it about half a pound of boiled 
macaroni, well drained; turn it over, as a salad is 
‘worked,’ with two forks adding during the process 
plenty of fresh-grated Parmesan cheese. Baked 
Macaroni —A pound af macaroni boiled in salted 
water; drained; pepper, salt, 1 pt. cream sauce, 6 oz. 
butter, 6 oz. cheese; mixed; in baking dish with 
cream sauce spread on top, cheese, crumbs, bits but¬ 
ter; baked brown. Fondue a la Napolitaine — 1 
Short macaroni boiled; fondue of cheese, eggs, and 
butter stirred together till hot, not boiled; poured 
over the macaroni in a dish. Macaroni au 
Gratin —Same as baked macaroni. Macaroni a 
la Creme —Boiled macaroni in cream-sauce con¬ 
taining grated cheese. Mucaroni a l’Italienne- 
With brown gravy, butter and cheese. Macaroni 
with Tomatoes— Macaroni mixed with cheese and 
butter, tomato sauce poured over; simmered in the 
oven covered with buttered paper; served with fried 
croutons. Macaroni with Oysters —Oysters cut 
in pieces after scalding, cream sauce made with the 
thickened oyster-liquor added, and the oysters in 
layers with boiled macaroni; bread-crumbs and but¬ 
ter on top. Macaroni and Fish —Same as with 
oysters, using flakes of boiled cod, salmon or snapper. 
Macaroni a la Genoise —Macaroni served with 
tomato sauce without baking; grated Parmesan 
cheese sprinkled on top. Croquettes of Maca¬ 
roni au From age —Bunches of sticks of macaroni 
parboiled, taken hot and laid straight with plentiful 
grated cheese among the sticks, rolled up in buttered 
cloth and cooked in fish kettle; when cold, the bunch 
of sticks of macaroni adhering together is cut off in 
lengths of croquettes, breaded and fried; tomato 
sauce. Timbales of Macaroni —Like a macaroni 
pie. (/) Macaroni in long sticks cooked in a fish- 
kettle; when cool, coiled like straw in a buttered 
mould or deep pan to make a close lining; filled in¬ 
side with chicken forcemeat, steamed, turned out; 
served with sauce. ( 2 ) Mould lined with short 
lengths of macaroni built up with ends outwards 
like honey comb; filled with macaroni, cheese, egg 
and butter mixture; steamed; turned out whole; 
sauce, (y) Mould lined with pie-paste previously 
decorated with shapes of yellow nouilles paste stuck 
on with butter, filled with macaroni-and-cheese 
mixture; baked, and turned out whole. Timbale 
de Macaroni a la Florentine —Sweetened 
macaroni or macaroni-pudding baked in a crust of 
paste to turn out whole; sweet sauce with raisins. 
Macaroni Soups —Numerous. (See Soups.) 

MACAROONS—Small drop-cakes made princi¬ 
pally of sugar and almonds; but there are various 
kinds. (/) One pound flour, y lb. butter, 1 lb. 
pounded sugar, 3 eggs, 20 drops of any essence, % 










36G 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


MAC 

teaspoonful ammonia; mix well in the order named; 
drop pieces, the size of a walnut, on to buttered 
sheets, and bake a pale color in a cool oven. The 
ammonia is best dissolved in 2 teaspoonfuls of milk, 
and almond is the most appropriate flavoring-. 
(2) One-half pound crushed and sifted almonds, ^ 
lb. sugar, 2 oz. rice-flour or starch, 5 whites; stirred 
up into a paste, dropped on paper, baked in cool 
oven. {SeeAlmonds, Cocoanut .) MacaroonTarts- 
Patty pans lined with thin sweet tart-paste, little 
jam in them, above almond-macaroon mixture on 
top; baked in slack oven. Macaroon Custards— 
Macaroons dipped in brandy, placed in buttered 
cups, strong custard to fill up, steamed or slack- 
baked, and turned out whole to serve; pink sauce 
with wine. Macaroon Ice Cream —Almond mac¬ 
aroons crumbled in ice cream make a fine bisque of 
almonds. Macaroon Cake —Sheet of genoise cake 
baked; almond-macaroon mixture laid across with a 
tube; slack baked, jelly or jam dropped in the lat¬ 
tice-work spaces; to serve whole or cut in squares. 

MACE—The inner coat of the nutmeg, between 
the nutmeg and the outside shell, is called mace. It 
is a good flavoring for meats and cream soups, as 
well as puddings and sweets, if used sparingly. For 
the meat kitchen it is generally needed in blades or 
the unground state; the ground spice goes into 
mincemeat, puddings, and cakes. 

MACEDOINE—A mixture of several kinds of 
vegetables or fruits. Macedoine Vegetables— 
Are put up in cans like any other vegetables; can be. 
obtained at the fancy grocery stores. The vegetables 
are cut with jardiniere machines all to one size and 
quite small. There are carrots, turnips, peas, string 
beans and other kinds in the mixture, the object be¬ 
ing to secure a variety of colors. This mixture in 
hot gravy makes the macedoine garnish to go with 
cutlets or other meats; or, with oil, vinegar and sea¬ 
sonings, makes the macedoine salad. Macedoine 
of Fruit— Several kinds of fruit in a compote, or 
charlotte, or meringue. Macedoine de Fruits en 
Gelee —A mould of alternate layers of different 
fruits filled up with jelly. 

MACKEREL—Choice fish plentiful on both sides 
the Atlantic. Says Grimod de la Reyniere: The 
mackerel has this in common with good women—he 
is loved by all the world, he is welcomed by rich 
and poor with the same eagerness. He is most com¬ 
monly eaten a la maitre d'hote!, but he maybe pre¬ 
pared in a hundred ways, and he is as exquisite 
plain as in the most elaborate dressing. The Per¬ 
fect Way —“ There is but one perfect way of cook¬ 
ing mackerel—split him in the back, broil him, and 
serve him with maitre d'hotel butter. Still better, 
take his fillets and serve in the same way.” Mack¬ 
erel in Season —Mackerel which are taken in May 
and June are superior in flavor to those caught either 
earlier in the spring, or in the autumn. They are 
best a la maitre d'hotel. To enjoy the flavor of 
these fish, they should not be washed, but wiped 


MAD 

clean and dry with a cloth. Broiled Mackerel— 
The fish laid open by splitting down the back, the 
back bone taken out. Juice of lemon squeezed over 
each fish, after drying it, also salt and pepper, broiled 
over clear coals, skin side down at first, butter over. 
Stewed Mackerel —Clean and cut a fresh mack¬ 
erel into four pieces, and take out the bone. Have 
ready a pint of melted butter, seasoned with a little 
salt, mace, end cayenne. Throw in the thin rind of 
*4 lemon, and the juice also. Stew the fish in 
the sauce twenty minutes, and just before serving 
add a dessertspoonful of anchovy sauce and a little 
mustard. Mackerel a la Flamande —Clean the 
fish and stuff with butter mixed with chopped shal¬ 
lots, chives, lemon-juice, salt and pepper; wrap in 
sheets of buttered paper, tie up the ends witli string, 
and broil over a slow fire for twenty-five minutes; 
remove the covers and serve. Baked Mackerel 
with Vinegar —Cut off the heads and tails, open 
and clean the fish, and lay them in a deep pan with 
a few bay leaves, whole pepper, half a teaspoonful 
of cloves, and a whole teaspoonful of allspice, pour 
over them equal quantities of vinegar and water, 
bake for an hour and a half in a slow oven, and serve 
when cold. Herrings are also nice prepared in this 
way. Rolled Mackerel —The fish laid open, back 
bone removed, and head. Rolled up, tail outwards, 
cooked as baked mackerel with vinegar, with plate 
or top to hold them in shape. Served cold. Ma- 
quereaux a l’Eau de Sel —Mackerel plain boiled 
in salted water. Maquereaux Grilles au Beurre 
Noir —Mackerel broiled, served with black butter 
sauce. Maquereaux aux Groseilles Vertes— 
Mackerel stuffed with green gooseberries, pieces of 
herring, etc., boiled and served with green goose¬ 
berry sauce. Filets de Maquereaux a la Veni- 
tienne —Boneless sides of mackerel served in brown 
sauce with tarragon, chervil, truffles, and port wine. 
Boiled Mackerel —Cut in halves boiled in water 
containing onion, parsley, white wine, salt, pepper 
for 15 minutes, served with ravigote sauce, or with 
caper sauce, parsley sauce or other, which gives 
the name. Mackerel Balls— Of salt mackerel 
made same as codfish balls. Salt Mackerel— 
There are 3 or more grades, the largest are the best; 
can be freshened most completely by soaking in 
milk. Are cut up and boiled a very few mimltes, 
served with plain butter or with mustard sauce. 
Broiled they are buttered and garnished with lemon 
and parsley. 

MADEIRA BUNS—1 lb. flour, 10 oz. butter, 7 
oz. sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, % oz. ground 
ginger, 3 eggs, tablespoonful of sherry. Cream 
and mix as for cakes, put one tablespoonful in small 
moulds or patty pans, and bake in a moderate oven; 
strip of citron on top of each. 

MADEIRA CAKE—Plain pound cake by another 
name, made of 12 oz. sugar, 10 oz. butter, 10 eggs, 1 
lb. flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder, ground mace or 
other flavor, baked in shallow cake moulds. 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 867 


MAD 

MADEIRA SAUCE—Wine sauce of two kinds, 
either savory or sweet, both having- Madeira wine 
in them. (/)-Broth thickened with butter and flour, 
a pickled lemon cut up in it, little more butter beaten 
in, glass of wine, nutmeg; for fish, or boiled meat 
or fowl. (2) -Pudding sauce with Madeira. Ma¬ 
deira Pudding —A jam pudding steamed, made in 
a deep round pan; a sheet of short paste is laid in 
the bottom, a layer of jam on that, then another 
sheet of paste, then jam of a different color, and so 
on to fill the pan like a jelly cake of paste and jam. 
Steamed 2 or 3 hours. Cream for sauce. 

MADELEINES—(/) Small cakes of the genoise 
cake sort, baked in patty pans or madeleine moulds; 
like madeira buns, but richer, made of J4 lb. each of 
butter, sugar, flour and eggs and wineglassful of 
brandy. (2)-The same with currants, mixed peel, 
and sultanas added. 

MADONNA PUDDING—Steamed pudding of 
12 oz. bread-crumbs, 8 oz. sugar, 8 oz. finely chopped 
suet, grated rind of i lemon, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoons 
brandy. To be beaten industriously together with 
a wooden spoon; steamed 3 or 4 hours. 

MAGENTAS—Small sort of sponge cakes baked 
in narrow tins; made of 1 lb. sugar, 12 eggs, ^ lb. 
flour, almond and orange flavoring, 6 oz. butter; 
whipped up separately as for sponge cake, butter 
softened and beaten in, whites last of all, chopped 
almonds on top. 

MAIDS OF HONOR—A puff-paste tartlet with 
a cheese-cake filling is popular in England under 
that name, and two or three special makers of it 
have realized a competency. At one place this 
dainty has been produced for 200 years, the secret of 
the mixture bequeathed from father to son. “Mr. 
J. T. B., confectioner, of Richmond, sends us a box 
of the delicious little cakes associated for nearly two 
centuries with the famed Thames-side resort. They 
are admirable eating, but at this time of year are all 
the better for being warmed. As to the origin of 
their curious name, Mr. B. informs us two explan¬ 
ations are current: one, that the maids of honor who, 
in the old court days of Richmond, used to frequent 
the shop where the cakes were originally made, 
suggested the name: the other, that the recipe ema¬ 
nated from a maid of honor.” 

MAITRE D’HOTEL (Fr.)—Steward or head- 
waiter; the head man of a restaurant next to the 
proprietor. 

MAITRE D’HOTEL SAUCE OR BUTTER— 
(/)-The almost universal sauce with broiled fish and 
other broiled meat*. It is nothing but butter soft¬ 
ened and stirred up with chopped parsley and lemon 
juice in no particular measure; looks pale green; 
used cold or at ordinary room temperature to spread 
on hot fish. (2)—Hot Maitre d’Hotel Sauce— 
The cold sauce thrown into a saucepan with little 
water is slightly thickened with flour, to form a 
semi-transparent parsley sauce for new potatoes 
a la maitre d'hotel and for boiled fish. 


MAL 

MAITRE D’lIOTEL (a la )—Boiled fish sprin¬ 
kled with chopped parsley, or capers or other green 
and the above, hot sauce poured over it; and broiled 
fish or meat with cold maitre d'hotel butter are so 
denominated. Plain boiled potatoes quartered be¬ 
long to the style with boiled fish, and lemons with 
broiled. 

MALDIVE FISH— Mummalon fish or “Bombay 
duck,” an East Indian fish; canned, sold at the 
fancy grocery stores. 

MALLARD DUCK—The largest American wild 
duck, the original stock of the tame duck of the 
same name and markings. This duck is extremely 
plentiful in the lake region in the fall season; car¬ 
loads are brought to Chicago where the surplus is 
kept in a frozen state for sale in the spring when 
other game is out of season. The mallard is among 
water fowl what the prairie hen is among the vari¬ 
eties of the grouse family, the fleshiest, heaviest, 
tenderest, and in a general way the most valuable. 
Stewards sending for game by the barrel do well to 
order mallards. Mallard Duck a l’Americaine- 
Ducks roasted rare in about 25 or 30 minutes, carved, 
pieces between two dishes kept hot; bones boiled 
with aromatics, brown gravy added to the liquor, 
currant jelly and port wine. {See Ducks.) 

MALT—The baker who makes his own yeast uses 
malt perhaps twice a month to make his stock yeast, 
the process for which is much the same as brewing 
beer, though the product is very much condensed. 
Malt can generally be purchased at the nearest 
brewery. What Malt Is —Malt is barley that has 
been sprouted and started to growing by being 
sprinkled with water in a warm place; in this condi¬ 
tion it turns partly to sugar, the starch in the seed 
changing to sweetness. At the right stage, before 
the sprout turns green, the barley is dried on a hot 
metal floor with a constant stirring. It is then malt. 
Other grains are treated in the same way for pur¬ 
poses of distillation; thus there is malted wheat and 
malted rye. Malt Bread— Specialty or novelty. 
Bread made with a proportion of the flour from 
malted wheat. Malt Brown Bread —English pat¬ 
ent. “The digestive quality of malted barley are 
fully recognized, and the idea of blending it with 
granular wheat-flour in the bakery has proved a 
happy one, for the resulting bread, while appetizing 
and well flavored, is soft and moist even after sev¬ 
eral days’ keeping.” Malt Wine— “There is a 
great craze at present for malt wine. Some years 
ago it was very fashionable when the malt coffees 
and malt breads first began to tickle the palates of 
the epicures. It is beginning to look up again, as 
some of the great lights of the medical profession 
have been recommending it to august patients.” 
Made of 14 lbs. loaf sugar, 9 qts. boiling water 
poured upon it, and6gls. sweet wort from the brew¬ 
ers; remains in a mash-tub to ferment for 2 days; 
then put into a keg with another pound sugar and 
\ l /2 lbs. raisins; to be filled up daily as it ferments 







368 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


MAN 

and runs over, i oz. gelatine dissolved and whipped 
to froth added; bunged tight; bottled 6 months after. 
Instead of brewers’ sweet wort, 8 gls. water, hot, 
on a bushel of malt and % lb. hops, boiled and 
strained. 

• 

MANDARIN ORANGE—A small variety of or¬ 
ange; very sweet; flattened somewhat in shape. 
Gives the name “mandarine” to jellies, and orna¬ 
mental pieces formed of candied oranges. 

MANGO—Fruit of the West Indies, Florida, and 
Mexico. “One of the most delicious products of the 
tropics is the mango, the eating of which, however, 
is apt at first to embarrass and perplex a stranger to 
no small degree. In shape the mango resembles a 
pear with the stem at the wrong end, flattened, how¬ 
ever, like a bean, and with the small end turned over 
to one side, something like the figures common on 
cashmere shawls. One large variety is entirely yel¬ 
low, and a smaller kind is yellow with rich red 
cheeks, offering tempting hues for a still-life painter. 
Inside is a very large seed, which forms a consider¬ 
able impediment to the enjoyment of the inexperi¬ 
enced, for the pulp is joined to this in a stringy way, 
and it is difficult to handle the slippery thing. A 
thoroughly ripe mango has a kind of combination of 
muskmelon and baked custard aspect and texture to 
its deep yellow pulp, and its rich flavor is indescrib¬ 
able, except that, when eaten for the first time, it 
seems to have a slight trace of turpentine, which re¬ 
semblance, however, disappears on acquaintance. 
The large yellow variety seemed to me to have a very 
slight and delicate flavor of peanut candy. The per¬ 
son who eats mango for the first time generally cov¬ 
ers himself with confusion and his face with mango 
pulp and juice, which is very sticky and yellow, so 
that he looks as if somebody had been feeding him 
with soft-boiled eggs in the dark. It will not do to 
eat a mango as one would an ordinary fruit, the cor¬ 
rect way being to use a mango-fork, which has but 
one tine, and therefore is really not a fork at all, but 
a spit. With this the fruit is impaled at one end 
and the point thrust firmly in the seed, which may 
thus be stripped of its last pulp without soiling the 
fingers.” 

MANGO PICKEES—Not the mango of the 
tropics, but stuffed young melons or cucumbers. 
“The cucumbers or young muskmelons have a piece 
cut out to admit a spoon and the inside scooped out; 
they are filled with a variety of other small kinds of 
pickling vegetables,- with horse-radish, mustard 
seed, etc., the cut piece replaced, tied or sewed, then 
put through the usual pickling process of pouring 
boiling vinegar on them 4 successive days. 

MANGOSTEEN—“Travelers in Java have filled 
pages and columns with rhapsodies over the mango- 
steen, and all unite in extolling it as the supreme 
delight of the tropics. The mangosteen appears to 
one as a hard round fruit the size of a peach. Its 
hard outer shell or rind is of the same color and 
thickness as a green walnut, but in this brown husk 


MAR 

lie six or eight segments of creamy white pulp. 
The little segments are easily separated, and trans¬ 
ferred to the mouth melt away, the pulp being as 
soft and fine as custard. The mangosteen’s delicate 
pulp tastes, as all its eulogists say, like strawberries, 
peaches, bananas, and oranges all at once; a slight 
tartness is veiled in these delicious flavors, and it is 
never cloyingly sweet. Taken just as it comes from 
the ice box the mangosteen is an epicure’s dream 
realized, and the more’s the pity that it only grows 
in far-away places and deadly climates, and does 
not bear transportation.”—“It is an old story,” says 
an author, “that the traditional resident of Calcutta 
thought it worth a man’s wh le to make the voyage 
from England to Calcutta by the Cape of Good 
Hope and back only to eat one mango at the proper 
season. But the majority will probably concur with 
me that the fruit of the East—the mangoes, leeches, 
guavas, custard-apples, tipparees, and pomegran¬ 
ates—can bear no comparison with the fruit of the 
West. 

MANISTEE FISH—“One of the leading restau¬ 
rants at Chicago had a novelty on its bill of fare 
last week, it being the first time that Manistee beef 
was ever placed before the Chicago public. Though 
called beef, it is in fact the flesh of a fish extremely 
rare in these parts. The Manistee is a fish the size 
of a sturgeon, found only in the Manistee river, in 
Florida. It is sightless, but acute of hearing. It is 
speared by the negroes, by whom it is highly prized 
as food, and occasionally is to be found in the mar¬ 
kets of New Orleans and Mobile, but is seldom 
fouv.d in this locality. The flesh is coarse and much 
resembles beef, though retaining the fishy flavor. 
Scientists have never been able to discover the ori¬ 
gin of the fish, but inclined to the belief that it rises 
from some subterranean stream or lake and has in¬ 
creased and multiplied in the Manistee river, but, 
o.ving to its lack of sight, it has not been able to 
make its way into other bodies of water.” 

MANSFIELD PUDDING—Rich bread pudding 
baked; made of 4 oz. crumbs of French rolls wet 
with a cup of boiling milk, 2 eggs, 3 oz. suet mixed 
with 1 tablespoon flour, 4 spoons currants, 2 spoons 
sugar, 1 spoon cream, 1 spoon brandy, nutmeg; all 
beaten together for 5 minutes. 

MAQUEREAU (Fr.)—Mackerel. 

MARASCHINO—A cordial made from the seed 
of a particular sort of Italian cherry, with syrup 
and spirits of wine. It is one of the most admired 
flavorings for jellies, creams, charlotte russe, ices, 
and sweet sauces. It is, however, difficult to get 
the genuine, and the flavor of the imitations, though 
pleasant, is not so remarkable. It comes in quart 
flasks in wicker coverings, price about $2 per flask. 
British Maraschino —Is made from 2 lbs. of 
lump sugar made into clear syrup with 1 pt. of 
water, a half-ounce bottle of almond essence, 1 
bottle of cherry syrup prepared without acid; one 
tablespoonful of elder flower water, color up to the 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


3G9 


MAR 

proper maraschino color if too faint, bottle and seal 
with red wax. This is easily and quickly made, and 
is sold under the name of British maraschino. 
Souffle Glace au Marasquin— An iced souffle 
with maraschino. Gelee au Marasquin —Mara¬ 
schino jelly. 

MARBLE CAKE—Cake having marble streaks 
of another color of cake all through it, as white 
cake with veins of chocolate interspersed, or pound 
cake with pink wine cake. 

MARBLE CREAM—Any of the gelatine creams 
broken apart and moulded solid again by pouring 
in warm melted cream of another color to make 
veins and screaks. 

MARBLE GENOISE—A sheet of genoise cake 
spread with white water icing and streaked with 
colored icing while still wet. 

MARCASSIN —“Marcassin is, in French sports¬ 
man’s phraseology, a young wild boar. Its saddle 
is served roasted and carefully larded. Wild boar is 
just at present being greatly eaten in Paris, and is 
seen at all the better-class magasins de comestibles. 
At most it is sold ready-larded, at prices varying 
from i franc 60 centimes to 2 francs 40 centimes the 
pound.” 

MARINADE — A bath of oil and vinegar or 
lemon juice, together with some aromatics, such as 
bay-leaves, thyme, onion, or according to the kind 
of meat to be marinaded or pickled, and salt and 
pepper. The use of it is to steep meat or fish an hour 
or more before cooking to give them flavor and suc- 
culency. A dish of pieces of cooked brains, chick¬ 
ens or other cold meat steeped in this and afterwards 
in batter and fried, is called a marinade of that par¬ 
ticular kind of meat. 

MARLBOROUGH CAKES-Dry kind of sponge 
cake with caraway seeds; baked in long tins; some¬ 
times sliced and dried in the oven for wine rusks. 
Made of 1 lb. sugar, 8 eggs beaten y x hour, 1 lb. 
flour, 2 oz. caraway seeds. Also makes good lady- 
fingers. 

MARMALADE—Word generally used in this 
country instead of jam. All kinds of fruit are boiled 
with sugar to the condition of jam or marmalade. 

MARRONS (Fr.) —Chestnuts. 

MARRONS GLACES—Candied chestnuts. (See 
Crystallized Fruits.') “One set of workers skin the 
chestnut, carefully separating it from the inner husk. 
They then pass through a number of other hands in 
the preserving process, and when complete they are 
tm-ned over to yet another set of women to be put in 
neat boxes, or tied up in dainty glazed paper-bags.” 

MARROW — Only obtained in quantity large 
enough to cook from the leg-bones of beef, espec¬ 
ially the bone in the round. Marrow r I oast —Mar¬ 
row cut thin, seasoned, laid close together upon toast, 
baked on top-shelf of oven; served hot. Marrow 
aux Fines Herbes— Marrow scalded a few min¬ 
utes in hot water, taken up and cooled, broken up 


MAS 

and mixed with chopped mushrooms, parsley, onion; 
bread-crumbs in the bottom of buttered paper cases, 
marrow mixture to fill up, crumbs on top; baked 15 
minutes; served on a napkin. Marrow Patties— 
Chopped marrow seasoned, cream, beaten egg; patty 
pans lined with puff paste; marrow filling; baked. 
Marrow Quenelles —Half pound each marrow 
and bread-crumbs, 1 small tablespoon flour, 5 yolks, 
1 egg, salt, pepper; work up to smooth paste, shape 
with two teaspoons, poach in boiling salt water. 
For garnishing, for soups, or served with sauce in 
a vegetable border. Marrow Dumplings —Mar¬ 
row from two beef bones chopped and melted, 2 eggs, 
salt, pepper, little nutmeg, crushed soda-crackers 
enough to make paste of it; boiled in small balls; to 
serve with meat or soup. Marrow Sauce for 
Steaks —Brown sauce made with chopped shallots, 
butter, white wine, espagnole, salt, pepper, parsley; 
beef-marrow in slices dipped in boiling water in a 
strainer for a minute, spread on the steaks; the sauce 
poured over and around. Moelle de Bceuf a la 
Orly —Beef marrow cut in long strips, dipped in 
batter and fried; tomato sauce. Bouchees a la Mo¬ 
elle —Small patties (vol-au-vents) filled with mar¬ 
row chopped and simmered in a savory sauce of 
cream, shallot, chives, etc. Petites Croustades 
a la Moelle —The same as for bouchees ; filled into 
little cases of fried bread; crumbs on top; browned. 
Marrow Pudding—A sweet pudding steamed; 
made same as plain plum pudding, using melted 
marrow instead of suet or butter. 

MARROW FRANGIPANE—Not made of mar¬ 
row; only a name of almond pastry custard baked in 
center of a rice-paste-lined mould, sugared over the 
ontside when done. A timbale of almond frangi- 
pane. 

MARSHMALLOW—An edible plant; the roots 
are sliced, boiled and candied. 

MARSHMALLOW CANDY—A name and im¬ 
itation; made like gum drops, of 2 lbs. each gum 
arabic, fine sugar, water and glucose; the gum pul¬ 
verized and dissolved in the water, glucose and 
sugar added, and boiled on a very slow fire; 3 whites 
to every pound beaten light and mixed in, and the 
whole beaten for hour; forced through a tube into 
starch moulds, cut from the nozzle of the forcer with 
a knife. 

MARZIPANS—Massepains. 

MASSEPAINS—Almond paste cakes made of 12 
oz. sweet almonds, lbs. powdered sugar, 4 whites. 
Almonds blanched, dried, pounded in a mortar with 
the white of eggs, sugar pounded into them, makes 
a paste which is forced through a lady-finger tube 
in a cord on powdered sugar, formed in rings and 
curves on pans; baked in a nearly cold oven. Ger¬ 
man Massepains or Marchpanes —One pound 
j sweet almonds, 1 oz. bitter almonds, 1 lb. sugar, 
j little rose-water; almonds pounded with rose-water, 

| stirred with sugar in saucepan over the fire till a firm 





370 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


MAT 

paste; when cool, rolled out in powdered sugar, cut 
in cakes, slightly baked. 

MATELOTE—A fish-stew, consisting of a prin¬ 
cipal fish in large pieces, with oysters, mussels, but¬ 
ton mushrooms, button onions, etc., and wine; to 
serve as a garnish. Matelote Sauce — Brown; 
button onions glazed by frying in butter and sugar, 
flour added, and broth, herbs, seasonings, wine; 
herbs taken out, and extract of meat, essence of an¬ 
chovy, coloring, mushrooms and oysters added. 
Matelote NoRMANDE-Cream-colored; white sauce 
made of fish-broth and oyster-liquor thickened with 
yolks; lemon juice, butter, mushrooms, oysters, 
scallops, mussels, shrimps, cray-fish, little white 
wine. Serves as sauce and garnish, to fish en Mate¬ 
lote Normande. 

MAUVIETTE (Fr.)—Lark. Same as alouette. 
Different names equivalent to meadow-lark, sky¬ 
lark. (See Alouette , Lark.) 

MAYONNAISE—Salad sauce; also cold sauce 
for fish. Made by putting into a bowl two or more 
raw yolks, little dry mustard, and stirring in drop by 
drop olive-oil, then some salt, then lemon juice or 
vinegar, also by drops alternately with the oil, con¬ 
tinuing to thicken it by adding oil and thinning with 
vinegar and lemon juice until sufficient; must be 
twice as much oil used as vinegar. Two points to 
-observe are to begin stirring the yolks with only a 
few drops of oil at the start; and, to add the salt after 
one-third the oil is in. A teaspoon powdered sugar 
and pinch cayenne to finish; 2 yolks will take up a 
cupful of oil. The sauce should be thick enough to 
spread over a dome of salad without running off. It 
becomes firmer by standing on ice a while. 

MAYONNAISE ASPIC—Good, firm aspic-jelly 
barely melted stirred into an equal quantity of ma¬ 
yonnaise. It makes a glossy yellow mayonnaise- 
jelly for ornamental cold-meat dishes and salads. 

MAYONNAISES—Term equivalent to salads. 
All dishes dressed with mayonnaise. A mayonnaise 
of lobster, of salmon, of chicken, of shrimps. Some 
salads have no such sauce or dressing, therefore the 
term is distinctive. 

MAZARINS—Moulds of fish, fillets of chicken or 
anything similar, set with aspic jelly or aspic mayon¬ 
naise, and turned out when cold. 

MAZARIN CAKE—A raised loaf of butter cake, 
not sweet, baked in a mould lined with almonds, cut 
in halves, and rum pudding sauce poured over it. 

MEAD— Honey wine. “In the time of King Ar¬ 
thur and his Knights of the Round Table, the drink 
that was prepared for royal use was ‘mead.’ Mead 
kept its place at the tables of the rich and the great 
for a considerable time, and yet for centuries it seems 
to have fallen quite out of account. It is as little 
thought of now as nepe 7 ithe, the drink of the gods 
on Mount Olympus; and yet mead, we believe, can 
be made a very pleasant drink. A continental paper 
gives a recipe for its preparation. Honey is the 


MEL 

sweetening constituent used. Forty to forty-five 
litres of water are put into a cauldron, with 10 litres 
honey; boil the mixture for 1 hours, during which 
time skim off the scum. The liquid is then put into 
a cask to ferment for 3 weeks.”—“The natives of 
Madagascar make a honey wine which is composed 
of three parts water to one part honey. They boil the 
water and honey together, and skim after the mix¬ 
ture is reduced to three-fourths. It is then put in 
pots of black earth to ferment. It has a pleasant 
tartish taste, but is very luscious.” English Mead- 
Ten pounds honey, 6 gls. water, few mixed spices; 
boiled an hour; when cool, some yeast spread on 
toast put in. When fermentation ceases, the keg 
bunged up, kept in a cellar; bottled after 6 months. 

MECCA LOAVES—Boston cream-puffs. 

MEDAILLONS (Fr.)—Medallions. Small round 
shapes of potted meat, or jellied meat, like pats of 
butter; decorated. Medaillons de Foie Gras— 
Biscuit-shapes of pate de foie gras variously orna¬ 
mented. 

MELEE CREAM—For cakes and pastries; made 
of 1 lb. sugar, 1 doz. eggs whipped together % hour 
over hot water or slow fire, and % hour more on ice; 
dissolved gelatine, 1 oz. in y 2 cup water, added while 
mixture is still warm. Spirits, flavoring essences or 
chopped figs as preferred. It makes a creamy sponge 
to fill a border-cake with. {See Gateaux .) 

MELON — “Although in Europe the melon is 
generally eaten with salt and pepper after the soup, 
in this country on account of its fragrance and sweet¬ 
ness it is preferred between the cheese and dessert.” 
It is served on a folded napkin with broken ice, the 
seeds having been removed previously. Compote 
of MELON-Canteloupe or muskmelon slightly green 
sliced, pared, boiled in syrup made of 1 lb. sugar to 
y^ pt. water, and flavored with wine or lemon; served 
as compote of fruit with rice or croutes. Melon 
Preserve —(/) Slices of melon dropped into hot 
syrup and allowed to remain till next day; the syrup 
poured off, boiled, poured boiling hot to the melon- 
slices; repeat for 3 days. (2) Melon-slices steeped in 
cold water, vinegar and salt 24 hours; drained, put 
in cold syrup, gradually heated to boiling; taken up, 
syrup boiled and poured over 3 successive days. 
Melon Mangoes— Small,late melons, green, inside 
scooped out, put in brine 24 hours, filled up with 
small onions, beans, cauliflower, etc., and mustard- 
seed and horseradish; boiling vinegar with spices 
poured over 5 successive days. Melon Salad —It 
makes one of the best fruit salads. Peel cut into 
small blocks; dress it with 1 tablespoonful of oil, in 
which you have mixed a small saltspoonful of salt; 
toss the meion gently in it, then use 1 or 2 more 
spoonfuls of oil, according to the quantity of fruit 
you have, and vinegar in proportion of % the oil; 
pepper to taste. Melon-Water Ice —Ripe melon 
pounded through a seive, sugar, water, glucose, 
lemon juice; frozen. Preserved Water-Melon 
Rind— The rind soaked in brine, then in cold water* 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


371 


MEL 

then boiled in strong syrup, with ginger to flavor, 
makes one of the best of preserves; and if taken from 
the syrup and dried to the condition of glace fruits, 
is a most useful ingredient in ornamental pastry and 
■confectionery work. Keeping Melons— Water¬ 
melons are now kept in a frozen state by cold storage. 

MELON MOULDS—Tin moulds of graded sizes 
in the form of a half muskmelon. Can be found at 
most large tin and furnishing shops. They are used 
to steam puddings in, to press salads in to be turned 
out and spread over afterwards with mayonnaise, to 
set ornamental jellies and cream in, and to freeze 
mousses and other ices. 

MENEHOULD, SAINTE — Name of a town. 
“Among French towns, Sainte-Menehould, Mont- 
beliard, and Saverne, all possess a special celebrity 
for the manufacture of comestibles, in which the 
flesh of swine composes the principal ingredient. A 
special production of Sainte-Menehould is the pig’s 
foot truffled.” 

MERINGUE - Name of the white mixture of 
sugar and white of egg, which in the soft form is 
spread over lemon pies and the like, and baked; in a 
firmer condition is the icing with which cakes are 
iced and ornamented. Soft Meringue— For the 
tops of puddings, cup custards, etc.; made of i oz. 
sugar or little more to each white; white of eggs 
whipped up separately, sugar stirred in; very slack 
baked to fawn color. Icing Meringue— From 3 to 
6 whites to each pound of sugar; mixed by barely 
wetting the sugar with 3 or 4 whites and beating 
with a paddle for 13 or 20 minutes; more whites can 
be worked in, according to the purpose intended. 
Fruit Meringues —Sheet of cake spread with ripe 
raw fruit, covered with soft meringue, granulated 
sugar sifted on top; baked in very slack oven. 
Florentine Meringue— Sheet of tart paste spread 
with marmalade, covered with soft meringue; baked. 
Meringues a la Creme— Stiff meringue having 
5 or 6 whites worked into the pound of sugar and 
little acid (see Icing) dropped on paper on boards, to 
prevent the bottoms from baking; slack baked, either 
put by twos together with their own softness inside, 
or insides scooped out and filled with whipped cream. 
Border Meringues- Stiff meringue laid with a 
sack and tube forcer in circles size of a saucer on 
paper, sugar sifted over; baked very light-colored 
and dry; removed from paper by wetting, rings piled 
on each other 3 or 4 high, ornamented with icing, 
center filled with whipped cream, melee cream, or 
bavarian with strawberries. Meringue Panachee- 
Meringue shells filled with ice cream, made same as 
meringue a la creme above; dried after emptying; 
served singly like shells filled with different colors 
of ice cream. Meringue a la Parisienne —The 
border meringues above, piped with currant jelly. 

MERLUCHE (Fr.)—Haddock. 

METZELSUF—“Every well-regulated Pennsyl- 
vania-Dutch farmer kills at least two fat pigs every 
fall. The butchering is a grand affair, and all the 


MEX 

neighbors join in and help. When the hogs are 
killed, dressed and cut up, certain portions are set 
apart for those who helped in the butchering, and 
for gifts to poor widows in the neighborhood. This 
is distributed with a liberal hand, and is called the 
metzelsup. The farmer who forgets the metzelsup 
is looked upon as one for whom perdition surely 
yawns.” Metzel Soup Dinner — “Mr. Thomas 
Brown, of the Enterprise Hotel, Stapleton, Staten 
Island, has given a ‘ metzel soup ' dinner this as in 
previous years. He had a large and happy company 
present to enjoy his hospitality.” 

MEXICAN COOKERY—Remarks of friendly 
critics at the Capital. “A fair sample of the dinner 
bill of fare served for a dollar has been presented. 
Here is one for half a dollar, just as taken from the 
table of the Gillow Restaurant: 

, — Sopas .—, 

Consome. 

Sopa de pescado. 

Macarroni. 

/— Pescados .—. 

Huachinango. 

Con alcaparras. 

Huevos al gusto. 

Beefsteaks. 

Costillas de ternera. 

Id. de carnero. 

Id. milanesas. 

Puchero. 

Polla a la Toulousa. 

Hijaditos de carnero a la lionesa. 

Conejo con ungos. 

Fricando a la macedonia. 

Alcachopas k la diabla. 

Guisado a la napolitana. 

Roast beef. 

Manitas en especia. 

Pierna al horno. 

Frijoles. 

Ejotes. 

Fruta. Dulce. Cafe. Te. 

Piatillos sueltos, uno y medio real. 

Comida Cuatro Reales. 

The explanation at the bottom of the bill is that a 
single dish, if the customer does not want the whole 
dinner, will be given for a real and a medio, 18 cents; 
or everything on the bill will be served for 4 reals, 
half a dollar. Sopa is the soup, of which three kinds 
are offered. Pescados is the fish, of course. Huevos 
the reader already recognizes as eggs. After beef¬ 
steaks come the chops, veal, pork, or mutton. Pu¬ 
cker o is ‘boiled,’ and polio is enough like poultry to 
give a clue to what it really is—the chicken. Then 
follow five different kinds of stewed meats, and after 
these the roasts; and not a few of those dining will 
go leisurely through the whole bill, occupying from 
one to three hours in the agreeable occupation of 
getting their money’s worth. Frijoles and ejotes are 
beans and more beans, or baked beans and string 
beans. For frxita the waiter brings a plate of bana¬ 
nas, limes, and melons. Dulce is the pudding or 
sweets, and cafe is poured out in the cup before the 
guest—black ceffee until he says ‘stop,’ and hot milk 
added until the cup is full. And yet Americans go 
home and say they cannot get ‘ a square meal ’ in 
Mexico. Descending thescale, there are the 3 reals. 





372 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


MEX 

the 2 reals and the i real restaurants. For 12% cents 
a wholesome meal may be had in Mexico—not elab¬ 
orate, but satisfying to a hungry man. And still 
cheaper are the coffee and lunch stands, where, for a 
medio (which is a half real, 6cts.) bread, meat, and 
coffee in generous quantities may be had. A quar- 
tilla (the fourth of a real, 3 cts.) buys a cup of coffee 
and a large roll at any one of the hundreds of little 
coffee houses scattered through the districts where 
the poorer people live. If there as any criticism to 
be passed upon the food of the country, it is in the 
over-abundance of meat dishes. Even the entrees 
are freshly cooked. Mexico is a semi-tropical clime, 
and fruits abound. Nevertheless it is quite the proper 
thing to sit down and go through the bill of fare— 
soup, eggs, a beefsteak or a mutton chop, chicken, 
the roast beef, and so on, finishing with the vegeta¬ 
bles, one after the other, for, as already said, the table 
etiquette of the country prescribes one dish at a time. ” 
Fruit for Breakfast —“It is a custom to precede 
coffee with an indulgence in fruit, which is deli¬ 
cious and cheap in this country and is regarded as 
particularly healthful at this time of day, and the 
great basketful set before one is tempting enough 
in richness, variety of colors and shapes.” Grass¬ 
hoppers and Shrimps —“In the markets of Mex¬ 
ico both these lively little creatures are to be found 
in the same condition as whitebait when it appeals 
to the palate of th gourmet, viz., fried whole, and | 
they are eaten in the same way.” Mexico is now a 
gi-eat center for the manufacture of crystallized 
fruits. Apples, pears, crab apples, nuts, quinces, 
peaches, figs, oranges, lemons, limes, guavas, cac¬ 
tus leaves, and other varieties of tropical fruits are 
put up in forms as pleasing to the eye as they are 
exquisite in taste. A delicious confection is also 
made from sweet potatoes; another is dried bananas. 
They are all equal, if they do not excel, the best 
French preserves and sweets. They are absolutely 
unadulterated and are very cheap. An Unfriendly 
Critic in the Country —“The reception was held 
in a large arbor, erected for the purpose, of wild 
cane-stalks thatched with straw. As usual, the men 
retained their hats and smoked incessantly between 
and during every course. Tortillas were continu¬ 
ally sent in, hot from the griddle—made by women 
secreted in a hut somewhere in the rear—and piled 
in a steaming heap in front of the alcadi, who distrib¬ 
uted them around with an easy and graceful scuffle, 
something as an expert player deals his cards. Now 
and then fresh water was passed in mugs, it being 
the elegant fashion for each guest to fill his mouth, 
draw it noisily to and fro between his teeth, then 
eject it upon the floor. The menu , as nearly as it 
can be rendered in English, was as follows: 

Cigarettes. 

Caldo (broth) with garlic, chilli and cigarettes. 
Sopa—stewed in grease and garnished with chilli. 

Cigarettes. 

Pucharo—stuff of every description, fish, flesh, and 
fowl, seeds, pods, green fruits, roots and vege¬ 
tables, all boiled together, served on a huge 
platter, with chilli sauce. 


MIL 

Cigarettes. 

Chicken stewed with grease and chilli. 

Cigarettes. 

Kid’s head baked with garlic. 

Cigarettes. 

Red beans baked in oil. 

Cigarettes. 

Sweetmeats and coffee, with cigarettes. 

Tortillas all the time.” 

Pucharo — Water, beef, garbancos (chick peas),, 
pork, ham, salt and pepper, leeks, celery, parsley, 
mint, cloves, garlic, cabbage, pumpkin, and a large 
choriso (Bologna sausage); all boiled for different 
lengths of time. Peas and meat served together 
and soup aside. Mexican Mutton with Beans 
—Leg of mutton with garlic inserted; the outside 
fried brown, broth and gravy added with chillies, 
onions, aromatics, simmered in the gravy 2 hours;, 
served with puree of Mexican black beans. Tor¬ 
tillas —Corn cakes. 

MICHAEL ANGELO’S PUDDING—Curd of 
milk turned with rennet, with fruits, boiled like a 
plum pudding. Made of 2}^ lbs. firm drained curd,. 
10 eggs, 1 lb. raisins, lb. each preserved green¬ 
gage, apricot and cherries, 6 oz. each sugar and 
bread-crumbs, 3 oz. citron, 1 glass each brandy and 
rum, mixed well, in cloth or mould, boiled or 
steamed 5 hours; brandy sauce. 

MIGNON, FILET-Minion or small fillet. Some¬ 
times in the menu it means a small tenderloin beef¬ 
steak. If of fowl it signifies the smaller of the two- 
natural divisions of the meat of the breast. 

MIGNONETTE—One of the perplexing terms, 
in cookery directions, as it is confounded with a 
plant of that name. It means pepper broken or 
coarsely ground, so that it can be strained out of 
the sauces again and not remain as powdered pepper 
would. 

MILANAISE GARNISH—Strips of macaroni,, 
ham, chicken, truffles, in white sauce with grated 
Parmesan. Dishes finished with this garnish are 
a la Milanaise. 

MILK— Skimmed or Watered Milk —To de¬ 
tect whether the cream has been removed to any 
great extent, the old form of lactometer, now more 
properly called a creamometer , may be used. This 
instrument consists simply of a long tubular glass, 
divided by markings into one hundred equal parts. 
The milk to be tested should be poured into this 
glass up to the topmost division, and set aside for 
from 10 to 12 hours in summer, or from 15 to 16 in 
winter; this will allow ample time for the whole of 
the cream to arise, and the stratum thus separated 
ought to measure from S to 8 % divisions on the 
glass— i. e., good milk should have from S to 8% per 
cent, of cream. If the quantity of cream registers 
only dy 2 per cent., either some of it must have been 
abstracted, or 33 per cent, of water may have been 
added to the milk. In like manner 5 per cent, of 
cream shows that the milk has been robbed of from 
3 to 3% per cent., or diluted with 50 per cent, of 
water. But the milk of many varieties of cows is 








THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


373 


MIL 

often considerably richer; it reaches in the Alder¬ 
ney breed to as much as iS per cent., and in certain 
of the Scandinavian cows, which are fed on the rich 
mountain pastures during summer and on the same 
fodder collected in silos in winter, an average quite 
as high is maintained perpetually. Starch in 
Milk— Very rarely it has been stated that dishonest 
dealers add starch to the milk to remove the bluish 
tinge due to previous dilution with water; but this 
can easily be detected by the addition of a drop or 
two of tincture of iodine from the medicine chest, 
which every well-regulated hotel ought to be pro¬ 
vided with. If starch be present the milk will turn 
blue. Chalk in Milk —Sometimes chalk has been 
added to correct the acidity of milk which has 
“turned,” and aiso to give it “body;” this form of 
adulteration is happily of very rare occurrence, 
and can be at once detected by the practiced palate 
of any one accustomed to the pure article. If sus¬ 
pected, the milk should be allowed to stand aside 
in a quiet place in a tumbler, and, if chalk has been 
added, a deposit will accumulate. Pour off the top 
without disturbing the sediment; pour in a little 
water and allow it to settle. Repeat this again and 
a white powder will be left, which will effervesce 
when acid is added to it. As a confirmatory test, add 
acetic acid to the sediment; it will effervesce and 
finally dissolve up the chalk, and if to the clear sol¬ 
ution thus produced a little oxalate of ammonia sol¬ 
ution is poured in, it will finally demonstrate the 
presence of chalk by throwing down a white pre¬ 
cipitate. A German Test — For watered milk, 
consists in dipping a well-polished knitting-needle 
into a deep vessel of milk, and then immediately 
withdrawing it in an upright position. If the milk 
is pure, a drop of the fluid will hang to the needle; 
but the addition of even a small portion of water 
will prevent the adherence of the drop. Condensed 
Milk —Is 4 qts. of cow’s milk from which 3 qts. of 
water are evaporated, leaving 1 qt. of the solid con¬ 
stituents of milk, to which is added a sufficient 
quantity of sugar to preserve and conserve it. All 
condensed milk thickens with age in the hermetic¬ 
ally sealed can, but a little stirring returns it at once 
to its former consistency. Milk, although thickened 
in the can, is in no manner stale nor injured. Un¬ 
sweetened C ondensed Milk—Is evaporated milk 
preserved by the addition of boracic acid and other 
chemicals, which give it a very slight saline taste. 
It is of the consistency of cream, will keep about a 
month, and is useful in localities where fresh milk 
is scarce. It is shipped in cans from the places of 
manufacture in New York and branch houses. It, 
of course, needs to be diluted with water, but serves 
as a substitute for cream as it is. Dried Milk— 
It is stated that milk has been successfullj'’ solidified 
and then powdered or made up in lumps. In either 
form it is claimed to keep weil, and henceforth milk 
is expected to be sold, to some extent, in a dry form 
like sugar. The desiccated milk, as we may term 
it, represents fresh cow’s milk in the highest form 


MIN 

of concentration, and it may be kept an indefinite 
time without deterioration. Three varieties are 
tinned, viz., unskimmed, skimmed, and sweetened 
milks, and the milk-powder is also combined with 
coffee, chocolate, and tea to form dry preparations 
of distinct dietetic value. The milk in powder dis¬ 
solves quite readily in warm table beverages. 
Dried Milk-Preparations— Milk cannot be con¬ 
densed more than three-fourths without some ad¬ 
mixture to preserve its solubility, as it all turns to a 
kind of cheese. It may be kept soluble by the addi¬ 
tion of sugar, and to a further degree by the addition 
of dried white of egg. With these two additions it 
may be evaporated to dryness, and finally powdered 
and kept, and dissolves easily. Only skimmed milk 
should be so prepared; the cream would make it oily 
and rancid in a short time. With this dried or can¬ 
died milk as a basis several culinary preparations in 
a powdered state can be made, as custard mixtures 
with dried eggs, blanc-mange with gelatine, etc., 
needing nothing but hot water in the prescribed pro¬ 
portion to make the article as required. Milk Soup 
—See Sou/'s. Milk Shake —A good trade is done 
in this in summertime. A milk shake is % pt. milk 
in a large lemonade-glass, a spoonful sugar, shaved 
ice, flavor if requested; covered and shaken to froth. 
There are machines for shaking them up 3 or 4 at 
once by the turn of a wheel. Milk Punch —See 
Drinks. Milk Wine— See Koumiss. 

MILT—The soft roe of fish. 

MINCEMEAT—Good quality is made of 3 lbs. 
boiled beef, 3 lbs. suet, 4 lbs. apples, 4 lbs. raisins, 

2 lbs. currants, 1 lb. citron, % lb. each lemon and or¬ 
ange peel, juice of 4 oranges and 4 lemons, 4 lbs., 
sugar, 2 nutmegs, 1 teaspoon each ground allspice, 
cloves, cinnamon, mace, pepper, 2 tablespoons salt;, 
ingredients chopped fine; cider enough to moisten. 
Lemon Mincemeat — Two lemons, 4 sharp ap¬ 
ples, y 2 lb. suet, 1 lb. currants, y lb. sugar, 2 oz. 
each candied lemon peel and citron, l / 2 nutmeg,, 
pinch of mace; the lemons to be pared and rind 
boiled, then minced; juice added to the other ingre¬ 
dients; no meat; stand a week before using; brandy 
if desired. 

MINT SAUCE—Chopped green mint, vinegar 
and sugar; mixed and served cold. This is the sauce 
for cold lamb and mutton in England and France, 
but is eaten with hot roast lamb in this country where 
cold meats are not in favor. Improved Mint Sauce 
—An‘Old Bohemian’observes: “When I talk of 
mint sauce, I do not mean the wretched mess of a 
few imperfectly chopped dry mint-leaves swimming 
about in a sea of malt vinegar, with a few grains of 
raw sugar dissolved in it, which one gets in some 
dining-rooms, and occasionally even at private ta¬ 
bles, and which has its admirers, too, among some 
chefs and blue ribbons, who coolly tell you that half 
an ounce of moist sugar will do for five fluid ounces 
of malt vinegar. I recommend the following recipe: 
Take a sufficiently large bunch of fresh green young. 











374 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


MIR 

mint to fill, when finely chopped, two to three table¬ 
spoonfuls; chop'the rind of a good-sized lemon very 
fine, and add it to the mint in a sauce-tureen; to four 
-ounces of best French vinegar add one ounce and a 
half of fresh lemon juice, and dissolve in this as 
much finely powdered best loaf-sugar as it will ab¬ 
sorb; pour the solution over the mint in the tureen, 
and let it stand an hour or so.” 

MIREPOIX (Fr.)-A brown broth or unthickened 
gravy made to braise meats in to give them a high 
flavor; made of veal, bacon, ham, onions, carrots, 
aromatics, wine, broth, butter, salt, pepper. The 
meats, etc., cut and fried brown in the butter, wine 
and broth added, simmered; liquor strained off is the 
mirepoix. 

MIRLITONS (Fr.)—Tartlets in patty pans with 
a pastry bottom crust and filled with very rich cus¬ 
tard ; much the same as maids of honor. Mirlitons 
aux Fleurs d’Oranger — Little patties of puff 
paste filled with a mixture of butter, sugar and eggs 
worked up together, powdered macaroons added to 
make a paste of it, candid orange flowers for flavor. 
Mirlitons de Rouen —Little puff paste patties 
filled with egg, thick cream and sugar in equal 
parts, beaten and flavored, sugar sifted plentifully 
on top as they are put in the oven. 

MIROTON (Fr.)—Dish of sliced fish, meat or 
fruit. Miroton de Homard — Slices of lobster 
meat dipped in salad sauce and served on salad. 
Miroton de Bceuf —Slices of cooked beef in a dish 
with savory sauce, covered with bread crumbs and 
baked. Miroton de Pommes— Apples cut in ring 
slices built up in dome form in a baking dish, inside 
filled with apple and peach marmalade, baked till 
done, sugar sifted over, served in the same dish with 
folded napkin around it or paper frill. 

MOCK CRAB—Cheese, bread crumbs, butter, 
vinegar, cayenne and salt, with an egg, made up to 
resemble devilled crabs, baked in shells. 

MOCK DUCK—Thin beef steak covered with 
duck stuffing, rolled up, tied, cooked tender in gravy 
in the oven. 

MOCK TURTLE SOUP —Made of beef stock 
with calf’s head boiled in it. The head boned and 
pressed, cut in dice when cold and put in the soup to 
.substitute turtle. (See Soups.) 

MCELLE (Fr.)—Marrow. Sauce Mcelle— Mar¬ 
row sauce. 

MONSELET, CHARLES—“The Prince of Pa¬ 
risian gourmets, and one of the few men on whom 
the mantle of Brillat-Savarin decended, has recent¬ 
ly died. Charles Monselet was born at Nantes, and 
spent his early years in the shop of his father, who 
was a bookseller. After many struggles he worked 
his way up to the foremost rank of journalism, and 
was one of the livelist chroniquerus on art, letters, 
and good living in Paris. His articles were full of 
wit, point, and piquancy. Saint-Beuve used to say 


MON 

to him, ‘Resumez vous, Monselet, and write a book.’ 
‘There are so many books,’ was the answer, ‘ that I 
abhor to add to their number.’ Nevertheless the 
lively chronicler became a voluminous contributor 
to book literature, without adding in any degree to 
his reputation as a writer. In order to revive the 
traditions of Brillat-Savarin and Grimod de leRey- 
niere, he wrote the ‘Almanach des Gourmands,’ 
and the ‘Cuisine Poetique.’ He also founded a mag¬ 
azine, Le Gourmet, which did not live; but Monse¬ 
let as has been well said, never invented a new dish 
nor wrote a solid book.” 

MONTE SANO CAKE — Variation of angel 
cake. Has butter in it. Equally as white but not 
quite so woolly. Is shorter eating, better to roll 
up for white jelly roll. Choice cake in any shape. 
Made of 42 whites, 2 y 2 lbs. sugar, 1 y 2 lbs. flour, 
lb. butter, 4 teaspoons cream tarter; flavoring. 
Make up like angel cake, have the butter melted, 
not hot, and beat it in after the flour. 

MONTPELLIER BUTTER —Green butter, 
served cold as sauce for fish, lobster, etc. Made of 
green herbs—tarragon, chervil, pimpernel, chives— 
scalded, drained and pounded; garlic, capers, hard 
yolks, anchovies, gherkins, butter, salt, pepper, 
nutmeg and tarragon vinegar worked into the paste 
at last. 

MONKEY—“ In Spanish Honduras the dish of 
honor is baked monkey, and sweeter meat you could 
not imagine. These monkeys live up in the branches 
of trees and on the vines; their feet never touch the 
earth beneath them, and they live on the choicest 
nuts and fruit. No chicken was ever so sweet and 
tender as baked monkey.” “The Anamite Tuduc, 
just deceased, was a curiosity among Emperors. 
The two chief institutions of his palace were his 
harem and his kitchen. He was an old man, and 
only allowed his sacred face to be seen by manda¬ 
rins of high rank. His principal meal consisted of 
never fewer than twenty courses, among which was 
his favorite delicacy of roast monkey. He fre¬ 
quently received a fatted ape from his subjects as a 
present, and nothing was more acceptable. His 
manner of daily life was said to be morel uxurious 
than that of his over lord, the Emperor of China.” 
“ Here is a Mandingo (African) bill of fare which 
Reade, the explorer, leaves on record for the amuse¬ 
ment of the curious. ‘ Then followed,’ he says, 
‘gazelle cutlets a la papillots; two small monkeys, 
served cross-legged and with liver sauce on toast; 
stewed iguana, which was much admired; a dish of 
roasted crocodile’s eggs; some slices of smoked ele¬ 
phant (from the interior); a few agreeable plates of 
fried locusts, land crabs and other crustacae; the 
breasts of mermaid, or manatee, the grand bonne- 
bouche of tne repast; some boiled alligator and 
some hippopotamus steaks.’ While this dinner does 
not equal in courses some of the elaborate feasts of 
civilized lands, certainly no one will say that it 
lacked variety.” 






375 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


MON 

MONTE SANO PUDDING-Excellentexample 
of a souffle, and one of the best puddings ever made; 
composed of 3 oz. flour, 3 oz. sugar, 3 oz. butter, 3 
e gj? s > 1 pt. boiling milk. The eggs separated; the 
yolks, sugar, butter and flour stirred together like 
cake, boiling milk poured into the mixture. When 
-cool, the whites whipped stiff and mixed in; baked in 
a pudding dish; wine sauce. It may perhaps require 
a little more milk if too stiff to take in the whites. 
Is like yellow sponge cake, but soft. 

MONTREAL PUDDING—Steamed raisin pud¬ 
dings made of 1 lb. bread-crumbs, 3 oz. sugar, 6eggs, 
1 pt. milk, 1 lb. raisins, lb. flour; steamed 3 hours. 

MOREL—A kind of mushroom with a netted 
surface, something like a piece of sponge on astern. 
They are stewed, fried, added to sauces. Morilles 
aux Croutons —Morels stewed, and served with 
the sauce on buttered toast. M.jrilles a l’Anda- 
louse —Morels cooked with oil, wine, ham, and 
served in the sauce. Morilles a l’Italienne— 
Served with Italian sauce. 

MORUE (Fr.)—Salt cod. 

MOTS A BREAD—See 'Jewish Cookery. 

MOULE (Fr.)—Mould. Moule d’Aspic a la 
Royale — A mould cf round slices of chicken, 
truffles, mushrooms, cock’s-combs, white of egg in 
shapes, cream sauce and aspic jelly to fill up and 
set it. 

MOULES (Fr.)—Mussels. Sauce Moules— 
Mussel sauce. 

MOUSSE (Fr.)—Moss; froth; something very 
light and spongy. The term is both to meat prepai- 
ations and to ice creams; there are mousses of foie 
gras, the softened paste having whipped cream 
mixed in it and then made cold, as well as biscuits 
glaces and moussesglaces. (See Ices.) Mousse Ice- 



individual mould. 

For mousses, muscovites, jellies, etc. 

Cream —Made by putting 8 yolks in a pint of strong 
sugar syrup (34 degrees) and whipping them over 
the fire until nearly boiling, but must not quite boil; 
then set the kettle in ice and salt, and continue whip¬ 
ping until nearly frozen; then a pint of thick cream 
is whipped and mixed into the other, along with 
whatever flavoring is wanted. It is not frozen in a 
freezer, nor worked any more, but put in a mould 
and buried in freezing mixture till wanted. The 
mould to be lined with thin white paper. Mousse 


MUL 

de HoMARD-Lobster meat with seasonings of lemon 
juice, etc., pounded through a seive, stirred up with 
a little butter; when nearly cold, some whipped 
cream incorporated with the purde, filled into small 
moulds; served cold. Mousse de Crevettes — 
Shrimps same way as lobster. {See Souffles, Pains.) 
Gelee Mousseuse a l’Eau de Yie— Brandy jelly, 
whipped to froth. Mousse aux FRAiSES-Whipped 
cream with strawberries, not frozen. 

MOUSSERONS (Fr.)—Mushrooms; the large or 
full-grown open ones. Champignons are small or 
button mushrooms. 

MOUSQUETAIRE SAUCE- Cold or salad sauce 
of oil, tarragon vinegar, mustard, shallot, salt, and 
pepper. 

MOUTARDE (Fr.)—Mustard. 

MUD-PUPPY—“Another delicacy is the mud- 
puppy, which comes from Ohio. It is a lower form 
of lizard than the hell-bender. It is a foot long, 
with a lizard-like body, and a long, exceedingly 
slabsided thin tail, with which it propels itself in 
the water with great rapidity. On the back of its 
head are gill tufts. When the mud-pappy is too 
long out of water, the tufts dry, and it dies from 
want of breath. Its feet are funny little things that 
straddle and sprawl around like a puppy’s. But the 
reason why it is called a mud-puppy is that, when 
fishermen wandering with fish-spears along the bor¬ 
ders of Western lakes and streams happen to bring 
up a mud-puppy, it utters short, sharp barks.” 

MUFFIN—The original English muffins are a 
flour batter-cake mixture, without eggs, raised with 
yeast and very light baked by pouring into tin rings 
set upon a hot griddle, or baking plate, and turned 
over when one side is done. When to be eaten, they 
are pulled open, and the two halves toasted and 
served hot. American muffins are the same batter- 
cake mixture made richer, baked in gem-pans or 
small muffin-rings, or are made of a piece of light 
bread dough reduced to thinness with warm milk, 
and enriched with sugar, butter and eggs, and baked 
as before. There are all sorts, as corn, wheat, gra¬ 
ham, rice and rye muffins. Minute Muffins —One 
pint milk, 2 beaten eggs, 2 tablespoons melted but¬ 
ter, 1 tablespoon sugar, 2 large teaspoons baking- 
powder, flour to make a batter that will just drop 
from the spoon, 

MULBERRY—“According to the doctors, the 
best fruit to eat at breakfast is a plate of mulberries. 
They contain more acid than most fruits, and yet are 
sweet and easily digestible.” In the United States 
the mulberry is held of little value; it is not often 
served as dessert, and a mulberry pie would be ac¬ 
counted one of the poorest. This is probably owing 
to the abundance of better fruit at the same season, 
and not that the mulberry is the worse here than in 
Europe where it is used in various ways. The best 
use to be made of it in cooking is to mix it with some 
sour fruit, apples or rhubarb, when it makes excel¬ 
lent pies and roly-polys. 











37G 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


MUL 

MULET (Fr.)—Gray mullet. 

MULLET—There are two fishes of the name, the 
red and gray mullet. The latter is one of the most 
abundant sea-fish of the southern coasts, and is 
cheap and but little esteemed accordingly. It is of 
good flavor, especially in the winter season; its flesh 
is rather dark and does not color as handsomely in 
the processes of cooking as most other fish. The red 
mullet is found in the same localities, but in very 
limited quantities, and is seldom seen in the 
markets. Red Mullet —“Most cooks make no dis¬ 
tinction in dressing the red and gray mullet; though 
the former is cooked woodcock fashion, without 
drawing, so delicate is the fish.” “If 3^011 get red 
mullet fresh from the sea, dress them as is done with 
woodcock, retaining the trail; but inland this is not 
a safe proceeding.” “A lover of mullet, the late 
Duke of Portland, was in the habit of going to 
Weymouth during the summer months for the sake 
of the red mullet which formerly abounded there. 
The largest used to be had for threepence or four- 
pence apiece; but he has been known to give two 
guineas for one weighing a pound and a half. His 
Grace’s custom was to put all the livers together 
into a butter-boat, to avoid the chances of inequal¬ 
ity; very properly considering that, to be helped to a 
mullet in the condition of an East Indian nabob, 
would be too severe a shock for the nerves or spirits 
of any man.” Mullet Liver— “Quinn the actor 
used to declare that the mullet was only created for 
its liver to serve as sauce to the john dory.” “A 
large mullet may be cut into fillets and fried, and 
served with sliced cucumber. The livers are the only 
sauce to be eaten with mullet,” Marcus Apicius 
on Mullet —“The Romans served the mullet with 
a seasoning of pepper, rue, onions, dates, and mus¬ 
tard, to which they added the flesh of the sea-hedge¬ 
hog reduced to a pulp, and oil.” “Red mullets are 
the favorite fish in Greece. They are cooked in oil, 
with garlic, parsley and cayenne pepper; you then 
strain tomatoes and make a good sauce, and let the 
fish cook in it very slowly, adding lemon juice.”— 
Rougets en Caisse— Red mullets sprinkled with 
oil and parsley, broiled in papers. Rougets en 
Papilottes —Red mullets baked in papers, served 
with Italian sauce. Rougets aux Fines IIerbes— 
Red mullets cooked with batter, wine, mushroom- 
catsup and anchovy; served in the sauce with 
chopped mushrooms, parsley, shallot, and lemon 
juice. Fillets de Rougets a la Montesquieu— 
Red mullet fillets saute in butter with wine and 
lemon juice; served with cream sauce. Mulets 
Grilles a la Ravigote Gray mullet broiled, and 
served with ravigote sauce. Mulets au Beurre 
Fondu —Gray mullet broiled, served with butter 
sauce. They are also cut in pieces, rolled in flour 
and fried, and split open, broiled, and served with 
maitre cThotel butter. Ude and His Mullet 
Sauce —Ude considered it a great insult when in 
England a customer at the club refused to pay six¬ 
pence for a sauce. “ Wouldn’t pay for my mullet 


MUS 

sauce!” he exclaimed, “what,'does he think mullets 
come out of the sea with my sauce in their pockets V* 

MULLIGATAWNY—Curry soup. Also spelled 
mullagatawne. It derives its name from two Tamil 
words: molegoo , pepper, and timnee , water. “Mul- 
ligatunny” would therefore appear to be the proper 
spelling. AVritten in 1S27—“Mullaga-tawny sig¬ 
nifies pepper-water. The progress of inexperienced 
peripatetic diners-out has lately been arrested by this 
outlandish word being pasted on the windows of our 
coffee-houses. It has, we believe, answered the res¬ 
taurateurs' purpose, and often excited John Buil to 
walk in and taste—the more familiar name of ‘curry 
soup’ would, perhaps, not have had sufficient of the 
charms of novelty to seduce him from his much¬ 
loved mock-turtle.” The American way is to begin 
as for gumbo by fryfing the pieces of chicken and 
onion and curry-powder together; another method 
boils the chicken and other meat, such as a calf’s- 
head, first, then cuts it up and fries it with onions 
and curry, straining the broth the meat was boiled in 
to it. “The annexed recipe emanates from an Indian 
cook: Make 2 large cupfuls of mutton broth; cut up 
a chicken, and boil it in the broth for a good half- 
hour or more, first mixing in a tablespoonful of 
curry-powder or paste; slice 2 onions, fry brown in 
1 oz. of butter, add them to the chicken and broth,, 
and place them for some minutes over a slow fire,, 
and, just before serving, add cup of cocoanutmilk 
and some lemon juice. The cocoanut milk should be 
made by scraping the cocoanut very fine, pouring 
boiling water upon it, and, after it has stood for some 
time, squeezing it through muslin. If you cannot 
get a cocoanut, use cream.” 

MUSCOVITES—AA'hipped jellies; Moscow jel¬ 
lies, from whipped jelly having at first been called 
Russian jelly. These are combinations of jelly and 
ice cream made by adding gelatine to fruit juice or 
pulp and beating on ice till nearly set .hen mixing 
in whipped cream, putting it in a mould and burying 
in freezing mixture for 2 or 3 hours. (See Ices.) 

MUSHROOM—“I am a mushroom enthusiast- 
Danger of poison? Not a bit of it. With the exer¬ 
cise of a little common sense there is no danger of 
mistaking the edible variety for those that are poi¬ 
sonous. All toadstools, technically speaking, are 
mushrooms, but all mushrooms are not toadstools. 
Popular custom has given the name of mushroom 
only to the variety used in the kitchen. I have seen 
both sorts growing side by side, and exactly similar 
in appearance, but the difference is soon apparent 
when you attempt to remove the skin. You can’t 
skin a toadstool; it will break off in small fragments. 
The covering of the non-poisonous, on the contrary,, 
can be removed without the slightest difficulty. 
Mushrooms are extensively cultivated in France, 
but I did not know until recently that a similar in¬ 
dustry was practised in this city (Philadelphia). I 
had frequently noticed on Boldt’s bill of fare, even 
in the depth of winter, ‘fresh mushrooms,’ and 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


377 


MUS 

this naturally led to inquiry. I found that there are 
four or five persons in Philadelphia who make a 
business of cultivating the delicious fungi, and that 
in addition quite a large number of private house 
holders grow them in their cellars. One gardener 
utilizes a large Dock Street cellar for the purpose. 
A down-town truckman forces them to grow under 
the glass of a hot-house. An old Frenchwoman 
and her daughter down in ‘The Neck’ are more suc¬ 
cessful than all others, they having a bed made in 
an enclosed cow-shed. The largest grower is J. E. 
Kingsley, of the Continental Hotel, who has a large 
farm in addition to the biggest hotel in town. 
Those who grow them here receive from $1.00 to 
$1.50 per quart for them, and on some occasions 
even higher figures are obtained. When you come 
to eat them in the cafe a one-dollar note buys you 
about two mushrooms, and yet at that figure they 
<lo not even approach the delicacy of flavor and deli¬ 
ciousness of taste of the same growth when pur¬ 
chased in the open market house for from 10 to 25 
cents a quart. I tell you it is almost impossible to 
counterfeit nature. For instance, what a mockery 
are the canned mushrooms that so many people eat 
under a wild idea that they are enjoying a luxury! 
They are of a different species from our wild mush¬ 
rooms, and are cultivated in immense caves near 
Paris. When in their early or button growth they 
are canned and sent to this country, where they are 
.served in sauces. But what a delusion! To one 
whose palate can quickly appreciate the delicacy of 
the true article they taste as though one were chew¬ 
ing on preserved shavings. On a vacant plot of 
building land in the immediate neighborhood of the 
Harrow road and within four miles of Charing 
Cross is produced annually what is probably the 
most valuable crop grown in the open air and with¬ 
out the aid of glass on any acre of English soil. 
The space occupied is, indeed, rather more than an 
acre, the rent being just £12 a year, but the space 
devoted to mushrooms and manure is under an acre, 
and the uninitiated will be astonished to learn that 
from this small plot has been gathered in the last 
twelve months about twelve thousand pounds 
weight of mushrooms, all of which have been sold 
at Covent Garden at a price varying according to 
the season, but averaging ten-pence a pound for the 
whole year. Now, the value of twelve thousand 
pounds at ten-pence per pound is just five hundred 
pounds sterling. We have therefore the amazing 
circumstance that an acre of our metropolitan area 
has produced a richer garden crop than the cosiest 
corner of Kent or the most favored nook on Lord 
Sudeley’s jam farm in Gloucestershire.” A Simple 
Rule— “Make it a rule not to touch a mushroom 
whose lower gills are white.” Mushrooms on 
the Grill —The smallest buttons of the real mush¬ 
room (agaricus camfestris) are, as everybody knows, 
delicious if nicely broiled, but for a prime dish of 
mushrooms from the grill, whether to eat alone or 
with a kidney, or steak, or cutlet, we prefer them 


MUS 

fully grown, so that the brown gills are quite ex¬ 
posed; for in the buttons the gills are hidden by a 
membrane, which disappears as the head expands 
and rends it asunder. Mushrooms on Toast— 
Slices of buttered toast covered with fresh mush¬ 
rooms, which have been dipped in butter and sea¬ 
soned, set in the top part of a hot oven till cooked. 
Stuffed Mushrooms — Open, cup-shaped fresh 
mushrooms peeled on the upper side, washed, the 
stalks chopped with parsley and shallots, stirred 
over fire with butter and thickening, the mushrooms 
filled with this stuffing and baked about 10 minutes. 
Croustades of Mushrooms —Cup-shapes of fried 
bread or rolls filled with mushrooms in sauce; the 
mushrooms cooked with butter, parsley, chives, salt, 
pepper, stock, and thickened with yolk of egg; little 
lemon juice. Broiled Mushrooms —Large open 
mushrooms steeped in oil for an hour, broiled on 
wire broiler, seasoned; served on toast. Vege¬ 
tarian Mushroom Pie —Equal quantities of fresh 
mushrooms and sliced raw potatoes in a buttered 



MUSHROOMS. 


pie dish with seasonings, little water, covered with 
paste, baked. Stalks of mushrooms stewed to make 
gravy to pour in the pie. Where Mushrooms 
are Understood —“A strange variety of taste has 
prevailed in various countries in regard to mush¬ 
rooms. In Russia the peasants are never without 
them. They are hung up to dry in the roofs of the 
cottages like oat-cake in Lancashire, and form a 
greatly esteemed relish to all sorts of dishes. In 
some parts of Germany, also, they are largely pre¬ 
served in brine for cooking purposes. In England, 
however, it is only lately that they have come at all 
into general use.” The Beefsteak Mushroom — 
“Amongst edible members of the mushroom tribe, 
a much esteemed article of diet, is the beefsteak 
fungus (fistulina hepaticd). It grows on trees, 
usually oak, is firm and juicy, and, as its popular 
name indicates, bear a great resemblance to a piece 
of beefsteak. Its weight may exceed 20 lbs. It is 
used sliced and eaten with salad, or grilled like true 
mushrooms.” The Onion Test —There are many 
varieties of the true mushroom and of the horse- 
mushroom, but all are equally good for table. To 
distinguish between these and noxious fungi, the 








378 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


MUS 

following test is recommended: Take half an on¬ 
ion, stripped of its external skin, and boil it with 
the mushrooms; if the color of the onion is changed 
and it becomes bluish, or tinged with black, it is an 
evident sign that poisonous fungi are present. If 
the onion preserves its color there is no danger. 
Mushroom Ketchup or Catsup — Large field 
mushrooms peeled, crushed to a pulp, i tablespoon 
salt to every quart; let stand 24 hours, the liquor 
drained off and to every quart of it 20 cloves, 30 each 
pepper corns and allspice; boiled gently y 2 hour, 
bottled, corked when cold. Will keep a long time. 
Dried Mushrooms —These can be bought at Italian 
warehouses and fruit stores, and give more true 
mushroom flavor for sauces and garnishes than the 
canned champignons. Mushrooms can be dried, 
after peeling and trimming, on pans in a nearly cold 
baker’s oven, and kept in paper bags. Mushroom 
Patties —Puff-paste shells filled with cut-up mush¬ 
rooms in gravy. Baked Mushrooms —Peeled, cup¬ 
shaped mushrooms hollow side upwards in a pan 
with butter in each one, salt and pepper, parsley and 
lemon juice. 0 I wo mushrooms, each measuring 
27 y 2 inches in circumference and q inches in diam¬ 
eter, and weighing fully 13 ounces, have been 
gathered from the farm of James Bower, at Haps - 
ford, Cheshire. These are believed to be the largest 
mushrooms ever known to have been seen in En¬ 
gland.” 

MUSK ESSENCE—Used in flavoring drinks in 
some places, also jellies and creams; it has been 
temporarily the fashion. 

MUSKRAT—An old Maryland gentleman, who 
is somewhat of an epicure, says that between turkey 
and muskrat he will take muskrat all the time The 
way the Indians cooked this animal was either to 
roast it on coals or boil it with corn. The average 
man will say that he would not eat a muskrat for 
$10, but the average man does not know what he is 
talking about. An ordinary cook, however, will 
get nothing from the rodent except a failure and a 
bad odor. If the musk bag is cut and the scent is 
imparted to the meat it becomes worthless. 

MUSSEL—Bivalve shell-fish, shell about the 
length of a finger; nearly black, clings in clusters to 
rocks and wooden piles of wharves. Trade in 
Mussels— “All along the Norman coast mussel¬ 
fishing is greatly carried on, these shell-fish being 
sent from here to all parts of the country. They 
are at their best injuly. The usual way of eating 
them is boiled, with a sauce of cream and vinegar.” 
Mussels au Gratin—A great deal has been recent¬ 
ly said about mussels and the various ways of cook¬ 
ing these fish, whose cheapness and abundance put 
them within the reach of all. One of the tastiest 
ways of preparing mussels is au gratin, for which 
the following is the recipe: Choose some fine mus¬ 
sels; season with thyme, laural-leaf, and parsley; 
cook. Select fattest, and treat these only. Shell, 
and cover with a bechamel sauce much reduced, 


MUS 

with yolks and cheese grated over. Glaze in a hot 
oven and serve immediately. Mussels a la Mari- 
niere —After a few minutes steaming or broiling, 
take the mussels out of their shells, and toss them 
in a saucepan with a large lump of butter and finely 
chopped parsley, chives, and garlic; stir in a little 
black pepper and bread crumbs. Serve very hot. 
Moules a la Poulette —Mussels in yellow sauce. 
Moules a la Villeroi —Fried mussels, dipped be¬ 
fore frying in Villeroi sauce; then breaded, egged, 
and breaded. Molles de Gras— Mussels stewed 
with bacon and mushrooms, in thickened sauce. 
Coquilles de Moules— Scalloped mussels same 
as oysters. Mussels with Tomatoes— Mussels 
and their liquor, tomatoes, onion, half-fried in but¬ 
ter, white sauce, red and white pepper, salt, butter, 
little vinegar, parsley; served in deep dish with cru- 
tons. Mussel Soups— Same as oyster soups, with 
or without milk. Mussel Sauce— For fish; like 
oyster sauce; mussels in yellow sauce with lemon 
juice. 

MUSTARD—Flour, made of the mixed seed of 
black and white mustard, deprived of its mustard 
oil and toned down with more or less meal or farina. 
To Mix Mustard —Merely wet it with cold water. 
Epicures sometimes mix mustard with sherry or 
raisin wine. The French mix it with tarragon, 
shallot and other flavoring vinegars, and pepper. 
Shakspearean Quotation —In Shakspeare’s time 
Xht gourmets of the period ate mustard with pan¬ 
cakes. Touchstone puts the case “ of a certain 
knight that swore by his honor they were good pan¬ 
cakes, and swore by his honor the mustard was 
naught. Now, I’ll stand to it, the pancakes were 
naught and the mustard was good, yet was not 
the knight forsworn.” Mustard for Baldness— 
Gerard wrote about the same period: “ The seed of 

mustard pound with vinegar is an excellent sauce, 
good to be eaten with any gross meats, either fish or 
fleshe, because it doth help the digestion, warmeth 
stomache, and provoketh appetite. It also appeaseth 
the toothache being chewed in the mouth. Ithelpeth 
those that have their hair pulled off; it taketh away 
the blue and black marks that come of bruisings.” 
Mustard Oil Liniments —The bulk of the mus¬ 
tard oil is used for lubricating purposes, though a 
large proportion, differently treated and put up as a 
patent medicine, is used medicinally for rheumatics 
and other ailments of the joints and limbs. Mus¬ 
tard Plaster —Mix the mustard with the white of 
an egg, and all painful irritation will be done away 
with and the full benefit secured. Mustard Emetic 
—Mustard in warm water is often an efficient and 
ready antidote in the case of poison. Why it is 
Durham Mustard —Prior to the date of about 1720 
the seed was coarsely pounded in a mortar, as 
coarsely separated from the integument, and in that 
rough state prepared for use. In the year mentioned, 
it occurred to an old woman of the name of Clements, 
residing in Durham, to grind the seed in a mill, and 
pass it through the several processes which are re- 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


879 


MUT 

sorted to in making- flour from wheat. George I. 
stamped it with fashion by his approval. From this 
old lady residing in Durham it acquired the name of 
“ Durham Mustard.” Mustard in Sauces —When 
it is desirable to put mustard in a sauce, as in Robert 
sauce for instance, mustard flour, that is, unmade 
mustard, must always be used. Put a little of the 
sauce or stock, in a cup, stir in the mustard flour, 
and then work in with the rest of the sauce. Mus¬ 
tard Sauce —For fish. (/)-Raw mustard mixed 
with milk and little salt, more milk added and then 
vinegar. In short time the milk becomes thick by 
curdling, and is ready for use; i teaspoon flour mus¬ 
tard to *4 pt. milk. (2)— 1 teaspoon mustard flour and 
2 of baked flour with 3 oz. butter, 1 gill boiling water 
added, boiled; 1 teaspoon vinegar to finish. Doug¬ 
las Jerrold once went to a party given by a Mr. Pep¬ 
per, and said to his hoast, on entering the room, 
“ My dear Pepper, how glad you must be to see all 
your friends mustered.” 

MUTTON—“Liston was asked by a gentleman 
carving a loin of mutton: ‘Shall I cut it saddlevvise ?’ 
‘You had better cut it bridlewise,’ replied the fam¬ 
ous actor, ‘then we shall all stand a better chance of 
getting a bit in our mouths.’ ” A Welshman’s 
Heaven —“‘Heaven,’ said a Welsh preacher, 
searching hard for a comparison, ‘Heaven is like— 
is like—is like—heaven is like—boiled mutton and 
turnips!’ But the Cambrian heaven is still incom¬ 
plete if caper sauce be lacking to it.” Haricot de 
Mouton —Same as Navarin. Specialty. “The res¬ 
taurant department of the Cafe Helder is good, be¬ 
ing especially famed for its ragout of mutton, hari¬ 
cot de mouton , or navarin , as it is here called.”— 
Navarin de Mouton —For some reason the old- 
fashioned name haricot has fallen into disuse; nava¬ 
rin is mentioned to be a more dignified appellation. 
Made of the shoulder, breast and neck of mutton or 
lamb cut in square pieces and fried on all sides in fat; 
the fat poured off, flour shaken in the meat, broth 
and tomato sauce added. In another pan several 
sorts of vegetables in small pieces fried in butter 
with sugar to give color; vegetables, herbs and meat 
then put together and simmered about 2 hours; small 
potatoes added last. Rolled Breast of Mutton- 
Boned, chicken stuffing spread upon it, rolled up 
and tied, baked in gravy 3 hours. Cotelettes de 
Mouton a la Jardiniere — Mutton chops with 
jardiniere garnish. Cotelettes de Mouton a la 
SouBisE-Chops with puree of onions. Cotelettes 
de Mouton a la Provencale —Chops coated with 
thick sauce of onions, garlic, butter, eggs, cheese; 
breaded and fried. Cotelettes a la Vicomtesse- 
Chops coated with thick sauce of ham. mushrooms, 
yolks, stock; breaded, fried, paper frills on bones. 
Cotelettes aux Petites Racines— Chops on a 
border of mashed potatoes, with carrots and turnips 
in long shapes in brown sauce. Cotelettes aux 
Truffes— Chops with truffles cut in slices in brown 
sauce. Cotelettes Panees Grillees —Breaded 
chops broiled. Cotelettes aux Pointes d’As- 


MUT 

PERGES-Broiled chops with asparagus tips in butter. 
Cotelettes a la Durcelle —Chops baked in long 
paper cases, three in each; mushrooms, onions, 
brown sauce, parsley. Cotelettes a la Mar- 
seillaise— Coated with cold puree of onions;breaded 
and browned in the oven; Soubise sauce. Cote¬ 
lettes a la Bohemienne — Chops marinaded, 
breaded, broiled; sauce made of some of the mari¬ 
nade with tomato and brown sauce and currant jelly. 
Cotelettes en Robe de Chambre- Chops coated 
with veal forcemeat, eggs, and breaded; browned in 
oven; gravy sauce. Cotelettes a la Reforme— 
Chops breaded with chopped or grated ham mixed 
with the crumbs, fried, and served with reforme 
garnish. Cotelettes a la Marquise —Chops with 
a slice of ham laid on each, and veal forcemeat spread 
on it; breaded on top, and browned; white sauce with 
chopped ham. Cotelettes a la Financiere— 
Chops braised, served with financiere garnish.— 
Cotelettes a la Nelson— Chops breaded with 
Parmesan cheese in the crumbs, fried, served on 
border of mashed potatoes, center filled with maca¬ 
roni and cheese. Cotelettes a la Maintenon— 
Chops wrapped and served in paper; they having 
been previously sauteed in butter, with mushrooms, 
parsley, shallots, brown sauce and lemon juice added, 
some of the garnish twisted up with each chop; baked 
or broiled. Cotelettes a la Prince de Galles — 
Pieces of stewed breast of mutton breaded and fried; 
served with mashed turnips and gravy. Escalopes 
de Mouton aux Fines Herbes —Slices of mutton 
from the chump end of the loin cooked in a pan in 
butter, strewed over with chopped shallots, parsley 
and mushrooms. Filets de Mouton a la Mace¬ 
doine— The meat of the loin larded, braised, served 
with macedoine garnish. Carbonade de Mouton, 
Sauce Piquante —Loin of mutton cut in chops, 
sauteed, served with sauce. Hanche de Mouton 
au Jus de Groseilles —Haunch of mutton with 
gravy and currant jelly. Quartier de Mouton a 
la Bretonne —Fore quarter with white beans. 
Selle de Mouton a l’Anglaise —Roast saddle of 
mutton. Gigot Bouilli— Boiled leg of mutton with 
turnips. Gigot Sauce aux Capres— Boiled mut¬ 
ton, caper sauce. Leg of Mltton a la Mexicaine 
—Mutton with black beans. Leg of Mutton a la 
Bignon— Roasted with a clove of garlic inserted in 
the fleshy part; served with Bignon potatoes. Mut¬ 
ton Like Venison —Loin of mutton boned, soaked 
for 2 or 3 days in little port wine, basted with wine; 
served with gravy and currant jelly. Cavalier’s 
Broil—A shoulder of mutton half cooked in the 
oven wivh a buttered paper over, scored down to the 
bone, seasonings put in the cuts; broiled upon the 
gridiron; served with pickled mushrooms. Mutton 
Pie -Stewed meat well skimmed of fat, with onion, 
parsley, scooped potato balls and a top crust of 
good paste; baked an hour. Mutton Chops Like 
Venison — Chops without fat marinaded in oil, 
vinegar, salt, pepper, onions, herbs; sauteed; 
served with game sauce. Mutton Collops — 






380 


TIIE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


NAG 

(/) Thin slices or steaks from the leg. (2) Scotch 
collops are minced; either mutton or beef. Curried 
Mutton —Mutton in curry sauce; cold, cooked mut¬ 
ton will answer. Roast Mutton and Laver — 
“Most people know that a roast leg of four or five 
year old mutton (it were superfluous to expatiate 
upon the haunch) with laver served in the saucepan , 
is a dish of high merit, but it ought never to be pro¬ 
faned by the spit, which lets out the gravy, and 
shocks the sight with an unseemly perforation.”— 
Mutton Soups —Scotch broth, hodge-podge, barley, 
Piemontaise, Rouennaise, Grecque, etc. 

X. 

NAGEOIRES (Fr.)—Fins. Nageoiresde Tor- 
tue —Turtle fins or flippers. 

NAPERY — Tabl£ linen. Really boiling water 
will remove most fruit stains from napery; but 1 oz. 
sal ammoniac and 1 oz. salt of tartar, in a quart of 
water, will extract them; also sherry or claret stains, 
if the linen be allowed to soak in the solution a short 
time. 

NAPKIN—The law of the napkin is but vaguely 
understood. One of our esteemed metropolitan con¬ 
temporaries informs an eager inquirer that it is bad 
to fold the napkin after dinner, that the proper thing 
is to throw it with negligent disregard on the table 
beside the plate, as to fold it would be a reflection 
on the host, and imply a familiarity that would not 
benefit an invited guest. But the thoughtful reader 
will agree with us that this studied disorder is likely 
to be a good deal more trying to a fastidious hos¬ 
tess than an unstudied replacing of the napkin in 
good order beside the visitor’s plate. The proper 
thing is to fold the fabric with unostentatious care, 
and lay it on the left of the plate, far from the liquids, 
liqueurs and coffee, and thus testify to the hostess 
that her care in preparing the table has been ap¬ 
preciated. The napkin has played famous parts in the 
fortunes of men and women. It was one of the points 
admired in Marie Stuart that, thanks to her exquis¬ 
ite breeding in the court of Marie de Medici, her 
tables were more imposing than the full court of her 
great rival and executioner, Elizabeth. At the table 
of the latter the rudest forms ■were maintained, the 
dishes were served on the table, and the great 
queen helped herself to the platter without fork or 
spoon, a page standing behind her with a silver 
ewer to bathe her fingers when the flesh had been 
torn from the roasts. At the court of the empire 
Eugenie was excessively fastidious. The use of a 
napkin and the manner of eating an egg made or 
ruined the career of a guest. The great critic, Saint 
Beuve, was disgraced and left off the visiting list 
because at a breakfast with the emperor and em¬ 
press at the Tuilleries he carelessly opened his nap¬ 
kin and spread it over his knees and cut hi§ egg in 
two in the middle. The court etiquette prescribed 
that the half folded napkin should lie on the left 1 
knee to be used in the least obtrusive manner in 1 


NIV 

touching the lips, and the egg was to be merely 
broken on the larger end with the edge of the spoon 
and drained with its tip. The truth is, luxury and 
invention push table appliances so far that none can 
be expected to know the particular conventionality 
that may be considered good form in any diversified 
society. The way for a young fellow to do is to keep 
his eyes open—which unless he is in love, he can 
do—and note what others do. 

NAPLES BISCUITS—Small sponge cakes. 

NAPOLITAINE (Fr.)—Neapolitan; in Naples 
style. 

NAPOLITAINE, SAUCE—Brown sauce con¬ 
taining port wine, horse-radish and currant jelly. 

NASTURTIUM—Well known garden flower of 
low trailing hahit; the green seeds are pickled as a 
substitute for capers. 

NATUREL(Fr.)—Plain. Pommes auNaturel 
—Potatoes plain, either in the skins or without sauce. 

NAVARIN (Fr.)—A brown mutton stew with 
assorted vegetables; the meat and vegetables both 
fried separately, first, then stewed together with 
water and thickened. The same as haricot of 
mutton. 

NAVET (Fr.)—Turnip. 

NEAT—English name for a calf. Neat’s Foot 
Oil— -The oil from calve’s feet, used for oiling ma¬ 
chinery. Neat’s Tongue— Calf’s tongue. 

NECTARINE—The smooth-skinned peach. Not 
much cultivated in this country in comparison with 
the peach. Is cooked, preserved and pickled in all 
ways the same as peaches. The seeds are the flavor¬ 
ing ingredient in noyau liqueur. 

NEGUS—Drink of wine and water. Named after 
a Col. Negus. Hot water is poured to sherry or port; 
sugar and slight flavoring. 

NELSON TART-Mixture of almond paste, eggs, 
butter and flour richer than cake; baked in a crust. 

NESSELRODE PUDDING-Kind of ice cream, 
made of puree of chestnuts, cream, candied fruits 
and flavorings. Named atter a Russian statesman. 
Can be made by preparing a chestnut-custard rich 
with yolks and sugar, adding any kind of candied 
fruits or marronsglaces, and then an equal quantity 
thick cream whipped, and flavored with maraschino. 

NEUCIIATEL CHEESE-Soft kind of Swiss 
cheese; comes in form of rolls, wrapped in tinfoil. 
Is made in this country. Easily imitated by making 
cream-curd cheese in any dairy. Favorite variety 
with a great number of hotel patrons; gets better as 
it ripens, and ought to be kept in stock to give time 
to improve. 

NILSSON CUTLETS — Cold dish of minced 
chicken in cutlet form, glazed all over and coated 
with chopped truffles and olives. Dished ornament¬ 
ally in a circle with salad in the center. 

NIVERNAISE (Fr.)—From Nivernon ; a mix- 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


381 


NOE 

ture ef vegetables in gravy for garnish; nearly same 
as macedoine or jardiniere. 

NOEL (Fr.)—Christmas. Pouding de Noel— 
Christmas pudding. 

NOIR (Fr.)—Black. CafeNoir —Black or extra 
strong coffee. BeurreNoir —Fried butter, black 
or, rather, brown, used for sauce. 

NOIX (Fr.)—A nut. Noix deCoco —Cocoanut. 
Noix de Y’eau— The cushion-shaped piece of veal 
that is part of the round, next the flank, suitable 
.from its shape for larding and glazing. 

NOISETTE (Fr.)—A small nut; hazelnut; filbert; 
also, fillets of meat or fish. 

NONNE (Fr.) —Nun. Nun’s Sighs or Nun’s 
Suppers ( Soupers de Nonnes) —Puff fritters, known 
as Spanish puffs. 

NOODLES—American name for nouilles. Shreds 
of egg paste, sort of macaroni. 

NOUGAT—Several varieties of candy. Almond 
Nougat, Brown —Made by melting sugar by heat 
only, and stirring into it split almonds. Almond 
Nougat, White— Sugar melted over the fire with 
Ihe least possible amount <of liquid, blanched al¬ 
monds stirred in. Corbeilles de Nougat —Bas¬ 
kets formed of either .of the foregoing candies in 
their soft state while hot. Trophy de Nougat — 



white nougat pyramid sur socle. 
Ornamental sugar work on a decorated stand. 

An ornamental design built up of either of the above 
in the soft state while hot, such as a hollow globe of 
brown nougat formed in a mould and supported by a 
figure of Atlas in cast candy. Turkish Nougat— 


OIL 

A soft candy in loaf form that can be cut like cheese; 
made of powdered sugar, honey, glucose, almonds, 
etc. Honey Nougat —Another name for the pre¬ 
ceding. 

NORFOLK DUMPLINGS—Boiled light bread- 
dough. Pieces of the bread dough taken when light, 
made into balls, allowed to rise again, dropped into 
boiling water. Eaten either with meat or sweet 
sauce. 

NORWEGIAN PUDDINGS—Cup-puddings or 
cakes served with wine sauce. Made of y lb. butter, 
y lb. sugar, 6 eggs, y lb. ground rice, y lb. flour, 
2 teaspoons baking-powder, flavoring; mixed like 
cake, putin buttered cups; baked in slack oven, or 
steamed. 

NOUILLES (Fr.)—A yellow paste made of flour 
wetted with yolk of egg only, rolled out thin as pa¬ 
per, cut in shreds for soups, or cut in leaves and fancy 
shapes to decorate pates and meat pies with; also for 
making raviolis, noques, etc. (See Italian Cookery.) 
Nouilles are cooked with cheese, or with butter, or 
tomatoes and gravy, in all the same ways as maca¬ 
roni. 

NOUVELLES (Fr.)—New. Pommes Nou- 
velles —New potatoes. 

NOYAU—A liqueur or cordial flavored with nec¬ 
tarine, bitter almond and peach kernels. Noyau 
Cream —Whipped cream flavored with noyau and 
set with gelatine. (See Bavaroise.) 

NUDELN (Ger.)—Nouilles; noodles. 

O. 

OATMEAL—An article of the first necessity now 
in every hotel; eaten both at breakfast and supper. 
The rolled oats are much easier to cook than coarse 
oatmeal. When the latter is used it needs to be 
soaked in water over night, then boiled 2 hours to 
make mush or porridge. It is eaten with cream or 
milk. “ Oatmeal used to be the staple dietary arti¬ 
cle of our forefathers, but it i6 curious to note that 
while its sale has fallen off to a large extent in Scot¬ 
land, it has latterly increased greatly in England. 
This is surely a silent revenge for Bannockburn. We 
have forgotten our national poet’s line, ‘The Gale- 
some parritch, chief o’ Scotia’s food;’ and England, 
which is ‘ annexing’ every good thing that Scotland 
possesses, has now appropriated her porridge, 
while we poor Scotch are gradually deterioating our 
race by the consumption of tea and white bread.” 
Oatmeal Pudding with Cream— Made of i qt. 
boiling milk, 4 tablespoons oatmeal, 4 tablespoons 
flour, little salt. Oatmeal and flour stirred up with 
cold milk then poured into the boiling milk; cooked 
20 minutes or longer; eaten with cream and sugar. 
Oat Cake —Akron oatmeal with little butter rubbed 
in and salt, made into dough with hot water, rolled 
out thin and size of a dinner plate, cut in quarters, 
baked in oven. 

OIGNON (Fr.)—Onion. 









382 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


OIL 

OIL, FRYING—“There are two schools of cook¬ 
ery in France, as distinct from one another as the 
langue d’ Oil is distinct from langue d’Oc. There 
is the kitchen of the North—and of Paris—in which 
butter is the principal vehicle; and there is the kitch¬ 
en of the South—or Midi—in which oil is the chief 
assimilator; and the most trustworthy authorities 
on French gastronomy have always held that the 
cuisine au beurre was far more conducive to diges¬ 
tion than the cuisine a Vhuile .” Such is the theory 
deduced from cookery books but, in fact, butter is 
excessively dear in Paris and very little is used in 
cooking. The need of it is lessened by the employ¬ 
ment of gravies and sauces instead, and for frying* 
oil, beef suet and lard are used. In the United States 
cotton seed oil is becoming the principal medium for 
frying. The cheapness of an article soon leads to a 
trial and adoption without regard to arguments- 
The cheapest grades of cotton seed oil give out an 
unpleasant smell and taste when heated but the bet¬ 
ter grades do not, it is but a question of quality and 
price; and much of the lard used by those who ob¬ 
ject to the oil is but the same oil in disguise. (See 
Cotton Seed Oil Lard, Imitation Butter.') The Jews 
who fry much fish use oil for frying, it is, or has 
been, neat’s foot oil, but “vegetable oil” now takes 
the place of that. “ Potato chips” and French fried 
potatoes are now advertised as being fried without 
the use of lard—meaning that oil is used. The hotel 
steward buys oil by the barrel and satisfies himself 
by previous trial of a small lot whether it is suffi¬ 
ciently refined for his purpose. 

OIL, SALAD—Olive oil is obtained by crushing 
and pressing the olives in sacks, it is then subjected 
to refining processes. A vast quantity is produced 
yearly in the old countries and California is con¬ 
tributing largely to the supply, which she usually 
ships in cans; so it is not difficult, as is sometimes 
represented, to obtain real olive oil; but there is a 
likelihood that imitation oil being refined cotton oil, 
or pea-nut or both mixed, may be put upon the un¬ 
wary purchaser at the price of pure olive. The best 
test is heating some of the oil in a frying pan, let¬ 
ting it become hot enough to smoke, then if the ex¬ 
perimenter have had experience with low grades 
cotton oil, he will detect sufficient of the same smell 
in the refined article to apprise him that it is cotton 
oil still. Much cotton oil goes abroad in barrels and 
' comes back in flasks labelled pure olive oil. The 
probability is in most cases it is a mixture of real 
olive with pea-nut oil and double-refined cotton 
seed. As only the thoroughly educated palate can 
detect the difference there is no particular harm in 
this but the making the consumer pay for a cheaper 
imitation the high price of the genuine article. 
Salad oil is one of the items of serious expense in 
hotels and restaurants and the subject is worthy of 
thought and attention. 

OKRA—Well-known American vegetable, the 
seed pods of a plant like a hollyock which grows 
from 4 to 6 feet high. There are two varieties 


OLI 

grown for market; the best bears the short, thick, 
green pods which remain tender longer than the 
other kind, which are long, pale green, slender and 
wiry. Few people, perhaps none, like the taste or 
appearance of cooked okra at first, but the liking 
grows so that no vegetable is more welcome to the 
people of the South than this, not excepting aspar¬ 
agus or peas. It cooks to a sort of mucilage, if pre¬ 
pared to the Creole taste, that is stewed in very 
little water. Where this is considered an objection it 
is cooked in plenty of water, salted, and the mucilage 
is not then so apparent. Stewed Okra —The young 
and tender pods cut off at each end, washed, boiled 
in salted water about % hour, the water poured off; 
butter, pepper, little more salt mixed in by tipping 
up the vessel; okra served without breaking it in 
vegetable dishes. Okra a la Creole— The young 
pods trimmed, simmered in just enough water to 
cover with little salt, and buttered paper under the 
lid. When soft, a few spoonfuls olive oil and a 
minced red or green pepper shaken in; served as a 
vegetable. Stewed Okra with Tomato Sauce— 
Tender pods trimmed and cooked nearly done in 
salt water with a slice of bacon, taken up and trans¬ 
ferred to a saucepan containing tomato sauce and 
brown sauce mixed, with little butter. Stewed 
Okra and Tomatoes —Raw sliced tomatoes and 
okra sliced crosswise stewed together with season¬ 
ings; served as a vegetable like corn and tomatoes 
cr succotash. Okra Soups —Gumbo soups, and 
okra and tomato soups. Dried Okra —This sells 
in New York at about a dollar a pound at retail. It 
is evaporated in slices like apples, is used after 
soaking in that form, and is also ground to powder 
and used as gumbo file. 

OLIVE—The fruit of the olive tree, formerly a 
special product of southern Europe, now the largest 
and best come from California. For hotel use olives 
should be bought by the keg, as glass packing, 
labels, etc.,, cost as much as the fruit. The majority 
of Americans are fond of olives and the demand is 
increasing. Olives in Brine—As bought in kegs 
and jars the olives are in salt water; they have been 
gathered green and steeped for a short time in lime 
water and lye, which counteracts the oil in them, 
and after that they will take up salt as well as cu¬ 
cumbers and are thus preserved. To Ppevent 
Softening —Olives must be kept under the brine, 
in the dark, covered up from the air, and never 
taken from the keg with the hands; nearly full kegs 
will sometimes turn soft and have to be thrown 
away through neglect of these precautions; the best 
package is the firkin-shaped bucket with a large 
bung in the lid; a wooden spoon can be used to 
dip them from the bung hole, which can then be 
tightly closed. Olives with Salads— Besides the 
favorite method of eating olives raw, and salted as 
they are, they are valued as an addition and orna¬ 
ment to every sort of salad, and only a little less 
welcome when stoned and served in meat sauces. 
Eating Olives— There is etiquette in eating olives. 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


383 


OLI 

Cardinal Richelieu is said to have detected an ad¬ 
venturer, who was passing himself off as a noble¬ 
man, by his helping himself to olives with a fork; 
it being comme il faut to use the fingers for that 
purpose. Olive Pickles — Some people do not 
like olives as generally packed in brine. To such 
we recommend the soaking of the olives over night 
in fresh water, for which vinegar may afterwards 
be substituted. By this means the olives are con¬ 
verted into a nice pickle, and are very appetizing. 
Olive Sauce —Olives in Franee are introduced in 
sauces for calves’ head and fowls; and a duck is 
served with olive sauce. For these purposes the 
olives are turned with a knife, so as to take out the 
stone and leave the fruit whole. Dumas’ “How to 
Cook an OnvE”-Place the olive inside an anchovy 
the anchovy inside a lark, the lark inside a quail, 
the quail inside a partridge, the partridge inside a 
pheasant, and the pheasant inside a turkey; roast 
the turkey until well done. Take the pheasant on*- 
of the turkey, the partridge out of the pheasant, the 
quail out of the partridge, the lark out of the quail, 
the anchovy out of the lark, and the olive out of the 
anchovy. The olive, imbued with the essential 
juices of all these toothsome viands, will, Dumas 
asserts, then be a hors d'oeuvre, fit to set before a 
king. 

OLIVES, MEAT—English name, without ap¬ 
parent reason, for thin slices of meat rolled up with 
forcemeat inside; thus there are “veal olive’’ pies, 
the rolls placed in order in a dish with gravy and a 
crust of paste, and many similar dishes. 

OLLA PODRIDA—See Spaiiish cookery . 

OMELET—Eggs slightly beaten, cooked like a 
pancake in a frying pan, rolled or half turned. 
There is an important little secret in making these 
delicacies. A very clean frying pan is of course 
indispensable,and after having placed about an ounce 
of fresh butter to melt in the frying-pan, the oiled 
butter should be poured into the omelette mixture, 
and thoroughly whisked into it. This will not only 
prevent the omfelet sticking to the pan, but will give 
it arichness not otherwise obtainale. Omelette 
aux Rognons —Specialty. “Well, now, try this: 
Stew the kidneys, add seasoning, a pinch of cayenne 
(or, better still, a small whole capsicum-pod), and 
an apple or two. When done, strain off; chop the 
kidneys fine; make a savory omelette; rub the apples 
through a tammy, and add them to the gravy; 
thicken it, and put it in the bottom of a scalding-hot 
dish; place the kidneys in the omelette, and let the 
latter almost float in the gravy, (or sauce) and serve. 
Ye gods! what a feast!” Omelette with Spin¬ 
ach —Spinach boiled, drained, chopped fine, sea¬ 
soned with little onion fried in butter. A savory 
omelet made and served in hot dish with the spin¬ 
ach around it. Asparagus Omelet Green points 
of asparagus boiled, drained, seasoned, mixed in an 
omelet and cooked in it. Parsley Omelet Three 
eggs, tablespoonful of cream and same of chopped 


OME 

parsley, slightly beaten together; cooked on one 
side, salted, rolled up. Kidney Omelet —Mutton 
kidneys thinly sliced, fried, and sauce made to them 
with wine. A savory omelet made and kidneys in¬ 
closed in it, with the thick sauce. Tomato Ome¬ 
let —Onion fried in butter, and tomatoes added and 
dried down, seasoned. Omelet made, cooked on 
one side and tomatoes inclosed in it. Omelette a 
la Minute— “ Before an English cook would have 
fairly smashed her eggs, a French chej has whisked 
them, tossed in a pinch of salt and chopped parsley, 
shaken all over a roaring coke fire as if he was seized 
with sudden frenzy, and plumped his omelet into a 
dish cooked to a turn. The Granville Hotel has a 
chef who is great at that triumph of the art culinary 
—an omelet. Especially does he excel with shrimp 
and truffle omelets.” Omelette a la Jardiniere 
—Mixed vegetables comprising mushrooms, carrots, 
turnips, beans, peas, cooked in stock with herbs;, 
brown sauce and thickening added. Half the vege¬ 
tables mixed in an omelet, rest poured over when, 
done. Omelette au Naturel — Plain omelet. 
Omelette aux IIuitres— Oyster omelet. Ome¬ 
lette aux Olives — Omelet with chopped olives 
and brown sauce. Omelette aux Champignons 
—Mushroom omelet. Omelette au Parmesan— 
With grated Parmesan cheese. Omelette au 
Fromage —Cheese omelet. Omelette auJambon 
Ham omelet. Omelette au Lard —Bacon omelet. 
Omelette a la Puree de Volaille — Puree of 
chicken in cream rolled up in the omelet. Ome¬ 
lette aux Truffes —Sliced truffles in brown sauce 
in the center of the omelet. Omelette aux Epi- 
nards —Spinach omelet, green color, the puree of 
spinach mixed with the eggs before cooking. 
Omelette aux Fines IIerbes —Mixture of shal¬ 
lots, mushrooms and parsley lightly fried, mixed in 
the omelet before cooking. Omelette a l’Al- 
gerienne —Rice boiled, seasoned with butter and 
tomato sauce, spread inside an omelet; served with 
tomato sauce. Omelette a l’Indienne — Onion 
lightly fried in oil, with curry powder and cream 
mixed in the omelet before cooking. Boiled and 
seasoned rice spread on the omelet and folded up in 
it; served with curry sauce. Savory Souffle — 
Light omelet made by separating the yolks and 
whites, yolks beaten with little cream and season¬ 
ings, whites whipped firm and added; cooked by 
stirring in the omelet pan and finish in the oven. 
Spanish Omelet —Tomatoes, chopped ham, green 
pepper and onions fried together, placed part inside 
and rest around the omelet. Omelette a la Pro- 
vencale —Onion omelet with little garlic, the on¬ 
ions and garlic lightly fried first, rolled up in the 
omelet. Travelers’ Omelet —Cold, substitute 
for sandwiches. Omelet like a pancake, spread 
with potted ham or tongue and mustard. Sports¬ 
man’s Omelet —With puree of game inside and 
hot fumet of game sauce. Omelette a la Mila- 
NAISE-Macaroni and cheese in tomato sauce inside an 
omelet, cheese sifted over outside while hot enough 





384 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ONI 

to partly melt it; sauce. Omelette aux Confi¬ 
tures —Sweet omelet soufflee with marmalade in 
the baking dish under it, baked, sugared over top. 
•Omelette a la Claremont— Sweet egg pancake 
•with apple marmalade inside, sugared over and 
: glazed. Omelette a la Celestine— Omelet with 
frangipane pastry cream inside, apricot jam diluted 
with kirschwasser poured over. Omelette au 
Chocolate — Soufflee made by adding dissolved 
chocolate in warm cream to yolks, the whites 
whipped and added; cooked partly in omelet pan on 
fire, finished in the oven. Meringued Omelet— 
Omelet rolled up with jam inside, meringued over 
and browned. Omelette au Rhum —Rum omelet. 
Omelet with little sugar and cream in it and spoon¬ 
ful of rum; when turned on dish sugared over, 
marked in stripes with red-hot wire on the sugar, 
warm rum poured around and set on fire. Ome¬ 
lette Souffle —Puff omelet, sweet and flavored; 
made with i teaspoon sugar to each egg, yolks and 
whites whipped separately, with sugar and tea¬ 
spoonful milk with the yolks; all stirred together, 
baked in dish or in frying pan partly on top and fin¬ 
ished in oven. Sugar sifted over and should be 
glazed with red-hot shovel or iron. Omelettes 
soufflees are made almost as various as ice creams, 
with different flavorings and mixtures of pistachios, 
almonds, etc. (See Esfgs.) 

ONION—“We give the name of onion to all the 
plants of the onion tribe. The leek is to us an on¬ 
ion, and so is garlic and the shallot. In old En¬ 
glish the leek was the type, and garlic was but a 
gar-leek—a spear-headed leek. In the language of 
science, garlic is made the standard, and the onion 
is but a species of allium or garlic. It may be taken 
for granted that of all the flavoring substances used 
in cookery, the onion is, after salt, the most valu¬ 
able; and cunningly concealed in a sauce, in a stew, 
•or in a soup, it yields enjoyment even to those who 
would carefully put it from them if they saw it.” 
“A famous epicure once said that two things were 
absolutely indispensable to a good dinner and with¬ 
out either of them the cook’s art is lost. He meant 
the onion and the truffle. For the truffle in recent 
years several substitutes have been found, but the 
onion still holds its own unrivaled as the essence of 
all dishes that are prized because of their flavor. 
The onion is the sheet anchor of the skillful cook. 
It is impossible to prepare the delicate Bordelaise 
sauce without resorting to the use of onions and a 
shade of garlic. This may suprise many of those 
who detest the very mention of the onion, but it is 
nevertheless a fact, and it is the judicious use of 
these two seasonings that stamps the expert cook.” 
Onions for Health —“Another writer, advocat¬ 
ing their use, says: During unhealthy seasons, when 
diphtheria and like contagious diseases prevail, on¬ 
ions ought to be eaten raw at least once a week. 
Onions are invigorating, prophylactic beyond de¬ 
scription.” Onions for a Cold —“For a cold on 
the chest there is no better specific, for most persons, 


ORA 

than well boiled or roasted onions.” Onions a la 
Creme —Onions boiled in salted water, drained, put 
in cream sauce. Stewed Onions —Cut in quarters, 
boiled in salted water, drained, and put into butter 
sauce or cream sauce. Fried Onions —(/) Sliced in 
a frying pan and sauteed till partly brown and all 
tender, fat drained off, seasoned. (2) Cut in rings, 
fried in kettle of hot lard like fried potatoes, drained, 
salted. Baked Onions —Parboiled, drained, placed 
in baking pan with butter, little sugar and water, 
salt; basted while baking till brown, and glazed. 
Oignons al t Jus—Boiled onions with meat gravy. 
Oignons Farcis —Centers cut out, stuffed, baked. 
Oignons a la Poulette —Button onions in yellow 
sauce thickened with yolks. Puree d’Oignons a 
la Bretonne —Onions mashed through a strainer, 
simmered with meat glaze, served with fried bread 
in shapes. Onion Sauces — Soubise sauce both 
white ard brown, Bretonne, etc. (See Sauces .)— 
Onion Soups —Cream of onions, puree of onions, 
Soubise, etc. (See SouJ>s.) 

OPPOSSUM — American country luxury. The 
’possum is like a young pig; its skin is cooked with 
it the same way, being freed from the hair by scald¬ 
ing and scraping. The famous Southern native dish 
of ’ Possum and Sweet Potatoes has the ’pos¬ 
sum split open, surrounded with potatoes cut length¬ 
wise, all baked in a pan together with salt, pepper 
and lard or fat of some kind. Served with corn 
bread. This animal is hunted with dogs; is found 
in hollow trees. 

ORANGE—How to Eat an Orange— In Flori¬ 
da, and many other parts of the country, the orange 
is cut in halves and its juice and pulp are passed to 
the mouth with a teaspoon. In Havana the orange 
is served whole on the table, peeled down to the 
juicy “meat” of the fruit, and you present the 
golden ball to your lips on the prongs of a fork. 
How to Serve Oranges —The best hotel plan of 
serving is this: the waiter with the point of a pen¬ 
knife divides the peel only, in four quarters without 
quite severing them at the bottom, then removes the 
peel from the orange which he further pares of its 
white coat; he then puts the orange back in its peel 
which is like four leaves to a flower, and so presents 
it to the guests. Another way is to peel the or¬ 
anges, divesting them as much as possible of the 
white inside rind as well, and pile them on a folded 
napkin in the fruit basket or compotiere. A method 
in advance of that for a family table or party at one 
table, is to take, say, 4 or 6 oranges, peel them care¬ 
fully, removing all the land; then pull the natural 
sections half apart, dividing them about half way; 
stick a clove in the top point of each section; bunch 
all the oranges together on a handsomely folded nap¬ 
kin in a compotiere, and with the loosened sections 
slightly spreading outwards the whole looks like 
one, like some novel sort of fruit or flower, and the 
further separation is easily accomplished with a tea¬ 
spoon. To Prepare an Orange for Eating — 
“Joseph gave me a sample of his work at my house. 






* 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ORA 

He sent my servant out for two oranges and a bunch 
of violets. He took the orange and cut it with his 
penknife so as to resemble a basket, deftly extracted 
the fruit, cut out all the eatable part, replaced it in 
the basket, poured the wasted juice over this, added 
kirsch and sugar. Then with a sharp penknife he 
cut a longitudinal slit in the handle of the basket, 
and inserted the violets in this, making of the orange- 
basket an entremet , pretty enough to be served on 
any table. Whilst performing this feat of culinary 
legerdemain (for it was done so deftly and expedi¬ 
tiously that it really was legerdemain), he called my 
attention to the fact that he never once touched the 
fruit with his hands.” Buy a Grove —“An orange 
tree will bear fruit until it arrives at the age of 150 
years, and there are instances recorded of orange 
trees bearing when 500 years old. In Malta and Na¬ 
ples, 15,000 oranges have been picked from a single 
tree; and there is one noted tree in the Sandwich 
Islands that has been estimated to bear 20,000 in one 
season. Orange Honey - —Yellow jam made of 3 
oranges, 1 lemon, 1 lb. sugar, lb. butter, S yolks, 
1 egg; sugar juice and grated rinds boiled together, 
butter and eggs added; simmered. Like honey, for 
filling mirletons, fanchonettes, cheese-cakes, dar- 
ioles, talmouses, turnovers, tarts, jelly cakes. Tan¬ 
gerine Jelly —Made of lb. sugar, 1 oz. gelatine, 
juice of 15 Tangerine oranges, 2 sour oranges, 1 
lemon, peel of 1 orange; gelatine dissolved in hot 
water, sugar, peel, juice added, strained; to make 3 
pints by adding water; set in moulds. - Orange 
Marmalade —Oranges peeled, the peel boiled 3 01-4 
hours, in 3 or 4 waters, till quite tender and bitter¬ 
ness all extracted; then shred as fine as hay; to every 
dozen oranges allowed 4 lemons, and juice of all 
squeezed into kettle, and as much water besides; 
to each pint of juice i) 4 , lbs. sugar, the peel added; 
all boiled till thick enough to keep. Compote of 
Oranges— (/) Oranges divided in sections [peeled]; 
to S oranges 1 lb. sugar, cup water, rind of 1 or¬ 
ange; boiled to make syrup; when a little cool 
poured over the oranges; eaten cold. (2) Oranges 
divested of peel and rind, boiled, without dividing, 
in 2 waters for hour, then boiled in syrup; peel 
boiled longer in 3 waters, then shredded and boiled 
in syrup; served on top of the oranges; cold like a 
preserve. Oranges a la Demidoff —Like compote 
No. 1, with maraschino in the syrup. Oranges a 
la Portugaise —Orange skins emptied with a tea¬ 
spoon, filled with orange ice and fruits, served frozen. 
Croutes aux ORANGES-Quarters of oranges boiled 
a few minutes in syrup, served on thin shapes of 
bread fried in butter. Orange Fritters —Peeled 
and quartered oranges scalded in boiling syrup, 
drained, dipped in batter, fried; sauce or powdered 
sugar. Orange Jelly —Sugar, water and gelatine 
boiled with white of egg and strained; orange rind 
added to it warm; orange juice filtered separately 
and added; all strained into mould and set on ice. 
(See Jellies.) Oranges Filled with Jelly— Or¬ 
ange skins emptied with teaspoon, filled with jellies 


385 


ORA 

of two or more colors, set on ice, cut, and colors ar¬ 
ranged alternately to serve. Orange Ice —Sugar- 
syrup, glucose, orange peel steeped, and orange 
juice; frozen. Croquembouche of Oranges— 
Sugar boiled to the crack, pared sections of oranges 
dipped in and placed in order while hot in a mould; 
the casing becomes candy when cold, and the form 
is turned out. Flan d'Oranges — An open pie 
filled with stewed oranges, custard on top, Pou- 
dings aux Oranges —Orange puddings of as many 
sorts as lemon puddings, either orange bread-pud- 
dings, oranges and rice, or tapioca, or starch, orange 
custard, etc. Beignets d’Oranges —Orange frit¬ 
ters. Creme d’Oranges— Orange cream. Glace 
Creme d’Oranges— Orange ice-cream. Orange 
Sauce for Ducks —See Bigarade. Orange Pies- 
Made as lemon pies in three or more ways. {See 
Lemons.) Orange Pudding— Specialtj - . Made of 
2 stale small sponge cakes, 4 oranges, 3 oz. sugar, 1 
oz. butter, 3 eggs, 1 cup milk; boiling milk to sponge 
cakes, little grated orange rind, all the juice and 
other ingredients; baked. Chartreuse of Or¬ 
anges —Oranges not peeled, cut in slices shape of 
the natural sections, dipped in strong orange jell}’, 
placed around a mould set in ice; when set, filled up 
with any sort of jelly, or Bavarian, or ice cream. 
Orange Snow —Orange jelly with whipped whites 
stirred in when about to set, and all whipped up 
white; set in moulds. Gelee Mousseuse a l’Or- 
axge —French name of orange snow above. Or¬ 
ange Salad— Sweet; made of 6 oranges, % lb. rai¬ 
sins, 2 oz. sugar, brandy or wine; 5 of the oranges 
peeled and in sections, raisins cut and stoned, soaked 
in sugar and brandy and mixed in, juice of other or¬ 
ange squeezed over. {See Ambrosia.) Oranges 
with Strawberries —“Nothing can surpass the 
method of eating strawberries with cream. The 
combination is not only delicious in itself, but car¬ 
ries with it the happiest remembrances of rural life- 
and childish innocence. But cream is not always to 
be had, and some people are afraid of it. The Span¬ 
iards have another noble combination, moistening 
the strawberries with the juice of a sweet orange. 
There are gastrologers who go further, and say that 
an addition of orange peel (by grating the zest with 
a lump of sugar) is an immense improvement; and 
that it must have been in this fashion the fruit was 
served in the banquets of Mount Ida.” Kinds of 
Oranges —It is said that about 100 varieties of or¬ 
anges are known in Italy. “ ‘Blood’ oranges, as 
they are called, come mostly from Valencia, but a 
few from Malta. The aromatic and delicious Tan¬ 
gerines hail from St. Michael’s, and also from Lis¬ 
bon, and varies considerably in price, according to- 
supply. Seville oranges come from the place of that 
name, and, as most people know, are now almost 
exclusively used for making marmalade and orange 
wine.” Canning Oranges —“Oranges have rec¬ 
ently been successfully canned. The fruit is peeled 
and broken into its natural sections before canning, 
and when taken out is just ready for use. This is 







38G 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ORC 

likely to become an important industry in the orange¬ 
growing districts of California and Florida.” Or¬ 
ange Trifle- Peeled oranges sliced in a dish, sugar 
over, another layer and sugar, boiled custard poured 
to the oranges warm, egg whites or cream (whipped) 
on top when cold; served with cake. Orangeade- 
Like lemonade. Orange WiNE-Sugar syrup boiled, 
orange juice added to it, fermented with yeast 3 or 4 
days, bunged tight; bottled after 6 months with little 
brandy added in the bottles. 

ORCIIANET ROOT—A coloring ingredient to 
be bought at drug stores, used to make red butter for 
■coloring cardinal sauce, etc. 

OREILLES (Fr.) — Ears. Oreilles deVeau 
aux Champignons —Calves’ ears with mushrooms. 
Oreilles d’Agneau FARCIES-Lambs’ ears stuffed, 
breaded and fried. Oreilles de Pokc a la Ste. 
Menehould —Pigs’ ears breaded and baked, served 
with remoulade sauce. Oreilles de Porc Brai- 
sees —Pigs’ ears braiseddn stock, served on spinach. 
Oreilles de Porc a la Lyonnaise —Cut in strips 
in brown onion sauce. 

ORGEAT—Almond syrup or milk of almonds. It 
is made with milk for orgeat ice-cream. “And now 
a tip to you, ladies and gentlemen, how to make or¬ 
geat as the Frenchman likes it, and probably often 
asks you for it. Take 2% lbs. of bitter almonds, 1 
lb. 1 oz. of sweet almonds, 20 lbs. of white sugar, 9 
pts. of water, the peel of 3 lemons, and 12 drops of 
essence of neroli. Throw the almonds into boiling 
water, leave them for 10 minutes, then place them 
in cold water and remove their skins; then pestle 
them up with the sugar, and, after adding the 9 pts. 
of water and the lemon peel, let them boil a minute 
or two, and finally pass the decoction through a seive, 
taking care to press out all the milk in the almonds. 
Orgeat is usually drunk with cold water (half-and- 
half), with a dash of rum in it. It makes a most 
wholesome and refreshing summer-drink.” 

ORIENTAL COOKERY — Turkish Dinner— 
“Silence and expedition are the chief characteristics 
of a Turkish meal. The table preparations are few, 
but the dishes are many; olives, caviare, cheese, etc., 
are dotted about, and perhaps as many as ten dishes 
are handed round on covered brazen dishes consist¬ 
ing of rice or barley, meat or boiled fish, cakes sea¬ 
soned with vegetables, roast lamb, beans, a species 
of rissole wrapped up in vine leaves, the inevitable 
pilaf and fruits, and, as wine is forbidden, an intox¬ 
icating substitute is found in liquors and brandy. 
Each person has his glass of sherbet by him, and 
his piece of unleavened bread, for the Turks love 
half-baked dough. It will comfort the European to 
see every one wash his hands before his meal, for 
forks are unknown, and each is expected to dip his 
fingers into the savory morsel as it is handed to him. 
During the whole of the feeding process scarcely 
four or five words will be uttered,and at the most your 
repast will last 20 minutes; but then afterward, with 
the coffee and the hubble-bubble, conversation will 


ORI 

flow freely. To the Turk eating is a serious gastro¬ 
nomic exercise, which will not admit of any con¬ 
versation being entered into during the process.”— 
Turkish Breakfast —“A Turkish breakfast com¬ 
prises about thirty dishes. Soon after the first dish 
comes lamb, roasted on the spit, which must never 
be wanting at any Turkish banquet. Then follow 
dishes of solid and liquid, sour and sweet, in the 
order of which a certain kind of recurring change is 
observed to keep the appetite alive. The pilau of 
boiled rice is always the concluding dish. The ex¬ 
ternals to such a feast as this are these: A great 
round plate of metal with a plain edge, of three feet 
in diameter, is placed on a low frame, and serves as 
a table, at which five or six people can repose on 
rugs. The legs are hidden in the extensive folds 
which encircle the body. The left hand must re¬ 
main invisible; it would be improper to expose it in 
any way while eating. The right hand is permitted 
alone to be active. There are no plates, or knives, 
or forks. The table is decked with dishes, deep and 
shallow, covered and uncovered. These are contin¬ 
ually being changed, so that little can be eaten from 
each. Some remain longer, as roast meat, cold milk, 
and gherkins, and are often recurred to. Before and 
after dinner they wash their hands. An attendant 
or slave kneels, with a metal basin in hand and a 
piece of soap on a little saucer in the other. Water 
is poured by him over the hands of the washer from 
a metal jug; over his arm hangs an elegantly em¬ 
broidered napkin for drying the hands upon.” The 
Turkish Kebab —The Turk of to-day usually de¬ 
clines pork, but will not scruple to use veal. He eats 
beef very rarely; he indulges in ducks, lean fowls, 
and sheep and lamb, the flesh of which is cut in small 
pieces. These pieces are strung upon long spits, 
which are held and turned for some minutes over hot 
coals, where they are slowly roasted, retaining all 
their juices. This is what is termed kebab , a health¬ 
ful and nutritious food which all Europeans and 
Americans find delicious. The lists of Turkish 
dishes show no less than sixteen ordinary kebabs. 
(See Kabob.) Sut Kebabi —Pieces of the loin of 
mutton or lamb about the size of a guinea egg 
sprinkled with salt, pepper, and ground cinnamon, 
allowed to absorb the seasonings for 2 hours. Par¬ 
boiled in milk, taken out, ran upon skewers, and 
roasted, basted with milk and flour until brown. 
Dusted with cinnamon; served hot. Kiymadan 
Firin Kebabi —Baked mincemeat kebab , made of 
minced raw mutton, and minced onions partly fried 
in butter, with pistachio nuts, currants, salt, pepper 
and cinnamon. A caul fat is cut in pieces, the 
mincemeat in small portions wrapped in the pieces 
and baked. Turkish Sausages —Raw mutton 
minced, and raw rice mixed, with salt, pepper, cin¬ 
namon and milk. Stuffed into sausage skins, boiled 
a short time in salted water. When cold, fried in 
butter, or breaded and fried. Turkish Dolmades- 
Beef minced with raw rice, onion, parsley, pepper, 
salt, butter; some vine leaves parboiled, portions of 




THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 


387 


ORI 

sausage meat inclosed in the leaves, stewed slowly 
with water and butter in a covered saucepan; served 
with egg and lemon sauce. Sou valaki as— Minced 
beef balls, like German klose, made of lb. each 
minced beef and bread panada and % lb. suet, flavored 
with onion, made into quenelles very small, rolled in 
flour, cooked in light wine sauce an hour; served with 
mushrooms and stuffed olives. Pilaf— Rice boiled 
in broth, variously seasoned, nearly the same as 
Italian risotto. May have tomato sauce and butter. 
A traveller says: “In the villages, however, the 
inevitable dishes are pilaf and yaort. The former 
dish is found almost all over Mahommedan Asia. 
W ith a foundation of rice or wheat it receives a 
variety of other compounds, from chopped mutton 
to sweet almonds and raisins, and sometimes wild 
herbs. Yaort is a preparation of clabbered milk, 
prepared so that it will keep for a long time. Beig- 
nets du Harem —Rice dough made of cooked idee, 
flour, yeast and little salt, balls size of pigeon’s eggs 
taken off when it is light, and fried same as dough¬ 
nuts. They are quite white. Dusted with sugar 
and served with raspberry sauce. Turkish Sweets 
—The Turks are celebrated for the variety and 
excellence of their pastry and sweets. Souffles a 
la Skilizi —Vanilla sponge cakes moistened with 
kirschwasser syrup, made hot and served with sauce. 
Raiiat Lakoum —“ The raJiat lakoum (coagulated 
delight) of the Turks is a preparation of pecten (the 
base imitation sold in this country is flavored gela¬ 
tine.) I fed upon it once in the kitchen of the Se¬ 
raglio at Constantinople. It was specially prepared 
for the Sultanas, and presented to me by his Excel¬ 
lency the Grand Confectioner as a sample of his 
masterpiece. Although more than forty years have 
elapsed since that moment of delight, the remem¬ 
brance has not yet faded from my dreams. The fla¬ 
voring essences of the grape, the nectarine, the 
pineapple, and I know not what other fruits, were 
there with all their aromas unpolluted. The sher¬ 
bet was similar, but liquid. Well may the Turk 
abstain from the gross concoction that we call wine 
when such ambrosial nectar takes its place.”— Ra- 
hat-il-Holkum— Rahat Lakoum; otherwise fa¬ 
miliarly known in this country as “Turkish De¬ 
light.” Is made of 3 lbs. loaf sugar, 4 qts. water, 
boiled, 9 oz. starch added, boiled with constant 
stirring until thick. Pieces dropped in powdered 
■sugar will not moisten or absorb the sugar when it 
has boiled enough. To be flavored with musk the 
size of a pea, dissolved in rose water. Poured out 
in oiled pan, cut in pieces when cold. (See Fig 
Paste and Gum Drops.) Ekmek Kadayifi —Make 
A syrup of 1 lb. sugar and 2 pts. of water. Cut open 
4 or 5 muffins and soak them in the syrup for 2 or 3 
minutes. Remove with a slice, and place half of 
them in a baking-tin; sprinkle over with pounded 
almonds or pistachios, then a layer of clotted cream 
in. thick, more almonds, and then the remaining 
halves of the muffins. Now pour y of a pint of the 
syrup over, place in the oven, or on a moderate 


ORI 

charcoal fire, until the syrup is nearly all absorbed, 
and serve either hot or cold. Aadi Baklawa— 
Balaklava cakes. Paste like nouilles paste rolled 
out thin as paper, piled on each other with almond 
paste between some layers, butter poured over, 
baked in deep pan, honey syrup poured over, cut in 
pieces to serve. Rose Jam— Many tons’ weight of 
rose leaves, gathered and packed while they are 
freshly fallen, are converted into rose jam, one of the 
exquisite conserves which under the generic name of 
dulchatz , are so admirably confected in Turkey, 
Greece, and Roumania, and constitute a leading 
feature in the toothsome refection offered to the 
casual visitor in every well-to-do oriental house¬ 
hold. Rose jam, considered as a sweetmeat, is far 
superior in flavor and savor to Rahat Lakoum , and 
to the somewhat cloying preparations of angelica 
for which certain Stamboul confectioners are justly 
famous. It is by no means sickljq or even insipid, 
as those delicacies unquestionably are, but is char¬ 
acterized by an after taste no less brisk and refresh¬ 
ing than that of the black cherry dulchatz , paragon 
of all Turkish sweets. Arab Gartronomy —The 
silk-clad merchants one encounters in the bazars of 
Damascus and Bagdad are capital judges of a good 
dinner. If western gourmets are ignorant of the 
haute cuisine of the Arabs it is owing to the circum¬ 
stance that invitations to dinner are rarely given to 
strangers, whom true believers regard as unclean. 
In a vague way it is understood that kebabs and 
pilau are not reckoned as high-class cookery among 
the natives. Some few, perhaps, have heard or 
read of the much esteemed Samytah , a puree of 
cream, dates, and starch; the Therid , a soup of olive 
oil, vinegar, eggs and bread; the tasty Sikbaj, or 
beef stew; and the golden Judabah, sugared rice 
swimming in chicken fat. But the dainty dishes of 
the Arab epicure, the appetite-enticing wast, the 
delicious sanbusaj, the leafy qutaij, and the honeyed 
luzinyeh , are dainties of which the outer infidel 
world knows nothing. Sikbaj —A stew of sheep’s 
heads. This is esteemed one of the greatest 
triumphs of cookery and the test of a cook’s excel¬ 
lence. The heads are scraped, the ears left on and 
filled with flavored forcemeat; they are then braised 
and served with a sauce of olive oil and vinegar. 
More than one good Moslem owes his death to a 
surfeit of this dainty. Another esteemed prepara¬ 
tion is Qarid —A fish stew. The fish is chopped 
and gently stewed in butter, balls of minced liver 
and vegetables are thrown in, and the whole taken 
to table with a sauce made of vinegar, capers, mus¬ 
tard, rue, cumin and celery. Tongues, livers and 
roes of rare and expensive fish are added to enhance 
the flavor and cost of this dainty. Wast —A species 
of sandwich which is supposed to sharpen the ap¬ 
petite. Slices of bread are spread with white chicken 
mea-t, grape syrup is poured round it, and the sur¬ 
face is spread with almonds, olives, cheese, and 
chopped eggs. Wast comes, according to the Arab 
usages, immediately after such light entrees as 







388 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


ORI 

tardynah and sanbtisaj. The latter is a cross be¬ 
tween a ragout and a patty, being- one of the choic¬ 
est delicacies known to eastern epicures. Esahaq, 
a famous oracle of the kitchen, bequeathed to his 
countrymen the recipe for sanbusaf. It is a timbale 
filled with a paste of pounded cabbage, meat, fat, 
onions and spices. Turkish Sausages —The intes¬ 
tines of sheep filled with a composition of rice-flour, 
chopped meat, and almonds, and formed into a kind 
of knotted tripe, are also much esteemed by Arab 
gourmands; and it may take a little of the conceit 
out of Scotchmen who regard haggis as a special 
product of Caledonia, to learn that it is an imme¬ 
morial delicacy of the East. Arab Sweets —In 
the shape of sweets (of which, as everyone knows, 
all Orientals are inordinately fond), there are two 
confections which grace ever}' gourmand’s dinner 
table. They are the luzinyeh , or almond cakes, 
“distilling tears of sugar and butter,” and qutaif\ 
or pancakes. These are served, as in the West, to¬ 
wards the end of the dinner, after a course of “ap¬ 
petizers.” Arab Hors d’CEuvres —Such as sharp 
cheese, spiced vinegar, red eggs and olives, pickled 
fish and asparagus in oil. Luzinyeh —Same as the 
Balaklava cakes of the Turks and Greeks. The 
luzinyeh consists of thin shells of pastry-the thin¬ 
ness of the dough being the point upon which epi¬ 
cures insist—containing a rich stuffing of almonds 
and sweet flavoring. They are served swimming 
in a sauce of melted butter and honey. For a thou¬ 
sand years they have been deemed one of the great¬ 
est delicacies of the kitchen. Ahmed Ibn Yahye 
says of them: 

“Appetite cannot so close its portals 
But the approach of this dish unlocks them.” 

For all that, qutaif (the ekmek kataif of the Turks) 
runs the luzinyeh very close. The qutaif, or pan¬ 
cakes, are -thin and leafy, fried in almond oil; and 
are served up humid with “the oil ozingfrom them” 
and a rich syrup “in which they sink and swim,” 
and covered with rose-water. Cold water is not 
greatly in request among eastern lovers of good 
cheer. The beverage of the Arab epicure is dushab, 
a mixture of nebidh (date-water) and dibs (wine juice 
reduced to a very thick and luscious syrup). From 
time immemorial this has been the favorite drink of 
the Bagdad .gourmands. Persian Fare— ‘‘One of 
the most interesting Oriental meals I remember 
taking was with Ali Khan, the Governor of Khoi, 
a city of western Persia. The dinner was served 
on a cloth spread on the floor. The Governor and 
his councellors, grave and dignified old Persians in 
flowing silk gowns and henna-stained beards, 
squatted cross-legged around the edge of the cloth. 
Heaping dishes of rice pilaf, some dyed crimson 
and some yellow, occupied the center, heaps of flat, 
thin sheets of bread, boiled mutton, bayaar kabobs, 
pastry of sweetened rice-flour, melons, fruit and 
bowls of iced sherbet. Each Persian had one of 
the thin sheets of bread spread out before him for a 
plate; bending over these they scooped up small 


ORN 

handfuls of pilaf from the nearest dish, and, rolling 
it into sizable balls, tossed them dexterously into 
their mouths. An act of courtesy would be to ferret 
out some dainty tit-bit of mutton from the dish and 
place it on one’s next neighbor’s sheet of bread. 
No knife, nor fork, nor spoon, nor implement of 
any kind, was on the table beside the dishes save a 
porcelain ladle to fill glasses with sherbet from the 
bowl. The thin, pliable sheets of bread were used 
to wipe the finger-tips after handling the greasy 
mutton, and occasionally a small piece would be 
torn off and eaten.” How the Arabs Carve— 
The Arabs know how to carve a fowl without hav¬ 
ing the bird migrate all over the table and finally 
land in the lap of one of the diners. Five Arabs, 
seat themselves around a large bowl of rice sur¬ 
mounted by a fowl. Two seize the wings with 
their fingers and two the legs, and simultaneously 
tearing these off leave the carcass to the fifth. It is 
probable that they draw lots for the honor of being 
the fifth. It must be a bad omen to have six men at 
the table when a fowl is carved in this fashion— 
that is, bad for the sixth man if he is fond of fowl. 

ORMERS — Specialty. Shell-fish found on the 
Florida as well as the French coasts. “Wot you of 
ormers, a shell-fish, known popularly as ‘Venus* 
ears,’ from the shape and mother-of-pearl beauty of 
them? They are only to be found at very low tides, 
and are out of season from June to September. 
Choose those of medium size, lay them in salt and 
water, beat them well, add season according to taste. 
Stew for 2 hours in Bechamel sauce—if preferred in 
brown sauce, dip first in flour; if fried, dip in flour. 
They are extremely good curried, but they always 
require a long time to cook. The flavor resembles 
something dainty, between very delicate veal and 
Ai oysters. I will stake my reputation as a gourmet 
on this dish.” 

ORNAMENTED CAKE— 



See Icing Cakes, Icing Tubes, Gum Paste. 


ORONGE—A sort of large, flat, orange colored 
and delicious mushroom which grows on the bark 
of trees, very abundant in southern Europe. Is put 
up in cans in oil, like cepes. Oronges a la Borde- 













THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


389 


ORT 

laise —Same way as cepes, which see. Urbain Du¬ 
bois’ t irst Taste —“As I looked around I observed 
a large open basket full of mushrooms of a peculiar 
kind quite unknown to me. I was taking stock of 
the contents of his basket, when the boy, noticing 
my curiosity, asked me to taste his merchandise. 
‘What do you call this?’ I asked. ‘Cocons,’ an¬ 
swered the boy. 1 was not much the wiser, so I put 
further questions to the lad, who explained to me 
that these ‘cocons’ were young unopened oronges. 
‘How do you eat them in this country?’ said I. ‘Oh, 
it is very simple.’ Then taking one of the cocons he 
wiped it well with a piece of paper, broke it in two, 
gave a hearty bite to one of the pieces, and handed 
me the other half, saying: ‘Taste it sir; do as I do.’ 
Without hesitation I followed his example. ‘You 
are right,’ said I to the young man, ‘it is more than 
good, it is excellent.’ And I bought the whole of 
the contents of his basket.” (See Salads, Savoie.) 

ORTOLAN — A famous luxury of ancient and 
modern epicures, concerning which there are more 
stories of reckless expenditure and extravagance 
told than of any other rare dainty whatever not ex¬ 
cepting even the truffle. The ortolan is a small bird 
comparable to the rice bird of America; its home is 
Italy, France and southern Europe generally. The 
scarcity of the bird as compared with the demand 
gives it prominence as a most expensive morsel.— 
Ortolans Among the Romans — Soyer says: 
“Florence and Bologna sent to Rome cases of orto¬ 
lans, the enormous price of which irritated instead 
of discouraging gluttony. They arrived in the me¬ 
tropolis of the world, picked and separated one from 
the other by layers of flour to prevent decomposition. 
Each of these little birds furnish only a mouthful; 
but this incomparable mouthful eclipsed everything 
else, and produced a sort of epicurean ecstasy which 
may be called the transceudanla/ism of gastron¬ 
omy.” Ortolans and Quails —“At this time of 
year the caterer must perforce meet the appetite of 
his epicurean customers for ‘winged game’ by plac¬ 
ing on menu ortolans and quails. The former delici¬ 
ous little birds — ‘lumps of delight,’ as some en¬ 
thusiastic gourmet has described them—are too 
expensive for ordinary diners, and the quail is the 
only really popular game substitute.” Plow to 
Kill an Ortolan —“Ortolans should not be killed 
with violence, like other birds, as this might crush 
and bruise the delicate flesh—to avoid which the usual 
mode is to plunge the head of the ortolan into a glass 
of brandy.” Ortolans Broiled in Cases —“Hav¬ 
ing picked the bird of its feathers, singe it, cut off 
the beak and ends of the feet, but do not draw it; 
put it into a paper case soaked in olive-oil, and broil 
it over a slow fire—charcoal or slack cinders—and in 
a few minutes the ortolan will swim in its own fat 
and be cooked. Some epicures wrap each bird in a 
vine leaf.” Ortolans a la Royale —“One of the 
dishes for the supper-table, upon the occasion of a 
grand ball given by Sir Julian Goldsmid on the 15th 
of June last. Everything was carried out upon the 


OXF 

most magnificent scale; the table decorations were 
elaborate and beautiful, and the service was all in 
gold!” — “Bone the ortolans; fill them with a puree 
of foie gras incorporated with a little chicken force¬ 
meat. Next roll each bird in a leaf of buttered paper, 
and poach them in an oven. When cold, the paper 
should be removed, each ortolan carefully trimmed, 
and the whole covered neatly with a brown chaud- 
froid sauce, flavored with an extract prepared from 
bones of the birds.” Ortolans Roasted —The 
birds trussed without drawing them. First a vine- 
leaf and then a slice of bacon laid over the breast of 
each and tied on with a sti-ing. Roasted at quick 
fire in about 25 minutes; served on toast with their 
own gravy, and orange sauce aside. Ortolans in 
Truffles —Large truffles with part of the inside re¬ 
moved and an ortolan placed inside; in a saucepan 
with slices of bacon, and wine, etc.; served in the 
truffles on toast, with sauce made of the essence in 
the saucepan. Ortolans a la Perigourdine— 
Name of the dish of ortolans in truffles. 

OSEILLE (Fr.)—Sorrel. A green herb used as 
greens and in soup. Puree d’Oseille — Sorrei 
soup. 

OSWEGO PUDDING — Corn-starch pudding 
meringued and baked. Made of 1 qt. milk, 4 oz. 
starch, 3 oz. sugar, 2 oz. butter, 6 yolks; cooked up 
1 like thick boiled custard; jelly spread over top in 
baking pan; whipped whites with sugar on top. 

OWL—“ M. le Blanc was once chief cook to a 
Parisian nobleman. For days before Christmas he 
treated his guests to mouth-watering descriptions of 
‘ ze magnifique dinnair on ze Chrisemas day in La 
Belle France.’ A few days before Christmas he be¬ 
came very mysterious, and intimated that those for¬ 
tunate mortals who sat at his board should also have 
a ‘ magnifique dinnair.’ Accordingly anticipations 
ran high. The day at last arrived. His promises 
were fulfilled. The table was spread with an em¬ 
barrassment of good things. One dish was a special 
favorite, to the undisguised delight of the cuisinier. 
It seemed a species of game, was delicately flavored, 
but no one knew exactly what it was. ‘Oh, mon¬ 
sieur, do tell us what this delicious dish is,’ said a 
young and pretty guest, when the dish was demol¬ 
ished. ‘ Zat, madam, zat eis ze grand triumph of ze 
art. Only ze Frenchmen mek ze delicious deesh—zet 
ees ze vat you call ze owl—ze pet owl.’ ‘Owl!’ ex¬ 
claimed a chorus of voices, and a dozen wry faces 
were made. ‘Oh, monsieur, how could you have 
the heart to kill the poor thing?’ chirped the fair in¬ 
quirer. ‘It ees you zat mek ze cruel accusations, 
madam. I no keel him—he die.’ ” 

OX-CHEEK—The meat of an ox-head. It is 
cooked in various ways, the same as beef, and in 
soups. 

OXFORD SAUSAGES—Specialty; made as fol¬ 
lows: Take 1 y 2 lbs. of pig-meat cut without any 
skin, % lb. of veal, and ij4 lbs. beef-suet; mince 
these meats separately, very finely; then mix them, 







390 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


OXG 

with a dessertspoonful of dried, powdered, and sifted 
sage; pepper and salt to taste; and the well-beaten 
yolks and whites of 5 eggs. The whole should be 
well beaten together, as much depends upon the 
mixing. Made into flattened balls and fried. 

OX-GALL—Used for cleaning carpets. Can be 
obtained of the butchers. 

OX-HEART—Steeped in acidulated water it is 
afterwards cooked in slices in various ways, or 
boiled and then stuffed with goose stuffing and 
baked. 

OX-PALATES—Cooked in many ways the same 
as sweetbreads. They are fiist steeped and washed, 
then scalded or parboiled, and the white horny skin 
peeled off; after boiled for 2 or 3 hours until tender. 
Ox-Palate Croquettes— Palates cooked tender, 
out up extremely small, mixed in thick sauce with 
the usual croquette seasonings, shaped when cold, 
breaded and fried. Ox-Palates a la IIorly— Cut 
to shape, run on skewers, breaded, fried; served 
with sauce and croutons. Palais de Bceuf a la 
Robert —Palates cut in pieces served with Robert 
sauce. Palais de Bceuf a la Ravigote —Ox- 
palates cooked, cut in pieces, coated with white 
sauce, breaded, fried; served with Ravigote sauce. 
Palais de Bceuf a la Vivandiere —Same prepar¬ 
ation as the preceding; served in a brown sauce with 
■onions, butter, port wine, parsley. (See Soups.) 

OX-TAILS—Divided in short pieces, steeped in 
cold water, they are then stewed for several hours to 
dissolve the mucilaginous substance that surrounds 
the bone, and dressed in various ways, but princi¬ 
pally in soup. Haricot of Ox-Tails —Pieces first 
browned in a frying pan with fat and onions, then 
stewed in same pan with water for 3 hours, assorted 
vegetables added, seasoned, thickened; served with 
the vegetables and potatoes. Ox-Tail Soup Thick- 
Good beef stock, a haricot stew like the preceding 
added to it, the pieces of ox-tail and vegetables 
served in the plates. Ox-Tail Soup Clear —Clear 
consomme, neat pieces of ox-tail free from bone, and 
different-colored vegetables in lozenge shapes served 
in the plates with it. Ox-Tail Soup with Barley- 
And with macaroni, etc., see Soups. 

OYSTER— Oyster Quotations for Menus— 

•“ The man had sure a palate covered o’er 

With brass or steel, that on the rocky shore 

First broke the oozy oyster’s pearly coat, 

And risked the living morsel down his throat.” 

“An oyster, sir, is one of the elements of social ex¬ 
istence, a delicacy of no age, sex, or condition, but 
patent to the universal family of man. Good in a 
scallop, better in a stew, “best of all in the shell; 
good in pickle, in curry, in sauce; good at luncheon, 
before dinner, at supper; good to entertain a friend; 
good to eat by yourself; good when you are hungry; 
good, moreover, when you are not.”—“The Greeks, 
who were the most aesthetical of feeders, had them 
•opened at table, and ate them ‘out of hand.’ ‘ They 
Lnew as well as we do that to lay an oyster on a dish, 


OYS 

no matter for how short a time, diminished its piq¬ 
uancy. Always insist on one point—that the dainty 
morsel is opened on the deep shell, so as to preserve 
every drop of the liquor. This done, the American 
asks only crackers, butter, a slice of lemon, and the 
pepper cruet. The Englishman would put aside the 
lemon and crackers, and ask for brown bread and a 
few blades of crisp white celery. As regards the 
size of oysters, I take it that those are best which 
need no cutting; two bites to an oyster is as inad¬ 
missible as two bites to a cherry.” — “An oyster 
dinner was given in Baltimore the other night, and 
only oysters were served in eight courses, beginning 
with raw and ending with a pudding of oysters, crabs 
and chopped celery that is said to have been very 
nice.” Oysters Out of Season— “The reason why 
oysters are procurable in London all the year round 
is, that certain varieties, when transferred from their 
original native homes to artificial beds, are so dis¬ 
turbed that they cease to breed, and are consequently 
fit for consumption at any time.” Forcing Oys¬ 
ters —“One of its most remarkable features appears 
to be the peculiar process adopted for ‘ forcing.’ 
This consists in placing the young oysters into so- 
called ‘ambulances,’ that is, boxes with wooden 
sides and tops and bottoms covered with galvanized 
wire, the boxes being fixed about a quarter of a yard 
above the ground. The oysters in these boxes grow, 
we are told, about twice as rapidly as others which 
are merely placed in the ‘beds.’” Oysters as 
Brain Food —“In some of the lower counties, down 
the Chesapeake Bay, oysters pass as current money, 
and in one town which boasts of a weekly newspaper 
a large percentage of its readers pay their subscrip¬ 
tions to it in oysters; thus the editor receives from 
150 to 200 bushels of oysters yearly, which he is 
forced to consume in his own family; and, as oys¬ 
ters are declared by the faculty to be most efficaci¬ 
ous in producing and increasing brain power, it is to 
be hoped that the subscribers to that journal get 
good value for their oysters.” Pickled Oysters— 
“Pickled oysters, which years ago were a standard 
dish at receptions and parties, and then were neg¬ 
lected, have come into gastronomic fashion again.” 
Broiled in the Shell —“If oysters are to be 
cooked, a homely excellent way is to lay the shells 
on the gridiron, and as soon as they open put into 
each a bit of butter and a dust of cayenne. The 
French open the shells first, put over the oyster in 
the deep shell a little maitre d’hotel sauce, then lay 
it on the gridiron, and serve the moment the liquor 
boils. Americans are as original in oyster stews as 
in everything else. Almost every family has its own 
recipe, to which it adheres with an unshakable loy¬ 
alty.” Frying in Oil —Oysters fried in oil were in¬ 
troduced by the late noted Philadelphia restaurateur 
Minico Finelli, an Italian by birth. People who vis¬ 
ited Philadelphia always made it a point to go to his 
restaurant to enjoy this specialty. They were deli¬ 
cious and delicate, beautifully brown, and without a 
suspicion of grease. Philadelphia Broiled Oys- 










THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


391 


OYS 

ters —Hot oyster liquor prepared first by boiling, 
skimming, adding butter, salt, cayenne. Large oys¬ 
ters laid side by side in a greasedjlouble-wire broiler, 
broiled on both sides over very hot fire, then thrown 
into the oyster liquor. Served with toast aside.— 
Philadelphia Panned Oysters— Oysters washed 
in cold water and drained; thrown dry into a hot 
frying pan and shaken about till they boil; butter, 
salt, and pepper added. Served in hot dish.— 
Plain Broiled Oysters on Toast — Take the 
largest oysters obtainable; brush the wire oyster- 
broiler with softened butter, lay in the oysters and 
broil over a hot fire 2 or 3 minutes, basting once on 
•each side with the butter brush. Dish side by side 
on one long slice of buttered toast in a dish. Gar¬ 
nish with lemon and parsley. Scalloped Oysters 
“‘At a prominent restaurant the other day we asked 
for some scalloped oysters. Fancy our disappoint¬ 
ment to have served to us a sort of fricassee of oys¬ 
ters. To be sure, it was served in a beautiful silver 
< 3 ish like a scallop shell, and it wasn’t a bad kind of 
a dish, but it wasn’t old-fashioned scalloped oys¬ 
ters, so easily made and so toothsome to the palate. 
If they had made them after this rule I know they 
would have been good: Roll fine 1 lb. of soda 
crackers; put a thin layer of this in the bottom of a 
Baking-dish; wet the cracker with the liquor of the 
oyster. If you are not using shell oysters, wash 
the oysters first and let them stand in a pint of clear, 
fresh water for half an hour, then use this and milk 
for the wetting. In the layer of crumbs place a 
layer of oysters, well seasoned with salt, pepper, 
and small bits of butter. On this another layer of 
bread-crumbs, wet again with the milk and liquor. 
Then again a layer of oysters, seasoned as before. 
Repeat this until the oysters are all used. A layer 
of crumbs should be the last as well as the first, and 
should be thickly sprinkled with bits of butter. Just 
before putting in the oven pour over nearly a cup 
of milk. Bake to a light, crisp brown, and serve 
instantly.” Devilled Oysters — See Devilled. 
Huitres Farcies dans leur Coquilles —Speci¬ 
alty mentioned as forming part of the Le Conseil 
[judiciaire dejeuner : Put a dozen fat oysters into a 
saucepan. When the liquor is about to boil, place 
them on a strainer and strain off water. Take this 
water and boil it with bread-crumbs and a glass of 
cream until the bread is thoroughly dried up; then 
place it in a mortar with butter, parsley, minced 
shallots, pepper, and the yolks of 4 eggs. Work all 
these ingredients well together with a pestle. Put 
this stuffing into the oyster-shells, with an oyster in 
the middle of each, and cover each oyster over with 
the same farce. Cover same with bread-crumbs and 
bake in oven, serving very hot.” California Pep¬ 
per Roast— Specialty. Oysters in baking plate 
dredged with Mexican ground sweet pepper, salt and 
butter; baked in top of very hot oven. Spanish sauce 
made of oyster-liquor, chopped chillies and tomatoes 
ready in a hot dish, oysters slipped into it right side 
up. Steamed Oysters— Get a wire basket, fill it 


OYS 

with oysters in the shell, and immerse in a vessel of 
boiling water which is deep enough to completely 
cover the basket of oysters. They are done almost 
immediately, and must be opened into a hot dish con¬ 
taining melted butter, pepper, and salt. Oyster 
Sausages —Take lb. lean mutton, % lb. beef suet, 

Yz lb. oysters scalded and with their beards taken off. 
Chop all up together, add the yolks of 2 eggs, sea¬ 
son with salt and pepper, and make up in the form 
of sausages, frying lightly in the usual way. Oys¬ 
ter Croquettes —Oysters scalded and cut, mixed 
with soaked crackers, chopped veal, butter, eggs, 
onion juice; shaped like sausages, breaded, fried. 
Oyster Potato Balls —Potato-croquette prepara¬ 
tion with yolks in it, and chopped oysters added; 
balled, egged, breaded, fried. Oyster Kromes- 
kies— Oysters cut up in thick sauce made of their 
liquor, butter and flour, parsley and lemon juice; 
when cold and firm enough to handle, rolled to shape 
of bottle corks, each one rolled up in thin shaving of 
boiled fat bacon, dipped in batter, fried. Roasted 
Oysters —In the shells; placed amongst hot coals, 
or in a very hot oven; served in the deep shell with 
spoonful of butter poured over, and toast aside. 
Fried Oysters —Dipped in cracker dust, then in 
egg, then in cracker dust again, dropped a few at a 
time in hot lard, fried 4 or 5 minutes. Stewed Oys¬ 
ters —Oysters and their liquor boiled one minute; 
boiling cream in another saucepan added with sale, 
pepper and butter to the oysters. Fancy Stew— 
The above with a square of toast in a bowl, oysters 
on the toast which floats in the cream. Oysters a 
la Tartare —Oysters scalded and cold served with 
tartar sauce. Huitres a la Villeroi —Large oys¬ 
ters, each coated with Villeroi sauce, bread-crumbed 
and fried. Huitres en PARiLLOTES-Oysters rolled 
in oval-shaped pieces of a paste made of mashed po¬ 
tatoes, flour and butter, and baked. Huitres a la 
Diable— Broiled oysters with butter, lemon juice, 
and cayenne. Huitres au Parmesan— Oysters in 
pan with little wine, chopped parsley, bread-crumbs, 
Parmesan cheese and bits of butter on top; browned. 
Andouillettes aux Huitres —Oyster sausages. 
Croutes aux Huitres —Oysters, pounded with 
cream and spread on small pieces of toast. Ris¬ 
soles aux Huitres —Same preparation as for cro¬ 
quettes or kromeskies, rolled up in thin puff-paste 
and fried. Bouchees aux Huitres —Small oyster- 
patties. Petits Pains aux Huitres —Small oyster- 
loaves; rolls fried outside, inside hollowed and filled 
with stewed oysters. Fried Oysters a la For¬ 
tress Monroe —Drained, dusted with red pepper, 
rolled in cracker dust, dipped in egg mixed with 
whipped cream, then in fine white bread-crumbs; 
fried. Salted, served with lemon and parsley.— 
Fricasseed Oysters— Oysters boiled 2 minutes, 
liquor strained, thickened with flour and butter and 
yolks; oysters have sauce poured over them. Baked 
Oysters a la Duxelles— Fricasseed oysters with 
mushrooms added, with cracker dust on top, browned 
in the oven. Oysters a la Milanaise— Cooked 







392 


TIIE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


OYS 

macaroni with oysters in alternate layers, yellow 
sauce poured in, cracker dust on top; browned in 
the oven. Oyster Catsup— Pounded oysters with 
their liquor, salt, spices; heated to a boil, little plain 
proof spirit added; bottled. Oyster Stuffing— 
Oysters mixed with bread and crackers with butter, 
etc., to stuff fowls with. Oyster Sauce —See 
Sauces. Oyster Soup —See Soups. Curried Oys¬ 
ters —Are put up in cans, same as the familiar 
canned plain oysters. Oysters, English Native— 



The cut shows the shape of this oyster which the 
English claim is the best for eating from the shell. 
The difference in form of shell from the American 
oyster can be seen by reference to the cut of “ Blue 
Point,” on page 254. 

OYSTER-PL AZNT-Salsify, Scorzonera. A white 
root with the taste of oysters. Grows to about the 
thickness of a finger. Is best after frost in the spring 
of the year. Stewed Oyster-Plant — Scraped, 
boiled in water containing a little vinegar, salt, and 
flour to slightly whiten it; when tender, cut in short 
pieces in \Vhite sauce. Fried Oy’STer-Plant— 
Boiled, cut in lengths, dipped in batter, fried like 
fritters. Oyster-Plant Fritters —Boiled tender, 
mashed, stirred up Yvith egg, little flour, butter, salt, 
pepper; spoonfuls dropped in hot lard. Salsifis a 
la Creme —Boiled, cut in pieces in cream sauce. 
Salsifis a la Moelle— Oyster-plant boiled, cut up 
and stewed in brown sauce; served on toast spread 
with hot beef-marrow. Salsifis a la Poulette— 
In yellow sauce thickened with 3'olks, and mush¬ 
rooms added. Beignets de Salsifis —Fritters of 
oyster-plant. 

P. 

PAILLES AU PARMESAN — Cheese straws. 
Although called straws the paste is better looking 
and better to bake if cut with a paste cutter into 
strips %-inch wide. Equal quantities of butter, 
cheese and flour are pounded together to make it, 
but one or two yolks and a sprinkling of water im¬ 
proves it. 

PAIN (Fr.)—Bread. Petits PAiNS-Small loaves, 
rolls. Pains de la Mecque —Mecca-loaves, cream 
puffs. Pain de Foie de V eau— Mould or loaf of liver 


PAN 

paste. Pain de Perdreaux —Mould or loaf of 
puree of partridge. Pain d’Ahricots—A mould of 
apricot cheese. Pain de Pomme a la Russe —A. 
mould of apple marmalade with whipped cream in 
the center and currant jelly round. Pain is the 
equivalent of English cheese in head-cheese, liver- 
cheese, etc. “Very excellentyW//.? or cremes can 
be made of purees of delicate meats, fish and vege¬ 
tables— creme de Ziomard , creme de crevettes, creme 
d’artichauts,pain degibier, etc. If required to be 



HOLLOW BORDER MOULD, 
for Pains de Volaille Aspics, Jelly Salads, etc. 

served hot, the contents of the mould must be 
steamed like a pudding, the cream being stirred into 
the custard in the first instance.” “ Little cakes 
made out of rye-flour and abundant currants are 
very popular in Paris. These pains de seigle , as 
they are called, are sold by all the bakers.” Petits 
Pains a la Fiancee —Rich nut cakes made of 10 
oz. hazel nuts pounded with cream, 10 oz. sugar, 2 
oz. butter, iS yolks, S oz. rice flour. Baked in sheets 
on paper, cut in diamonds glazed and iced. 

PALAIS DE BCEUF (Fr.)—Ox-palate. 

PANADA—Bread soaked in milk or water and 
squeezed dry. It is used in making stuffing, quen¬ 
elles, forcemeats, puddings. 

PANCAKE—The pancake is the oldest form of 
bread and there are remains of ancient ceremonies 
and popular customs in regard to it still observed in 
some places of which the original significance is 
now unknown. In Catholic communities and coun¬ 
tries which formerly were Catholic the custom is 
observed of eating pancakes on Shrove Tuesday, 
which is at the beginning of Lent. It is a pancake 
feast in which everybody joins, the French perhaps 
keeping up the observance with the greatest vigor. 

PANCAKE PARTIES—“This reminds one that 
last year pancake parties were all the go at the 
fashionable seaside places in France. At Etretat 
especially it became quite a mania. The pancake 
batter was brought on the beach ready mixed in a 
jar, and a small portable charcoal stove was erected 
in a sheltered corner against the rocky shore. The 
other indispensable components of the pancake, such 
as sugar, lemon, and butter, were also brought in a 
hand-basket, as well as bottles of cider, the only 
beverage allowed. It was rather an amusing .sight 
























































THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


303 


PAN 

to watch a group of elegantly dressed people sitting 
on the beach around a gentleman in shirt sleeves 
with a white apron before him, handling the frying- 
pan amidst the jokes and chaffing of the audience; 
and bets were often made as to the tossing abilities 
of the amateur cuisinier. It often happened that 
when the pan was handled by an inexperienced or 
nervous person, the unfortunate pancake was tossed 
up so awkwardly that it dropped half cooked into 
the cinders, to the merriment of all present. It is 
not everyone who knows how to toss a pancake 
properly. The process looks simple enough, but it 
is by no means so easy as it appears. In fact, it re¬ 
quires much skill and practice to perform the feat 
with success.” American Pancakes— The pan¬ 
cake has become thoroughly domesticated in Amer¬ 
ica in the form of batter-cakes, which many people 
eat twice a day the year round, a habit which seems 
to be peculiarly American and not indulged in any¬ 
where else in the world. It follows that we have 
•several varieties of pancakes and an easier and more 
rapid way of cooking them than in a frying pan one 
at a time, for we have a griddle which will bake a 
dozen or two at once or fry them in grease as well 
as a small frying pan. The chief difference between 
the American wheat flour batter cake and the French 
pancake is, that the former is (generally) made 
light with some raising material, the French cake is 
but plain batter which would be tough if the cakes 
were not so very thin. English Pancakes— The 
English mix their pancakes with ale and give them 
time to rise, for ale acts the same as yeast and their 
pancakes are light in consequence. Hence the dif¬ 
ference in form. The English pancake is not rolled 
up, being through its light texture somewhat too 
thick to roll well, but is sent in hot from the pan, 
dredged with fine sugar and sprinkled with lemon 
juice. French Pancakes— The French pancake 
is baked thin as paper; is spread with some sweet 
preparation, rolled up like an omelet, the ends cut 
off; a number are baked in advance, placed on a 
dish, sugared over and the top glazed by melting 
the sugar in the top of a hot oven or by holding a 
red hot iron close to it. This is the French pancake 
which becomes familiar to hotel guests as the sweet 
entremet French pancakes with jelly.” Pancake 
Batter, American —S oz. flour, 2 teaspoons baking 
powder, 1 egg, 1 tablespoon sugar, y 2 teaspoon salt» 
1% cups milk or cream, 1 tablespoon melted butter or 
lard beaten in. German Pancakes— A regular 
article of sale at the restaurants by this name is a 
pancake J4 inch thick, baked as usual in a frying 
pan but requiring considerable time. The batter is 
made as for light American pancakes. Eaten with 
butter and sugar or syrup. Pancake Batter, 
English — y 2 pt ale, % pt water, 6 yolks, little salt, 
about 1 pt flour, 1 glass brandy. Pancake Batter, 
French— 4 oz. flour, 4 eggs, little grated lemon peel, 
salt, y 2 pt cream, y 2 pt milk. To be baked very thin 
in the pan, turned over, spread with jelly or marma¬ 
lade, sugar on top. Swiss Pancakes —6 eggs, 6 


PAP 

oz. flour, 1 qt milk, salt. Eggs to be whipped light, 
all made into smooth batter like thick cream. When 
in the pan some currants shaken in, not rolled but 
served with sugar dredged over. Danish Pan¬ 
cakes —Made small and thin, spread with puree of 
chestnuts, doubled over in half, sugar on top, 
glazed, served with apple sauce and cream. Pan¬ 
cake Souffles —Plain, thin pancakes are baked 
and spread with frangipane pastry cream in which 
some whipped whites has been mixed. The pile of 
cakes then baked in the oven are served while light 
and hot. Potato Pancakes— An excellent sup¬ 
per-dish. Grate a dozen medium-sized peeled po¬ 
tatoes. Add the yolks of three eggs, a heaping 
tablespoonful of flour, with a large teaspoonful of 
salt, and lastly the whites of the three eggs beaten 
stiff, and thoroughly incorporated with the potatoes. 
Fry the cakes in butter and lard (equal parts) until 
they are brown. Pancakes with Peaches — 
Rolled up with peach preserves or fresh stewed 
peaches. Pancakes a la Mancelle— Spread with 
puree of chestnuts flavored with maraschino. Cre¬ 
pes aux Confitures —Pancakes spread with jelly 
or preserve and rolled. Crepes au Riz —Rice pan¬ 
cakes. (See Crepes.) 

PAON (Fr.)—Peacock. 

PAPER CASES — Little paper boats, cups or 
boxes in which dainty small fish or birds are baked 
in sauce, or souffles are baked instead of in cups, or 
ices are frozen and served. They can be bought 
ready made at confectioners’ supply stores; are of 
various fancy forms, crimped and fluted, and some 
are of the finest delicate rice-paper. Where these 
cannot be obtained sometimes there is a paper box 
maker who will furnish some of a plainer sort, 
the box machinery cutting the paper for cases in 
short order; but otherwise the cases can be made at 
home by clipping fine white paper to shape and 
pasting up the ends or sides. Thy should hold from 
y pt. to pt. according to use intended. 

PAPER FRILLS FOR CUTLETS—Paper cut 
in fringe and coiled in spirals around the bones of 
lamb or mutton cutlets to serve at party breakfasts. 
They can be bought by the gross cheaply. If to be 
made at home double a sheet of paper and clip the 
doubled edge to fine fringe, then move the other 
edges of the paper one lower than the other and the 
fringe will bow open, fasten so with paste, roll 
around a pencil, and the fringe paper will retain 
spring enough to coil around the bone. 

PAPER RUFFLES FOR HAMS—Same as the 
preceding, or larger size to place upon the shank 
bone of a decorated ham. 

PAPER NAPKINS—See 'Japanese . 

PAPER-SHELL ALMONDS—Soft-shell or Jor¬ 
dan almonds. 

PAPILLOTE, EN (Fr.)—In paper. Lamb and 
mutton chops in some styles are cooked in paper. 
White unruled paper is cut to the shape of a heart, 






394 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


PAR 

brushed with melted butter, the cutlet and sauce or 
forcemeat placed on one side, paper doubled over it, 
the edges fastened by pinching them up together 
and baked on a wire broiler. Some styles are finished 
by making gridiron marks on top of the papers and 
serving in the papers as if broiled; in others the 
papers are removed before serving. “ Pompadour 1 ’ 
and “ Maintenon” are among the paper-covered 
styles. 

PARMENTIER—A man remembered in connec¬ 
tion with the introduction of the potato in France, 
and who caused it to be adopted as food. The po¬ 
tato had been known %nd eaten in England and 
Spain for 150 years before but had been kept out of 
France by a popular prejudice. At the period of a 
famine of bread-stuffs Parmentier applied to the 
King, Louis XVI., who aided him, and by the ruse 
of guarding the precious field of potatoes, ostensi¬ 
bly, with soldiers, the populace were induced to 
steal them and a demand was thereby created and 
the potato was adopted into general use. He died 
in 1813. Potage Parmentier — Potato soup; a 
puree of potatoes with cream and butter. {See soups.) 

PARMESAN —Cheese. A kind of Italian cheese 
especially used for cooking purposes, and always in 
the grated form. It is mixed in everything denom¬ 
inated au Parmesan , Avhen if other kinds of cheese 
are used the name becomes au From age— which 
means any kind of cheese. Parmesan is directed to 
be served with all soups containing macaroni or 
other Italian pastes; it is found, however, in our 
hotels that the attempt is not often successful, the 
offer of grated cheese not always being taken in 
good part. This remarkable cheese has the proper¬ 
ty of keeping for an indefinite period, and growing 
as hard as a stone without losing aught of the deli¬ 
cacy of its flavor. It is not generally eaten as cheese, 
yet is very toothsome grated and mingled with but¬ 
ter into a paste to be spread on toast or biscuit. It 
can be bought ready grated in bottles at the Italian 
warehouses and fancy groceries and is used in that 
form at most American hotels. 

PARR—A fish, the young salmon. Up to the age 
of two years the salmon has dark markings and is 
without the silvery luster which is its characteristic 
when mature. 

PARSLEY—This well-nigh indispensable herb 
can be grown easily from the seed in a box in a cellar 
or in a garden corner; it can be propagated also by 
dividing the roots. Its flavor is mild but pleasant 
and especially suits fish, chicken and potatoes. The 
roots are better in soup than the leaves. The latter 
in the curly variety furnishes the most ornamental 
green garnish for many dishes. Chopped finely and 
squeezed dry by twisting in a towel it makes a green 
powder very much prized for dusting over white 
stews, etc., while the green juice expressed is use¬ 
ful for coloring sauces, making green butter and add - 
ing to the color of green pea soups. Parsley sweetens 
the breath and takes away the odor of onions, eaten 


PAR 

in potato salad, in which it is one of the principal 
ingredients. Fried Parsley—Is useful to garnisn. 
dishes of fowl, etc. Wash and thoroughly dry the 
parsley in a cloth, and fry it in boiling fat for a 
couple of minutes, or till it is crisp. Take it out 
with a slice; and dry before the fire. 

PARSNIP—A root like a carrot, nearly white; 
best in the spring atter being frozen in the ground. 
Boiled Parsnips —Generally eaten with boiled meat 
or fish. The parsnips pared, boiled about an hour 
in salted water, served in broth. Browned 
Parsnips —Split lengthwise, boiled, then browned 
in the oven with salt and fat from the roa^t pan. 
Fried Parsnips —(/)-Boiled, cut in slices, dipped 
in flour and browned in a frying pan. (2)-Slices 
(after boiling) egged and breaded, fried by immer¬ 
sion in hot fat. Parsnip Fritters —Mashed pars¬ 
nips with butter, pepper, salt, egg, little flour; soft 
mixture dropped by spoonfuls in hot fat. Parsnip 
CAKES-Same as above without eggs, in flats brown¬ 
ed in pan. Stewed Parsnips— Boiled, cut small 
in cream sauce. 

PARTRIDGE—The old bird confessedly has a 
much higher flavor than the young one but do what 
one may the cook will never obtain the delicacy and 
tenderness which are characteristic of the young" 
birds. The best way to prepare partridges in per¬ 
fection is to cook old and young together; the old 
birds to impart flavor, the young ones only to be 



PARTRIDGE—PERDREAU OR PERDRIX. 

served at the table in the first instance, the others to 
appear in other forms than roasted or boiled, as in 
salmis or soups. Perdrix aux Ciioux —Boiled 
partridge with cabbage. One of the national 
dishes of France. Two young and one old part¬ 
ridges in a stewpan with 3 or 4 heads of cabbage, 4 
sausages, 1 saveloy, % lb. parboiled bacon, parsley, 1 
qt.stock, 1 glass sherry; simmered an hour,young par¬ 
tridges taken out, cabbage, etc., cooked longer. Cab¬ 
bage pressed, chopped, placed on dish with sliced 
sausages and bacon as a border, partridges carved 
and piled in the middle, liquor remaining mixed with 
brown sauce poured over. Salmis de Perdreau a 
i.’Ancienne —If you wish for a salmis possessing 
all desirable qualities do not use the leavings from 
a previous day, but let the bird be roasted hour 
before dinner, cut it up while still warm and keep in 
a closed saucepan while sauce {fumet ) is made of 


* 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


395 


PAR 

the bones and trimmings with sherry, onion, thyme, 
y 2 a bay leaf, peppercorns and mushrooms and 
brown sauce. Boil down, strain and pour it over 
the cut up partridge. Roast Partridge —Young 
birds that have been hung a while, slice of bacon 
over the breast tied on, roasted in the oven about % 
hour. Served with game sauce like that with salmis 
or with jelly. Perdrix a la Catalane— Partridge 
browned on the outside in a pan with chopped ba¬ 
con, onion and aromatics, wine added, braised gent¬ 
ly. Raw ham cut in dice, a cupful of cloves of 
garlic previously parboiled and red pepper added. 
Broiled Partridges —May be served with poor 
man’s sauce and Indian pickle. Old partridges are 
only fit for stewing with cabbage, for stock broth, 
and glaze of game; but are too tough for anything 
else. Braised Partridges —Larded on the breasts, 
covered with buttered paper in a saucepan with veg¬ 
etables and aromatics, braised in own steam and 
liquor 2 hours. Stewed Partridges — Cut in 
joints, half fried, broth added, stewed tender, 
orange juice and littte of the peel, butter and flour 



BALLOTINES OF PARTRIDGES, 

Or any small birds on rice stand, jelly, truffle 
on top, etc. 

to thicken. Cotelettes de Perdreaux a la Bac¬ 
chante—B reasts of partridge flattened, a piece of 
bone or macaroni stuck in each, bread crumbed and 
fried, served with white game sauce with raisins, 
juice of grapes, etc. Filets de Perdreaux aux 
PET iTsLEGUMES-Breasts of roast partridges dressed 
in a crown with young onions, carrots and turnips, 
cut in shapes and glazed, and game sauce. Epi- 
gramme de Perdreaux aux Champignons— Two 
kinds of fillets. ( See Epigramme .) Perdreaux 
en Escalopes aux Truffes—T hin round or oval 
slices from the breast in a white game sauce with 
truffles. Chartreuse de Perdreaux—A n orna¬ 
mental mould of vegetables filled with larded and 
braised partridges, pieces of sausage, dice of bacon 
and jelly. (See Chartreuse.') Perdreaux en Souf - 
fle—P uree of roast partridges with cream, yolks, 


PAS 

• 

and whipped whites, baked in paper cases. Par¬ 
tridges a l’ Andalouse —Outside fried with but¬ 
ter and ham, espagnole, water, sherry, parsley, aro¬ 
matics, red pepper, all stewed together 40 minutes. 
Sauce strained. Boiled Partdidge with Celery 
—Boiled with salt pork and vegetables; puree of 
celery poured over. 

PARFAIT (Fr.)—Perfect; perfection. Applied 
to some kinds of sweets and to ices. Same as ex¬ 
cellent. (See Ices.) 

PASTE CUPS—Like the paper cases, but formed 
of paste, a'lmost as thin as paper, done by dipping 
an iron shape into pancake batter and holding the 
shape in hot fat until the thin coating of batter is 
fried and will come off. The shape or mould is like 
a small tumbler in shape, but may be of any other 
form; made of iron or copper, either solid or hollow, 
has a stout wire handle joined to the top to hold it 
by. If there is no shape to be had, a substitute is to 
use tin pattypans or shells, dip the outsides in bat¬ 
ter and drop them in hot lard, take off and dip again. 
Most depends on the batter, it must not have any 
raising or shortening in, but made same as French 
pancakes, with 3 eggs, 1 pt. milk and about 3 oz. 
flour. Oysters in Paste-Cups, or Caisses — 
Same as patties; oysters in either white or yellow 
sauce, sprig of parsley on top. Paste-Cups au 
Salpicon —Meat of any kind cut in very small dice, 
seasoned, mixed with mushrooms, parsley and 
white sauce; same as chicken patties. Compote of 
Fruits in Paste Cups —Dished like vol-au-vents. 

PASTE—Several kinds are made. Short Paste 
—The commonest only slightly shortened has % lb. 
of either suet, lard, or butter to a pound of flour. 
Next, for boiled dumplings, has lb. shortening to 
a pound of flour. Best, for pies and baked dump¬ 
lings and timbale linings, has % lb. shortening to 
the pound. Puff Short Paste — y lb. shortening 
to a pound of flour; % lb. of it rubbed in dry, like 
all short paste, remainder rolled in flakes like puff 
paste. Sweet Tart Paste —Short paste with little 
sugar and egg mixed in, for fruit tarts and cheese¬ 
cakes. Almond Paste —See Almonds. Nouilles 
Paste — See Nouilles. Gum Paste — See Gum. 
Puff Paste — Feuilletage. This singular and highly 
ornamental paste consists of layers of flour and 
water dough rolled to the extreme of thinness with 
alternate sheets of butter between. Suppose a sheet 
of dough made of plain flour and water only, spread 
out 1 inch thick; on top of that a similar sheet of 
butter % inch thick. The paste is folded over in 3, 
the butter in it keeping the layers of paste separate. 
When it is rolled flat again there will be 3 layers of 
dough where at first was only one. Fold in 3 again 
and there will be 9 sheets of dough in the same 
thickness; fold and roll the third time and there are 
27 sheets of dough; the fourth time produces Si lay¬ 
ers, the fifth time 243 layers in the inch, the sixth 
time 729, and then the paste is ready for use for 
some purposes; but to be at its best one more fold- 







396 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


PAS 

ing and doubling is required, which makes 2,187 
layers or sheets of paste to the inch. The art of 
making puff paste consists in keeping the butter in 
that state of firmness, yet pliable, that it will con¬ 
tinue to roll along with the paste and will keep the 
flakes evenly apart, otherwise the layers of dough 
either break or adhere to each other and the result 
is a failure. The rule is 1 lb. butter to 1 lb. flour 
and an ounce or two more to dust with; the ingre¬ 
dients must all be cold. Used for various fine pas¬ 
tries, tarts, open pies, patty cases, turnovers, etc. 
Hot Water Paste —For raised pies; is made of 

lb. melted butter to each pound of flour and % pt. 
water, butter and water both made hot and poured 
into the flour, then stirred up to stiff dough. (See 
Pies.) 

PASTILLAGE (Fr.)—Gum paste. 

PATATES (Fr.)—Sweet potatoes. 

PATISSERIE (Fr.)—Pastry. Patisserie d’A- 
mAndes A la Conde —Fancy shapes of puff paste 
covered with chopped almonds and sugar in large 
grains. Patisserie a la Tartine — Sandwiches 
of puff paste and jam. 

PATE (Fr.)—Paste and pie, especially the raised 
pie, of which the shell is formed in a mould and 
baked in it, and filled with meat or birds afterwards 
and baked a short time longer. 



PATE MELE—Mixed pate; a raised pie filled 
with several kinds of meat cut in small blocks, in¬ 
terspersed with mushrooms, almonds, pistachios, 
and small pickles, all solidified in the pic shell with 
jelly. To be eaten cold. The wall is short paste 
pressed into the pattern of the tin mould, which 
opens on hinges, the shell is then filled with flour 
and baked, then emptied, decorated with nouilles 
paste, filled, egged over and finished in the oven, 
and filled up finally with aspic jelly and wine 
through a hole in the lid. Pate d’Emince— Mince 
pie. Petits Pates de Volaille— Small chicken 
patties. Petits Pates a la Bourgeoise— Small 
patties filled with veal forcemeat. Petits Pates 
de Mouton — Small covered patties filled with 
minced mutton, brown sauce and chopped mush¬ 
rooms. Pate Chaud d’Agneau— Lamb pie, hot. 
Pate a la Leicestershire —A pork pie made as 
in the engraving. Pate Ciiaud de Lapereaux— 
Hot rabbit pie. Pates d’Italie— Italian pastes. 
Pate de Foie Gras— Liver paste. 


PEA 

PATTIES—Two distinct kinds are generally un¬ 
derstood by this term. (/) The puff paste shell or 
vol-au-vent, baked by itself, and the hollow middle 
filled afterwards. ( 2 ) Tiny pies made by lining 
patty-pans with short paste, filling with the oysters, 
chickens, etc., and covering with a top crust. The 
petits pates are generally of puff paste, without 
patty-pans; the smallest are called bouchees. Pat¬ 
ties de Creme de Volaille —“Make a puree of 
fowl, cooked in milk (no salt). Use the milk in 
passing the puree through the tammy; put the whole 
over the fire in a saucepan, with 2 tablespoonfuls of 
white vegetable soup; stir till the puree is quite 
thick, then season with salt. Have puff-paste cases 
ready, three parts fill with the puree; decorate the 
top with white of egg, whipped to a stiff foam, col¬ 
ored with saffron, spinach, cochineal, etc.; season 
with salt, and dry in the oven, but do not color. Set 
on stands, with lace-paper under the pastry, and a 
centre piece of flowers rising out of the middle of 
the stand.’ 

PAUTIETTES — Thin slices of meat st iffed, 
rolled up and cooked. The same which the English 
call meat-olives. Paupiettes de Veau —Slices cut 
from the fillet spread with forcemeat, rolled, and 
stewed with stock and wine. 

PAW-PAW—A wild fruit of the Middle States, 
shaped somewhat like a banana, but thicker. Grows 
on a tree of small dimensions, in bunches of 3 or 4. 
When ripe, it contains a yellowish pulp which re¬ 
sembles an over-ripe muskmelon in taste, and there 
are several seeds like broad beans. It is eaten by 
some, but not much sought after. 

PAYSANNE (a la )—In country style. 

PEACH—One of the choicest of American fruits; 
grows largest, choicest, and in greatest number of 
varieties. Delaware and California produce the 
most constant crops and control the canning busi¬ 
ness of the country. California canned peaches in 
syrup are the same as the compote peaches of 
French cookery and are ready for use when opened. 
Peaches and Cream —The fruit is pared, cut in 
small pieces, mixed with sugar and cream in a bowl, 
served with cake. If peaches are handsome it is ad¬ 
visable to serve them whole, as they present an ap¬ 
petizing appearance. Wipe them thoroughly, ar¬ 
range them neatly on a dish, and decorate with 
peach leaves. A border of the rose of Sharon (nar¬ 
cissus) presents a very pretty contrast. Peach 
Shortcake —Chopped free-stone peaches mixed 
with sugar spread between and on top of a split cake 
of plain short paste, or on round sheets of puff-paste 
baked separately. Eaten warm with cream. Broiled 
Peaches —Specialty. Halves of peaches stuck full 
of split almonds and peach kernels, dipped in pow¬ 
dered sugar, broiled in the double wire broiler, 
served hot, covered with scalded cream, orange- 
flavored, and croutons of sponge cakes fried in but¬ 
ter around in the dish. Peaches a la Windsor — 
Two halves of peeled peaches placed in natural 

















THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


397 


PEA 

form in a cup cut out of sponge cake, sugared over, 
glazed and cooked sufficiently in the oven; peach 
syrup with maraschino for sauce. Peach Char¬ 
lotte —See Apple Charlotte Peaches a la Conde 
—Halves of peaches on a bed of cooked rice, deco¬ 
rated with rice croquettes; marmalade, peach syrup 
and Madeira for sauce. Peaches a la Richelieu 
—Halves of peaches served on round sponge cakes 
dipped in kirschwasser syrup, garnished with mixed 
fruits, citron, etc., in the syrup. Suedoise of 
Peaches —A peach pyramid made of half peaches 
on fried rounds of bread built up in the dish around 
a center piece. Syrup poured over. Tarte de 
Peches —French open peach pie. Flan dePeches— 
Open peach pie with custard on top of the fruit. 
Beignets de Peches —Peach fritters, made same as 
apple fritters with halves of peaches. Beignets 
de Peches au Vin du Rhin —Made with peaches 
steeped in Rhine wine, and wine syrup for sauce. 
Pain de Peches —A mould of peach cheese or 
marmalade stiffened with gelatine. The center is 
hollow and filled with whipped cream. See Bo der 
Moulds. Chartreuse de Peches—(i) Mould or¬ 
namentally lined with sliced peaches, and filled with 
peach marmalade. (2) Make a puree of canned 
peaches, blanch and slice six bitter almonds, sweet¬ 
en the puree, mix in the almonds, and also one oz. 
of gelatine for each quart mouldful of the puree. 
Line the moulds with slices of fruits of all colors. 
The French dried and preserved bonbon fruits are 
best for this purpose. Dip each piece in nearly cold 
strong calfs-foot jelly, and let it be placed in posi¬ 
tion. Work out a pattern of mosaic design with the 
fruits. When set, fill with apricot mixture, and 
serve with Devonshire clotted cream around the 
base of the mould. Turn out as you would a jelly. 
Rissoles of Peaches —Spoonful of peach marma¬ 
lade inclosed between the flats of puff paste, egged, 
breaded and fried. Peach Tart a la Montreuil 
—Kind of pie of 'peaches with rice at bottom and 
top. Peach Meringue —Ripe peaches cut small 
on a sheet of cake, covered with meringue, sugar 
sifted on top, baked light color. Peach Dump¬ 
lings —Same ways as apple dumplings. Peach 
Cobbler —Popular Southern dish; a peach pie baked 
in a large, shallow pan, served with the natural 
peach syrup and cream. Peach Ice —Puree of 
peaches in syrup and glucose, frozen. Peach Ice 
Cream —Ripe peaches cut small, frozen in cream 
and sugar. Peach Pies —Same ways as apple pies. 
Peach Cider —Common in some districts; made 
like apple cider. Peach Brandy— Like “ Apple 
Jack,” distilled from peaches; abundant and cheap 
in some sections. Dried Peaches, Peach Pre¬ 
serves, Marmalade, Peach Butter, Brandied 
Peaches are other forms in which surplus peaches 
can be used, and Peach Vinegar and Peach 
Sweet Pickles are highly esteemed in the peach 
growing states. Iced Peaches— “Another dessert 
dish is composed of peaches. These are cut open, 
the kernel is next removed, its place being filled up 


PEA 

with delicious peach-ice flavored with maraschino. 
The two halves are then cemented together with a 
thin layer of the same ice, the fruit passes an in¬ 
stant in the freezer, and is then served. Other stone- 
fruits are treated in the same way.” For other ways 
to cook and use peaches see Apples, Apricots, Pears. 
German Peach Kaltech\le —In Germany a fa¬ 
vorite and very pleasant bowl or “cup” is often 
made of peaches, sliced and soaked for a time in a 
little water with sugar, and three or four bottles of 
Rhine wine poured over them, according to the 
amount of fruit used. 

PEACOCK—Formerly served at royal banquets 
with the utmost pomp and ceremony, generally with 
its plumage replaced after cooking and its beak and 
claws gilded. It is occasionally now sold for turkey 
and passes without the difference being noticed. 
The reason for its not being now in general use for 
the table is the harsh, unsociable nature of the bird, 
which makes the rearing too troublesome and too 
destructive to other poultry to be followed for profit. 
The Peacock as a Decorator —“At all banquets, 
both of the elder and of the middle ages, the pea¬ 
cock was a favorite piece of decoration. Sometimes 
it was quite covered with leaf-gold, as if that were 
an improvement upon its brilliant dyes, and with a 
bit of linen in its mouth, dipped in spirits and set on 
fire, it was served on a golden dish by the lady o^ 
highest rank, attended by her train of maidens and 
followed by music, and was set before the most 
distinguished guest. This was a performance of 
great state and ceremony, and the bird was held in 
so far sacred that oaths could be taken on its head. 

PEA-NUT—The ground nut or ground pea. It 
grows in little mounds of earth and the nuts form on 
the roots. Enormous crops are raised in Virginia, 
the Carolinas and Tennessee. The bulk of the nuts 
are eaten roasted, large quantities are converted 
into oil which passes for olive oil, palm oil, etc.; 
some are used in candy. 

PEAR—The pear is produced in the greatest per¬ 
fection and abundance in California. The Bartlett 
variety is the best for table use. Shipped in boxes 
in its fresh state to all parts it is obtainable almost 
everywhere in the season. Canned in syrup it is 
equally a choice fruit for table use in that form. 
Suedoise of Pears —See Suedoise of Peaches. Pear 
Charlotte —Same as apple Charlotte. Pears a la 
Marquise— Pears on a rice border with whipped 
cream in the center. Tarte de Poires —Pear tart. 
Flan de Poires— Open pear pie with custard or 
cream on top. Beignets de Poires— Pear fritters. 
Baked Pears are most suitable for a luncheon dish. 
Obtain some good baking pears, peel and cut in 
half, removing the cores; place them in a large brown 
jar with 1 lb. of loaf suger to 4 lbs. of pears, also 
the thinly cut peel and juice of a large lemon; cover 
closely, put in a slow oven, and bake until tender) 
(See Raisine de Bourgogne .) Compote of Pears 
forms a nice, sweet at this time of the year. Stew 







398 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


PEA 

your pears in clarified sugar, flavor with strips of 
lemon-peel and color the sugar with cochineal, 
serve cold in a glass dish. Pear Marmalade— 
Boil the rind of one lemon and i oz. bitter almonds 
in a pint of water for half an hour. Take them out 
and add one lb. fine sugar. Boil till dissolved, then 
add the juice of three lemons, 3 lbs. pears cut into 
chips, and ^ lb. more fine sugar. Simmer gently 
till the chips are transparent. Store in jars. (See 
Apples, Apricots .) 

PEAS— Green Peas a la Francaise— Boiled 
and white sauce added. Green Peas a l’Anglaise 
—Dressed with butter and salt only. Petits Pois a 
la Parisienne —Boiled with onions, butter, salt 
and sugar and served with the sauce. Petits Pois 
au Jus—Stewed in stock. Petits Pois a l’An- 
Cienne —Boiled, put into cream sauce; made yellow 
with yolk of egg. Petits Pois auJambon —Stewed 
with ham cut in dice and young onions. Petits 
Pois en Casses —Green peas boiled in the pods. 
Marrowfat Pea— A large and late variety of 
green pea. Split Peas —English yellow field peas 
hulled and split, used principally for making soup, 
but good as a winter vegetable and as a puree with 
salt meats. Blackeyed Pea —A Southern variety, 
like a bean, very generally eaten in the South; cooks 
to a dark color. Lady Pea —White Southern va¬ 
riety, very small, scarcely larger than wheat, cooks 
yellow; not so coarse as the black-eye pea; in good 
demand for the table. Green Peas Boiled in 
their Shells —There is a pea now cultivated 
which, when young, has such tender shells, that 
they are able to be eaten as well as the peas. Boil 
for half an hour in water, drain, and warm in but¬ 
ter. Stir in some cream; thicken with yolks of eggs, 
and flavor with a few drops of vinegar. Our Com¬ 
mon Split-pea Soup —Wholesome and agreeable 
in winter, with dried mint and tiny croutons, is 
wholly unknown in France; the dried green peas, 
termed pois casses, only are used for similar pur¬ 
poses there. 

PECTOSE—The jelly making constituent of fruit, 
abundant in the cranberry and crab apple. “ Besides 
these juices, sugar, cellulose, starch, and vegetable 
albumen, there is an important constituent of suc¬ 
culent fruits to which the name of pecten, or pectin, 
or pectose, has been given. It is vegetable jelly, also 
contained in turnips, parsnips, carrots, etc., but in 
smaller proportions. We all know it in the form 
of currant jelly, apple jelly, etc. In its separated 
state it is about the most digestible food in existence. 

PELAMIDE (Fr.)—Pilchard, a full grown sar¬ 
dine; fish like a herring. 

PEMMICAN—Often named in relation to Indian 
or Arctic life; it is beef dried and pounded to pow¬ 
der, mixed with beef fat and sometimes with dried 
fruits such as currants; packed in cakes and bags. 

PEPPER—Ground pepper is subjected to adul¬ 
teration to a greater extent, probably, than any 
other commodity required in the hotel store-room, 


PEP 

and the simplest means to avoid imposition is to buy 
the pepper in the whole state and have it ground in 
the house. So systematic is the practice of the manu¬ 
facturers of ground spices they make little or no dis¬ 
guise of the fact, but only of the kind of adulterants 
employed, for the buyer in quantity is offered dif¬ 
ferent grades, as “pure, first adulteration, second 
adulteration, and third adulteration,” according to 
the price he is willing to pay. Where pepper is 
purchased for use and not for re-sale it is manifestly 
the cheapest plan to buy the “pure,” if it be pure, or 
the whole berry and grind it. The stuff found in 
adulterated peppers is, in various mixtures, mustard 
hulls, peanut cake, ground olive stones, cocoanut 
shells, meal, sand, spent ginger, charcoal, etc., the 
commonest and cheapest samples containing no pep¬ 
per at all but the dust and tailing from the mills. 
Black Pepper —Is the seed of a perennial climbing 
plant found growing wild in parts of India, but is 
extensively cultivated. The seeds or pepper corns 
are gathered just before they are ripe and a're dried 
on mats. White Pepper —Is the same berry as 
black pepper allowed to ripen before picking, when 
it does not shrink like the black and the outer black 
husk or bran can be removed, making the grains 
white. White pepper is much the better for most 
cooking purposes; that is, for adding to dishes that 
are already cooked, as it does not show in dark 
specks, but black pepper is to be preferred for fla¬ 
vor; to be cooked in compounds which are to be 
strained afterward. Mignonette Pepper —Is black 
pepper crushed, not ground, that it may be cooked 
in sauces and soups and be easily strained out, being 
coarse. Long Pepper —An inferior sort of pepper 
sometimes used in pickling but now in little demand. 
It is not fit to grind, having an unpleasant flavor. 
It is used to some extent to adulterate ground white 
pepper and is the source of the offensive odor given 
out by some samples of white pepper when heated 
in cooking. Long pepper is the seed of a weed 
which grows along the water-courses in India. 
Cayenne Pepper — Red pepper pods and seeds 
ground; the small capsicums are the kind generally 
used, but there is a mixture of various sorts. The 
adulterating material is yellow corn meal, turmeric, 
mustard hulls, etc., but it is not difficult to get it 
quite pure from respectable merchants. Spanish 
Sweet Peppers— A large kind of “ bull-nose” pep¬ 
per used green as a vegetable, stuffed and baked, or 
eaten raw, as a salad. Coloring Pepper— In New 
Orleans, and Florida cities a sort of cayenne of very 
mild taste is used under the above name, principally 
in fish cooking. It is an article of regular sale in 
grocery stores, and occupies the same place in creole 
cookery that curry powder holds in that of other 
countries. It is mixed with creole boiled rice in suf¬ 
ficient amount to make the whole dish light red; a 
fish to be baked is laid open in the pan and perfectly 
covered with the red coloring pepper before cook¬ 
ing; it enters into jambalaya and into the fish stew 
known there by name of courtbouillon. 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


399 


PER 

PEPPER POT—The native soup of the British 
West Indies, mentioned in song and story. It is a 
hotch-potch like the Spanish olla podrida , one song 
running to the effect that when made in camp, each 
soldier drops into the pot whatever he has been able 
to capture or obtain in any way, chickens, game, 
fresh or salt meats, and vegetables of all sorts; the 
special seasoning is a native sauce, cassareep , and 
plenty of chili pepper. 

PERCH—“The ancients have not left us any 
hints as to how perch were cooked. The present 
practice over the Continent is to stew them in vine¬ 
gar, fresh grape, orange juice, or other sour sauce; 
but, though this is certainly the common way in 
Italy, at the Lago Maggiore they are spitted in their 
scales, and basted while roasting with the same acid 
juice. In Holland butter is added. The finest perch 
is the zander, or giant perch of German waters. A 
recent writer declares that it is worth going all the 
way to Dresden to taste it.” The perch is one of 
the most abundant fresh-water fish on both sides of 
the Atlantic. Its name in French is the same as in 
English, it can scarcely, therefore, appear in any 
menu in disguise. 

PERDRIX, PERDREAUX (Fr.) — Partridges; 
the latter term is applied to young birds. 

PERIGORD (a/a) — With truffles; name of a 
town in France famous as a truffle market. 

PERIGORD PIE—A pate or raised pie of boned 
partridges and fresh truffles. 

PERIGEUX, SAUCE—Truffle sauce, made of 
espagnole, meat glaze, white wine and sliced truf¬ 
fles. Meats served with this sauce are a la Peri- 
geux. Parisian Restaurant RECiPE-And, being 
amongst my recipes, here is one for a sauce which is 
most delicious, and which, being of truffles, can be 
eaten with almost any dish. It is called Sauce Peri- 
geux : Chop up some lean ham into small dice and 
mix it with an onion and shallot minced very fine. 
Fry this with some butter in a saucepan until the 
onion has browned the whole, when add a little 
white wine and let it simmer. Make some browned 
butter, mix the sauce with it, with an equal quantity 
of bouillon and shredded truffles. Let it simmer 
again until it becomes of the consistency of sauce. 
Pass it through a sieve and add as many truffles as 
possible, cut into slices, when the sauce will be 
ready for use. 

PERIWINKLE-A sea snail of small size, cooked 
and eaten as a relish, cold, but does not enter into 
any compound dishes. 

PERRY—The juice of the pear; pear cider. 

PERSILLADE (Fr.)—Parsley sauce; a dish made 
green with cooked parsley. 

PERSIMMON—A wild fruit of the Middle and 
Southern States; good but neglected; grows on trees 
of small dimensions. It has the shape and appear¬ 
ance of a small tomato, the color, however, is yellow 
when nearly mature and reddish brown when fully 


PIIE 

ripe; this state is not reached until after a slight 
frost. It is then a mass of very sweet pulp contain¬ 
ing several brown seeds, the taste is musky, like 
the banana. While it is of but little value as fresh 
fruit it will make a pleasant sparkling wine. It is 
made into Persimmon Beer in Virginia in this way: 
A barrel with pine branches in the bottom, or straw 
if pine is not to be had, and a faucet, is half filled 
with ripe persimmons; a panful of the fruit mixed 
with bran or meal is baked until partly browned 
and added to the fruit in the barrel to heighten the 
flavor; the barrel is then filled up with water and 
allowed to ferment like cider. In a few days it is 
drawn off into another barrel and bunged tight or 
bottled, and the first barrel refilled with water even¬ 
tually makes vinegar. Good domestic wine can be 
made without the baked fruit, and without sugar, a 
little yeast spread upon toast assisting the fermen¬ 
tation. Persimmon BREAD-The sweet pulp of per¬ 
simmons rubbed through a strainer used to mix with 
corn meal instead of water, makes a sweet corn cake. 

PETTITOES—Sheeps’ feet, lambs’ feet or pigs’ 
feet. The common popular name of sheeps’ petti¬ 
toes is sheeps’ trotters. 

PETIT OR PETITE (Fr.)-Small. Petits Pois 
—small (young) green peas. Petits Pains —Small 
loaves, rolls. Petites Fondues —small souffles of 
cheese and eggs in paper cases. Petites Merin¬ 
gues —Small meringues or egg-kisses. 

PETITS-CHOUX (Fr.)—One of the three or four 
names attached to the hollow cakes popularly known 
as cream puffs when filled with cream. The petits- 
choux paste is employed for several purposes. (See 
Eclairs, Profiterolles , Queen Fritters.) 

PHEASANT—“The pheasant has probably been 
more praised and more abused than any other game 
bird. Dr. Kitchiner says its rarity is its best recom¬ 
mendation, while Kettner says, if kept till the fu- 
meite is fully developed, it is beyond all other fowls. 
This is the point at which opinion divides. The 



PHEASANT—FAISAN DE BOHEME. 

pheasant requires long keeping to be eatable, and 
those who do not like ‘high’ game do not like the 
pheasant.” “Some people will stare with as¬ 
tonishment when we name boiled pheasant, yet 
the only pheasant we ever really enjoyed was 
boiled, and served with celery sauce.” Boiled 
Pheasant — “When you want a superb dish. 







400 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


PHO 

a dish that will strike your guests with amaze¬ 
ment and awe, boil a pheasant, and serve it with 
oyster sauce, I am aware that this sounds like a 
culinary heresy- Try it. I do not say you will aban¬ 
don roasting, but I do say this—the recollection of 
that dish will haunt you for months, and you will 
not rest satisfied until you have it again before you.” 
English Pheasant en Plumage —The head taken 
off with its feathers, also the rump with the long 
tail-feathers, both reserved while the pheasant is 
larded, roasted, placed in dish and plumage fastened 
in place with silver skewers. Roast Pheasant—- 
Larded, slice of bacon tied on breast, butter and 
shallots inside, roasted; served with bread sauce. 
Pheasants in England— Are regarded almost as 
domestic fowls, being protected as they are in game 
preserves and bred and thinned out systematically. 
Their flesh is light in color, and they are cooked in 
most of the ways suitable for poultry. French and 
other Continental menus most frequently mention 
Bohemian pheasants, or faisans de Boh erne. Fai- 
sans a la Soubise —Braised pheasants covered with 
Soubise sauce. Faisans a la Bohemienne —Phea¬ 
sants stuffed with joiegras, trufBes^.etc., cooked in 
mirepoix; served in the sauce with truffles. Fai¬ 
sans a la Fontainebleau— The breasts are larded 
in a square. They are braised in white stock with 
lettuces and sausages, and served with the garnish 
and brown sauce. Pheasant pies and pheasant gal¬ 
antines, in the usual ways. 

PHOSPHORUS PASTE FOR ROACHES- 
The following recipe for the destruction of cock¬ 
roaches in bakehouses, etc., is efficacious: Mix i 
dram of phosphorus with 2 oz. of water in a stone 
jar; set this in hot water until the phosphorus is 
melted, then pour into a quart or half-gallon pan 
containing % lb. of melted lard. Stir up quickly, 
and put % lb of fine sugar and lb. flour made into 
a stiff paste. Make the paste into small balls about 
the size of small Spanish nuts, and put them about 
wherever you find the cockroaches, and fill up all 
cracks and holes with the paste. They will eat it 
and die by hundreds. 

PICCALILLI—Mixed pickles. 

PICKEREL—American lake-fish of the pike fam¬ 
ily, larger than a pike, and of first quality for the 
table; is cooked by broiling, boiling, frying, or 
baking. 

PIECES MONTEES—Large decorative pieces 
of cooks’ work of all kinds. ‘‘The service a la Russe, 
by some gourmets lauded to the skies, by others 
abominated as inartistic and unconvivial, has almost 
banished savory pieces montees from the dinner table. 
Save at a restaurant in Paris or St. Petersburg, we 
rarely see our food in its entirety. But there are cer¬ 
tain plats which should be seen before they are eaten. 
Such is the saumon a la Chambord, surmounted by 
its forest of katelets / the dinde truffee, and in partic¬ 
ular the poulet a la Marengo , that glorious pyramid 
of fowl fried in oil—Napoleon’s cook had no butter 
when his master icturned from his famous victory, 


PIE 

and was fain to use Lucca oil instead—eggs, sippets, 
and crawfish. Served a la Russe in fragments from 
an invisible entity, these historic mets would lose 
half their purport and significance.” 

PIE—There is a marked dissimilarity between the 
English and American idea of pie. An English 
feast is scarcely complete without pie, and at a ball 
supper there will be a variety; but they are pies of 
meat and game, whereas the American pie in general 
is a sweet. A few hot pies of meat are in high favor 
here, such as chicken pie; but nobody ever thinks of 
ordering a cold meat pie. This is the saying of an 
English gourmet and expresses the national idea: 
A Gradation of Pies —‘‘The best of all pies is a 
grouse-pie; the second is a blackcock-pie; the third 
a woodcock-pie (with plenty of spices); the fourth a 
chicken-pie (ditto). As for a pigeon-pie, it is not 
worthy of a place upon any table, as long as there 
are chickens in the world. A rook-pie is a bad 
imitation of that bad article; and a beefsteak- 
pie is really abominable. A good pie is ex¬ 
cellent when hot; but the test of a good pie is: 
‘How does it eat cold?* Apply this to the samples 
above cited, and you will find I am correct.”— 
Raised Pork Pies —There are establishments in 
England where these are turned out by the ton,equal¬ 
ing the American pie bakeries, and are shipped to 
all parts; they are of all sizes but the greater num¬ 
ber are of the small sort for retailing at the same 
average prices as American sweet pies. They con¬ 
sist of a case made of hot water paste, which con¬ 
sists of % lb. shortening to each pound of flour and 

pt. hot water, stirred up at medium heat (not boil¬ 
ing) into a stiff, smooth dough and shaped by hand 
entirely, the outer wall being pinched and pressed 
upwards from the bottom. The cut meat and season¬ 
ings are then put in, the lid put on in a separate 
piece; the pie decorated and then baked. The diffi¬ 
culty of making occurs with the large sizes. Those 
who have attempted to make the article as a home- 
manufacture, know that the great difficulty is to get 
the crust sufficiently stiff to stand and keep erect 
with such weighty contents as are put inside, and 
without disastrous collapse. By a few deft turns 
of the hand, the palm being most used, the fore¬ 
man, at our visit, encased the solid wooden “block” 
used for the purpose with an even outer casing of 
paste, until it “stood alone” on the withdrawal of 
the block, like a good silk dress, supported by its 
own inherent richness of material. Inside this the 
solid contents were then placed, the lid was put on, 
the line of juncture neatly pared off with an instru¬ 
ment which left an ornamental border; the flowered 
“chase-hooping” was passed round the circumfer¬ 
ence, to make surety doubly sure; the ornamental 
foliage or scroll work on the cover, with the lieradic 
arms and manufacturers’ stamp was affixed, and the 
finished article was ready to lie sent to the oven. 
The latter is kept at an evenly regulated tempera¬ 
ture, maintained by a thermometer gague; and when 
the pie eomes out brown, crisp, and erect, the work- 





401 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


PIE 

man’s anxieties are at an end. The better kinds of 
pies have a richer crust. (See Paste.) Raised 
P bench Pies —Are often made in winter, as they 
will keep a week or two closely covered, and they 
are frequently sent, packed in a close tin box, for a 
considerable distance as a Christmas gift. These 
pies have standing crust or walls, and may be filled 
with game or poultry, previously boned, seasoned 
and stewed, and they are generally made very large. 
“Put the pie into an oven and bake until brown. 
Phe lid must be baked separately. When both are 
done, remove the bones and bread crusts from the 
inside of the pie, and fill with the prepared ingredi¬ 
ents, which must be previously stewed in their own 
gravy, with the addition of bits of butter rolled in 
flour.” {See Pate.) American Pie —A Philadel¬ 
phian claims that there are more pies eaten in his 
city than in New York. He says that Philadelphia 
makes about 45,000 pies per day throughout the year, 
which makes 315,000 pies per week, or 1,5X3,500 for 
the entire year. In a single day it uses for the 
average run of pies 40 tubs, 32 qts. eacli of fruit, 
300 qts. of milk, 7 barrels of flour, 500 lbs. of lard, | 
400 lbs. of cheese, 60 doz. eggs, and various other 
ingredients in lesser quantities. The total output 
from all the large concerns is about 20,000 pies daily, j 
Then there are hundreds of small bake-shops and 1 
each of them makes from half a dozen to several 
hundred pies, or altogether about 25,000 per day. 
This makes the total number about 45,000 per day, or 
1 5*885,500 in a year. In New York one of the fore¬ 
men of a large factory stated: “In our establish¬ 
ment we turn out every kind of pie so far discovered, 
but there are certain kinds that are staple. These 
are apple, mince, lemon, grape, raisin, plum, goose¬ 
berry, whortleberry, strawberry, peach, raspberry, 
pineapple, pumpkin, and custard. Apple, mince, 
lemon, pumpkin, and custard are the favorites. All 
our material is the best in the market, and we buy it 
in large quantities, always keeping our orders 
ahead.” “How much material do you use daily?” 
asked the reporter. “ In a single day we use about 
100 dozen eggs, 850 poynds of lard, 12 barrels of 
flour, 600 quarts of milk, 2,500 quarts of fruit, and 
turn out about 7,000 pies, or about 50,000 a week and 
2,600,000 a year. The output from the large con¬ 
cerns in the city will amount to 35,000 pies daily, 
and the bakers will turn out about 40,000 more, or 
75,000 a day, 525,000 a week, and 27,300,000 per year, 
an average of about sixteen pies per capita.” Y ale 
Pie —Put three or four pounds of steak, seasoned 
with pepper and salt, into a medium-sized dish; cut 
in pieces two chickens, lay them on the steak, and 
over them put a dozen oysters, without the liquor, 
add six hard boiled eggs; pour in half a pint of 
strong ale; and cover the whole with fresh mush¬ 
rooms and half a pound of neat’s foot jelly; cover 
the dish with a good paste, and bake in a brisk oven. 
Veal Pie —“Weal pie,” said Sammy Weller, “is a 
werry good thing when it isn’t cats and you know 
the woman wot made it.” 


PIG 

PIGEONS (Fr.) — Pigeons. The same in both 
languages. 

PIGEONNEAUX (Fr.)-Young pigeons; squabs. 

PIGEONS—“Pigeons, quails, and other dark- 
fleshed birds have the reputation af being a heating 
diet, which is probably correct. But, however that 
may be, one epicurean rule holds good with pigeons, 
which is, whatever recipes may be given to serve 
hot, in all forms they are better eaten cold. There 
are, in fact, only two orthodox ways of cooking 
pigeons, namely, in a baked pie, and in a boiled pie, 
or pigeon pudding.” Philadelphia SQUABS-Have 
a great reputation and serve a good purpose as a 
substitute for game. Old pigeons are really g'ood 
only in one way, that is, “jugged” or potted, which 
means cooked in a covered jar in the oven for sev¬ 
eral hours. Fattened Pigeons— Bordeaux pigeons 
may now be seen in the markets in boxes of 12, as 
large and plump as partridges. We cannot under¬ 
stand why the farmers of France are allowed to re¬ 
tain a monopoly in fattening pigeons for the table; 
surely there is an opening here for our own people. 
Broiled Pigeons —Pluck, draw, singe, and truss 
your pigeons; beat them until flat, and warm in 
melted butter, seasoned with salt and pepper. When 
nearly cooked, remove the pigeons, sprinkle them 
with breadcrumbs and broil over a moderate fire 
until a good color. Dish up, covered with piquante 
sauce. Pigeon au Riz aux Tomates —Specialty. 
One of the special dishes of the Cafe de Paris, in 
the Avenue de l’Opera, is pigeon au riz aux tomates, 
and this dish is prepared as follows: Sautez in but¬ 
ter two pigeons, add salt and 3 fine tomatoes cut in 
4, pipped and peeled. Meanwhile fry in butter 2 
finely minced onions, and when these are of a nice 
golden color add 200 grammes of picked rice. Con¬ 
tinue warm ing your rice for 2 or 3 minutes, then 
moisten with a pint of clear bouillon; allow the 
whole to cook for 20 minutes, withdraw the pigeons, 
and add the rice. This dish should be served at 
once. Pigeon a la Zetland —Cut the birds in 
half, steep in a highly spiced wine marinade, let 
them lie for 12 hours. The last hour place on the 
hot plate, so that they may be half cooked; then 
drain, wipe the birds dry, wrap in a vine leaf, draw¬ 
ing the stalk through the tip of the leaf, dip into a 
batter and fry. Garnish with fried parsley; brown 
gravy. Potted Pigeons —Bone the pigeons, stuff 
with veal and ham forcemeat highly seasoned; press 
the birds into deep, brown earthenware dishes, cover 
with butter well seasoned with mignonette pepper, 
mace and allspice. When the birds are cooked, lift 
them carefully out, and whilst hot press into oval 
pots. To dish, turn out on to dishes covered with 
lace paper; garnish with light endive, capers and 
pickled chillies. Pigeon Cutlets with Green 
PEAS-Halves of pigeons simmered in butter, pressed 
flat until cold, trimmed to shape of cutlets, breaded, 
broiled; with green peas in the dish. Pigeon As- 
Pic-Stewed pigeons, meat pounded through a seive, 
mixed with cream and yolks and seasonings over 









402 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


PIG 

the fire. Layers of aspic jelly and layers of pigeon 
puree alternately in a mould, made cold, turned out 
and decorated. Pigeon Pie— Bottom of baking 
dish covered with thin beefsteak, halves of pigeon 
on that, hard-boiled yolks, forcemeat balls, mush¬ 
rooms, thin slices of bacon, strong beef gravy, crust 
of pastry on top, baked i y 2 hours. Stewed Pigeon 
— Partly fried in butter, slice of lean ham, mush¬ 
rooms, stock, herbs, seasonings and wine, stewed 
together until the sauce is rich enough for gravy. 
Roast Pigeons— Cover young pigeons with vine 
leaves, wrap them up in bacon and roast for y 2 hour. 
Serve with their own gravy, and garnish with water 
cresses. Filets de Pigeons a la Duxelle — 
Breasts of pigeons coated with Duxelles sauce, 
breaded and fried; Provenfale sauce and mushrooms. 
COTELETTES DE PlGEONS AU FUMET DE GlBIER— 
Breasts of pigeons breaded and fried, piece of bone 
stuck in to imitate a cutlet; game sauce. Pigeon 
Cutlets —Are also made of the halves of pigeons 
boned, except the leg bone, which represents the 
cutlet bone, as above, with green peas. 

PIGEONS, WILD—There are times in some parts 
of the country when immense flocks of wild pigeons 
settle down in the forest for a few days, and the 
people from the neighboring villages shoot them by 
thousands, glutting the market for a brief period. 
With a little experience it is easy to pick out the 
young birds, which may be roasted or broiled, and 
the heavier old ones should have long cooking in a 
gravy. 

PIG — How to Serve Roast Pig— “Of late they 
have got into a trick of serving up the roasted pig 
Avitthout the usual concomitants. I hate the inno¬ 
vating spirit of this age; it is my aversion, and will 
undo the country. Always let him appear erect on 
his four legs, with a lemon in his mouth, a sprig of 
parsley in his ear, his trotters bedded on a lair of 
sage. One likes to see a pig appear just as he used 
to do upon the board of a Swift, a Pope, an Arbuth- 
not. Take atvay the customs of a people, and their 
identity is destroyed.” Peach-Fed Pig —At a re¬ 
cent dinner, given by Lady Eardley, one of the most 
remarkable dishes was cold ham cut from a pig fed 
entirely on peaches, and imported from America. It 
was served with aspic jelly and truffles. Pigs and 
Parsnips —There was nothing considered more del¬ 
icate in the sixteenth century, nothing more odor¬ 
iferous, than the flesh of young pigs fed on parsnips, 
and roasted, with a stuffing of fine herbs. Cochon 
de Lait a la SAVOYARDE-Sucking pig stuffed with 
sausage-meat, rice, shallots, seasonings; served with 
little sausages, white sauce with wine and mush¬ 
rooms. Cochon de Lait a la Perigeux —Stuffed 
with truffles, served with Perigeux sauce. Cochon 
de Lait a la Ciiipolata— Sucking pig stuffed with 
chestnuts and sausage-meat, served with Chipolata 
garnish. Cochon de Lait en Galantine —A 
boned pig, stuffed, decorated. 

PIGS’ FEET—Thej r are put up in packages of all 


PIN 

sizes in spiced vinegar, making a convenient and 
very acceptable article of hotel provision all through 
the season of cool weather. Generally served cold, 
very often breaded and fried, or broiled, or stewed 
in white sauce thickened with yolks. Pieds de 
Porc A la Ste. Meneiiould —Pigs’ feet breaded 
and fried. Boneless Pigs’ Feet— Can be bought 
in cans. They are capable of being cooked in or¬ 
namental or shapely ways by being heated and 
pressed first. 

PIKE—Fresh-water fish common and plentiful in 
America. The pike has been honored with the most 
elaborate cooking in France, pike a la Chambord 
being an artistic dish. There are many better fish 
than the pike, however, and it makes only a good 
ordinary fry or broil at a moderate price in this coun¬ 
try. Brochet a la Regence — “The pike was 
cooked for 2 hours in strong gravy and 3 bottles of 
champagne; the stuffing was of pounded crayfish 
and whiting, and the pike was also covered an inch 
thick all Qver with the same, the head and eyes be¬ 
ing marked out with chopped truffles, and the body 
covered with ‘bracelets’ of truffles and crayfish tails, 
with rosettes of filleted sole. Bunches of eel-cutlets 
were not wanting, nor pyramids of mushrooms, nor 
oysters, nor carps’ tongues and milts, nor ten of Ca¬ 
nine's never ending skewers, fitted out with the 
same garnitures; and then you behold lebrochet ala 
Regence , which some miserable plagiarists had the 
audacity to put in a menu opposite a dish of small 
fish!” 

PILAU, PILLAU, or PILAF— Turkish dish of 
rice and butter, with or without meat or tomatoes or 
other additions, generally, however, haviug mutton 
cut in dice, and a flavoring of fried onions. 

PILCHARD—English sea fish like a herring. 

PILOT FISH—So called from its being the fore¬ 
runner of the shark. The appearance of pilot fish 
around a vessel is always followed by the appear¬ 
ance of the white-bellied monsters. Pilot fish are 
captured for market and cooked by frying, broiling 
and baking. 

PIMENTO—Allspice. 

PINON NUT—Mexican nut like the pistachio, 
about the size of a beech nut. Sold in most city 
fruit stores. 

PINEAPPLE—The pineapple is grown abun¬ 
dantly in the Bahamas and all the West India islands 
and is cheap in all American markets. Canned 
Pineapple— Is a favorite supper fruit; it is compote 
of pineapples ready prepared. Grated Pineapple 

In this form it is used in pineapple ice cream and 
pineapple sherbet. See Ices, Sherbets. Pineapple 
Pie— An open pie or tart with grated pineapple and 
sugar for filling. Pineapple Cream Pie— Grated 
pineapple mixed with powdered crackers and cus¬ 
tard mixture, baked in a crust, not covered. This 
fi uit, can be used in all the principal ways same as 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


403 


PIN 

other fruits, in tarts, marmalade, jelly and pre¬ 
serves. (See Apples, Apricots.') 

PINTADE (Fr.)—Guinea Fowl. 

PIQUE (Fr.)—Larded with strips of bacon or 
tongue, truffle, mushroom stalks, etc. Filet de 
Bceuf Pique— Larded fillet of beef. 

PIQUANT SAUCE—Brown sauce made piquant 
by adding chopped shallots, little vinegar and pep¬ 
per, boiled a few minutes, chopped capers and gher¬ 
kins added, and meat glaze if only ordinary brown 
sauce be used. 

PISTACHIO NUTS—Much valued in pastry 
and confectionery for their pea-green color and al¬ 
mond flavor. The nut is gathered in the green state. 
It is about the size of a filbert, is the seed of a tree 
which grows in Italy and the East. Is generally 
found in the Italian fruit stores ready shelled, but 
has a reddish husk which is removed by scalding, 
like almonds. The price varies as the crop some¬ 
times fails, but a common price is about 40 cents a 
pound. While the flavor is delicate it is weak and 
needs the addition of almond flavor to make it com¬ 
plete. Pistachio Ice Cream —Pounded pistachios 
and almonds pounded, some spinach juice or safe 
vegetable green coloring to heighten the color, 
(which, in whatever these nuts are used, should al¬ 
ways be green), glucose, sugar and cream frozen. 
Pistachio Fritters —Chopped pistachios in twice 
their weight of sweet fritter batter, dropped by 
spoonfuls in hot lard and fried—these can be made 
green fritters by adding spinach green. Creme de 
Pistaches —Pistachio ice cream. Petites Me¬ 
ringues auxPistaches— Kiss meringues sprinkled 
with chopped pistachios and filled with whipped 
cream. Bavarois aux Pistaches — Bavarian 
cream, green, with pounded pistachios and almonds, 
sprinkled over when turned out of mould with 
chopped pistachios. Petits Choux en Gimblettes 
—Cream puffs like jumbles, that is, in rings, dipped 
in syrup, then in chopped pistachio nuts and sugar. 
Petits Puits aux Pistaches— Little wells of pas¬ 
try; i.e., puff paste tartlets, brushed over with syrup, 
covered with chopped pistachios and sugar and filled 
with whipped cream. Gateau de Pistaches— Pis¬ 
tachio cakes made in all the same ways as almond 
•cakes. (See JLitnond.) 



Plaice—Plie. 

PLAICE—An English flat-fish, larger than a 
flounder, distinguished by yellow spots on the back. 


PLA 

“ Plaice, to be eaten in perfection, should directly 
it is caught be cleansed, its head cut off, and then be 
hungup by the tail, and sprinkled with salt, and left 
to dry for about twelve hours; if for filleting, the 
fillets should then be removed and laid in a marinade 
of lemon-juice, a few drops of oil, pepper, salt, 
shredded onion, and parsley, for two or three hours. 
The fillets must be wiped perfectly dry on a clean 
cloth before using. Treated in this way they lose 
almost entirely the watery, wooly taste so often 
complained of.” 

PLANTAIN—A variety of banana, less sweet 
than the banana common in the markets and better 
suited to be baked with sugar. 

PLATE—At the sale of a collection of old plate, 
which took place a few days ago at a country house 
in Bedfordshire, the extraordinary price of eighty- 
six shillings per ounce was paid for a pair of old 
English sconces, date 1718. Nearly as much was ob¬ 
tained for a true Queen Anne loving cup, with 
double handles and cover, dated 1713. A quaint old 
heater, with grid-iron, dated 1679, realized no less 
than sixty-six pounds. It is clear that the prevail¬ 
ing “depression” does not in the least affect the cur¬ 
rent value of objects of art, if they are really of 
genuine merit. The Royal Plate, which is prob¬ 
ably the finest in the world, is usually kept in two 
strong-rooms at Windsor Castle, and is valued at 
two millions sterling. The gold service, which was 
purchased by George IV from Rundell and Bridge, 
dines one hundred and thirty persons; and the silver 
wine-cooler, which he bought about the same time, 
holds two men, who could sit in it comfortably. It 
is enclosed with plate-glass, and is splendidly 
“chased.” The Cleaning and Treatment of 
Plate —The best Paris whiting (perfectly clean and 
free from grit), moistened with spirit or water until 
about the consistency of cream, should be smeared 
on the article and lightly rubbed off with a soft 
chamois or wash-leather. The ornamental parts, 
where it cannot be rubbed off, brush briskly when 
dry. Polish with a rouged leather (a little rouge 
should be placed on the leather from time to time, 
not on the article); afterwards rinse with hot water, 
in which a little soap has been dissolved, and care¬ 
fully wipe quite dry with a clean leather. Frosted 
Silver —Use only whiting and spirit, no rouge. 
Gilt Work— Wipe only with a rouged leather; if 
badly tarnished, moisten with a little spirit. Leath¬ 
ers for cleaning plate should be kept dry. When a 
leather is washed, it should be rinsed in a weak so¬ 
lution of soap and water (water alone would make it 
hard);and when dry,pulled and rubbed till it becomes 
perfectly soft. Plate after use should, if necessary, be 
washed with hot water and soap, and wiped over 
with a leather before it is put away. Plate keeps 
its color longest in a dry place, free from gas and 
other fumes; and, if cleaned according to above in¬ 
structions, will last much longer than if cleaned in 
any other way. In the case of Brittania metal and 
nickel silver goods (not silver-plated), the plain sur- 






404 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


PL A 

face should be cleaned with polishing paste, and the 
ornamental parts brushed with whiting (as above 
directed), and finally polished with a leather and dry 
whiting. 

PLATS— (Fr.)—Dishes of meats, etc. Plats du 
Jour —Dishes of the day; a few prepared dishes for 
dinner which one may find at the best restaurants, 
besides the uprepared dishes which may be ordered 
from the card. 

PLATEAU—The central ornament of a dinner 
table; sometimes it is a mirror laid fiat in imitation 
of a lake bordered with moss and flowers; some¬ 
times it is a raised bank of flowers; at other times 
a pyramidal device or a temple. 

PLIE (Fr.)—Plaice, a fish. 

PLOMBIERES ICE—A mixture of ice cream 
and candied fruits, named for a place. (See Ices.) 

PLOVERS — The best plovers are the golden 
plovers. They were the first birds that were eaten 
without being drawn, and they are still dressed in 
this way. Broiled Plovers —Broiled plovers are 
very good as a supper dish. They should be simply 
broiled as they are, kept well buttered while cook¬ 
ing, and, when ready, served on slices of fried bread. 
Roast Plovers— Plovers should never be drawn, 
but wrapped up in slices of bacon and roasted. Lay 
some pieces of toast in the dripping-pan, and serve 



Plover—Pluvier. 


the plovers on them. Croustades of Plover a la 
Provencale —Plovers in brown sauce with garlic 
mushrooms, white wine, parsley, served in cup- 
shapes of fried bread. Filets de Pluviers aux 
CHAMPiGNONS-Breasts of roasted plovers with crou¬ 
tons spread with the trail, and mushrooms in game 
sauce. Filets de Pluviers a la LucuLLus-Fillets 
of plovers covered with forcemeat and served in a 
border of toasted bread, with a thick puree of plov¬ 
ers piled in the center and game sauce around. Pot¬ 
ted Plovers —Boned plovers with raw game force¬ 
meat packed in a jar with seasonings, wine and es¬ 
sence made from the bones, cooked in the oven. 
Served cold. 

PLO\ ERS’ EGGS—Plovers’ eggs have, how¬ 
ever, a far higher reputation than the birds them¬ 
selves. They are delicious little morsels hard-boiled; 
they are incomparable in a salad or sandwich; and 
most admirable of all set like large opals in aspic 
jelly. “ Plovers’ eggs are generally eaten hard, and 


PLU 

require seven or eight minutes to cook. They are 
often used as border for mayonaise salads, or dished' 
up on a rice-stand and garnished with aspic jelly. 
They are also served in their shells and dished in 
a nest of moss. In the latter case slices of brown 
bread and butter should be handed with them 
We have noticed this spring that ready-boiled 
plovers’ eggs appear in the poulterers’ windows— 
price S cents each.” Ways of Serving —Plovers’ 
eggs are best an naturel. Some people prepare 
them in various sauces and gravies, or set them in 
aspic jelly; but simply hard boiled - they should boil 
ten minutes—and served either hot or cold (the last 
for preference), in a napkin, in their shells, or else 
shelled and prettily ornamented with watercress or 
parsley, they are more appetizing than when cooked 
up a la Bechamel , a la tripe , en aspic , etc. Substi¬ 
tutes for Plovers’ Eges —When the demand 
for pheasants’ eggs begins to slacken, they might 
take the place of plovers’ eggs. For the table they 
are very fine eating. The young of the black-headed 
gull is excellent eating. Its eggs resemble crows’ 
more than plovers’ eggs; but vast quantities of them 
are sold for plovers’ eggs. 

PLUCHE— Of green herbs for soups and stews; 
finely cut sorrel, chervil, parsley, etc. 

PLUCK—Common popular name of the heart, 
liver and lights (lungs) of small animals as exposed 
for sale by the butchers as lambs’ pluck, etc. 

PLUMS—A considerable number of stone fruits 
are included in the general name of plum, varying 
from the large egg plum and greengage to the dam¬ 
son in size and appearance. All the ways of cook¬ 
ing and using apricots and most of those named for 
apples can be employed suitably for plums in some of 
their varieties. The greengage is especially a choice 
fruit for the compote dish, and its color, to contrast 
with the orange yellow of the apricot, gives it a 
particular value in decorative pastry work. (See 
Apples, Apricots , Gree 7 igage, Pears, Peaches , 
Cherries.) 

PLUM PUDDING — Peculiar to Christmas in 
this country, as crepes and pancakes are to Shrove¬ 
tide elsewhere. It has been an institution in Britain 
for centuries, but in olden times was a porridge, a 
sort of mincemeat, and was eaten before the meats 
instead of after. There is a story of a late day of a 
great Englishman abroad who, having distinguished 
guests to dine with him on Christmas, decided to 
surprise them with the treat of an English plum 
pudding, and accordingly instructed his French 
cook how to make it. But he forgot to tell him the 
ingredients were to be tied up in a bag, so when the 
pudding was ordered in the cook with a string of 
assistants marched in with a procession of soup 
tureens holding what should have been the pudding. 
The mixture when prepared had been stirred into 
the great pot of boiling water and made into soup. 
Sample Recipe —There are a score or two of dif¬ 
ferent recipes for making plum pudding; for a good 












THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


405 - 


PLU 

sample see Christmas Pudding. This is symbolical: 
The Pudding of the Three Kings — Is a very 
rich plum pudding-, made from the old-fashioned 
concomitants. A basin is buttered, lined with a thin 
suet crust; then the pudding- mixture is put in to 
half fill the basin. This is followed by a rich cus¬ 
tard perfumed with orange flower water; a paste 
cover is put on, and the whole steamed for from 6 
to S hours; turn out and serve with brandy sauce. 
The spices and good things represent the gifts of 
the three kings of Cologne, who were said to be the 
wise men of the Star of Bethlehem fame; the paste 
is the casket enshrining the treasures. A Plum 
Pudding— J 4 lb. each suet, currants, sugar, y lb. 
each citron and candied orange peel, 6 oz. flour, 2 
oz. breadcrumbs, y lb. raisins, i teaspoon ground 
cinnamon, y nutmeg, i lemon rind and juice, i glass 
brand}', 4 eggs, little salt; boiled 5 or 6 hours. 

PLUM CAKE—Usually called fruit cake. With 
a pound cake mixture first prepared as a base, any 
desired amount of fruit may be added with or with¬ 
out spices, the color of the cake when done will be 
according to the spices and fruit contained. ( See 
Dimdee Cake.) Good Plum Cake—I s made of 
1 lb. butter, 1 lb. brown sugar, 9 eggs, 1lb. flour. 
1 b. currants, 1 lb. stoned raisins or seedless raisins 
chopped, y 2 lb. citron, 4 oz. almonds blanched and 
split, nutmeg, grated lemon rind, 1 glass whiskey; 
baked in a mould lined with buttered paper. 

PLUVIERS (Fr.)—Plovers. 

POACH—To cook in a pocket or pouch; to cook 
in a very little water. Poached Eggs —Cooked in 
a shallow pan of water in rings—muffin rings— 
which keep them in shape, or, cooked in more wa¬ 
ter which is made to rotate in the pan by stirring 
before the egg is dropped in, which carries the egg 
while the outside cooks in good shape. Poached 
Quenelles —Small balls of delicate forcemeat are 
poached in little broth, to be taken up easily at the 
right moment. Sometimes the surfaces of large 
quenelles are decorated and must be poached with¬ 
out the decoration being covered. 

POC 1 IE (Fr.) — Poached. CEufs Poches — 
Poached eggs. 

POELE — Same thing as mirepoix , except the 
color. Po€le is white or colorless broth of bacon 
and ham with vegetables, used to boil chickens, 
sweetbreads, etc., in instead of water. 

POIRES (Fr.)—Pears. 

POIREAUX (Fr.)—Leeks. 

POIS (Fr.)—Peas. 

POISSON (Fr.)—Fish. 

POISSONIERE (Fr.)—Fish-kettle with drainer 
in the bottom. 

POITRINE DE VEAU (Fr.)—Breast of veal. 
Poitrine de Veau Rotie —Plain roasted; brown 
sauce. Poitrine de Veau a la Printaniere— 
Breast of veal boned, stuffed, rolled up, braised; 
served with garnish of spring vegetables. 


POM 

POIVRE (Fr.)—Pepper. 

POIVRADE SAUCE—A peppery sharp sauce,- 
brown. (/) Espagnole with vinegar and broken 
pepper-corns boiled in it, and a spoonful of wine. 
(2) Carrot, onion, salt pork in dice, pepper-corns 
bruised, bay leaf, parsley, thyme; all fried in butter;, 
drained of butter; vinegar and brown sauce added, 
or, if no brown sauce, some brown butter-and-flour 
thickening and water; simmered, strained. 

POKE "WEED—A tall, showy American wild- 
plant which bears purple berries. The young leaves 
are gathered in spring for tender greens. The ber 
ries are used for domestic dyes. 

POLENTA—Italian corn-meal mush or porridge 
usually seasoned with grated cheese, butter, or to¬ 
mato sauce, or all of them. It is treated in many 
ways the same as macaroni, being baked with; cheese 
mixed in and on top. Polenta, or mush, is also made 
of chestnut flour and of wheat farina. Polenta 
Puddings —Same as American corn-meal puddings; 
hot mush with syrup, butter, eggs, fruit, cream; in 
several varieties. Polenta Emmanuel — Boil 1 
teacupful of Indian corn-meal, stirring till thor¬ 
oughly boiled; mix with, first, a small pat of melted 
butter and grated Parmesan cheese; serve very hot 
with a rich gravy flavored with tomatoes, and with 
roast larks or other small birds on top. 

POLONAISE ( a la)— In Polish style. 

POLPETTI—Italian croquettes of minced meat 
with cheese and other seasonings; fried. 

POMMES (Fr.)—Apples. 

POMME-DE-TERRE (Fr.) —Earth-apple; the 
potato. The full name is seldom used, and whether 
the word pomme in a bill of fare stands for apple or 
potato is to be judged from the context. Pommes 
Nouveaux —New potatoes. 

POMEGRANATE—A southern fruit of little 
utility, sufficiently plentiful in the southern markets; 
the fruit, however, is curious and peculiar and the 
subject of frequent mention in ancient books, while 
the small tree which bears it is a most charming or¬ 
nament to the gardens and pleasure grounds where 
it grows, bearing a profusion of showy blossoms in 
April and May. The fruit is a pulpy, many-seeded 
berry, the size of an orange, with a hard, brown 
shell. It is pink or red inside like some varieties of 
oranges. Pomegranate Water-Ice —Juice of 
pomegranates strained through a seive and the pips 
excluded, an equal quantity of strong sugar-syrup 
or glucose added, little lemon juice, orange rind, 
color to make it pink; frozen. 

POMEGRANATE MELON—Often called the 
pomegranate. It is a tiny green-rind melon, mottled 
like the pie-melon, and not larger than an orange. 
Inside it is pink with abundant small seeds, closely 
resembling the pomegranate. Although pleasantly 
flavored as a melon its small size precludes it from 
being grown except as a curiosity. 












406 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


POM 

POMPANO—Choice southern fish from i pound 
to 4 or 5 pounds in weight; shaped like the sunfish, 
-or “pumpkin-seed fish,” with very small scales, 
steel-gray color. It has a fine nutty flavor, which is 
best brought out by broiling. Served with mciitre 
d'hotel butter, lemon, fried parsley and fried pota¬ 
toes. 

PONCHE (Fr.)—Punch. 

POP-CORN—A small variety of Indian corn; the 
•grains burst and turn inside out when parched. 
There is a great difference in corn, and those who 
prepare it for sale test every sample in the popper 
before buying. It has to be kept a year before thor¬ 
oughly dry. A bushel of shelled corn will make 
nearly 4 barrels of popped corn. Pop-Corn Balls- 
If the corn is to be worked into balls, a mixture of 
sugar, glucose and gum is poured over it, a handful 
is taken up and pressed into shape like a snowball. 
The red pop-corn balls are colored with thin cochi¬ 
neal syrup on the hands of the operator. Pop-Corn 

• Cakes —If pop-corn cakes are to be made, the corn 
is moistened with hot syrup boiled to the crack, 
pressed out into sheets, cut into sections and wrapped 
in transparent paper. At the Centennial Exposition 
the company received $7,000 for the exclusive right 
to sell pop-corn. Candied Pop-Corn —Is made the 
■same way as comfits and sugared almonds by stir¬ 
ring it over a gentle fire in a tcandy-kettle, pouring 
syrup over it from time to time till it becomes lightly 
coated, the coloring being in .the syrup. Ground 
Pop-Corn for Breading— Croquettes egged and 
breaded with ground pop-corn have an appearance 
like snow covering a brown surface, as the pop-corn 

• does not take color readily. 

POPOVERS—Domestic name 'for a very light 
muffin made of 2 eggs, 2 cups milk, 2 cups flour, salt; 
a tablespoonful or two of melted butter may be added 
at option, but is not essential. The eggs whipped 
light are mixed with the milk and flour, the batter 
baked in buttered cups. The puffs rise high and 
hollow. Hot for breakfast. {See Albany Cakes.) 

PORGIES—Small fish abundant in New York 
markets. 

PORK—Roast pork should, like lamb, be well 
cooked, carefully and regularly baked; onion and 
apple sauce served in separate tureens. Leg of 
Pork— Laid in salt for 4 days, boiled until nearly 
done, baked to finish in a pan with stock and chili 
vinegar; gravy made in the pan. Pork Chops, Ap¬ 
ple Sauce —Chops breaded and broiled, paper frills 
put on ends of the bones, to ornament and to handle 
them at the table by; apple sauce in the dish, and 
chops around. Pork Collops- -Neat slices of cold 
roast leg of pork seasoned, broiled; served with 
mixture of onions and apples stewed together with 
wine. Pork Friture— Salt-pork slices soaked in 
:skimmed milk S hours, egged, rolled in flour and 
fried. SelledePorc Frais— Saddle of fresh pork. 
■Gigot de Porc a l’Allemande —Leg of salt pork 
boiled, with stewed red cabbage, carrots and tur- 


POR 

nips, and poivrade sauce. Carre de Porc a la 
Bemoulade —Roast rack of pork, with remoulade 
sauce with chopped pickles. Petit .Sale aux 
Ciioux— Salt pork with cabbage. Cotelettes de 
Porc a la Robert— Pork chops with Robert sauce. 
Cotelettes de Porc a la Bolognaise —Breaded 
pork chops with grated Parmesan mixed with the 
crumbs, fried; served with a garnish in center, of 
mushrooms, tongue, and short pieces of macaroni in 
tomato sauce. Filets de Porc a la Marechale- 
Are pork tenderloins cut in round slices, breaded and 
broiled; served with potato balls. Filets de Pork 
a la Hanoverienne — Pork tenderloins larded 
braised and glazed, dressed in a circle on dish with 
stewed white pickled cabbage in center, and brown 
sauce. Can have spinach or apple sauce instead of 
cabbage, and name according. Escalopes dePcrk 
a LA Lyonnaise —Pork tenderloin cut slantwise in 
oval slices, breaded, fried, dressed in a circle, cov¬ 
ered with Soubise puree of onions, bread-crumbs on 
top, and browned. Escalopes de Porc a l’Indi- 
enne —Tenderloin slices with curry sauce. Broiled 
Pork Tenderloins —(/) Split open, flattened, sea¬ 
soned with salt, pepper, powdered sage; broiled; 
served with a sauce made of the gravy from fried 
sausages. (2) Served with fried onions, (3) Served 
with fried apples. (4) Served with butter and fried 
sweet potatoes, (j) Served with maitre d'hotel but¬ 
ter and potato chips. Entrecote of Pork —Pork 
steak stuffed, rolled up and roasted or braised; onion 
sauce. Grenadins of Pork —Same as grenadins 
of veal. Potted Pork —Pork tenderloins cut small 
and pounded in a mortar, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, and sage and rosemary, or with spiced salt; 
mixed with some hot butter; packed in a jar and 
baked in slow oven; pressed down again when done, 
and grease drained off; eaten cold or in sandwiches. 
(See Backbone, Head Cheese , Echinee, Pig, Saus- 
ages.) 

PORPOISE—Sea-fish of the smooth-skinned sort. 
“Schools” of porpoises sport in shallow water near 
the shore and sometimes in advance of a vessel for 
days at a time. They are captured for their oil. 
Porpoise Steak —“The new delicacy in favor be¬ 
yond the Atlantic is porpoise steak. The world is 
overhauling its menu, and hunting up new dishes. 
Some one has suddenly thought of the porpoise, or, 
as the Americans call it, the sea-hog, and the result 
is a flesh-food described as exquisitely tender and 
tasty, with a grain as red and juicy as the best cut in 
a fillet-steak or sirloin. In flavor the porpoise re¬ 
sembles venison, and we are pretty sure to hear of it 
in London before long. If it is as good as reported, 
it should certainly take its place on the menus of 
marine hotels.” Dolphin Meat —“According to a 
Transatlantic paper, the flesh of the porpoise is sold 
in Philadelphia as a substitute for beef, under the 
name of ‘dolphin meat.’ It is described as red, juicy, 
tender, fine-grained, and of very pleasant flavor.”— 
“In the fifteenth century porpoises were brought 
whole to table, and were eaten with mustard.”— 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


407 


POR 

Porpoise on the Coals— An ancient bill of fare 
found in the British museum mentions among the 
courses of a grand dinner “Porpoise with Peas” 
and “ Porpoise Roasted on the Coals.” There is a 
record of Henry III ordering the sheriffs of London 
to purchase for him ioo pieces of the best whale, and 
two porpoises. Henry VIII gave occasion for some 
witticisms by his fondness for this archtype of obes¬ 
ity; if it was too large for a horse-load, an extra al¬ 
lowance was made to the purveyor. In Norway a 
delicate caviare has been made from its eggs. 

PORRIDGE—Proper name of “mush,” which is 
but a provincialism. Made of oatmeal, cornmeal, 
graham meal, fine hominy or grits, ground rice, 
farina, graham farina, cracked wheat, rolled oats, 
etc. Some of these need to be soaked in water for 
some hours before cooking. They are all made into 
porridge by simply boiling in the requisite quantity 
of water, and best if in a double kettle or bain-marie. 

PORTERHOUSE CUT—The best part of the 
loin of beef; the portion between the last rib and the 
hip bone. It is an American specialty, the name 
having originated in a hotel known as the Porter 
House. 

PORTERHOUSE STEAK —Steaks from the 
porterhouse cut of beef. They consist of a portion 
of the fillet or under-cut, a portion of the top loin; 
portion of the spine bone and little of the flank being 
therefore the best of the beef. The steaks are small 
and narrow at the rib end, and broader towards the 
"butt. 

POSSUM—See Oppossum. 

POTAGE—.See Soups. Potage, like English pot¬ 
tage, signifies a thick soup, and consomme a thin or 
clear. Sonp includes all descriptions. 

POT-AU-FEU—Fire pot; the French national 
soup. Pot-au-Feu Bourgeois —“The French na¬ 
tional dish is unquestionably the world-famed pot- 
au-feu , and there is hardly a Frenchman, rich or 
poor, who does not partake of that savory and nour¬ 
ishing preparation at least once a week. This soup, 
simple as it is, cannot be made properly anywhere 
but in France, and the assertion, strange as it seems, 
will be corroborated by all who have tasted it. The 
meat that has been used to make the soup is eaten 
•afterwards, in conjunction with the vegetables that 
were boiled in the pot. The pot-au-feu is made gen¬ 
erally in an earthen vessel, used only for the purpose. 
The meat is put in cold water with a little salt, and 
set on the fire. When the liquid begins to boil, the 
pot is drawn back, and the contents allowed to sim¬ 
mer as gently as possible for 4 hours. The quantity 
of meat employed is 1 lb. to 1 qt. of water. When 
the ebullition begins, care must be taken to remove 
all the scum that rises to the surface. The vegeta¬ 
bles consist of carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, celery, 
and cabbages. A brown onion ( oignon brule) boiled 
in the pot improves the flavor as well as the color of 
the soup. A few minutes before serving the soup 
the meat i$ taken out of the pot, and the broth is 


POT 

strained through a very fine strainer into the soup- 
tureen, which should contain some very thin slices 
of stale bread.” Croute-au-Pot— “Such is the rec¬ 
ipe for the pot-au-feu bourgeois, as it is served in 
every small French family; but if required for a din¬ 
ner recherche it changes its name on the menu and is 
called croute-au-pot. In this latter case a fowl and 
a knuckle of veal are added to make the broth; the 
vegetables are cut of an even form, and the slices of 
bread are replaced by the crust of 2 or 3 French rolls 
cut the size and shape of half a pigeon’s egg. These 
crusts are fried in some of the clear grease skimmed 
from the top of the broth, and are handed round on 
a plate when the soup is served.” Poule-au-Pot— 
“King Henry IV was alluding to the pot-an-feu 
when he said, in his manifesto to the people of 
France, that if he lived long enough, his ambition 
was to see every peasant in his kingdom prosperous 
enough to be able to have a fowl in his pot every 
Sunday.”—‘Experienced housewives insist that any 
contact with metal is sure to spoil the flavor; it is 
the earthen pot, well seasoned, on which everything 
depends. In this,earthen pot, then, the French cook 
will place only thfe best and freshest meat, the ten- 
derest and most delicate vegetables; onions and pep¬ 
per, those stumbling-blocks of the inexperienced 
cook, are eschewed altogether, a young leek sup¬ 
planting the onion in the pot-arc-feu, at least 
with dainty feeders.. No single flavor should pre¬ 
dominate.” 

POTATO — “The potato is not in France the 
homely esculent that it is on this side the ocean. 
There are as many ways of preparing it as there were 
in Goldsmith’s time of cooking a nettle-top. Pota¬ 
toes are oniy admitted en robe de ci.ambre , that is to 
say, in their jackets, to the midday meal, and then 
on unceremonious occasions. They chiefly figure at 
dejeuners intimes , or dejeuners taken at restaurants 
where the bifteck auxpommes and la cotelette a la 
puree de p>omme de terre are in great favor.” — 
Pommes Georgette— Specialty of M. Joseph, of 
the Cafe Paillard. “These are potatoes en surprise. 

I take a potato and hollow it out, filling the hollow 
with a salpicon of shrimp-tails drenched in a bisque 
sauce made of the heads and pounded bodies of the 
shrimps. Then I cover the potato up and bake it in 
cinders. It comes to table baked and burnt. I called 
it Georgette, because I created it on the day of the 
first night of Victorien Sardou’s play of that name 
at the Vaudeville Theatre. Sardou’s play ran only 
ninety nights. My Georgette has had an unlimited 
run.” Pommes de Terre aux CEufs —Specialty. 
“For serving with cold meat, etc., potatoes cooked 
after the following recipe, given me by a Parisian 
chef, are very suitable. The recipe is for pommes de 
terre aux ceufs. Put a good-sized lump of butter into 
your pan; as soon as it is hot, brown some onions in 
it. Cut some cold potatoes, which have been boiled 
in their skins, and afterwards peeled, into slices. 
Throw these slices into the pan. Spread over them 
the w§lj-whipped yellow of two eggs. Salt, pepper, 









408 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


POT 

and serve when your potatoes have taken a nice 
brown color on each side.” Pommes Hongroises- 
‘‘I discovered these to be the pommes a la lyonnaise 
—slices of boiled potato fried with onion and baked 
in the oven. At this restaurant, however, the pota ¬ 
toes are sprinkled with a little grated cheese before 
they are put into the oven. A decided improvement. 
The garnish of minced parsley remains, of course, 
indispensable.” Pommes a la Maire —Specialty. 
Potatoes cut in rounds, boiled until barely done in 
salted water, drained, put into cream which has been 
reduced to a state of condensed richness by evapora¬ 
tion in a steam vessel. “It is the reduction of the 
cream to one-half its volume that is the special and 
essential feature of the recipe for potatoes a la 
Maire , and it is to this special treatment they owe 
that excellence which constitutes them the leading 
specialty of Maire’s Restaurant.” Hash Cream 
Potatoes —Hash cream potatoes is an acceptable 
breakfast dish if hot potatoes are used; but cold po¬ 
tatoes have a disagreeable flavor, which spoils the 
dish. Cut three warm boiled potatoes into small 
even pieces, add them to half a pint of boiled cream 
and a saltspoonful of salt. Put the mixture into a 
small tin or baking dish; strew lightly over the top 
a thin layer of bread-crumbs or grated cheese; add a 
pat of butter, and bake a delicate brown. Anna 
Potatoes —A specialty at Delmonico’s renowned 
New York restaurants. Cut very thin slices right 
across the largest potatoes; lay the slices in flat laj^- 
ers on a small plate that will bear the heat of the 
oven. Spread fresh butter freely over the potatoes; 
then add another layer, and so on until the potatoes 
are about four inches high. “ Delmonico’s ” recipe 
gives y 2 lb. fresh butter to 2 large potatoes. Bake 
until the potatoes are tender, about half an hour, in 
a quick oven. Potatoes a la Bonne Bouche— 
Slice some boiled potatoes; chop a blade of shallot, 
also a little parsley very fine; place them in a stewpan 
with 3 oz. of butter and a pinch of mixed sw r eet 
herbs; let simmer slowly 5 minutes, then put in the 
potatoes, sprinkle some seasoning over them, and let 
simmer gently for 10 minutes, occasionally stirring 
to prevent burning. Just before serving squeeze the 
juice of 1 lemon over the potatoes. Potato Cro¬ 
quettes — Steamed dry potatoes with salt, little 
butter and yolks added; mashed; rolled to shape of 
bottle corks, egged, rolled in cracker dust, fried in 
hot lard; served with fish and entrees. Potatoes a 
la Duchesse —(/) Same preparation as potato cro¬ 
quettes; made into thick roll, sliced off, slices on a 
floured board patted into leaf shapes, marked with 
back of a knife, washed over with egg, baked light 
color; served with fish or entrees. ( 2 ) Large cold 
boiled potatoes sliced, cut with a wetted tin cutter, 
salted, egged over, baked. Potatoes a la Vic¬ 
toria —Same preparation as potato croquettes made 
into round balls, egged over, baked light color in 
quick oven. Potatoes a la Gastronome —Pota¬ 
toes cut raw into shape of bottle corks with a tube 
cutter, boiled barely done in salted water, drained 


POT 

out, finished by frying in hot lard quickly, light 
color, dredged with fine salt and parsley dust. Po¬ 
tatoes a la Monaco —Potato cut raw into shape of 
silver half-dollars or little thicker, cooked same as 
a la gastronome. Potatoes a la Julienne —Cut 
raw into very fine shreds like straws, fried quickly 
in hot lard, dredged with salt and parsley dust. 
Curly Potatoes —Cut raw with a kind of paring 
machine into long spirals, fried by throwing into 
kettle of hot lard; salt and parsley dust. Potatoes 
a la Serpentine —An instrument like a cork-screw 
with auger in center goes through a potato and 
makes a cord of potato like the strand of an un¬ 
twisted rope; these smooth spiral cords are fried as 
usual; served as garnish to fish or entrees. Pommes 
a l’Anglaise —Boiled in their skins, peeled, cut in 
quarters if large, shaken up in a hot dish with soft 
butter, salt and parsley dust; sent in hot with the 
butter poured over. Pommes be Terre en Che¬ 
mise — Potatoes in their jackets. Pommes a la 
Maitre d’IIotel —Boiled, cut in quarters in hot 
mai.re d’hotel sauce. Pommes a la Creme au 
Gratin- Boiled sliced in white sauce with Parmesan 
cheese, bread-crumbs on top, browned in the oven. 
Pommes au Lard -Stewed potatoes with bits of 
bacon in the sauce. Pommes a la Creme —Pota¬ 
toes in cream sauce; same as “hash cream potatoes” 
above. Pommes Sautes —Boiled potatoes cut in 
slices, fried in a frying pan with, butter or sausage 
fat, salt, white pepper, no onions. Pommes a la 
Macaire— “Shoestring” fried potatoes,, made by 
cutting potatoes raw into- one unbroken string; 
there are machines for it. Pommes- Soufflees— 
Baked in their skins, the potato- mixed with butter, 
Parmesan cheese, eggs, salt, putbacdcinto the skins, 
set on end in a pan- and- browned,. Pommes Far¬ 
cies a l’Italienne —Like-soufflees preceding, but 
the potato pulp mixed, with-rice and cheese. Pom¬ 
mes Nouvelles a la Creme — New potatoes in 
cream sauce. Potato< Quenelles — The potato 
croquette preparation, in small balls, rolled in plenty 
of flour and fried quickly before they burst, as they 
will if the fat be not hot enough. Puree de Pom¬ 
mes a la Maria. —Mashed potatoes quite soft with, 
cream and butter. Pommes en Surprise— “Be¬ 
fore I close I’ll give publicitj' to a tasty recipe for- 
cooking a potato (and “fixings”)-which reaches me 
from Newfoundland: Bake large potatoes in theirr 
skins till three-quarters done, nearly cut off one- 
end; with a fork hollow out the center of the potato 
and fill in the hollow with a shaving of broiled 
bacon, peppered and tightly rolled;, close the potato- 
by the lid end, bake for 5 minutes..” Pommes a la 
Bignon — Boiled potatoes in their skins, peeled: 
when cold; inside hollowed and filled with mutton 
mince highly seasoned, end closed with piece of 
potato, browned in butter in the oven. Pommes a. 
la Reitz— French fried potatoes. Pommes a la¬ 
bor delaise— Cut thin like chips, fried soft, taken, 
up into frying pan and finished with butter, onion„ 
parsley fried together. Pommes a la Braban- 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


409 


POT 

•Conne— Dish of baked mashed potatoes in which 
parboiled onions and parsley and cheese are mixed; 
Frowned in the oven. Pommes a la V illageoise 
—Hash-cream potatoes. Pommes a la Bretonne 
—Cold boiled, in blocks fried with onions; brown 
sauce. Pommes a la Colbert— Cold boiled, in 
blocks simmered in brown sauce with parsley. 
Pommes a la Navarroise — Raw, cut in large 
blocks, parboiled, fried light color in oil. Pommes 
a la Rouennaise —Preparation as for potato cro¬ 
quettes; in very small balls dipped in batter and 
Fried like fritters. Pommes Croustades a la Re- 
gente —Potato croquettes, one end cut off and part 
•of inside hollowed out, filled with patty mixture of 
lobster, etc., end replaced, served standing upright. 
Pommes a la Hollandaise— Cut raw into shape 
of sections of orange, boiled barely done, drained, 
shaken up with butter, salt and parsley dust. Long 
Branch Potatoes — Long strings cut with ma¬ 
chine, fried. Fried Puff Potatoes — French 
fried, cooked slowly while the fat gradually cools, 
drained, thrown at once into very hot fat and 
browned. They puff out; to be served as soon as 
done. Saratoga Chips — Sliced raw extremely 
thin with a machine, washed and steeped in water 
for the starch to settle, drained, fried curly and crisp 
in plenty of hot lard; fine salt dredged over. “At 
the bakery it was learned that the concern has a 
monopoly of the business in this city, and that there 
are only three makers of Saratoga chips in the coun - 
try. Chips are an American institution, and are 
not known abroad save from some small lots that 
have been exported. The process of manufactur 
ing is in part a secret. The potatoes are peeled and 
sliced by machinery. They are washed and then 
dried between muslin cloths. If they were now 
fried, the amount of starch that they contain would 
make them brown, and the secret of the business is 
-to remove all of the starch, so that the chips will be 
perfectly white. When this is done they are put 
into the hot grease, and come out curled and crisp 
and with the delicious flavor that has made them 
famous the world over.” Broiled Potatoes— 
Cold boiled or raw potatoes either can be broiled 
and buttered while broiling. French Fried Po¬ 
tatoes— Raw, cut in 12 or more strips lengthwise, 
thrown into hot lard, fried light brown and dry, 
fine salt. Stuffed Potatoes — Baked in their 
skins, part of inside removed, seasoned with cheese 
and butter, put back and end replaced. Potatoes 
a la Parisienne —Potato balls scooped out of raw 
potatoes with a “potato spoon” in size of cherries, 
fried in hot lard. Potatoes a la Conde— Balls 
twice as large as the preceding, boiled barely done, 
finished by frying very light color in hot lard; fine 
salt and parsley dust. Browned Potatoes a 
l’Anglaise —Balls size of crab apples formed with 
the largest “potato spoon” to imitate new potatoes, 
but all precisely alike, parboiled, finished in a pan 
with roast meat fat in the oven. Pommes a la 
Brebant —Large dice cut from cold boilded pota- 


POT 

toes, sauteed in frying pan with minced onion; salt 
and parsley. Lyonnaise Potatoes —Sliced cold 
boiled potatoes in a frying pan with minced onion 
in butter or fat; salt, pepper and chopped parsley 
added while frying. Potatoes a la Militaire— 
Croquette preparation in small balls fried. More 
of same formed in a tin mould like a conical tent 
and the center of it filled with minced chicken; the 
tent turned out in center of dish, egged over, 
browned, and cannon balls piled around it with 
decorations of green. 

POTATO SOUPS—See Soups. 

POTATO SALADS—See Salads. 

POTATOES IN SWEET DISHES'—Noth¬ 
ing in the domestic history of the potato is more 
curious than the slow degrees by which cooks came 
to treat the tuber as a savory and not as a sweet dish 
—as an accompaniment to the strongest meats in¬ 
stead of a kind of confectionery. Houghton, writ¬ 
ing in 16S1, speaks of the potato as a pleasant food 
which may be eaten boiled or roasted with butter 
and sugar. That he means our common potato is 
plain, because in the same paragraph he alludes to 
another and longer kind, the sweet potato, or “bat- 
tata.” Eleven years 'before Houghton’s “Collec¬ 
tions” appeared, however, Mistress Hannah Wolley 
had dedicated to the “Truly Virtuous Mrs. Grace 
Buzby, daughter of the late Sir Henry Cary, Knight 
Banneret, and wife of Mr. Robert Buzby, Gentle¬ 
man and Woollendraper in London,” her “ Queen¬ 
like Closet or Rich Cabinet stored with all manner 
of Rare Receipts in Preserving, Candying, and 
Cookery.” The worthy Hannah has a solitary re¬ 
ference to the“Solanum Tuberosum”: it is a rec¬ 
ipe for making a potato-pie. You are to have your 
pie-dish and crust ready and “lay in butter,” and 
then “your potatoes boiled very tender,” with whole 
spice and marrow, dates, and the yolks of hard eggs, 
blanched almonds, pistachio nuts, “candied peels of 
citron, orange and lemon.” Then the crust of the 
potato-pie is to be closed, and, when baked, the dish 
is to be served with wine, butter and sugar. Writ¬ 
ing nearly eighty years afterwards, Mrs. Hannah 
Glasse, in her “Art of Cookery,” prescribes among 
the ingredients of a potato pudding, eggs, sugar, 
butter, nutmeg, currants, half a pint of sack, and a 
pint of cream. Potato Cake —This is very simple; 
steamed potato mashed up, a little flour and butter 
worked in, with sugar, currants, sultanas, and chop¬ 
ped peel. Form it into a rather soft dough. Roll 
it out to the size of a dinner-plate, and about an inch 
and a half or two inches thick. Place it on a greased 
baking sheet, mark it across with the back of the 
knife into eight or sixteen divisions; wash the sur¬ 
face over with egg, bake, slip it on to a plate, dust 
over with pulverised sugar, and serve hot. Ameri¬ 
can Potato Pie —Steamed potatoes mashed, mixed 
with butter, sugar, eggs, nutmeg and sherry, baked 
like a custard in a pie plate lined with paste, no top 
crust, fine sugar over when done. (See Sunet Pota¬ 
toes. ) 







410 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


POT 

POTATO PASTY—A meat pie having a bottom 
and top crust of mashed potatoes instead of flour 
paste. 

POTATO FLOUR—Potato flour is extensively 
manufactured in Germany, and is used by sausage 
makers, bakers, confectioners, and cooks for pow¬ 
dering purposes. Weaving establishments use it to 
give their goods a glossy appearance, and to size the 
threads in the woof. It is also used in the manufac¬ 
ture of starch, potato sugar, and white syrup. 

POTATO STARCH—The potato starch which 
settles at the bottom of the tub of water in which 
large qualities of Saratoga chip potatoes are steeped 
is saleable to candy makers. It may be washed over 
again in clear water as starch does not dissolve in 
water that is cold; when settled again the water 
can be poured off and the starch then dried and 
powdered. It is used in shallow trays to receive 
the imprints of fancy bon-bons and creams, these 
being the moulds into which the new-made candy 
is poured. 

POTATO POISON—“ No one should buy their 
potatoes of grocerymen who let them stand in front 
of their stores in the sun. Potatoes belong to the 
‘ Solanum’ family, of which the deadly nightshade 
is one of its full brothers. All branches of the fami¬ 
ly contain more or less of that poisonous narcotic 
called ‘solanine.’ The bulb, or potato, contains the 
least of this, unless they are exposed to the sun, 
which rapidly develops this element.” Potatoes 
which have been so exposed have an acrid, bitter 
taste and bite the palateJike mustard. But they are 
not past recovery. Let them be buried in the earth 
two feet deep for several weeks and they come out 
equal to newly-dug tubers, well-flavored and whole¬ 
some. 

POTATO SPIRIT—We are told by the French 
authorities, and we have no reason to doubt the 
veracity of their statements, that nearly one-half of 
the brandy imported into Her Imperial Majesty’s 
British domains is nothing more or less than potato 
spirit—one of the very worst and fiery of spirits, 
heretofore supposed only to be used by absinthe- 
makers of the most unprincipled type. The modus 
operandi of its preparation for the British market is 
somewhat similar to the treatment employed in the 
making of saw r dust brandy from the sawpit refuse, 
and the dust of pine and fir trees. The potato un¬ 
dergoes treatment with sulphuric acid and water to 
develop or change the dextrin into grape sugar 
This, after many hours’ boiling, is mixed with a cer¬ 
tain proportion of lime, which causes a precipitate, 
and destroys or changes the sulphuric acid taste and 
qualities. It is then fermented with sound malt 
leaven for about three days, when it is distilled, giv¬ 
ing an abundant yield of pure spirit of the strongest 
and most virulent type. 

POTIRONS (Fr.)—Vegetable marrows; same as 

girautnons. 


PRA 

POT HERBS—The soup bunch sold by market 
gardeners. 

POTTED MEATS—They are of two classes, 
(i) The pasted meats like the potted tongue, ham, 
etc., sold in cans at the fancy grocery stores. (2) 
Hot or cold meats cooked by slow baking in x 
Covered jar, same as English jugged meats. ( See 
Potted Hare, 'Jugged Meats.) 

POTTED CHAR—“While you can obtain pot¬ 
ted char in London, do not dream of a journey to 
Worcester for the sake of lampreys. This charm¬ 
ing fish, the poisson rouge of St. Evremond, is 
without question the most exquisite breakfast lux¬ 
ury we possess; it stands far in advance of all pot¬ 
ted things, and our minor poets should lay the fact 
to heart that it was after a meal of char that Words¬ 
worth wrote his “Ode to Immortality”—fit product 
of the ethereal feast.” 

POULE-AU-POT SOCIETY —Association of 
Paris hotel and restaurant keepers for social pur¬ 
poses, the name having reference to the national 
soup. 

POULE-AU-POT—Chicken pot; the richer pot- 
au-feu. {See Pot-au-Feu.) 

POULET (Fr.)—Pullet. 

POULETTE, SALTCE—Cream-colored, made of 
broth or strained chicken liquor thickened with flour 
and butter and then with yolks. Parsley and lemon 
juice to finish. It is Allemande sauce with parsley* 

POULARD (Fr.)—Female capon. 

POUND CAKE—See Madeira, Genoise. The 
same sort made of 1 lb. sugar, y x lb. butter, 10 eggs, 

1 lb. flour. Pound cake is the familiar American 
term while the other names and variations of quality 
are little known. 

POUSSIN (Fr.)—Spring chicken. Petits Pous¬ 
sins —Very young chickens. 

PRAIRIE HEN—Ruffed grouse. For ways of 
cooking see grouse. The prairie hen is abundant 
in the Western states, gathering in flocks of 50 or 
more in the neighborhood of corn fields. This bird 
is very much better when cooked in its simplest 
manner than if overseasoned with artificial flavors. 
It is generally served in the restaurants split open 
and broiled like a chicken, with butter and currant 
jelly. One bird is generally enough for two por¬ 
tions if full grown. However, only young birds 
should be broiled, the old ones may be potted or 
made into pies. The breast of the prairie hen is the- 
principal part of it, and is very solid meat. Prai¬ 
rie Hen Pie— Prairie hens are very good in a pie. 
Choose two plump birds, pluck, draw and wipe, 
them; cut off the legs at the first joint, and remove 
the heads; season them inside with pepper, salt, 
butter, and minced parsley mixed together. Line a 
pie-dish with slices of ham and seasoning of pepper 
and salt; put the birds into the dish, add more slices 
of ham, pour over them half a pint of good beef 
stock; line the edges of the dish with puff paste, and 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 4H< 


PRA 

cover over with it; brush over with yolk of egg, 
and bake in a not too fierce oven. Roast Prairie 
Hen— “Prairie hens, grey hens, black game, ptar¬ 
migan, and capercailzie are in season. The first 
named are excellent eating, and better plainly roast¬ 
ed than cooked by any other method.” 

PRAIRIE OYSTER—A raw egg broken in a 
bar glass, vinegar and pepper on it, taken raw. 

PRAIRIE DOG—“This bold gastronomist, in¬ 
stead of being offended at the idea, thought that 
he would see what prairie-dog was like. He shot 
two, had them cooked, and liked them so much that 
he got through the bulk of the brace at one sitting. 
His son, he says, had a prejudice against eating 
dog, but he overcame his prejudice sufficiently to 
taste the dish, and the result was that he finished it.” 

PRAWNS — A larger kind of shrimp. The 
canned shrimps so-called are prawns. These grow 
to an extraordinary size on the coast of the Gulf of 
Mexico, some specimens reaching a length of S or 9 
inches without the horns and being large enough to 
cut in lengths after being divested of their shells. 
Prawns can be cooked in a variety of ways and are 
excellent plain to eat cold. Nearly all the ways of 
preparing lobsters and crayfish for the table are 
suitable for prawns, as in patties, pies, salads, as¬ 
pics, curries, soups, stews and gumbo. ( See Cre- 
vettes , Chevrettes , Crevettes- Bones. 

PRETZELS—“After many inquiries, I have at 
last discovered the address of the bakery in Paris 
which supplies such brasseries as Dreher’s, Vetzel, 
etc., with the thirst-provoking Bretzel. It is a firm 
of Alsatian origin, the founder of which introduced 
this insidious pastry into Paris. This house has al¬ 
most exclusively the Bretzel trade in its hands, and 
does a colossal businees, for the Bretzel is now as 
popular with French beer drinkers as it is beyond 
the Rhine. Six vans are continually engaged in de¬ 
livery. The firm also deals in ox muzzle, a favorite 
specialty for salads, Munster chee e, and black 
bread.” These Bretzels are commonly called Pret¬ 
zels in this country. They are made of common 
bread dough well baked as if for crackers. They 
are dropped first into boiling lye, when, if just 
proved enough they sink for y 2 minute and then 
rise. They are taken out, salt sprinkled over them, 
and then baked. 

PRINTANIERE ( a la) — With young spring 
vegetables, asparagus points in particular. 

PROFITEROLLES — One of the three or four 
names attached to the hollow puffs popularly known 
as cream puffs, or cream cakes; the variations in the 
fillings and flavorings are, however, numerous. 
The profiterolles are small like walnuts when baked 
and hollow, and are either served in soup or rolled 
in syrup and chopped almonds, etc. (SeeQueen Frit¬ 
ters.) 

PRUNES—French plums, well known in the 
dried state. They are used stewed for supper fruit 


PUD 

and can be made into puddings, roly-polys, pies,, 
and mixed in cakes. 

PRUNELLES—Small prunes of an acid nature 
produced in California, used as stewed fruit. 

PTARMIGAN—The white grouse, white only 
in winter. Otherwise called spruce grouse. It in¬ 
habits high, mountainous regions. Its flesh tastes 
of the spruce leaves upon which it feeds, but not 
unpleasantly. Cooked as grouse and prairie hens. 

PUDDINGS—A number of the old standard pud¬ 
dings can be found described under the respective let¬ 
ters ; the list to follow here are names likely to be met 
with in French bills of fare. Whence Comes Pud- 
DiNG-“English ‘sweets’ have an acknowledged place 
of honor in the science halls of the greatest French 
chefs. Le pouding is ‘the pudding,’ nothing more, 
nothing less; English by its name and English by 
its nature.” Pouding aux Pommes —Apple pud¬ 
ding of alternate layers of bread crumbs and 
stewed apples. Pouding aux Marrons —Chest¬ 
nut pudding. Pouding aux Figues — Fig pud¬ 
ding. Pouding au Riz —Rice pudding. Pouding 
au Gingembre— Ginger pudding. Pouding au 
Chocolat —Made of sponge cake crumbled, moist¬ 
ened with raw chocolate custard, steamed. Pou¬ 
ding aux Caramel - A mould or individual small 
moulds are coated inside with candy made by melt¬ 
ing sugar over the fire without water; the moulds 
are then filled with strong custard or other suitable 
mixture and steamed. When turned out the cara¬ 
mel coating comes with it and serves as sauce, as it 
is nearly dissolved. Pouding a la Marmelade— 
A marmalade of any variety. Pouding au Biscuit 
de Savoie —A sponge cake pudding with brandy 
poured into it. Pouding au Pain —Bread pudding 
of any of the numerous varieties. Pouding au 
Pain Bis —Brown bread pudding. Pouding aux 
Abricots —An apricot pudding or apricot cream 
tart. Pouding a la Victoria —A variety of plum, 
pudding with dried cherries instead of raisins. Pou¬ 
ding au Macaroni —Macaroni pudding. Pou¬ 
ding au Vermicelle —Vermicelli pudding. Pou¬ 
ding a la C reme de Riz —Ground rice pudding. 
Pouding au Tapioca —Tapioca pudding. Pouding 
au Sagou— Sago pudding. Pouding a l’Ananas 
—Pineapple pudding or cream tart; Pouding au 
Citron —Lemon pudding. Pouding de Cabinet — 
Cabinet pudding. Pouding Genoise —A jelly roll 
made of a sheet of genoise cake roiled up with jam. 
Tansy PuDDiNG-“Of all the old-fashioned, simple- 
hearted old puddings formerly common, even in 
London eating-houses, cowslip and tansy were the 
most characteristic. Shakespeare no doubt partook 
of both of them. In both cases the tansy and cow¬ 
slip have about as much to do with the puddings as 
the flint stone has with the proverbial broth. The 
pounded tansies are mixed with eggs and cream, 
spinach-juice, Naples buiscuits, sugar, white wine, 
and nutmegs. The mixture is thickened over the 
fire, then put into a dish lined with paste and baked. 








412 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


PUF 

This may not sound well, nevertheless it was a cur¬ 
rent pudding—we mean a popular pudding—not so 
many years ago.” Pouding Diplomatique — 
Diplomatic pudding. A cold cream ornamented in 
a mould. It is made like jaune-mange, or velvet 
cream, or Italian cream; a yolk of egg custard with 
gelatine in it enough to solidify it when ice cold, 
and flavored with brandy and vanilla. The mould 
is coated with clear wine jelly by turning it about 
on ice and decorated with candied fruits stuck on 
the cooling jelly. More candied fruits are mixed in 
the yellow cream which is then poured in to fill up 
the mould. Pouding de Cabinet Glace — The 
same yellow cream with gelatine in it as for Diplo¬ 
matic, but the mould-lined with lady fingers like a 
.charlotte, on the sides and the bottom covered with 
ratafias. Thick cream mixed with the gelatine cus¬ 
tard. All set in ice and turned out and served very 
.cold, with whipped cream. Pouding Souffle a 
la Princesse —Mellow yolk of egg custard made 
Avith cream as for Diplomatic, then mixed with 
apcicot marmalade diluted with orange juice. When 
nearly cold some Avhipped whites mixed in, set on 
ice in a mould. In all ithese there should be i oz. 
gelatine to each quart. With too much gelatine the 
compositions are hard and leathery, with too little 
ithey will not keep shape. {For other puddings see 
Ices.) 

PUFFS—Two distinct sets of pastries are under - 
.stood by this designation: puff-paste tarts,turn- 
.overs, vol-au-v.eqts, Banburys, Coventries and the 
like on the one ihand and on >the other a variety of 
cakes made of peties-choux paste, represented by 
cream puffs and eclairs. A score or more different 
cakes are included in this class, mostly baked, but 
some are fried, as Spanish puffs. 

PUITS (Fr.)—Wells. Applied to tartlets of puff- 
paste Avhich are tall and have a cavity in the center. 
Petits Puits D’AMOUR^-Little Love’s wells; tall 
puff tartlets filled with -jelly. 

PULLED BREAD — Ip most good establish¬ 
ments “ pulled bread ” .is served with cheese, it be¬ 
ing an acceptable substitute for the usual bread or 
buiscuits. Pull a loaf while steaming hot apart— 
pull, not cut; take a fork and dig out pieces of the 
hot bread the size of large nuts, leaving them rocky. 
Place these “snaps” back ,in the oven, and leave 
them until nicely brown. Do not, however, let 
them harden too much, or they will be almost un¬ 
beatable instead of being nicely crisp. A stale loaf 
may be treated in the same Avay, but the “snaps” 
will not be quite so nice. 

PUMPKIN—One of the American specialties. 
P.mpkin Vine Greens — Real spinach is, of 
course, out of the question in July, August, and 
September, but several toothsome substitutes are 
obtainable. For instance, a glorious dish of sum¬ 
mer spinach may be obtained by pinching out the 
growing points of pumpkin vinesttwo or three inches 
Li length. Thesq, .when cooked and served as 


QUA 

spinach, are of the loveliest emerald-green color, and 
most delicious flavor. 

PUMPKIN PIES— One quart of sifted pumpkin, 
one quart of rich SAveet milk, 12 eggs, J 4 pound of 
butter, 1 pound of sugar, 2 grated nutmegs, 4 spoon¬ 
fuls of rose Avater. Bake the mixture in a puff- 
paste in pie pans. Pumpkin Butter —Marmalade 
made by steAving doAvn pumpkin Avith sugar or light 
molasses, ginger to flaA’or. Baked Pumpkin— (1) 
Slices in a baking pan Avith salt and roast meat fat 
baked until tender. (2) Southern Avay, slices in a 
baking pan Avith sugar and butter baked Avith fre¬ 
quent basting. (3) Sections of pumpkin not peeled, 
baked Avithout any addition, served like baked po¬ 
tatoes. Mashed Pumpkin — Steamed or baked, 
mashed like potatoes, and broAvned in the oven. 
Dried Pumpkin —Thin slices hung upon strings 
and dried form a regular article of merchandise at 
some country stores; the “pumpkin chips” only 
need soaking in Avater to be as good as Avhen fresh 
for making pumpkin pies. Canned Pumpkin —Can 
be bought for hotel use in every town. Pumpkin 
Bread— Steamed and mashed pumpkin is used in 
some sections to mix Avith corn meal or meal and 
flour to make a SAA'eetish kind of cake. 

PUNCH—Said to be named from a AA'ord signi¬ 
fying five, because of its five ingredients: sugar, 
lemons, spirit, Avater, spice. ( See Drinks, Ices, 
Spirits..) Punch and Turtle— “Punch is cer¬ 
tainly too strong and tasteful Avith turtle soup, thick 
or thin, and it is barbarous and old-fashioned to 
drink it. It impairs the sensibility of the palate for 
all Avines aftenvards. If Avine must be drunk at the 
turtle stage of a dinner, perhaps fine madeira or 
sherry is least objectionable.” 

PUREE—Mashed ingredients rubbed through a 
sieve or a colander. 

PURSLANE—A garden A\ r eed Avith thick, fleshy 
stalks and leaA-es; it groAvs prostrate and spreads 
over the ground in rich soil. Is eaten in European 
countries. Pourpier en Friture a la Milanaise 
—FTied purslane. It is punctured and rolled in cin¬ 
namon, dipped in batter and fried. 

PYROLIGNEOUS ACID—Used in sugar boil¬ 
ing to prevent graining and is said to give better 
keeping qualities to the candy than the other acids 
used. This acid also preserves meat from spoiling; 
it is the principle in smoke Avhich cures bacon and 
sausages. 

QUAILS — Plentiful in almost eA-ery American 
market in the Avinter season, and the standard dish 
is broiled quail on toast. This habit or custom in 
regard to the cooking, although, of course, sponta¬ 
neous in its origin, is strictly in accord Avith the A*er- 
dict of cultivated epicures upon the merits of the 
quail. Three Ways— “There are in Paris, in the 
cuisines both of the best restaurants and of private 
houses, three approved Avays of cooking quails, 






413 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


QUA 

namely, as cailles a la macedoine, cailles an riz, and 
roasted. Of these various ways I greatly prefer the 
latter, as I think, and you will doubtless agree with 
me, that the quail, and especially the vine-quail, can 
stand very well on its own merits of flavor alone. 
The quail is at its best when roasted without the 
addition of a hundred-and-one kickshaws, however 
savory and intrinsically meritorious these kickshaws 
may be.” Roast Quail— “The best recipe for roast¬ 
ing quails, and serving them, is one copied from the 
Cooks’ School ( Ecole des Cuisiniers'), which I accord¬ 
ingly reproduce with a strong recommendation. 
Scorch your quails, clean and restore livers, spit 
them through the thighs with a little spit, with a 
small slice of crustless bread between each bird; 
secure the roast with a skewer passed through 
each end of the spit; butter the quails with a brush; 
roast before a sharp fire, basting them carefully for 
jo minutes, which is sufficient time to allow for the 
roasting; salt them and take them off the spit, serv¬ 
ing on a hot dish with the bastings for sauce poured 
over them, and surrounded with slices of lemon.” 
Vine Quails - “Egypt is the great source of supply, 
but for quality and size the quails of Italy bear off 
the palm, and epicures discover in them what they 
call the ‘Amontillado flavor,’ which is attributable 
to the birds’ feeding on the succulent shoots of the 
vine. 1 he^e birds should not be dressed in any other 
fashion than roasted or enpapillotes. The quail, fair 
in form, pleasant in color, and delicate in flavor, is 
utterly spoilt if plunged in an}' liquid, for so evanes¬ 
cent is the distinctive taste of the bird, that a sharp 
tire alone will prevent it from evaporating.”— 
■Cailles de ViGNE-“One of the sights of the streets 
of Paris to-day are the hand-carts full of live quails 
■{cailles de vigtie) which are wheeled about by itin¬ 
erant poulterers. The quails are covered in with a 
wire netting, through which the customer selects 
those that promise the most succulence. The birds 
are usually taken home and killed just before cook¬ 
ing. The price of a plump quail is 20 cents, while a 
very fine bird will bring ten cents more.” Stewed 
Quails —“In such a dish as a compote of quails, any 
flavor the bird might originally have possessed is 
utterly ruined by the bacon, the parsley, the green 
onions, the mushrooms, the sauce, and the season¬ 
ings with which the stewed caille is smothered. 
‘This dish,’ the illustrious chef Ude somewhat pa¬ 
tronizingly informed his foreign patrons, ‘would not 
do for an English dinner,’ an opinion in which we 
entirely agree. A galantine of quails is not much 
better. Cailles Bardees— “But in roasting, the 
fewer the trimmings the better the bird. A vine leaf 
tied over the breast and covered with a slice of fat 
bacon (the method known as barding) is quite allow¬ 
able, and though a garnish of water-cresses is not 
forbidden, only a barbarian would souse the plump 
mouthfuls in brown gravy. Eaten with toast which 
has absorbed the trail in the roasting-pan, the quail 
is a prime dainty, and the man who does not overdo 
it may credit the tale of Hercules having been re- 


QUA 

called to life after such a dietary, and pity the Rom¬ 
ans, who ceased only after feasting at Attic ban¬ 
quets to believe that the coturnix caused epileptic 
fits.” Cailt.es a la Duchesse —“To return to my 
list of specialties of Parisian restaurants, I would 
advise all diners who visit Eaperouse’s house on the 
Qual des Grands Augustine during the autumn 
months to order, whether it be on the daily menu or 
not, a dish of cailles an riz , sometimes called cailles 
a la Duchesse. To prepare them at home proceed as 
follows: Clean and scorch 12 fat quails, putting 
their livers back; put them into a pan with some lard 
and about lb. of salt pork {petit sale) cut into little 
dice. Brown rapidly by tossing them in the pan over 
a brisk fire; when three-quarters cooked, pour over 
2 glasses of good bouillon, add a bouquet of parsley, 
a leaf of laurel, a clove of saffron, and some cayenne- 
pepper. Let the liquor reach boiling point three or 
four times, and then pour into it ^ lb. of picked rice 
which has been previously washed with care. Three 
minutes later cover up the pan, and allow the rice to 
cook over a slow fire. When this has taken place, 
take out the bouquet of parsley, and serve the rice 
on a plate, surrounded by the birds.” Boned 
Quails a la Cendre— The chef de cuisine at the 
Cafe de Paris gives the following recipe for a spec¬ 
ialty at his excellent restaurant, namely, cailles a la 
Cendre. Bone your quails; fill them with a stuffing 
composed of poultry breast, bacon, and minced truf¬ 
fles; roll the birds, and butter them slightly. Place 
them in a row on a baking-tin, on a strip of abaisse , 
or dough rolled out thin. Arrange the abaisse so as 
to keep the birds together whilst baking, to which 
proceed after wrapping them in a sheet of butter- 
paper. Cook at moderate heat for 40 minutes. Re¬ 
move the abaisse, and serve. Cailles a la Mace¬ 
doine —Quails braised in stock and wine, with their 
livers and some chopped ham inside them, and bacon, 
ham, herbs and vegetables in the braise; served on a 
macedoine of vegetables. Cailles aux Laitues— 
Quails braised and served with stewed lettuce (like 
partridge and cabbage.) Cailles aux Petits Pois- 
Quails with green peas. Cailles a la Perigeux- 
Stuffed with the livers, bacon, and truffles; roasted; 
served with Perigeux saute. Turban de Cailles 
a la Financiere —Roast quails cut in halves, 
dished in a circle with a financibre garnish in the 
center. Compote de Cailles — Stewed in stock 
with wine, with slices of sweet-bread, ham, truffles, 
herbs, and croutons to border. Chaudfroid de 
Cailles —Roast quails, the meat cut in dice in a 
chaudfroid sauce; served cold in small rolls made 
for the purpose. Quails with Jam —An American 
paper says that blackberry jam is the newest epicu¬ 
rean wrinkle for eating with broiled quail. 

QUAHAUG—A large variety of clam; esteemed 
for its flavor although only a portion is eatable. 
The favorite way of cooking is egged, breaded and 
fried same as oysters; the clams appear to be in. 
strings in consequence of the hard portions having 
been removed as they were opened. Can be bought 







414 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


QUA 

in cans. Quahaugs are more largely used for fish 
bait than for eating. They are unknown on the 
other side of the Atlantic. 

QUASS—Quass, the fermented cabbage water of 
the Russians, is their popular tipple. Next to beer, 
it has more votaries thau any other fermented bever¬ 
age. 

QUASSIA CHIPS—To be bought at the drug¬ 
gists. An infusion in boiling water with syrup 
makes fly-poison. 

QUEEN PUDDING-A meringue pudding, made 
of a rich bread custard baked one inch in depth in a 
pan, spread over when barely set with fruit jelly or 
marmalade, covered with soft meringue, sifted sugar 
on top and baked light color. Eaten with cream. 

QUEEN FRITTERS-The popular name of beig- 
nets souffles, made of the same peculiar paste as 
petits-chaux and profiterolles , and cream puffs, which 
is i pint water, 7 oz. butter or lard, 9 oz. flour, 10 
eggs. The water and butter boiled together, flour 
dropped in and stirred and cooked to paste, eggs 
well beaten in, off the fire, one at a time. Small 
spoonfuls dropped in hot lard enough to float them, 
expand and become hollow. Eaten with sauce or 
powdered sugar. 

QUEEN’S CAKES-Small drop cakes made of 
lb. each butter and sugar, 4 or 5 eggs, % lb flour, % 
lb. currants. Dropped on paper with the bag and 
tube, sugared on top, baked. 

QUEEN’S TARTS—Grated rind and juice of 2 
oranges and 1 lemon, 4 oz. sugar, 5 yolks. Makes 
a sort of orange custard, the juice being in place of 
milk. Filled into patty-pans with puff paste bot¬ 
toms, baked. 

QUENELLES — Small balls or egg shapes of 
pounded white meat. The most elaborately made 
have the meat pounded in a morter and forced through 
a seive. They are served in consommes and soups 
and enter in several of the standard garnishes which 
give names to dishes. They are sometimes made to 
inclose a highly flavored mince, ( see Consomme 
Nationale,) and again are made in flattened shapes 
and the upper surfaces decorated with truffles made 
to adhere with white of egg. Domestic Que¬ 
nelles —“ Quenelles are another delicate and attrac¬ 
tive form in which cold veal or fowl can be served. 
Moisten one cup of finely crumbed bread with three 
tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, drain as dry as 
possible, add two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 
and as much finely chopped meat as you wish; work 
in well one beaten egg, and season all thoroughly. 
Flouring your hands, form the paste into round 
balls, rolling them in flour when shaped. Bring to 
a boiling heat in a saucepan one large cup of well 
seasoned gravy, drop in the quenelles, and boil fast 
five minutes. The gravy can be thickened and 
poured over them, or they can be rolled in flour or 
cracker crumbs, and fried in lard or butter, draining 
off all the grease before serving.” 


RAB 

QUINCE—A fruit like a pear in shape, useful for 
preserving, for making jelly and marmalade, but of 
little importance in comparison with the other large 
fruits. It is found at its best put up in cans, the 
long cooking of the canning process being an ad¬ 
vantage with so hard a fruit. Can be used in a ma 
jority of the ways given for other fruits. ( See Ap¬ 
ples, Apricots, Pears.) 

R. 

RABBIT — Rabbit meat evidently occupies an 
equivocal position in the list of delicacies. It is un¬ 
questionably good food. Young rabbit compares 
favorably with chicken and is made to do duty for 
chicken sometimes, particularly in the way of 
canned chicken, potted chicken and in puree soups 
and pies. Yet one may see that rabbit is not re¬ 
garded as a luxury in this country in the fact that it 
is never found in the bill of fare of the dearer class 
of restaurants and is never in the game course of 
any high-class dinner, although it may occasionally 
be found in some more elaborate shape amongst the 
entrees. It makes all the difference whether such 
game is scarce and has to be guarded and fostered 
by gamekeepers in private hunting preserves, or 
whether it is so plentiful naturally as to be the 
cheapest of all meat, as it now is in nearly every 
place, for the western farmers find the rabbit a pest 
that despoils them of their growing crops, and turn 
out in winter in concert and destroy them as vermin 
by the wagon loads. In Australia the plague of 
rabbits is so serious as to claim the attention of the 
government, and the canning of rabbit meatand ex¬ 
port of rabbits in a frozen state has made this meat 
as plentiful and common in London as it is in our 
western towns after a heavy fall of snow, when 
rabbits are taken by the thousands. Still it supplies 
a vast amount of good, fresh meat to tens of thou¬ 
sands of poor people who might otherwise seldom 
taste any. The foreign styles of dressing rabbits 
here mentioned are to elucidate the contents of 
French menus; the home methods of cooking rab¬ 
bits may be at once summed as being thasame well- 
known ways as for chickens. Lapereau a la Pod 
lette —“ Paul, I hear, has made a splendid thing of 
it. He made his name by means of certain special¬ 
ties of his, which no gourmet who respects himself 
can, if anywhere near Pourville, pass on without 
tasting. These specialites are Canard au sang, 
Matelotte Normande, and Lapereau a la poulette, 
in all of which Paul, who is his own chef, excels. 
Cut up your rabbit into pieces. Fry these in butter 
until firm; but not long enough to brown them. Let 
the butter run off, and let the meat get cold. Then 
lard the fleshy parts with strips of excellent bacon. 
Put the pieces back into the saucepan, with a spoon¬ 
ful of flour and a bouquet of herhs, moistening with 
a glassful of white wine and a little bouillon. When 
the cooking is half finished, add some onions, some 
mushrooms cut into pieces, and allow the stewing 
to finish over a slow fire. When well cooked, strain 











THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


415 


RAB 

the sauce, skim off fat, bind with the yolks of two 
eggs, and pour it over the meat which you have 
meanwhile arranged on a dish. Just before serving, 
squeeze the juice of one lemon all over the dish.” 
Rabbit with Spinach —Bone the thighs and legs, 
replace the bones by pieces of bacon, sew up the 
openings so as to put the limbs in proper shape 
again, and put it on the fire in a saucepan with 
slices of bacon, small onions, carrots, thyme, pars¬ 
ley, a bay leaf, and some stock. Let the whole cook 
for two hours on a slow fire; then strain off the 
stock, and serve the rabbit, cut up, on spinach. 
Fillets of Rabbits —Cut the fillets from two rab¬ 
bits, lard them with fat bacon, and shortly before 
they are wanted put them into a tin in a hot oven, 
with plenty of butter, and a little salt strewn over 
them (the tin should be covered with a sheet of but¬ 
tered paper); they will only take a few minutes to 
dress, and should be served with the dish garnished 
with small mushrooms, slices of lemon and parsley. 
Li ver sauce is generally sent to table with them. 
Rabbit a la Kirkham —Boned rabbit. Pieces with 
the bones taken out. Some rabbit meat run through 
the sausage machine and made into forcemeat with 
bread-crumbs and seasonings, part of it stuffed in 
place of the bones, some spread on the outside of 
the pieces, egged, breaded, fried; fumet sauce made 
of the bones, with wine. Jugged Rabbit —Potted 
rabbit. Wash a large rabbit, and cut into joints; 
dredge with flour, and fry lightly in butter or drip¬ 
ping, with a few pieces of lean ham. The meat 
should only be half cooked. Place immediately in 
a stew jar with pepper, salt, and the chopped rind 
of half a small lemon. Cover the meat with gravy 
or stock, and stew gently for two hours. About 
twenty minutes before serving thicken the gravy 
with a little cornflour, and simmer in it a few force¬ 
meat balls. Lapereaux a l’Anglaise —Stewed 
rabbit with Soubise sauce. Pate Chaub de Lape¬ 
reaux —Rabbit pie, hot. Lapereaux a la Jardi¬ 
niere —Rabbits in a white stew with vari-colored 
vegetables cut in balls with the potato spoon. La¬ 
pereaux a la Tavernier —White stew with but¬ 
ton onions and mushrooms. Lapereaux Grilles 
—Young rabbits flattened, cooked on the broiler, 
spread with maitre d’hotel butter, served with bor¬ 
der of buttered toast in triangular shapes. Lape¬ 
reaux a la Villageoise— Stuffed and roasted, 
brown onion sauce. Civet of Rabbit —See Civet. 
Galantine de Lapins— Boned, stuffed, rolled up 
in a cloth, boiled, pressed into some shape while 
cooling, decorated with aspic jelly. {See Galan¬ 
tines.') 

RACINES (Fr.)—Certain vegetables; turnips^ 
carrots and potatoes served as a garnish. 

RADISHES — In an emergency white turnip 
radishes may be cooked and served in the place of 
young turnips, and many prefer them to turnips 
when nicely cooked. To Prepare for Table— 
Radishes should be kept in ice water; the long reds 
should be scraped or thinly pared in stripes, a stripe 


RAR 

of white showing with a stripe of red. Round 
radishes may be cut with the point of a penknife so 
that the outside will curl backwards from the white 
core like a flower in shape. Radishes are eaten with 
the fingers like olives and asparagus. Golden 
Radishes —In the oblations of garden fruits which 
the Greeks offered to Apollo in his temple of Delpos, 
they dedicated turnips in lead and beets in silver, 
whereas radishes were presented in beaten gold. 
Radish Tops— Make excellent greens cooked as 
spinach. Radishes in Salad —Much good use of 
radishes can be made in the decoration of salad 
dishes, and they are good cut up in various green 
salads. 

RAGOUT—The old term for Garnish. ( See Gar¬ 
nishes.) A ragout is a rich compound stew, the 
components being all in small morsels. 

RAIE (Fr.)—Ray or skate, sea fish, Raie a la 
Noisette — Cut in pieces without bone, boiled, 
served in butter sauce with the pounded liver of tfie 
fish and tarragon vinegar. 

RAIFORT (Fr.)—Horseradish. 

RAISED PIES—See Pates , Pies. 

RAISINS (Fr.) — Grapes. Glace Eau de Rai¬ 
sins —Grape water ice. Tarte de Raisins Verts 
—Green grape pie. 

RAISINS DE CORINTHE (Fr.) — Zante cur¬ 
rants. 

RAISINE DE BOURGOGNE — Ripe pears 
boiled in grape juice, the juice previously boiled 
doAvn to double strength like a natural syrup, the 
pears, when done stewing, further reduced by bak¬ 
ing in jars. 

RAMAKINS or RAMEQUINS — The latter is 
the French spelling, but is oftenest used. They are 
cheese puffs or little puddings of cheese baked in 
paper cases. Made of y 2 pint milk, 2 oz. butter, i 
large tablespoon flour, 2 oz. grated cheese, 4 eggs, 
pepper, milk and butter boiled together, thickened 
with the flour; cheese added and eggs well beaten 
at last; baked in little cases or cups. For lunches 
or club suppers. Ramequins a la Raymond— 
The same mixture as queen fritters with enough 
grated cheese mixed in to flavor it well, baked like 
puffs on pans, dusted with grated cheese before 
taken from the oven. Ramequins a la Sefton — 
Or Sefton’s fancy, invented by an epicure of that 
name. They are puff paste with grated cheese rolled 
in the layers cut in small shapes and baked. Ra¬ 
mequins Souffles— Cheese puffs in paste cups. 
The mixture made same as frangipane with cheese 
and salt instead of sugar. When cold whipped 
whites mixed in, baked in cups or cases. They rise 
high and are to be served immediately. Rame¬ 
quins a la Genevoise —Pounded butter and hard 
boiled yolks with grated cheese spread on small 
shapes of bread and baked. 

RARE—An English Americanism. At a din¬ 
ner in Philadelphia a few years ago some one asked 




416 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


RAS 

an English lord, who was one of the guests, if he 
would take his duck rare. “Rare, rare?” queried 
the noble lord; “now there is another of your Amer¬ 
icanisms, which makes it so difficuit to understand 
you; and pray, what do you mean by rare?” There 
was a good American present who promptly piped 
out from the other end of the table: “ We mean by 
rare, my Lord, what Dryden meant when he wrote: 
‘Roast me quickty an egg, and see that it be rare.” 

RASPBERRY—One of the choicest fruits, most 
perishable, and of a very transient season. Most 
valued as raw fruit for breakfast. Raspberries 
and Cream — Berries served in glass dishes or 
saucers, cream aside in small pitcher. Raspber¬ 
ries with Ice Cream— A spoonful on top of the 
cream in the plate. Raspberry Ice Cream — 
Raspberries mixed in ice cream at the finish of 
freezing, that they may not entirely lose their shape. 
Raspberry Sherbet— Berries rubbed through a 
strainer mixed with syrup and frozen white of eggs 
added at last. Raspberry Shortcake —Cakes of 
short-paste or puff-paste about ^ inch thick, baked 
on plates split open, spread with ripe berries and 
sugar between and on top. Served with cream. 
Raspberry Meringue —Sheet of cake in a pan, 
berries an inch deep spread over it, sugar, soft me¬ 
ringue an inch deep on top, lightly baked, cut in 
squares. Raspberry Charlotte— Bread crumbs 
and berries with sugar in alternate layers in a but¬ 
tered pan, butter on top, baked. Eaten with cream. 
Raspberry Puddings and Pies — See Apples , 
Blackberries, Cherries. Raspberry TRiFLE-Sponge 
cake in a shallow glass bowl, saturated with sweet¬ 
ened raspberry juice, then covered with whipped 
cream and bordered all around with bunches of rasp¬ 
berries. Raspberry Syrup — Strained raspberry 
juice boiled with an equal measure of sugar, kept 
in bottles, used for all sorts of raspberry prepara¬ 
tions; in drinks, in ice cream, sherbet, sauces, etc. 
Raspberry Vinegar —Is a good sauce for all sorts 
of flour and egg-puddings, and pancakes. Made by 
putting a quart of raspberries and a quart of vine¬ 
gar together in a jar to remain 8 days, the liquor 
then strained off and i lb. of sugar to each pint al¬ 
lowed, boiled up, bottled. Tartede Framboises 
—Raspberry open pie. Pain de Framboises —A 
mould of raspberry jam mixed with gelatine, with 
cream in the center. Creme de Framboises— 
Raspberry cream. ( See Bavarois.) Gelee. de 
Framboises —Raspberry jelly. Glace Creme de 
Framboises— Raspberry ice cream. Raspberry 
Omelet —A sweet omelet having thick stewed rasp¬ 
berries in the center rolled up in it. Sugar on top. 

RASPINGS—The bakers rasp off the brown crust 
of loaves which may be too dark and the raspings 
are used to give a browned appearance to some 
baked dishes and to roasted hams. 

RATAFIA—A cordial strongly flavored with the 
kernels of stone fruits; made by steeping some 
hundreds of kernels of peaches, apricots, necta- 


RED 

rines and cherries in a gallon of brandy with a pound 
of loaf sugar, for several months. Used for flavor¬ 
ing liquors, drinks, ice cream, etc. 

RATAFIAS—Small macaroons often named in 
cookery directions, made of 3 oz. sweet almonds, 2 
oz. bitter almonds, 2 whites, 1 dessert spoonful 
brandy in the almonds while pounding, 8 oz. sugar. 
Drops size of 5 cent piece dropped on paper and 
baked; see Macaroons — tnese are the same more 
highly flavored. Used as cakes, but also as flavor¬ 
ings in puddings and creams. 

RAVIGOTE SAUCE —Ravigote Verte / Mayon¬ 
naise sauce made green with a mixture of chopped 
parsley, chives, chervil, tarragon and shallot and 
spinach green or parsley juice. 

RAVIGOTE SAUCE HOT—White butter sauce 
containing vinegar and finely chopped parsley, tar¬ 
ragon and chervil. 

RAVIOLIS—See Italian Cookery. 

RAW STEAK—Sometimes ordered by invalids. 
“In certain parts of Germany and France, a ‘deli¬ 
cacy’ is much patronized by a great many people 
which is eaten absolutely raw. A raw steak ( as 
fresh as it can be got) is minced, mixed with finely 
chopped shallots and parsley, and seasoned to taste 
with salt and pepper. A raw egg is broken over 
this mess, and the dainty dish is placed before one, 
with oil and vinegar to add as fancy may dictate.” 
Scraped Raw Steak —As called for in American 
hotels the steak is generally required to be scraped 
with a sharp knife from a broad round steak, it 
being a pulp of raw meat, the seasoning depends 
upon the order. 

RAY—A specie of flat fish of which there are 
several varieties. {See Skate.) 

RICHAUFFE (Fr.)—A re-cooked dish; cooked 
meat served up in some fresh form. Equivalent to 
kedgeree. 

RED ANTS—Sprigs of winter-green or ground 
ivy will drive away red ants; branches of worm¬ 
wood will do the same for black ants. The insects 
may be kept out of sugar barrels by drawing a wide 
chalk mark round the top near the edge. Spirits of 
turpentine will keep all insects from storerooms by 
putting a few drops in the corners and upon the 
shelves. Cocoa sprinkled about the places infested 
by red ants will very soon drive them away. 

REDFISH — Local Louisiana name of the sea 
bass or channel bass. It is pale red when freshly 
caught, but not red like the snapper. 

REDHEAD DUCK—Ranks next to canvas-back 
in quality; is often substituted for it; cooked in the 
same ways. 

RED SN APPER-One of the very finest American 
fishes. Its flesh is the whitest and very firm, if there 
be a defect at all it may be that the flesh is too firm. 
Its flavor is delicate without being so decided as to 
repel the people who do not like fish in general. It 
is the most satisfactory fish to fry for breakfast, the 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


417 


RED 

whiteness of the meats howing through the breading 
and affording a fine color which some other fish 
never acquire in the pan. The snapper is abundant 
also, being found in the markets of every consider¬ 
able town of the middle and southern states and 
beyond. In color is like the gold fish in the globes, 
but attains a noble size. How and Where it is 
Caught —This magnificent fish is one of the most 
common in the Gulf of Mexico. It is gorgeously 
colored, very graceful in all its movements, and 
unusually wary and capricious. In weight it ranges 
from 2 to 35 lbs., averaging 7 lbs. Its home is in 
the strictly salt waters of the Gulf a short distance 
from the coast. There it lives on the bottom at a 
depth of 60 to 240 feet. The ocean floor of Florida 
declines gently at first, for a distance of from 30 to 
50 miles from the shore, to a depth of 300 feet, then 
very abruptly decends to a depth of 600 feet, beyond 
which the slope is more gradual to a depth of about 
12,000 feet. The first slope is a sandy one; the 
second is sandy, rocky and muddy, while the third 
is wholly muddy. The surface of the second with 
its uneven rocks afford homes and comparative se¬ 
curity for all kinds of small marine animals, such as 
ci'abs, barnacles, corals, etc., etc. The red snapper is 
most prominent in these communities. It is one of the 
largest, most active and handsomest species. Its 
life is spent about the patches of rocks, swimming 
about 6 feet from the bottom among tall branching 
oscols and waving grasses in a lazy graceful man¬ 
ner, forever on the alert to dash upon some reckless 
smaller fish. Ordinarily it has about fifty species of 
beautifully delicate fishes to select its food from. 
Among these are rare fishes that live only about the 
coral reefs of warm seas. Even the most celebrated 
little fish of the Romans—the red mullet, that was so 
highly esteemed by the epicure emperors, furnishes 
an occasional meal for the red snapper. In conse¬ 
quence of living upon food of this character, the 
flesh of the red snapper is peculiarly firm and sweet, 
being disposed in regular layers that make it espe¬ 
cially desirable for serving at the table. The red 
snapper is caught altogether with hook and line. 
Vessels carrying 6 to 8 men go from home as far as 
250 miles, being then about 50 miles from land. The 
places where the fish live is found by sounding¬ 
lines that indicate the depth known to the fisher¬ 
man, and that have baited hooks attached which are 
quite sure to get a victim if there are fish near by 
and they are disposed to bite. The vessels are 
anchored over the spot or allowed to drift across it, 
while the fishermen ply their lines as rapidly as 
possible. Each man handles a single line, which 
has two large hooks and several pounds of lead at¬ 
tached. When the fish are hungry they bite as fast 
as the lines are lowered to them, and even rise near 
to the surface of the sea in their eargerness, biting 
at the bare hooks or anything that is offered. From 
this habit they have gained the name of snappers. 
Very often two large fish are hooked at once, and 
then the fisherman has a hard pull, for the snapper 


REE 

is gamey. While it is so easily captured at times, 
there are spells w r hen it cannot be lured by any kind 
of bait or snare. Boiled Red Snapper —Put in 
enough hot water to cover well, resting on the 
drainer bottom, with salt and little vinegar; sim¬ 
mered about Y hour, lifted out by means of the false 
bottom, and onto a dish, served with any of the 
usual fish sauces; caper sauce is especially suitable, 
and Hollandaise potatoes. Red Snapper Stuffed 
and Baked —Cooked with the head on, the fish 
having the back bone removed, without quite sever¬ 
ing the skin, from the back, and the bone separated 
from the head at the shoulders; stuffed and restored 
to original form, fastened with twine. Baked with 
slices of salt pork in the pan; served with tomato 
sauce made in the same pan. Red Snapper, Flor¬ 
ida Style —Split down the back and laid open in a 
pan, the skin side down, the upper surface dusted 
over with salt, white pepper, coloring pepper; set 
in the oven to get hot; taken out in a few minutes, 
and warm butter poured over; then baked brown 
with frequent bastings; served with lemons and to¬ 
mato catsup. Red Snapper au Courtbouillon— 
For a fish of 5 to S lbs. is required 2 teaspoons col¬ 
oring pepper, teaspoon black pepper, % teaspoon 
cayenne, 2 cloves of garlic sliced thin—all these to 
be placed in water ready in a cup. Next, 1 onion 
lightly fried in lard, can tomatoes added, fish in 
pieces put in, pepper mixture added; cooked 10min¬ 
utes, Yz cup flour to thicken; served with fried bread. 
Red Snapper a la Beaufort —Fish boiled whole 
in kettle with stock, white wine, water, aromatics; 
when done, upper-side skin removed, fish glazed, 
decorated with lobster coral; served with matelote 
sauce of oysters, shrimps, etc. 

REED BIRDS—The reed birds of the North are 
the rice birds of the South. They swarm on the rice 
plantations to an extent that becomes serious through 
their depredations upon the grain, and at times all 
available hands have to be kept on the watch with 
guns and scare crows on that account. In this way 
the birds acquire the fatness which makes them 
equal to the ortolans and fig-peckers of Italy. Reed 
Birds a la Beecher —The following, except per¬ 
haps the oyster, was Henry Ward Beecher’s favorite 
way: “One of the dishes was * reed bird,’ and the 
novel way in which these were served will interest 
some readers. They were prepared by the cook tak¬ 
ing a raw potato, cutting it in two and scooping out 
enough of the inside to make a hole big enough to 
hold a reed bird, an oyster and a little butter. These 
were boxed inside the potato, the whole tied up and 
baked.” Reed Birds with Mushrooms —Among 
the most acceptable of entrees is a dish of birds with 
mushrooms. Truss 2 doz. reed birds, or other small 
birds, as for roasting; put into each a button mush¬ 
room, of which have a heaping pint after all the 
stalks are removed; put the birds and the remaining 
mushrooms into a stewpan, season them with a very 
little salt and pepper, and add either % lb. of fresh 
butter (divided into four and slightly rolled in flour) 







418 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


REF 

or i pt. of rich cream. Cover the stewpan closely, 
set it over a moderate fire to stew gently till the birds 
and mushrooms are thoroughly dry and tender. Do 
not open the lid to stir the stew, but occasionally 
give the pan a vigorous shake. When the birds are 
ready to serve, lay them on toast with the mush¬ 
rooms placed around. Broiled Reed Birds— 
Trussed with the head left on and tucked under the 
wing, their own liver and bit of butter put inside, 
run side by side on a skewer with a very thin slice 
of parboiled bacon between each, and broiled on the 
skewers over clear coals. Served on toast-garnish 
with lemon and parsley. Philadelphia Specialty 
-“The reed bird, like terrapin and canvas-back duck, 
is an exclusively American luxury. Our Philadel¬ 
phia contemporary, Progress , avers that the cook 
who cuts off the head of this feathered dainty 
‘throws away the most delicious bit of a delicious 
morsel.’ ” Reed Birds in Entrees —In France 
the small bird is esteemed an epicure’s morsel, and 
is dressed in a variety of fashions, e.g., wrapped in 
calf’s udder and roasted, broiled in cases lined with 
quenelle forcemeat, or cooked in beef marrow sprin¬ 
kled with chopped mixed herbs, lemon juice, and 
grated crusts of bread. For salmis they are cooked 
in precisely the same way as any ordinary game 
would be. For a vol-au-vent the reed bird would 
be boned, stuffed with a rich forcemeat, and served 
in vol-au-vent cases, with mushrooms and a well- 
made white sauce. A la Parisienne they would be 
boned, stuffed with a game forcemeat and small 
truffles, then braised, and sent to table arranged on a 
dish in a crown shape, with veal quenelles in the 
center, and a game sauce. These fanciful ways of 
dressing are generally employed for entrees. Reed 
Birds Cold —In some towns and villages of North¬ 
ern Italy small birds are treated with the same ap¬ 
preciative kindness. They are roasted on a spit be¬ 
fore a sharp fire, and then laid in pickle for a day or 
two, and then served cold. ( See Alouettes, Mauvi- 
ettes, Ortolans.) 

REFORM, SAUCE—Named for the formerly 
famous Reform Club of London where Soyer of¬ 
ficiated and Ude before him. It is poivrade sauce 
combined with port wine and currant jelly. 

REINE (Fr.)—Queen. Patties a la Reine— 
Queen patties. Potage a la Reine —Queen’s soup, 
or to the queen’s taste. 

REINE-CLAUDE (Fr.) — Green-gage plum. 
Reine Claude Ice —See Ices and Gateaux. 

RELISHES—See Appetizers. 

REMOULADE, SAUCE — Same as ravigote 
in appearance, made of hard-boiled yolks pounded 
with mustard, oil and vinegar, and minced garlic 
and parsley. 

RENAISSANCE (a la) — Newly-made, re¬ 
formed, made over again. Applied only to whole 
fishes or birds, or complete pieces, like a boar’s 
head, which are formed in natural shape again by 
fhe cook. 


RHU 

RENNET—Liquid used to mix with fresh milk 
to change it to sweet curd, wheYeof cheese is made. 
This sweet curd is useful also in some kinds of des¬ 
sert, as curds with clotted cream, and, drained as if 
for cheese, it is mixed with eggs, etc., in various 
sorts of cheese cakes. Rennet is obtained by soak¬ 
ing the inside lining of a calf’s stomach (cleansed 
and prepared) in water. “ Get a calf’s bag from the 
butcher’s—in some places they keep them already 
pickled for the purpose. If you can get one pickled, 
cut it in halves, and put half in about a pint and a 
half of strong salt and water; let it stand a day or 
two, then use the rennet as required, taking care to 
add fresh salt and water in proportion as it is taken 
out, to keep up the supply. The other half of the 
calf’s bag keep in reserve in the pickle as it comes 
from the butcher, and as the rennet from the first 
half becomes too weak, add a portion of the second 
half to keep up the strength. About a tablespoon¬ 
ful to two quarts of milk is the amount required; let 
stand in a warm corner for 2 or 3 hours. 

REVENIR or FAIRE REVENIR — Short ex¬ 
pression used in French recipes to indicate the pre¬ 
liminary half-frying of the ingredients, which is 
practiced in three-fourths of the dishes prepared by 
French methods. The outside of the meat and 
vegetables are quickly fried and after that the stew¬ 
ing begins, stock and wine being added to the for¬ 
mer contents of the saucepan. 

RHUBARB—When preparing rhubarb, particu¬ 
larly for pies, see what a metamorphosis takes place 
by the judicious addition of a little candied lemon- 
peel, a little fresh lemon-peel, a squeeze of lemon- 
juice, and a few sultanas. You will be surprised. 
Rhubarb Pies —Rhubarb will take the flavor of 
other fruits very readily, thereby enabling the cook 
to vary the tarts, etc., sent to the table; for instance, 
a little lemon-peel for addition one day, a few 
blanched and chopped almonds another, a spoonful 
of strawberry jam for a third day, plain rhubarb the 
next, and so on. Rhubarb Meringue —Fill a deep 
pie-dish with alternate layers of rhubarb, sweet¬ 
ened and seasoned with nutmeg, and slices of stale 
sponge cake. Bake twenty minutes. Whisk the 
whites of three eggs thoroughly, add three table¬ 
spoonfuls of sifted white sugar; spread this evenly 
over the top. Return to the oven for fifteen minutes 
to brown. Rhubarb Fritters —Peel young rhu¬ 
barb and cut the stalks into lengths of about two 
inches, dip each piece into batter and fry in boiling 
lard until a nice golden brown. Serve fritter very 
hot, well powdered over with sugar. Rhubarb 
and Batter Puddings— Fill a buttered pie dish 
with rhubarb cut as for a tart. Make a rich batter 
with two or three eggs, allowing a tablespoonful of 
flour to each egg, and sufficient milk to form the 
mixture into a thick cream. Pour it over the rhu¬ 
barb, bake and serve with fine white sugar and 
melted butter. Rhubarb Charlotte —Dish lined 
with slices of bread dipped in butter and sugar, 
filled with cut rhubarb well sugared, covered with 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


419 


RIC 

tread, baked. Rhubarb Compote— Red rhubarb 
cut 3 inches long, set on side of range in cold water; 
when scalded, but not boiled, taken up; the water 
boiled down to a pint, i pound sugar added, boiled 
to make syrup, poured over the rhubarb. To be 
served as other compotes. Rhubarb Jam —Rhu¬ 
barb is very wholesome, and also one of the most 
useful articles of food, coming in, as it does, when 
apples go out of season. Made into jam with the 
aid of a few oranges, it makes a tasty, useful, and 
very cheap dish. Rhubarb Champagne— “ When 
making punch for a party, instead of champagne , 
use a quart bottle of rhubarb 'wine. According to 
the legend of a friend of mine, himself a writer and 
expert on wine subjects, ‘Lord Haddington, who 
was the greatest wine coamoasseur of his day, could 
not tell champagne from rhubarb wine;’ and the 
fact of its being ‘rhubarb’ would ensure its not 
playing ‘old gooseberry’ with your guests.” Rhu¬ 
barb Wine —To begin with, choose a good juicy 
kind of rhubarb, the more delicate and rose-tinted 
the growth the finer will be the color of the wine. 
A sherry or brandy cask is the best, but a lager beer 
•cask sweetened is not to be despised. Bruise the 
rstocks with a wooden mallet on a wooden board, or 
with a fruit crusher. One old dame at a village 
near Chesterfield who is celebrated for her rhubarb 
wine, and “makes for the quality,” runs the rhu¬ 
barb through a wringing machine at tight tension, 
and her wine soon makes you “tight,” by the way, 
Let it stand a day or so, then strain off the juice. 
The next operation is to sulphur the cask. Take y 2 
oz. of rock sulphur, put it into a small iron tube or 
vessel, and lower it by a wire into tne barrel; ignite 
it, and bung up the cask for 12 hours, but leave the 
spile peg out, so that a little air may get in to assist 
the process of combustion. Next fill the barrel with 
the juice, reserving a gallon or so to fill up the bar¬ 
rel and replace what is lost in the overworkings of 
the fermentation. When the fermentation has sub¬ 
sided, add two pounds of refined lump sugar to each 
gallon of juice, leave the bung out for two or three 
days, and if no further fermentation appears, bung 
it up. The wine should be kept in a cool cellar, and 
in three months it will be ready for use or bottling. 
A man in New Jersey has for years made a specialty 
of rhubarb wine and makes a delightful and whole¬ 
some beverage, for which he gets on an average a 
dollar a gallon by the barrel, allowing the city pur¬ 
chasers to do the bottling and fancy labeling. Glace 
Eau he Riiubarbe —Rhubarb water ice. Tarte 
de Rhubarbe— Rhubarb open pie. 

RICE—A southern luxury, almost a necessity, 
and the cooking of it is carried to perfection. How 
TO Boil Rice —The object is to have all the grains 
separate when done. Drop the rice into plenty of 
boiling water; as the water is going to be drained off, 
it makes no difference if there is a large quantity. 
After the rice has boiled up once, move the vessel to 
the side and let it simmer until the grains are tender 
when pinched between the fingers. Then pour into 


RIC 

a seive and let the water run away, put back the rice 
with some cold water, wash it around, drain that off, 
then set the drained rice back in the saucepan at the 
side of the fire for the remaining moisture to steam 
through it and make it hot again. Toss it up with a 
fork. Rice with Curry —The right way in which 
to serve rice and curry, as a second or final entree at 
the table is as follows: From the dish of rice passed 
round by the waiter a helping of about 5 or 6 table¬ 
spoonfuls should be taken; the curry, chosen from a 
selection of at least three varieties, should then be 
handed round, and about 1 tablespoonful ought to 
amply suffice for the above mentioned quantity of 
rice; chutney may then be optionally added on one 
side of the plate from a cruet-stand conveniently 
placed on the table, and one teaspoonful ought to be 
enough. Rice Cake— Baked rice may be used as a 
vegetable or as a dessert. In the latter case it may 
be varied by the addition of sweet and bitter almonds 
pounded, candied cherries, ginger or citron, pre¬ 
served cherries and raisins. Risotto a l’Itali- 
enne —Plainly boiled rice in a saucepan with a lump 
of butter, as much tomato sauce as the rice will take 
up, and plenty of grated cheese; stirred over fire or 
baked. (See Italian Cookery.) Rice Pudding— 
One small cup raw rice, same of sugar, 1 qt. milk; 
bake in a dish 2 or 3 hours without stirring it. 
Southern Rice-Pudding —One cup raw rice, 1 qt. 
milk, 1 cup sugar, 2 tablespoons butter, 5 eggs, fla¬ 
voring; rice, milk and sugar boiled together, other 
ingredients mixed in; baked. Imperial Rice Pud¬ 
ding —Cold; ornamental; a mould coated with jelly 
and lined ornamentally with candied fruits, sliced, 
by sticking them on the jelly; boiled rice, whipped 
cream, sugar, varilla, and gelatine made up like 
Bavarian cream and filled into the mould; filling is 
pure white. Riz aux Fraises —Paris specialty. 
Boiled rice in whole grains covered with sugar- 
syrup flavored with orange peel. When completely 
cold, serve it on a dish in alternate layers of rice and 
fresh strawberries (uncooked). Garnish the dish by 
surrounding the base of the pudding with some of 
the finest strawberries. Rice Croquettes —Boiled 
rice with butter, sugar and yolks made into pear- 
shapes or rolls, breaded, fried; served with sauce or 
jelly. Rice with Fruits —See Apples , Apricots, 
Peaches. Rice Cassolettes- See Cassolettes. Rice 
Apple-Dumplings —See Apples. Rice Waffles- 
One cup cold boiled rice, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoons melted 
lard, 1 pt. milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon baking- 
powder, flour to make a thin batter. Rice-Batter 
Cakes —Same as above. Rice Muffins, or Gems- 
Cold cooked rice mixed with flour and milk, etc.; 
baked in gem pans. Rice in Bread —Rice is used 
as an adulterant to make bread carry much water. 
It is said that the addition of 4 lbs. rice, boiled with 
all the water it will take up, mixed in the dough will 
make 25 lbs. more bread out of a barrel of flour. 

RICE FLOUR—Ground rice makes white and 
delicate pastries. Rice-Flour Cheesecakes- One- 
half pound ground rice, pt. milk; boiled together 






420 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


RIC 

like paste; % lb. each sugar and butter, 5 eggs, fla¬ 
vor, mixed with the rice-paste; baked in patty-pans 
lined with paste. Ground Rice Buns —One-half 
pound each butter, sugar and rice-flour, 2 eggs, 1% 
lbs. flour, 1 oz. carb. ammonia, y pt. milk; made up 
like pound-cake, cut off in rounds, dipped in sugar, 
baked. Ground Rice Cake — Four eggs, % lb. 
flour, y lb. pounded loaf-sugar, y lb. butter, teacup 
of ground rice, teaspoonful baking-powder. Beat 
the eggs, flour and sugar well for a quarter of an 
hour, adding the rice-powder and butter last of all. 
Bake three quarters of an hour in a hot oven. 

RICHELIEU GARNISH-Quenelles of chicken, 
cockscombs and slices of fat livers in brown onion 
sauce. Dishes finished with this are a la Richelieu. 

RILLETTES DE TOURS—Cold cakes of meat 
of the head-cheese order. At the Paris ham fairs 
the rillette makers build up fancy pyramids of small 
rillettes and decorate them. The cakes are made as 
follows: 4 lbs. of lean meat is added to 6 lbs. of ba¬ 
con or caul, the whole being chopped fine and sea¬ 
soned with salt, spices, and bay-leaves. The mix¬ 
ture is then cooked in a vessel, care being taken to 
stir it until it is finished, to prevent pieces attaching 
to the bottom of the saucepan. The fat is skimmed 
off, the meat chopped, put into earthenware dishes, 
the liquor poured over. Eaten cold. 

RISSOLES—Rissole and croquette both signify 
about the same thing, something crisp. The dif¬ 
ference usually observed is to make the rissole with 
a coat of flour paste, the croquette with a coat of 
egg and bread-crumbs or cracker meal. The dis¬ 
tinctions are not always observed, however. A ris¬ 
sole is a portion of minced meat combination rolled 
up in a thin coat of pie-paste and fried in a kettle 
of hot lard. Rissoles a la Roi —Minced olives and 
truffles and hard-boiled yolks and whites; spoonfuls 
inclosed in turnovers of pie-paste; egged, breaded, 
fried. Garnished with lemons and cress. 

RISSOLETTES—Small or fancy-shaped rissoles. 

RIS (Fr.) — Sweetbread. Ris de Veau —Calf s’ 
sweetbread. Ris d’Agneau —Lambs’ sweetbread. 

RIZ (Fr.)—Rice. 

RIZZERED HADDIE—See Scottish Cookery. 

ROACHES—The most successful means of des¬ 
troying or banishing roaches from a building seem 
to be: (/)-Borax thrown around plentifully where 
they run, which is near where water is to be found, 
for roaches drink greedily. ( See Borax). But it is 
an indispensable condition that borax be freshly 
powdered and very fine. The roaches do not eat it 
but it kills them by adhering to their feet and they 
die in the efforts to get rid of it. (2)-Phosphorus 
paste {which see) is the only effectual means which 
others have found. (j-)-Red lead and flour in equal 
quantities mixed together. The paste to be spread 
on pieces of paper and distributed about the places 
infested. (4)-Cucumber peel thrown around their 
haunts. They eat it for the sake of the water it 


ROL 

contains and it kills. (j)-Boiling water thrown per- 
severingly into the cracks and crevices where they 
harbor. Insect powder does not kill, only stupefies 
the insects for a few hours and they survive and 
continue business. The borax and phosphorus paste 
and the hot water seem to have the highest testi¬ 
mony as to their success in exterminating. 

ROBINS—Cooked with a slice of bacon over the 
breast, served on toast in the usual way of all small 
birds. 

ROCKY MOUNTAIN OYSTERS — Lambs' 
fries. 

ROCK BUNS—Rough rocky looking cakes made 
of y lb. each butter, sugar and currants, 3 eggs, 3 
lbs. flour, y 2 pt. milk, y 2 oz. carb. ammonia dissolved 
in milk. Makes stiff dough, pieces pulled off rough 
with a fork baked on greased pans. Rock Cake— 
y lb. each butter, sugar and currants, 3 eggs,. % lb. 
flour, baked in a mould. 

ROCK SUGAR—This is the candy rock work 
used to build up ornamental pieces of confectionery 
and to sell as sponge candy; it can be made of all 
colors and flavors: Boil a pint of clarified: sugar in 
a copper earthenware pan to the degree of crackled, 
(See Sugar Boiling) 1 use no acid in the boiling of 
this; remove it from the fire, and well mix into it a 
tablespoonful of icing, by stirring it in briskly with 
your skimmer. As soon as the sugar and rcing is well 
mixed, and rises up like froth, put it into a papered 
sieve, or into an oiled tin or mould, and when quite 
cold, break it in pieces. If you have not any icing 
ready made, mix some sifted loaf sugar with the 
white of an egg, until it is quite thick, put in a table¬ 
spoonful, and it will answer the purpose of icing. 
If you want it colored, mix the coloring in with the 
icing. “ And now we come to the finest piece in the 
group, described in the catalogue as ‘Stronghold 
Caske, in piped sugar ornamental work, on a rock 
made of (souffle) sugar.’ Souffle sugar—or as it was 
called in our young days, ‘ Queen’s bread,’—always 
makes a good bed for an ornamental piece of this 
kind, and in this case greatly enhanced the beauty 
of the castle above.” (See Hints on Sugar.) 

ROES OF FISH—Shad roes bring the highest 
prices, mullet and carp roes are as good except in 
the one particular of color, they are not so white 
when cooked. Shad Roes Fried— Seasoned with 
salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then egged and 
breaded, fried in little fat in frying pan to prevent 
curling; tomato sauce. Shad Roes a la Maitre 
d’Hotel —Steeped in oil with onion, seasoned, 
broiled, served with maitre d'hotel butter. Roes 
aux Fines Herbes —Shad or other roes in a bak- 
ing pan with chopped mushrooms, onion and parsley, 
and salt and pepper strewed under and over, broth 
and wine, simmered together in slow oven, sauce 
made in the pan. (See Laitances.) 

ROGNONS (Fr.)—Kidneys. 

ROLY-POLY PUDDINGS - Favorite kind, 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


421 


ROM 

boiled or steamed; made by rolling’ out a sheet of 
paste (either short paste, biscuit dough, or a special 
flaky sort made by the puff-paste method, but less 
rich), covering with a layer of chopped apples or 
any fruit or mixture, rolling up in a cloth and steam¬ 
ing an hour or two. Every sort of fruit can be used, 
and mixtures of many kinds, from molasses thick¬ 
ened with flour to fine lemon mince meat. 

ROMAN PIE—Italian lunch dish. Boil a good- 
sized rabbit; cut all the meat off as thin as possible 
and pound it. Add 2 oz. of grated cheese, 2 oz. of 
macaroni stewed till quite tender, and a little onion 
chopped fine; pepper, salt and allspice; line a mould 
with good paste and put in above well mixed; bake 
for an hour, turn out, and serve cold. Truffles and 
grated ham or tongue improve the pie. 

ROMAN PUNCH—Punch of rum and lemons 
with additions; soft-frozen like granito. Superior 
Roman Punch —Mix and freeze 2 qts. of lemon wa¬ 
ter ice; a few minutes before serving, work in with 
the spatula 2 glasses of rum, 2 of brandy, 2 of 
sherry, bottle of champagne, and 5 whites of me¬ 
ringue; serve in glasses. 

ROOK—A species of crow; the young are eaten, 
generally in the form of rook pie. 

ROQUEFORT CHEESE — Wen-known im¬ 
ported cheese of a dry and solid soi't and high flavor. 
It is ranked among the choice comestibles for high- 
priced tables. Can be bought at the fancy grocery 
stores at about double the price of American cheese; 
size about 6 or S lbs. This cheese is made of sheeps’ 
milk. “Roquefort, in Aveyron, France, has been 
celebrated for generations on account of its caves 
and cheeses; these two items are inseparable, for 
without the caves the cheeses would be nowhere, 
and vice versa. All round the country is rich in de¬ 
lightful pasture lands and hilly grounds, affording 
splendid fodder for the sheep, which, reared in hun¬ 
dreds of thousands, develop udders of exceptional 
size, and yield an appreciable quantity of milk. The 
ewes’ milk is converted into fine cream cheeses, and 
these are disposed in alternate layers with a sprink¬ 
ling of powder, made from a special kind of brown 
bread, which has been subjected to the attacks of a 
particular kind of mould, peculiar to Roquefort. 
The farmers who make these ‘loaves,’ as they are 
now called, dispose of them‘to the celebrated nia- 
hirers in the town, the Societe des Caves Reumes. 
The cheeses on reaching the caves are brushed, and 
then pierced through their substance with numerous 
minute holes, by means of elaborate machinery. 
They are then set aside in the caves to ripen, and it. 
is an undeniable fact that nowhere else in the world 
will the peculiar fungus grow and impart such a 
toothsome flavor to the cheese as in these caves.” 

ROSSINI (a la )—The composer Rossini was a 
noted gourmet and particularly fond of truffles; the 
few dishes occasionally met with a la Rossini , are 
distinguished by having a plentiful truffle garnish. 
His favorite dish of macaroni with truffles it was said 


RUF 

ought to have been called truffles with a little maca¬ 
roni; his favorite salad was sliced truffles with 
dressing. 

ROUGET (Fr.)—Red mullet. (See Mullet.) 

ROUELEE DE BCEUF (Fr.)—Round of beef. 

4 

ROULADES—Steaks rolled up with seasonings 
and strips of fat bacon inside, tied, fried outside, 
broth added, stewed an hour or two, gravy made in 
same saucepan. Served with various garnishes. 

ROUND OF BEEF-“A round of boiled beef pre¬ 
sents a tempting appearance when garnished a la 
foret de Senart. Tie up some large branches of 
parsley into bunches, and fry; place these as close 
as possible round the joint of beef, so as to give the 
appearance of a forest. 

ROUX—Butter-and-flour thickening for gravies 
and soups. It is the beginning of several sauces. 
Butter and flour in about equal measure, but not 
very particular proportions, are stirred in a small 
saucepan over the fire together. White Roux— 
The above when it bubbles and has cooked two or 
three minutes is done, ready to have water added to 
it to make sauce or thicken soups, fricassees, etc. 
Brown Roux —The same allowed to brown in the 
pan or in the oven, used for brown sauces and stews. 

ROWAN JELLY—Rowan jelly, made from the 
berries of the mountain-ash, is by many preferred to 
red-currant jelly, as an accompaniment to roast mut¬ 
ton, game, etc. 

ROYAL CUSTARDS FOR SOUPS — These 
have come to be so called from their being the one 
showy adjunct to “Consomme Royaie.” They are 
pieces cut in some regular shape out of a cake of 
cooked egg that is like an omelet steamed instead of 
fried; made by well mixing eggs with a little broth 
or milk, pouring it into a buttered pan and steaming 
or setting in boiling water. Precautions —The 
custard is wanted to be solid and firm, not porous 
and crumbly, therefore the mixture must not be 
beaten light and must not be cooked with furious 
boiling; it should be set gradually at gentle heat. 
When cooked and cold it is turned out of the pan and 
cut in diamonds or cubes, or lozenges as wanted. 
Varieties of Ccstards — (1) They are made of 
eggs with a little seasoned broth mixed in. (2)- 
With eggs and cream. (3) With eggs and fish 
broth. (4) With egg-yolks and broth, etc. (5) 
With egg-whites and broth, etc., — making two 
colors and kinds. (6) With eggs or yolks mixed 
with pounded chicken meat. (7) With eggs or 
yolks mixed with chopped mushrooms, onions and 
parsley. (S) Green with eggs and puree of spinach.- 
(9) Pink with eggs and red lobster or crayfish but¬ 
ter. ( o) They are cooked in small ornamental* 
thimble moulds. 

ROYANS—Selected sardines; a superior sort. 

RUFFS AND REEVES—There are some small 
birds called ruffs and reeves, found in the fenny 
counties of England, and which doubtless, in some 







422 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


RUS 

variety or other, are inhabitants of the United 
States. The ruff is the male, the reeve the female; 
they are so named from the ruffled appearance of the 
feathers of the neck. The most delicate and highly 
valued of all small water fowl, they are made so by 
the treatment to which they are subjected. They 
are taken alive and fattened for two weeks on boiled 
wheat, or boiled bread and milk mixed with hemp 
seed. The secret of thus fattening ruffs and reeves 
was discovered by the Yorkshire monks in the 
Middle Ages; but birds so treated are still extrava¬ 
gantly dear, and considered superlative luxuries. 

RUSKS—(i) Slices of sweet loaf bread toasted 
dry in the oven. (2) Slices of cake such as sponge 
cake with caraway seed, dried and toasted in the 
oven. These were eaten as sweet crackers now are 
for lunches and with wine. (3) American and Ger¬ 
man bakers make sweetened rolls which are sold by 
the name of rusks, fresh baked. (4) Several grades 
of buns, yellow and rich, known by several names 
across the water, are made in this country under the 
one common name of rusks; eaten warm. 

RUSSIAN COOKERY—The Russians are great 
soup eaters. Amongst their most favorite potages 
may be mentioned Vesiga soup and cucumber soup. 
Russian Vesioa Soup —The Vesiga is a gelatinous 
substance that envelopes the backbone of the stur¬ 
geon. It is sold in a dry state, and bears some re¬ 
semblance to Russian isinglass. Before using, it 
should be soaked several hours in water, and then 
boiled in some light broth until it becomes quite 
tender. It is then cut in pieces about one inch long, 
and served in a clear consomme with or without the 
addition of vegetables cut in fancy shapes. The 
Vesiga soup is considered in Russia as very nutri¬ 
tious and wholesome. Russian Rossolnick —Cu¬ 
cumber soup prepared with saked preserved cucum¬ 
bers (a dainty dish in Russia). lit is made as fol¬ 
lows.: Cut four or five salted cucumbers into squares 
or lozenges of uniform size, und (boil them in water 
until done. Boil, likewise, some parsley root and 
celery cut in pieces'One inch long. Prepare a chicken 
broth with two young chickens, and when ready to 
serve, put the cucumbers,, the parsley root, the cele¬ 
ry and the cut up chicken into the soup-tureen, and 
pour over the whole the chicken broth, which has 
been previously thickened with six yolks of eggs 
mixed with cream Russian Caviare —A national 
relish deservedly popular in Europe is caviare, 
which is simply the roe of the sturgeon. It is served 
generally with dried toast, and handed after dinner 
•with the cheese. Bear’s Paws ala Russe— An- 
■ other national dish considered as a great delicacy 
in St. Petersburg is bears’ paws. They are first 
skinned, washed, and put into a marinade for sev¬ 
eral days. Then the)' are cooked in a mirepoix , and 
when done put away to get cold. When wanted to 
serve, the paw is cut into four pieces lengthways; 
egged, breadcrumbed and broiled. A sharp sauce, 
such as polvrade, piquante, or Robert sauce is 


SAC 

served with it. Russian Appetizers —There 
is just at the present time a craze among the Par¬ 
isians of the haul ton for things Russian which 
extends to the dishes at table. At not a few good 
houses the sideboards are now garnished with the 
Zukuska, which always forms the preface to a Rus¬ 
sian dinner. The Zukuska consists as a rule of ca¬ 
viare, herring, anchovies, smoked goose, smoked 
sausage and cheese. These delicacies are served on 
little enameled plates. The guests are supposed to 
go to the sideboard and help themselves at pleasure, 
drinking a little glass of bitters or vodka, English 
gin, or even kummel, to stimulate their appetite. 
When this has been sufficiently provoked, the com¬ 
pany take their seats at the table, where good Rus- 
sophiles serve a soup prepared from the sterlet, a 
fish caught in the Volga. There is another soup, 
which is said to be a great favorite with the Czar 
and his family. This is the savory “shtshi,” the 
quintessence of all national soups, and which ac¬ 
cording to a Frenchman lately come from St. Pe 
tersburg is prepared thuswise: Take a large and 
juicy piece of mutton, boil it down with juicy pieces 
of beef, and an unlimited number of onions, garlic, 
herbs, beets and spices; and serve the same, cut in 
small cubes. In Poland, a similar mixtum composi¬ 
tion is called “ borshtsh,” on which the Russian 
looks down with sovereign contempt. Another 
soup, which is frequently put upon the Imperial 
table, is called “ okroska,” a sort of mush or cold de¬ 
coction of pears, apples, plums and oat grits, with an 
admixture of small pieces of meat, herring and cu¬ 
cumbers floating therein. The Czar greatly affects 
chicken cutlets ala Poskarki, i.e. a chicken chopped 
very fine and roasted with slices of bread and eggs, 
served up in the shape of a cutlet; also pork boiled 
in milk, eaten with a highly spiced gravy. Other 
favorite dishes of the autocrat are fish prepared in an 
infinite variety of wa)'s, and a rich and spicy gravy 
called a la Samoyede (the latter being one of the 
great secrets of the Imperial kitchen), cucumbers in 
vinegar, and capons. All these dishes are now at¬ 
tempted in Paris. {See Coulibiac , Russian Salad, 
£oups.) 

S. 

SABAYON OR SAMBAONE—A custard con¬ 
taining wine, whipped; a foaming pudding sauce. 

SABATIER KNIVES—A special and favorite 
shape of cooks’ knives, the name is that of the 
original Paris manufacturer. 

SACCHARINE—The new sweetening substance 
obtained, like the aniline dyes, from coal-tar, and 
said to possess 300 times the sweeting power of 
sugar. It is a white powder, and although in the 
crude state insoluble in water, is supplied in a solu¬ 
ble form. A grain or so is sufficient to sweeten a 
cup of tea or coffee, and as saccharine passes through 
the system unchanged, it would be of special value 
to diabetic patients and others to whom sugar is ab¬ 
solutely harmful. The new sweetener possesses an- 










THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


423 


SAC 

tiseptic properties, and is a powerful anti-ferment, 
and hence should be useful as a sugar substitute to 
5 am-boilers and fruit-preservers. We are not aware 
that it has been experimented with in this direction, 
for truth to say, “saccharine” is as yet only an in¬ 
teresting laboratory product rather than a commer¬ 
cial article. 

SACCHAROMETER—A graduated glass tube 
for testing boiling sugar. (See Sugar .) 

S AFFRON-The petals of a dowering plant dried. 
There are two kinds which answer the same pur¬ 
poses of giving the color of eggs to cake and various 
culinary preparations. Can be purchased put in tin 
boxes at the drug stores. It has been very exten¬ 
sively employed both in medicine and cookery in 
ancient t mes and even more recently through an 
exaggerated estimate of its virtues but its use has 
very nearly died out. The method of using is to 
make tea of a pinch of the saffron, which is then 
added to the dough for buns or cake, or the rtsh stew 
or dish of rice, in which ways it is still regularly 
used in Creole and in Italian and Spanish cookery. 

SAGE LEAVES—Leaves of a common garden 
plant; easily grown and perennial. Can be bought 
in a dried and pressed state in pachages. Best flavor¬ 
ing for pork, sausages, .goose and tame duck. 

SAGE CHEESE—A cheese of the customary 
American York State or Western Reserve sort is 
sometimes to be met with streaked and marbled all 
through with sage leaves which have been pounded 
to a pulp and added to the curd of which .the cheese 
Is made. The peculiar flavor of this sage cheese is 
much admired generally, although the distrust with 
which Americans look upon ‘‘mouldy” cheese brings 
this under the suspicion of those who do not know 
its nature and makes it unsuitable for hotel tables. 

SAGO—Made from the pith of a palm tree which 
grows in the East Indies. Each tree will yield from 
Soo to 1,000 pounds of sago. It is nearly pure starch. 
There are imitation sagos in the market made of 
some cheaper sort of starch; the difference becomes ' 
apparent in cooking as the imitations dissolve and 
the form of the grain disappears; the puddings [ 
then become thin and watery. Is cooked in all the 
same ways as tapioca, in most of the same ways as 
rice and in soups. 

SAIBLING—Name often met with in Continen¬ 
tal menus. “ The best and most delicate fish to be 
had in Vienna are the different species of trout, one 
of which I have never seen elsewhere, though it 
certainly surpasses in flavor the ordinary kind. It 
goes in this country by the name of saibling ” 

SALADS, AMERICAN—The three American 
:salads are raw tomatoes, lettuce, and chicken salad. 
There are other favorites and nearly all varieties are 
•eaten when offered but the distinction in regard to 
-these is that they are wanted, missed and called for 
if not furnished, and missed by all. Celery can 
hardly be classed as a salad as it is always eaten 


SAL 

plain with salt, it comes next in the list of universal 
favorites, however, and then may be instanced the 
potato salad of thinly sliced potato, with parsley, 
oil, vinegar, onion juice, pepper and salt. After 
these the lobster salad, and, a degree less com¬ 
mon and more expensive, the shrimp salad, and 
then for lunch or supper another potato salad of 
sliced potatos in a yellow creamy dressing made of 
cooked yolks, butter, raw yolks, cream and vinegar, 
parsley, pepper, mustard, salt; the butter and cream 
being the substitute for oil. The taste for oil is 
soon acquired but as salad oil is not an article of 
general household consumption throughout the 
country it is anything but acceptable to the people 
who first try the stronger salads at the hotels. Still 
the practiced diner in general prides himself upon 
his aptitude at mixing his salad upon his own plate, 
making the dressing from the contents of the cruet- 
stands and usually the hard-boiled egg which he 
finds upon the top of the dish of lettuce; sometimes 
he must have a raw egg and with oil, mus'ard, 
vinegar and seasonings, compounds his own mayon¬ 
naise. However, this more elaborate dressing can 
generally be obtained from the chef's department 
and in most hotels there is at least one salad each 
day dressed with mayonnaise and decorated before 
it is served. Said About Salads —“In strolling 
through the central markets of Paris recently we 
were struck with the variety of salading displayed 
on the vegetable stalls. There is an old French 
book describing the 300 salads of Father Matthew, 
and it is said, and with truth, that a Frenchman 
may have a different salad for every day of the year. 
The proper moment for serving and eating green 
salads is with roast meat, and more particularly with 
the game or poultry of the second course. There are 
people who, without being professed vegetarians, 
would rather eat a salad without meat than meat 
without a salad.” A Nation Destitute of Salad 
BowLS-“It is a matter of hard fact that a salad-bowl 
is a thing unknown to 999 out of 1,000 eating-houses 
in England. In private houses and in clubs of course 
it is to be found, because English gentlemen of the 
class who belong to clubs know that a salad to be 
enjoyed must be mixed, and that it cannot be pro¬ 
perly mixed without a good-sized bowl. But let us 
go into one of Spiers and Pond’s establishments—and 
in singling them out I pay them a compliment. They 
are at the head of their profession, they have de¬ 
served well of the public, and if they fail in any point 
we may be sure that the failure belongs not to them 
individually, but to the English system. I have not 
been to all their establishments, but in those I have 
visited this is what I find. They keep an immense 
bowl on the buffet, crammed with a confusion of 
salad-herbs soaking in water. You ask for a salad. 
The waiter brings you a wet lettuce cut in halves 
upon a flat plate, and he puts down beside it an an- 
nulated bottle, full of the abominable compound 
known as salad-mixture. You politely hint to the 
waiter, first of all, that you prefer not to touch his 









424 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SAL 

prepared mixture. He takes it away, wounded in 
his feelings, and assumes that you are going to eat 
the lettuce with salt. You next make a demand for 
oil and vinegar, and try to explain that a salad to be 
properly mixed must, according to the saying, be 
mixed by a madman; it cannot, therefore, be mixed 
on a flat plate. The waiter then brings a soup-plate; 
if you are not satisfied with that, he brings a vege¬ 
table-dish, then perhaps a slop-basin; and if you are 
still discontended, he tries you last of all with a 
soup-tureen. As for a salad-bowl—which one can 
get at once in the paltriest French restaurant—it is 
not, as a rule, to be found in the splendidly fur¬ 
nished establishments of Spiers and Pond. This 
simply means that a salad properly prepared does 
not belong to the English system of the table, and 
does not enter into the calculations of those who 
cater for it in public. I sometimes at English inns 
manage to get a salad-bowl by asking for a punch¬ 
bowl. Mine host is nearly always prepared to make 
punch,■'though he does not know what a salad is.” 
The True Lettuce Salad —“Sir Henry Thomp¬ 
son, in his little work, gives a short and clear de¬ 
scription how to make this: The materials must be 
secured fresh, are not to be too numerous and diverse ) 
must be well cleansed and washed without handling, 
and all water removed as far as possible. It should 
be made immediately before the meal, and be kept 
cool until wanted. Very few servants can be trusted 
to execute the simple details involved in cross-cut¬ 
ting the lettuce endive or what not but two or three 
times in a roomy salad-bowl; in placing one salt- 
spoonful of salt, and half that quantity of pepper in 
a tablespoon, which is to be filled three times con¬ 
secutively with the best fresh olive-oil, stirring each 
briskly until the condiments have been thoroughly 
mixed, and at the same time distributed over the 
salad. This is next to be tossed well, but lightly, 
until every portion glistens, scattering meantime a 
little finely-chopped fresh tarragon and chervil, with 
a few atoms of chives over the whole. Lastly, but 
only immediately before serving, one small table¬ 
spoonful of mild French or better still Italian wine- 
vinegar is to be sprinkled over all, followed by an¬ 
other tossing of the salad.” Summer Salads— 
(/) Dissolve half a teaspoonful of white or brown 
sugar in a tablespoonful of plain vinegar; add three 
drops of tarragon vinegar, and cayenne and salt to 
taste. Break up a lettuce or endive wiped very dry, 
and add about half teaspoonful of chopped chives; 
pour over the lettuce a tablespoonful of oil, and well 
mix it about with a wooden spoon or fork; then 
sprinkle the vinegar-mixture over and turn all well 
about again. Garnish with slices of cucumber cut 
thin, or raw tomatoes cut in quarters. (2) A fresh 
lettuce washed and wiped dry, chopped tarragon or 
mint, a few young onions or chives, and half a cu¬ 
cumber. Put into a salad -bowl two tablespoonfuls 
of oil, a saltspoon of salt, half a teaspoonful of pep- 
pei, a dessertspoonful of castor sugar, and a dessert¬ 
spoon of vinegar. Then add the chopped mint or 


SAL 

tarragon and the onions; lastly, the lettuce broken 
up into small pieces, and stir all together, turning 
the lettuce over well. Garnish with slices of cu¬ 
cumber. (j) One raw egg well beaten up, a table¬ 
spoonful of oil, a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, 
and a dessertspoonful of plain vinegar. Mix well 
together; break up a lettuce, pour the mixtuie over 
it, and turn it about thoroughly. ( 4) Two table¬ 
spoonfuls of salad oil; break three eggs, drop them 
into the oil, well beat them up add a teaspoonful of 
tarragon vinegar and a dessertspoonful of cream; 
mix and pour over the lettuce. This mixture will 
keep for several weeks if bottled and tightly corked 
up. (j) Cut up a cucumber into very thin slices, 
drain off all the water that comes from it by pressing 
the cut slices between two plates; mix a tablespoon¬ 
ful of oil with a tablespoonful of vinegar, add pep¬ 
per and salt, and pour over the sliced cucumber. 
(6) Take three or four fine raw tomatoes, cut them 
up into quarters or halves; make a dressing of a ta¬ 
blespoonful of oil, another of vinegar, a teaspoonful 
of tarragon vinegar, and a dessertspoonful of sugar; 
pour it over the tomatoes; garnish with water-cress. 
All salads should be made about half an hour or a 
quarter of an hour before they are to be eaten. 
Hard-boiled eggs cut in slices may in all cases be 
used for garnishing. “The presentation to Lord 
Tennyson by Messrs. Spiers and Pond, of a ‘pint 
pot neatly graven,’ from the now demolished Cock 
Tavern, has evoked a fresh crop of gossip anent 
that Fleet Street rendezvous. Mr. Sala has, of 
course, joined in, and this is his amusing mem.: ‘I 
recollect the plump head-waiter at the Cock-Ten¬ 
nyson’s plump head-waiter; or, at least, his twin 
brother, or his only son, who was the very image of 
his father. With Mr. H. Sutherland Edwards I went 
one day, ever so many years ago, to “chop” at the 
Cock. ’Twas July, and the weather wouid have 
suited a salamander. Mr. Edwards fancied a nice 
cool salad with his cutlet—he was an adept at salad 
mixing—and asked the waiter for a cold hard-boiled 
egg. “A hegg!” ejaculated the obese servitor, “a 
hegg! Ilif Prince Halbert was to come to the Cock, 
he couldn’t have a hegg!” The plump Conservatism 
of the Cock prescribed oil and vinegar as the sole 
sauce for salad; hard-boiled eggs were scouted and 
banished as things only fit for foreigners and Radi¬ 
cals.’ ” Nest Eggs— “This specialty, which we 
owe to American inventiveness, would certainly be 
attractive amongst cold dishes for the hot weather. 
Its preparation is as follows: Take a quantity of 
fresh spring onions, or, if preferred, water-cresses, 
or mustard and cress, or, indeed, all three, using the- 
onions sparingly if objected to, and construct out of 
this greenery, in a large deep circular plate or bowl, 
the nearest semblance of a bird’s nest which the 
cook’s ingenuity can arrange. Then place in its 
midst some hard-boiled eggs, whole, but shelled of 
course, alternately with some pats or rolls of cream- 
cheese of the same size and shape as the eggs.. 
Milk-cheese may be used, and is sometimes pre- 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


425 


SAL 

ferred, whilst it is often easier of manipulation into 
the proper form than that consisting- entirely of 
cream. In serving this dish, a pat of cream-cheese 
and an egg, together with a due proportion of salad, 
should be given to each person, leaving everyone to 
cut up, dress, and season with oil, vinegar, pepper, 
and salt, etc., according to taste.” Better Mate¬ 
rial —“I am not sorry to find that the finely-shred 
salad-mixture, in vogue when Louis Napoleon III 
first gave his feasts at the Louvre, are once more the 
rage; fine thread-like shaves of lettuce, cucumber, 
and other salad condiments, whilst tender grape- 
leaves and tendrils from the winter hot-house forc¬ 
ing for spring-fruits, give a piquancy to the dish.” 
Mixing Salads —There is an Italian proverb on 
salad-making which tells us there must be plenty of 
oil and salt, but very little vinegar. The same rule 
is strictly followed in France, and it is a part of 
every Frenchwoman’s education to know how to 
adkl these ingredients in their exact proportions. 
This is so delicate a matter, that it is not usually en¬ 
trusted to servants in middle-class families. The 
undressed salad is brought upon the table, and the 
mistress of the house adds what she thinks is 
necessary and mixes the whole. True connois¬ 
seurs of the vegetable luxury wipe the separated 
leaves of the lettuce one by one with religious 
care. They break the foliage for the salad-bowl, 
never cutting it, and they debate and commingle 
the component parts of the dressing with anx¬ 
iety and scrupulous care. A good salad can be 
concocted, of course, out of fifty ingredients, 
from nettle-tops and dandelion leaves through cold 
potato and beetroot to the lettuce and the endive, 
which are salad plants par excellence. It is in dress¬ 
ing, however, that genius is most exhibited. The 
Salad of the Ancients — Our ancestors served 
salads with roasted meat, roasted poultry, etc. They 
had a great many which are now no longer in 
vogue. They ate leeks, cooked in wood-ashes, and 
seasoned with salt and honey; borage, mint and 
parsley, with salt and oil; lettuce, fennel, mint, 
chervil, parsley and elder-flowers mixed together. 
They also classed among their salads an agglomera¬ 
tion of feet, heads, cocks’ combs, and fowls’ livers, 
cooked and seasoned with parsley, mint, vinegar, 
pepper and cinnamon. Nettles and the twigs of 
rosemary formed delicious salads for our forefathers; 
and to these they sometimes added pickled gherkins. 
'The SaladeJaponaise —The following is the re¬ 
cipe ror the famous Japanese Salad, from Alexander 
Dumas, “ Francillon.” A7inetie : You must boil 
potatoes in a little stock, cut them in slices as if for 
an ordinary salad, and while the) r are still warm, 
season with salt, pepper, very good olive oil, with 
the flavor of the fruit in it, and vinegar. Henri: 
Tarragon? Annette: Orleans is better, but this is 
of no great importance; the principal thing is half 
a glass of white wine, Chateau Yquem if possible. 
Plenty of small herbs cut very finely. Boil at the 
same time some very large mussels with a stick of 


SAL 

celery, drain them well, and add to the potatoes you 
have already seasoned. Turn all over very lightly 
Therese: Fewer mussels than potatoes? Annette: 
Yes, a third less. One must discover the mussels by 
degrees; they must neither be foreseen, nor must 
they assert themselves. When the salad is finished 
and lightly mixed, cover it with rounds of truffles 
which have been cooked in champagne. Do all this 
two hours before dinner, that the salad may be quite 
cold when served. Henri: Can one keep it in ice? 
Annette : No, no, no. It must not be treated with any 
violence; it is very delicate, and all the aromas must 
be allowed to blend by slow degrees. “This salad 
is now being offered at most Parisian restaurants— 
to such an extent, indeed, that we have had rather 
too much of it. Your correspondent, whose di¬ 
gestion, like that of the tramp who requested the 
farmer’s wife not to fry his steak, is not that of an 
ostrich, has had “ Salade Japonaise” served him 
since last writing, no less than fifteen times, and is 
in consequence a melancholy man. The Grand 
Hotel makes of this salad a specialty at dejeuner, 
each Thursday morning—an innovation which it 
describes as an original and very Parisian idea.” 
Improved Japonaise — Dumas’s recipe for the 
Japonaise salad has been experimented with by the 
Parisian cooks, and as now prepared differs vastly 
from the famous exposition in Francilion. Chef 
Gabriel Berquier, interviewed the other day, gives 
the following recipe as the perfection of Salade 
japonaise and the recipe is well worthy of preser¬ 
vation: Boil potatoes in bouillon, mince them up 
when cold, add shelled shrimps, truffles and tongue 
cut into the size of halfpence; mix the whole with 
superior white wine, allow it to macerate for an 
hour; add to this mixture green sauce as for salad. 
On the other hand sprinkle minced truffles over 
slices of fresh or preserved foie gras. Prepare a 
jelly of meat-juice, white wine, oyster-stock, and 
gelatine, and spread some of this jelly over each 
slice of foie gras. Mask some mussels and some 
oysters in well-set green sauce. To serve, take a 
long dish, hollow in center. Salad in center; on 
salad slices of foie gras prepared as above; surround 
with mussels and oysters. Sprinkle dish over with 
slices of truffles and of tongue, and make little de¬ 
corations with the rest of the meat jelly. Send up 
to table with some green sauce in the sauce-boat.” 
Salade de Pommes de Terre aux Truffes— “A 
good recipe for a potato salad, which is in many 
ways preferable to the famous SaladeJaponaise. 
Boil and slice the potatoes. Slice also very thin 
some truffles boiled in white wine. Fill your salad 
bowfl with alternate layers of potatoes and truffles, 
beginning with a layer of potatoes and finishing 
with truffles, garnishing this last layer with a row 
of small, boiled onions, fillets of anchovy and stuffed 
or plain olives. Season with salt pepper, oil, and 
vinegar, and, after allowing the salad to become 
impregnated with the seasoning, serve. This salad 
will suit those who cannot stomach the mixture of 






420 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SAL 

mussels and truffles prescribed in Dumas’s recipe. 
La Salade du Prince de Galles-To which the 
Heir Apparent is said to be extremely partial—is 
stated to be composed of sardines boned and cut in 
small pieces, lettuce, watercress, and chervil with 
minced capers; the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs 
pounded into flour are added, with salt, pepper, 
cayenne, and mustard, and three tablespoonfuls of 
lemon juice. The salad is garnished with slices of 
lemon and pickled capsicums. Plum’s Pride —Is 
a capital salad; named after its compounder, a re¬ 
tired butler. Ingredients for six people: Three 
large floury potatoes, three tomatoes, cooked, a 
small cupful of sliced cold vegetables of any sort 
ready, a large lettuce, or two moderately-sized, a 
few sprigs of watercress, some slices of beetroot, a 
very little onion of the fine shallot kind, tarragon 
vinegar and common vinegar to taste, mustard, salt, 
and sugar to taste, and a teaspoonful each of any 
sauces you may have in use; oil or cream. The 
dressing is made in the usual way, the vinegar being 
added by slow degrees, in the proportion of one 
tablespoonful to three of oil. The tarragon is used 
to flavor. Rub the potatoes, while hot, through a 
sieve, the tomatoes also; and about two inches of 
beetroot; add the beat yolk of a raw egg with the 
tarragon, vinegar, etc., and mix all well. As tastes 
vary respecting the quantities of oil and vinegar, the 
mixer must use his own discretion. Mustard can 
be added if liked, also a chopped chili. Lobster 
Salad —This is the salad par excellence at this time 
of year. It is exceedingly fashionable and may be 
decorated with white rings of hard-boiled eggs and 
the coral or eggs of the lobster, whilst the fan or 
tail of the animal and its various long antennae 
(feelers) may all play an ornamental part in the get¬ 
ting up of the dish. The lobster must, of course, be 
boiled, and the meat of the animal, with a sufficiency 
of green-stuff, forms the basis of the dish. Very 
small onions and egg radishes may be used when in 
season, as also chervil, etc. A sauce of oil, mustard, 
cream, and a little cayenne may be served, either in 
the dish or separately. The decoration of a salad of 
this kind maybe carried to any length which the 
fancy dictates. An outer border may be made of 
alternate slices of boiled potatoes and beet-root, 
which will look charming. To keep this border in 
its position, fill the bottom of the dish with aspic 
jelly, and allow it to set; throw in the “greenerie” 
in bulk, and cover all with a very thick sauce of 
cream, oil, and mustard, seasoned to taste; then plant 
on the center, so as to stand erect, a few of the hearts 
of the lettuces which have been used, after which 
build around a border of hard-boiled eggs cut into 
fantastic forms. Anchovy Salad —“At Kettner’s 
famous restaurant in Soho they sometimes serve 
among the hors d’ceuvres anchovy-salad garnished 
with diminutive pickled onions.” Salade d’An- 
chois —“Kettner, or rather his successor, Sangiorgi, 
gives the following recipe: Wash in cold water 
some salted anchovies, steep them in vinegar, drain 


SAL 

them on a cloth, and take out their fillets, which 
shred likewise; place them symmetrically on a 
small plate ora hors d'ceuvre dish, garnished with 
groups of hard-boiled eggs, chopped parsley and 
onion separately also, with whole small capers. 
Pour a little oil over the whole,, and serve.” 
The Garlic Flavor — A slight rubbing of the 
salad bowl with a clove of garlic will impart suf¬ 
ficient flavor for a moderately sized salad, or a piece 
of bread crust may be slightly rubbed with garlic 
and put into the salad bowl while the salad is being 
mixed, and then removed. A Salad of Boiled 
Onions —Is quite a delicacy. The unpleasant es¬ 
sence of the onion disappears in boiling, and only 
its sugar and other innocent and savory qualities 
remain. This may be recommended for a change. 
The onions are not to be cooked soft, but sliced and 
parboiled. The Onion Flavor —A new idea for 
salads is to add the expressed juice of an onion. 
The effect is said to be excellent and something!, 
analogous to the practice of the French cooks, who 
wipe a frying-pan with a piece of garlic before they 
make a savory omelette. Salade a la Mulgrave 
—Although very simple in composition this is a. 
recherche salad. For 20 persons, say, take 6 cab¬ 
bage lettuces, clean and mix them with a kind of 
remoulade containing capers. Put this mixture in 
the salad bowl; then get ready some sliced tomatoes 
seasoned with oil. vinegar, pepper and salt, and put 
them round the bowl. Well dished up, this salad 
is very pleasing to the ej r e as well as to the palate. 
Beet and Potato Salad —Cooked beets cut in 
lozenge shapes, and potatoes likewise; kept separ¬ 
ate, but seasoned alike with oil, vinegar, pepper, 
salt and minced onion; mixed together and gar¬ 
nished with parsley or celery at time of serving. 
One of the prettiest ways in which to garnish win¬ 
ter salads is to fringe short stalks of celery and put 
around the edge of the salad bowl. Fringe by 
means of coarse needles. Bloater Salad —Broil 
2 herrings, remove skin and bone and cut the fish 
into shreds; put into a salad bowl a head of bleached 
endive; add the fish and 2 anchovies cut up, 1 dozen 
minced capers and 2 boiled and sliced potatoes; over 
all strew a few minced herbs, add a plain salad 
dressing, toss lightly and serve. Cazanova Salad 
—Shred the white stalks of 2 heads of celery in inch 
lengths and put them in a salad bowl with the 
whites of 3 hard-boiled eggs also shredded, season, 
with mayonnaise sauce and chopped eschalots, and 
strew over the surface the yolks of the 3 eggs finely 
chopped. 

SALAD DRESSINGS—Home-made salad dress¬ 
ing, it goes without saying, is infinitely better than, 
that bought ready made. A few not generally 
known items on the subject may be acceptable. 
First you can boil your dressing and so keep it, 
tightly bottled for 14 days; take 3 eggs, 1 table¬ 
spoonful each of sugar, oil and salt, 1 small table¬ 
spoonful of mustard, 1 cupful of milk and 1, or less, 
of vinegar; stir the oil, salt, mustard and. sugar in a 









THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


427 


SAL 

bowl until perfectly smooth, add the eggs well 
beaten, then the vinegar, and lastly the milk; place 
the bowl in a basin of bailing water and stir the 
contents till the consistency of custard. Tomato 
Dressing— The following recipe for preparing a 
delightful dressing for the tomato, when used for 
salad, will be found useful: Beat 2 eggs well to¬ 
gether, add 1 teaspoonful of sugar, y x teaspoonful 
of salt, the same of prepared mustard, 1 tablespoon - 
ful of sweet cream and 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar; 
place the bowl containing it in a basin of boiling 
water and stir till it attains the thickness of cream. 
P armentier’s Salad Vinegar- Is made as follows: 
Shallots, sweet savory, chives and tarragon, of each 
3 ounces, 2 tablespoonfuls of dried mint-leaves, and 
the same of balm; beat these together in a mortar 
and put them into a stone gallon bottle, fill up with 
strong white-wine vinegar, cork it securely and let 
it stand a fortnight exposed to the sun, then filter it 
through a flannel bag. Mayonnaise —See Mayon¬ 
naise. Mayonnaise dressing can be colored green 
with spinach green, red with pounded coral rubbed 
through a seive, and crushed strawberry with a few 
drops of cochineal. Aspic Mayonnaise Dress¬ 
ing —Melt a cupful of jelly, then put it in a bowl, 
place in a basin of ice water, mix with % cup of 
vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 1 scant of mus¬ 
tard, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch of cayenne; 
beat the jelly with a whisk, and when it thickens 
add the oil and vinegar little by little, lastly a little 
lemon juice, beating all the time. This dressing 
ought to be very white. A Ravigote —“We can 
recommend the following recipe for French salad 
dressing. To 3 tablespoonfuls of best salad-oil 
add a dessert-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, a salt- 
spoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper; chop 
finely some tarragon, parsley, chives (or a taste of 
onions), and mix well; it should be made half an 
hour before the lettuce is added.” Salad a la 
Jardiniere —Fine strips of vegetables of various 
colors all cooked and cold, with green peas and 
string beans, dressed with oil and vinegar. Salade 
aux Concombres —Sliced cucumbers with oil and 
vinegar. Salade de Choux Rouges a la Russe 
—Russian red cabbage salad with, sauce of sour 
cream, hard-boiled yolks and seasonings. Salade 
a la Russe —Cooked salad of carrots, parsnips and 
beets in shapes, pieces of fowl, anchovies, olives, 
caviare, oil, vinegar and mustard. Salade a l’Es- 
pagnole —Spanish salad of slices of tomatoes and 
pickled onions, with mayonnaise in the center. 
Salade a la Tartare— Lettuce, pickled cucum¬ 
bers, onions, herrings cut in dice, oil and vinegar. 
Salade a la Demidoff — Slices of potatoes and 
truffles, shallots, oil, vinegar. Salade a la Fran- 
caise —Lettuce or any one kind of salad only, with 
oil, vinegar, etc. Salade a l’Anglaise— Lettuce, 
celery, beets, endive and cress, with oil and vine¬ 
gar. Salade a l’Allemande —Slices of potatoes, 
Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and celery, with oil 
and vinegar. Salade a l’Italienne — Several 


SAL 

kinds of green salad and cooked vegetables, with 
meat or fish, anchovies, olives and tartar sauce. 
Salade a la Flamande —Smoked herrings or any 
dried fish, pickled shrimps, apples, beets, and pota¬ 
toes with oil and vinegar. Salade de Cre-.son 
aux Pommes de Terre — Water-cress and slices 
of potatoes, with oil and vinegar. Salade de To- 
mates —Slices of raw tomatoes with chopped shal¬ 
lots, oil and vinegar. Salade de Chicoree a la 
Francaise —Endive with oil, vinegar and garlic. 
Salade a la Madame —Lettuce with sauce of oil, 
vinegar, yolk of egg and seasonings. 

SALAMANDER—An iron with a handle, like a 
shovel of extra weight, to be made red-hot for the 
purpose of browning the tops of dishes which can¬ 
not be set in the oven; it is held over near enough 
to toast them. 

SALEP—A root known by this name grows in 
England and is used by the country people as an 
ingredient in puddings. Also: A traveler in 
Greece tells about a delightful beverage called salep, 
a decoction from roots, sold in Greek towns only 
early in the morning. The venders carry about 
their can of salep with a charcoal fire under it, some 
glasses and a can of water for rinsing them; and 
the cost, a cent a glass. (Probably a kind of sassa¬ 
fras tea.) 

SALMIS—A way of dressing game. A roasted 
game bird or animal cut up and best pieces reserved 
while a gravy is made by stewing down the bones 
with wine and seasonings, the gravy then poured 
over the pieces to be served. (See Game, Partridge, 
Grouse.) 

SALMON— Hints on Salmon Cooking —“Sal¬ 
mon ought to be eaten as soon as possible after it is 
caught. Nothing can then exceed the beautiful 
curdiness of its texture, whereas your kept fish gets 
a flaccidity that I cannot away with. N. B.—Simple 
boiling is the only way with a salmon just caught; 
but a gentleman of standing is much the better for 
being cut into thickish slices (cut across, I mean) 
and grilled with cayenne.” “ Salmon also, if it be 
a large fish, is best boiled in portions. After it has 
been a minute in the boiling water, lift the drain, 
and let the water flow off; repeat this several times, 
and it will cause the curd to set and make the fish 
eat more crisply. Henry William Herbert recom¬ 
mends a kettle ‘ screeching with intense heat, and 
filled with brine strong enough to bear an egg.’ 
He deprecates any sauce, as likely to injure its own 
delicious flavor, and speaks with the utmost con¬ 
tempt of the barbarism of eating green peas or any 
other vegetable with salmon. The thinnest part of 
salmon is the fattest part; and if you have an epi¬ 
cure at table, he will certainly feel slighted if not 
helped to some of it.” (See Scottish, Kettle of Fish.) 
Salmon Cutlets Fried —Dip slices of salmon into 
Florence oil, strew over them cayenne pepper and 
salt, and wrap them in oiled paper; fry them 10 min¬ 
utes in boiling lard, and then lay the papered cutlets 







■428 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SAL 

,.on a gridiron, over a clear fire, for 3 minutes longer. 
■Saumon a la Regence — A whole small salmon 
covered with fish forcemeat, to which chopped 
truffles are added; served with Perigeux sauce. 
S \umon a L’Ecossaise — Salmon crimped and 
boiled in salt water, served with butter and parsley. 
iSaumon a la Tartare — Broiled salmon steaks 
with tartar sauce. Saumon a la Hollandaise— 
Boiled in seasoned stock, served with Hollandaise 
sauce. Saumon a l’Indienne — Salmon cut in 
pieces stewed in curry sauce. Saumon a la Bey- 
rout— Salmon steaks broiled in papers, served with 
a sauce of mushrooms, shallots, parsley, and wine 
in brown gravy. Saumon a la Creme d’Anciiois 
—Salmon steaks stewed, and anchovy sauce made of 
the liquor with butter, etc. Darne or Tranche 
de Saumon— A thick cut from the middle of the 
fish. Filets de Saumon ala Marechale — 
Fillets saute and served with white ravigote or 
aurora sauce, garnished with shrimps or oysters. 
Mazarine de Saumon —A steamed mould of sal¬ 
mon forcemeat, decorated with shrimps, served 
with cardinal sauce. Mayonnaise de Salmon— 
Pieces of cold salmon with iettuce or celery and 
mayonnaise sauce. Canned Salmon— The Colum¬ 
bia river canned salmon is a remarkably good sub¬ 
stitute for fresh fish, when, as often happens, the 
fish does not arrive in time for the hotel dinner, and 
still the fish course cannot well be left out. It is 
made hot by setting the cans in boiling water, and 
the fish should be served without breaking or mov¬ 
ing it more than once, and with any of the usual 
boiled fish sauces. Canned salmon may be scalloped, 
baked in a dish of cream sauce, 01 au gratin with 
bread-crumbs and butter on top, in shells, in patties, 
in cassolettes, croquettes, rissoles, and in various 
other ways in combination with other fish and shell¬ 
fish, as in a matelote. Smoked Salmon ok Kip- 
tered Salmon— Has always been held a prime 
delicacy ; it is picked apart without cooking, deco¬ 
rated with green and .served that way for breakfast 
or supper, or else thinly sliced and served the same 
way. Also, steeped in warm water, sliced and 
made hot in buttter and pepper with a little water, 
or, after soaking, broiled and buttered. For Pa¬ 
cific Coast Salmon Fishers— The following is 
■copied from an old cookery book, dated 1753: “To 
pickle salmon as at Newcastle: Cut pieces accord¬ 
ing to the size of the fish; then take 2 qts. of good 
vinegar, black pepper and Jamaica pepper oz. 
each), cloves and mace oz. each), and 1 lb. salt. 
Bruise the spice pretty large, and put all these to a 
small quantity of water; as soon as it boils put in 
the fish and boil it well; take the fish from the pickle 
and let it stand to cool, and then put it into the bar¬ 
rel it is to be kept in, strewing some of the spice 
between the pieces. When the pickle is cold, skim 
off the fat, and pour the liquor on the fish and cover 
it very close. 

SALMON PERCH—“A Swedish fish, called 
-‘salmon perch;’ has been brought to the London 


SAN 

markets this year. It is beautifully white in color, 
and particularly delicate in flavor.’’ 

SALMON TROUT—A lake-fish resembling both 
the salmon and the Mackinaw trout, having salmon- 
colored flesh; but of comparatively small size. It is 
a fish of the first quality for the table. 

SALISBURY STEAK—For people with weak 
or impaired digestion. It is the notion of an Amer¬ 
ican physician. The surface of a round steak is 
chopped with a dull knife, the object being not to 
cut, but to pound the meat. As the meat-pulp comes 
to the top it is scraped off, until at last nothing is 
left but the tough and fibrous residue. The pulp is 
then made into cakes and lightly and quickly broiled, 
so as to leave it almost raw inside. 

SALPICON — Minced meat of any sort highly 
seasoned with spiced salt, lemon-peel, savory herbs, 
truffles, etc.; a mince of which a little is sufficient as 
it is used to inclose in quenelles, or in petites bou- 
chees , or small patties, in rissolettes, and to impart 
savory flavors to meat and game when placed in in¬ 
cisions made for the purpose. Chopped chicken or 
game with grated ham and spiced salt, moistened 
with sauce, is an example. 

SALSIFY-The oyster-plant. {See Oyster-Plant.') 

SALT STICKS- Finger-like small loaves of bread 
salted on top before baking, eaten with soup and 
with beer. Made in some hotels specially for a din¬ 
ner roll. 

SAMPHIRE—“A specialty of Pegwell Bay is 
pickled samphire, the curious seaweed so finely de¬ 
scribed by Swinburne in ‘Atalanta in Calydon,’ 
‘Green girdles and crowns of the sea gods, 

Cool blossoms of water and foam.’ 

The samphire is collected on a small submerged isl¬ 
and in the Bay, and is bottled for sale. It gives a 
pleasant zest to cold meat, and is said to go down 
particularly well with hot roast mutton.” There is a 
true and a false samphire; the latter is a salt-flat weed 
somewhat resembling purslane in its fleshy branches, 
but growing upright; it is also called glasswort 
from the large amount of soda which it yields to the 
glass makers; it makes an agreeable pickle. The 
true samphire, also eatable and sought after, grows 
on rocky cliffs, and is the samphire mentioned by 
Shakspeare — “the samphire-gatherer’s dangerous 
trade”—and in the couplet above. 

SANDWICH—Two thin slices of bread with a 
thinner slice of meat or something equivalent be¬ 
tween. “Meat, or potted meat, fish, hard-boiled 
eggs, or grated cheese may be used as the lining to 
the two surfaces of bread, etc. Be careful that the 
slices of bread are of the same size and thickness; 
choose bread of a close, uniform texture. Spread 
the inner surface of each slice with butter, and, if 
suitable, add a little mustard and salt. Chop the 
meat, ham and chicken, or tongue and veal, together; 
or, if only one kind of meat is used, cut thin slices, 
and cover the buttered surface with them. Lay the 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


429 


SAN 

other piece of bread or biscuit on the meat and press 
the whole tightly together. If fish is used, it must 
be chopped up small, and a little cream and pepper 
.and salt mixed in before spreading. Cheese is to be 
grated, and for cheese sandwiches plain thin biscuits 
are always used. For sweet sandwiches use marma¬ 
lade.” When sandwiches are made for a party at 
ball or pic-nic, the bread should be cut as thin as it 
can be in square slices; when the filling is in, these 
are to be cut across, making triangular shapes; then 
the sides trimmed off, making them all of one size 
and perfectly even. Pile them up and cover with a 
•dampened napkin till wanted. The Chesterfield 
Sandwiches —Are deservedly popular, containing 
:as they do all the elements of a comfortable meal. 
The interior consists of chicken and ham, accompa¬ 
nied with salad. Sandwiches a la Regence— 
Are also very appetizing, being made of lobster and 
small salad. Other excellent mixtures are anchovy 
and egg, or anchovy and water-cress, the combina¬ 
tion of saltness and freshness being much approved 
of by the epicure. Another odd mixture consists of 
sardine and cucumber, two edibles which “nick” ex¬ 
ceedingly well, probably on the principle of the at¬ 
traction between contrasts. These sandwiches are 
never larger than two inches square, and are served 
in a pile in a dainty china dish. Bodega Sand¬ 
wich —A tempting sandwich which is served in the 
Bodega wine-stores of London consists of an an¬ 
chovy rolled round the outside edge of a slice of 
hard-boiled egg neatly placed upon a thin slice of 
brown bread and butter. Woman’s Favorite 
Sandwich —Restaurant-keepers unanimously agree 
that the favorite woman’s lunch is a cup of bouillon, 
with a sandwich so thin that it can be lolled up and 
tied with ribbon. A recent innovation in sand¬ 
wiches, the idea of which is stolen by report from 
one of these lunching places for men, where women 
are not admitted, is to spread one wafer-cracker with 
jelly, another with pate de foie gras, and lay them 
together, all of which may be very delicious; but a 
woman’s favorite sandwich is an ethereal vision of 
bread and meat-l.ke two thin pieces of muslin slight¬ 
ly discolored on one side and laid together—a three- 
cornered combination of frailty. Tongue Sandwich 
-Cut up half a pound of cold boiled beef-tongue; put 
it in a mortar with the yolks of two hard-boiled 
eggs, a tablespoonful of made mustard, salt, and a 
little cayenne; pound to a paste; moisten with very 
little cream; spread the paste on slices of bread, 
press them together, cut them in tv o, and serve. 
Tim seasoning may be changed as fancy dictates. 
Shrimp Sandwiches —Made as follows they will 
be found decidedly appetizing: Pound i pt. shelled 
shrimps with y 2 small teaspoonful of cayenne, i tea¬ 
spoonful of anchovy sauce, y 2 teaspoonful of lemon- 
juice, and salt to taste. Cut some thin white or 
brown bread and butter, spread the mixture on it, 
cover it with a second slice, press them together, 
and cut into delicate sandwiches, which serve nicely 
garnished on a white damask napkin. Fowl Sand- 


SAR 

WICH —Cut the meat from the breast of a cold boiled 
fowl into small, thin slices; mince a few stalks of 
celery; place one or two slices of the fowl on a slice 
of plain bread, strew over it a quantity of the celery, 
and pour over the celery a little mayonnaise. Lie¬ 
big Sandwich —Toast two slices of bread, and while 
hot spread over them a thin layer of extract of beef; 
add a very little celery-salt; press them together, cut 
them in two, and serve. Brie Sandwich —The 
cheese known as frontage de brie is excellent as a 
sandwich. Take the necessary amount of butter re¬ 
quired to butter the slices of bread; chop up a few 
sprigs of parsley and chives together, work them 
into the butter and spread over the bread; cut the 
cheese into thin strips, put it between the slices of 
bread, and serve. Caviare Sandwich —Take a tea¬ 
spoonful of caviare, put it in a soup-plate, add to it 
a saltspoonful of chopped onion, a walnut of butter, 
and the juice of half a lemon; work well together, 
spread on thin slices of bread, press them together, 
cut the sandwich in two, and serve. For another 
caviare - sandwich combination see Caviare. A 
Square Yard of Sandwiches —“At a restaurant 
in Gladbach a visitor ordered a roll sandwich. When 
it came, he thought it looked rather small for the 
price—20 pfennigs—and sarcastically inquired of the 
landlord how much he charged for a square yard. 
‘Five marks,’ was the prompt reply. ‘ Very good, 
then bring me a square yard of sandwiches.’ He 
insisted on his demand, and mine host had to com¬ 
ply whether he liked it or not. But on reckoning up 
the damage he found that it took 120 rolls to com¬ 
plete the square yard, which, at 20 pfennigs each, 
would come to 24 marks instead of 5. Our traveler 
had a ‘ square meal ’ for once, and distributed the 
overplus among the other guests, who were greatly 
amused at the joke.” 

SANDWICH ISLAND DAINTIES—“The fol¬ 
lowing was the bill of fare at a dinner which was 
given recently by King Kalakaua to a party of Amer¬ 
ican visitors: ‘Raw shrimps, kukui nuts, taro, pci, 
cold chicken, crackers, raw fish, seaweed, raw crabs, 
raw pig’s liver, fruits, coffee, roast dog, ice cream, 
champagne, lager beer, ginger ale.’ The roast dog, 
we are told, tasted like duck. In Hawaii dogs are 
kept in pens and fed like pigs.” 

SANGAREE—A drink composed of wine and 
water with sugar, lemon, lime juice, or other flavors 
optional. It is named according to the kind of wine 
used. 

SARCELLE (Fr.)—Teal duck. 

SARDINE—“When it reaches its full growth, 
the true sardine is a little smaller than the herring; 
at this stage it is fat, oily, and of a mediocre taste. 
It weighs between a quarter and a third of a pound. 
This fish, which on the coast of Cornwall is known 
as the ‘pilchard,’ and in Brittany as the ‘winter sar¬ 
dine,’ appears toward the close of the cold season, 
and vanishes by June. It is then more than two years 
old. This sardine is salted, but never preserved in 




430 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SAR 

oil. It is the so-called summer sardine which is fried 
in boiling oil, packed in tin-boxes, and shipped all 
over the world. This is the same fish as the pilchard 
or winter sardine, only it is a year younger. It ar¬ 
rives off the Breton coast in vast shoals during June, 
and thenceforward until November it is taken in 
nets, the bait used being the salted roe of the codfish 
or a minute species of shrimp procured in the neigh¬ 
borhood. Whither it goes and where it passes the 
cold season is unknown, but it is believed to be a 
deep-water fish, which only in the months mentioned 
comes to the surface. This is certain, however, that 
it is met with only near that section of the Atlantic 
coast of Europe which extends from Cornwall to 
Portugal. 1 ’ Home Products Should Be Cheap— 
“Nearly all the fish eaten in America as sardines 
come from Maine. They are small herring. Some¬ 
times only a bushel or two are taken at a time, and 
at others so many as to endanger the net. The de¬ 
gree of dexterity with which they are cleaned is as¬ 
tonishing, especially as it is done by very young chil¬ 
dren. After this they are placed on large gridirons 
and suspended over a hot fire to broil. The boxes 
are prepared with attractive French labels indicat¬ 
ing olive-oil, but this is false, as the oil is cotton¬ 
seed. The packing is another operation at which 
little people are expert. A fish is seized in each 
hand and laid lengthwise in the box, first a head at 
the outer end and then a tail. After the boxes are 
full, a small quantity of oil is poured in, and then 
they are passed to men who solder them tightly. 
They are next thrown into an immense caldron, 
where they are boiled two hours, thus completing 
the cooking process and dissolving the bones of the 
fish. The actual cost per box, including all expenses, 
is said to be five cents.” The Sardine at Home— 
“It is safe to say that the sardines of Messina are 
not to be surpassed, though they may possibly be 
equalled. Hike Greenwich whitebait they are rather 
a specialty of the place. The waiter breathes a shrill 
whisper through the speaking-tube which commu¬ 
nicates from the ground floor to the kitchen. A sat¬ 
isfactory response comes very promptly in the shape 
of a faint sound of frizzling. As the whitebait are 
merely immersed for some seconds in a wirework 
cage in some boiling oil, so the sardines are sent up 
with startling celerity, considering the Italian habit 
of procrastination. The tiny fish, delicately browned, 
are served on a soft bed of frizzled parsley. By 
way of condiment, there are simply a couple of 
sliced lemons, and the result is so tempting, so 
fragrantly appetizing, that you scarcely take time 
to disengage the fish from the bones.” Sar¬ 
dines en Caisses— The fishermen all along the 
coast from Gaeta to Naples have various ways of 
cooking fish which are unknown in the great hotels. 
Many of them are interesting, and might be attrac¬ 
tive but for the predominating flavor of garlic. 
Fresh sardines, crisply fried in oil, are quite admi¬ 
rable eating, but the fishermen have discovered a 
more excellent way of dealing with them. They 


SAU 

place them in a shallow tin, imbed them in bread¬ 
crumbs, add a few savory herbs, pour a little good 
olive oil, squeeze a lemon or two over them, and 
then bake them over a sharp fire. The result is un¬ 
expected, but not disagreeable. Devilled Sar¬ 
dines — (/)-Try devilled sardines for breakfasts, 
teas, and “snacks.” They are easily done. Broiled 
lightly'-, a dash of lemon-juice, a pinch of cayenne, 
and there you are, don’t you know! (2)-Take 8 or io 
sardines, drain a little from the oil, cover with mus¬ 
tard and cayenne. Broil lightly, or fry in a little 
butter or oil. Serve on lingers of buttered toast. 
Sardines a la IIorly —Sardines dipped in batter 
and fried are nice, though not very substantial, and 
some persons like pilchards cooked in the same way, 
though they are too strong flavored to suit all pal¬ 
ates; a plentiful accompaniment of lemon is desira¬ 
ble. Canapes aux Sardines —A favorite Parisian 
dish is made of sardines carefully skinned and 
boned, laid on slices of buttered toast, and then put 
into the oven, with buttered paper over them, to get 
hot. Before serving lemon-juice is sprinkled over. 
Sardines with Potatoes —Slice parboiled pota¬ 
toes half an inch thick. Melt a piece of butter in a 
stewpan, and put in a layer of half the potatoes. 
A couple of chopped onions and some parsley must 
be stewed with a piece of butter in a small stew- 
pan. Chop sardines and stir them into the latter. 
Stew for a few minutes, then spread them over the 
potatoes in the stewpan. Cover with the other half 
of the potatoes, and stew them ten minutes; or the 
whole maybe done in the oven,with the dish covered. 
Sardines au PARMESAN-Sardines on buttered strips 
of toast spread with grated cheese. Sardines en 
Papillotes —Fresh sardines boned, stuffed, cooked 
and served in papers. (See Appetizers , Canapes, 
A ncliovies .) 

SASSAFRAS — A small tree abundant in the 
United States, the bark of the roots of which emits 
a fragrant odor and possesses mild medicinal quali¬ 
ties; used for making sassafras tea, a blood purifier 
and in sassafras beer and combinations of roots and 
herbs in beverages and medicines.. The bark can be 
purchased in a dried state at drug stores. 

SAUCES—Most of the established standard 
sauces recognized by modern cooks will be found 
described more particularly under their respective 
proper letters. Said About Sauces —“ For grilled 
dishes the following appetiser may be recom¬ 
mended: One teasponful of cream, one of vinegar, 
one of ketchup, a teaspoonful of mustard, one of 
Harvey’s or Reading sauce, a little cayenne and salt; 
warm in a saucepan, and pour over the grill.” The 
Proper Sauce for Salmon —“ Never take lobster- 
sauce to salmon; it is mere painting of the lily, or, 
1 should rather say, of the rose. The only true sauce 
for salmon is vinegar, mustard, cayenne pepper and 
parsley.” A Fish Sauce— “ A sauce often served 
in France with many kinds of white fish is made by 
putting chopped capers, a few drops of anchovy 
essence and lemon-juice, with a little parsley or tar- 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


431 


SAU 

ragon, into ordinary melted butter; the combination 
of flavors is acceptable to most palates.” A Paris 
Specialty —‘'Another recipe of la haute cuisine 
Francaise, which is certainly worth noting, is the 
one for grilled bream with shallot sauce (Breme 
grillee, sauceeschalotte): Clean a fresh bream, scale 
and cut off dorsal and side fins, also end of tail; trim 
and oil. Grill your fish over a moderate fire, pour¬ 
ing oil over it from time to time. Serve on a hot 
plate, with the following sauce over it: Melt three 
and a half ounces of butter in a saucepan, add two 
spoonfuls of minced shallot; let cook for three 
minutes; add the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, 
minced fine, two spoonfuls of Harvey’s sauce, the 
juice of one lemon, and some minced parsley.” 
Harvey’s Sauce —“A fair imitation of Harvey’s 
ssuce may be produced by working the following 
recipe Mince a clove of garlic very finely, add 6 
chopped anchovies, % oz. cayenne, 3 tablespoonfuls 
of Indian soy, 3 tablespoonfuis of mushroom or 
walnut ketchup. Put these ingredients into a quart 
of the best vinegar, and let them soak for about a 
month, shaking frequently. Strain thi'ough muslin, 
and bottle for use.” Stock for White Sauce— 
“A useful stock for white sance, soups, etc., ean be 
made by using the liquor in which fowls have been 
boiled. Tbe bones of the fowls themselves, the 
necks, feet, etc., should all be saved, and with these 
and a slice or two of lean ham, vegetables, herbs 
etc., no other meat will be required, unless the stock 
is wanted very strong. In this latter case, knuckle 
of veal is the best thing.” “A pinch of sugar is an 
improvement to all white sauces.” About Caper 
Sauce —‘‘Although caper sauce is the orthodox ac¬ 
companiment to boiled mutton, it is eqnally good 
with roast. Those who doubt should try the ex¬ 
periment.” Oyster Sauce —“Take 1 pint good 
white sauce. Open and beard 1 dozen oysters; 
strain the liquor; put them into the sauce, which 
should be in a bain-marie pan. Warm thoroughly, 
and let it come just to boiling point; then pour into 
a hot tureen and serve. The beauty of oyster sauce 
is that the fish should be like a well-poached egg; 
just to have the albumen set; no more.” How to 
Make Oyster Sauce— “ What a popular dainty is 
a tureen of oyster sauce, and how often is it spoiled 
by the common practice of letting the oysters boil in 
it! The proper way is to strain the liquor, and boil 
that with the flout and butter, adding a dash of 
cayenne, lemon-juice, nutmeg, and anchovy essence, 
and the oyster the last thing, long enough for them 
to become hot through, removing the sauce from 
the fire, so that it shall not boil after they are put 
in.” Sauce for Roasts —“ The following will be 
found a good sauce for roasts: Simmer a wine¬ 
glass of red wine, an anchovy, a little stock, a chop¬ 
ped shallot, and the juice of a lemon in a saucepan. 
Pass through a tammy, and mix with the gravy of 
your roasts.” Liver Sauce for Small Game— 
“Scald the livers, and mince them very fine. Melt 
a little butter in a saucepan, add a little flour to it, 


SAU 

and some minced shallot. Fry for a few minutes,, 
add gravy stock in sufficient quantity to make a 
sauce, a pinch of powdered herbs, pepper, salt, and 
spice to taste, then the minced liver and a glass of 
port wine; boil the sauce up and simmer. Add the 
juice of half a lemon before serving.” 

SAUCE — Admiral —Fish. {SeeAdmiral.) A la 
Minute —Quick sauce; flour, water and wine in the 
pan the meat is fried in. Albert —Cream-colored,, 
sprinkled with parsley; contains shallots, horserad¬ 
ish, vinegar, broth, veloute; strained; finished with 
yolks and cream. Allemande — Cream-colored; 
slightly acid. {See Allemande.') Almond —Sweet; 
custard with pounded almonds. Anchovy Butter 
Sauce— Brown; espagnole with anchovy butter and 
lemon juice. Anchovy, Anchois —Cream-colored. 
{See Anchovy.) Apple —Stewed apple strained; 
little sugar. Apricot —Sweet; marmalade diluted 
with wine and sugar. Apicius’ Sauce —Thick sauce 
for a boiled chicken. “Pound the following ingre¬ 
dients In a mortar: Aniseed, dried mint, and lazai* 
root (similar to assafcetida); cover them with vin¬ 
egar; add dates, pour in liquamen, oil, and a small 
quantity of mustard seeds; reduce all to a proper 
thickness with port wine warmed; pour this over 
the chicken, which should previously have been 
boiled in aniseed water.” * Artichoke— Puree of 
Jerusalem artichokes with other vegetables and sea¬ 
sonings. Aurora —Reddish or orange color. {See 
Aurora.) Avignon —Cream onion sauce, bechamel, 
garlic, cheese, oil, yolks. Bacon Sauce —Cold; 
fried bacon in dice mixed in sauce like Hollandaise. 
Bahama —Fish; chillies and onions in the fish gravy. 
Bearnaise —Yellow, buttery, with chopped green. 
{See Bearnaise.) Bechamel —White; cream sauce. 
{See Bechamel.) Beurre —Butter sauce. Beurke 
Noir —Fried butter, brown, with vinegar added. 
Bigarade- Brown orange sauce; juice and shredded 
rinds in espagnole and essence of game. Blonde — 
Butter sauce made with stock instead of water. 
Blonde Fish Sauce- Cream-colored with fine herbs 
mince in it, lemon juice and white wine. Boar’s- 
Head Sauce —For cold meats; currant jelly, port 
wine, mustard, orange rind and juice, shallot, pep¬ 
per, mixed. Bohemian —White; bread panada di¬ 
luted with broth, horseradish and butter. Borde- 
laise— Brown; espagnole, claret, shallots, garlic, 
lemon juice, parsley, cayenne, beef marrow. {See 
Bordelaise.) Bordelaise, White — Butter sauce 
with shallots, white wine, parsley. Boston —Same 
as Bohemian. Bourgeoise — Brown gravy with 
mustard and tarragon vinegar. Bourguignotte — 
Brown; Burgundy wine, espagnole, onions, mush¬ 
rooms, and truffles. Brawn Sauce —Cold; mayon¬ 
naise with extra vinegar and sugar. Bread Sauce- 
White; bread panada in milk, onion, butter, flavor¬ 
ing of white wine. Bressoise —Of Bresse, noted for 
fat chickens; brown; chicken livers and shallots 
fried, brown gravy, bread-crumbs, orange juice; 
passed through a seive. Bretonne —Brown; thin 
onion puree with chopped parsley. Bretonne, 




432 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SAU 

Cold —For cold meats; vinegar, sugar, mustard and 
horseradish. California —Brown; same as Bour- 
guignotte with California wine. Caper — Butter 
sauce with capers mixed in, and caper vinegar. 
Caper for Fish —The same with anchovy essence 
or mushroom catsup and high seasonings. Carrot 
Sauce— On same line as puree of celery, etc.; puree 
of carrots in butter sauce. Cauliflower Sauce— 
For boiled fowls; chopped cooked cauliflower in 
butter sauce. Caramel Sauce - Sweet; the brown 
coating of candy of burnt sugar inside of a pudding 
mould, which dissolves into sauce while the pudding 
is steaming. Cardinal —See Card nal Sauce. Ca- 
zanova — See Cazanova Sauce. Celery Sauce— ■ 
Cream-colored or brown; pieces of white celery 
stewed and added to either Allemande or espagnole. 
Celery, Puree of —Either white or brown; celery 
passed through a seive added to sauce. Champig¬ 
nons Sauce— Mushroom sauce. Chasseur —Hunt¬ 
er’s sauce; brown sauce with tomato, onions, mush¬ 
rooms, parsley, lemon juice. Chateaubriand— 
Brown; meat gravy or beef extract, espagnole, 
wine, lemon juice. Cherry — Sweet; cherries 
stewed with port wine and sugar, passed through 
seive, mixed with butter sauce. Chestnut —Puree 
of chestnuts mixed w ith either white or brown sauce. 
Chevreuil —Poivrade sauce with wine, Harvey, 
currant jelly. Chilli —Pink, variegated; tomato 
with chopped red pepper, shallots, sliced green limes 
mixed in white sauce with catawba wine; butter and 
parsley. Chocolate —Sweet; chocolate in boiling 
milk, sugar, vanilla. Clam — Like oyster sauce; 
butter sauce with clam liquor, yolks to thicken, and 
cooked clams added. Claret —Sweet; eggs, sugar, 
claret, cinnamon, lemon rind; whipped over the fire 
till thick and frothy. Cockle Sauce —Same as 
scallops. Colbert —Brown butter sauce; espagnole, 
beef extract or glaze, pepper, butter, lemon, parsley. 
Couutbouillon — Fish; white butter sauce made 
with the boiled fish liquor, boiled onion rings, and 
parsley. Crab Sauce —Similar to lobster; the crab 
meat in shreds in butter sauce. Cranberry — 
Stewed cranberries with plenty of sugar. Cray¬ 
fish —Butter sauce pink, with crayfish butter and 
crayfish tails. Cream —Butter, flour, cream or milk, 
salt, white pepper. ( See Roux.) Creole —Brown 
tomato sauce with shallots, wine, chopped sweet 
pepper. Cress Sauce —Boiled cress (chopped) in 
butter sauce. Crevettes —Cardinal sauce with an¬ 
chovy and pickled shrimps. Cucumber— Sliced cu¬ 
cumbers fried in butter added to either white or 
brown sauce. Curacoa Sauce — Sweet; syrup 
thickened with starch, butter and curacoa added. 
Currant Jelly Sauce— Jelly, espagnole, and port 
wine; boiled. Currant Sauce — The preceding 
with whole red currants added. Curry —Yellow; 
onion, ham, and parsley fried; flour, curry powder, 
broth, strained, thickened with yolks. Custard 
Sauce— Sweet; boiling cream or milk containing 4 
oz. sugar to a pint; poured upon 3 beaten eggs; 
brandy, vanilla, any flavor. Czarina— Brown sauce I 


SAU 

with sultana raisins, gherkins, etc. Demi-Glace — 
Brown sauce obtained from the roast-meai pan by 
adding broth and espagnole Devil Sauce —See 
Devilled. Sauce Diable —Devil sauce; grill sauce. 
Diplomate —Fish; pink; cream sauce with lob¬ 
ster or crayfish butter and anchovy essence.— 
Diplomate — Sweet; “dip sauce,” thick syrup 
with flavorings. Duciiesse — Cream sauce with 
cooked lean ham in small squares, and butter. 
D’Uxelles. ( See Duxelles.) Egg —Butter sauce 
with chopped hard eggs. English Pudding — 
Custard with sherry whipped over a slow fire tilj 
thick. Espagnole — Brown stock sauce made of 
mixed meats, vegetables and aromatics fried brown 
in butter, broth added, tomatoes, wine, brown roux, 
boiled slowly and long; strained. Essenceof Cel¬ 
ery — Green celery stalks stewed in broth and the 
broth added to white sauce. Essence of Game— 
Whole birds or rabbits, etc., or the bones only 
browned, then stewed and the liquor seasoned and 
thickened. {See Fumet.) Estragon— Like parsley 
sauce, tarragon instead of parsley, and little tarra¬ 
gon vinegar. FERMIERE-White, containing onion, 
capers, ham cut fine, wine, broth, butter, flour, pars¬ 
ley. Fine Herbs Sauce — Cream-colored with 
yolks, shallots, parsle) r , white wine in butter sauce. 
Fines HERBES(Fr.) — Brown sauce with chopped 
mushrooms, shallots and parsley. Flemish — See 
Flemish Sauce. FENOUiL-Fish. Like parsley sauce 
with chopped fennel instead of parsley. Finan¬ 
ciers — See Financiere Sauce. F lecrette —Thick¬ 
ened rich milk. Fruit Sauce —For frozen pud¬ 
dings. .Marmalade diluted with maraschino and 
whipped cream. Fouetee —Sweet. Whip sauce 
of yolks, sugar and wine. Fumet de Gibier— See 
Fumet. Game Sauce —Gravy from the roast pan, 
carcasses of game birds, broth, aromatics, stewed 
together; espagnole, port wine. Genevoise - See 
Genevoise Sauce. German— Cold. Currant jelly, 
orange, horseradish, sugar, mustard, vinegar, oil; 
mixed. Gherkin —Pickle sauce, brown. Poivrade 
sauce with sliced pickled Gherkins. Gibi.et — 
Stewed liver and gizzards divested of the hard lin¬ 
ing, cut up in gravy. Green Gooseberry Sauce — 

For boiled mackerel. Berries stewed, passed through 
a seive, mixed with white sauce. Groseilles Ver - 
tes —French gooseberry sauce. Green berries with 
butter and bread-crumbs. IIachee SAUCE-Brown, 
mixed. Containing shallots, mushrooms, gherkins, 
parsley, capers, vinegar, wine. Ham Sauce— 
Brown sauce with ham and small dice and shallots 
fried together, and lemon juice. Hanover —Liver 
sauce for fowls. Poultry livers boiled, pounded, 
with cream, lemon juice, seasonings; made hot. 
Harrogate —Gravy in the roasting pan with shal¬ 
lot, lemon rind and juice, catsup, claret, cayenne. 
Hard —Sweet. Powdered sugar and two-thirds as 
much butter worked together till white and creamy. 
Havraise— Strong broth of boiled fish made into 
white sauce with yolks and cream. HERB-For 
boiled calf’s head. Chopped parsley, chervil and 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SAU 

chives with vinegar enough to cover. IIessoise— 
Cold. Horseiadish, sugar, bread-crumbs and sour 
cream. Hollandaise — Yellow, like mayonnaise 
in appearance; hot. (See Hollandaise') Holstein— 
Same as Havraise. Horseradish Sauces — See 
Horseradish. Homard —Lobster in small pieces, 
with lobster coral in butter sauce. Huitres — Oys¬ 
ters in white or brown sauce. Indienne —Tomato 
with curry, anchovy, lemon juice. ITALIAN-Brown 
or white. Espagnole or veloute with chopped mush¬ 
rooms, shallots, parsley, white wine. Jambon — 
Brown sauce with shredded ham, butter and shallots 
lightly fried. Joinville— Fish, orange colored. 
The fish broth made into butter sauce with yolks, 
lobster butter and lemon juice. Jolie Fille —White 
thicken sauce with hard-boiled yolks, bread-crumbs, 
butter, parsley. Kari —Curry sauce, same as In¬ 
dienne. Kirschwasser Sauce —Sweet. Either 
cream or syrup flavored with kirsh. Kitchener’s 
(Dr.) Bottled Sauce —Mushroom catsup i pt.; 
claret i pt.; walnut or lemon pickle ^ pt.; pounded 
anchovies 4 oz.; fresh lemon peel, horseradish, shal¬ 
lots each 1 oz.; black pepper and allspice each oz.; 
cayenne and braised celery seed each 1 drachm; in a 
wide-mouthed bottle for 2 weeks, shaken daily, 
strained, bottled. Lemon —Sweet. Either custard 
or syrup flavored with lemon. Livournaise —Cold, 
for fish. Mayonnaise, pounded anchovies and pars¬ 
ley. Lobster —Butter sauce with anchovy essence 
and lobster meat. Lyonnaise— Rings of Bermuda 
onions lightly fried, added to brown tomato sauce. 
MADEiRA-Brown; espagnole with tomato sauce and 
madeira wine. Madeira, Sweet —Yolks, sugar, 
wine, lemon rind, stirred over fire till thick. Maitre 
d’IIotel —S ccMaitre d'Hotel. Maltaise —Brown; 
fine herbs mixture, sherry and orange rind in the 
meat pan gravy. Marinade— White; thickened 
broth with onions, parsley, aromatics, vinegar. 
Marrons —See Chestnut Sauce. Marrow —Beef 
marrow in slices added at last to brown sauce. 
MATELOTE-See Matelote. Matrimony Sauce-Foi* 
dumplings; brown sugar, vinegar, water, butter and 
flour boiled, thicker than syrup. MAYONNAiSE-Cold, 
yellow, salad sauce. ( See Mayonnaise.) Medicis — 
Sweet; chocolate-flavored Bavaroise made thinner 
with cream; cold. Milanaise, WniTE-Cream sauce 
with grated Parmesan. Milanaise, Brown — 
Brown sauce with mustard. Mint —Cold; fine-cut 
mint, vinegar, water, sugar. Mirabeau— White 
garlic sauce; boiled garlic passed through a seive, 
mixed in butter sauce and glaze. Mirepoix —See 
Mirepoix. Morels Sauce —Brown, like mush¬ 
room sauce. (See Morels.) Moules —Mussel sauce. 
Mushroom— Brown; mushrooms stewed in butter, 
espagnole and tomato sauce added, and wine, lemon 
juice and parsley. Mushroom Puree— White, 
mushrooms chopped, stewed in butter, passed 
through a seive. Mousquetaire— Cold; mustard, 
oil, tarragon vinegar, shallot, salt, cayenne. Mou- 
tarde— Mustard sauce. Mussel— Boiled mussels 
in Hollandaise; like oyster sauce. Mustard Sauce 


433 


SAU 

—Mustard mixed in butter sauce; for broiled fish. 
Nantaise —Cold, light green; pounded lobster 
mixed with ravigote sauce. Naples —For fish; 
cream sauce containing shrimp, anchovy, shallots, 
capers, flavor of garlic, lemon juice, cayenne, mace. 
Xapolitaine — Brown; espagnole with currant 
jelly, port wine and sultana raisins. Neapolitan— 
Brown; espagnole, currant jelly, port wane, horse¬ 
radish, ham and Harvey sauce. Niceoise— Cold; 
yellow with green, like remoulade. Made with, 
hard-boiled yolks, raw yolks, mustard, oil, vinegar, 
chives, parsley. Nonpariel — Yellow, for fish; 
Hollandaise mixed with lobster-butter, red lobster, 
mushrooms, hard boiled whites, and truffles. Nor- 
mande — Yellow, creamy; fish broth and oyster 
liquor thickened with roux and yolks. (See Mate¬ 
lote No-mande.) Onion —Four varieties; onions iri 
brown or white sauce; onion purees white or brown. 
Orange — For ducks; brown sauce with orange 
juice and shredded peel. (See Bigarade.) Orange, 
Sweet —Yellow custard with starch or flour, orange 
juice and rind, and Curasao. Oude Sauce— For 
cold meats; lightly fried onions in butter, tomato 
sauce, chillies, piece of dried haddock in shreds, 
lemon juice and water, stewed together, used cold. 
Oyster — Sauce poulette with oysters. Oyster 
Crab —Sauce poulette made of fish broth, oyster 
crabs added. Parisian — Maitre </’ hotel butter with 
shallots and beef extract added. Parisian, Sweet 
—Sherry, sugar and yolks whipped over fire, cream 
added. Parsley— (/) Chopped parsley in butter 
sauce. (2) Parsley juice and puree in butter sauce. 
Pepper— Brown; espagnole with addition of water 
of boiled peppercorns and vinegar. Perigeux — 
Brown, truffle. (See Perigeux.) Persil— Parsley 
sauce. Persillade —A green ravigote of chopped 
parsley, chervil, tarragon, mustard, oil, lemon juice, 
salt, stirred together. Piquante —See Piquante . 
Poivrade —See Poivrade. Plum— Prunes cooked 
in wine with cinnamon, mixed with espagnole. 
Polonaise —White sauce with thick, sour cream 
added, horse-radish, lemon juice, and chopped fen¬ 
nel; for steaks, etc., in Polish style. Poor Man’s 
—Broth thickened with brown roux, tomato catsup, 
essence of anchovy. Port Wine — Brown, for 
game, etc.; same as bourguignone, with port wine. 
Portugaise —Butter, yolk of eggs and lemon juice. 
Poulette —See Poulette. Prawn —Butter sauce 
tinted with lobster coral and prawns. Provencale 
Both white and brown. (/) White sauce with wine, 
tomatoes, garlic, mushrooms and capers. (2) Espa¬ 
gnole with tomatoes, onions, garlic, mushrooms. 
Pudding Sauce, Careme’s— This appears under 
several different names; it is Madeira, sugar and 
yolks whipped to froth over the fire; allowed ap¬ 
proach the boiling point, but not boil. Punch 
Sauce — Sweet; butjjpr sauce with lemon, yolks, 
sherry and brandy added; whipped over the fire. 
Ravigote —The name relates to the mixture of green 
herbs (see Ravigote) which may be either in oil and 
vinegar or in mayonnaise. Remoulade; —See /?<?- 







434 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SAU 

moulade. Robert —Name of a Paris restaurateur 
of Rabelais’ time, whose specialty this sauce was; 
brown; espagnole with fried chopped onions, mus¬ 
tard and glaze or beef extract, onions not strained 
out. Romaine —A sort of mincemeat eaten with fish, 
being currants, raisins, Italian pignoli nuts (like 
small almonds), sugar, vinegar and brown sauce. 
Raspberry —Sweet. (/) Raspberry juice and sugar 
added to whipped cream. (2) Raspberry syrup 
slightly thickened with starch. Ratafia Sauce— 
Sweet; syrup thickened with starch, flavored with 
lemon and ratafia liqueur. Raifort —Horseradish, 
cream and vinegar. Regent’s — Sweet; vanilla 
yolk-of-egg custard with rum. Ricardo— Same as 
salmis sauce. Richelieu— White game-sauce with 
onions and wine. Roe Sauce —Fish; soft roes 
cooked, pounded, seasoned, mixed with butter sauce 
and little vinegar. Royal —Another name for IIol- 
landaise. Royal Sauce —For fowls; puree of 
chicken, seasonings, bread panada, cream and yolks 
stirred over fire together. Sauce a la Russe —A 
white sauce with horseradish, vinegar, yolks and 
cream. Russian Sauce —Hot; shallots, lean ham, 
herbs, stewed in butter; horseradish, sugar, vinegar, 
wine, white sauce and yolks to thicken. Russian — 
Cold; horseradish, mustard, sugar,' vinegar, salt. 
Sabayon —Sweet; this also has half a dozen names; 
it is the same as Careme’s pudding sauce above, 
with cream added and whipped with it. Sage 
Sauce —For roast goose or pork; brown gravy in 
roast-pan with chopped sage. Sainte - Mene- 
hould — Cream sauce with chopped parsley and 
mushrooms. Salmis —The bones and trimmings of 
birds stewed with wine, espagnole, aromatics, and 
sauce strained off. (See Essence of Game, Fumet.) 
Saxony —Fish; butter sauce made of the fish broth, 
(see Roux), shallot, mustard, white wine, shredded 
lemon. Scallop Sauce —Boiled scallops and their 
liquor added to butter sauce with lemon juice. 
SnALLOT-Lightbrown; for ducks, pig, game; gravy 
from baking-pan with chopped shallots stewed in 
wine and butter added. Shallot Sauce, Mild— 
Boiled shallots minced and put in butter sauce. 
Sharp Sauce —For cutlets; shallots simmered in 
butter and vinegar, flour, broth, gherkins, parsley, 
pepper, salt. Shrimp Sauce —(/) Cream sauce with 
cut shrimps. (2) Butter sauce with anchovy essence 
and lemon juice and shrimps mixed in. Shrimp 
and Asparagus Sauce —Butter sauce with shrimp 
butter, shrimps and asparagus points. Sicilienne- 
Fried onions in rings in espagnole and marsala 
wine. Sorrel Sauce —Stewed sorrel like spinach 
mixed with either white sauce for boiled meats or 
brown sance for roast. Soubise —Puree of onions, 
white, with butter and milk, salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
pinch of sugar. Soy —An East Indian bottled sauce; 
it is made of purple wrinkled morels, galangal root 
and spices. Soyer’s —A bottled sauce. Sultana— 
For game; sultana raisins in game gravy with port 
wine. SuPREME-Cream sauce made of chicken broth, 
gutter, flour, essence of mushrooms and boiled cream. 


SAU 

Tartar— Mayonnaise with mustard, minced gher¬ 
kins, capers, chervil and parsley. Texienne —Same 
as Creole courtbouillon. Tomato- Tomatoes passed 
through a strainer, stewed down thick, variously 
seasoned and compounded. Truffle Sauce- Sliced 
truffles fried in butter, espagnole, wine, lemon 
juice. ( See Perigeux.) Tortue— (/) Turtle sauce 
for calf’s head; brown; espagnole with tomato 
sauce, aromatics, and sherry. (2) Veal brown- 
gravy with shallots, basil, thyme, sherry, lemon 
juice and rind and cayenne. Vanilla —Sweet; yolk- 
of-egg custard flavored with vanilla. Veloute-— 
The sauce which is termed “white sauce,” yet is 
not cream sauce. It is the stock white sauce of 
which other sauces are made; it is seasoned broth 
thickened with white roux, is fuller flavored with 
the vegetables, etc., in the broth than butter sauce 
which is made with water, yet has not so much 
butter. When veloute is further emiched with but¬ 
ter and glaze, and has egg yolks to make it creamy, 
it becomes Allemande, which is finished with a 
little lemon juice. Verte —Green sauce; ravigote. 
Venitienne —For fish; white sauce made of sea¬ 
soned fish broth, yolks added, lemon juice, parsley. 
Verjuice — For ducks; green grapes boiled and 
mixed in espagnole. Vert-pre— For eels, pale 
green; puree of spinach, chives and tarragon mixed 
with white ravigote sauce. Villeroi — White 
sauce flavored with mushrooms. Vinaigrette— 
Chopped shallots and parsley with an equal quan¬ 
tity of oii and little vinegar and salt; cold. White 
S AUCE-Either veloute or plain butter sauce. White 
Wine Sauce — The broth of fish that has been 
cooked in wine and water, thickened. La Belle 
Sauce —For fish; put y 2 pt. of cream into a sauce¬ 
pan with % of a nutmeg shaved, not grated. Beat 
to a froth the yolks of 2 and 1 whole egg, put the 
cream over the fire, stir till it thickens, put in 12 
oysters (raw) finely chopped, stir till the cream is 
quite hot and the oysters just set, then whisk in the 
eggs. Just let the sauce thicken, that is all; remove 
from the fire, whisk for a few seconds and then 
dress the fish with it after tasting it and seasoning 
with salt, or the salt may be added to the eggs. 
Garnish the fish with rings of apple dipped in flour 
and fried brown, alternated with half rings of lemon 
pickle. Yorkshire Sauce — Orange sauce for 
ham; espagnole, currant jelly, port wine, orange 
juice and boiled rind cut in shreds. Bottled Table 
Sauce —The recipe for making the genuine York¬ 
shire Relish is probably known only to the manu¬ 
facturers. However, the following is said to yield 
a good imitation of that popular sauce: 1 oz. garlic, 

1 teaspoonful cayenne, 2 tablespoonfuls Indian soy, 

2 tablespoonfuls mushroom ketchup, and 1 pt. vine¬ 
gar; boil altogether 10 minutes and strain, and bottle 
when cold. Bottled Fish Sauce —The following 
recipe will be found to yield a good fish sauce: 1 y 2 
gals, port wine, y 2 gal. walnut ketchup, 2 pts. an¬ 
chovy sauce, y 2 doz. lemons, 3 doz. shallots, 1 y 2 oz. 
chillies, 2 oz. horse-radish, 1 oz. mace, y 2 oz. mus- 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


435 


SAU 

tard; boil, strain and bottle. Your Own Table 
Sauce —The following recipe will produce a good 
store sauce: 2 pts. port wine or claret, 2 pts. walnut 
ketchup, 2 pts. mushroom ketchup, 4 tablespoonfuls 
anchovy sauce, 2 oz. fresh lemon rind cut very thin, 
2 oz. finely scraped horse-radish, 4 cloves garlic 
pounded, 1 tablespoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful 
allspice, 1 teaspoonful cayenne, the same of celery 
salt, or bruised celery seed, 1 teaspoonful curry- 
powder; put all the ingredients into a stoneware jar, 
and shake it well twice a day for a fortnight; then 
let it stand, and strain it into small bottles for use. 
These quantities will make very nearly a gallon of 
sauce; it will keep for any length of time and is very 
strong. 

SAUCISSON (Fr.)—Sausage. 

SAUER-KRAUT—See Cabbage. Before cook¬ 
ing the sauer-kraut, it must be well washed in sev¬ 
eral waters, then well drained, and put in abraizing- 
pan, with a fine piece of streaky bacon, a few Frank¬ 
fort sausages, some fat taken from the surface of the 
stock-pot, and a ladleful of white stock. Stew the 
sauer-kraut for 3 hours, letting it simmer gently all 
the time in a moderately heated oven; but the bacon 
and sausages will have^to be taken out when done, 
and put aside to be dished around the sauer-kraut 
when the latter is served. The Alsatian Way— 
Quartered apples, fat salt pork and a clove of garlic 
are put in to stew with the sauer-kraut. 

SAUSAGES—In Vienna a mighty fair is kept 
open on the green sward of the Wurstl-Prater, or 
Sausage-Park, throughout the spring, summer, and 
autumn months of every year. From April to Oc¬ 
tober the Sausage-Park daily teems with diversions, 
music, and mirth. Excellent beer, and plain inex¬ 
pensive edibles, are dispensed to the public at half a 
dozen spacious wooden pavilions, surrounded by 
scores of strong tables and chairs, amongst which 
meander the itinerant vendors of sausage, for the 
most part Italians, whose privilege of selling their 
toothsome wares in this part of the Prater first en¬ 
dowed the people’s pleasaunce with its predicate of 
“Wurstl.” From these active and vociferous mer¬ 
chants may be purchased every variety of the “far- 
cimentum” so dear to Germans and Italians alike, 
under the names of mettwurst, salami, leberwzirst, 
mortadella, bratwurst, blutwurst, Frankfuerter , and 
a dozen other sorts of highly-flavored, thirst-creat¬ 
ing compounds of meat, spice, and garlic. A Con¬ 
servative Public — “Mutton Sausages. I have had 
tho recipe for mutton sausages given me. It seems 
good and feasible; but I have not tried it yet. These 
sausages could be introduced into hotels and private 
families; but I would not recommend their introduc¬ 
tion to the public through the medium of restaurants 
or shops. The public only admit the existence and 
possibility of five sausages at present; viz., pork, 
beef, German, saveloys, and black puddings, and 
they will look with great suspicion on the other fifty 
or sixty varieties if offered to them.” Bologna 


SAV 

Sausage —The sausages of Bologna, which are al¬ 
most as highly appreciated as those of Strasburg, 
are made with 10 lbs. of fresh pork, chopped, and 
mixed with half the quantity of bacon, the whole 
being seasoned with salt, saltpetre, pepper, and 
herbs, and afterwards put in a well-closed bladder. 
The sausage is next steeped in brine for from 10 to 
12 days. It is ready to eat after having been boiled 
for 2 or 3 hours. Hamburg Sausage— The famous 
sausages of Hamburg, which are known in all parts 
of Europe, and are made in large quantities, are 
manufactured from the lean flesh of the pig and the 
ox, chopped, and mixed together with fresh pork. 
German Sausage —In making German sausage, a 
quantity of the second quality of pork—that which 
is welt interlarded with fat—is chopped up; but not 
so finely as in the previous instances. It is then sea¬ 
soned with parsley, cinnamon, bay-leaves, pepper 
—both in the grain and in powder—and spices. 
When the mixture is ready for filling, it is passed 
into skins prepared from the intestines of calves, 
and divided into sausages of about four inches in 
length. These are then exposed to smoke for a week, 
and, before being eaten, are boiled in w'ater for half 
an hour. In some instances, pea-meal, the meal of 
French beans, and lentils, are used for mixing with 
the sausage-meat. Cochineal is also added by some 
makers, in order to produce the tint which is so w r ell 
known. In the south of France, sausages of this 
kind are made with the addition of garlic. The 
French Crepinette —The flat sausage, or crepi- 
jiette , although it does not keep so well as the other 
kinds, is more delicious in its fresh state. It is made 
with the same mixture as that above described, but, 
instead of introducing the meat into the sausage- 
skin, it is enveloped in a piece of the caul of the pig. 
The sausage is flat and oblong in shape, and is either 
cooked upon the stove or the gridiron. Swaddled 
Sausages —Paupiettes; fresh pork-sausages fried, 
then each ]one rolled up in 6 or 8 young cabbage 
leaves, tied with thread, fried and turned in the 
sausage-fat for 20 minutes; drained; served on hot 
dish. Sausage and Potato Rissoles —Small fresh 
pork-sausages fried, cooled; potatoes prepared as for 
croquettes; each sausage coated with potato, egged, 
breaded and fried. Sausage Kromeskies —Cold 
cooked sausages dipped into pancake batter, dropped 
in hot lard and fried brown. Sausage Patties— 
Patty or “gem” pans lined with short pie-paste, half 
filled with sausage-meat, lid of paste put on, egged 
over, baked. Sausage Pudding— Put y 2 lb. beef- 
sausages into a buttered pie-dish and pour over them 
this batter: One egg, y 2 lb. flour, 1 pt. milk, y 2 tea¬ 
spoonful baking-pow'der; bake 1 hour. Surprise 
Sausages —Take large raw potatoes, cut out a cork- 
shaped piece and remove part of the inside sufficient 
to contain half a sausage divested of its skin, and 
bake till done. ( See Potatoes, Georgette [a /a], and 
Big non.) 

SAVARIN—Brillat Savarin, noted as the author 
of the Physiologie du Gout, or Gastronomy as a Fine 







430 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SAV 

Art. He was a French advocate, contemporary 
with Careme, De Cussy, Dr. Joseph Roques, and the 
last notable coterie of French writers on gastronomy. 
He died at the age of seventy-one, of a cold caught 
at Louis XVIII’s funeral. 

SAVARIN CAKE — A yeast-raised cake, not 
different from baba, except in the decoration of the 
mould with almonds; after baking, the cake is satur¬ 
ated with orange-syrup or wine and curacao. Sav- 
arin-Cake with Strawberry-Sauce— “A delici¬ 
ous entremets just now in the strawberry season in 
Paris: Cook 20 little savarin-cakes in dariole moulds, 
and, as they come out of oven, dip them in syrup 
flavored with lemon and orange-peel; let syrup run 
off, mask them with an icing of powdered sugar di¬ 
luted with strawberry-juice; build them up on dish 
into a pyramid, and send them to table Avith a 
puree of straAvberries, diluted with vanilla-flavored 
syrup.” 

SAVELOY—A popular variety of sausage ready- 
cooked; it is reddened Avith saltpetre; made of 2 lbs. 
saltpetre-pickled pork, 6 oz. bread-crumbs, 4 sage- 
leaves, 1 teaspoonful pepper; filled into skins and 
boiled. 

SAVORY —One of the seasoning herbs; can be 
groAvn in any garden; is far better green than in the 
dry powdered state as found at the stores; can often 
be obtained in regular supply from the market-gar¬ 
deners. There are tA\ r o varieties, the summer and 
Avinter savories, both fragrant and most excellent 
for soups and steAvs. 

SAVOY CABBAGE—A variety of cabbage Avith 
curly or crimpled leaves. 

SAVOY CAKE — Sponge cake; called by the 
French, biscuit de Savoie. 

SCALLOP—A bivalve; a larger sort of cockle, 
Avhite; shipped like oysters in bulk Avithout the 
shells, and obtainable at the fish-markets. Can be 
cooked in many of the same Avays as oysters, fried, 
scalloped, in soups. Scallops a la Bretoise— 
Cook the scallops in a little Avhite wine and broth; 
cut a feAv eschalors in small dice, fry them in butter, 
add the liquor of your scallops, streAv fresh bread¬ 
crumbs and the spaAvn of a lobster, chopped parsley, 
salt, pepper, and a piece of fresh butter; fill some 
scallop-shells with the mixture, cover with grated 
bread-crumbs, sprinkle a little melted butter over 
each, and bake in a hot oven. Devilled Scallops- 
Like Philadelphia devilled oysters, minced. Take a 
hundred of them and place, sharp edges dowmvards, 
in a large saucepan; add a pint of water; cover the 
pot, and set over a brisk fire; as soon as the shells 
open, they are ready for further treatment. When 
cool, mince the flesh of the shell-fish finely; add 
bread-crumbs, a piece of butter, pepper, fine herbs 
to taste, and mix the Avhole together Avith enough of 
the liquor from the scallops to make a stiff batter; 
fill the shells of the largest of them with the mix¬ 
ture, cover the top Avith fine bread-crumbs, moisten 
Avith melted butter, and place in a brisk oven until 
they are nicely broAvned. 


SCO 

SCALLOP SHELLS —Metal shells, silver, or 
plated, granite ware, or tin. They are made in the 
form of natural scallop-shells, that being the hand¬ 
somest shape for holding scalloped fish, clams, lob¬ 
ster, and all such dishes to be serA-ed hot in the 
shells. Can be found at the furnishing stores. 

SCHMIERKASE — i( Schmierkase has all the sea¬ 
sons for its own among the Pennsylvania farmers, 
but it is only in the fall that sauer-kraut and lod- 
waerrick get their Avork in. In the fall, too, metzel- 
sup is on the circuit, and many rise up gladly and 
chitch it.” Schmierkase or smearkase is the cheese 
made for immediate use from the curd of sour milk. 
The “clabbered” milk must be heated to the boiling 
point, when the curd becomes solidified and the clear 
Avhey can be drained off by pouring the Avhole into a 
cloth and hanging it up to drip. May then be broken 
up and seasoned either Avith salt, pepper, and cream, 
or as a SAveet dish with sugar or fruit. If pressed 
and kept, it ripens and can be made a good imitation 
of Neujchatel. 

SCORPION OMELETTE—“A curious dishAA^as 
prepared the other day for a British traveler in Mex¬ 
ico. The attendants served up an omelette, and the 
servants partook very heartily of the dainty morsel, 
but the traveler mistrusted the food owing to certain 
black particles mixed therein. Inquiring as to the 
nature of the suspicious ingredients, he could 
scarcely believe his ears Avhen the reply was given: 
‘Oh, these are scorpions,’ and an investigation 
proA'ed this to be true, the lower orders in Mexico 
thus utilizing the young scorpions, Avhich are dug 
out, hundreds in a nest, their sting being cut off be¬ 
fore cooking.” 

SCOTTISH COOKERY —There is a demand 
pressed upon hotel-keepers and steAA^ards for pecu¬ 
liarly Scotch dishes for annual celebrations more 
frequently than for those of any other nationality, 
and the folloAving repertory Avill be found useful. 
For the benefit of your readers (Avrites Mac Haggis) 
I beg to send you the folloAAung recipe for Grouse 
Soup which is a most palatable potage. It is usually 
made from birds Avhich have been hashed in the 
shooting, or cheepers. Let the grouse be plucked 
and drawn, joint them, and steAv the pieces patiently 
in two or three pints of diluted soup-stock till they 
are tender. Put the backbones of the birds in an¬ 
other pot, and simmer till all the virtue has been ex¬ 
tracted ; then strain the liquor from each pot and mix 
it together, restoring to it the best of the joints. 
Give this a smart boil in another pan, season to taste 
Avith pepper and salt, add one knob of sugar and a 
glass of port-Avine. If preferred, a little bit of car¬ 
rot may be boiled in the compound—many persons 
add a slice of toasted bread cut into A-ery small dice. 
This soup takes about tAvo hours and a half to make 
ready. Perhaps some, hoA\ r ever, Avoukl prefer to try 
the celebrated Potage a la Meg Merrilees, 
Avhich used to be serA r ed at Abbotsford. This soup 
Avas “composed” by the then Duke of Buccleuch’s 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


437 


SCO 

chef at Bow Hill in honor of Sir Walter Scott. A 
couple of ‘ gray” hens or blackcock, an old grouse, 
or two or three cheefers, with a partridge or two, 
are necessary for this compound, but no stock is 
used. Cut up the birds, and stew them in as much 
water as is necessary for making into soup, reserv¬ 
ing twenty or so of the fleshy bits for after-use. 
Put in the stew pan the heart of a small cabbage, a 
cut carrot, and a few large beans (about a dozen) 
which have had their skins removed; let them be all 
slowly stewed for three hours,- keeping the lid of 
the pot close. When the time is about up for the 
stew being done, fry the reserved pieces quickly in 
flour and butter, p ace them in another pot, and 
strain the liquor from the stew over them. Boil 
again, with a head of celery cut into very small 
bits; season with salt and a pinch of caj’enne. The 
second boiling should last for an hour or so. Note : 
Mac Haggis is not sufficiently explicit about the fry¬ 
ing “the reserved pieces in flour and butter,” which 
cannot be done; but means fa ire revenir (see Reventr ) 
—to fry the pieces in butter, then add flour, and after 
that the stock, which will be thickened by the ex¬ 
tempore rottx thus made. Scotch Hare Soup- 
“While I am in my battene de cuisine, I must give a 
formula for the making of hare-soup, as it is served 
on the best Scottish dinner-tables—a vastly different 
compound from what we are accustomed to in Lon¬ 
don. As much of the blood of the hare must be 
saved as possible; so that snared or coursed hares 
are the best for the soup-pot. L"se a couple; cut one 
in joints, in order to make a stock; boil it in as much 
water as may be required for the soup, with, say, 
two heads of celery, an onion or two, and an apple 
pared and cored. If haies are scarce, boil 3 lbs. of 
leg of beef, bones and all, by way of stock; joint the 
second hare carefully, saving every drop of the blood, 
which pour into the stock, both being cold at the 
time of mixing, having previously strained it into a 
clean pan; set on the fire, and stir constantly till it 
boils; then add the joints of the hare, and keep the 
soup simmering till they are cooked, say in about 70 
minutes; serve very hot, with a portion of the meat 
to each guest, taking care to give the head to a pro¬ 
fessed epicure. Sir Walter Scott used to say that 
hares were created to be made into soup.” Scotch 
Hotch- r otcii —“I may mention, too, that I am the 
happy possessor of a ‘ plain directions ’ for making 
‘hotch-potch’ and ‘cockie-leekie.’ The first is made 
of a great variety of vegetables—grated carrot and 
chopped carrot as well, likewise a chopped turnip 
and a few small turnips, the heart of a small cab¬ 
bage cut into shreds, plenty of green peas, as also a 
few beans (they must have been skinned); a teacup 
of cauliflower-heads, and a little parsley may also 
bfe used. The best meat to place in the pot is 4 lbs. 
of fresh lamb or mutton, cut into pieces or boiled 
whole, according to taste, but it is best cut into 
mouthfuls. All the green stuff required should be 
carefully cleaned. Let the soup be well boiled, and 
the cook should remember the useful seasoning of 


SCO 

pepper and salt. Do not make more of this soup' 
than can be consumed at one sitting; it is best when, 
newly made. The cook should religiously bear in 
mind that the fota<re must not be boiled long enough 
for the vegetables to lose their individuality. Beef 
may be used in place of mutton.” Scotch Cockie- 
Leekie —“Is a very appetizing soup, and can be 
made, if necessary, without a fowl. It should be 
‘ thick of leeks,’ cut in small pieces, the rank tail- 
ends being dispensed with, and the leeks ought to be 
well cleaned and the roots carefully removed. Three 
or four pounds of leg of beef will make a good found¬ 
ation; boil in as much water as may be necessary till 
the meat is in rags, a couple of big leeks being boiled 
with it. Strain off the liquor and place in it, cut up 
in small portions half a dozen or more big leeks, 
which boil till ready. If you have a fowl, cut off the 
fleshy parts and cook them till done in the soup, hav¬ 
ing previously used the carcass in making the stock. 
The compound, seasoned to taste, ought to be ‘thick 
and slab,’ therefore grudge not the leeks.” A Ket¬ 
tle of Fish— “A Tweed kettle, of course, which is 
‘par excellence’ the kettle. First procure your 
salmon, empty it, and trim off the rougher parts of 
the fins; then wash the inside of the fish well with 
pure cold water, and cut it across from shoulder to 
tail into many slices, each being about three quart¬ 
ers of an inch in thicknes. Your kettle (or pot), with 
the necessary quantity of water (enough to cover the 
cut-up salmon, and to allow of a little ‘ boiling in,’ 
as also of a helping of the liquid to each slice of the 
fish, as well as to admit of a portion being left in aid 
of the next kettle), should be on the fire, and the 
water boiling merrily. Pop the slices of salmon into 
the kettle, and let them cook for fully twelve min¬ 
utes; and remember this, the water in which you 
boil your fish can scarcely be too salt—in fact, it 
should be as brine. Long ago, on the Tweedside, 
when ‘the kettle’ was a greater institution than it is 
now, a portion of the water in which one fish was 
boiled was preserved as a foundation for the boiling 
of its successor. At Abbotsford, when a kettle was 
served on Sir Walter’s fishery, the usual accompani¬ 
ment to it was oat-cakes and flour-scones well 
buttered, no sauce being thought of other than 
that with which the ‘ venison of the waters ’ had 
been boiled, with pe. haps a drop or two of vinegar.” 
Scotch Broth —A Scotch Recipe. Put a teacupful 
of pearl barley into four quarts of cold water, let it 
boil, add 2 lbs. of scrag of mutton or thin flank of 
beef, two onions, two turnips, two carrots cut in 
dice, and one carrot grated; boil slowly for three 
hours; add salt and pepper to taste before removing 
from the fire. Kale Brose —Boil an ox-heel in 
three quarts of water, letting it gently simmer for 
four hours. Shred two large handfuls of greens or 
sea-kale, put them into the broth, and when suf¬ 
ficiently cooked stir pint of toasted oatmeal into 
a little of the fat broth in another vessel, add it to 
the rest, season with pepper and salt, boil all, serve 
hot. Howtowdie — Truss a young fowl as for 








438 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


S.CO 

.boiling. Place in a stew-pan 4 oz. butter, and when 
.the latter is quite hot, place the fowl in stew pan, 
and allow it to brown nicely all over, turning it 
round so as to facilitate this. When brown, place 
.a bouquet garnie, seasoning of salt, pepper, three 
cloves, three small onions in the stewpan with the 
fowl; pour y 2 pint of good stock over, and simmer 
gently for half an .hour. Now turn the fowl over, 
add y 2 pint more cil good stock, simmer another half 
hour. Havr ready some spinach, nicely cooked and 
seasoned, some rice plain boiled, and put in small 
moulds, and some sliced truffles. Lay the fowl on 
dish; the gravy will now be a rich glaze; pour the 
gravy over the fowl; arrange spinach in small pieces, 
or a border of it, turn the rice out of the cups, and ar¬ 
range little.distances apart on the border of spinach; 
lay a nicely-shaped piece of truffle on the top 
of each shape of rice. This is a very old and pala¬ 
table Scotch dish. Mince Collops — 1 lb. best 
rumpsteak minced fine. Place 2 oz. butter in a pan, 
and stew the meat for ten minutes; then add salt, 
pepper, and l /> pint water; simmer very gently for 
over an hour; .add a dessert-spoonful Worcester 
sauce, and the same quantity of flour, mixed in a ta¬ 
blespoonful of water; boil for two minutes; serve 
with sippets of toast and Swiss eggs. Swiss Eggs 
—Butter small moulds sprinkled with finely chopped 
parsley, pepper,;and saft; break some eggs, place 
one in each mould, being careful to see that the yolk 
is in the center of jnould, cover the moulds with 
buttered paper, and steam for five minutes; turn out 
of mould, when the parsley has a very pretty effect, 
all over the white of egg. Scotch Eggs —Take % 
lb. cooked ham or chicken, finely minced and sea¬ 
soned, mixed with 2 oz. breadcrumbs, and one well- 
beaten egg; form into oval balls, rather larger than 
an egg, egg and breadcrumb, .and fry in hot fat; 
drain, and cut in half; scoop out a small hollow in 
the center of each half, and place the half of a hard- 
boiled egg in each piece of croquette, press well 
down so as to be level with meat, have little rounds 
of buttered toast or fried bread, place each Scotch 
egg on a round, and serve garnished with fried 
parsley. Scotch Shortbread —1 lb. flour, y 2 lb. 
butter, y 2 lb. sugar, the yolk of -one egg. Mix the 
ingredients together, and work very w r ell for quar¬ 
ter of an hour. Roll out to one inch in thickness, 
cut in squares, pinch round edges, ornament with 
peel or comfits. Bake in very moderate oven for 
half an hour. The oatcakes are made of very fine 
oatmel, water, salt and a little baking powder; they 
are baked in a moderate oven, and are very crisp; it 
is quite a mistake to mix fat or butter with oatcakes. 
Jf nicely prepared without fat, they are quite crisp, 
and far more wholesome than when fat is used. 
Scotch Woodcock —Take three slices of bread, 
about half an inch thick, remove crust and toast 
quickly; butter on both sides and spread anchovy- 
paste thickly on one side only; place these on a hot 
dish, cover, and keep warm while you prepare the 
.sauce. .Beat the yolks of four.eggs, with a pinch of 


SCO 

cayenne pepper, until they are smooth and creamy; 
pour over, stirring all the time, one large cupful of 
hot cream; return to the saucepan, and stir briskly 
until the sauce thickens, and then immediately pour 
over the toast, and serve hot. Be very careful not 
to let the sauce boil, or the yolks will curdle. Scotch 
Oatmeal Porridge —Half fill a small pot with 
boiling water. Fill your left hand with medium 
fine oatmeal. Trickle it slowly through your fingers 
into the water. Keep stirring this with a spurtle 
(An<7/:ce, a stirring stick), that no particles may 
stick to the bottom, and add half a teaspoonful of 
salt. Add oatmeal till the mixture is of the con¬ 
sistency of treacle. Leave it on the fire three min¬ 
utes longer, stirring all the time—in all ten minutes. 
All the starch-cells will then, (with this fine cut of 
oatmeal) be burst open. Lay out five small soup- 
plates on the table, the usual quantity in a family. 
Catch hold of the bow of the pot with a cloth be¬ 
neath your hand. Pour out the quantum into each 
plate, using the spurtle to hold the pot in position. 
Leave standing three minutes to solidify and cool. 
Supply a bowl of sweet milk to each. Half fill the 
spoon with porridge, dip it into the bowl to fill the 
other half with milk, and you will have an article of 
diet surpassed by none in giving you brain, vigot 
health of mind and body. Porridge made from 
round oatmeal is best, but it requires twenty-five 
minutes’ cooking before the starch-cells are all 
burst open. It is, however, worth the trouble. 
Scotch Oatmeal Cakes— Put a small teacupful 
of water into a large bowl. Dissolve in it three- 
fourths of a spoonful of baking soda (bicarbonate of 
soda). To the solution add oatmeal till of the con¬ 
sistency of dough. Be quick, or it will dry and 
toughen. Have two baking-boards iS inches by iS 
inches. Place the ball of wet oatmeal on one of 
them, sprinkling dry oatmeal beneath to prevent it 
adhering. Roll this ball out with a 2%-inch roller. 
Brush all the dry oatmeal clean off, cut off the rag¬ 
ged edges, place the other board above, reverse and 
lift the former board. A girdle is hung on the fire. 
This is a circular sheet of sheet-iron, iS inches in 
diameter. Let the elongated cake of oatmeal slip 
from the baking-board on to the girdle. Cut the 
cake in four. Repeat the operation with another 
cake. When half done, turn the four cakes on the 
girdle, as they will by that time be “done” on the 
under side. When ready with the second cake, lift 
off the first four cakes and place them before the 
fire to dry, as by that time they will be done enough. 
This, of course, has to be noticed. Regulate the 
height of the girdle from the fire according to the 
heat. Remember the old rhyme that King Alfred 
forgot— 

“The bannocks are burnin’, 

And ready for turnin’,” 

and you will have from the ordinary sweet, fine 
Scotch oatmeal a well-flavored and wholesome 
cake. Fresh, newly made butter added to this and 
a finnon haddock will make a very palatable break- 





439 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SCO 

fast. These two articles of food have been the 
principal cause of the energy, the vitality, the force, 
the vigor, the virility, the simplicity and the ability 
of the Scotch character. Scotch Pudding-To one 
qvart of well-cooked barley add six ounces of sifted 
sugar, mix both together with one quart of milk in 
a stewpan, then add four ounces of fresh butter, a 
pinch of salt, the rind of a lemon rubbed on sugar, 
and a wineglassful of whisky. Stir the whole on 
the fire until it boils, and then work the batter per¬ 
fectly smooth; next work in six yolks of eggs, and 
then lightly mix in six whites of eggs whisked into 
a firm froth; pour the batter into a slightly buttered 
pie-dish and bake the pudding in moderate heat. 
Scotch HAGGis-Take the stomach of a sheep, wash it 
well, and let it soak for several hours in cold salt and 
water, then turn it inside out, put it into boiling water 
scald, scrape it quickly with a knife, and let it re¬ 
main in water until wanted. Clean a sheep’s pluck 
thoroughly. Pierce the heart and the liver in several 
places, to let the blood run out, and boil the liver 



THE HAGGIS. 


Fair fa’ your honest sonsie face; 

Weel are ye worthy o’ a grace 
As lang’s my airm. 

and lights for an hour and a half. When they have 
boiled a quarter of an hour, put them into fresh 
water, and, during the last half hour, let the rest of 
the pluck be boiled with them. Trim away the skins, 
and any discolored parts there may be, grate half of 
the liver, and mince all the rest very finely; add a 
pound of finely-shred suet, two chopped onions, 
half a pint of oatmeal, or, if preferred, half a pound 
of oat-cakes, toasted and crumbled, two teaspoon- 
fuls of salt, and one of pepper, half a nutmeg, grated, 
and a grain of cayenne. Moisten with half a pint 
of good gravy and the juice of a small lemon, and 
put the mixture into the bag already prepared for it. 
Be careful to leave room for swelling, sew it se¬ 
curely, and plunge it into boiling water. It will re¬ 
quire three hours’ gentle boiling. Prick it with a 
needle every now and then, especially during the 
first half hour, to let the air out. A haggis should 
be sent to table as hot as possible, and neither sauce 
nor gravy should be served with it. The above is 
sufficient for eight or ten persons. A Scottish Bill 
of Fare— Dinner given by the Scottish Society of 
Sheffield, at the Clarence Hotel in that town, to 
commemmorate the anniversary of the poet Burns: 
The Prases wi’ admonition due will say the “Sel¬ 
kirk Grace.” 


SCR 

Some ha’e meat that canna eat, 

An’ some wad eat that want it; 

But we ha’e meat an’ we can eat, 

Sae let the Lord be thankit. 

The Denner — First Aiww’-Cock o’ Leekie. Clear 
Turtle. Scotch Broth. Second Roun’-Salmon, Fen¬ 
nel Sauce. Frizzled Smelts, Sauce Tartare. Bristled 
Glesca’ Magistrates. Third Roun'- Scotch Collops. 
Calf’s Heid an’ Mushrooms. Stewed Kidneys a la 
Champagne. Fourth Roun’ — The Pibroch will 
soun’ the approach o’ The Haggis, A wee drap o’ 
Talisker. Fifth Roun' —A bit wee lambie an’ a bit 
o’ its Mither. Sirloin o’ Beef. Tatties Biled an’ 
Chappit. Bashed Neeps. Sixth Roun ’—Roastit an’ 
Biled Bubbly Jock. Roastit Deuks an’Hens. Tung 
an’ Grumphy a la Champagne. Seventh Roun '— 
Some sma’ Birds. Roastit Pheasants an’ Muir Fowl. 
Eighth Roun' —Cabinet Puddin’. Lemon Puddin’. 
Ninth Roun' —Sultane, French Pastry, Compote of 
Rhubarb, an’ Orange, Greengage an’ Apple Tairts, 
Charlotte Russea n’ Raspberry Creams, Custard, 
Meringues a la Creme, Noyeau an’ Maraschinojel- 
lies Trifle, wi’ ither sunlcets couthie to the kyte. 
ZL\y.?<?r/-P;neapples, Grapes, Apricots, Pears, Oran¬ 
ges, Apples, Filberts, Walnuts, etc. 

We thank Thee for these mercies, Lord, 

Sae far beyond oor merits; 

Noo, waiter lads, clear aff the plates, 

An’ fesh us in the spirits. 

Wines, etc. (List on the Table). But nane need 
drink that are na dry. Curler’s Pudding — 
“At a supper recently served at the Caledonian Ho¬ 
tel, Oban, to the local Curling Clubs, Mr. and Mrs. 
Craig Watt (the worthy host and hostess) created a 
welcome surprise by including in the bill of fare a 
“Curlers’ Pudding,” a novelty not less delicious to 
the taste than singular in appearance. There were 
two of these puddings, one at each end of the table, 
exactly the size and color of a pair of curling stones, 
resembling polished Ben Cruachan granite, and sur¬ 
mounted with a pair of real handles. A “ Calf” 
Dinner —At a dinner given by Lord Polkemmet, of 
the Scottish Bar, his guests saw, when the covers 
were removed, that the fare consisted of veal broth, 
a roasted fillet of veal, veal cutlets, a veal pie, a 
calf’s head, and calf’s-foot jelly. The judge, ob¬ 
serving the surprise of his guests, volunteered an 
explanation. “Ou, ay, it’s a cauf; when we kill a 
beast, we just eat up ae side, and down the other.” 

SCONES—Scotch name for baking powder bis¬ 
cuits, There are also soda scones, or biscuits, gra¬ 
ham scones, etc. 

SCOTCH BUNS—Made like dumplings, the out¬ 
side being light dough made as for French rolls, 
with a good allowance of butter in it, the filling a 
walnut-sized ball of currants, raisins, almonds, cit¬ 
ron and spice stuck together with enough butter and 
flour. The dumplings, flattened a little, are notched 
on the side, allowed to rise, egged over, and baked. 
(See Simnels.) 

SCRAG OF MUTTON — The real neck. The 
neck of mutton, or lamb, or veal mentioned so fre- 





















440 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK 


SCR 

quently in cook-book directions generally means 
what in this country is called the rack, the best part 
of the ribs which furnishes the shapely cutlets. 

SCRAPPLE—Domestic and local name, credited 
to Pennsylvania, of a mixture of head-cheese and 
cornmeal boiled together, and when cold cut into 
slices and fried. 

SCUPPERNONG-A large Southern wild grape. 
Good for making wine. Comes to market as loose 
berries, like plums, and not in clusters; not choice 
for the table. 

SEA COW—The flesh of the sea-cow, found in 
the vast rivers of Brazil, resembles fresh pork, and 
is excellent. Sausages are made of it and sent to 
Portugal as a great delicacy. 

SEA KALE—It is well known that this popular 
vegetable is used in a forced and always blanched 
state. It is a native of the seashore and cliffs of the 
south and west coasts of England. “ For centuries 
before it was known, as now, at the tables of the 
great and wealthy^, it was an object of special re¬ 
gard in the humble dwellings of the south coast 
fishermen. Clambering up the cliffs, and swinging 
themselves by means of ropes over precipitous 
heights, they encountered any amount of danger to 
obtain, in spring, the tender shoots of that delicious 
vegetable as they were just emerging from the 
sand and shingle in which they grew.” It is cooked 
in the usual way for greens and cabbage, generally 
boiled with bacon. 

SEA TROUT—An American sea-fish, speckled 
and otherwise resembling a brook trout, yet not of 
the salmonida? family. Common and plentiful, from 
i to 2 pounds weight. 

SEA-URCHIN —“Another radiate, and the only' 
other one of this class that I know to be eatable, is 
the Echinus — the sea-urchin, or sea-egg. This 
animal carries a system of channels and membranes 
in a hollow globe of flinty, but brittle texture, cov¬ 
ered by spines, like a miniature hedgehog well 
rolled up. Examine one when it holds no eggs, and 
you will find nothing eatable about it, inside or out. 
Whatever the season, however, but especially in 
summer, a large proportion of them will contain 
several bunches of orange-yellow eggs so minute 
that the whole contents of a big echinus will not fill 
a dessert-spoon. These eggs taste like an oyster 
and are nutritious; they call for no cooking, and are 
easily got at. Thus they have always been fed upon 
as a relish by half-refined coast people like those of 
Eastern Asia and its neighboring islands, and by 
the well-supplied Indians of Puget Sound and Brit¬ 
ish Columbia, and have proved the stand-by of mis¬ 
erable savages whose desolate homes afford them 
little else to maintain life. The Neapolitan poor 
are not as a rule dainty, but, while delighting in 
sea-urchin, they look down with scorn upon the 
Calabrese, because they eat sea-slugs, which, if 
properly cooked, are not very bad.” 

SEA-SLUG-See Eeche de Mcr. 


SHE 

SEED CAKES—Plain and cheap sorts of cakes 
flavored with caraway seeds. (/) Made of i lb. 
butter, i lb. sugar, S eggs, 3 lbs. flour, 6 teaspoons 
powder, 1 02.. caraway seed, 1% pts. milk, 3 oz. cit¬ 
ron chopped fine; baked in moulds. (2) 1 lb. sugar, 
% lb. butter, 5 eggs, 3^ lbs. flour, 6 teaspoons pow¬ 
der, 1 qt. milk, lemon extract and ^ oz. caraway 
seeds; baked in small moulds. 

SEMOLINA—Known in this country as farina; 
it is the same thing made from wheat that fine 
hominy “grits” is from corn. ( See Farina, Soups .) 

SERVIETTE (Fr.) -Napkin. 

SHAD—American sea-fish; an early spring lux¬ 
ury. It enters the rivers in immense shoals, the 
southern rivers first and those further northward in 
succession as the season advances, where it is taken 
and shipped to all parts of the country. The shad 
rarely exceeds 4 lbs. weight, it tastes like fresh her¬ 
ring, is best broiled, but is cooked in a variety of 
other ways. The one drawback is the abundance 
of small bones in its flesh. When to be broiled, or 
opened and stuffed, the back-bone should be re¬ 
moved and then the rib bones drawn out with the 
fingers, which will be found an improvement and 
facilitates the carving of the fish. Broiled Shad 
a la Clermont —Split down the back, the spine 
removed, the fish steeped an hour in oil and lemon 
juice, broiled, doubled to its original shape, served 
with fried oysters and fried pieces of shad roe 
around and maitre d'hotel sauce. Alose a la 
Maitre d’FIotel —Shad cooked as above, served 
fiat as it is, broiled, with the sauce and parsley and 
lemons. 

SHAD ROES—See Fish Roes, Laitances. 

SHADDOCK OR “GRAPE FRUIT” —The 
shaddock is a handsome, though scarcely a delicious, 
addition to our dessert fruits; the flavor of its juice 
being a sweetish acid, intermediate between that of 
the orange and the lemon, with rather a bitter taste. 
It may not be generally known that the best marma¬ 
lade is produced from the shaddock, a sort of cross 
between the orange and the lemon, and named after 
a Captain Shaddock, who first brought it from 
China, or, as some say, from Guinea, and planted it 
in the West Indies, whence we derive our limited 
supply. 

SHALLOT—That variety of onion which grows 
from a bunch of roots, and does not form one com¬ 
pact bulb. It brings the earliest spring onions, the 
roots being divided and planted singly. Is oftenest 
named in cooking directions, as it is the mildest 
flavored of the onion tribe. 

SHARK—In Havana the shark is sold as food in 
the open market. The almond-eyed heathen Chin¬ 
ese loves shark’s fins cooked with bamboo shoots. 

SHEEP HEAD—An American sea-fish of excel¬ 
lent quality. Its name is misleading, unless spelled 
as above, to those who do not know that actual 
sheeps’ heads are not eaten in the. United States. It. 












THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


441 


SHE 

is very generally spelled sheeps-head in the North 
and sheephead in the South; the latter is the right 
way, as it is not a sheep’s head, but a sheep-headed 
fish, the resemblance consisting in its having rows 
of front teeth and a sheep-like mouth. It is best 
cooked by boiling. 

SHEERA 1 I—“ I remember one day at a chapar- 
khana in Persia the chapar-jee said he could pro¬ 
vide me with both eggs and sheerah. Sheerah is a 
sort of thin molasses made from sweet grapes. He 
seemed a pretty intelligent sort of a young man, so 
I contented myself with telling him to go ahead and 
cook the eggs. When supper-time came round the 
salaaming chapar-jie presented himself with a low 
obeisance and served the eggs—scrambled in the 
molasses! ” 

SHRIMP—The true shrimp is much smaller than 
the prawn, which is called shrimp in the United 
States, and therefore not so suitable for cooking 
purposes, but is tenderer and of finer flavor and 
hence better as a relish for bi'eakfast or tea. It is 
of a reddish brown color after boiling, the prawn a 
light pink. Shrimps Fried in their Shells — 
Are very delicious; like whitebait, but richer. 
Should any epicurean reader desire to try this dish, 
he should fry the shrimps, as they come from the 
sea, not as they are sold by the fishmonger, these 
being already boiled in salt water. Shrimps Boiled 
—“Anent those tasty hors d’ceuvres , shrimps, it 
may be well to note that their flavor is immensely 
improved by adding 2 or 3 glasses of sherry or other 
white wine to the water in which they are boiled.” 
Shrimp'Croquettes —A rfovelty; are now intro¬ 
duced in the fish course by fashionable caterers. 
Shrimp Rolls —Cut some thin slices of bread and 
butter from a tin loaf, which must be fresh, but not 
too new, or it will not cut well. Cut off the crust, 
and on each slice sprinkle a few shrimps, from 
which the shells have just been taken. Roll up each 
slice, taking care to keep them just one size, build 
them up on a napkin, and garnish with little sprigs 
of parsley. Essence of Shrimps — “At the bay 
shrimps of excellent flavor are caught in abundance, 
and one resident does quite a trade in potting and 
converting them into ‘essence.’ Let those who 
swear by ‘ anchovy ’ as a fish relish or sauce try 
essence of shrimps, and we fancy they will not for¬ 
sake it thereafter.’ 

SHRUB—Name of a mixture of fruit syrup and 
spirit. Rum Shrub—A mixture of 2 qts. rum with 
1 qt. lemon syrup. 

SIMNEL CAKES—They are raised cakes, the 
crust of which is made of fine flour and water, with 
sufficient saffron to give it a deep yellow color, and 
the interior is filled with the materials of a very rich 
plum cake, with plenty of candied lemon peel and 
other good things. They are made up very stiff, 
tied up in a cloth and boiled for several hours, after 
which they are brushed over with eggs and then 
baked. In Shropshire where simnels are an institu- 


SME 

tion, a curious legend attaches to them. An old 
couple named Simon and Nelly, so the story goes, 
used up the remains of the unleavened dough pro¬ 
vided for the fasting season, and mixed with it some 
plum-pudding left from Christmas, and some eggs, 
and so made a cake for the Easter feast when their 
children visited them. It is said that the result was 
so appreciated that “Simon and Nelly Cake” became 
widely known; but the name was soon curtailed to 
“Sim Nell.” As a presentation-cake nothing is 
more suitable than the Simnel, as, indeed, may be 
gathered from the following quaint rhymes in Har- 
land’s “Lancashire Legends.” 

The goode rounde sugarye, 

Kinge of cakes, a Symnelle 

It speaks of deareste familye tyes, 

From friende to friende in Lent it hyes; 

To all good fellowshippe yt cries, 

“I’m a righte trewe Symnelle.” 

Long may symbolique symnelle send 
Friende’s everye lovynge wishe to friende, 

From “Auld Lang Syne,” till tyme shall ende 
The goode olde Symnelle. 

SIPPETS—Little pieces of bread for soup. Bread 
cut in thin slices, then cut in small triangles, and 
dried or lightly toasted in the oven. Sippet is the 
English equivalent of crouton, but the latter word is 
more generally used to designate fried sippets. 

SKATE-A flat and long-tailed fish of the ray 
family, common and cheap in French and English 
markets. Raie a la Maitre d’Hotel — Skate 
boiled and served with hot maitre d’hotel sauce. 
Raie Frite —Skate cut in fillets breaded and fried. 
Raie au Beurre Noir —Slices crimped and boiled 
served with black-butter sauce. Raie a la Noi¬ 
sette —Skate filleted and boiled; served in butter 
sauce with the pounded liver of the skate and tarra¬ 
gon vinegar. Raie aux Fines Herbes —A fricas¬ 
see of skate, or white stew with mushrooms, shal¬ 
lots, parsley, butter and lemon juice. 

SMELT—A small salt-water fish of delicate fla¬ 
vor when fresh, and emitting an odor which has 
been likened to the smell of violets^ and, again, to 
the odor of freshly-cut cucumbers. It loses this 
perfume in a few hours, and when shipped to west¬ 
ern markets as it is in boxes of convenient size, like 
crates of fruit, it becomes a very commonplace fish 
by the time it reaches the consumer. Smelts, to 
Draw —They should never be opened, but drawn by 
the gills and the roe left inside. The heads are left 
on for most of the styles of cooking. The simplest 
treatment is the best when the fish are fresh, and 
they should be merely rolled in flour and fried 
quickly in a kettle of hot fat. Smelts a la Bro¬ 
chette —Floured, run upon a skewer side by side, 
head to tail alternately, dropped into hot lard and 
fried; served on the skewers if silver or plated, 
otherwise slipped off the skewer on to a hot dish; 
garnished with parsley and lemons. Eperlans a 
la Juive —Smelts in Jewish style; egged, breaded, 
fried in oil; served without sauce. Eperlans a 








442 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SNA 

l’Anglaise— Smelts fried and served with anchovy 
sauce. Epeklans ex Ragout— Smelts stewed in 
white stock with herbs and wine. Eperlans au 
Gratin —Seasoned with dried herbs and dipped in 
blitter, covered with bread-crumbs, sprinkled with 
wine and melted butter, and baked brown. Buis- 
SON d’Eperlans— The fish trussed in ring-form, 
with their tails in their mouths, and fried; built up 
in the dish, garnished with fried parsley; butter 
sauce served aside. Smelts are also broiled, plainly, 
and either broiled or fried are served with tomato 
sauce or tartar sauce, and also as a garnish with 
larger fish. Boiled Smelts— Clean, scale, wash, 
and dry the smelts; boil them in equal quantities of 
white wine and water, 2 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil, 
and season with salt, pepper, and Y>, lemon peeled 
and sliced; when done, dish up covered with the 
following sauce: Take 2 tumblerfuls of white wine, 
a lump of butter mixed with a little flour, salt, pep¬ 
per, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 head of garlic blanched 
and pounded, and chopped parsley and chives; warm 
in a saucepan and pour over the fish. Stewed 
Smelts —Place in a china fire-proof dish, pour over 
them a sauce made with fish or veal stock, chopped 
onions, capers, and fine herbs, and a little chablis 
wine; lqt them cook in the oven till tender, and serve 
in the same dish. Always cut off the head for this 
mode of dressing smelts. 

SNAILS—The “poor man’s oyster” is so appre¬ 
ciated by the French that Paris alone consumes some 
forty-nine tons daily, the best kind coming from Gre¬ 
noble or Burgundy. The finest specimens are care¬ 
fully reared in an escargotiere , or snail-park, such 
as the poor Capuchin monks planned in bygone days 
at Colmar and Weinbach, when they had no money 
to buy food, and so cultivated snails. But the ma¬ 
jority are collected by the vine-dressers in the even¬ 
ing from stone heaps, where the snails have assem¬ 
bled to enjoy the dew. The creatures are then 
starved in a dark cellar for two months, and when 
they have closed up the aperture of their shells, are 
ready for cooking. According to the true Burgundy 
method, they are boiled in five or six waters, ex¬ 
tracted from the shell, dressed with fresh butter and 
garlic, then replaced in the shell, covered with pars¬ 
ley and bread-crumbs, and finally simmered in white 
wine. “Snail farms” have been introduced in Switz¬ 
erland, where many gardens round Davos and Land- 
guart, in the Grisons, are used for the sole cultiva¬ 
tion of that Continental delicacy, escargots de Bour¬ 
gogne. A recent authority states that enormous 
quantities of snails are forwarded annually fromMar- 
seilles and Genoa to Paris, and that tens of thousands 
find their way to the markets of Bordeaux, Lyons, 
Vienna, and Munich. Such is the demand, that many 
persons now “cultivate” snails for the markets, and 
find the business a remunerative one. As many as 
twenty or thirty thousands can be bred in a very 
small space. A damp and shady nook is selected 
for the “park,” and the prisoners are kept within 
bounds by the simple contrivance of sawdust and 


SNA 

brambles. This does very well in dry weather, but 
when it rains, the farmer’s wife and children must 
be constantly on the alert to turn back the run¬ 
aways. The Viennese are the greatest snail-eaters- 
in the world. The town of Ulm, on the Danube, is- 
the principal place where snails are fattened for the 
market, and those which are picked from the straw¬ 
berry-beds command the highest prices. Importa¬ 
tion of snails for American consumption is said to 
be steadily increasing every year. Snails are ob¬ 
tainable at certain stores and in the French markets 
of New Orleans all times during the winter. The 
snails have sealed themselves up in their shells for 
their winter hybernation, and are exposed for sale in- 
baskets, as dry as beans. Escargots a la Bour- 
gignonne — Suppose they are to be cooked a la 
Bourgignonne, the shells are carefully washed and 
laid on one side; parsley, garlic, chives orechalotte, 
mushroom and butter, are then chopped together 
into a paste, a little of this is put into the empty 
shell, and the snail after being washed is restored' 
to its dwelling, and the opening is finally filled up 
with paste; they are then baked in a dish of white 
wine for half an hour, with fire above and below 
them. From this description it will be rightly in¬ 
ferred, that to cook snails a la Bouigigjionjie is no’ 
simple matter. Syrup of Snails —A certain cor¬ 
dial made with snail-meat {sirop d’escargots) is re¬ 
commended by medical authorities as an alleviative 
of pulmonary affections; and Snail Soup {bouillon 
d ’ escargots ) is a preparation which possesses very 
strengthening properties. Snails Raw on the: 
Shell —Sceptics who do not believe in the sto¬ 
machic value of the snail will hear with no little- 
disgust that they are sometimes eaten alive by per¬ 
sons who profess a great faith in their curative 
virtues. They first break the shell to extricate the 
inmate, which is then well washed and swallowed 
like an oyster. I have never tasted raw snails, and 
have no special desire to do so, but I have been as¬ 
sured by those who have had the courage to trj' the 
experiment that the gastronomic sensation is a most 
agreeable one. Snails for the Restaurants— 
The mode of preparing the snails for consumption 
is very simple, but requires a deal of care and clean¬ 
liness. The first thing to do is to scrape off the clay 
that covers the aperture, then the shells are placed 
in large vessels containing water, salted and acid¬ 
ulated with vinegar. The object of this is to cause 
the animal to throw off the slime and impurity with 
which it is impregnated. After half an hour’s 
soaking the snails are washed in cold water, placed 
in large wicker-baskets, and plunged into immense 
coppers containing boiling water, where they are 
allowed to simmer for five minutes. Next, with the 
aid of a small two-pronged fork, the snails are re¬ 
moved one by one from their shells, thrown into 
boiling water slightly salted, garnished with vege¬ 
tables and allowed to cook for three-quarters of an 
hour. The cleaning of the empty shells is an im¬ 
portant point. After being well scrubbed and 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


443 


SNA 

washed, they are put to boil for two hours in plenty 
of water containing soda in the proportion of one 
ounce for every hundred shells. Finally they are 
washed again, drained and dried in hot closets. 
The next process is the refilling of the shells. Snail 
Meat —“People who have tasted periwinkles may 
easily form an idea as to the nature of the contents 
of a snail-shell. The substance of one resembles 
the substance of the other, but the taste differs es¬ 
sentially. There is a pleasing and distinctive flavor 
belonging to the inmate of the tiny sea-shell, whilst 
the meat of the escargot is entirely tasteless, and 
would not be so esteemed were it not for the piquant 
stuffing associated with it. For my own part I can 
not avow that I am an enthusiastic admirer of 
escargots, however dressed and served. I certainly 
eat them without disgust, but also without any 
particular satisfaction.” 

SNAPDRAGON—A Christmas game for a fam¬ 
ily; raisins in a warm dish are covered with brandy 
or any spirit that is strong enough to burn; it is set 
on fire in a darkened room, and the sport consists of 
picking the raisins out of the fire with the fingers. 

SNIPES —Well-known and fairly abundant small 
game birds; there are three or four varieties; 
superior to the woodcock. The English and French 
epicures say snipes must not be drawn, but the 
intestine and all eaten; fastidious Americans do not 
agree to this, and the cooks have to make the styles 
of cooking to suit. Broiled Snipes —Are split 
down the back, the insides removed, wiped, flat¬ 



tened, broiled and served on toast the same as quails. 
Becassines a la Brogue— Snipes roasted on a spit 
or long skewer. They are plucked, the heads 
skinned, the gizzards taken out, intestine (trail) left 
in; the head being bent over the long bill is thrust 
through the flesh of the legs, each bird has a slice 
of fat bacon on the breast; they are run upon a spit 
side by side and roasted rare, served on toast with 
their own drippings and maitre d'hotel butter. Be- 
Cassines en Croustades— Shallow cup shapes of 
fried bread, the insides spread with liver forcemeat, 
a roasted snipe in each croustade, baked a few min¬ 
utes jast before serving. Becassines a la Bonne 
Bouche —Snipes filled with a forcemeat of li\ei 
pounded with bacon, covered also with forcemeat 
and baked; served on shapes of fried bread, with 
truffle sauce. Snipe Pudding Is a thoroughly 
English dish almost unknown to French epicures. 


SOL 

It is, nevertheless, a delicious entree. The snipes 
are split in halves and seasoned; a brown jam sauce 
is made with fried onions, mushrooms, flour, wine, 
and the trails of the birds, strained, poured over the 
snipes in a deep dish lined with short paste, a paste 
lid put on, steamed two hours; served hot. Becas¬ 
sines en Terrine a l’Irlandaise— A cold dish. 
Snipes cut in halves baked on layers of bacon with 
butter, with a temporary flour-and-water paste cover 
over, which is removed when the baking is com¬ 
pleted. Boudin de Becassines a l’Epicurienne- 
French name of the snipe pudding above. (See 
Woodcock .) 

SNOW CAKE—The whitest white cake (except 
angel cake) made with a large proportion of corn 
starch, some flour, white of eggs,, white butter, 
sugar and lemon juice. 

SNOW PUDDING—Cold trifle. One of several 
domestic names applied to Russian jeliy. It is clear, 
uncolored gelatine jelly, whipped while setting on 
ice and whipped white of eggs added at the same 
time, making a snow-white spongy jelly when 
finally set. Served with cold yeilow custard as 
sauce. Also called lemon sponge, lemon snow, 
floating island, etc. (See Muscovite .) 

SOAP— Soft Soap —To one pound of potash, add 
three gallons of water. Boil the potash until it 
is all dissolved. Then add three pounds of any kind 
of soap-grease - the cleaner the better—to the lye, 
and set it to boiling. It usually becomes soap after 
boiling from one to five hours. Then add nine gal¬ 
lons of water, and stir well together. When cool it 
will be beautiful white soap, if the grease was 
clean. Hard Soap —Take one pound of potash, 
dissolve in twelve quarts water in a kettle calcu¬ 
lated to make the soap, add to the lye five pounds of 
grease and boil slowly, add water to the kettle as it 
boils down. Keep about the same quantity in the 
kettle until it becomes soap. Then add eight ounces 
common salt, and boil ten minutes, which will sep¬ 
arate the water from the soap. If rosin is wanted, 
melt that in a separate kettle. Add lye with it un¬ 
til it becomes thick, which will take about one quart 
to a pound of rosin. Then add the rosin to the boil¬ 
ing soap before the salt is added. The salt causes 
the soap to separate from the water and rise upon 
the top. When cold it can be taken off or dipped 
into moulds while hot. The above hard soap may 
be perfumed just before it is cool. When lye is too 
strong it will not make soap; therefore, if the kettle, 
while boiling, is not kept about the same quantity, 
the lye will boil down too strong. 

SOCLE—A pedestal, stand, base for an ornamen¬ 
tal piece of cooks’ work. Sur Sucle —On an orna¬ 
mental stand. 

SODA SYRUPS-See Syrups. 

SOLE—No other fish is named so frequently in 
English and French menusfas the sole and, as a 
consequence, it is named with great fiequency 
in menus of this side as well, yet there are no soles 







444 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SOL 


SOR 



in American waters, and all that are genuine are 
the few brought over in ice by the steamers. The 
flounder and the Nova Scotia fluke have to do duty 
for the sole on this side in a general way, and other 
fish are pressed in to furnish the coveted fillets when 
those are not available. A tourist in California 
wrote back complaining that all the fillets of soles 
in San Francisco were cut from halibut. On the 
other hand we have some of the choicest fish that 
swim which are quite unknown in European mar¬ 
kets, and they scarcely find a place in our own bills 
of fare for the odd reason that the majority of the 
cooks were brought up from childhood on sole, and 
have not yet learned pompano, or Spanish mackerel, 
or anything but the flounder substitute. The sole is 
:0. flatfish of excellent quality, best adapted to be cut 



CANDY SULTANE SUR SOCLE. 


in thin fillets (boneless bands or strips), and coiled, 
and cooked in that neat shape. Filet de Sole a la 
Marguery— “As Villemessant, the founder of the 
Figaro , used to say, one can always tell if a man is 
a, gourmet by listening to what he orders in ea'ffl 
particular restaurant, for every restaurant here has 
its special dish, on the preparation of which, to a 
certain degree, its reputation depends. The Restau¬ 
rant du Gymnast, or Cafe Marguery , for instance, 
is celebrated for its filet de sole a la Marguery , the 
fish being prepared with a delicious sauce made of 
mussels, shrimps, and white wine. The recipe for 
the famous sole Marguery appears to be much 
the same as for first-dhss sole Normande. Boil sole 
in chablis, take out fish and remove bone, dividing 
meat into four fillets. Add more wine to that in 


which fish was cooked, and make a ragout of shrimp- 
meat (from the tails), crawfish-meat (idem.), mush¬ 
rooms, truffles, mussels, butter, and a good piece of 
meat-stock. When these ingredients are all thor¬ 
oughly cooked, pour the sauce over the fillets of sole, 
and stand in the oven for some minutes. Garnish 
the dish with fried white-bait, and serve. The 
above recipe was given me by a cordon bleu 
who lives in the house. Sole a la Nor¬ 
mande — To prepare this dish in perfection, 
it is imperatively necessary that the fish should 
be a big one, and that the flesh should be 
entirely separated from the bones. The oval silver 
dish, moreover, on which this delicacy is usually 
served, should be well buttered and cunningly 
powdered with finely minced and scrupulously 
blanched onions. Before being cooked, the sole 
should be seasoned with pepper and salt, and ju¬ 
diciously moistened with white wine; and while the 
cooking is in process the sauce should be a-making 
—a “maigre allemande,” or white sauce, of which 
the stock is the water in which mussels have been 
boiled. The garnishing comprises these same mus¬ 
sels, together with oysters, champignons, fried 
smelts, and fried sippets of bread. Just for five 



SOLE. 

minutes before serving must the sole be popped into 
a moderately heated oven; but the delicate white of 
the allemande sauce must not be suffered to brown. 
In nineteen French restaurants out of twenty there 
is served with the sole an “allemande grasse”— 
such a vulgar sauce, indeed, as is poured over a 
fricassee of fowl or a dish of boiled sheep’s trotters; 
but a real “Normande” should have essence of 
fish and not meat, for its fundamental motive. Fil¬ 
lets of Soles —Make a nice breakfast dish served 
with tomato sauce. Dip each fillet in batter, see 
that they are well covered with this, and fry in boil¬ 
ing fat until they are nicely browned. Serve in the 
center of a dish, and pour the sauce round. Soles 
a la Parisienne —Scrape and clean out your soles, 
cut off the heads and tails, and toss in a sautepan 
with sufficient fresh butter to cover them; sprinkle 
with chopped parsley, chives, salt and pepper; turn 
the fish, and, when cooked, dish up, covered with 
Italian sauce. Fillets of Sole a la Joinville— 
Toss the fillets in a saucepan with butter. When 
done, place round a dish, and fill the center with 
boiled shrimps and minced truffles. Cover with 
German sauce, to which you have added a little 
shrimp butter. 

SOLE (Fr.)—Sole; same as in English. 

SORBET (Fr.)—Frozen punch. 















THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


445 


SOR 

SORBETIERE (Fr.)—A freezing box in which 
sorbets and other ices are congealed. 

SORREL—A sort of sour spinach; a weed with 
acid juices, used as greens in soups, in sauces in the 
form of a puree, and in combination with spinach. 
Not the same as the low-growing, clover-leaved, 
sour weed called sheep-sorrel in the prairie states 
Sorrel grows tall amongst the grass. “The sorrel 
again, whose crimson sepals flaunt themselves 
amongst our meadow herbage, is largely utilized in 
the preparation of French salads. Sorrel, prepared 
for table exactly like spinach, is an excellent accom¬ 
paniment to sweetbread, fried calves’ brains, or any 
similar dish. Sorrel makes an excellent sauce for 
veal, pork, or winter geese. It should, like spinach, 
be put in a sauce-pan without water, except that 
which hangs to its leaves in washing. It should be 
boiled slowly, and then be beaten up with cream, 
butter and the yolks of eggs.” 

SOUFFLE—A puff; something light. There are 
souffles of almost anything eatable. Whatever rises 
to an unusual degree is a souffle; the usual means is 
to mix whipped white of eggs into a pasty prepara¬ 
tion, whether of meats or sweets, just before putting 
It into the oven or steamer. {See Monte Sano Pud- 
Mug.) 

SOUPS — Said About Soups —“ ‘C'est la soupe ,’ 
says one of tiie best of proverbs, ‘qui fait le soldo t.' 
(‘It is the soup that makes the soldier.’) Excellent 
as our troops are in the field, there cannot be a more 
unquestionable fact, than their immense inferiority 
to the French in the business of cookery. The En¬ 
glish soldier lays his piece of ration beef at once on 
the coals, by which means the one and the better 
half is lost, and the other burnt to a cinder. Whereas 
six French troopers fling their messes into one com¬ 
mon pot, and extract a delicious soup ten times more 
nutritious than the simple roti can ever be.”—“Du¬ 
mas, the elder, was excessively fond of onion-and- 
cabbage soup, w.hich he made himself. Soup con¬ 
tains the greatest amount of nourishment that can 
be taken with the least exertion.”—“Scotch broth is 
to Scotland what pot-au-feu is to France, made with 
mutton instead of beef, and involves an important 
•question in household economy.”—A writer of New 
York says: “Nearly every hotel in this city now 
uses the individual soup tureen, and it is a fact to be 
recorded with pleasure. The day has happily gone 
by when plates of cold soup were handed round the 
table.” For Bisque Soups— See Bisque. For 
Clear Soups — See Consommes. For Garbure 
Soups —See Garbure. Various special soups may 
be found described under the several letters, such 
as Turtle, Terrapin, Conger, Chowders, Game 
Sotips, etc., and in national cookery articles. 

SOUPS OF BARLEY — Scotch Broth— See 
Scottish Cookery. Cream of Barley a la Jardi¬ 
niere— Cream-puree of barley tinted with spinach 
green, with vegetables ‘cut size of macaroni with a 
.column cutter; peas, cauliflower, etc. Cream of 


SOU 

Barley a la Joinville —Cream-puree tinted pink 
with crayfish-butter or lobster-coral, with pieces of 
sweetbreads and crayfish-tails. Cream of Barley 
a la Viennoise— White cream of barley with fried 
croutons. Potage a la Creme d’Orge —Cream of 
barley. 

SOUPS OF BEEF— Alamode Beef Soup— See 
Alamode. Beef Soup a L’ANGLAiSE-Smooth brown 
soup of stock thickened with roux, lean beef cut in 
squares, celery, turnips, carrots likewise. Beef 
Broth with Rice —Beef stock highly seasoned, 
with rice cooked separately and added. Ox Palate 
Soup a l’Anglaise —Palates peeled, boiled, and 
pressed, cut in squares, put in clear soup with egg- 
quenelles and Madeira wine; lemon aside. Ox Pal¬ 
ate Soup Thick —Brown like beef-soup; pressed 
palates cut in dice; lemon slices, sherry, parsley. 
Ox Cheek Soup a la Nelson— Stock made of ox- 
cheeks, beef, ham, vegetables; thick, brown, with 
wine, and the meat cut in squares. Ox Tail Soup- 
Is made either clear or thick; tails in round slices 
stewed 2 or 3 hours; beef stock; carrots and turnips 
in slices like the tails; all served in the soup; little 
sherry and lemon. Ox Tail Soup a l’Arnold— 
The preceding thick, brown, with barley. Potage 
aux Queues de Bceuf— Ox-tail soup. 

SOUPS OF CABBAGE — Cabbage Soup a la 
Chambery —Savoy cabbage sliced and half-fried; 
boiled in salt-pork stock; fried forcemeat-balls of 
beef served in it. Puree of Cabbage a la Pie- 
montaise —Cabbage passed through a seive, with 
broth thickened, cream, croutons. Cabbage Soup 
a la Languedocienne —Raviolis made of fried 
cabbage and onion, in potato soup with cheese, yolks, 
etc. Cabbage Soup a la Rentiere —Stock with 
salt pork, cabbage, sausages, vegetables, sippets of 
bread; all served in the soup. Cabbage Soup a la 
Rouennaise —Sliced cabbage half-fried, stewed in 
stock, with sippets of bread. Cabbage Soup with 
Pork- Assorted vegetables, potatoes, cabbage, pork; 
all stewed together in stock. Cabbage Soup with 
Rice —Sliced and fried cabbage and onion in salt- 
pork stock with rice. Green Cabbage and Potato 
Soup —Stewed summer-cabbage and potatoes to¬ 
gether in stock. 

SOUPS OF CHICKEN— Chicken a la Ciiif- 
fonade— Seasoned clear chicken broth, pieces of 
chicken in it previously half-fried; shred lettuce, 
sorrel, chervil added. Chicken a la Kitchener— 
Broth, thickened white roux’, roast chickens, selected 
meat saved, skin and trimmings boiled in broth. 
Chicken a la Kettner — Roast chickens 
cut up, skin and trimmings in broth, thickened 
white roux, chicken meat, rice, and cream. — 
Chicken a la Malmaison —White soup contain¬ 
ing two colors of chicken quenelles, yellow and 
green, with small carrots, cauliflower, yolks, 
cream. Chicken a la Messinoise —White puree 
of chicken and almonds with quenelles of chicken 
and tomato. Chicken a la Princesse— Cream- 







446 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SOU 

colored, thick, with stuffed braised lettuce aside.— 
Chicken a la SoNTAG-Pieces of chicken half-fried 
with ham in butter, along with leeks and rice in 
thickened broth. Chicken a la St. Geokge — 
Cream-colored with barley, chicken meat and fried 
forcemeat balls. Chicken a L’ANGLAISE-Seasoned 
chicken stock thickened, with pieces of chicken. 
Chicken with Okra — Pieces chicken half-fried 
with onions, stock, tomatoes, okra, rice. Chicken 
with Rice —Pieces chicken half fried, in stock with 
rice, plain. Chicken with Tomato —Pieces fried 
with ham and onions, stock, tomato puree. Chicken 
Broth a la Britannia —Printanier vegetables and 
“ royal ” chicken custards in broth. Chicken a la 
Chevaliere —A garbure of cream-soaked and fried 
rolls served aside with broth. Chicken a la Chor- 
seuil —Chicken stocks with “royal ” chicken cus¬ 
tards and asparagus tops. Chicken a la Nicoise- 
Assorted vegetables including cabbage cut in dice, 
rice and chicken meat in broth. Chicken a la Pa¬ 
lestine —With Jerusalem artichokes cut small and 
chicken. Chicken a la Viennoise— Consomme 
with barley, chicken meat, chervil. Chicken with 
Poached Eggs —Broth with asparagus tops and 
poached egg in each plate. Puree de Volaille 
A LA Bearnaise —Puree of chicken and almonds, 
boiling cream, squares of chicken meat, fried rings 
of bread. Puree de Volaille a la Jussienne— 
Puree of chicken and bread panada in thickened 
broth with yolks and fried crusts. Puree de Vo¬ 
laille a la Milesienne —Tinted green; puree of 
chicken with pounded pistachios. Puree de Vo¬ 
laille a la PERiGORD-Puree of chicken, rice and 
almonds, with “royal ” custards containing puree of 
truffles. Puree de V olaille a la REiNE-Pounded 
chicken and rice in stock passed through a sieve, 
cream, butter, croutons. Puree de V olaille a la 
St. Mande — Cream-colored with chicken puree, 
pieces of cooked cucumbers, rice, chervil. Puree 
de Volaille a la Creme —White cream puree 
with white meat of chicken. 

SOUPS, GIBLET—They are either clear or thick. 
The fleshy part of the gizzards of fowls cut from the 
gristle; the giblets are fried first, then stewed, and 
soups varied like beef and ox-tail soups. Potage 
aux Abatis d’Oie —Giblet soup, goose. 

SOUPS FARINACEOUS— Tapioca Soup a la 
Montglas —Thin tomato soup with tapioca, maca¬ 
roni cut short, breast of chicken and red tongue in 
shreds. Tapioca au Consomme —Clear soup with 
tapioca. Tapioca and Tomato —Thin tomato soup 
with tapioca. Tapioca with Rice — Clear soup 
with tapioca and rice. Sago Soups — Same varia¬ 
tions as tapioca. Potage au Sagou —Sago soup. 
Potage a la Jenny Lind —Sago cream soup, yel¬ 
low with thickening of yolks. Potage a la Re- 
camier —Wash lb. best pearl sago thoroughly, 
then stew it quite tender and very thick in water or 
broth (it will require nearly a quart of liquid, which 
should be poured on to it cold and very gradually 
heated), then mix with a pint of boiling cream or 


SOU 

milk, and the yolks of four eggs, and mingle the 
whole carefully with two quarts of stiong veal or 
beef stock, which should be kept always boiling. 
Serve immediately. Cream op Semolina —Fa - 
rina cream soup finished with yolks, cream, butter,, 
and light croutons. Potage Semolina a la Pie- 
montaise —Game broth with farina and quenelles 
of farina, butter and cheese. Potage SemolLna a 
la Venitienne —Farina cream soup light yellow 
with yolks, wine, lemon juice, Parmesan cheese and 
fillets of partridges. Potage Baraquine —White 
tapioca soup with strips of chicken and truffles. 
Potage a la Gouffe —Brown tapioca soup with 
squares of chicken breast, tongue and truffles. Po¬ 
tage a la Creme de Tapioca — Tapioca cream 
soup. 

SOUPS OF F'ISH— Fisii Soup- a la'Braban- 
conne —Strong fish stock with Rhine wine and to¬ 
mato puree added; “royal” custards and collops of 
fish. Fish Soup a la Bateliere —Thickened fish 
stock with sherry, oysters, scallops, lobster meat, 
fish quenelles, fried crusts. Fish Soup a la Du- 
clair —Clarified fish broth with white fillets of fish 
and sippets of dried bread. Fish Soup a la Russe 
—Clarified fish broth, shredded vegetables, fillets of 
fish, fried crusts. Potage a la BAGRATiON-Thick- 
ened broth of vegetables- and fish, yolks, cream, 
lemon juice, fish quenelles, oysters, lobster meat, 
duchesse crusts. Potage a la Ckanoinesse— 
Pink-colored, with crayfish butter, soft roes of fish, 
mushrooms, oysters, crayfish tails. Sturgeon 
Soup a la Suedoise —Strong fish stock with white- 
wine, brown roux, stewed slices of sturgeon and 
mussels. Pike Soup a la Champlain —Fish made 
into forcemeat balls, fried. Fish stock cream-col¬ 
ored, with Catawba, mussel liquor, the forcemeat 
balls, fried bread. Pickerel Soup a la Malmes¬ 
bury —Fillets in small squares cooked in butter and! 
wine. Stock thickened, cream-colored, with mus¬ 
sels, lobster meat and the fillets. Flounder Soup 
—Thickened fish stock with roux, Catawba, scol¬ 
lops, oysters, and fillets of flounder cut to size of 
oysters; croutons. Eel Soup American Style —- 
Pieces of eels half fried in butter, flour, fish stock, 
tomatoes, Catawba, croutons. Eel Soup a la 
Hartford —Cream-colored fricassee of eels with 
scollops and croutons. Eel Soup a la St. Law¬ 
rence —Pieces of eels simmered in butter and wine. 
Fish stock with lobster, fried vegetables and aro¬ 
matics, thickened, creamy. Parsley, lobster meat, 
eels added. Potage a l’Anguille —Eel soup. 
Potage a la Provencale — Bouillabaisse. Po¬ 
tage a la Poissoniere —White soup with pieces of 
salmon and sole, oysters and mussels. Potage aux 
Filets de Soles —Fish broth thickened, wine, 
yolks, and fillets of soles. Potage aux Huitres— 
Oyster soup. Potage de Homard —Lobster soup. 
Potage a la Bisque d’Ecrivisses — Bisque of 
crayfish. 

SOUPS OF GAME — See also Bisques , Hare , 
Game , Partridge. Game Soup a la Corcoise — 







THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


447 


sou 

A soup of partridges, rabbit, salt pork, ham, smoked 
sausages, soup beef, dried mushrooms, lentils, and 
vegetables. The meats sliced and ssrved in the 
strained soup. Bisque of Grouse — Game broth 
with several kinds of meat, etc., thickened with 
bread panada, wine, fillets of grouse in fine shreds 
“The grouse soup at Hamilton Palace used to be 
made on the principle of a young grouse to each of 
the party, in addition to six or seven brace stewed 
down for stock.” Puree of Duck a la Norfolk 
— Mallards roasted, then stewed, meat pounded 
through a sieve; game broth, panada to thicken, 
port wine, croutons. Duck Soup a la IIongroise 
Game soup containing puree of vegetables and 
ham, with barley and the ducks in pieces. Rabbit 
Soup a la Polonaise —Light color. Rabbit stock 
with ham and vegetables thickened with roux and 
yolks; wine, fillets of rabbits; rice aside. Hare 
Soup —See Hare. Puree de Gibier — Puree of 
game. Puree de Lapereaux— Puree of rabbit. 
Puree de Grouses — Puree of grouse. Potage 
aux Grouses —Grouse soup. Potage aux Fai- 
sans —Pheasant soup. Potage aux Perdreaux— 
Partridge soup. Potage a la Lievre— Hare soup. 
Potage a la Venaison —Venison soup. Potage 
a la Chasseur — Game soup with pieces of the 
game, onions, potatoes and mushrooms. Pigeon 
Soup a la Fabert —Pigeons cut up and fried with 
ham and butter; flour, broth, sherry, julienne, vege¬ 
tables and the pigeon pieces served in it. Pigeon 
Soup Belgien Style— The preceding with carrots 
and green peas. 

SOUPS OF ITALIAN PASTES — Macaroni 
Soup-Boiled macaroni cut short in beef broth. Ma¬ 
caroni a la Calabraise— A dish of macaroni and 
cheese, brown tomato sauce, garlic, butter, etc., 
served aside with beef broth. Macaroni a la 
Canino —Dish of macaroni and cheese, puree of 
fowl and gravy in alternate layers served aside with 
broth. Macaroni a la Toscane— Dish of maca¬ 
roni and cheese, tomatoes, sliced mushrooms and 
fried egg plant, and gravy in alternate layers served 
aside with broth. Macaroni a la \ illageoise 
Broth with inch lengths of macaroni and fried leeks. 
Macaroni and Tomato — Inch lengths in tomato 
soup, cheese aside. Vermicelli a la Grecque 
Tnickenad, cream-colored with yolks, cream, lemon 
juice, vermicelli. Vermicelli a la Navarraise 
Brown, thickened with tomato puree and vermicelli. 
Vermicelli a la P lucre— Clear, with shreds of 
green along with the vermicelli. Vermicelli a 
la Windsor— Slightly thickened consomme with 
chicken quenelles and vermicelli. Vermicelle au 
Maigre— Without meat; vermicelli in salted water, 
butter, yolks, cream. Vermicelle a l’Oseille— 
Chicken broth, thickened, yolks, cream, stewed sor¬ 
rel and vermicelli. Vermicelle au T omate— Con¬ 
somme mingled with tomato puree and vermicelli, 
grated Parmesan aside. Vermicelli PLAiN-Short 
cut in beef broth. Lasagnes Soup— Lasagnes paste 
boiled, cu f short in brc'h, consomme, or in any soup, 


SOU 

same as macaroni. Nouilles— In any way same as 
macaroni, vermicelli and fidelini. Fidelini a la 
Royale— Thickened stock with yolks, cream, fide¬ 
lini cut short; grated Parmesan aside. Potage 
Spaghetti a la Sicilienne— A dish of spaghetti 
in brown tomato sauce with garlic, dried mush¬ 
rooms, etc., and hot butter served with beef broth 
aside. Spaghetti a la Turinoise — Consomme 
mingled with tomato puree and short-cut spaghetti 
and quenelles; cheese aside. Spaghetti au Par¬ 
mesan— Spaghetti in clear stock; cheese aside. 

SOUPS OF LAMB AND MUTTON — Lamb 
Soup a la Piemontaise— Pieces of lamb in squares 
half fried, flour, stock, vegetables, rice. Lamb Soup 
a la WiNCHESTER-White soup with cream, starch, 
wine, leeks and meat cut small. Lamb Soup a la 
Reine— Cut up roast lamb, vegetables and rice in 
broth. Lamb Broth with Barley— Barley, meat 
in dice and vegetables. Mutton Soup a la Cowley 
—Brown mutton broth with barley and boiled mut¬ 
ton chop in each plate. Mutton Soup with Bar¬ 
ley— Strong mutton broth with barley and meat in 
squares; green herbs. Mutton Soup a la Rouen- 
naise— Puree of barley with cream, and mutton cut 
in squares. Mutton Soup a la Viennoise- Force¬ 
meat balls of mutton and parsley fried, in barley 
broth. Potage au Mutton— Mutton broth served 
with the mutton in it. Potage a l’Ecossaise — 
Scotch mutton broth. Barley Broth a la Fran- 
CAiSE—Plain mutton broth with barley and sippets 
of bread. Sheep’s Tail Soup a l’Armenienne— 
Tails cut in lengths, parboiled, fried with vegeta¬ 
bles, curry, flour, stock. Pieces in the soup, rice 
aside. Potage aux Queues d’Agneau— Lamb’s 
tail soup. 

SOUPS OF ONIONS— Onion Soup a la Ples- 
sy— Onions half fried, in slightly thickened chicken 
stock, with sippets of bread. Onion Soup with 
Cheese— Onion soup thick poured on bread spread 
with cheese. Onion Soup with Eggs— Onion soup 
yellow with yolks and milk. Soup of Small 
Onions a la Chevreuse— Very small onions and 
peas in chicken broth. Puree of Onions a la 
Bretonne— Brown soup with puree of onions and 
fried crusts. Puree of Onions a la Dieppoise— 
A fish and onion soup, white, with fish quenelles. 
Puree of Onions a la Nantaise — Brown veal 
stock with puree of fried onions; croutons. Puree 
of Onions a la NASSAU-YVhite cream of Bermuda 
onions; butter, sugar, thickened broth, cream, crou¬ 
tons. 

SOUPS OF PEAS AND BEANS— Green Pea 
Soup a la Duchesse— Dry green peas boiled with 
ham and herbs, rubbed through a seive; the liquor 
added, and croutons. Green Pea Soup a la Marly 
—Green peas in chicken broth, with shreds of let¬ 
tuce and chervil. Green Pea a la Printaniere- 
Puree of peas with asparagus tops, string beans cut 
small, green herbs, sugar, butter, etc. Green Pea 
a la St. Cloud— Green peas boiled with salt pork 










448 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SOU 

and herbs in veal stock, skimmed; fried crusts. 
Green Pea a la St. Germain- Green puree of peas 
with “royal” custards composed of puree and eggs 
cooked in small moulds. Green Pea Soup with 
Rice —Puree soup with boiled rice. Pea Soup a la 
Napier— Peas boiled with salt pork, passed through 
a seive, the pork cut in dice and fried, served in the 
soup with cut mint. Pea Soup a la Villageoise- 
Peas and shred vegetables in beef stock, with sip¬ 
pets of bread. Pea and Brunoise SouP-Brunoise 
with puree of peas and sippets of bread. Pea and 
Julienne Soup— Puree of peas with julienne vege¬ 
tables. Split-Pea Soup — Split-peas boiled with 
salt pork, passed through a seive, in stock slightly 
thickened; fried croutons. Puree of Lentils — 
Lentils boiled with salt pork, and same as peas and 
beans. Puree'of String-Beans —Green soup; 
beans cooked in salted water, passed through seive, 
in stock thickened with roux, sugar, butter, boiling 
cream, coloring, croutons. Puree of String- 
Beans a la Savart —Whole peas and short-cut 
string-beans added to the preceding. Bean Soup— 
White navy beans boiled, passed through seive, in 
slightly thickened stock of salt pork, etc.; milk or 
cream; croutons. Puree of Lima Beans— Beans 
and various vegetables boiled and puree together; 
white stock; croutons. Puree of Fresh Beans— 
Green shelled beans boiled with salt pork and on¬ 
ions, beans and onions through a seive, together, in 
thickened broth; croutons. 

SOUPS OF POTATOES— Puree of Potatoes 
a la FAUBONNE-Potatoes cooked with ham, pounded 
through a seive in beef stock with yolks, butter, and 
julienne vegetables. Puree a la Jackson —Puree 
with boiling cream, little sugar, butter, croutons. 
Puree a la Parmentier —Cream of potatoes with 
cliervil and sorrel. “The potage Parmentier is pre¬ 
pared as follows: Peel a dozen potatoes, slice and 
put them in cold water. Slice two onions, a head of 
celery, and the white part of two leeks. Put these 
ingredients in a stewpan with four ounces of butter 
and the sliced potatoes. Fry the whole for ten min¬ 
utes, and then moisten with two quarts of white 
broth. Add three cloves, some salt, a bunch of pars¬ 
ley, and let simmer until the vegetables are done; 
then rub through a fine seive or tammy. Return the 
puree into a stewpan; set it on the fire to boil slowly, 
adding a little broth if the soup is found too thick. 
Let it simmer for twenty minutes, taking off the 
scum as it rises. When ready to serve, add a liaison 
of four yolks of eggs, diluted with half a pint of 
cream, and four ounces of butter, divided into small 
pieces. Throw in the soup a little finely-chopped and 
blanched chervil, and send to table separately some 
small fried croutons .” Puree of Potatoes a la 
Turenne— Potatoes baked and mashed, milk, broth, 
fried salt-pork squares and fried sorrel. “Good 
Woman’s Soup” —Now a first-class recipe for that 
eminently French soup, a la bonne femme : Puree 
Pomme a la Bonne Femme —Peel two quarts of po¬ 
tatoes, mince, and boil in a sufficiency of good 


SOU 

bouillon; pass the puree through a tammy, and pour 
it into a saucepan, where allow it to boil; add some 
blanched lettuces and a handful of minced sorrel, al¬ 
lowing the boiling to continue until the lettuces are 
cooked. Prepare a garnish of vegetables—aspar¬ 
agus-tops, cauliflowers, green peas, a handful of 
Brussels sprouts cooked in salt and water, strained 
after cooking, and mixed with butter. At moment 
of serving add the vegetables to the puree, and bind 
with five yolks mixed with a pint of sweet cream 
and a pinch of nutmeg. Do not allow the soup to 
boil after adding the cream.” Potato Soup wiTH 
Leeks— Fried leeks in shreds stewed with cut pota¬ 
toes in‘stock; sippets of bread. 

SOUPS OF RICE — Riz a la Flamande — 
Thickened stock with rice and assorted vegetables, 
including Brussels sprouts or cabbage cut small. 
Riz a l’Indienne — Curry soup with rice and 
pieces of chicken. Riz a la Maintenon— Cream - 
colored with yolks and cream, and sliced breast of 
chicken. Riz a la Paysanne — Vegetable soup 
with rice. Riz a la Sultane —Stock of mutton, 
chicken, ham and vegetables strained; colored with 
saffron, yolks, cream; chicken meat and sultana 
raisins. Riz a la Turque —Little timbales of but 
tered rice, yellow with saffron, served aside with 
beef broth. Riz aux Pointes —Clear soup with 
rice and asparagus tops. Riz au Kari —Yellow, 
slightly thickened, curry and roux, cooked rice 
added. Riz au Julienne —Julienne soup with 
rice. Riz au Tapioca —Cooked rice added to tapi¬ 
oca clear soup. Riz au Tomate —Consomme, to¬ 
mato puree and rice mixed. Risotto a la Pie- 
montaise — See Italian. Cream of Rice a la 
Buffon —Puree of rice with cream, chicken broth, 
etc., and small quenelles and asparagus tops. 
Cream of Rice a la Cavour —Cream puree with 
short macaroni and “royal” custards made with 
almond milk. Cream of Rice a la Medicis — 
Very small fried rice croquettes and grated Parme¬ 
san in cream of rice. Cream of Rice a la Prin- 
cesse —Cream puree with asparagus tops. Cream 
o f Rice a la St. Sever — With lozenge shapes 
of bread fried in butter. Rice Pilaf —See Oriental 
Cookery. 

SOUPS OF SHELL-FTSII— Soft Clam Soup 
—Clams opened and hard part removed, boiled two 
minutes in broth, add boiling milk and white sauce 
or thickening, butter, mace, salt, pepper, crackers. 
Clam Soup, American Style — Same as oyster 
soups; in milk with butter and white sauce or thick¬ 
ening, parsley, crackers. Clam Chowder —See 
Cliozvder. Oyster Soup, White — Milk, white 
sauce or thickening, oyster liquor, oysters soft 
cooked, butter, crackers, seasonings. “Put4doz. 
oysters with their liquor into a stewpan, and when 
upon the point of boiling drain them upon a seive, 
catching the liquor in a basin. Put the oysters into 
a soup tureen, taking off the beards to throw into 
the liquor, and then melt Y x lb. butter in another 
stewpan on the fire, to which add 4 oz. flour; stir 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


449 


SOU 

slowly, keeping- it quite white, over a slow fire; let 
it become cool, then add the liquor with the beards, 
2 qts. stock and i qt. milk. Season with salt, ca* 
yenne, 5 peppercorns, half a blade of mace, 1 des¬ 
sertspoonful of anchovy and 1 tablespoonful of Har¬ 
vey sauce, stirring till boiling. Boil quickly at the 
last, then skim well, add 1 gill of cream, strain 
through a sieve over the oysters, and serve.” Ovs- 
sters aux T ines IIerbes —Fish broth and oyster 
liquor thickened, half-fried shallots, mushrooms, 
parsley and oysters in it, and white wine; no milk. 
Oyster Soup with Okra —P'ried onions and ham, 
in butter, tomatoes, oyster liquor, green pepper, 
okra in thin slices, oysters added last; an oyster 
gumbo. Crayfish Soups -See Bisques. Mussel 
Soup —See Mussels. Lobster Soup a l’Indienne 
—A lobster curry soup; salt pork, ham and vege 
tables fried; curry, flour and stock added; lobsters 
boiled and pounded (shells and all) with yolks and 
cream, and strained through a seive; lobster meat 
and rice in the soup. Lobster Soup a la Mari- 
niere —Pink-colored; fish broth thickened, contain¬ 
ing lobster butter, lobster meat, clams, small onions, 
sherry. Puree of Lobster with Rice — See 
Bisques. 

SOUPS OF TURNIPS— Turnip Puree Soup— 
Use young Avhite garden turnips. Peel, boil two 
minutes, then pour off the water; slice the turnips 
and allow 1 lb. of the vegetables to a pint of sepa¬ 
rated milk; 12 whole white peppercorns, one blade 
of mace. Stew till the turnips are tender, then puree 
through a steel wire sieve; add also a couple of bot¬ 
tled or canned button mushrooms, % oz. of powdered 
sugar, and salt to taste. Put the puree into a large 
stewpan, add good white stock to make it of a proper 
consistence; stir over the fire till it is quite thick 
and hot, beat in oz. of butter to the pint of soup, 
or add cream to give it a soft, mellow taste; pour 
into a hot tureen, and serve. Puree of Turnips 
and Rice —The two pounded and strained together 
in veal stock and milk, butter, croutons. Puree of 
Turnips ala Savoisienne — Turnips fried first, 
flour, stock, tomatoes; through a sieve; served with 
grisini bread. Puree of Turnips with Sago, 
rice or tapioca can be varied at will. Puree of 
Turnips a la F reneuse —A cream of turnips with 
balls of turnips scooped out, and sippets of bread. 
Cream of Turnips a la Conde—Is a puree of 
beans with turnip puree made into “royal ” custards 
cut in squares in it instead of croutons. 

SOUPS OF VEAL— Veal Soup a l’Indienne- 
A veal curry or mulligatawny, pieces of meat in the 
soup, and rice. Veal Soup a la Poissy — White, 
creamy thickened veal stock with vermicelli. Veal 
Soup with Barley —Plain veal broth with barley. 
Veal and Rice a l’Anglaise — Veal broth with 
gelatinous parts of veal sliced in it and rice. Veal 
and Tomato with Rice^ —Fried pieces of veal 
and onion in butter, stock, tomatoes, etc., and rice. 
Veal Soup a la Dauphine — “Royal” custards 
cut round in veal broth with asparagus tops and 


SOU 

tarragon leaves sliced. Veal Broth with Celery 
—Cooked white celery in inch lengths in the broth, 
Veal Soup with Sorrel —Cream broth with pu¬ 
ree of sorrel and sippets of bread. 

SOUPS OF CALF’S HEAD — Calf’s Head 
Soup a la Duchesse —White soup with calfs’ head 
cut in squares, pieces of macaroni and small que¬ 
nelles. Calf’s Head Soup a la Brighton —Veal 
broth with vegetables and aromatics, thickened,, 
sherry, head cut in squares, small balls of veal sau¬ 
sage meat, lemon slices. Mock Turtle a la 
Francaise —The pressed calf’s head cut in dice, 
espagnole, tomato sauce and beef broth mingled,, 
sherry, chopped yolks, parsley, lemon. Mock Tur¬ 
tle a l’Anglaise —It is made either clear or thick, 
the stock as for espagnole without tomatoes, calf’s- 
head cut in squares, sherry, port, egg quenelles, 
lemon. Calf's Foot Soup a l’Anglaise — Feet 
boned, pressed, cut in dice when cold. Soup made 
of the stock of the feet and other meats and vege¬ 
tables the same as with calf’s head; meat squares in 
the soup, chopped yolks and lemon slices. Calf’s 
Foot a la Dumas —Aromatic calf’s foot and veal 
stock with marsala, thickened, feet cut in dice, le¬ 
mon slices aside. Calf’s Tail Soup —Light color, 
thickened, Rhine wine, pieces of tail and parsley.. 
Potage Tete DE Veau — Calf’s head soup. Po- 
tage a la Fausse ToitTUE-Mock turtle soup. Po¬ 
tage Queues de Veau— Calf’s tail soup. Potage 
AUX PlEDS DE V EAU —Calf’s foot SOUp. POTAGE A 
la Comtesse —Sweetbreads. 

SOUPS OF MIXED VEGETABLES -Vege¬ 
table Soup a la Bourgeoise —Stock with salt pork 
and cabbage and various vegetables, all sliced and 
served in the soup with sliced bread. Vegetable 
Soup a la IIollandaise —Balls scooped out of sev¬ 
eral colors of vegetables and peas, beans, cauli¬ 
flower; cream soup with the cooked vegetables added. 
Vegetable a la Polonaise —Polish soup of stock, 
bacon, fowl, smoked sausage,cabbage,onions; thick¬ 
ened; all sliced in it to serve. Polish Soups — “ In 
the first place there is Bigos, dear to the compatriots 
of Dombrowski as that general’s name itself, a 
kind of stew prepared with pork sausages, sauer¬ 
kraut, ham and bacon, wrapped tightly in a napkin 
and boiled for 2 hours. Their favorite soup is called 
Barszoz , which I have often eaten at Boncrelle’s 
establishment in the Avenue de Cracovie, at War¬ 
saw, and which I can conscientiously recommend. 
It is made out of beef-bouillon, in which slices of 
red beetroot are boiled. Kapusniak, another national 
soup, is very nasty, but very much liked; it is made 
of sauerkraut and bacon boiled in beef-soup. Ucka 
is a Russian soup, but, nevertheless, much appreci¬ 
ated in the oppressed country. A fish-soup it is, pre¬ 
pared from sterlets.” Vegetable a la Fermiere- 
Various vegetables sliced, fried, then boiled in stock; 
sorrel, chervil, bread. Consomme Julienne -Veg¬ 
etables shredded very fine, half-fried in butter and 
sugar; clear consomme added. Soupe Julienne a 
la Montpensier— Julienne with “royal” custards., 









450 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SOU 

Soupe Julienne a la Russe —Made with shreds of 
beets, kohlrabi, knot-celery, mushrooms, red tongue, 
ham. Julienne auxCEufsPoche— A soft poached 
egg in each plate of soup. Potage Benoy —Differs 
from julienne in so far that in the former the vege¬ 
tables are cut into dice and fried before putting into 
the soup. Consomme Brunoise-A11 sorts of vege¬ 
tables cut into small squares, half-fried with sugar 
and butter, in clear stock with green peas and shreds 
of green herbs. Brunoise with Italian Pastes — 
Rice, croutons , tapioca, etc., can be varied at will. 
Potage Dieppoise—A vegetable soup like julienne 
with potatoes added, and croutons. Potage Fau- 
bonne —Puree of peas with small white onions, sor¬ 
rel, and chervil added. Potage Nivernaise— A 
vegetable-soup; the vegetables scooped like large 
peas, with small Brussels sprouts and chicken 
quenelles. Potage SolferiN'o— A vegetable broth 
with green peas, new potatoes, string beans, shred 
green herbs and pieces grisini bread. Barscii a la 
Polonaise — See Barzez. Red-beet liquor clear, 
containing small-cut pieces of beef, duck, sausage, 
beets. Flemish Soup —Like Brunoise, with all 
sorts of vegetables cut in shapes, and Brussels 
sprouts and sippets additional. Potage Livonien- 
Puree of all sorts of vegetables and rice, with cream 
and croutons. Potage a la Croissy —Puree of 
white beans and vegetables together; whole green 
peas added. Consomme Printaniere —Clear soup 
with small-cut spring vegetables, string beans, peas, 
asparagus points. Printaniere Royale — The 
same with “royal” custards added. Printaniere 
A la Parisienne— With custards of chicken-puree 
and eggs. Printaniere a la Victoria — With 
chicken-quenelles reddened with lobster-coral.— 
Printaniere au Vert-Pre —Meadow-green prin- 
tanifere with puree of spinach and green coloring. 
Printaniere with Quenelles — With yellow 
quenelles of chicken. Potage Colbert with 
EGGS-Printanifere with a poached egg in each plate. 
Puree of Sorrel with Cream —Veal-broth thick¬ 
ened with roux , yolks, cream, puree of stewed sorrel 
mingled with it. Puree of Tomatoes —Fried 
vegetables, onions, ham; flour, tomatoes, stock, 
strained; croutons. Leek Soup a la Picarde — 
Same as potato with leeks. Puree of Pumpkin — 
Stewed pumpkin strained and diluted with milk, 
butter, seasonings; sippets of bread. Puree of 
Spinach —Spinach simmered tender in butter; flour, 
broth, boiled milk, strained, made green. Cream 
of Cauliflower —Cooked in white broth, rubbed 
through a seive with cream, butter, flowerets of 
cauliflower, croutons. Puree a laCrecy —Stewed 
carrots with vegetables passed through a seive, 
stock slightly thickened; croutons. Crecy au Sa- 
gou —Mince up 2 onions, fry in butter, add 1 qt. of 
finely minced carrots, season with salt and a pinch 
of sugar. When they have lost their humidity, wet 
slightly with bouillon, cook over a moderate fire, 
wetting from time to time with bouillon. Pass first 
through seive and then through tammy. Dilute the 


SOU 

puree in 2 qts. bouillon, allow it to boil, withdraw 
pan to side of fire, skim, and season at the last mo¬ 
ment. Add lb. boiled sago, and bind with 4 yolks 
of eggs and 2 oz. butter. This done, serve. Puree 
of Carrots a l’Allemande-PuIp of carrots boiled 
in salt-pork stock, flour, butter, yolks, cream, and 
nouilles. Puree of Asparagus —Green, with green 
tops passed through a seive, and coloring; green 
tops and fried croutons in the soup. Cream of As¬ 
paragus — White; whole asparagus in salt-pork 
stock passed through seive; stock thickened; cream, 
green asparagus tops, and croutons. Green Corn 
Soup —Grated raw corn in stock of chicken and salt 
pork with a moderate seasoning of onion; milk or 
cream, and seasoning of chopped parsley. Canned- 
Corn Soup —One can sweet corn, 1 quart boiling 
water, 1 qt. milk, 3 tablespoonfuls butter rolled in 1 
tablespoonful flour, 2 eggs, pepper and salt, 1 table¬ 
spoonful tomato catsup. Drain the corn and chop it 
in a chopping-tray, put on in the boiling water and 
cook steadily 1 hour; rub through a colander, leav¬ 
ing the husks behind, and return with the water in 
which it has boiled to the fire; season; boil gently 3 
minutes, and stir in the butter and flour; have ready 
the boiling milk, pour it upon the beaten eggs, and 
these into the soup; simmer 1 minute, stirring all 
the while; take up, add the catsup, and pour out. 
Tomato Cream Soup —An American specialty. To 
make it successfully, that is, without having the 
milk curdle in it, two separate soups should be 
made: a puree of tomatoes without spices, and a 
white cream of chicken or veal soup in which a piece 
of salt pork has been boiled; the latter should be 
thickened and finished, and the tomato soup then 
mingled with it and not afterwards boiled. Puree 
of Chestnuts a la Mancelle —Blanched and 
boiled Italian chestnuts passed through a seive in 
game broth; little sugar, butter, nutmeg, yolks, 
croutons. Cucumber Soup— See Cucumbers. Po¬ 
tage Creme de Chicoree a la Colbert —White 
stock and cream, thickened with yolks, witn stewed 
chicory and poached eggs. Potage a la Russe— 
Brown soup with vegetables and round balls of 
sausage-meat. Potage a la D’Artois— Puree of 
green peas. Potage a la Palestine— Puree of 
Jerusalem artichokes. Potage a la Stamboul— 
Puree of rice and tomatoes. Potage a la Chan¬ 
tilly —Puree of lentils with cream. Potage a la 
Soubise —Puree of onions. Puree de Concom- 
bres —Puree of cucumbers. Pukee de Choux- 
Fleurs —Puree of cauliflower. Cold Soup —Put a 
chicken in a stewpan with a bunch of parsley and 
fennel and a wineglassful of cucumber juice; 3 pts. 
of broth. Bring the liquid to the boiling point; stew 
it, and pop the stewpan on the corner of the stove. 
When your chicken is cooked, drain it, pass the 
broth through a napkin and carefully clarify it. 
Simultaneously you have had cooked a garnishing 
of celery cut in sticks an inch long. Pour this gar¬ 
nishing into your soup-tureen with the clarified con¬ 
somme, the scollopped breasts of the chicken, and 1 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


451 


sou 

tablespoonful of chopped parsley and green fennel. 
Thoroughly i-efrigerate before serving; and your 
potcige will be none the worse for a few little bits of 
ice floating in the liquid. ( See Ices , Iced Soups.) 

SOUP STICKS—Long and slender crusty rolls are 
baked in fluted pans, to be eaten with soup. A sub¬ 
stitute for grisini bread in hotels where that harder 
kind of finger-bread would not be generally accept¬ 
able: The moulds to bake in should not be wider 
than one’s middle finger; a sheet of Russia iron can 
be corrugated at the shops to make a dozen of these 
little troughs in one piece. 

SOUSE—Pickled meat, such as pigs’ feet, in 
spiced vinegar, which are called in some sections 
soused pigs’-feet. Soused Salmon —See Salmon , 
pickled. 

SOUTHDOWN MUTTON — A fine breed of 
sheep improved especially for mutton and not for 
wool in the South Down’s grazing region of En¬ 
gland furnishes this name for good mutton in the 
American bill of fare. 

SOY—A bottled sauce imported from China and 
India; composition uncertain. 

SPAGHETTI—Italian paste like macaroni, but 
not tubular; it is a solid cord. Cooked in all ways 
the same as macaroni. 

SPANISH COOKERY—The same names of 
dishes are found in the Spanish bill of fare as in the 
Mexican, as might be expected, and it is likely to be 
the case that the high-class cuisine in the City of 
Mexico and of the same grade in the cities of Spain 
are essentially one thing; the old country, however, 
is subjected to the rasping friction and shaking-up 
of the cosmopolitan crowd of railway travelers and 
tourists and can scarcely be so conservative of 
Spanish habits as the Mexican-Spanish cities may 
be. This is an observant traveler’s sketch of “A 
Railroad Eating-House in Spain— On the rail¬ 
road at Miranda I for the first time tested Spanish 
catering at the buffet. It was a wonderful meal— 
real Spanish cookery, everything done in oil; but it 
was by no means bad. The wonderful thing about 
it was the way in which the passengers got through 
a meal of ten courses in fifteen minutes by the clock. 
It was one plate down and another up. The waiters 
actually gallopped round the table piling plates full 
of soup, fish, entree, joint, fowl, salad, pastry, cheese, 
and fruit before the astonished passengers. Heav¬ 
ens, how we ate! How we finished one plate and 
pushed it aside and seized the full one by our side! 
No changing knives and forks. It was just one wild 
waltz from dish to dish.” Away from the railroads, 
however, the family resemblance between Mexico 
and Spain is plainly discernible; in Mexico the cook- 
stone is a charcoal furnace, the brasero, a furnace 
made of baked earth, and in the old country a trav¬ 
eler remarks: ‘‘It is to be noted that in the Spanish 
kitchen charcoal takes the place of coal or gas as 
fuel, while earthenware vessels are generally em¬ 
ployed instead of metal ones. Arroz con Pollo— 


SPA 

Rice and chicken. This is one of the national dishes 
of Spain, and may be seen heading as well the Mex¬ 
ican bill of fare on a former page. It will be found 
to resemble certain other dishes of meat with rice 
described in Italian and Oriental cookeries. Put 3 
tablespoonfuls of oil into a pan, and when hot place 
therein some small pieces of fowl, which are to be 
cooked slowly in the oil for half an hour. By this 
time the pieces should be brown. Meanwhile, in an¬ 
other pan, fry also in oil, onions, garlic, tomatoes, 
and red pepper, adding this mixture to the fowl, to¬ 
gether with 6 or S oz. of well-washed rice and 1 pt. 
of stock. Cover and simmer slowly until the rice has 
absorbed the liquid and becomes soft. Two other 
dishes designated as national dishes differ but little 
from each other; one is Puchero— A soup made of 
any or several kinds of meat at once and an assort¬ 
ment of Spanish vegetables; all this strained out and 
served in one dish while the soup with bread is 
served in another. Its foundation is as follows: Fry 
onion and garlic in olive-oil, add any kind of meat 
(beef, mutton, or fowl, either alone or mixed to¬ 
gether), cut into small pieces, and seasoned with 
salt, plenty of pepper, and a few chillies. Fill up the 
puchera (an earthen pan) with water or stock, a little 
vinegar; add garbanzos (a kind of chick pea), all veg¬ 
etables in season and at hand, withholding potatoes 
until half or three-quarters of an hour before the 
finish of the dish. The ingredients must simmer 
slowly. The Olla Podrida —Is the national stew 
rather than a soup. It is composed exclusively of 
Spanish produce, such as garbanzos (chick peas), 
chirizos (Spanish red sausages), long pepper, garlic, 
tomatoes, and all sorts of roughly-cut vegetables, 
such as cabbages, endives, carrots, turnips, onions, 
gourds, and French beans. All these ingredients 
are put together in a large earthen pot of a peculiar 
form, with a piece of smoked bacon, a fowl, and a 
piece cf beef. When done, the vegetables are laid 
at the bottom of a very deep dish, in the center of 
which is placed the beef, flanked by the bacon and 
the fowl. The sausages are dished around, and some 
of the liquor from the pot poured over the whole. In 
all restaurants, inns, and hotels in Spain there is in¬ 
variably an olla podrida ready to be served at the 
traveler’s request. “ ’Tis reported of the Marquis 
Ciappoint Vitello, an Italian, who was one of the 
best soldiers that nation ever bred, that he had so 
great a liking to this sort of olla when he was in 
Spain, that he never cared to dine at home, but walk¬ 
ing about the streets, if he smelt in any citizen’s 
house this sort of victuals, he went in there, and sat 
down at his table to dine with him. Before he went 
out, he ordered his steward to pay the charge of the 
whole dinner.” It is imparted as a secret, however, 
that this attractiveness was due to the Spanish saus¬ 
ages which makes both of the foregoing prepara¬ 
tions distinctive, and not like the ordinary vegetable 
stews of other nations. Spanish Sausages, or 
Ciiorissas, or Chirizos— Take equal weights of 
fat and lean pork taken from the prime parts of the 





452 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SPA 

animal; mince this finely, and season strongly with 
garlic and cayenne; pour over it as much dry sherry 
as will cover it, and let it stand in a cold place for 3 
or 4 days till it has absorbed the liquor; put the meat 
into large skins, and moisten with the liquor that 
remains; tie the sausages in links, and hang them in 
a cool, dry place; they will keep for 6 or S months; 
when wanted, drop the sausages into hot water and 
let them simmer gently until done enough. One 
habit in cookery the Spaniads have which is like 
the Italians’ and is a reminder of the fry-shops of 
Rome. All kinds of cold vegetables are used in 
Spain, dipped in batter and thrown into smoking 
hot oil. This method of cooking vegetables is ex¬ 
emplified in the truly Spanish dish of fried sweet 
potatoes. Spanish Beefsteak — An excellent 
breakfast dish is a beefsteak cooked Spanish fashion. 
Take a slice of round steak an inch thick, lay it on 
a pie-dish, add a little water to baste it with, and 
bake it for 30 minutes; take it out and cover it with 
a layer of sliced onions, and bake till the onions are 
tender; cover it with a layer of sliced tomatoes, and 
bake 20 minutes; sprinkle on 2 tablespoonfuls of 
grated cheese, and place in the oven long enough to 
melt the cheese. During the baking it should be 
basted every 10 minutes. This recipe is fiom the 
note-book of a celebrated caterer. Chanfaina —Is 
one of the oldest and most celebrated national dishes 
in Spain, and the namePis mentioned in many a 
legend. The recipe is as follows: Boil a pork or 
mutton liver in salt water, and cut it when done in 
little square pieces. Take a fine-chopped onion, 
some green mint, parsley, Spanish pepper, cloves, 
whole pepper, salt, cinnamon, caraway, saffron and 
the liver, and stew the whole with good olive oil, 
once in a while put some of the bouillon, Avherein 
the liver was boiled, into the stew, and when done 
put some cracker dust or grated crumbs of stale 
wheatbread over it, and serve it either hot or cold. 
(See Gondingo.) Gaspacho— Spanish salad. “It 
has been said, Spain knows of the tomato when cold. 
Yes, and for a model gaspacho you had better go to 
Malaga or Seville, for the sun is the prime ingre¬ 
dient. Take several fine tomatoes and as many fine 
ripe red pimientos dulces, and when your tomatoes 
are well drained cut them all into large (not too thin) 
slices, add a cucumber in transparently shaved 
pieces, some of the creamy sweet onion (uncooked), 
and as much garlic as you can bear. To this add 
salt, pepper (real pepper from the Isles), and oil, 
with a fair squeeze of lemon (gathered fresh), and 
you shall then taste of a dish such as the Spanish 
saying assures you will make you * indifferent as to 
whether you live or die.’ ” Spanish Sweets— In 
Spain fruit takes the place of pastry. Sweet dishes 
or dulces are little used in the Peninsula. The 
Spaniard’s favorite sweet is turon , an almond cake, 
very rich, used chiefly at Christmas time, and the 
following: Vilharacos —Boil 10 lbs. of pumpkin, 
when thoroughly done pass through a Chinese 
strainer; add lbs. flour, 10 well beaten eggs, 


, SPI 

teaspoonful cinnamon, 2 teaspoonfuls orange water,, 
and % lb. granulated sugar; beat the ingredients 
well together with an egg whit, and fry in very hot 
sweet oil, the same as for rice fritters. When 
cooked, put in an oval dish and intersperse with 
payers of granulated sugai and drown with good 
sherry wine; serve cold for dessert. This is a na¬ 
tional dish for Christmas and New Years. Spanish 
Fritters —Cut some slices of bread into any shape 
you like, pour a very little brandy on each, mix 2 
eggs with 2 spoonfuls of flour and a little milk* 
cover the pieces of bread with this batter, let them 
rest half an hour, then fry in very hot lard or butter; 
serve hot, with a little jam of anv kind preferred on 
each fritter. Spanish fritters (Spanish fashion) are 
made without the addition of brandy. They are 
made by cutting the crumb of a French roll into 
lengths about the thickness of a finger, soaked for 
2 hours in cream or milk, to which has been added 
ground cinnamon, grated nutmeg, sugar to taste, 
and an egg beaten up in it. They are next drained, 
then fried in hot butter to a nice brown color, and 
served hot. 

SPARROW—“The tiny little wren lives 3 years, 
the thrush 10, the lark 13, the common hen of com¬ 
merce 10, the boarding house brand 75, the crow 100, 
and the English sparrow is immortal.’’ Sparrow 
Pie — An enthusiastic epicure says, speaking of 
sparrows: “ No one who has not tasted it can know 

what a delicious pie the little bird makes—tender, 
sweet, and resembling the best of reed - birds.” 
Sparrow and Reed-Bird — The manner of pre¬ 
paring the sparrow does not differ from that in the 
case of the reed-bird, except that the sparrow meat 
is somewhat tougher, and requires a little more care¬ 
ful cooking. The sparrow, when nicely browned, 
flavored and mounted on toast, is so deceptive that 
old sports are frequently unable to discover the 
fraud. Many of the sparrows are sent through the 
adjacent country and sold in the restaurants and 
hotels for fancy prices and at enormous profit. Ex¬ 
perienced cooks say they are frequently at a loss to 
decide whether or not the birds offered for sale by a 
suspicious dealer are really reed-birds or sparrows. 
They profess, however, that the flesh of a reed-bird 
is a little whiter, the veins a little bluer and smaller 
and the legs better shaped. 

SPARROW-GRASS — Common vernacular for 
asparagus. 

SPECK — Salt pork or unsmoked bacon. This- 
word is found in old English bills of fare of 200 
years ago. It is in common use in some parts of the 
United States as in “cabbage with speck.” 

SPICED SALT—(/)-The famous cook, Durand, 
advocates the use of spiced salt, which he avers, has 
often stood him in good stead. The following are 
the exact quantities he gives in his recipe: Take 2 a 
oz. salt, 4 heads of cloves, 2 nutmegs, 6 laurel leaves, 
a stick of cinnamon, 4 whole black peppers, a 
drachm of basil leaves, and the same quantity of 






THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SPI 

coriander seeds; pound in a mortar and pass through 
a tammy; pound any large pieces that remain over, 
pass through the tammy, and keep in tightly corked 
bottles. (2)-2 lbs. salt, 1 oz. of powdered sage, 1 oz. 
long pepper, % oz. of cloves, y z oz. mace, oz. 
coriander seeds; moisten the sait with two table¬ 
spoonfuls of bay rum, dry, and mix with the ground 
spices; bottle and use. Many variations can be made 
by using nutmegs, white peppers, cayenne, &c. 

SPINACH—Said about Spinach: “Spinach, to 
be truly enjoyed, should never be eaten without 
liberal saturation of gravy; and French epicures say, 
‘ Do not forget the nutmeg,’ This vegetable goes 
excellently with swine’s flesh in every shape, but 
especially ham, the stimulating flavor of which it 
greatly modifies.’’ “A gentleman who was fond of 
having his vegetables good, managed his spinach 
after this fashion: Say it was boiled on Monday, 
and sent to the table, properly seasoned, as the cook 
supposed; it went away untouched. The next day 
it was warmed, with an additional piece of butter, 
and again not eaten; and so on for four or five days, 
each time absorbing more butter; until our gour¬ 
mand, finding it sufficiently good, made an end of 
it.” “Spinach is often cooked in France with white 
wine. There is a popular saying, “ Cela mets du 
vin dans vos epinards ” (“That puts wine in your 
spinach”), referring to a slice of good luck. But I 
am informed that the dish thus prepared is not very 
tasty, and that epinards an Jus or an beurre are in 
everyway preferable.” Fontenelle was agreat epi¬ 
cure and was inordinately fond of spinach. He had 
a friend who frequently dined with him who was 
equally partial to the succulent vegetable but they 
differed in their preferences of the mode of dress¬ 
ing, for while Fontenelle preferred it a la creme , 
the friend chose it dressed an beurre. In conse¬ 
quence it was customary when they dined together 
to have the spinach divided and dressed differently. 
One day Fentenelle was awaiting his friends arrival 
and the spinach was ready for the final dressing 
when instead of the one expected there came a mes¬ 
senger saying the friend had suddenly dropped dead. 
Fontenelle thought a moment, then turning towards 
the kitchen he said: “ Tell the cook to dress all the 
spinach a la creme and without further comment 
he went to dinner. Spinach Dressed in German 
Fashion —Wash the spinach clean and boil for a 
quarter of an hour with some salt. Then squeeze 
quite dry, and cut very finely. Mix six ounces but¬ 
ter, one ounce bread-crumbs, and some very finely 
minced onion, and a quarter of a pint of cream or 
good milk. Boil all up together with the spinach, 
and serve. Canned Spinach —The latest novelty 
in American canned provisions is canned spinach, 
which is already cooked, and only requires warm¬ 
ing by immersion of the tins in hot water to be ready 
for table. One three-pound can contains about one 
peck of spinach, measured in the green state. Epi¬ 
nards a l’Anglaise —Boiled, drained and buttered 
as in paragraph above. Epinards a la Creme — 


452 


SQU 

Spinach cooked and mashed, cream and sugar 
added, served with croutons of bread fried in butter. 
Epinards auJcs —Spinach with gravy. Epinards- 
a l’Allemande — Spinach in German fashion. 
Spinach a la Maitre d’Hotel— Boiled, drained, 
seasoned with butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg and 
sprinkling of vinegar. Spinach, American Style 
—With a thin slice of hot roast ham on top. Spin¬ 
ach Soups —Spinach pounded and rubbed through a 
seive is made into several varieties of soups, as 
puree of spinach, cream of spinach, spinach with 
sorrel, and with various additions of other vegeta¬ 
bles, rice or pastes. Sweet Spinach — Cook the 
spinach in fresh butter; when done, stir in some 
pounded macaroons, sugar, grated lemon-peel, and 
a pinch of salt. Hand sponge fingers with this dish. 

SPICE CAKES—Various, as ginger cake with 
mixed spices, fruit cake well spiced and small cut¬ 
out cakes of the ginger-snap kind. 

SPONGE CAKE—Made of 8eggs, y cup water, 

1 lb. sugar, y lb. flour. Sugar, water and yolks 
beaten together, flour stirred in, whipped whites 
last. Sponge Drops —Teaspoonfuls of the above 
mixture dropped on paper, dredged with sugar and 
baked. Sponge Pudding — Sponge-cake mixture 
steamed in a mould. 

SPRAT—A small sea-fish, in appearance some¬ 
thing like a sardine; formerly supposed to be the 
young herring. It appears at certain seasons in 
English waters in immense numbers and becomes 
extremely abundant and cheap in the markets. 

SQUAB-American name for young pigeons. The 
methods of cooking are the same as for quails and 
young chickens. Squab pie, like pigeon or chicken 
pie. 

SQUAB PIE, DEVONSHIRE—In Devonshire 
they have a special local pie, which is “ fearfully and 
wonderfully made.” It consists of a layer of sliced 
apples, a layer of sliced onions, and a layer of meat; 
the meat layer is well seasoned with pepper, salt, 
and a liberal allowance of sugar. They proceed 
thus until the pie-dish is filled; it is then covered 
with a crust. In spite of its eccentric ingredients, 
it is very good eating, and squab pie and clotted 
cream are the two best things to be got in Devon¬ 
shire. 

SQUASH—There are two classes of vegetables 
with this name and several varieties of each. The 
summer squashes are like the English vegetable 
marrow, greatly esteemed as a mashed vegetable, 
but very watery until dried down. The winter 
squashes are as mealy as potatoes and used in the 
same ways. They are as large as pumpkins and- 
deeper colored. 

SQUID—The cuttle fish; abundant in the Pacific; 
fished for and taken in large quantities by the Chi¬ 
nese and dried for use and sale. 

SQUIRREL—“The squirrel, a charming little- 
animal, which ought never to please but when alive* 








454 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


STA 

often appeared at Rome among the most elegant 
■dishes of the feast. At first it was only eaten by ca¬ 
price; unfortunately for the little animal, it was 
found to be very nice.” “The usual way of cook¬ 
ing squirrels in France is the same as for pullet 
stewed a la chasseur , which dish the squirrel, thus 
prepared, is said greatly to resemble. Squirrel 
is a favorite mets in many French country houses. 
Broiled Squirrel —Young squirrels are flattened 
out and broiled the same as chickens. Potted 
Squirrels —Baked in a jar in the oven. ( See Jug¬ 
ged Hare and Potted Rabbit.) Squirrel Stew— 
{See Cumberland Stew.) 

STARCH — French Laundresses Recipe — 
Make two gallons of starch the ordinary way with 
water, then melt in half of a common candle. Set it 
out of doors till cool enough to stir round with your 
hand and then mix half a cup of raw starch and stir 
in. Take off the sk>n that will form on top. “Any¬ 
body can iron with it.” 

STEAM BREAD — A recent invention. It is 
made of the very finest flour, and baked in air-tight 
pans, which enclose it on all sices. It is thus baked 
in its own steam and possesses a flavor peculiarly 
its own. 

STERLET—A Russian river fish: a small kind of 
•sturgeon. 

ST. HONORE CAKE—The ckaux paste, same 
as for queen fritters ( which see) laid in form of a 
border around a pie-paste bottom crust and baked; 
when done the cake is filled up in various ways, as, 
with pastry, cream or custard bordered (on top of 
the puff border) with sugared cherries or brandied 
fruits; or with the pastr}' cream mixed with whipped 
cream, etc. 

STILTON CHEESE—An English cheese, very 
choice and dear. It is made small in s'ze and drum¬ 
shaped, is cream-colored, and has a rough or wrin¬ 
kled crust. Just at the time this cheese has become 
fashionable in the United States it is giving way in 
England to gorgonzola, the new favorite; the com¬ 
plaint against Stilton being that it is not kept up to the 
former high standard of quality that made it world- 
renowned as a dessert cheese. Stilton, it seems, was 
first made by a Mrs. Paulet, of Wymondham, near 
Melton Mowbray, who supplied a celebrated sport¬ 
ing innkeeper, named Cooper Thornhill, of the Bell 
Inn, Stilton. Thornhill got a great name for his 
excellent cheese, and used to sell it for half a crown 
a pound, a lot of money at the time. In following 
English customs in this country it is apt to be for¬ 
gotten that over there cheese is not thought to be fit 
to eat until it is “ripe.” An intimation of what that 
means is conveyed in this: “The late Charles 
Mathews used to tell, with great glee, a little story 
of Charles Lamb which he vouched for as authen¬ 
tic and believed to be unpublished. One evening 
Mary Lamb took a sudden and violent fancy for 
some Stilton cheese for supper, an article of which 
there was not a scrap in the house. It was very 


STR 

wet, and getting rather late; but Charles, with that 
selfdenial which showed itself in a life-long devo¬ 
tion to his sister, at once volunteered to try whether 
any could be got. He sallied forth, and reached 
their cheesemonger just as the shutters were being 
put up. In reply to his demand, he was assured that 
he could have some fine ripe Stilton; and the shop- 
keeper proceeded to cut off a slice. As it lay on the 
scales, Lamb’s attention was forcibly arrested by 
the liveliness of the surface of the “ fine ripe Stil¬ 
ton.” “Now, Mr. Lamb,” said the cheesemonger, 
“shall I have the pleasure of sending this home for 
you?” “ No, th-th-thank you,” said Charles Lamb. 
“If you will give me a bit of twine, I cou-cou-could 
p’raps 1-1-1-lead it home! ” 

ST. PIERRE—Name often met with in foreign 
menus; it is a seafish, thejohn dory. 

STRAWBERRY—A prime luxury in its raw 
state when fresh, and good again in the form of 
preserves or jam, but a very poor fruit for stewing 
or pie-making. The best combinations with pastry 
instead of in pies are the Strawberry Meringue 
—A sheet of cake such as genoise, or butter sponge 
cake, or regular sponge cake (baked), thickly covered 
with ripe berries and sugar, upon these a thick coat¬ 
ing of soft meringue {see meringue) with sugar sifted 
on top; baked enough to cook the meringue but not 
the berries, and the other popular and wellknown 
American dish of cooked paste with raw strawber¬ 
ries, known as Strawberry Shortcake —The do¬ 
mestic form of this is what the name implies, a flat 
cake of short-paste about y inch thick after baking 
is split open and a thick layer of strawberries, 
sugared, spread between, and more on top. The 
paste may be made of y lb. butter rubbed into i lb. 
of flour and mixed with water. Some, however, 
use bisquit dough made light with baking powder. 
The best is puff short-paste, of fully y lb. of butter 
to i lb. of flour, made by rolling in the butter in 
flakes instead of rubbing in, and giving the paste 8 
rollings in all. The bakers, of course, make that 
which sells the best, and strawberry meringue as 
above described, made either with or without me¬ 
ringue, is the popular “ strawberry shortcake ” of 
the shops and lunch houses, meringue being a for¬ 
eign word and the cake combination tasting as 
sweet by the familiar home name. Mammoth 
Strawberries — The large berries served fresh 
should have the stems left on to hold them by; they 
are dipped in powdered sugar as eaten. Straw¬ 
berries and CREAM-This usually now means with 
ice-cream. It should be pure cream and not a cus¬ 
tard mixture. Otherwise the berries picked from 
their stems are served in saucers with powdered 
sugar and cold cream separately. Claret and 
Strawberries — Some people tell you that you 
should not drink claret after strawberries. They 
are wrong, if the claret be good. The milky taste 
of good claret coalesces admirably with the straw¬ 
berries, somewhat like cream. If the claret be bad, 
it is quite a different affair; and suspect it if you 





THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


455 


STU 

find the master of the house anxious not to make the 
test.” “Well, and did you not think him quite 
right about claret coalescing with strawberries? 
The French do, at any rate. Your dish of ‘ straw¬ 
berries and cream’ is unknown here; you probably 
remember the story about the horrified * Whatever 
is this for? ’ that came from a French gentleman to 
whom a plate of mashed strawberries was presented 
at a garden party during a recent season. Here cla¬ 
ret is added to the strawberries instead of cream or 
milk, and an admirable improvement it is on the 
latter. Only, as Maginn says, the claret must be 
:good.” 

STURGEON—“The lordly sturgeon, which may 
be recommended to people with tolerably good 
■digestions, larded with fillets of eel and anchovy, 
and basted with thick cray-fish sauce.” A Stur¬ 
geon of Full Size —At the Tivoli restaurant was 
recently exhibited the head of an exceptionally large 
sturgeon caught on the Dogger 
Bank, and consigned to Mr. T. 
Kent, of Billingsgate. The 
weight of this royal fish was 
644 pounds; its measurement be¬ 
ing 11 feet 2 inches long, and 5 
^ feet 2 in. in girth. Sturgeon in 

o the Great Lakes —The Stur¬ 
ts 

o geon is taken in abundance in 
Lakes Michigan and Superior, 
$ and as the price in market varies 
I according to the demand of the 
o curers, the fish are kept alive in 
0 pens at the fishing stations until 
orders are received by telegraph 
& to ship to the city. Smoked 
Sturgeon — Smoked sturgeon 
is now included by epicures 
among fish delicacies. About a 
hundred pounds at a time are 
placed in a brick furnace, with 
eight-inch walls, leaving an 
inside square of about three feet. A very hot 
fire being placed directly underneath, the fat as 
it melts generates its own smoke. Care has to 
be taken that the flow is not so heavy as to 
produce too fierce a flame, as then there would 
be a charred fish, which is not desirable. The 
time necessary to smoke sturgeon is about six 
hours. Eels undergo a like process, and are very 
palatable. There is a peculiarity about the smoking 
of haddock, inasmuch as it is smoked entirely with 
sawdust. Of course it can be smoked by other 
means, but the best method is the sawdust file. 
Dame d’Esturgeon au Four —Baked slice of stur¬ 
geon. Lay a fine slice of sturgeon in a tin dish, 
sprinkle with a little olive oil, the juice of a lemon, 
chopped mixed herbs, salt and pepper; bake, and 
when done, place in another dish, pass the sauce 
through a tammy, pour over the fish, and nand re- 
moulade sauce separately. Esturgeon en Fri- 
■CANDEAU — Sturgeon cut in thick slices, larded, 


SUG 

stewed with bacon and mushrooms and glazed. Es¬ 
turgeon Braise —Sturgeon larded and braised with 
wine stock, herbs, onions and ham. Esturgeon a 
la Bourguignotte —Baked cut of sturgeon served 
with Bourguignotte sauce. Esturgeon a la Ro- 
yale —A sturgeon tied up in the form of a cushion, 
covered with forcemeat, ornamented with slices of 
truffles and red tongue. Esturgeon Grille Sauce 
Piquante — Broiled sturgeon steak with piquant 
sauce. Esturgeon a la Reine —Small sturgeon 
steaks larded with strips of truffles sand lean ham, 
parboiled in seasoned broth; put into oiled papers 
with chopped herbs, folded up and broiled in the 
papers. Served without the papers with butter 
sauce around. Tranches d’Esturgeon — Slices, 
or sturgeon steaks. 

SUCRE (Fr.)—Sugar. Sucres —Sweets. 

SUCCOTASH—Indian name of a mixture of but¬ 
ter beans and corn cooked together, a common and 
popular American vegetable dish. 

SUEDOISE—Swedish dish of fruits, compotes, 
placed upon rounds of fried bread, and built up in 
pyramidal form around a center-piece of fried 
bread. 

SUGAR—In cooking such sweet preparations as 
are made with milk or cream, whether for custards, 
puddings, sauces, or whatever else, the sugar should 
be mixed in before the milk goes on the fire, and it 
will prevent burning on the bottom. This simple 
precaution does away in many instances with the 
necessity of following the onerous course demanded 
by most cook-book writers, to “ stir the mixture (of 
eggs, milk, flour, etc.,) constantly till it boils.” The 
milk and sugar together take care of themselves, 
and when poured to the eggs, starch, or steeped ta¬ 
pioca the cooking is almost finished and little time 
lost. Degrees for Boiling Sugar —These are the 
smooth, the thread, the blow or feather, the ball, 
the crack, the caramel. ist.-Smooth, or 215 degrees 
by thermometer; as an example take 12 lbs. of loaf 
sugar, to which put 3pts water; as soon as it boils 
see that all the sugar is dissolved, if not use the 
spaddle to assist in doing so, let it boil for five min¬ 
utes or so, dip into it the handle of a teaspoon, draw 
it between the finger and thumb; if on working 
them together they feel slippery, that is the first de¬ 
gree of smooth; this degree can be used for crystal¬ 
lizing liqueurs and various other goods. 2d-Thread, 
or 230 degrees by thermometer. In the course of a 
few minutes the sugar passes into this degree; hav¬ 
ing soaked the previous sugar off the spoon, try the 
boil again, close your finger and thumb together and 
gently part them, when, if you perceive a thread¬ 
like appearance between them, it has passed into 
this degree, which can now be used for making 
liqueurs or bonbons, &c, 3rd—Blow, and feather, 
240 degrees. In two or three minutes from the last 
sugar passes into this degree; dip a small skimmer 
or slice with holes in it into the sugar, drain it off 
quickly and blow hard through them, you will per- 







456 


THE STEWARD’S. HANDBOOK. 


SUG 

ceive bladders and feathery particles pass away. 
This is the blow or feather, very useful degrees, and 
can be used for candying peel, fruit, &c. 4th—The 
ball, or 250 to 255 degrees. About the same time as 
the last this degree arrives, have some cold water 
handy. Take a little sugar out of the pan with the 
handle of the spoon, dip it into the water, and if it 
is tough and you can work it about with the finger 
and thumb like a pinch of hot bread, that is the ball 
which can be used for candies or creams, if jams or 
preserves are to be mixed in after being worked 
into cream by the spaddle. 5th—Crack, 310 to 315 
degrees. Use the same process in testing as the 
last, but quickly; take a little out of the pan, put it 
into cold water, when it will crack, or slip it off 
quickly and bite it well; if it crunches and leaves the 
teeth without sticking to them, pour the sugar out 
instantly on your slab. This is the most usesul de¬ 
gree to the hard confectioner for all purposes of 
boiled sugars. (N.B.—In trying this last degree, 
unless an experienced workman, the pan must be 
lifted off the fire.) 6th—Caramel. It is not neces¬ 
sary to try this degree in the same way as the last; 
the instant the sugar changes color, which must be 
closely watched, as it occurs rapidly, it must be 
poured out, or if not raquired on the slab but for 
other purposes, such as spinning sugar, &c., place 
it in a tub of cold water the size of the bottom of the 
pan, to stop the heat, or it will turn very dark. This 
degree is mostly used for spinning sugar for orna¬ 
mental table use. To Prevent Graining — Asa 
rule, put about a quarter of an ounce of the cream of 
tartar to an eight or ten pound boil, accordiag to the 
strength of sugar; a teaspoonful of the strong acids, 
or tablespoonful of lemon juice or the best malt 
vinegar to the same quantity of loaf sugar to reduce 
its strength. The same effect is produced by using 
“glucose,” a fifth part of which to any quantity of 
sugur will reduce it to the required working condi¬ 
tion. The advantage of this is in increasing the bulk 
at a small cost. Although, strictly speaking, this 
is an adulteration, it is quite wholesome. Ther¬ 
mometers for Sugar Boiling— Are made of cop¬ 
per, degrees properly marked for the purpose, the 
scale beginning at 30, the degree for simple syrup as 
used in making mousses (ice creams) being 32. Can 
be pui'chased at confectioners’ supply stores. 

SUGAR ROCK WORK, or honey-comb candy, 
used for building ornamental pieces. Having made 
a wooden frame about 12 or 16 inches square, and 4 
inches deep, place it on a wet slab or wooden bench; 
take 7 lbs. loaf sugar (no lowering), boil to the cara¬ 
mel degree, previous to which, in a pound jar three 
parts filled with fine powdered sugar, mix the whites 
of two eggs, beat it well till stiff; when the sugar 
comes to the degree required, put in any color you 
like, take it off, pour icing in and immediately agi¬ 
tate the whole with the spatula; in two or three 
minutes it will rise to the edge of the pan, let it fall 
again and continue stirring, as soon as it begins to 
rise the second time, instantly pour it into the frame. 


SWA 

Many persons fail at this process from pouring out 
at the first rising, which on the slab becomes per¬ 
fectly flat and heavy. When cool remove it by pass¬ 
ing a fine string or -ong palate-knife underneath it. 

SUGAR SPINNJNG-Or web decoration. Sugar 
boiled as above to the beginning of caramel, or, take 
2 lbs. white sugar, y 2 teaspoon cream tartar, 1 pt 
water, boil to the crack for white web, or to the be¬ 
ginning of caramel for yellow. Let it cool for 10 
minutes, then place your ornamental piece with the 
stand and all on the floor, spread a newspaper to 
catch the waste threads. Have a bunch of wire 
with 8 or 10 ends or prongs, dip the wire prongs 
into the hot sugar, and as it drains off you will 
swing it around or across the ornamental piece to 
make a silky veil of fine threads till you have all the 
sugar used up. If not wanted that way, lay a broom 
on the table with the handle projecting over and 
swing the threads back and forth across the handle. 
When done run your hand under and cut the threads 
loose from the floor or paper and lay them in a bunch 
or skein where wanted. In this form spun sugar is 
used to represent water flowing in a cascade over 
rocks made of the honey-comb candy above men¬ 
tioned, or flowing out of a dolphin’s mouth. 

SUNSHINE CAKE—Yellow cake made of 1% 
lb. sugar, % lb. butter, 1 pint of yolks beaten with 1 
pint of milk, i}4 lbs. flour, % lb. rice flour, 2 tea¬ 
spoons baking powder, lemon juice and rind. 

SURPRISES—Culinary surprises, or dishes de¬ 
signated en surprise , are things which prove to be 
other than they purport to be, as when a cake filled 
with cream is made and colored to imitate a ham, or 
a baked potato is found to conceal a filling of minced 
meat or a bird. 

SWAN—Lately figured on the menu of Lingner’s 
Restaurant. A roast swan, which weighed before 
trussin 35 lbs. As to its culinary treatment, the bird 
was larded and stuffed with chestnuts and truffles, 
braised before roasting, and finally served up to the 
double accompaniment of red cabbage and port- 
wine sauce. There was a good demand for the 
dish, and roast swan was soon reported “off.” 
Twenty-nine “ portions ” were served, at 30 cents 
each. Mr. T. Vallet, of the Swan Hotel, Alton, 
sends us the following recipe in the hope that it 
may be “ of some use to a confrere, who finds him¬ 
self face to face with a cygnet for the first time.” 
“ The following will be found a very good way to 
treat it: When the bird is well cleaned, rub it inside 
and out with a spoonful of finely-bruised cloves, fill 
it with a stuffing made of 2 lb. of beefsteak, chopped 
very fine, well seasoned, adding 4 oz. of butter and 
some chopped shallot. Sew up the bird and tie on 
the spit with care, so as not to let the gravy escape. 
Cover with buttered paper. The fire should not be 
too fierce, as the bird is aot to acquire a high color. 
A cygnet of 15 lbs. requires a little over two hours. 
Half a pint of port-wine boiled with a little glaze 
mixed with the gravy that comes from the roast is. 




THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


457 


SWE 

to be poured on the dish. It should be served with 
hot currant jelly in a boat.” The breeding of 
swans for market is suggested by a correspondent 
as an industry likely to bear profit. He writes: “I 
•dined the other day at a house where for a party of 
twelve a swan was the piece de resistance. It was 
pronounced to be something between a goose and 
a roast hare for flavor, and, being a cygnet of last 
summer’s rearing, it afforded, some said, as much 
meat, and some rather more, than a first-class tur¬ 
key.” Cigne and Cignet are the French for swan 
and young swan. 

SYY EETBREADS-j-Both the thymus gland and 
the pancreas, are Included in the culinary name 
sweetbread, the substance of both being very simi¬ 
lar and either answers the same purpose; the pan¬ 
creas or stomach (or “heart”) sweetbread being 
•generally accounted the. best, although the throat 
sweetbread is freer from veins and more delicate in 
texture and therefore often recommended in spite of 
its irregular shape, which is like a piece of pulled- 
off fat. The cooks rely upon the butchers for these, 
and as it never falls to a cook to have to kill and dis¬ 
sect anything larger than a turkey, he takes what 
the butcher furnishes him without much question 
concerning the localities where they are found 
within the animal, and then begins his part of se¬ 
lecting them, and cooking them according to their 
adaptation, the best in shape to be sliced, larded, 
broiled, baked, braised or otherwise cooked in good 
form; the unshapely, irregular, torn or diminutive 
ones to be cut or minced, served in patties, or mixed 
with other meats and mushrooms in various gar¬ 
nishes, or in the form of croquettes,rissols or kromes- 
kies, or the form of scalloped sweetbreads and, per¬ 
haps, if they be plentiful enough to devote to such 
a purpose, in soup. Sweetbreads are not such very 
choice eating, they have but little flavor, but they 
are tender meat, like fat without fatness; they are 
white and adapted to be ornamented with strips of 
larding of black truffles, green cucumbers, or pista¬ 
chio nuts, or red smoked or corned tongue, and they 
take the flavors of herbs, wines and well - made 
sauces. That is why they are sought after and 
necessarily in the nature of things they are scarce 
and have been kept among the exclusive delicacies, 
that it was thought common folks had no business to 
want. People who board in hotels, however, want 
everything. There is a large hotel in an English 
city, whose proprietors are trying their level best to 
set an American sort of a table, but to do that they 
have to send over to France for some of their sup¬ 
plies; they cannot get either tenderloins of beef or 
good veal sweetbreads from their home butchers. 
The French eat more veal, anyway, than any other 
people, and calves’ sweetbreads must be so much 
the more abundant there. These are not the only 
kinds of sweetbreads, however, for lambs furnish 
the most delicate of all, and by reason of their 
smallness they must be the rarest and most exclusive 
dishes which are made of them. Cooking Sweet- 


SWE 

breads —Sweetbreads have taken their stand as an 
ubiquitous entree, and few elaborate menus are ar¬ 
ranged without them. Patties of sweetbread and 
truffles are in high favor and seem to be the caterer’s 
standard dish. In whatever way they are to be 
afterwards dressed, sweetbreads should always be 
steeped in water for two or three hours, then boiled 
from 5 minutes if very young and tender, to x hour 
if they are from very old calves, as the butchers 
sometimes bring them, and after that pressed be¬ 
tween two dishes until cold. Escalopes de ris 
de Yeau —Scollops or slices of sweetbreads pre¬ 
pared by cutting the cold and pressed sweetbreads 
into small thick slices, spreading them over with 
a croquette mixture of minced onions, mushrooms, 
parsley, seasonings and panada, egging, breading 
and frying them. Brown sauce containing sherry. 
Coquilles deris d’Agneau — Paris restaurant 
specialty. Lamb’s sweetbreads scalloped in shells. 
The sweetbreads are cut in dice, cut mushrooms 
mixed with them and both slightly fried in butter; 
rich white sauce added, filled into table-shells, bread¬ 
crumbs on top and melted butter; browned in the 
oven. Fricandeau of SwEETBREADS-The sweet¬ 
breads already cold and pressed are larded with 
strips of salt pork on the best side, braised in stock 
with herbs and vegetables; the liquor strained, 
boiled down to glaze and poured over them; served 
on a bed of spinach. Ris de Veau a la Villeroi 
—The sweetbreads already partly boiled, pressed 
and cold are cut in slices, coated with thick white 
sauce, breaded, egged, breaded again and fried; 
served with white sauce and any dressed vegetable. 
Ris de Veau a la Pontelle —White fricassee of 
pieces of sweetbreads in cream-colored sauce with 
mushrooms. Bis de Veau a la Colbert —The 
sweetbreads already partly boiled, pressed and cold 
are split, buttered, dipped in bread-crumbs, broiled; 
served with colbert cauce. Ris d’Agneau a la Jar¬ 
diniere— Lambs’ sweetbreads larded, braised and 
glazed, served with a jardiniere garnish of mixed 
vegetables. Ris d’Agneau aux Petits Pois— The 
preceding with peas, can be served with aspar¬ 
agus points and other vegetables and named accord¬ 
ingly. The French name of sweetbread serves 
well to show how easy it is to be weong in wording 
a bill of fare; “ ris ” is not only “ sweetbread ” but 
the same word stands for “smile.” An American 
lady at a French hotel once astonished and amused 
a party of her country people by translating the dish 
ii ris~de-veau a la financiered “the smile of a calf 
at the banker’s wife,” and was not far out of the 
way. To make it the more hazardous writing, while 
ris is sweetbread, “'riz ” is rice, thus: Casserole 
de riz aux ris d’Agneau-A baked shape or border 
of rice filled with lambs’ sweetbreads in sauce. 
Ills de Veau Frits —Veal sweetbreads fried. Ris 
de Veau a la Proven^ale— Larded, braised with 
bacon, garlic, tarragon leaves, the liquor strained 
and boiled down to glaze. Petites Croustades 
de Ris de Veau —Patty cases shaped out of bread, 






458 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


SWE 

fried and filled with sweetbread in sauce. Blan- 
quette de Ris de Veau aux Truffles—R ound 
slices cooked \yith slices of truffles in cream colored 
sauce. Ris de Veau a ea Toulouse — Larded, 
braised, served with a Toulouse garnish of cocks¬ 
combs, mushrooms, etc., in white sauce. Ris de 
Veau Piques a la Turque — Larded, braised, 
glazed, served on a border of forcemeat with rice in 
the center. Ris de Veau en Bigarrure—L ike an 
epigramme; half of them larded, braised and glazed 
and half breaded and baked brown, served in pairs 
w ith tomato sauce. Escalopes de Ris de Veau en 
Caisse—S mall rounds cut with a tube cutter; with 
“fines herbes ” in buttered paper cases with bread¬ 
crumbs on top, baked. Croquettes of Sweet¬ 
breads—C ut very small or chopped, stirred in a very 
thick sauce with seasonings; rolled up when cold, 
breaded and fried. Cutlets of SWEETBREADS-The 
croquette mixture patted into the shape of mutton 
chops; a piece of raw macaroni to represent the 
bone, breaded and fried or baked; served Avith toma - 
toes or other A^egetables. Rissoles of Sweet - 
BREADS-The croquette mixture rolled like very thin 
sausages, rolled up in thin pie-paste and fried. 
Kromeskies of SWEETBREADS-The croquette mix¬ 
ture rolled like bottle corks, rolled up in very thin 
slices of boiled bacon, dipped in fritter batter and 
fried. Sweetbreads with Kidneys a la Cordon 
Bleu—S weetbreads larded thickly with truffles, 
spread oA-er Avith pounded pistachio nuts moistened 
Avith Avhite of egg, baked in buttered papers; 
served with a border of broiled lamb’s kidneys and 
port Avine sauce. Curried Sweetbreads—L arge 
slices of SAveetbreads fried Avith onion and butter, 
stock added, flour, butter and curry poAvder stirred 
in; served Avith rice. Medallions de Ris de Veau 
—T omatoes raAV, peeled, are cut in halves and dried 
doAvn in the oven; round slices of cooked SAveet- 
breads sandAviched bet\A r een two halves of tomato, 
breaded and fried; served Avith fried parsley and 
supreme sauce. Saveetbread Soup or Potage a 
la Comtesse—M ade of veal stock, cream, cubes of 
SAveetbreads and fried croutons. Sweetbread Soup 
a la Pontoise—SA veetbreads in small pieces Avith 
raAV ham, leeks, Avhite Avine, in chicken stock thick¬ 
ened Avith Avhite roux. Sweetbreads (Ris de 
Veau)—A re in Paris served larded Avith a garnish 
of pointes d' asperges, that is, green asparagus tops, 
boiled, Avith a lump of butter added. This tasty 
dish is tariffed from 75 centimes to 7 francs, ac¬ 
cording to the restaurant at Avhich it figures on the 
menu. Entree of Sweetbreads—T ake 4 SAveet¬ 
breads, soak and blanch them, then steAV in milk and 
water, Avith mace and lemon-peel; Avhen cooked 
enough, strain the gravy, and thicken with a tea¬ 
cup of cream and a little corn-flour. Roll up eight 
or ten quite thin pieces of bacon, and fry them crisp, 
and set them on end in the middle of the dish, then 
lay small bunches of asparagus at intervals on the 
top of the bacon, cut the SAA^eetbreads into suitable 
size pieces, and put them round, then pour the sauce 


TAM 

over them so as to leaA-e the bacon and asparagus 
clear. 

SYLLABUB — Old English name of Avhipped 
cream flavored Avith Avine and SAveetened. Salla- 
bub with Jelly — Gelatine jelly of any flaA'or or 
color served in a border of Avhipped cream. 

SYRUPS—Pure fruit syrups are extremely use¬ 
ful in hotel cooking, being ahvays ready for SAA-eet 
sauces, sherbets, ice creams, etc. Raspberry Sa*- 
kop—T he juice of raspberries expressed either by 
tAvisting up tight in a strong toAvel or in a fruit- 
press made for such purposes. To 1% pints of juice 
2 lbs. of sugar is added, melted over the fire, boiled 
a Avhile, skimmed, filled into bottles and corked. 
Red Currant Sa-rup—T his and other fruits by the 
same general rule as for raspberry syrup. Ginger 
Sa-rup— 2 oz, bruised ginger boiled in 1 qt Avater, 
strained, and 2 lbs. sugar added, boiled doAvn to sy¬ 
rup. Soda Syrups — The foregoing with either 
dissolved gum arabic or Avhite of egg added to form 
a head or froth on top. Plain Syrup — For bar¬ 
keepers’ and general uses: 7 lbs. loaf sugar 
to 1 quart Avater, boiled up, skimmed, strained. 

T. 

TALLEYRAND—“The sole depository on the 
entire tradition of the State,” Talleyrand, even at the 
age of eighty, ate but one square meal in the day, 
his dinner; and eA-ery morning he required the menu 
of it from his chef. He Avould rise at ten, dressings 
himself even after the hands had got rebellious; and 
half an hour later Avould have an egg, a fruit or a 
slice of bread and butter, a glass of water Avith a 
dash of madeira in it, or perhaps only tAvo or three 
cups of camomile tea, before beginning “work.” 
No coffee, no chocolate, and “China” tea very rarely. 
He dined at eight in Paris, at five in the country, 
Avell and Avith appetite; taking soup, fish, and a meat 
entree, which Avas almost always of knuckle of veal, 
braised mutton-cutlets, or a foAvl. He Avould some¬ 
times have a slice off a joint; and he liked eggs and 
custards, but rarely touched dessert. He always 
drank a first-rate claret, in AA'hich he Avould put a 
very little Avater; a glass of sherry he did not de¬ 
spise, and after dinner a petit-verre of old malaga. 
In the draAving-room he would himself fill up a large 
cup Avith lumps of sugar, and then the maitre d’ho¬ 
tel— Careme, no less—Avould add the coffee. Then 
came forty Avinks; and afterwards he Avould play 
Avhist for high stakes. His senile eye-lids Avere so 
SAvollen that it Avas a A r ast effort to open them to any 
Avidth, and so he often let them close, and “slept” in 
company that bored him. He still continued to call 
up a secretary at night, and dictate to him through 
the closed bed-curtains. 

TAMARIND —The fruit of the tamarind tree 
which groAvs in the West Indies; it is in the form of 
a pod containing an acid pulp; the pods are packed 
in casks filled up Avith syrup. Eaten as a SAveetmeat 
and used to make a cooling drink. 











THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


459' 


TER 


TOM 


TERRAPIN—A salt-water tortoise. The subject 
of more speculative puffery and ingenious advertis¬ 
ing to advance prices to the most absurd extremes 
than any other food-product of America. Every 
crawling, sliding, sun hashing, mud-wallowing rep¬ 
tile of the turtle or tortoise kind now goes to pot in 
the name of one particular variety called the dia¬ 
mond-back, and as all are gelatinous, all devoid of 
any decided or characteristic flavor, and all are when 
dressed highly seasoned and alike flavored with 
sherry, to distinguish one variety from another by 
the taste is impossible; and to pay $4 or $5 for a 
plateful, or $10 or $20 a quart for the prepared article 
is sheer infatuation, a fashionable craziness, a con¬ 
fession to being the dupe of cunning advertisers. 
Terrapin or tortoise is good eating as cooked in 
Maryland country-houses, as are soft-shell turtles, 
hawk’s-bills, and snapping turtles likewise; they are 
all gelatinous, tender, and susceptible of being 
highly flavored by skillful cookery. Cooking Ter¬ 
rapin —There are four principal ways, the white 
fricassee, brown fricassee, the terrapin pie (like 
chicken pie), and the baking in the shell to be eaten 
with salt, pepper, and butter. These terms are used 
here, because chicken fricassees or stews are very 
generally understood, and terrapin is the same with 
the addition of more or less wine, according to cir¬ 
cumstances or individual tastes. Terrapin, Mary¬ 
land Style— The cream stew or white fricassee. 
The terrapin dropped into boiling water and allowed 
to remain for about 15 minutes; then handled with a 
towel, and the outer skin of the legs hastily scraped 
off before it becomes set fast. The terrapin is 
opened, gall bladder sought for and removed with¬ 
out breaking, intestines thrown out, eggs saved, and 
liver; flesh removed from the shells, divided in 
pieces, simmered in butter and the terrapin liquor 
collected from the shells while cutting up, little sea¬ 
soning of mace, salt, pepper; flour stirred in, sherry 
and boiled cream; the eggs added at last. Terra¬ 
pin, Baltimore Style —The same method with 
brown sauce and wine instead of cream and wine. 
In either case the first scalding is only a parboiling, 
and the blood still runs inside, and the cut-up terra¬ 
pin must cook about an hour afterwards to make it 
gelatinous and tender. Terrapin Soups —Cream 
of terrapin is made of terrapin broth strengthened 
with veal or chicken broth and vegetable season¬ 
ings, cream and butter, pieces of terrapin and 
thickening of yolks mixed in without curdling with 
too much heat, and chopped parsley. Terrapin soup 
brown is made same as turtle soup. 

THON (Fr.)—Tunny; a fish. 

TIMBALE—Thimble or drum shape; anything 
formed in a plain round mould. 

TOMATOES—These brilliantly colored fruits are 
most wholesome and delicious to those who have 
once acquired the taste for them. To our mind there 
is no more delightful salad at this time of year than 
a couple of well-ripened tomatoes sliced, sparingly 


flavored with shredded onion, seasoned with pepper 
and salt, and liberally sauced with Provence oil and 
white wine-vinegar (two parts of oil to one of vin¬ 
egar.) Cooking Tomatoes— “There are two modes 
of adapting the use of the tomato> to man—the hot 
and the cold. For the latter the Spaniard is supreme; 
but the Proveng-ale alone knows howto dress it hot. 
The people of Bordeaux (where all the women are 
born cooks) imagine they can supply you with a dish 
of stuffed tomatoes. It is a mistake. Firstly, their 
soft, often hazy, south-western climate does not 
furnish the fruit; secondly, they have not the oil; 
and, thirdly, they have not the ‘trick* of it. No! 
there are a few things for which you must go to 
Provence (of which Messer Francesco Petrarca—a 
rare gourmet in his day—was well aware.) You 
must go to Aix for its oil, to Barbantane for its as¬ 
paragus, to Cavaillon for its aubergines and its mel¬ 
ons—those Sir John Falstaffs of the kitchen garden; 
to the Fontaine de Vaucluse for its eels and its fat 
becquefigues \ but to Avignon for its tomales farcies. 
This dish is the business of a day. First take a 


timbale moulds. 

shallow copper tourtiere and see how many tomatoes 1 
of equal size will fit into it, very closely together. 
Next take out each tomato, cut off one-third of the 
upper part, and put it (face downwards) into a plate 
upon a pinch of strewn salt. Leave- the fruit for 
about three hours, until all the acid juice- shall have 
exuded. This prevents the stupid complaint of ig¬ 
noramuses, that ‘tomatoes are unwholesome, and 
they are afraid of them.’ When all the ‘vice’ has 
been taken out of them, range your ‘apples’ in the 
tourtiere , with a teaspoonful of oil at the bottom to 
keep them moist, and then delicately apply to each 
one a light covering of the forcemeat described be¬ 
low, introducing the wee-est portion of it into the 
orifices of the cut fruit. When this is complete, set 
it on a charcoal-fire covered over with ashes, and let 
it stew gently till it is ready to serve. The time usu¬ 
ally required is two hours or two hours and a half. 
The ‘ stuffing ’ consists of yolk and white of eggs 
boiled hard, of tarragon and chervil, of breadcrumbs 
(sifted), of an onion or two (cooked), of a spice of 
garlic; the whole well chopped and mixed together 



















































































460 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


TOR 

(not till it is a paste), and at last having some grated 
Gruyere cheese {depremiere qualite') added on to it. 
All this ‘stuffing’ must be so delicately spread over 
the tomatoes that it forms a manner of light crust; 
and previously to being carried to table it must be 
cunningly ‘browned’ by a very skilful hand. The 
whole time of its stewing it has to be unremittingly 
watched, for if it gets dry, oil must be gently dropped 
in, and if a danger of wet shows itself, it must be 
obviated by a pinch of the finely-grated cheese. It 
is a plat calling forth every quality of a first-rate 
cook; but when it succeeds, it amply justifies the 
high reputation of the Provencal chefs." 

TORTUE (Fr.)—Turtle. 

TOURNEDOS OF BEEF—Small thin beef¬ 
steaks briskly fried. They are served in crown- 
shape with a sauce in the center. 

TRAGACANTH—Gum dragon; used for making 
gum-paste ornaments for cakes. It becomes like 
flour paste when soaked in water, and is then mixed 
with sugar and starch. 

TRIPE—It consists of the first stomach of the ox. 
The fibre differs from that of meat; is both nutritious 
and of easy digestion. To cleanse tripe is quite a 
trade of itself, it being an object to make the finished 
product as white as possible; the method is to steep 
the tripe in lime water or in lye water for 2 or 3 days 
and then scrape away the outer coating, after which 
it is soaked in several waters for some days longer. 
The hotel buyer finds it in market ready-prepared, 
either uncooked and fresh or in kegs in spiced vin¬ 
egar ready-cooked. The raw tripe requires 10 hours 
slow boiling to make it tender for the subsequent 
modes of dressing; the soused tripe is used in all the 
same ways, and if desired can be divested of most 
of the vinegar by soaking in water with a little soda; 
simple washing in one water is, however, generally 
a sufficient preparation. Said About Tripe— “The 
Greeks devoured tripe with much complacency, re¬ 
garding it, indeed, as a dainty fit for heroes. It 
formed the chief dish at the banquets of men who 
met to celebrate the victory of mortals and gods over 
the sacrilegious Titans.”—“TheCarleton Club has a 
famous specialty of broiled honey-comb tripe with 
butter.”—“Well-dressed tripe with its natural ac¬ 
companiment-onions—is an excellent supper-dish, 
as it is equally digestible as a sole.”—“Those who 
are fond of tripe I should advise to instruct their 
cooks to use white crystal sugar in the cooking, say 
one ounce to the pound of meat, to be stirred in im¬ 
mediately before being served.” Tripe a la Mode 
de Caen —“Happening to be at Caen I took steps to 
learn exactly how the tripe, for which this town is 
so famous, is prepared. Strangers sometimes wish 
to regale themselves with this dish; but if they 
happen to partake of it on a week-day, they run 
great risks of being disappointed, for it is on Sun¬ 
days only that the wholesale manufacture takes 
place. Every Saturday the lovers of tripe carry 
dishes, soup-plates, and other receptacles to the dif- 


TRI 

ferent shops. The money to pay for each portion is 
invariably put in the bottom of each plate. At some 
shops these dishes come in by dozens, and long jour¬ 
neys are often undertaken by customers to reserve 
the quantities they desire at the shops in good re¬ 
pute. For if the preparation of tripe is a general in¬ 
dustry here, one only finds that fine gold-colored 
sauce, which is so justly appreciated, at those houses 
where only the best ingredients are used, one of the 
principal of which is the good butter of the district. 
The following is the recipe usually followed, and is 
suited to all countiies: Take some fine fresh tripe, 
bleached and well washed in warm water. Rinse it 
thoroughly, and let the water run off completely. 
Cut the tripe into two-inch squares. Bone 4 cow- 




trophy OF PIGEONS [boned]. 

On shell-shaped dish; stand of white wax or 
mutton fat cast in mould. 


heels, and cut them into pieces; take an ox-tail and 
cut it into several pieces. Take a large narrow- 
mouthed stone jar, put in it first a layer af tripe, then 
a layer of onions, next your pieces of cow-heel, then 
the ox-tail, then the rest of the tripe. Add a good 
handful of leeks, parsley, thyme, and laurel-leaves, 
plus 1 onion into which you have stuck 6 cloves. 
Cover the whole with 1 kilo of butter (2 lbs. oz.), 
and 1 kilo of good fresh beef-kidney fat. Pour in 2 
litres (4 Yz pts.) of caramelized water, 2 glasses of 
brandy, and hermetically close the jar. Put it into 
an oven, and let it bake for 10 hours. You will thus 
obtain tripe of most excellent quality.” A Tripe 
Dinner— A company having been formed to estab¬ 
lish and conduct a number of tripe houses or restau¬ 
rants, the directors had a sample dinner prepared 













THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


461 


TRO 

•where the principal dishes were “Tripe a i'An- 
glciise ” (broiled), “Fried Tripe a la Sotibise” (with 
puree of onions), “Tripe a la Milanaise ” (in tomato 
sauce), “Baked Tripe and Onion Sauce.” Tkipe a 
la Creole —Cut lbs. of tripe into narrow strips, 
put in a saucepan with enough gravy stock to cover 
it, add lb. of tomatoes, some chopped onion, a 
dove of garlic, little olive-oil, salt, Worcestershire 
sauce, and red peppers. Stew gently until well done, 
and serve. Tripe a la Lyonnaise —Cut in strips, 
mixed with fried onions and espagnole, or meat- 
gravy. Tripe a la Poulette— Take the thickest 
and whitest tripe, cut it into thin slices, and put 
them in a stewpan with a little white gravy, i spoon¬ 
ful of vinegar, a little lemon-juice and grated lemon- 
peel; add the yolk of i egg well beaten, with a little 
cream and chopped parsley; shake together over a 
slow fire until the gravy is as thick as cream, but do 
not let it boil; served with sippets of toasted bread. 
Fried Tripe -Wiped dry, dipped in egg and cracker 
dust, fried. Tripe in Batter— Pieces about 2J4 


TRU 

well together. Fillets of Trout— Are prepared 
in precisely the same way as fillets of salmon; the 
fillets are dipped in beaten egg, drained, and rolled 
in fine bread-crumbs, and fried a light brown color 
in boiling lard or oil. 

TRUFFLE—A species of fungus which grows 
several inches under-ground, but never appears 
above the surface. It is one of the articles of great 
luxury in France and Italy, where it grows. As it 
cannot be cultif-ated but grows spontaneously, the 
harvest is extremely uncertain and prices often run 
up to an extravagant height. This, however, is one 
of its attractions. Brillat-Savarin remarked: “Per¬ 
haps if they were not expensive, but were within 
the reach of everybody, ive should not prize them so 
highly.” It is said that the gray (inferior) truffle 
has been found in Massachusetts and Pennsylvania, 
and the black truffle, equal to the Perigord truffle, 
has been dug up in Virginia. As to the color, how¬ 
ever, some authorities contend that the gray or 
white truffle is the black truffle in its unripe state. 



inches square dipped in fritter batter and fried in a 
kettle of hot lard or oil; served for breakfast. 

TROPHY—A general designation for a highly 
decorated piece of cooks’ work, of no particular 
form, but in any form. Trophies of game are some¬ 
times composed of cooked game of several kinds 
with their skins or feathers replaced, beaks and claws 
gilded, etc.; but any conspicuously ornamental piece 
may be called a trophy. 

TROUT — Brook trout are generally fried or 
broiled, though the lake trout found in Hamilton 
County, Seneca Lake, etc., are better boiled, and 
served with a simple sauce of parsley and butter. 
Broiled Trout —The following is a choice old rec¬ 
ipe for dressing trout: Take out the entrails, cut the 
fish across the side and wash them; fill the cuts with 
thyme, marjoram, and parsley, chopped fine; set the 
gridiron on a charcoal fire, rub the bars with suet, 
and lay the trouts on, basting them with fresh butter 
until they are well broiled; serve with a sauce of 
butter and vinegar and the yolk of an egg beaten 


They are.found underground by means of dogs and 
pigs trained to hunt them by the scent. The canned 
and bottled truffles obtainable at the fancy grocery 
stores serve a purpose in decorating dishes and fill¬ 
ing out the names of dishes in genuine style, but 
they possess little, if any, of the perfume and flavor 
of the fresh article. A Bad Truffle Harvest— 
There has been a rise in the price of Perigord truf¬ 
fles, and the Parisian chefs are much concerned at 
the high cost of these delicacies, which now com¬ 
mand no less than $3 a pound. The less savory 
Piedmont and Dauphine species, which fastidious 
cooks despise, may be had for $2. These are sold 
to poultrvmen and pork butchers to stuff turkeys, 
&c. There is so much difference in the quality and 
flavor of truffles, that caterers for epicurean tastes 
very rarely buy any but the real Perigord, which 
has a peculiar and delicious aroma. A Good Truf¬ 
fle Harvest—A Paris correspondent writes: “It 
is gratifying 10 learn that the truffle crop, now in 
process of gathering, is to be a very abundant one, 















































































THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


*62 


TUN 

and a single house at Perigeaux, which is the center 
of the truffle trade, purchased three and a half tons 
last week. Some of the truffles in this lot weighed 
over one pound each, this being a very uncommon 
weight to attain: and it may be assumed, therefore, 
that truffles will be cheaper than they have been for 
the last few seasons.” Truffles a la Serviette 
—Truffles in a napkin. The largest truffles are 
baked in the coals like potatoes, and served in a 
folded napkin. Truffes au Supreme —The best 
recipe for cooking truffles is Truffes au Supreme, 



for which proceed as follows: One dozen fine truf¬ 
fles, black with large grain are best; put them to 
boil in half a botte of old madcira, with two little 
liqueur-glasses of fine champagne cognac, gray salt, 
a pinch of cayenne, a clove minus its head. Let all 
this boil together for the space of half an hour, then 
withdraw the truffles and place them in a timbale, 
reduce the liquor in which they have been boiled to 
one half, add half a spoonful of meat-glaze, “body” 
the sauce with some good butter, pour it over the 
truffles and serve at once. Turkey Stuffed with 
Truffles —See Din don Trnffe. 

TUNNY-A fish like the Spanish mackerel, found 
in the Mediterranean. It is taken also in Florida 
waters and known as the horse mackerel. Tunny 
is esteemed by the Italians; they preserve it in oil 
and “thon ” prepared in various ways is very fre¬ 
quently met with in European menus, but oftenest 
among the hors d' oeuvres. 

TURBAN—Crown shape; anything built up in 
such shape in a dish or formed in a turban mould. 

TURBOT (Fr.)—Turbot; same in both tongues. 

TURBOT—This is the most highly esteemed of 
all flatfish, not only on account of its intrinsic ex¬ 
cellence, but because of its favorable shape for the 
purposes of decoration. Famous as it is, and often 
appearing in American menus, it is not found in 
American waters any more than is the sole. It is 
very probable that in many esses where the bill of 
fare offers turbot the place is filled with plaice or 
large flounder or fluke for a substitute; but on the 
other hand the English turbot is unlike most fish in 
being the better for keeping a short time and the 
fish brought over by the mail steamers are still in 
excellent condition, so that genuine turbot is notout 


TUR 

of the question when a rarity is desired. Said 
About Turbot —A‘turbot, if kept two or three days, 
will eat much finer than a very fresh one; it being 
only necessary to sprinkle the fish with salt, and 
hang it by the tail in a cool place. Before putting 
it into the kettle make an incision in the back, rub 
it well with salt, and then with a cut lemon. If a 
turbot be boiled too fast it will be woolly.” “You 
may serve up salmon with as much ornament as you 
will, but a turbot asks for nothing but aristocratic 
simplicity. On the day after he makes his first ap¬ 
pearance it is quite another affair. It may then be 
disguised; and the best manner of effecting this is 
to dress him a la Bechamel.” “The great French 
cook Careme never sent any other sauce than melt¬ 
ed butter to table with turbot.” Notwithstanding 
the foregoing remark a “turbot a la CarSme” is 
now a complicated dish of boiled turbot covered 



with a creamy stew of small shellfish. The turbot 
is epecially adapted to be cooked by boiling—sim¬ 
mering in court bouillon—but is also cooked in all 
other ways of any kind of fish. Turbot Fins — 
“ The thick part of the fins and the gelatinous skin 
are the parts of the fish most relished by epicures. 
When preparing it for cooking on no account cut 
off the fins.” Turbot Grille a la Vatel — 
Broiled small turbot served with mussel sauce and 
crayfish. Turbot a La Religeuse— Convent style; 
boiled, served in Hollandaise sauce, sprinkled with 
chopped tarragon, and garnished with hard-boiled 
egg. Filets de Turbot PARisiENNE-Take a small 
and fat Dover turbot, and cut the four fillets obtained 
from the fish into scallops, well shaped and trimmed. 
Prepare a forcemeat of whiting, mixed with puree 
of fresh mushrooms, and spread this forcemeat over 
the fillets very smooth. A good mushroom sauce 
should be poured over them. Turbot a la Vic- 
TCRTA-Simmered in court-bouillon till tender, dished 
the white side uppermost on a folded napkin or lace 
edged fish paper; the whole white surface sprinkled 
with lobster coral; decorated with stuffed olives and 
pickled cranberries. 

TURKEY—A turkey cock is best for roasting, a 
hen for boiling; and be sure it is properly cooked, 
for half-cooked poultry is simply uneatable. “A 
turkey boiled is a turkey spoiled,” runs the old pro- 



















THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


463 


TUR 

verb uncompromisingly; but a change is always 
pleasant, and, in spite'of the dogmatic old law, a 
properly boiled turkey is uncommonly good eating. 
Wild vs. Tame Turkeys —The wild turkey is a far 
more excellent tjble bird than the domestic turkey; 
in fact there is riS comparison. The barnyard can 
not give that flavor and that texture which testify to 
wild berries, seeds and nuts, fragrant grasses and 
pungent buds eaten in the freedom of the wilderness. 
In short the true, the genuinely patriotic Thanks¬ 
giving roast is the body of a wild turkey. The 
great day comes just at the time when spring- 
hatched birds are coming to maturity, plump ’and 
tender, juicy as ripe fruitand flavored by the subtlest 
processes of nature to a delicate nicety which no 
cook may hope to imitate. The epicure knows this 
flavor and values it, and the wild turkey should 
bring twice the price of a domestic one in the mar¬ 
ket. “ Lord Lome’s attempt to acclimatize the wild 
turkey has so far proved successful, and there seems 
no reason why it should not be bred throughout the 
country and take its place on the menu side by side 
with the wild duck.” 

TURTLE—Half a dozen great turtles in the 
United States alone give their tender flesh to epi¬ 
cures, and minister to aldermanic amptitude. These 
all come out of the sea, and the chief of them is he 
of the green tint. A salt water turtle, weighing 
500 pounds, was captured at the mouth of the Spur- 
wink Rtver, in Maine, by two brothers named Jor¬ 
dan. It seems the monster got entangled in the 
nets these men had set, and they fastened to the tur¬ 
tle and towed him ashore. Monday they sold him 
to Captain Howard Knowlton, for his garden at 
Peaks’ Island. The price paid for the turtle was 
$50. So broad is the shell of this monster, that four 
boys found room to stand thereon, and the turtle 
was strong enough to crawl along with this load. 
A Mammoth Turtle — While the steamer Flora 
Temple, of Jacksonville, Fla., was cruising near the 
snapper banks yesterday about fifteen miles off 
shore, Captain Montcalm Broward observed an 
immense black object floating on the surface jf the 
water. Upon approaching it he discovered that it 
was an immense turtle of some sort, which was 
lazily sleeping on the surface of the water. The 
captain secured a harpoon, and when near enough 
he dexterously threw the weapon and succeeded in 
fixing it firmly in the back of the monster. It was 
found impossible to raise this mountain of flesh to 
the deck of the boat, so the captain attached a haw¬ 
ser to the harpoon and, taking it in tow, brought it 
up to the city, arriving at Decottes’ woodyard about 
5 o’clock, when the huge object was hauled out upon 
the shore, where its great size soon attracted a large 
crowd that gazed with wonder upon the strange 
visitor. The weight of the captain’s catch was va¬ 
riously estimated to be from 1000 to 1,500 pounds. 
It measured across the anterior limbs fully eight 
feet two inches, was seven feet two inches from the 
end of the nose to the tip of the tail, and perhaps 


TUR 

eight feet in circumference. The captain called his 
catch a tortoise, but the News-Herald man identi¬ 
fied it as a peculiarly splendid specimen of the trunk 
or leathery turtle (Sphargis coriacea .) This great 
sea denizen inhabits the Gulf stream along the At¬ 
lantic shores and elsewhere. It does not have a 
shell, but is covered with a leathery skin, with 
seven longitudinal ridges. It is the largest of the 
turtle tribe. Turtle Steaks — The flesh of the 
turtle is called “ Barbadoes beef” in the West In¬ 
dies. Turtle steaks and turtle fins are favorite 
breakfast dishes in the Antilles. Turtle Pie— 
There are many ways of cooking turtles in the Ba¬ 
hamas, where they are largely caught. The favorite 
plan is to make the bulk of the flesh into a kind of 
hash, well doctored with port and other wines, and 
then to serve it up in the shell covered with crust, 
so that it looks like a kind of meat pie. This is 
called “ baked turtle.” Turtle Soup Thick or 
Lice —The turtle is killed by cutting off the head, 
hung up by the hind flippers to bleed, then lowered 
into a kettle of boiling water and parboiled, if con¬ 
venient, but if not, can be cut up raw, as it is done 
in the New Orleans fish markets, where turtle is 
sold in cuts as wanted like any other raw meat. 
The object of scalding is to make the shell separate 
easily and allow the outer skin to be peeled from 
the fins. When opened the gall bladder and in¬ 
testines are taken out and thrown away, the eggs, 
if any, saved, and the green fat found under the 
shells is saved separately, the turtle meat allowed 
for the soup, and the chopped up shells are then 
put on to boil in water. In another boiler is made 
the same preparation as for espagnole (which see) 
of fried slices of ham, veal, onions and other vege¬ 
tables, spices and herbs in butter, brown rcnx 
added, and veal or beef broth and the turtle broth, 
which are all then allowed to simmer slowly for 
some time; the roux of butter and flour having 
thickened the soup, it requires stirring and 
care to prevent burning. The remaining op¬ 
eration is to strain the soup from the mixed 
ingredients, skim off the fat, put in the turtle 
meat cut in pieces, the turtle eggs, pieces of green 
fat, salt and cayenne, and madeira or sherry, and 
little lemon juice. Turtle Soup a la Creole— 
The only difference from the foregoing is the addi¬ 
tion to the boiling soup before straining of a large 
proportion of stewed tomatoes, about one-fourth of 
the whole being tomatoes before straining. Turtle 
Soup Clear —Is made in both of the ways just de¬ 
scribed, with the single difference that no roux or 
other thickening is put in. Cooks, who have a reg¬ 
ular daily habit of making a clear consomme of some 
kind for dinner, often proceed in a different way by 
seasoning and clarifying the turtle broth and color¬ 
ing it, adding the cubes of turtle meat at the mom nt 
of serving. Turtle soup is not nearly so well known 
or highly thought of in the United States as in En¬ 
gland, where it is and has long been almost a na¬ 
tional dish, nothwithstanding their turtles have to 







464 


THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


TUR 

be imported from this side. This is on record since 
So years ago: Turtle Souf — 1 'The usual allowance 
at a turtle feast is six pounds live weight per head; 
at the Spanish dinner, at the City of London Tavern, 
August, 1S0S, 400 guests attended, and 2,500 lbs. of 
turtle were consumed.” Appropos of turtle soup 
and turtle steak, it was Artemus Ward who said: 
“As for me, give me turtle or give me death. What 
is life without turtle? Nothing! What is turtle 
without life? Nothinger still!” 

TURTLE EGGS—Turtle eggs are held in great 
esteem wherever obtainable, equally by Europeans 
as by others. These eggs have a very soft shell, 
and are about the size of ordinary pigeon’s eggs. 
The mother turtles lay three or four times a year, 
at the rate of from 140 to 200 eggs each laying. The 
Orinoco and Amazon Indians obtain from these eggs 
a kind of clear sweet oil, which they use in much 
the same way as we do butter. In the month of Feb¬ 
ruary, wnen the high waters of the Orinoco have 
receded, millions of turtles come on shore to deposit | 
their eggs, which they always carefully cover over 
with the sand. The natives about the mouth of the 
mighty River Amazon alone, gather some 5,000 jars 
of the oil, and each jar of oil represents the product 
of over 5,000 of these turtle eggs. 

W. 

WOODCOCK—Small game-bird larger than a 
snipe; in season 5 months, September to January in¬ 
clusive. Said About Woodcock —“There is noth¬ 
ing in the whole mundus edibilis equal to a well- 
prepared woodcock. To no other bird do we pay 
such homage: is is the glory of the gourmet, the 
pride of the cook, the Avell-beloved of all men; the 
height of gustatory excitement, the consummation 
of all luxury; succulent as regards its flesh, volatile 
touching its elements, and perfect respecting its fla¬ 
vor.”—“The gourmets have a way of knowing when 
the flesh of the woodcock is arrived at the degree of 
flavor required to be sought after. The bird is sus¬ 
pended by the beam-feather of the middle of its tail; 
when the body gets loose and full, then is the time 
to eat it.”—“In one respect the woodcock (and also 
his cousin, the snipe) is more honored than any 
other kind of game. He is never drawn; every 
morsel of him is eaten, to the last entrail. The 
choicest bit is the head, the thigh is finer, the trail is 
considered superlative. The usual way of roasting 
this bird is to tie him up in slices of bacon, and hang 
him, tail downwards, before the fire. Under each 
bird is put a slice of bread, toasted a delicate brown, 
and on to this the trail drops. Sometimes when half 
done the trail is removed, mixed with bacon fat, 
chopped shallot and crumbs of bread, salt and pep¬ 
per, and then spread upon the toast, which is re- ■ 
turned to the pan until the bird is finished. Lemon 


WOO 

in slices is served with him.”—“It is a bad plan to 
‘spit’ any small birds; they should be tied to a spit, 
and, if roasted in the contrivance which the French 
call a rotisscire , they stand a better chance of being 
artistically roasted.”—“When roasted, woodcocks 
and snipes ought to be, as the French term it, vert- 
cult —that is to say, underdone. As is well known, 
they must not be drawn; the gizzard alone is ex¬ 
tracted from the inside with the point of a skewer, 
inserted in the side of the bird, which is then trussed 
in the usual way, and wrapped up in a slice of fat 
bacon tied round with string. Fifteen minutes is 
sufficient time to roast a woodcock before a brisk 
fire.” Woodcock Pie —“Snipes and woodcocks 
are plentiful in Ireland. In accordance with ancient 
custom, the Lord-Lieutenant sends every year as a 
Christmas present to the Queen a monster game-pie 
composed of 2 doz. woodcocks and about 100 snipes. 
The birds are boned and stuffed with a farce of 



WOODCOCK—BECASSE. 


foie gras aux truffes, and the crust is elaborately 
decorated with appropriate designs.” Woodcock 
Cooked in American Style —Picked and singed 
while fresh; head skinned; eyes, crops, and gizzards 
removed; trail chopped with two chicken livers, salt, 
pepper, butter, and spread on slices of toast. Birds 
with slices of fat pork on breasts roasted in hot oven 
15 minutes, toast with trail set in oven 5 minutes; 
woodcocks served on the toast. Becasses a la 
Piemontaise — Woodcocks roasted, served with 
game sauce and truffles. Filets de Becasses a la 
Talleyrand —Breasts of woodcocks in form of a 
crown, with croutons of fried bread spread on the 
trails, same size as the fillets; fumet sauce with 
truffles in the center. Filets de Becasses a la 
Lucullus —Breasts of woodcocks coated with force¬ 
meat and served on a border of toasted bread, with 
a thick puree of woodcocks piled in the center, and 
game sauce around. Salmis de Becasses —Wood¬ 
cocks are the best of all birds for a salmis. Turban 
de Becasses aux Champignons —The birds cut in 
halves and dished in crown shape with game sauce 
and mushrooms. Chaudfroid de Becasses— 
Woodcocks roasted, cut in joints, coated by dip¬ 
ping in thick chaudfroid of game sauce; decorated; 
eal.cn cold. 













APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


How to Fold Napkins. 

.i^IBTTILTID^INrX’Xj’Z' HjXjTTSTIS-a.T’EID 


With Many Handsome Styles and Diagrams 
Which Show How it is Done. 



CHICAGO, ILL. 

Jessup Whitehead, 

PUBLISHER HOTEL COOK BOOKS, 

183 nouth :f:eo:r,i-a. street. 


1888 . 

















JOHN ANDERSON & CO., 
a • » » Printers, • • • 

183—187 N. Peoria St., Chicago, 111. 






CONTENTS 


PAGE. 

Introduction_ 5 

The Escutcheon_ 7 

The Chestnut Pocket_ 8 

The Shield_ 8 

• 

The Mitre_ 8 

The Cornucopia_ 9 

The Crown_ 9 

The Scroll _ 10 

The Slippers_ 11 

The Cocked Hat, or Boat_ 11 

Another Boat_ 12 

The Hamburgh Drum_ 13 

The Heraldic Rose and Star_ 14 

The Minarettes_ 14 

The Shell_ 15 

The Fan_ 15 

The Rosette Fan_ 16 

The Victoria Regia_ 16 

The Swan_ 16 

Lorgnettes_ 17 

The Pyramid_ 17 

The Fleur-de-Lys_ 18 

The Archbishop’s, or Double Mitre_ 18 

The Bread Basket_ 19 

The Flower Basket_ 20 

The Imperial Crown- 20 

The Double Horn of Plenty_ 21 

The Colonne de Triomphe___21 

The Tulip____-___22 

The Bridal Serviette_23 

The Prince of Wales’s Feather- 24 

The Arrow Head-25 

The Menu Holder- 25 

Mercury’s Cap-26 

The Sail Boat__-.-.-.-..27 

Hotel Napkin Folding- 28 


( 3 ) 


























































INTRODUCTION. 


The folding of the serviette may often be made complimentary to the guest. 
Not only does “the Bridal” point out its special application; but “the Crown, ,r 
“the Prince of Wales’s Feather,” and “the Mitre.” “The Boat” is appropriate 
when a naval chief is the honored guest; “the Colonne de Triomphe,” for the 
entertainment of a hero fresh from a new victory; “the Victoria Regia” fora 
distinguished botanist, and “the Fan” for a reigning belle, so may “the Cocked 
Hat” be made available when a military hero is entertained, and “the Heraldic 
Rose ” for a guest whose hobby is with things that appertain to the board. 

In the days of our forefathers the quantity and quality of the viands were 
thought of more consideration than the appointments of the table. Provided the 
hospitable board groaned beneath the combined weight of substantial food and a 
. silver service, the banquet was pronounced magnificent. Now we have changed 
all that. The contents of the dishes have become secondary in importance to the 
decorations. The eye must be feasted as w r ell as the palate. Heavy silver 
ornaments have given place, or at least are associated with, vases of crystal and 
abundance of flowers, with scent fountains and the choice fruit selected for des¬ 
sert. The folding of the serviette, or table napkin, was always a matter of atten. 
tion; at the present moment it is doubly so, w r hen the luxury of table decorations 
are carried to such an extent that ingenuity is constantly on the strain, not only 
to produce every possible variety of cartes de menu , but even fanciful stands to- 
hold them or the guests’ name-cards in a prominent position. The parlor maid 
or the w r aiter, or the dainty mistress of the house herself, must look to their 
laurels in the matter of folding serviettes, or the other showy trifles placed on the 
board will cast the attractions of the table napkin completely into the shade. To 
fold them well in the more elaborate styles, it is necessary that they should be 
made of very fine, but rather stout damask, starched more or less, quite fresh and 
nearly new. Old damask, that is soft, will not take the more elaborate forms. 
Each serviette, previous to folding it, should be laid on the ironing-board damped 
with (raw) starch, smoothed with a hot iron, and immediately folded whilst crisp 
and steaming. It not only folds better, but preserves the form longer by such 
means; and unless this is attended to designs like “the Fan,” “the Victoria 
Regia,” “the Bridal,” and “the Colonne de Triomphe,” could not effectually be 
made. “The Boat” and “the Basket” also require very stiff serviettes. The 
serviettes must be exactly square, and pains taken to make the sides perfectly 
even and true 


( 5 ) 








































































































. 








■ 









































































APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


7 


FOLDING SERVIETTES. 


THE ESCUTCHEON. 



B 



D 


This is one of the easiest methods possible of ornamentally folding a serviette 
and we recommend a novice to commence with it. Indeed, we have arranged 
the folding as progressively as possible. Although it will sit more crisp and fresh 
in appearance if made with a fine new well starched material, the Escutcheon can 
Ss made very well with old or even crumpled damask, though, of course, servi¬ 
ettes should always be scrupulously clean and smooth. First, fold the serviette in 
half lengthwise; and then fold it in half again lengthwise, keeping the edges to 
the lower end, which comes where in the diagram A A and B B are marked (see 
fig. i). It is necessary to be always very precise in making the folds, bringing 
the* ^dges and corners exactly to meet, a rule which applies to all the designs; 
but without strict attention to which, the more elaborate patterns cannot be 
represented. 




Now turn over each end of the serviette 
(which you have already folded in four), in the 
manner shown in fig, i, creasing it quite flat. 

Then take one of the ends and roll it up in the 
manner shown in fig. 2 , from C to D. Take the 
other end, E, and roll it in the same way. It is Fie:. 4. 
to be observed that these rolls are brought exactly to meet (not 
to overlap) the triangle formed at the top. It is, however, 
necessary to remark that the napkin is to be rolled in the 
reverse way from that apparent in the illustration; that is, to be rolled under and 
not over, a difference which must not be neglected. Keep the rolls one in each 
hand, and with a twist of the wrist bring over the roll C, to the point F (causing 
the fold marked bv the dotted line), and with a twist of the other wrist bring the 
roll up to the same point to match it. Then lay it flat on the table, the rolls 
underneath (see fig. 3 ), and keeping them down with the hand, raise the other 
part and shape it as shown in fig. 4 , and slip the dinner roll in the hollow at the back. 


Fig. 3. 
























8 


APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


THE CHESTNUT POCKET. 


Fig. 1. 




Fig. 2 . 


Fold the serviette in half both ways, and open it again. Bring all the corners 
to the centre. Turn it over and again bring all the corners to the centre. Turn 
it back again and slip the chestnuts in the four pockets to be observed in fig. i. 

Fig. 2 , the Pocket Serviette, is made in the same way; but the corners are 
brought three times, instead of twice, to the centre, turning it each time (see fig. 2 ). 


THE SHIELD. ' 




The Shield is almost identical with the Escutheon; there is, however, a slight 
difference, which forms a little variety and practice in the art of 
napkin-folding. 

First form fig. 1 , as for the Escutcheon. Next roll up the two 
ends in the manner shown in fig. 2 ; that is, make the rolls out¬ 
wardly, not under as in the previous direction. The serviette 
will now resemble fig. 3 . Then set it into form, and place 
Tig. 4 { the bread inside. The face of it will stand perfectly upright 

and resemble figure 4 . 



THE MITRE. 

The Mitre is a well-known device, and one which always looks effective 
It is not unlike the Crown. Fold the damask in half, and turn down the two 
corners to meet at both ends, in the manner shown in fig. 1 , taking care to let 
them meet very exactly and not overlap. Fold it in half at the line A to B, fig. 
1 , to ascertain the centre. Open this last fold again and bring the two points ih> 
the centre like fig. 2 . Fold these together at the dotted line with the points out- 






























9 


APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 

—-- r -—- 

side, let down one of these corners again, and turn in the two points A and B also, 
.to make a triangle uniform with the others: it will now resemble fig. 3 . Turn the 



A 


Fig. 2 . 



B 




Fig. 4. 


serviette over; let down the point on that side: it will then resemble fig. 4 . Turn 
in the corners A and B, by the line marked. Turn up the point D to its former 



position: it will now resemble fig. 5 . Slip the hand inside the hollow to be founo 
at the broad end, and shape it like a cap, and the Mitre is complete. 


THE CORNUCOPIA. 


Cornucopias are easily folded, and very effective down a long dinner table, 

with a single scarlet geranium flower at the apex 
of each. Halve the serviette 
lengthways; turn down the cor¬ 
ners at the two ends to meet in * 
the centre and form a triangle, 



B 



Fig. 1. 


Fig. 2. 


like fig. 4 , in the Crown. 



Fig. 3 . 


Take the corners at the base and bring them to the apex, 
like fig. 1 . Then double it together with folds inside: it will 
now appear like fig. 2 . At the side marked A, there are 
three folds. Set it upright over the dinner roll, with two of these folds one side 
and one on the other. Shape it nicely, keeping the space from B to C close. 


THE CROWN. 


This is a handsome design, and is one which requires very well starched 
damask. The bread is placed inside, underneath the crown. Now that flowers 
are so much used, nothing could have a more charming effect than a slight wreath 
of flowers round the base of it, at the part marked A to B, in fig. 1 . Fig. 2 repre¬ 
sents the serviette laid on the table. Fold it exactly in half from A to B, open 






















































































10 


APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


and fold the reverse way, from C to iX Open it again. These creases are merely 
made to ascertain the true centre. As it lies, turn all the points to the centre, 

C A 



B 




Fig. 3. 


D 

Fig. 2. 

and crease down in the manner observed in fig. 3, which forms a diamond. Take 
the four corners of the diamond and fold them to the centre again. The serviette 

will still preserve the shape shown in 
diagram fig. but be smaller in size. 

Bring the top, A, to the right hand, B, 
and the left hand, J3, to the other, A; it 
will now resemble fig. 4 . Fold down the 
corners, E F and G H, parallel to the line 
I J; it will now resemble fig. 5 . Put the 
hand inside it at the broad end, and shape 
it like a cap, over the hand, folding one end into the othei as 
shown at C, in fig. 5 . The stiffness of the damask should be sufficient to keep 
these last folds in & place; the corner fold should just be turned one corner within, 
the other as an envelope, and pinched, to secure its remaining film. 

THE SCROLL. 






Fig. 2. 


The Scroll is simple to 
fold. It is represented com¬ 
plete (fig. 3 ). The bread is 
under the centre, on which 
the name card' may be laid- 
It does not require to be 
stiff. First fold the serviette four times length¬ 
ways. Fold down one end in the manner 
shown at A, in fig. 2 . Then fold the end A 
completely across, forming the line, B B. Roll 
up the end A, and produce the fig. 3 . Treat the other side in the same way. 
Fig. 3 illustrates the process. The space in the middle. A, fig. 1 , is closed over 
the bread. 


Fig. 3. 


























































































APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


11 


THE SLIPPERS. 




I he Slippers are very easy to make. Double the serviette four times length- 
ways. Then fold like fig. i. The ends are simply rolled, taking the corners ... 
the method shown in fig. 2; bring¬ 
ing them over as shown in fig. 3, 




Fig. 4 . 


FIG.3. 


and with another turn forming the Slip¬ 
pers (fig. 4). Secure the point at A, with 
the left hand, whilst rolling up the other 
side; and then hold both points together 
with the left hand and place the right in 


the top of the Slippers, setting them over the dinner roll, which should be placed 
underneath at B, fig. 4; and the Slippers pinched close together at the top over 
it. A few flowers in the hollows of the folds is a pretty addition. 


THE COCKED HAT, OR BOAT. 



Fold a serviette in half lengthways (see fig. 1), then in half 
again (fig. 2). Fold it lengthways again, with the edges inside, in 
the way shown in fig. 3 . Fold it in half lengthways at the dotted line with the 
edges outside. Turn down the corners in the manner explained by fig. 4, both 
sides alike; it now resembles fig. 5. Turn in the superfluous end C, shown in 
fig. 4, inside the hat: this makes it resemble fig. 6. Shape it with the hand and 
slip it over the dinner bread. If the edges are left outside in folding (fig. 3 ), 
when finished, a space will be offered at the top wherein a few flowers may be 




































































































12 


APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


placed. A Boat may also be folded by this diagram by reversing its position on 
the plate. A still better way to make the Boat is to double a serviette in half 
lengthways, and again the reverse way. Fold the two edges to the centre: this 
makes an oblong. Turn it over on the other side. Turn two of the corners to 



meet in the centre; must not be opposite corners, but both at the right end. 
Turn the two left end corners half to the middle. Iron down. Then fold 
the whole in half lengthways, having the corners inside. This completes the 
Boat. Put the bread underneath. 


ANOTHER BOAT. 



The Boat is exceedingly pretty, especially if freighted with a few flowers. 
The serviette should be well starched to sit firm and sharp, and must be an exact 
square. First fold it in half like a shawl. Next take the corner A (fig. i), and 
bring it to C. Turn over the serviette on the other side. Take the corner B, 
and bring it to C in the same way, but on the other side: this forms fig. 2 . Fold 





rJG.3 


fig. 2 in half by the line in the centre, bringing D to E, and forming fig. 3 . Fold 
the point F to H. Turn over the serviette and fold G to H, on the other side: 
this produces fig. 4 . Fold the half of the end J to K, producing fig. 5 . Fold L 
to K, on the other side. These folds must be so made as to leave the upper part 
of the serviette, which will now again open and look like fig. 3 , from F to G. 



Slip the hand inside hero, round it open a little, and so bring F to meet G, mak¬ 
ing it flat the reverse way: this is represented by fig. 6 . Turn down the whole 
point M to N, on the thinnest side, like fig. 7 . Slip in the thumbs at the opening 
at O in fig. 7 , and holding the last fold firmly down; dexterously turning the Boat 
inside out: the inside fold resembles a capital A. Pinch the sides of the A the 











































































































APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


13 


mother way, making it an A again; and drawing out the Boat lengthways. Shape 
it a little with the hand. The bread may be slipped under the centre, A, or cabin 
•of the Boat, provided it is not too large. A pretty addition to this would be to 
attach the carte de menu , by the means of a Chinese ribbon, to a chip, spill, or 
^slender stick, and fix it in the Boat as a sail. The name card may also be attached 
3:o resemble an additonal sail. 

THE HAMBURG DRUM. 



The first three folds are made like those of the Mitre; namely, fold the 
■serviette in half lengthways. Turn down the corners like fig. i, fold it in half 
across the centre, inwards, from A to B, keeping the corners inside. It will now 




FIG.3. 



-resemble fig. 2 . Fold it again from C to D, into the shape of fig. 3 . Let down 
the point E; turn down the corners F and G, to make a triangle uniform with the 
.others: thus you have fig. 4 . Let down the corner H, as shown in fig. 5 : this 




FIG.6* 



FJG.7 



corner must be the one that has the selvage on the lower corner, 
by the dotted line in fig. 5 : this produces fig. 6 . Take the upper fold at A and B 
-in the same diagram, open it back and crease it down to resemble fig. 7 ; turn the 


































14 


APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


napkin over. You now have Eg. 8. Fold over the edges C and D to E, to match 
the folds on the other side. Turn up the napkin again; turn up the point C, and 
bring the corners, E and F, together likewise. Slip the hand into the hollow at 
the base, as you did for the Mitre; and place over the bread. 

THE HERALDIC ROSE AND STAR. 



Spread a serviette, full s-ize, flat on the table. It must be a perfect square, 
exact at the corners. Bring the four corners exactly to the centre, in the way 
described in fig. i. Take the corners A and B, and without turning the serviette, 
again bring them to the centre, as shown in fig. 2. Bring C and D likewise ta 
the centre: this forms fig. 3. Take one corner and turn it under (not over as 
before) by the dotted line <? to f; turn under the other three the same way. Then 
again bring all the four corners to the centre, on the upper side, as in fig. 2. 




Afterwards repeat turning all the corners under, as in fig. 3. Then once 
more repeat fig. 2, and bring the remaining corners to the centre, uppermost. 
Press the folds firmly down. Then, one at a time, turn the corners half back 
shaping them like little pockets, by slipping the fingers in at C (A to B, fig. 4), and 
forming the corners out square. This makes the Rose. Or by turning it down 
in the same way, without squaring out the corners, the Star, fig. 5, is made. Open 
up the eight petals, to be found in the centre, and fit in the dinner roll. 


THE MINARETTES. 


The Minarettes is a design expressly originated for the present work. It 
requires to be well stiffened. Fold the napkin in half. Turn down the corners 
as in fig. 1 of the Mitre. Fold in half and turn in the corners till you have an 
exact triangle as in the Mitre (see fig. 1). Then let down the outer side of the 
triangle. Fold the corners at both sides by the dotted lines, A and B (fig, 1). 





















APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


15 


Take the outer pieces, C and D, and fold back so as to have two points alike. 
Fold the lower end to match; halve it, and you will now have fig. 2. Fold up at 



the dotted line. Pass the fold inside like fig. 3. 
4, and place the Minarettes over the roll. 



THE SHELL. 



The Shell requires a very stiff serviette. Fold 
the two edges together in the centre, lengthways, 






Tig* 3 * 


as shown in fig. 1. Fold in half down the centre, also lengthways, leaving the 
edges outside. Then crimp evenly in the manner shown in fig. 2. Open up the 
top end, and turn down the edges each way, as they 
appear in fig. 3. Keep the lower ends together like a 

fan. If well done, 
it can be balanced 
on the plate by the 
ends, in the man¬ 
ner illustrated by 
fig. 4. 



THE FAN. 

The fan is made 


.Tig. 4 . 



Fig. 5 . 


precisely like the 

Shell, only the edges are not turned down; but in folding, at first, are kept inside. 
The fan is placed in a glass, in the way shown in fig. 5. 

It is, also, sometimes folded again before crimping three parts up. This 
forms a double Fan, and the lower one should be pulled out a little by the fingers. 



















































































































16 


APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


THE ROSETTE FAN. 

The Rosette Fan is very handsome and uncommon, but difficult to make, 
requiring very nice manipulation. First fold the serviette in half, lengthways, 
the edges downward. As it lays on the table, make it into three equal folds, 
lengthways. Then take the upper fold between the finger and thumb, length¬ 
ways, and the lower fold between the second and third fingers of each hand. 
Bring the lower fold up to within an inch and a half of the fold left, and the one 
between the finger and thumb to within an inch and a half of that. The 
hemmed edges ought to be an inch and a half below the last of the three plaits 
y r ou have now formed. Press them well down. Crimp as for the Rosette. Hold 
what would be the handle of the Fan well in the left hand, and keep it all close 
together. Insert right through the upper fold or plait the handle of a silver 
fork, the fiat way, and when right through, turn it, rounding out the plait like a 
bullionne on a lady’s dress. Treat the other two plaits in the same way. Then 
put the handle end firmly in a glass and let the top spread out. The effect is 
excellent. 


THE VICTORIA REGIA. 



This spirited design is difficult to accomplish, and requires 
to be very stiff indeed. Fold the serviette in half twice, 



Pig. 2. Fig. 3 . 


lengthways, keeping the hems to the edge.. Then plait it as the Shell was plaited, 
in the way shown in fig. i. The number of petals will depend on the number of 
folds, which should be twice as many as were made for the Shell, the width being 
only half as much. Keep the folds as close together as possible, and begin form¬ 
ing the petals by drawing back the first hem, as the edge of the Shell was done. 
Proceed to turn down the next fold and make another round of petals to meet the 
first ones, and finish by making the last hem fold in the same way (fig. 2). Set it 
round by bringing the two edges of the serviette together. It is not at all easy 
to set the petals well. The bread is not to be placed in or under it; but a single 
flower, such as a rose, may very properly be slipped into the heart. Fig. 3 
represents the Victoria Regia, which should be placed in the centre of the plate. 


THE SWAN. 

The Swan is a very simple fold, yet one 
requiring some knack to produce. The servi¬ 
ette should be very stiff. Form a triangle by 
folding it in half. Hold the point, A, between 
the teeth; take C and B in each hand. Hold 
it tight across the chest, so that from A to D it 
is strained tight against you. Roll up the ends 
B and C very tight, one in each hand, in the manner shown in fig. 2. The reason 
it is held tight across the chest is to keep it plain at E; otherwise it would curl up 
to the top. Now bring the points B and C together (fig. 2). Bend over the point 

























APPENDIX TO TIIE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


IT 


A and shape the twisted pieces so as to give the appearance of a Swan. Our 
illusti ation gives but a rough notion of it, as it is not easy to delineate well on 
paper, and at the same time show the way of bending it. With a little manipula¬ 



tion, a very good imitation of a Swan may be produced. The centre piece is the 
head and neck; the twisted portions represent the outline of the breast, body 
and the legs. 

LORGNETTES. 


Lorgnettes are very easy indeed, and are a neat design. Fold the serviette in 
half lengthways. Fold back an inch, or an inch and a half, at the double end, 



Fig. l. 


and bring it to the centre, in the same way observable in fig. i. Turn it over on 
the other side and roll both ends, one at a time, to the centre; taking care to press 
in with the fingers, as it is rolled, the tendency to bag up; so as to keep it smooth 




% 



outside, and the centre band tight. Stand it upright. The Lorgnettes do not 
inclose the bread. 


THE PYRAMID. 


The Pyramid, provided the napkin is very stiff and fine, is easily made. 
Double it in half one side within an inch of the other, so that it may be more 
slender towards the point. Fold it in seven the narrow way, like fig. 3, in the 
shell. Press these folds down with an iron; then crimp them across with a paper 
knife, folding it in and out the width of the knife. Lastly, join it round like a 
pyramid, and stand it upright over the bread. For a bride, or a distinguished 
guest, slender wreaths of flowers may be placed all round in every crimping. 



















































18 


APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


THE FLEUR-DE-LYS. 

The Fleur-de-Lys should be folded with very stiff damask, a little damp, and 
fresh ironed; but may be made with a small light damask, without starch, by 



using a little pin at the back of the waist, marked C to D in diagram (fig. 
5). Rich heavy damask of a large size is always tiresome to fold without starch’ 
although looking whiter, brighter, and handsomer on table. Lay the serviette 
flat on the table: fold it in half; and in half again, lengthwise; keeping the 





selvages all to the top. Halve it the narrow way, A to B (fig. 1). Merely make 
the crease, and open this last fold again: thus you have the centre marked. Take 

the ends E and D, and fold them to the centre: 
you thus have an oblong, equal to two squares. 
Turn down the corner E, and you have a resem¬ 
blance to fig. 2. Take the point D in that diagram, 
and bring it to C. Take the point E and turn it 
under to C, in the way shown in fig. 3. Treat the 
point F in the same manner. Thus fig. 4 is made. 
Double fig. 4 in half, flat from A to B. Hold it 
tight between the thumb and finger at C and D. 
Take hold of the points at A and pull them out 
to resemble the petals of a Fleur-de-Lys, like fig. 

Fl £* 5 * . 5. Turn up the corners, E and F, at right angles 

to stand it upon, pinching the waist well in. If not quite stiff enough to stand 
alone, after being pinched a moment, place a pin at the back of the waist; but 
pins are always better avoided. 



THE ARCHBISHOP’S, OR DOUBLE MITRE. 

The Archbishop’s, or Double Mitre, is exceedingly pretty, and may be folded 
from any serviette. First fold the linen in half, and lay it flat on the table. Turn 
down six inches from the top. Fold down an inch and a half of this at the edge, 
and fold that over again; the folds forming an outside band like that shown in 




































APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


19 


fig. i, from A to B. Raise the ends A and B in the hand, and form the point C, 
in fig. 2, allowing the folds of the linen to overlap a little. Smooth it down flat, 




without raising or moving it from the table; fold the lower end the same, and 
bring it up to D E, in fig. 3. Turn the fold D E, down 
on the right side, and make another point with it like 
that at C, in “fig. 2, but a little lower, so as to show the 

top point above it. Lastly, 
fold up the lower edge F G ? 
about an inch and a half, to 
form the band of the Mitre. 

Bring the two ends F and G, 
round to the back, to make 
the shape of a cap, and in¬ 
sert one in the other. If 
large enough, fix it over the 
dinner roll. If not, set it on 



Fig. 3. 

the table, and place the roll upright in the hollow, 
guest. 

THE BREAD BASKET. 



The front should face the 


Fold the serviette four times lengthways. Turn down the corners in the 


way observed in fig. 1. Make 
the three standing folds A 
across the centre, the middle 
one to project, C and D to 
bend inwards. This makes 




Tig. 2. 


D 

Tig.L 

a hill or ridge in the centre. 
Fold back each corner at the 
dotted lines F and C. Now 
B hold it erect like fig. 2. Pinch 
it up together in a flat line. 

Place it 


MaKe a circle of it by bringing the ends together and inserting B in A. 
tround the bread. 


















































20 


APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


THE FLOWER BASKET. 


Take a very stiff square of damask, and fold it exactly in half. Open and 

fold in half the reverse way. The centre is now ascertained^ 
Fold all the corners very exactly to the centre. Iron therm 


iff 

if 

Hip 

fjlfl 

yfiy. 


Tig. 1. 




Fig. 2. 


Fig. 3. 


down; turn over, and again turn the corners to the centre. Turn the serviette 
over again and take each corner from the centre, and fold it back at the half- 
Then crease it from A to B (fig. i), open the crease, and fold it again from C 
to D. Take it in the hand and bring the crease A to C, and C to B, and so alE 
round. This will enable you to make it stand. Hold the apex between the 



Fig. 4 . 


fingers of one hand and square out the four sides. This makes it resemble fig. 
and completes it. A few flowers should be arranged in the compartments. For 
variety the corners may be left upright, like fig. 3. By reversing it, as shown in. 
fig. 4, a different design is obtained. 


THE IMPERIAL CROWN. 


The Imperial Crown requires very stiff damask—an exact square is best,—and’ 

either a very small serviette, or a very large one 
folded in four, to reduce it to a quarter its size. 
Lay it flat on the table: fold the end, A B, over to 
the dotted line in the centre, C D. Do the same 
the other side, 
bringing E F to 
C D. Then place 
the end, A B, in 
three folds, as for 
a fan, the whole 
length of the 
damask, and 

crease them down, making the folds exactly use the piece between A B, and the 


















































































































APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


21 


fold at g y h. Then fold the end, E F, to match. Then bring the folded ends, 
A B, to the centre, j, crossing the folded part of one over the other where 
they meet. The serviette will now look like fio-. 2. Turn 
the fold, E F, to the back and fold down. Next bring the 
corner E, by the dotted line K L, completely across, like 
fig. 3; the end N is to be level with the end E. The end N 

is then to be crossed over to match, 
and the end of the band inserted 
in the folds of the other, so as to 
hold firmly together. Put the hand 
inside and shape it. When set 
over the dinner roll it will stand 

s Z_ [ firm. It should be a full-sized roll 

The front of the hat should face 
the guest. If the carte de menu is 
not too large, it may be placed in 
the plaited fold at N, before crossing the ends over. 

THE DOUBLE HORN OF PLENTY. 

This requires a stiff serviette, damp and fresh ironed. It may, however, be 




FIG.3. 


FIG .4. 




Fig. 1. 

made from a limp one, if a small pin is inserted at each side, after the last fold. 
Lay the serviette flat on the table; fold in four lengthwise, keeping all the sel¬ 
vages one way. Turn the two ends to 
meet in the centre. Turn that over, and 
turn down two corners not at the selvage 
edge, at the lines A to B, and C to D. 
Turn it over and it will resemble fig. 1. 
Take the end C, and roll it over to D 
(see fig. 2). Bring A to B in the same 
manner, and complete the design. It is 
most suitable for a Christmas dinner 
party, when it may be filled with holly 
or any bright flowers; or one space may 
be filled with holly and the other with grapes, almonds, raisins, &c., to represent 
plenty (see fig. 3). Pinch the horns down and hold them a minute, to make them 
preserve their shape. 

THE COLONNE DE TRIOMPHE. 

This is difficult to fold, although it may be done with a soft damask. Starch 
is, however, an improvement. The secret of success depends entiiel^ on 1 oiling 
it very lightly. Lay the serviette flat on the table. From A to B (fig. 1), fold 













































22 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 

down about six inches, if it is a large serviette. After trying the fold once, by 




reference to the illustration, it will be seen if the proportion is properly kept. 
The one which we have just folded ourselves, as a model, stands fifteen inches 




high, eleven for the shaft of the column, and it is very erect and firm, although 
made of limp damask. Fold the damask in half from C to 
D (fig. i), to ascertain the half. In the left hand nip up the 
corner E, as shown in the illustration; the centre C and the 
corner G in the same way, like fig. 2, shaping them into 
laurel leaves. Then pleat down the serviette, holding the 
top still in the hand, in the way described in fig. 3. Next 
take the end H (fig. 2), that is, the left hand lower corner, 
and pass it completely round the serviette to the right, 
bringing the selvage tight round from A to B in fig. 3. Lay 
it on the table, holding the neck at E grasped in the hand, 
at first; and tucking down and keeping tight the folds from 
C to D (fig. 4), whilst rolling over the end E to F, as tightly 
as possible, umbrella wise; pressing it on the table as you 
roll it up, to keep it firm. Fasten the end with a little pin. 

Then firmly tuck in the odd corners at the base, in the way 
half a pound of sugar or an ounce of almonds are turned 
in. Twine a wreath of flowers around it. The artificial wreaths of small roses 
or holly, sold at the grocers’, are pretty for the purpose. Set it upright, and with 
a little manipulation it will sit firm in the plate. 



FJG.5. 


THE TULIP. 


The Tulip requires a very stiff material. The folds are very simple, but 
require nicety of fingering and pressure with a hot iron. Bring all the corners 





























APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 



to the centre, as for the Crown. Bring the corners down to the centre again and 
again; in all five times. Press it well. Finish all the serviettes to be folded 



so far, and then recommence with the first by turning down all the corners one 
by one, to form the Tulip petals, which should hang down in long points, like a 
dog’s ears. Place the Tulip on a glass. 


THE BRIDAL SERVIETTE. 

The Bridal Serviette is almost identical with the Pyramid, and is so called 

because it is a favorite for wedding 
breakfasts. At the top it is to be 
decorated with a few flowers. For 




IrIG.I* 


FIGr.2. 


the bride, stephanotis, white roses, or any white flowers available, mixed with a 
little orange blossom. For the other guests, scarlet flowers. The serviette must 
be very stiff and damp from fresh iron¬ 
ing. Lay it on the table flat. Fold it not 
in half, but within an inch and a half of 
the top (see fig. i). Take the corners A 
and B, and fold them to C and D again, 
within an inch and a half of the last fold, 
and like the last fold flat and straight 
across. This produces fig. 2. Again take 
the ends E and F and fold over to G and 
H, within an inch and a half of the last 
fold. This will probably about halve the 
remaining piece; but that will depend 
on the size of the serviette. Then fold 
it the narrow way, backwards and for¬ 
wards, as for a fan, nine times, creasing 
it firmlv down. Opening it as little as possible, turn down all the tops of the 
folds in the way noticed in fig. 3, beginning at the top of the three tiers. Then 
join it round, fixing the first fold over the last, and pinch it together at the top. 



F1G.3. 




























































24 


APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


THE PRINCE OF WALES’S FEATHER. 


The Prince of Wales’s Feather is a perfectly new design, invented especially 
for the present work. It is simple in effect and very handsome in appearance. 
It requires a very stiff crisp serviette. Lay the damask on the table, ironing it 



damp. Fold it from fig. 2 in the Crown, from A to B, using the hot iron to- 
crease it. Without disturbing this fold, crease in half again the reverse way, 
from C to D, thus reducing the size to a quarter. Smooth it with the iron. Next 
fold this in half diagonally, like fig. 4 in the Crown. Observe fig. 4, in the 





FIG.5 


illustrations on the present page, carefully. Fold it in half from A to B, 
using the iron; this will produce fig. 2. Make the fold C to- B, on one side 
only, in the manner shown in fig. 3. Then fold it back again at the dotted 
line D, and it will resemble fig. 4. Fold the other side to match, always using 
the iron to press every fold. Open it and it will resemble fig. 5, with the folds A, 
C, D. Make the folds, E, as shown in fig. 5, taking care not to flatten the other 



fo ds, leaving the serviette 
only just open enough to 
' make the folds, E, each side. 
It now resembles fig. 6. 
Bring the last two folds 
quite flat and inside C and 
D, and it will resemble fig. 7. 
Treat the other side the 
same, and then fold it in 
half in the middle, A, and it 
will resemble fig. 8. Now 
allow it to open a little and 
hold it by the apex, B, fig. 9. 
Keep it very much indented 




in the centre (A to B); bring the wings or side feathers rather forward, and curl 
over the three tips of the feathers by bending them with the fingers. Place it 
upright in a wine glass or a slender single flower glass in the same manner as the 
Fan is nlaced. Fig. 10 shows the Prince of Wales’s Feather complete. 

















































APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


25 


THE ARROW HEAD. 


Fold the napkin in half lengthwise to the right, and turn down top edge A A 
by dotted line X X to centre line CC; repeat the same with bottom edge B B by 



dotted line O O to centre line C C, as shown in fig. i; it will then 
appear like fig. 2. Next proceed to fold in half towards you by 


t 




Fig. 1. 


Fig. 2. 


3. 


turning down top edge D D by centre line C C to bottom edge E E, which makes 
it resemble fig. 3. In this figure lift up the edge F F at bottom, and bring the 
right-hand top corner C, tucking it under edge held up by left hand until it comes 
level with centre line X X ; repeat the same with left-hand top corner C, bring it 
underneath bottom edge F F, which must now be held up by right hand until the 
corner C comes level with centre line X X, and level with the right-hand corner 
previously tucked underneath; it will then form fig. 4. Now fix it upon the bottom 




Fig. 


5. 


edge A A, open out the sides right and left at B and C equal distances all round. 
It is then finished as seen in fig. 5. Dinner rolls can be placed in any of the 
recesses. 


THE MENU HOLDER. 


Fold the napkin into three parts lenghtwise, as seen in fig. 1, then take the 
right-hand end A A and fold in to the centre marked X X; repeat the same with 
left hand B B to the centre line X X, depicted in first fig.; it then forms fig. 2. In 
this diagram turn down the right-hand top corner C to centre X X, repeat the 


E 

> 

* 



A 

& 

A 


Fig. l. 




Fig. 2. 



same by turning up the left-hand bottom corner D by dotted line; turn the whole 
over, keeping the points right and left of you, as seen in fig. 3. In this diagram 
turn down top edge A A to bottom edge B B, at the same time giving the left-hand 












































20 


APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


corner a lift upwards, so as to allow the underneath point to appear; it will then 
resemble fig. 4. Proceed now by turning the right-hand corner A by dotted line 
X X, lifting with the left hand the uppermost point marked E, and put the right- 
hand-corner under it; turn the napkin over to the left, and repeat the same with 
another corner B, which appears to the right hand by dotted line X X; tuck this 
between the edges at C, crease the whole well, then open bot- 



Fig. 6. 


Fig. 4 . 


Fig. 5. 


the menus can set in on top, and you have this pattern finished as seen in fig. 6 


MERCURY’S CAP. 

Commence this design by opening out the napkin with points to and from and 


right; and turn down all the corners to the centre, thus reducing the square 
smaller, turn the napkin over to the right, keeping the points in the same places 
as at commencement; it then appears like fig. 1, except that the points are all 
underneath. Next turn up the point nearest you marked A by dotted line to B. 



You now get fig. 2; and in this figure turn down the uppermost of the two top 
corners marked A by dotted line seen about three parts down shown in diagram; 
it then forms fig. 3. Turn the napkin over to the right. You then get a similar 
figure to last. Turn down the top point A to bottom point B, and it forms fig. 4. 
Now turn the napkin over towards you, and the points will then be a top like 
fig. 5. In this figure all that remains to do is to turn down the uppermost top 



Fig. 4 . 


Fig. 5 . 


Fig. 6. 


corner, and turn the right-hand corner B underneath by dotted line until it 
reaches centre of points. Put back the point just turned down from top. You 









































































APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


27 


then still have two points at top. Turn the napkin over to the right, and do the 
same with the other corner, which is now to the right hand, by tucking it under¬ 
neath the uppermost top corner; and the Cap is complete by setting it up like 
lig. 6, showing it finished. 


THE SAIL BOAT. 


In commencing this beautiful fold, you must open a napkin out square in front 
of you, and turn down top edge by the middle until it reaches the bottom edge 
near you, then take the left side A A in fig. i over to right side B B by dotted 
line X X; you then still have a square napkin as at commencement, only a re¬ 





duced size. The four points of the napkin are now at right-hand bottom corner, 
which points must be moved pointing directly towards you, as depicted in fig. 2: 
and in this diagram fold the napkin in half, taking the part marked A near you to 
top corner B by dotted line X X, when it will then resemble fig. 3. Proceed to 
turn the right-hand side by dotted line to centre X X, and repeat the same with 
the left hand; you then get fig. 4. Turn the whole over, and turn up the bottom 
points A A by line X X in fig. 5, and close it like a book by the centre, and you 
then get fig 6. If you look carefully at the top corners of this diagram you will 


« 



1 



see there are four points, indicated by the figures 1, 2, 3, 4. Turn the napkin on 
the edges on left side of fig. 6 marked A A, or hold the napkin by the same edges 
in the left hand, and commence to pull up the points, with No. 1, continuing with 
the other numbers until they are all standing up, as seen in fig. 7; those points 
give the appearance of sails. The yacht is then finished, and a little manipulation 
with the fingers and these points can be made to have a very pretty effect. 

























28 


APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


HOTEL NAPKIN FOLDING. 


AN ART WORTH MORE THAN FOREIGN LANGUAGES. 

The art of folding napkins is the most valuable accomplishment a waiter can 
acquire. There are some who contend that a waiter cannot be considered completely 
equipped for his profession without knowledge of several languages; still it must 
be owned this knowledge of various tongues is only useful in the city restaurants 
frequented by strangers to the country while a waiter may spend his life in good 
hotels where linguistic accomplishments are never called into play. Not so 
however, with the art of folding napkins. It is needed everywhere. There is 
nothing a waiter can do that is at once so interesting and so quickly proves him 
to be what he says he is, a man who understands his business. There is nothing 
he can do, if a stranger in a strange place that will so quickly give him introductions 
and acquaintance as to take a dozen sheets of stiff white paper and with them instead 
of napkins execute the finer patterns shown in this book and set them up for 
display. Thev attract attention at once and prove better than a letter of introduction 
for a young man seeking employment, and, fortunately, this useful art is far easier 
to learn than a foreign language. 

NAPKIN FOLDING TO MAKE MONEY. 

In our talk about waiters it is several times mentioned that there are what are 
called good tables to which the best or most deserving waiters are allotted. In 
the case of a Paris cafe it is shown that these best tables are only reached by slow 
promotions and delinquent or absentee waiters are invariably placed at the bottom 
or worst tables when they return to work and have to progress to the better places 
slowly. The meaning of good tables is that they are occupied by guests who pav 
their waiter well; the worst tables are those frequented by, let us say, “dead-heads,” 
or by some sort of customers of whom little or nothing is to be expected. It is 
precisely the same in our hotels and perhaps most markedly the case in pleasure 
resorts where families take up their summer or winter residence, occupy the same 
tables through the season and pay their waiter well. The headwaiter gives such 
tables as favors to the waiters he likes the best, and if he does not like a waiter he 
can keep him down to a table where he cannot make a dollar. The best way a 
waiter can help himself and make it so the headwaiter cannot afford to keep him 
down is to learn to be a boss napkin folder; if he is the best folder in the dining 
room he has a big advantage; he will be always needed, and needed at the best 
tables. Perhaps the reason of this is not plain to all, it is because the best guests 
expect all sorts of elegant little attentions and must not see the next table to them 
faring better than they. The waiter brings in various things upon folded napkins 
and if he could not produce ornamental effects that way he could not be in such 
a position. When, for example, he brings in the various cut cakes, macaroons 
and bonbons, he provides himself with, say, the “Chestnut Pocket” on page 8 or 
the “Heraldic Rose” and cross, page 14, not caring for the cross but opening up the 
pockets and filling them with the handsomest and most delicate confections he 
can obtain at the pantry or fruit room. The cheese and crackers he brings in 




APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD’S HANDBOOK. 


29 


another pattern; the table lie has already furnished with such a pattern at each 
plate as the “Flower Basket.” page 20, or what not, while his rival at the next table 
may be trying himself to do something still better These attentions are practiced 
by the waiters because it pays them to do so; the people at the good tables 
appreciate them, and moreover, they expect them and the head waiter is obliged to 
find waiters who can meet these expectations. Some of the handsomest folds are 
cabable of many changes; the “Heraldic Rose” when opened up is known as the 
“Boston Fold,” the “Flower Basket” with the points up is known as the “Saratago 
Fold,” but several of these might as well be called the “Tip Catcher,” the “Re¬ 
member Me,” the “Christmas Gift Collector,” etc. 

NAPKIN FOLDING FOR EFFECT. 

Napkins there must be at every dinner in every hotel of the least pretensions 
to elegance and it is a waste of a grand advantage not to make use of them for 
ornamental effects by employing the more imposing forms of folding them for 
setting on the table in readiness for the dinner. The use of the napkin to hold 
the dinner roll or piece of bread is a fashion of private table-setting and for caterers 
for private parties, but the piece of bread to each plate is not a hotel custom, it is 
not suitable. The flat folds of napkins instead are used as above named to bring 
pretty things to table in and to hold buttonhole boquets or the menu. Where the 
napkin and the art of folding shows up the grandest is in the hotel dining room 
with its fifty tables, its hundreds of plates, its long white rows of Pyramids, Ham¬ 
burg Drums, Tulips, Palm Leaves , Double Fans; Columns, Crowns, Mitres, any 
of them, the taller the better, all alike, of course, on each day but changed in form 
every day. That indeed is a sight that is pleasing alike to hotel man and guest 
and for good reason; it is a scene of real beauty and symmetry of forms and 
distances, pleasing by its whiteness and intimation of cleanlines and purity. It is 
something much too ornamental and satisfactory to be lost to a dining room for 
want of a knowledge how to fold napkins. 

THE WAY TO LEARN. 

Learn the folds by using good stiff white paper, the size is of but little conse¬ 
quence. The apparent difficulty of following the diagrams . * 

and directions vanishes after one trial, and when the folds kl 

have been carried out with a sheet of paper a stiff napkin Ng 

can be tried with a better chance of immediate success. p |i / | 

Some of the forms which require a hot iron for every fold lujpfj 

are hardly practicable for use in hotels except for special VO' 

party occasions, but there are plenty of easy forms that do 

not consume much time and some of them produce as good 

effects in ornamenting the dining room as the most difficult The Excursionist. 

shapes could do. Take this simplest of all for example, and look down a long 

dining room with this pattern set at every plate. The waiters on watch can roll 

up enough of these without calling on the off watch for help; but the finer 

patterns can be brought in on Sundays. 











CHICAGO. 


^PUBLISHED WEEKLY** 

H*nby J. Bohn. John J. Bohn. 

ZES:. J. BOHU dc BRO., 

Editors and Publishers. 


SJZHE HOTEL WORLD was established in 
1875. It is the oldest, largest and lead¬ 
ing weekly hotel journal. Publishes more 
original hotel news, editorial, and articles 
on hotel-keeping than all other hotel papers 
put together. Price: $2.50 per annum; with 
1-line advertisement, $5 00. Every Hotel 
Steward should be a subscriber. We also 
make and sell all kinds of copyrighted 
blank hotel books, and every description 
of cook books and other hotel books. 

N. B.—The plates on pages 1S2 and 1S3 
of this book show the plan of our Store 
Room Issue Book. 372 pages; price, $4. 


THE CATERER 

AND 

Hotel Proprietors’ Gazette. 

(PUBLISHED MONTHLY.) 

IS REPLETE WITH 

PRACTICAL, USEFUL AND VARIED INFORMATION 

FOR THE 

CONFECTIONER, BAKER AND PASTRYCOOK 


YEARLY SUBSCRIPTION, $1.25, POST FREE. 

PUBLISHED BY 

NEWTON & ESKELL, 20 HIGH HOLBORN, 

London, Eng. 


















( 


W’PTIODEIEailEA.ID’S 

HOTEL COOK BOOKS. 

No. I.—“THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK.” 

(FIFTH EDITION.) 

PRICE, POSTPAID, $2.00. 

EMBRACES THE FOLLOWING: 

PART FIRST— The Hotel Book of Fine Pastries, Ices, Pies, Patties, Cakes, Creams, Custards. 
Charlottes, Jellies and Sweet Entrements in Variety. 

PART SECOND— The Hotel Book of Puddings, Souffles and Meringues. A handy Collection of 
Valuable Recipes, original, selected and perfected for use in Hotels and Eating Houses 
of every Grade. 

PART THIRD— The Hotel Book of Breads and Cakes; French, Vienna, Parker House, and other 
Kolls, Muffins, Waffles, Tea Cakes; Stock Yeast and Ferment; Yeast raised Cakes, 
etc., etc., as made in the best hotels. 

PART FOURTH The Hotel Book of Salads and Cold Dishes, Salad Dressings, with and without 
oil;.Salads of all kinds, how to make and how to serve them; Boned Fowls, Galantines, 
Aspics, etc., etc. 

ISF’ The above parts are all comprised in the “American Pastry Cook,” together with 
a large amount of valuable miscellaneous culinary matter. 


No. 2.-“ HOTEL MEAT COOKING.” 

(FOURTH EDITION.) 

PRICE, POSTPAID, $2.00. 

EMBRACES THE FOLLOWING: 

PART FIRST—The Hotel, Fish and Oyster Book; Showing all the best methods of Cooking Oysters 
and Fish, for Restaurant and Hotel Service, together with the appropriate Sauces and 
V egetables. 

PART SECOND —How to Cut Meats, and Roast, Boil and Broil. The entire trade of the Hotel 
Meat Cutter, Roaster and Broiler, including “ Short Orders,” Omelets, etc. 

PART THIRD —The Hotel Books of Soups and Entrees, comprising specimens of French, English, 
and American Mentis , with translations and comments. Showing how to make up 
Hotel Bills of Fare, with all the different varieties of Soups and Consommes in proper 
rotation, and a new set of entrees or “ made dishes” for every day. 

PART FOURTH —Creole Cookery and Winter Resort Specialties. 

PART FIFTH —Cooks’ Scrap Book—A Collection of Culinary Stories, Poems, Stray Recipes, etc., etc. 

Index of French Terms, an explanation and translation of all the French terms used in 
the Book, alphabetically arranged. 

Jggr The above parts are all comprised in “ Hotel Meat Cooking,” together with a 

large and varied selection of matter pertaining to this part of the culinary art 


No. 3.—“ WHITEHEAD’S FAMILY COOK BOOK.” 

PRICE, POSTPAID, SI.50. 

A PROFESSIONAL COOK’S BOOK FOR HOUSEHOLD USE. 

Consisting of a series of Menus for every-day meals, and for private entertainments, 
with minute instructions for making every article named. 


The Recipes in all these books are properly headed, numbered and indexed, for 
rnandy reference. 

The author of this series of Hotel Cook Books is a professional Cook of Thirty 
Years’ experience, and every recipe has been tried and practically proved. 

The above books will be sent postpaid on receipt of price; “American Pastry Cook,” 
$2.00; “Hotel Meat Cooking,” $2.00; “Family Cook Book,” $1.50. All three will be 
•sent to one address on receipt of $5.00. Address all orders to 


OFFICE WITH 

JOHN ANDERSON & 00., 
Booksellers and Publisher*. 


Whitehead, 

Publisher of Hotel Cook Boohs, 

183 North Peoria Street,* 

. CHICAGO, ILL. 


♦ 












into. 4 . 


I 

The Famous California Book of COOKING, STEWARDING, CATERING,' 

and HOTEL KEEPING, called 

Cooking for Profit 

AND EIGHT WEEKS AT A SUMMER RESORT. 

Two Books in One. About 400 Pages. 

A Remarkable Volume which shows how Money is made by Boarding People and What it 

Costs to Live Well. 

SECOND EDITION. - - PRICE, $3.00. 

For Sale at the Offices of all the Hotel Newspapers and Summer and Winter Resort Journals, 
and by the Author and Publisher, 

Jedouji Whitehead, 

183—187 North Peoria St., CHICAGO, ILL, 


COITTEITTS. 

PART FIRST —Some Articles for the Show Case. The Lunch Counter. Restaurant Breakfasts, 
Lunches and Dinners. Hotel Breakfasts, Dinners and Suppers. Oyster and Fish House Dishes 
The Ice Cream Saloon. Fine Bakery Lunch. Quaker Dairy Lunch. Confectionery Goods 
Homemade Beers, etc. 

PART SECOND-Eight Weeks at a Summer Resort. A Diary. Our daily Bill of Fare ana 
what it costs. A Party Supper for Forty Cents per Plate. The Art of Charging Enough. A 
School Commencement Supper. Question of How Many Fires. Seven Fires for fifty persons vs 
one Fire for fifty. The Round of Beef for Steak. A Meat Block and Utensils. Bill of Groceries 
A Month's Supply for a Summer Boarding House, with Prices A Refrigerator Wanted. About 
keeping Provisions; Restaurant Patterns. A Good Hotel Refrigerator. Cost of Ice to supply it 
Shall we have a Bill of Fare? Reasons why: a Blank Form. Is Fish Cheaper than Meat: 
Trouble with the Coffee. How to Scrub the Kitchen. Trouble ’with Steam Chest and Vegetables 
Trouble with the Oatmeal. Building a House with Bread Crusts. Puddings without Eggs. A 
A Pastry and Store Room Necessary. A Board on a Barrel. First Bill of Fare. Trouble wifi 
Sour Meats. Trouble with the Ice Cream. The Landlord’s Birthday Supper. Showing hov. 
rich and fancy Cakes were made and iced and ornamented without using Eggs. The Landlady’: 
Birthday Supper. Trouble in Planning Dinners. Trouble with Captain Johnson. Trouble ir 
Serving Meals. Trouble with the Manager. Breakfasts and Suppers for Six Cents per Plate 
Hotel Dinners for Ten Cents per Plate. Hotel Dinners for Seventeen Cents per Plate. Suppei 
for Forty for Eight Cents per Plate. Breakfast for Forty for Nine Cents per Plate. An Expensivi 
Wedding Breakfast, for the Colonel and the Banker's Daughter. Four Thousand Meals. Review 
Groceries for 4,000. Meat, Fish and Poultry for 4,000. Flour, Sugar and Coffee for 4 , 00 c 
Butter and Eggs for 4,000. Potatoes, Fresh Vegetables and Fruits for 4,000. Canned Fruits an( 
Vegetables for 4,000. Milk and Cream for 4,000. Total Cost of Provisions for 4,000. How t< 
Save Twenty Dollars per Week. How Much we Eat. How Much we Drink. How Much t< 
Serve. Work and Wages. Laundry Work. Fuel, Light and Ice. Total Cost of Board. How Mucl 
Profit? How Many Cooks to How Many People? Boarding the Employees. Boarding Children 
Meals for Ten or Fiften Cents. Country Board at Five Dollars. If—a Bundle of Supposition? 
Keeping Clean Side Towels. How Many Fires—Again. A Proposal to Rent for next Season 
Conclusion. 

THE CONTENTS ALSO INCLUDE: 

One Hundred Different Bills of Fare, of Actual Meals, all with New Dishes; the Amount am 
the Cost per Head. 

Eleven Hundred Recipes. All live matter that every Cook needs—both by Weight and by Cu] 
and Spoon Measure. 

A Dictionary of Cookery, Comprised in the Explanations of Terms and General Information con 
tained in the Directions. 

Artistic Cookery. Instructions in Ornamentation, with Illustrations, and Notes on the Londoi 
Cookery Exhibition of 1885. 

it is thoroughly analytical, practical, readable, and the first book of the principles of the systematic hotel-keeping. 

PRICE $3.00. Address the Publisher, or any Hotel Paper. 



PREFACE TO WHITEHEAD’S NO. 4 COOKING FOR PROFIT. 


l his book is in many respects a continu¬ 
ation of the preceding volumes in the series, 
it fulfills the designs that were intended but 
not finished before, more particularly in the 
second part which deals with the cost of 
keeping up a table. It is not an argument 
either for or against high prices, but it 
embodies in print for the first time the 
methods of close-cutting management 
which a million of successful boarding¬ 
house and hotel-keepers are already prac¬ 
tising, in order that another million who 
are not successful may learn, if they will, 
wherein their competitors have the advant¬ 
age. At the time when the following in¬ 
troduction was written, which was about 
four years before the finish, I was just 
setting out, while indulging a rambling 
propensity, to find out why it was that my 
hotel books which were proving admirably 
adapted to the use of the ten hotels of a 
resort town were voted “too rich for the 
blood” of the four hundred boarding-houses; 
also, it was a question how so many of these 
houses running at low prices are enabled 
to make money as easily as the hotels 
which have a much larger income. At the 
same time some statistician published a 
statement that attracted attention showing 
that the vast majority of the people of this 
land have to live on an income of less than 
fifty cents a day. At the same time also an 
English author published a little book, 
which, however, I have not seen and did 
not need, with the title of “How to live on 
sixpence a day,” (twelve cents) which was 
presumptive evidence that it could be done. 
In quest of information on these points I 
went around considerably and found a good 
many “Mrs. Tingees” who were not keep¬ 
ing boarding-houses, and I honor them for 
the surpassing skill that makes the fifty 
cents a day do such wonders; but the right 
vein was not struck until the opportunity 
occurred to do both the buying and using 
of provisions from the very first meal in a 
Summer Boarding House. 

In reference to unfinished work I take 
the liberty here of saying that the bills of 
fare in this book with the quantities and 
proportions and relative cost from the con¬ 
tinuation and complete illustration of an 
article entitled “The Art of Catering” in 
Hotel Meat Cooking. Knowing how much 
to cook, how much to charge, ho\ir to pre¬ 


vent waste ana ali such questions raisfu 
there are carried out to an answer in these 
pages. In regard to the use of French name* 
for dishes it is necessary that a statement 
should be made. A great reform has taken 
place in the last ten years in the com 
position of hotel bills of fare, and the subject 
matter of these books having been widely 
diffused by publication in the hotel news¬ 
papers, has undoubtedly had much to do 
with the improvement that is now observ¬ 
able. My own design was, however, to ex¬ 
plain French terms, give their origin and 
proper spelling, and to that end I had a 
mass of anecdotes, historical mention and 
other such material collected to make the 
explanations interesting. As a preliminary, 
I began exposing the absurdities com¬ 
mitted by ignorant cooks and others trying 
to write French, and before this had pro¬ 
ceeded far the newspapers took up and 
advocated the idea that French terms should 
be abolished altogether. If that was to be 
the way the knot of misspelling and mis¬ 
naming dishes was to be cut, there was no 
use for my dictionary work and the mate¬ 
rial was thrown away; I followed the new 
path and it proves a plain and sensible one.. 
At the same time there is an aspect of the 
subject which cooks seeking situations, 
perceive and editors of newspapers may 
never think of, and that is that there are 
many employers whom the reform has not 
reafched who will pay a hundred dollars for 
a cook who can give his dishes imposing; 
foreign names more willingly than fifty 
dollars to a better cook who can only write 
United States. First class hotels which 
have all the good things that come to 
market avoid French terms. They that 
have turkey and lamb, chicken, peas and 
asparagus, oysters and turtle and cream, 
want them shown up in the plainest read¬ 
ing; to cover them up with French names 
would be injudicious; but if we have but 
the same beef and mutton every day, the 
aid that a few ornamental terms can give 
is not to be despised. First of all it is 
requisite that those who use such terms 
should know what they are intended it, in¬ 
dicate and how they should be spelled and 
then they can be taken or left according 
to the intelligent judgment of those co«* 
cerned I. W 




WHO CAN BEAT THIS? 



» 

This exquisitely beautiful style ol ornamental work in white icing is taught 
in COOKING FOR PROFIT—in the Artistic Cookery department of that book, 
and in no other book in the world. It is an original style; the whitest, most grace¬ 
ful, most effective for a banquet table; capable of endless changes of design, and 
not restricted as to size. This magnificent specimen, four feet in height, is the 
trophy of a first-class workman. Read his letter on the following page. 
















Mr. Collmar's Letter Accompanying Photograph of Sugar Work: 

PARKER HOUSE, New Bedford, Mass., March, 1889. 

Mr. Jessup Whitehead. 

Dear Sir: —Inclosed I send you $2 for a copy of your “ Hotel Meat Cooking” 
for another friend of mine. Also a photograph of a center piece of sugar icing 
.vork which I did in your style; what do you think of the design? I used it at the 
Board of Trade banquet here, and w hen it was filled up with small cakes and sugar 
fruits and decorated w ith smilax, it w^as much admired. The lower basket was 15 
inches in diameter. The entire piece w r as 3 feet 10 inches high. I made the fruF 
of gum paste shaped in individual ice cream moulds. 

Yours Respectfully, 

CHRIS. F. COLLMAR, 

New Bedford, Mass. 

P. S.—I used 25 lbs. of sugar in the center piece. 


“COOKING FOR PROFIT” also contains equally plain instructions for 
wax and mutton fat decorations for meat dishes. It would be worth more than its 
price if only for these special instructions; but besides that, it is the most useful, 
plain and practical book for the “all-round” cook who works up to a bill of fare 
that ever w r as printed. It is different from the others in containing both meat and 
pastry work in the one book, and plenty of bill-of-fare names. Send for “ CGOK - 
ING FOR PROFIT '.” Price , $3.00. The second edition has recently been printed,, 
the first having been sold out. 


The Hotel World, of Chicago, has been publishing THE STEWARD’S 
HANDBOOK—the first part of it only and not the Dictionary—serially every 
w T eek for more than forty weeks, and is to be credited w r ith many of the quoted ar¬ 
ticles which have been clipped at various times from its varied pages and repro¬ 
duced in the book where they will be permanently useful. The Hotel World, pub¬ 
lished by Messrs. Bohn & Bro., is a good paper to subscribe for. 


J. W. 




























































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-j. 


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